Probably a bad board. Since you have a 2015 build you are on the version 1 light system. I had a bad board upon unboxing my game. Replaced it, and it's been rock solid ever since. Follow the chain of light boards to the one that's acting weird. You can "bypass" the bad board physically and in the software settings to test and to play while waiting for a replacement. Mine was a single LED GI board that was the culprit.

Interesting... exactly 3 days away from my build date so your boards are almost certainly the serial 7.5v buffered boards which should be good to go, especially having been fresh out of the box. JJP did just recently update the lighting system so that they are no longer daisy chained but your boards shouldn't be anything to be worried about.

That build date is pretty old considering they are currently in production today so it does potentially make it a bit harder to assess as it was clearly sitting around somewhere for almost a year and a half.

If you dont see anything obviously loose either do as DCFAN reccomended or check out the manual and see if there is a clear starting point to the issue. That will be the board you will want to check connections on very closely and possibly replace.

Oh... not that it would necessarily make a difference with the lights but given your build date your software is likely a few versions old, it would be worthwhile to apply the latest update.

No doubt it is frustrating but it is an easy fix. Drove me a bit mental when I first started messing with them because they were so different but they really are not that bad.

The key is to figure out which board the problem is occurring at, there is a lot about how to do that, then determine if it is the cable or the board. With connections reseat them don't just visually check them but only do that after you have identified the problem area.

Can you post a vid of what you are seeing during the test? If it is not apparent what the issue is to this thread group, JJP support is top notch, im sure it will get sorted out

Does anyone know where you can purchase the 5 pin led data cables used on the light boards in WOZ? I would like to get some spare ones for the future to be able to by pass bad boards if I have one again in the future?

Try JJP. They tend to have fair prices on all their spare parts.

HECK YEA!!! I'm officially back Fellas - thanks for the feedback! It got delivered yesterday & I spent a few hours last night putting on cliffys. Born on date is 3/31/2017 - radcals look truly awesome - I've never seen them before and they are crazy thick and super shiny and beautiful. I'm on the list for the witch smoke mod, need to get a lit up winkie, pingulp, light up the flipper buttons and life is great. I'm off to beat the witch!!!!

IMG_1521 (resized).JPG

i'm looking at a ruby red manufactured in april 2015. does this game have light boards that are less prone to failure, or is it the same risk as any other woz from this date and earlier? Seller indicated he's replaced three boards so I'm thinking it's not really any better.

Also, what were the standard options provided with the RR? Obviously, red trim, but was there a topper, invisiglass and shaker? did it have the wood apron or was that just the ECLE? anything else?

thx

Hey all,

I have a weird issue going on. The tinman rollover is registering as the bumper lane out and the bumper lane out is registering as the tinman. This is my father in laws machine, so it could be possible that it has always been like this (maybe reversed from factory?).

Anybody seen or had this happen?

Here are some pics of the switch test...

IMG_0435 (resized).JPG

IMG_0438 (resized).JPG

Lermods

My rr bought new in box came with invisiglass, topper, shaker motor, color printed manual, Toto ,castle walls ,tornado and lollipop targets.

I would suspect the pop bumper area first as they take quite a beating, but you never know.

It might be a pin in a wire not touching or pushed out of its connector, or possibly broken and the computer is trying to compensate for its incorrect address.

I would check the schematic and see if its wired right first. You might see something disconnected or loose if you poke around while doing this.

Hi lermods - anythings possible, and stuff is eventually gonna break or burn out. I decided to go brand new with the 2.0 board design to worry less about it, but paid the nib price.

Only on the ECLEWOZ versions.

I don't think there is any perfection light board version, however the versions 1.1 and onward have been way less problematic then their earlier versions. I have also read up there have been some hanging issues with the newer 2.0 as well, nothings perfect but if it's minimal and addressable don't worry about 1.1 vs 2.0 just enjoy the game.

The primary advantage to the 2.0 boards is that if one board does go out, it doesn't require that you bypass it to keep the other boards running properly while you wait for a replacement. Also can make diagnostic of a faulty board easier since each board is pretty much isolated.

Less wires, less daisy chaning, less components, less connectors = less trouble

Does anyone know if there is a designated test for the topper light? Putting the fire pot mod in and everything was working great last night. Rerouted the wires for this mod this morning and now all lights associated with the topper (wizard, spotlights, winkie, fire pots) are out. I've run through the wires and can find nothing amiss. Any thoughts on where to look next? This pin is going to be the death of me yet... Thanks!

It sounds like the fuse blew. All those lights are on the same fuse.

My thoughts as well, but visual check of all fuses looks good, so I need to figure out which one this circuit uses to test it further. I'll have to get some free time again to look at the schematics and figure out where it goes...

F713
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-some-lights-out-fuse#post-3704753

Thanks, DCFAN!! Pulled it out and that was the issue! You rock, dude! Thanks for your time!

Question, during some multi ball events and other awarded specials my volume goes way to loud over my initial setting. Is this normal or what setting in the menu do I use to control this?

visual tests of fuses are useless. Use a tester or a meter.

can any of you with the munchkin PF chrome edge protector from modfather chime in on if it has held up/ if you like it?

the cliffy just seems like overkill for me with only the edge by the ramp really the only spot getting nailed.

Well think of it this way, it is a 2 for 1 protector/mod. It looks good installed and is a protector. I had mine installed at factory and the sucker looks like it was supposed to be that way.

I love it (ModFather version). So far so good, That said I also have the cliffy and I had it powder coated green so at some point I am going to put that on. But this one was easy to put on and is holding up. BUY IT

I bought the Modfather chrome strip, and it just kept coming loose. It would end up blocking the ball in the shooter lane, so I ripped it out and and put in a cliffy instead. The double sided tape on the strip just didn't work well for me, but I'm glad to hear it's working well for agodfrey.

That said, I love the castle walls from the Modfather. Those look like they were meant to be part of the game instead of the plastic tube.

It's normal
and there is a setting... But I forget what the setting is called

This! was it a PITA to get done? or did you just order from cliffy and then send it out (local?)

Yeah this is my fear. i think if i had the cliffy painted/powder coated I would like it more, I dont really care about taking up the mini PF (though I am pretty lazy)

Thanks for the input guys.

For us WOZ lovers, in case you missed it, this is my daughter and I having a battle on our WOZ. We love this game!

Did it locally. Wan't too bad. Had a few extra layers of clear put on so it can take all the hits.

I cut mine a little shorter than how it came. I guess different experiences. It is a great solution if you are short on cash (like I was when I first got WOZ0 or you don't want to DRILL your pf, hahahaha

Hey everyone. I would like to join this club in the near future. But i have afew questions. Ive never gotten a chance to play these pins yet, but im really in love with the ruby. How different are game play between the different Editions? Also what are realistic prices on these machines? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Game play is identical regardless of version.

Price does vary for used but NIB is pretty consistent since they are still being produced.

I do recommend playing before buying. Its an spectacular game and probably the best in my opinion but depending on the type of gameplay people enjoy some don't enjoy it as much.

I see your in CA, going to PAGG? I'll have my WOZ there which plays very nicely. Hopefully power usage with a few hundred other machines running won't weaken the flippers too much.

The mini playfield was actually pretty easy to remove. Sounds a lot harder than it is.

I agree you should play before you buy, but it is so hard to get a feel for WOZ on location. I hated it at first, but now I love it. Unless you have endless dollars, it takes in home use to really get a feel for it.

I bought mine without ever having played it (and I don't regret it) that being said, that was back when there were none out there to play (other than @ the big shows). I would definitely find one to play first, why not? I agree that you need some time on it to truly appreciate the game but I'd still suggest putting $20 through one just to try.

I know, just lazy and lacking time. I will probably get the cliffy and get it powder coated (and then sit on it about 5 months before I actually put it on, haha). Just not sure if I am going to do green or red.

True and although it will be on free play at PAGG, shows are also hard to get a real feel for the game because the audio is drowned out (and WOZ has incredible audio) and often times the line WOZ almost always has a line several player groups deep making it hard to get good game time. ... says something about the game there. But better than dropping a bunch of dollars in for a route game that might not be in good shape.

Thanks for the tips everyone. Wizard of oz is one of my favorite movies of all time. So im pretty amazed at the beauty of the game. I know i may be a little against the grain upon reading some threads, but for me theme really does matter. I am curious if the prices on them fluctuate?
No i unfortunately wont be at pag. Its a little too far for me & i cant get outta work.

I agree WOZ is beautiful! If you find one on location, bring some headphones as almost all have a headphone jack on the coin door - noise canceling headphones work great! If you wait you might find a good deal but plan on easily paying $7500+ for a RR.

On that thought - it's a bargain compared to anything else around that price point.

7500 for a rr is crazy good deal expect to pay 8+

Here's a few pics of a heavily routed early built WOZ at Orange Lake resort in Flordia. I've seen the game there for at least the past 3-4 years. Standard model game, mylar kit not installed. It's cool to see how heavily used games hold up on route. Overall I thought that the playfield has held up well, the game just needed a good cleaning. Also had some light board issues going on.

20170330_131345 (resized).jpg20170330_131339 (resized).jpg

20170330_131328 (resized).jpg

20170330_131332 (resized).jpg

I had to replace the right door motor recently at about 5000 plays.
It didnt burn out, the armature became loose inside the motor.

When this happens it explains the "weakness" that the motors exhibit after a time.

The new motor had the shaft flattened to avoid spinning in the door shaft like the early ones did if slightly loose from vibration.

this also explains the squealing or grinding noise that accompanies this fault even though the doors are properly adjusted and not loose on their motor shafts.

After replacing the motor and upon re-assembly and testing, the ball would push the right door past the latch and leave it slightly open.

Bashing the left door will release it of course and the software fix will fix it on the next ball but the door is out of service until it becomes properly latched again.

Solving the right door latch problem:

I called frank and he was adamant about adjusting the "finger" or adjustment tab on the latch plate coil.
He was right.

Proper door height adjustment, while super important, is less important than the little finger-like adjustment stop above the latch plate.

Door height is easy to adjust. There should be about 3/32" between the door shaft and the motor. You can use a drill bit or an allen key as a spacer to get them uniform.

If the door is too high the switch actuator will scrape on the wood.
If its too low the doors will scrape on the latch plate. The slightest scraping and the door will not close as it only has the spring to pull it back into position.

So basically just set them so that they have plenty of clearance from both sides of the switch actuator.

Latch plate adjustment:

You can only get to it with the double door assembly removed from the castle playfield. Its easy to adjust with a big screwdriver to lift the stop and maybe a 5/16 nut driver to bend it down again.

On my game the "finger" is bent about 7 degrees upward. Ultimately the angle of the "finger" will match the angle of the latch plate as it gets hit repeatedly. This will cause the latch plate to rise upwards slightly and possibly interfere with the door switch actuator.

This is not particularly problematic as there seems to be plenty of clearance over-all if it does bend.
With the latch raised in its upward location the switch actuator should rest at least 3/4 of the way down in the latch channel.
If the doors are already adjusted properly, adjust the "finger" on the latch plate stop to make this happen.

If the latch plate is too low the ball can push the door switch actuator past the latch, and result in the door being locked behind the latch and not closing all the way.

As the game ages the double door stop pad ( manual page c-38 #19 part number 25-3000-00) will wear at an angle.

This will make an angled ramp that the door switch actuator will use to lower the latch and sneak past.

So, if you can firmly tap the right door and get it to push past the latch, the rubber door stop pad is worn out.

The coil and latch is held on with a single screw, it will have to be removed to change the rubber door pad.
Use blue lock-tite on reassembly, you dont want to remove everything if it comes loose. Although you can reach it sorta with the castle playfield installed if you know what your looking at.

The pad only wears about 1/4" off of either side at the top mostly.
I didnt have a replacement handy so I cut it off with a razor knife, and rubbed off the old adhesive from the latch and the rubber pad.

I cut the pad in two and rotated the pieces to get a fresh edge on the top, then glued the pieces back on with CA gel. A thin layer of 5 min epoxy would also work.

Properly adjusted and with a fairly new door stop pad on the latch you should not be able to twist the door shaft past the latch at all, the door shafts should rebound easily with no scraping and nothing should be binding.

I reassembled the game and the doors work flawlessly, better than new.

I played WOZ several times at shows & at one location (Marvin's in Farmington Hills, MI, a quiet location).
I didn't care for it. It was just too crowded, too much stuff, too confusing, too everything.
I love the movie, but the game felt like an overboard fanboy explosion, trying to cram too much stuff into too little space.

When changing up my pin lineup last year, a local offered me an attractive deal on his 1-owner HUO ECLE.
After not finding any other games on my wish list that were readily available, I sealed the deal. I know lots of serious players whose opinions I respect, & they love the game. I could always resell it or sell it back & wouldn't likely take a loss. Low risk deal--a big plus for me, as this was the most expensive game I ever bought...actually the most expensive *anything* I ever bought, beyond homes & cars.

For a while, I didn't warm up to it. I don't get much time to play, & even if I did, deep ruleset games are not my preferred flavor of pin.

I turned on the ball save, widened the outlanes, & switched it to 5 balls. (Some may scoff, but it made the game much more fun for me & especially my 4-year-old boy.)

Then, after a few months, I started figuring out enough of the basic rules to make the game interesting & challenging.

Now, I think the game is fabulous. My boy loves it. I've melted the witch 3x (twice in one game...which I had to walk away from because I was later for dinner--argh!!!), & that's such a blast that I've experienced on no other machine.
It really really shines in a home environment. For me, playing on location was not very representative at all of playing it in my home.

Moral? If you have room/time/patience, try it out for a while & see if you like it. Hopefully, you buy at a good price so you have the option of reselling, so there's no pressure to make yourself like it.

Thanks,
-Jason

I have an 11 year old and we are running 5 ball, what is this "ball save" you speak of? I may even lower the threshold for for additional balls if possible and turn it back to three ball. Someone mention why string out a game that's not going well and kill it early, I kind of like the thought of that.

Ball save timer (it's in the game settings menu if i recall), starts when you launch the ball. Handy if you drain or hit the outlanes right out of the tree pops. I have mine set to 10 seconds.

I wouldnt scoff at all, I did the same things (outlanes, 5 ball, save timer, etc) this game was damn hard when we first got it (still is, but at least I am better now).

Yep until we got the hang of it she had the outlanes closed up, a 10 second ball saver and 5 ball play.

Once we had our bearings I set the ball saver to the shortest time possible which is just enough to save a no touch drain and put it back to 3 ball but left the outlanes.

The great thing is that its a game you can truely adjust to your taste.