Correct part and cheap. That is about the price of the LED strip with out connector and the acrylic head.

LTG : )

Done! You guys were absolutely right. Beautiful voltage to the connector. Must be the LED strip. I did buy NIB just a month ago so I'll contact them tomorrow. Thanks again. Larry

Thanks for the confirmation.

Definitely cheap for the part...but shipping is $13.

Any other spare parts that are recommended to have on hand and I should order at the same time?

Maybe add some merch? The Dialed In shirts are nice.

Get them to send spare fuses while you're at it

I had the throne room strip go out too. Simple part, unsolder 2 wires, resolder, adhesive backed strip.

I always thought there should be something there, so I came up with this.

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Solder?

Mine has a plug.

The kits are 2 singles and only 1 double spotlight now instead of 2 doubles. That reduced it quite a bit. Our new 12v spotlight bulbs are so insane, I personally love them. Definitely have to be pointed away from player, thats why we upgraded to the black domes now for those since they are a bit longer. We got those same 12v spotlight MOAB Leds in 6volt now too lol

That's awesome!

Thanks again guys. Got the part yesterday and he's looking good-n-green again! Appreciate the help.

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I'm working on modding my haunted forest trees and am wondering where I should grab power for the LED eyes? I noticed the wozmods version comes with its own power source. I'm guessing I can just tap into the 7.5v GI/LED via one of the nearby boards. I probably just answered my own question but if anyone has any other advice/experience let me know.

I'm not sure but I believe most mods stay away from the rgb's and pick up power from the coin door, spotlight, or topper power.

I would not tap/splice into any 7.5V lines. I would however get a 12V splitter and go from the 12V line for trees.

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The trees do look fantastic but I can't decide on a kit or going the diy route. How did you do those?

DIY drilled eyes glued in 12V leds added a pattern led changer for flicker affect

I think the LEDs I'm using are 6v. They light up fine with a 9v battery, would the 12v from the cabinet be okay too? I guess they'd just run brighter and maybe burn out sooner...

Thanks for steering me away from getting power from the main LED loop, I don't want to stress the already stressed LED boards.

If they are 6v LED's they would probably only last 5 minutes or so and might overheat in the process possibly damaing the rubber trees.

I would simply check them and buy 12v leds if need be.

Besides, you probably don't want them too bright anyway... i think a subtle dull glow would be more dramatic.

Good thing eyes come in pairs!
You can wire both 6V LED in series into your 12V supply, & each LED will see 6V.

Overvolting LEDs often leads to really short life.

-Jason

I'll remember this tip for the future! I checked my old receipts and saw that the LEDs I'm using are indeed 12V so there should be no problems.

Are there any known tweaks to improve the consistency of making the ramp shot?

Do others get frustrated with the ramp, especially from the right flipper?

I'm open to any suggestions other than improve my aim. I can make the shot, but rejects are more common.

Periodically clean the ramp with novus 1.
The ball will slide on the ramp walls a bit and reject less frequently.
Other than that, figure out where the ball has to be on the flipper to make the ramp easily. Put a small dot in that location on the flipper with a sharpie marker.

I did this for my wife and she has moved the mark several times while learning, it helped her a lot.
Now she has cleaned off all the marks (3 years later) and says they are a distraction.

Finding the sweet spot is one of the joys of pinball and part of the mastery of each title. Its very much like a musical instrument, after awhile you just "know" where the notes are.

I'll give novus a try. The shot is doable, but I feel it should be more reliable.

If I have too much flipper power, the rejects increase. Too low, and there's not enough strength to go up to playfield.

It's most consistent from a cradle, but I'd like to tweak it so the shot was more common on the fly. There's something that just seems slightly design deficient.

Check that the flipper is exactly in line with the outlane guide, use a steel ruler.
Extremely small changes in flipper angles have a huge effect on game play.
I was using the hole to adjust the flippers but its off about 3/64" from where it plays best on my game.

I'll look at the flipper angle too. I appreciate the suggestions.

Can a WOZ owner with the 12V 27" monitor snap me a couple of pics of the sides of how it is mounted and where the power is derived from? Thank you in advance

Have you adjusted your flipper power?

UUUUGH! I need a drink

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Anyone think it's worth it to replace perfectly working, but unbufered 7.5v light boards with the new 2.0 boards? Cost is probably $800-$1k but wondering in the long run if it would be worth it?

My WOZ ECLE was made late Oct 2013 and has 7.5v unbufered light boards, not the original 5v boards. I haven't had any issues with them at all.

I've considered replacing the game with a Ruby Red but don't want to give up the collectiblity factor of the ECLE, prefer the look of the ECLE, like the clear coated apron and the direct printed cabinet is gorgeous.

Seems like issues with the 7.5v unbufered boards are hit or miss. Some have had issues with them, others none.

Also, just so the information exists in the thread I heard that the issue why unbufered boards may have an issue is from static that can build up on the playfield in dry settings. The buffered boards absorb the static. JJP recommends using Wizards Mist n Shine wax / cleaner on their playfields partially because it is anti static.

No. Why replace perfectly good components unless you are having a ton of failures? Mine has been solid. Would never think to replace anything unless I start to have lots of issues one after another...not remotely likely to happen at this point.

Good point, that's a good way of looking at it.

Cost will more likely be north of $2K. Not sure they will make kits.

Strip out all LED boards, remove all data harnesses and power cables that are cable tied to everything. Drill GI tube holes bigger. Put LED boards back in, all new data and power cables, BAG and HUB boards. New power supply. etc. etc.

If, and that is a huge "IF", a person is mechanically and electrically proficient , you are looking at 10 plus hours of work.

And I won't be doing tech support on this.

LTG : )

Yup, I'll pass! Lol

Arrghhh, I was just about to cast my vote for "Tech of the Year" too, now I have to reconsider j/k

No way in hell would I go through any of that, rather deal with a $20 led board IF a problem comes up. Now if a problem does come up, can you now replace an un-buffered 7.5v with one of the buffered ones?

Yes.

LTG : )

This may explain why all of my problems started in November and have (hopefully) quieted down. I'll be using Wizards Mist n Shine on a regular basis during the dry winter months.

If it ain't broke.... don't fix it.

Lloyd,

It sounds like a hassle, but may still be worth it if someone is doing a playfield swap anyway.

It would be great if JJP provided kits and instructions for owners who have crappy ecle playfields they are swapping, especially if they are going to incur the cost to upgrade themselves.

I agree. I'd like to see them available. Parts are available. Instructions won't be easy.

If someone is capable of the playfield swap, then they could do it.

And if JJP makes kits. And the phone rings. I'll try and help. I'm just worried that an undertaking of this magnitude, there won't be much on the phone or email, that I'll be able to help with.

LTG : )

See what you have all gone and done? My game has been flawless since NIB, and suddenly - lots of light issues. Had to bypass and turn off both sling GI light boards as there the fault started (19 and 21 I think they were) but now my "fish" board and left exit board are doing this. Does this mean the boards need to be replaced entirely or can it be the data cables? Game is OK in white test, but in red-and during game play- does this.

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Might be because a couple are turned off. I'd replace the bad ones and then see where you are at.

LTG : )

Those sling GI boards are the only ones I've ever had a problem with and it has to be because they are so close to the flipper mechs. In my case neither board was bad, either time, it was just the cable and connector. I had to re-flow the solder on the connector on one and fix the cable on the other twice. I probably need to just order a new cable for the left one but so far, so good after my repair. If you haven't already make sure all boards are enabled and go into numbered led test, cycle until you're one the first one with a problem and then wiggle the cable on that board AND the two it's connected to and see if you get any changes. Good luck!

Exactly...

I was vocal in advocating for a conversion kit several months ago. I am swapping my chipped playfield for a new one and I would love to upgrade if the cost was reasonable. My only beef was that JJP should provide such a kit at a discount to take care of the design flaw with the original system. Require trade-in of your old system lamp boards so they can be repaired for games that people opt not to upgrade.

There are issues with the 1.0 lamp board system and everyone knows it. JJP knows it and we know it. Just because someone hasn't had any issues at all doesn't mean they won't. It's a known issue and eventually you *will* have a failure. Some people have had tons of failures. Personally, I would rather be proactive and ditch the system with known issues and go with the improved version if I could get a kit.

I still feel that since the 1.0 system has been abandoned lamp boards will eventually dry up. JJP has publicly committed to supporting the system. But for how long? When does it become economically unfeasible to run new parts to support the old system? Only time will tell.

Another talking point for moving to the 2.0 system is the led driver in each 1.0 led board, the Allegro A6281, was discontinued late 2014. I assume JJP has a stockpile of these but once they're gone, they're GONE.

Good point and dovetails nicely into my point about how long 1.0 board will be available.

Thought you guys would enjoy what I did with a WOZ display I bought on EBay! Built Multicade 60 in 1 Arcade machine using a WOZ display!! Enjoy

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I don't remember the details offhand, but some LEDs have the red & green lines swapped from what we originally expected. When we send the data out to the lights, at that time, for those lamps, we swap green and red. However, there was a bug noticed recently that when you jump over lamp boards, the red & green swap flags weren't being honored correctly. This has been fixed, and will be in the next release. Sorry about that!

That looks awesome! But, just curious, why did you use a WOZ display rather than any old monitor? Is there something special about the WOZ displays?

Nope nothing special.I was looking for more WOZ mods on EBay and came across this display for $125 ,,,figured that was a pretty good deal

That's pretty good. Isn't it like $500 purchased from JJP? I always figured it would be better to find one on your own if you needed it.