Yes! Had the ECLE there for about a month until it ran into more board issues. It's currently in the shop waiting for a board from JJP. Once we get her in working order she's going to be a game for the home.

Thought I would post this here in case anyone is interested. Both in new condition. PM me if interested. Flex on price.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/51900

Personal preference, but I like the green better than the red. Also prefer the topper on the Emerald City over the one on the RR. I put all the mods from the RR in my ECLE, so I'm good to go!

I agree I really like the Emerald City but I suck at fixing pinball and it will go in a room where 5 pinballs on wall 5 pinball on opposite wall small isle down the middle. Point being I can't take the glass off to work on machine once it goes into room with out a major pain in the ass. I am worried of ECWOZ like WhysGuys situation were he have a no ECWOZ due to light board issues . I here good things about ECWOZ were no light board issues and I here bad issues with light board issues. I do not really want to ship pinball to Colorado that being a new Ruby Red 2.0 and $ 10.000.00 . I would rather try to find a ECWOZ here HUO in my state for $7-8 grand . Any advise ? From ECWOZ owners as to there experience . The RR does look sweet . But The Emerald is my dream machine . Photo East wall and West wall of pinball room . Not to show my pinball's but as example of why it is hard to get the glass off to work on pinball's . Thank you for any input.

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Pulling the glass is part of the operation pinball machines.
If anything just to replace a broken rubber or as simple as retrieving a hung ball.

In my case, I pull the glass often enough just to clean the inside of the glass or to regularly apply new wax.
So pulling the glass is imperative to the proper operation of the games.

Agreed. I'm not sure how you can avoid taking the glass off long term. It seems like I'm taking the glass off of at least one of my 4 pins once a week or more. Always something that needs at least a little adjustment.

Agreed .

Agreed.I have a large jack that I put under Pinball just in front of the bottom speaker I can raise the height of the front of machine not optimal but innovative & functional.I can remove the glass at any time. It is just a pain. That is not the focus of my quarry however . Since (Both) of you responded and have WOZ spread your knowledge and help me make an informed decision to my specific question. I want to know what the opinion of WOZ owners who do not have a 2.0 light boards what there maintenance reliability has been like . I here good things about ECWOZ/ RR were no light board issues and I here bad issues with light board issues. Thanks for feedback to this specific question .

I have the latest updated 1.x boards in my WOZECLE. I have never had any issues with any of the large feature light boards (knock on wood), but have had to replace a few small GI (single light) boards. The other day I noticed another GI board starting to flicker... so will be needing to order another sooner than later. Fortunately the GI ones are relatively inexpensive (still a hell of a lot more than a standard LED), but it's a tolderable part of maintenance.

I've had to replace a lot of the GI light boards all under warranty in my RR. I believe I had mostly unbuffered 1.x boards. It was during the winter months, and from what I've heard, dry air and static can be an issue for the non-buffered boards. I'm kind of worried about the change in season coming up. I hope I don't go through another round, but we'll see. I've also had to replace WOZ6 which is one of the main boards. JJP has been great, but I can see myself getting frustrated if this is a recurring issue every year. I do think it is a bit of a crap shoot. Some people have very little issues, some people have a lot. You should take that into consideration when deciding what version of WOZ you want to get.

Someone sent me a PM said he had owned an early Woz sold it and bought a new 2.0 RR because

1) he really loves Woz
2) he had lots of problems with the older version

I don't know how reliable the 2.0 is unless it's well known like maybe is on TH without any issues?

My result is I'm buying a 2.0 RR but hard to find used at the moment.

Realistically 2.0 should cost more than older versions (same condition) but from what I see anyone selling an older RR or ECLE doesn't see that.

I think the majority of games have little or no problems in home use.
I have never had a GI board failure in 4 years of continuous play. The electronics seem robust enough for me.
The only annoying failures I have had are in the castle doors. Its a weakly engineered system. They are not too bad to fix but its the only system that wears out, in my mind, prematurely.

Everything else has been rock solid and reliable.
Theres is a lot going on in WOZ an TH.

Reliable power with abundant current at your receptacles is important for these pinball machines to perform optimally.

Same here, no problems in the three years i owned mine. Only right castle door fixed with blue locktite.

I have an original RR and I bought it new. I have had issues with the castle doors as described above, a power board failure, broken diode on a monkey target (twice), 3 or 4 of the stand alone lcd boards had to be replaced and I had a data cable that just needed a little strain relief. Definitely no reason to not own the original machines. All of my machines regardless of manufacturer, new or used have needed servicing for this light or that switch/transistor and JJP is no exception. However, when it comes to support JJP is head and shoulders above the other companies I have dealt with. Not to mention LTG is an amazing and tireless resource.

At the end of the day a normal amount of maintenance is a small price to pay for owning the greatest pinball machine ever.

I agree, just seems like *some* owners have more issues than others. It's not as if light boards is an unheard of with Woz. I agree that some issue are to be expected but I have had several Stern pins that have had zero issues over many years of ownership, but I'll agree that those Stern pins probably have half the number of parts/complexity as a Woz.

Knowing what I know now I would buy the newer RR with the updated lighting system. But I am not gonna sell my old one to get a new one. Old one is just fine.

Had to replace almost all my boards in the first year and 6 more in the second not under warranty. never had to replace a big one luckily. I live in texas somewhat near the coast and its humid and hot even in the winter. I think my issue was since it was on route I did more maintenance and cleaning (plus it was on carpet which probably didn't help when I did maintenance). The tech told me to go with wizards mist and shine, and now anytime I touch the game I put a static bracelet on especially if I'm on carpet. haven't had an issue with those damn light boards in almost a year ( assuming part of that reason is because it's been at home with me for the last six months. the game is on tile with rubber stoppers.)

I'm probably wrong but I thought all the 2.0 system did was let the rest of the game lights remain uninterrupted if one failed. I would assume you would still have to replace the same amount of messed up boards unless they went with more robust electronics. (less prone to static)

posted another topic about the 2.0 system and LTG said if they did release a kit it would cost around 2k. Those were estimated costs, but I'm hoping if someone actually wanted to update their problematic WOZ then maybe they would subsidize the amount. Since in my opinion they should of addressed the issue way earlier then they did. The RR's with the 2.0 system must of been really late in the game mine is #eight hundred and sixty something. sucked should of done my homework. Still happy I purchased the game though.

Been playing WOZ a lot more lately, There are a few items I'm still not 100% on.
Why does the ball stop near the change lanes sometimes and not others. ( or how do you get it to stop back there?)

any tips on the ball save post? seems like 1/4 of the time I misjudge, it hits the post wrong and goes down the middle anyway.
Not used to playing games with posts I guess.

To collect the horses I know you have to shoot under the right flipper, but it's a near impossible shot in single ball play. backhanding Is easier but still leads to a drain more often then not trying to get the ball in the right position. just curious what other WOZ people do.

in weak flippers mode is it supposed to be possible to hit the munchkin ramp? should I increase flipper strength in the setting?

lastly is the wizard mode endless?

and in fireball mode the shots that are blinking red and blue are good/bad shots right?

thanks

The ball stops at the change lanes to signify you made an orbit hurry up. Otherwise, it goes through.

The center post needs to be hit exactly dead center. Otherwise, drain city.

The collect horse shot is the most difficult shot in the game. Still, sometimes I get lucky.

You can hit the ramp with weak flippers but it takes a dead on shot.

Not sure what you mean about wizard mode.

For fireball frenzy, blue shots good, yellow bad. Red and blue sounds like you stacked a Munchkin mode with it.

I'm probably wrong but I thought all the 2.0 system did was let the rest of the game lights remain uninterrupted if one failed. I would assume you would still have to replace the same amount of messed up boards unless they went with more robust electronics. (less prone to static)

This is indeed wrong; 2.0 is completely re-engineered from the ground up: It is loosely modeled after Hobbit but in practice it sets up and works most like the system that is in DI. It involves many cat 5 cables and a BAG board that runs the lighting system from underneath the playfield.

I have that black custom cover for the wizard that is sold here as a mod (covers the frame and makes if look complete). PM me if you want to buy. $25 shipped. Thanks.

maybe not a wizard mode, but what ever the end of the rainbow is when you get all collect all the diamonds.

I usually try not to stack anything with fireball but... maybe I did. Three separate times now I was looking for a blue shot and not seeing any except the red/blue shot, so I shot it. wasn't sure if it gave a jackpot as well, since the animation screen went to something else the last two times I hit that shot. I know scarecrow was closer to getting burned up though.

thank you for clarifying.

good to know, hope they do come out with the 2.0 kit then. probably take forever to install, but it would probably be worth it.

Not sure this was ever answered and would love to know as well. Same for The Hobbit.

I've seen green LED flipper buttons and they look awesome, but not sure where to get them. Thanks.

http://www.britemods.com/britebuttons-.html

Other places too.

LTG : )

Love BriteMods and have them on about a dozen machines but website does not say configured for JJP. Williams/Bally, Stern only.

Will they work on JJP?

Thanks.

Buy the ones that say WB and they will work on any JJP. I have red for on my RR

Pinballs are not magnetized according to the paper clip test but I did notice that my capture Dorothy magnet sits below the PF while the munchkin land magnet sits flush. Is this normal? I assume I still have a problem with the magnet either way.

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That magnet is way too low. You need to raise it. It also looks like there is some wear at the edge from not being flush with the playfield. Perhaps a cliffy will help prevent further wear.

Agreed, the magnet is definitely too low. The ball would just sit in that hole from gravity. The magnet core needs to be adjusted to be level with the playfield.

Thanks you guys. Large nut was loose under PF. I think you're right that ball was just sitting in lip instead of dropping.

Looking back over my posts in this thread, I was thinking about getting a RR Woz one year ago but didn't because my STLE didn't sell and or I decided to keep my STLE at that time.

Two months ago I had a deal in place for a RR Woz but was not consummated by the second party after a month I gave up on that deal.

I started looking for a new or new-used RR at the same time I was over STLE and put it back up for sale and got a very strong offer I couldn't refuse and found a new-used RR and it's being shipped now.

Got me to think about Woz in strong terms, a year GB was just out, since then AFMr, AS, BM66, SW and DI were released but nothing has made me decide against Woz.

Hopefully this time next week I'll be playing me own Woz.

Here is a pre shipping picture, seller was able to re-box it.

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My white rubber by the multiplier snapped this morning. New one on the way. Can it play in the meantime? Bad idea?

Super Glue the ends together. Rubber bands. Stock spares.

LTG : )

Superglue good temp fix

Don't get any glue on the pf that shiz has acid in it

Thanks!
Spares on the way as well... only had it a couple weeks... thought I'd be good for couple months or so.

Wow, I've never heard of that tip before.

Also reminds me that I should keep spares, heh.

Congrats on getting Woz rr

It was my first choice of recent titles to pick from.The theme and integration is so well done.

I just bought a RR yesterday. This may have already been discussed but I could not find a tread on it. To see the picture on my crystal ball I have to lean over to the right and also lean a little forward. Is there anyway to move/adjust the small monitor so I can more easily see the video in the crystal ball from my normal playing angle/stance?

Not that I am aware of, however, its more of a novelty item (not something you will really be looking at for direction or info while playing) so I wouldnt worry about it.

looks cool though!

I played no more than 20 games new out of the box and mine snapped. Put a TAF slingshot rubber there to replace it.Pretty close fit to the Woz rubber.

Turn the upper sling down in coil settings. 2 works fine or 3 gives you good action without over wearing the rubber.

I'm having an issue with the led for the first "O" in Toto. When I power on the machine the LED illuminates green at around 40% power. Yes, it is happening before the game is fully booted, which I find really odd. It is constantly lit green, but all of the colors of the LED function properly during a game or in test mode. No issues with any other LED's in the game. Any idea what is causing this? I'm hoping someone can help, and the fact that it is lit right from boot up will make it easier to resolve the issue. Thank you for reading.

I need help understanding a call out. It is a male voice (maybe the mayor) yelling what sounds to me like "Shoot that steer with speed", but I do not think that is what he is saying. Any ideas what he is saying?

Shoot that sphere (ball) with speed is one of the hurry-up call-outs.

Shoot that sphere with speed. The crystal ball

Maybe I'm wrong...

Finally found something to put on the right side of my Apron. Genuine legal tender WOZ $2 bill. What do you guys think? 70th anniversary instead of 75th but still cool I think.

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