This is totally my reasoning why I don't have a Woz as I've read and heard that people would like the new 2.0 system. I've passed on many pre-owned Woz and thinking about the NIB yet the price is much higher.

Also, I was concerned about the GI on WOZ. I play in dark or semi dark and even if I did leave the lights on for WoZ, my room is not well lit some people say it needs extra GI for this environment bit some people say the extra GI doesn't look good. I often wonder after all this time why JJP has not increased the GI capacity on the newer games and could even be adjustable so if people like less or more then can set it up as they like it.

I'm not sure the newer games at $9-$9.5k are worth it. If you can get a RR at around $8 or lower you'll be ahead of the game. If your boards start going out, which is unlikely by now, it will cost you around $800 to replace all of them.

As for lighting, we have a forest light mod, backboard and trough lighting that make a big difference. It's still a dark game, but our mods do help with visibility and being able to see detail.

https://lermods.com/t/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods

I really think the GI update does a great job and is not overkill. I'm also someone who plays with little to no light and I felt like I was missing half the game b/c it's so dark.

See below. I think it looks great and matches well. I also included my WCS (recently LED'd) for comparison). I do love games that pop. You can also unplug the main plug behind the coin door and go back to stock whenever you want....

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what is the GI update? Is this just with a newer pin or has it been updated with software?

Sorry should have been clearer. I have the GI pinbulb kit installed. That's what I was referring to when I said I updated the GI.

Pinstadium has a really cool looking kit. I believe they said one of the inspirations was WOZ. You can adjust the level of light as well. I haven't bought one, but was thinking about it.

In short, there are plenty of solutions to the GI issue. Don't let that hold you back from getting one of the greatest pins ever made.

question - can you get the monkey lock by shooting left OR right or is it just left?

Left or right

I always find the left orbit shot to be incredibly tight. I'm always amazed when I miraculously seem to nail it. More often than not, I hit a pop and the ball bounces around.

Where did you get this? My 2017 RR is fine but my 2015 standard could use it.

If you want everything to look purple, then get it. If you want to enjoy all the colors on the playfield, then you can add your own led strip under the apron/between the flippers and a spot light or two with cool or warm white leds

https://www.pinballbulbs.com/kits/wizard-of-oz

I did this on my second one. Although it helps it's definitely not the solution if you want the entire playfield brighter.

Btw the spotlight LEDs can be changed to white if you want. I like the color it provides though.

I ordered the PinStadium kit for mine with GI and Flasher integration, just waiting patiently for it to ship then I'll be sure to post some before and after pics / videos.

So I tried shooting the right orbit when the light is blinking yellow/red and it just goes around and collects yellow brick road but no magnet/monkey. If I shoot left, magnet/monkey works. Is there a setting that might have been changed to only allow left b/c I know it's working fine.

Right orbit: game needs to see the orbit entrance opto under the house playfield and then the right orbit made microswitch in order to activate the magnet and send the monkey down. Make sure the right orbit made rollover works with fast and slow rolled balls in switch test and or magnet sense test.

So I did test and the right orbit switch registers fine. The opto by the house (right next to the magnet) also triggers well but on screen it's listed as "not used" #14. It's brown too. Is that normal?

Nope it's plugged into the wrong spot on the opto control board underneath near the house. It should read as switch 16 in the white violet row 8. Go under and move the plug from the green socket to the violet. The green one stays empty on purpose.

delt31 Who is putting up high scores on your WOZ using BJB as initials?? Those are my initials. Theft! Copyright infringement!! Breach of treaty!!! Expect to hear from my lawyer.

Just kidding. Whichever BJB is playing your machine is plainly a wonderful person with excellent taste in initials.

Great advice. It works now. Didn't realize that until now. Got to love this website. So many knowledgeable people

Yes, a lot of awesome individuals in this forum, one of the best I've ever been involved with, and I've been around!

I aspire to knowledgeable...

Business write off. Customers pump quarters into it. Brand new comes with warranty. It looks cool in my pizza place. I get to play pinball at work. Totally worth it

I've had my RR for a couple months now but just recently started having this issue. Capture Dorothy is not lit yet however magnet captures ball when I hit right orbit and monkey does not drop down to capture it obviously. Ball just stays stuck on magnet.

If it is a slow shot around the orbit it could be magnetized balls. Are you using the factory balls?

Yes factory balls. What is best way to test to find out if this is the issue? Just take off glass and check balls over magnet area? And if so what are the best balls to get for WOZ with all the magnets? Thanks

I have been out of the loop on WOZ . I have been away from Pinside for a year. I have wanted a WOZEC or WOZRR . But the whole light board issue has kept me away from this title . I did some reading on this post but to many to really get caught up. What is WOZ 2.O ? JJP models is 2.o available . Thanks for your help.

Parallel boards run through a lighting hub instead of serial boards so one bad board doesn't take out everything else downstream. WOZ games built since December-ish last year have it.

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I believe the first time you hit the right orbit the ball is captured by the magnet and then drops to the O Z lanes after a brief hold. No Monkey Action if Capture Dorothy arrow isn't lit. After the first orbit you should be able to shoot the orbit without being stopped by the magnet. I am sure there are some rules that govern this functionality but I am not sure what they are. This is just an observation of how my machine works. Anyone know enough to comment on this?

Also I have noticed that since the latest update the Munchkin Magnet seems to stop the ball on occasion without any perceived reason, then lets it go after a brief period of time. Is this intentional? Is my game busted?

Munchkin magnet grabs the ball to attempt a slow feed to the upper right flipper when the witch is lit for something ala Magna Save on Dirty Harry. The top magnet grabs the ball whenever an orbit hurryup is scored, so if one is running down and you shoot the orbit (regardless of the capture Dorothy situation), the magnet will grab the ball briefly to allow the game to play the fanfare of collecting the hurryup, then drop it to the lanes.

This is the witch hurry-up helper. If your in a witch hurry-up it will grab and let the ball drop onto the upper right flipper so you can get the hurry-up. A strong nod to TZ and the camera helper.

It's a new feature in 3.5, I believe you can disable it if you don't like it.

Camera helper is a better analogy with Pat on the team.

Now that I know what it is there for I love it! Thanks!

My capture Dorothy magnet does not release the ball unfortunately. I end up having to tilt the game to get the ball off the magnet. Turning off the game doesn't release the ball even. So I guess it may be a magnetized ball? What are the best balls for such a magnetized game as WOZ? Ive read through the where to buy balls thread in the past and there were many options but wondered what WOZ owners were using with good results. Or will all balls eventually magnetize in this game? Hopefully not every 2 months

Place a piece of electrical tape on the magnet if it will not release

Just don't buy any that are "super shiny" or "chrome finished", etc. Basic pinballs from PBR have held up very well in mine.

Pabst Blue Ribbon?

Speaking of shiny pinballs, mine get scratched and scuffed in WOZ about 4x as fast as any other game I have on route. Any idea what's going on here? I can't find a definite metal on metal culprit, by the shooter ramp, apron hooks, pops, and magnets are the main exposed areas I've adjusted so far. Magnets specifically have me suspicious...

Make sure you have a rubber ring on the post next to the witch. I have seen several people missing that rubber.

Magnets are soft and don't really scratch the ball too badly. I'd look for a post without a rubber, exposed ball guide edge, lower your pop bumper strength, etc.

I do not have the game. But I have delt with a magnet not releasing the ball on X-Men LE it was the coil I think I had to replace it burn't up. It sounds like you may have a bigger issue than just magnetized pinballs . Take pinball out of machine . Place a large paper clip on pinball it will stick if magnetized. But I still think there is a larger issue in play. Ask JJP cusomer support . Marco has the best pinball's for games with magnet's . http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5

RR showed up today, game plays but screen is black. What am I looking for?

either the power wire is loose or the video cable on the monitor, check both of those. Not many wires in the head, only 5 I believe. The other three are 1 -power for topper, and 2- stereo cables for speakers.

Thanks. I wasn't there for the unboxing. I'm heading to that store now. I'll check it out.

What power level do you guys keep your state balloon bumper at? Mine seemed a little strong as one bump into it can cause a frenzy of hits. Anyone else lower the strength?

Also sometimes the auto plunger shoots the ball a little to the left and it cuts the speed down as it grazes a little. Anyone experience that?

Definitely lower the state fair balloon bumper a few notches.

Always a good day when you get a new pin!

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Lovely!

Second time?

Was curious if you got this one new?

I'm in process of buying a month-old new out of the box RR.