(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10,055 posts
  • 541 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by harryhoudini
  • Topic is favorited by 241 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,367 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

ADAF00D1-AA88-4CBA-B5F5-635F4E407046 (resized).jpeg
Ball1 (resized).jpg
Screen (resized).jpg
Ball2 (resized).jpg
Screen2 (resized).jpg
52707863-FA40-4711-B0D6-A86FC912615C (resized).png
9E8A673B-D4AB-4D24-8ED8-FC55FCA034A0 (resized).jpeg
1DBF8770-DEB3-41A6-8DCD-B36943B16F21 (resized).jpeg
049469D1-DFE5-43B1-B5C7-41D3E0C289E8 (resized).jpeg
20200304_084910 (resized).jpg
C8C6E50A-7579-481C-A043-0E525F8E6A9F (resized).jpeg
Wizard of Oz Escape 094 (resized).jpg
Wizard of Oz Escape 081 (resized).jpg
Wizard of Oz Escape 064(1) (resized).jpg
Wizard of Oz Escape 052(1) (resized).jpg
Wizard of Oz Escape 046(1) (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 10055 posts in this topic. You are on page 81 of 202.
#4001 2 years ago

Hey all.

I am pondering to buy a new Woz. I believe will be new (if I can swing it) but I am somewhat concerned with if there are some issues with Woz specifically does it break down more than a typical game.

I am not trying to start any trouble, I just was curious, also if I was buying new would that be better such as light board issues which I've hears so much about.

Also what the best way to add GI lighting, is there a kit that I can buy?

I'm off to play my friends RR pin hopefully I will decide to get WoZ (Other pin I'm considering is AFMr)

thanks

#4002 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Hey all.
I am pondering to buy a new Woz. I believe will be new (if I can swing it) but I am somewhat concerned with if there are some issues with Woz specifically does it break down more than a typical game.
I am not trying to start any trouble, I just was curious, also if I was buying new would that be better such as light board issues which I've hears so much about.
Also what the best way to add GI lighting, is there a kit that I can buy?
I'm off to play my friends RR pin hopefully I will decide to get WoZ (Other pin I'm considering is AFMr)
thanks

If you buy new, make sure you get the new 2.0 light boards. I think you'll be fine either way, but I've had some issues with the old light boards, as have a number of people. JJP has been great though about covering things under warranty.

Other than that, just the typical issues. WOZ is so big and heavy that I think things get shaken loose more in transit. I had a number of loose screws and switches needing adjustment when I first got it. Nothing too bad. Make sure you get the munchkinland cliffy protector. Otherwise, at some point, that upper playfield will get chipped.

As for GI lighting, the best pictures I've seen are those new Pinstadium light kits. I haven't seen one in person yet, but they look perfect for the WOZ. There are other kits available as well. Me, I just play it with the lights on.

#4003 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Hey all.
I am pondering to buy a new Woz. I believe will be new (if I can swing it) but I am somewhat concerned with if there are some issues with Woz specifically does it break down more than a typical game.
I am not trying to start any trouble, I just was curious, also if I was buying new would that be better such as light board issues which I've hears so much about.
Also what the best way to add GI lighting, is there a kit that I can buy?
I'm off to play my friends RR pin hopefully I will decide to get WoZ (Other pin I'm considering is AFMr)
thanks

I own and have routed WOZ/Stern/Williams. Stuff breaks on all of them. The thing with the JJP games though is they are more complicated, more switches, lights, solenoids, etc and as a result there is more to break or as is more common need adjustment.

I have had very few things break on my WOZ but it has needed a fair bit of adjustment, particularly when I had it routed, that can take a bit of work if you have to dig around and get at something. Much easier working on a stern as there is just less there so they are easy to get at.

Nothing major though and minimal light problems on mine with an early build 7.5. TBH Sterns are probably easier to look after as there is less to look after unless you get weird node board issues but JJP are solid and if you are reasonably competent repair wise you will be fine.

#4004 2 years ago

WOZ is a great game! It has been very reliable for me. Yeah you may have some adjustments to make upon areival but nothing terrible.

My WOZ has the last generation boards (before the latest 2.0 boards) and it's been perfectly fine. I did have a couple of the small GI boards go wonky on me after about 9 months and JJP sent new ones out right away. It was about a 5 minute fix.

Mechanically the game is a tank. Everything is solid and fits well. A few people have reported overly tight clearances around their pop bumpers which they had to adjust but that was not my experience. Code wise it's beyond complete.

I personally wouldn't add more GI to the game as this game has a spectacular light show I wouldn't want to drown out.

If you do order a new one be sure to get yourself on the list for the red smoke witch... she's well worth it!

#4005 2 years ago

My WOZ has a 12/15 build date. It has the 7.5V or 7.5V buffered light boards. I'm not sure. I bought my WOZ with less than 100 plays and it had a bad light board when I got it (I knew this going into it). JJP sent me a replacement which also failed a few plays after installing it. They sent me a second replacement and the machine has been problem free for 1 year now, 1148 plays, and 31 days run time. Take that to mean what you will but I've been happy with the machine's reliability and JJP support.

(One thing that doesn't get brought up enough when the light board issues are discussed is possible cable issues. They seem to carry ground via the shield rather than a wire. They solder a small wire to the shield to make the connection right before the connector. I found that this wire was broken on my cable going into the failed board. I suspect this is why the first board they sent me failed and perhaps why the original board failed as well. I fixed this before installing the second board they sent me and I've had no issues).

#4006 2 years ago

Hi Guys

What non-JJP balls are you using in your WOZ? I replaced my original JJP supplied set for Marco Standard balls, the ones in the five pack. They say they are resistant to magnetism but in my game they get magnetized really quickly. Usually the problem is two balls getting hungup under the munchkin playfield when you get the munchkin mode/twister awarded during a multiball. The ball falls down to the magnet, magnet holds it for a bit and at the same time another ball comes down the orbit. Then the two balls get stuck on the orbit guide/magnet. I put in two sets of Marco balls, both did the same thing. Put the JJP balls back in and no more problem.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

#4007 2 years ago

Yeah the super shiny ones from Marco are very pretty but not appropriate for use in games with magnets. It gets worse too... eventually they start sticking to each other in your ball trough and up in the munchkin huts causing issues with ball recognition.

I'm currently using a set of standard balls I got from them at a recent show. They look fine and no more magnetic balls. Nice thing about getting them from Marco's booth at a show is you can pick them out yourself. I've never seen one with a chip or anything but just paranoid I guess. They coat them with a little oil to keep from rusting while in storage so make sure to clean them up before installing.

#4008 2 years ago

Haven't had that issue probably due to having a play field protector, so there is no direct contact.

#4009 2 years ago

Fixed!

Well, "fixed"!

Fired up the game a few days & the crystal ball was just fine.
Upon further research, a few others have seen this issue & it often resolves with a reboot.
When I'd rebooted the other day & seen only darkness in the crystal ball, I don't think I waited long enough--the ball doesn't seem to show any images right away upon power up & attract mode.

Yay.

Thanks,
-Jason

Quoted from jasonbar:

Howdy-
My crystal ball on my ECLE pooped out.
Played a game. During boot, noticed colorful backwards/upside-down text scrolling. After game started, colorful backwards/upside-down text stayed put.
I didn't pay much mind to the text, but I think I recall seeing "SDa" or "SDu" in there(?)
Power cycle.
Now crystal ball dark.
Wiggled connector to back of crystal ball screen. Nothing.
Popped the card out & popped it back in.
Power cycle..
Still dark.
Started tracing cable to give the other end of it a wiggle. It hides in the umbilical with a million other wires.
Where does it come out on the other end?
What's the fix for this issue?
Thank you very much,
-Jason

#4010 2 years ago

pending new owner RR with Rad Cals

#4011 2 years ago

Regarding Woz, I'm assuming JJP will continue to make as many as needed for a while, but has anyone heard about RR begin to sell out? Doesn't matter to me, but always nice to know if you have a limited edition that actually sells out rather than for example TFLE or WWE LE that might never be sold near the limited number.

#4012 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Regarding Woz, I'm assuming JJP will continue to make as many as needed for a while, but has anyone heard about RR begin to sell out? Doesn't matter to me, but always nice to know if you have a limited edition that actually sells out rather than for example TFLE or WWE LE that might never be sold near the limited number.

RR isn't a limited edition, I don't believe. I thought the only true limited edition was the original ECLE. Think of RR as a Premium with different colors and bling. I imagine they will make as many of them as they can sell, and I think sales are still going strong.

#4013 2 years ago

According to the web site

IMG_3245 (resized).PNG

#4014 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

According to the web site

Well . . . maybe. I wonder if that "limited to 1500" thing has been thrown out the window. It is the most popular model. I could be wrong though.

#4015 2 years ago

1500 is a large number.

#4016 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

pending new owner RR with Rad Cals

Hi Rai - got your cliffy set ordered or on hand i hope.... at a minimum the upper munchkin playfield really needs to be protected.

#4017 2 years ago

Could anyone measure the hight of RR with the topper installed?

I have an area of my game room that has low ceiling, can't fit a topper that's over 10-12 inches

#4018 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Could anyone measure the hight of RR with the topper installed?
I have an area of my game room that has low ceiling, can't fit a topper that's over 10-12 inches

Mine is sitting at roughly 87 1/2" from the floor but keep in mind that the overall height will depend on how steep you have the game setup (how high the rear levelers are cranked up) - my game is currently set about 7 degrees tilt.

#4019 2 years ago

Nature of the beast my topper won't fit.
Ceiling to low. Love the game.

#4020 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Mine is sitting at roughly 87 1/2" from the floor but keep in mind that the overall height will depend on how steep you have the game setup (how high the rear levelers are cranked up) - my game is currently set about 7 degrees tilt.

Was afraid of that need to move a few pins around, think I have just 86" on my main wall.

#4021 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Was afraid of that need to move a few pins around, think I have just 86" on my main wall.

This is what I did with too low ceilings:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/60#post-3515712

#4022 2 years ago

Do Woz audits reset when you change the code?

#4023 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Do Woz audits reset when you change the code?

No, at least not the incremental update.

#4024 2 years ago

I'm debating can get:

-HUO RR (no Rad Cal) is 2 years old but low audit plays (like less than 100 games)

-Brand new RR in the box with Rad Cal built this year

------

whats the price difference, I mean how much more is the NIB with Rad Cal worth?

#4025 2 years ago

If $500+ cheaper I'd go used, no question. Give it a good inspection though.

#4026 2 years ago
Quoted from oohlou:

No, at least not the incremental update.

While incremental are safe for your audits, full updates will reset audits if not backed up and restored.

#4027 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I'm debating can get:
-HUO RR (no Rad Cal) is 2 years old but low audit plays (like less than 100 games)
-Brand new RR in the box with Rad Cal built this year
------
whats the price difference, I mean how much more is the NIB with Rad Cal worth?

What it is worth all depends. Rad Cals look great but I'm not sure if they add to resale value. Personally, I think getting the new light boards plus 1 year warranty is worth quite a bit. Whether it is worth $500 or $1,000 all depends upon if anything fails in your pin. I've probably had at least a few hundred dollars worth of warranty work. I'm not sure if I had $500 worth, but it could happen.

#4028 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I'm debating can get:
-HUO RR (no Rad Cal) is 2 years old but low audit plays (like less than 100 games)
-Brand new RR in the box with Rad Cal built this year
------
whats the price difference, I mean how much more is the NIB with Rad Cal worth?

I'd beware relying on the audits, you'd have to see the game in person and give it a good inspection. It will be easy to tell if it really has had less than 100 plays. There should essentially be no wear anywhere. lol.

That being said, unless the used one was significantly discounted (for me, it would have to be 1 grand +) if funds allow, I'd go with the NIB. you get the latest light boards and a fresh warranty.

#4029 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

-Brand new RR in the box with Rad Cal built this year

Go new. The new light system is installed on games built this year I believe.

#4030 2 years ago

A -used look new but is 2 years old
No warranty

---

B $1000 more

NIB built within 2-3 months
Warranty
Rad Cal
2.0 lights

#4031 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

A -used look new but is 2 years old
No warranty
---
B $1000 more
NIB built within 2-3 months
Warranty
Rad Cal
2.0 lights

If you are someone that keeps games for a good chunk of time and you have the $$, I would go with B.

If you are someone who likes to keep the line up fresh and tends to swap/sell/replace games often, I would go with the used one (since you wouldnt take much of a hit if you say, resold it next year)

#4032 2 years ago

I'm a keeper, had (still have) Potc for 9-10 years.

As long as the game is to my liking I'll keep

I waited so long because I was unsure about Woz but likely I'm keeping it for long time.

I'm always warey if I may dislike a pin, but if Woz is like tspp that's the ticket

#4033 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I'm a keeper, had (still have) Potc for 9-10 years.
As long as the game is to my liking I'll keep
I waited so long because I was unsure about Woz but likely I'm keeping it for long time

Definitely buy new then.

As for Rad Cals, I see you have a few pins in your collection. I would just ask whether WOZ will be at a prominent place on the end and you want the extra bling, or will it be in the middle of a line of pins in a dark room, in which case, you probably won't notice the difference. Rad Cals should really be just a personal choice. As I said, I'm not sure if there is enough data yet that it actually contributes to resale value of the pin.

#4034 2 years ago

Thanks

Rad Cal are not my idea, but the dealer has one coming with them so that's the deal (trade my pin)

If I could get not Rad Cal for less I would but I think he said they're mostly making the RR with them. I think RR is nearly done so they want to sell for higher price.

I'm sure Jack will come out with limited edition 80th anniversary or something.

#4035 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Thanks
Rad Cal are not my idea, but the dealer has one coming with them so that's the deal (trade my pin)
I'd say if I could get not Rad Cal for less but I think he said they're mostly making the RR with them

Rad Cals look fantastic. Super shiny. Not sure they're worth $400 or whatever they cost though. Go used. $1000 is a lot of scratch.

#4036 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Rad Cals look fantastic. Super shiny. Not sure they're worth $400 or whatever they cost though. Go used. $1000 is a lot of scratch.

I agree!

#4037 2 years ago

Go New
2.0 Lights totally worth the $.
I would gladly cough up an extra 1K if I could swap out my RR for a NIB RR with 2.0 lights.

#4038 2 years ago

The light boards are always in the back of most people's minds so see if the used game has buffered boards, if so you should be good and lots will ask if you resell, but if you have the dough and plan on keeping for a while I would go 2.0

#4039 2 years ago

A lot has been made in the threads about the light system, however if it has 7.5 buffered boards and low plays and no wear that would be my option. A grand is a lot of hard earned cash to put out for a "what if, just in-case scenario that may never come to be".

#4040 2 years ago

Not just light boards, that's one issue

1) 1 year warranty
2) Rad Cal
3) 2.0 light boards vs old system
4) ??? Unknown issue (?? Unknown)

I'm buying this from a guy (dealer) who bought it from another guy (previous owner). I don't know how many other people have owned the game.

Best case is that it's 'like new'. However there is a possibility (not saying yes or no) but a possibility that it is a lemon. What I mean, maybe it has been a problem and that's why the owner wants to sell it.

I can't speak for the prior owner or this specific pin. I will say if I have a car or pin that runs 100% and never gives me an ounce of trouble I'm keeping that car or pin. If I have a car or pin that gets fixed and two months later something else breaks, gets fixed and two months later something else breaks etc.. I'm selling that car or pin.

I've gotten PM from someone here tells me had a Woz that needed light boards replaced 6 times. Each time needs to remove, mail, reinstall, machine is down for weeks. Repeat times 6.

One board out of warranty (was told) can cost up to $250

#4041 2 years ago

Rai - if a light board dies on a pre 2.0 system, you can disable the board in programming and jumper around it. Doing this makes the game completely normal again besides the one board you jumpered around is now the only board out of service - the game is playable again and Woz knows that board is disabled, so everything “downstream” in the chain works correctly again.

#4042 2 years ago

Take it from someone that had a lighting issue with 7.5v boards.
The daisy chain makes it a pain (poet i know it) to figure out where your problem is.

#4043 2 years ago

Just fixed mine, Taking the castle playfield off was a lot easier than I thought, I actually had two boards out. She is working fine now. As long as JJP supports the game I am keeping it.

I think all of us that have issues with the 7.5 boards would love to have the newer system

#4044 2 years ago

Sorry to be OT regarding my pending game, I should have just started a new thread.

----

Back to the game. I've not played it too much yet, still waiting for my pin.

Was curious about the horse targets, if people worry about collecting them or does it just happen? If you collect a wrong color how do you get rid of it? I mean say you have R G Y Y as an example. Do you just cash that in or can you get rid of a Y or get rid of R G by adding rainbow or Y Y?

#4045 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Sorry to be OT regarding my pending game, I should have just started a new thread.
----
Back to the game. I've not played it too much yet, still waiting for my pin.
Was curious about the horse targets, if people worry about collecting them or does it just happen? If you collect a wrong color how do you get rid of it? I mean say you have R G Y Y as an example. Do you just cash that in or can you get rid of a Y or get rid of R G by adding rainbow or Y Y?

It's a FIFO scenario. So if you collected R, G, Y, and another Y on the first level (4 horses) and you get an Orange the stable would look like G, Y, Y, O. So, basically you have to start over. I believe the slingshot under the OZ lanes changes the available horse colors on the shots and Glinda can too.
It's worth going for horses to get the second level extra ball OR if you had a nice munchkin mode or two that ball. Otherwise I ignore them.

#4046 2 years ago

By the way...the lighting system "issue" is waaay overblown in my opinion. I had one bad board on mine immediately upon unboxing my game years ago (a single GI board, 7.5 V -no buffer board). I did the bypass board thing and the game played perfect without it. When I received the replacement board I installed it and unbypassed it. It's been rock-solid ever since. Only other issue I've had in the years I've had it was a bad Wizard Head LED strip. That was a cheap 5 minute replacement.

Saying that, I know people had real issues with the 5v boards and were having to replace them like crazy...7.5v boards are solid in my experience.

#4047 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

By the way...the lighting system "issue" is waaay overblown in my opinion.

Agreed, most people haven't had issues with the lights. And I can't thank the fine people at JJP and LTG enough for their great support. You are in good hands with JJP & LTG.

But if you do end up having an issue it will be easier to troubleshoot/remedy with the new system.

#4048 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

By the way...the lighting system "issue" is waaay overblown in my opinion. I had one bad board on mine immediately upon unboxing my game years ago (a single GI board, 7.5 V -no buffer board). I did the bypass board thing and the game played perfect without it. When I received the replacement board I installed it and unbypassed it. It's been rock-solid ever since. Only other issue I've had in the years I've had it was a bad Wizard Head LED strip. That was a cheap 5 minute replacement.
Saying that, I know people had real issues with the 5v boards and were having to replace them like crazy...7.5v boards are solid in my experience.

I have 9000 plays and not a single light board failure.
Dont get me wrong I have had regular stuff break, as is the nature of pinball, But nothing too difficult or too expensive to fix.

Im just saddened that the sparkly ruby slipper flippers didnt work out and are out of production, they were cool!

I replaced mine with the new red ones and they actually work a bit better as I think they are stiffer, but still I loved the sparkly ones.

#4049 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Was curious about the horse targets, if people worry about collecting them or does it just happen? If you collect a wrong color how do you get rid of it? I mean say you have R G Y Y as an example. Do you just cash that in or can you get rid of a Y or get rid of R G by adding rainbow or Y Y?

I've probably played 500 games on WOZ and I don't really know what is going on with horses and pretty much ignore it. I play WOZ like BSD: It is all about the multiball stacks.

#4050 2 years ago

My understanding is that the only advantage the 2.0 boards have is that should one go out you no longer need to manually disable and bypass it since they are all in isolation. Also different cable system *might* end up being more reliable than the current wires but as long as your not messin with stuff...

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 89.00
$ 9.90
Playfields
The Super Fasteners
$ 49.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
11,500 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
West Des Moines, IA
$ 12.99
There are 10055 posts in this topic. You are on page 81 of 202.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside