That's one of the GI boards. You are having the same problem I am having. You need a new board. Figure out the number of the board and contact JJP.

Is that a call or an email to them?

On their website, they have a support portal. You can put in a ticket. It used to be somewhat unreliable, but I've had very fast responses lately from using the portal. Is your game still under warranty? If so, the board will be free but you have to send the old board back once you swap it out.

I'm not totally sure. Bought it through a distributor back in October.

Looks like the distributor will need to do it since they were the original purchaser.

Does any one know how to tell if I have the new boards that are supposed to be trouble free?

Anyone can put in a help ticket you just fill out all the information including the serial number (not game number - serial number begins with 087--).
Be sure to put in a valid email address also. You have to sign up the first time with an email and create a password but that's at no cost.

If you bought it NIB in October, you are still under warranty. With JJP, you typically handle warranty claims on your own, not through a distributor. JJP support is excellent. This should be an easy swap.

Simple green is ok, it leaves a dull residue though.
Put it on glass you will see it.
I use it for seriously dirty stuff like under PF assemblies, that and purple power.
Topside ive been using sparkle, mist n shine and novus 1 since it leaves a shiny residue.
These things are pretty safe to use and wont destroy anything if spilled etc... especially around the coated invisiglass.

Please dont use pledge any more.
I really love it and it plays super fast on older games, but its not for use on anything modern or clearcoated.

Use mist n shine detailing spray, its really good stuff.

Thanks I'll give that a try.

JJP uses mist n shine for detailing before shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Wizards-01214-Mist-N-Shine-Professional-Detailer/dp/B002U729UA/ref=sr_1_1

Or get a gallon for everything in your home, including you car:

https://www.amazon.com/Wizards-01214-Mist-N-Shine-Professional-Detailer/dp/B002U729UA/ref=sr_1_1

Thanks! Seems people do vastly differently things for cleaning between waxings. I'll try the mist-n-shine.

Interesting, if the boards are always lighting, but sometimes displaying the wrong color, makes me think you didnt blow a board (where it just does nothing, and then all lights in the chain behind it are also dark) but instead (since it works intermittently) makes me wonder if you have a bad or failing solder joint on the RGB LED itself.

Recently one of the lights next to my state fair balloon (right by the left flipper) is doing the same thing. I am going to try and reflow the solder to the RGB LED and see if it really was just a bad solder joint (might as well, mine is way out of warranty).

Ok, this just plain sucks. I have my office right below my son's room. WoZ is a work of art right....? It's art in my office.. He goes to bed and the machine is just too loud even muted... No fun late at night...

Time for some better insulation... the almighty Oz demands it!

Turn the tree's/pops down (if you havent already), that was the loudest part for me. (i had the same issue, waking up the kids)

So headphone jack, does sound still come out of machine when plugged in?

Hi guys does anyone know what does this mean ? This just came up and it doesnt work at all....any help will be appreciated....

Data is definitely getting through to the downstream LEDs. It is just something wrong with that individual one. Or, I should say, those six LEDs that failed recently. Not sure if it the solder joints, but I do seem to have received a bad batch.

1488166026952-937953076.jpg

What is it?

Nevermind just saw the photo.

Hard to see but looks like maybe the OS lost its boot configuration? I might try plugging in a keyboard and pressing enter with whatever the default boot option is but really its probably quicker just to reload fresh from the current software stick if you have one made already.

It's call JJP tomorrow extension 1 and Victor or Frank will help you.

LTG : )

Probably best.

Yeah I am thinking bad batch. When I pull the board underneath the state fair balloon and check it out I will post details.

I saw a similar screen on my hobbit LE yesterday for the first time, but the game then booted and played normal. Said Unbunto. Never saw it befote. Will be interested to hear what the diagnosis is.

Have a lead on a woz ecle from 2014 that supposedly had the light boards replaced. The game has no mods and is a four owner game. Conditions looks to be very nice. What price are these changing hands?

What was the cabinet style back then, direct print?

Thx

Thx

All ECLE's are direct print cabinets. I'd be curious about what the light boards were replaced with. If they were all upgraded to the 7.5v buffered system them should be good to go.

I would say $7300 would be a steal and $8000 would be a bit high so $7600-7700 range is probably pretty fair in decent condition with no major issues. I think the RR75 and mostly overblown fears of light board issues really hurt the prices on the ECLE, which is good for you as a buyer! The ECLE is very pretty too. I have a standard that I overpaid for at $7900. It was in great condition but had an intermittent light board issue (that I wasn't told about when I purchased it, perhaps they didn't know?). It turned out to be one small board. JJP support helped me find out which one was the problem, sent me a replacement at no charge and I've had zero issues since.

I think it was the buffering that was the important part. I am not 100% positive, but I think the original 5v boards were first replaced with "non-buffered" 7.5v boards that didn't quite fix the problem. Then came the 7.5v buffered boards that fixed most of the problems. JJP was then able to replace some original 5v boards with 5v buffered boards that also work.

There are some ECLE's with the 7.5v buffered boards. I'm fortunate in that my ECLE was built late enough to have them. Had considered a RR at the time but with the light boards being current at the time the direct print cab and wooden apron won me over.

A lot of ECLEWOZ numbered 0 to 1000 are selling at $7900 to $8500 with low plays (less than 300).
A couple I saw were NIB, but I think those have dried up.
Im also looking for a NIB one...
I have 3500 plays on mine with original 7.5v un-buffered boards.
I have never had a single glitch or failure, but i havent routed the game either.

The game is like brand new.

Thanks, I looked back at the pinside archive, most were selling between 7-7.5k. This is an unmodded game, I was thnking 7200-$7300 would be fair, maybe a little more if the light boards were replaced. There aren't a lot for sale and history seems limited so hard to price.

guys, are these the upgraded light boards? I'm going to call JJP with the serial number to confirm what was replaced.

IMG_2428 (resized).JPG

IMG_2426 (resized).JPG

IMG_2430 (resized).JPG

Those look like the non-buffered 7.5 volt boards. So upgraded but not the latest of the serial boards.

Well, I just joined the wonky light board club. Fortunately it's just one of the small GI boards and nothing downstream is impacted.

What's weird is that all the colors work, just not always the right colors.

For example in test mode:
Red = Red
Blue = Blue
Green = Green
White = Blue

Tried reseating it but no dice, I guess it's a call to JJP tomorrow.

Yep. That's exactly the problem I've been having. Though, it is different colors affected each time.

It you're getting colors (but wrong ones) and not total failure try swapping cables.

I just spoke with jjp, the boards pictured are original and have an older firmware associated with them v1.1, you can see it in the pic. Replacement all the boards is $800-1000 and to upgrade the firmware would require replacement of the i/o board potentially. Not all boards have failed and it's possible if they haven't by now, they won't, but that's not certain.

Pretty disappointed as I had a trade for my smaug for this woz, which otherwise looks beautiful, but I'm not comfortable taking the risk unless there is a significant discount to compensate for these potential light issues. With my luck, they would fail a week after I got the game.

From all the posts I have read of WOZ owners having to replace their light boards, the consensus of most is that the others are soon to file suit and fail shortly after. Sorry to be Debbie downer, just letting you know what is being iterated here with n the WOZ thread

I have the same 7.5 unbuffered boards in mine. I have only had one small GI board blow about a year ago. It was replaced with one of the buffered ones. I have not had an issue since (owned mine roughly 3 years or so).

The only other problem I am having is the state fair board, one LED's color is intermittently off, but I believe that has nothing to do with the board and most likely a failing solder joint on the LED itself, which I will check when time permits.

Im not sure if WOZ owners are "having to replace" their light boards is a fair assessment.
And this is not the consensus of most. In fact i would call it "Hogwash".

Certainly in a pinball game things break, its part of the fun.
Certainly as new technologies develop there will be improvements and replacements down stream.

JJP has always replaced anything you need with expert help in fairly short order, free of charge during the warranty period. JJP has an extremely generous warranty period of 1 year on electronics!
Stern has only a 30 day warranty period.

If you are having a continuous problem, work with JJP and there will be a resolution. Im confident they will not forget about you down the road as many other companies do.

Also check your wall power, its generally the culprit if things are constantly burning out.

A lot of 2nd hand owners have even received spare parts free of charge after the warranty period had expired!

If you are having trouble after the warranty expires JJP has gone the extra step in offering many customers half price replacement parts to try to help out. This type of service is above and beyond anything the pinball industry has ever offered and makes them a World Class organization in my book.

Some people always want the latest and the greatest for their games, not all are willing to pay for it.

I have a mid production ECLEWOZ and have had my share of difficulties but, in each case everything was sorted out perfectly. The team at JJP is amazing.

I have no problems with my light boards and I think with this Im in the majority.
If I want to get the newest version 2.0 light boards, I will pay for them.
But again this would be just about desire not common sense.

Yep, and they will be just that... a nice to have. My singlular tiny single light GI board going flaky after close to a year does not make me want to upgrade to the latest version of lights (assuming a kit gets made).

More likely I would buy it based on a desire to have fun making the switchover, some bragging rights and a desire to burn money but not out of any sort of necessity. At this point I'm keeping my light boards as is as they work perfectly fine.

What firmware are your light boards running? The game i was looking at was v1.1/rev 39. The way it was explained to me with this version, the i/o board could also need replacing as just replacing the light boards could cause issues with the colors, including red lighting blue or green lighting red, etc. Basically, the older light boards were wired backwards so you can't just install a new buffered board. I'm not an expert, this is just how I understood it, maybe this is wrong. Totally agree not all games are affected and it likely is in the minority, but a lot have been affected, and you take a risk as even with a jjp discount, you are looking at $600- $1000 to fix them all.

I think there are two things you are addressing here:

A: Updating all boards to the 2.0 version being shipped on new games (same as what is in use on hobbit)

B: Updating 1.x boards to the buffered boards

With (A), yes this would entail updating more than the boards as its a completely diff system (not daisy chained, etc)

With (B), my understanding is, your just updating an old board with a new board of the same rev, but its just modified with a tiny little add on daughter board that filters the incoming data to make sure no voltage, noise or whatever blows the controller chip.

Regarding B: Some have had many blow, some had have none blow. There has been speculation it is related to power (I have not kept up on this stuff, so YMMV). I can say for me, its a non-issue. I blew one individual GI board, had it replaced, the replacement was a buffered board. Havent had that issue (blowing a board) since.

I wouldnt let that scare you off a purchase. For me it would be risk VS reward. If the game has been in use a good chunk (and we're talking a HUO game, not routed) and it's still operating fine (even if they have replaced some boards). As long as boards are not blowing left and right, I would be fine with the purchase.

It's all about personal preference, if it really does bother you, perhaps a newer RR would be a better option.

Either way, good luck in the hunt!

Whoa dude, take a chill pill. I was simply reiterating what people have been talking about concerning there WOZ who had early unbuffered boards and their replacement of them. I have also had many a conversation with WOZ owners at shows with early productions who have had to replace all their light boards, so no "hogwash" is intended. As far as updating to the 2.0 boards it is not possible and I quote from Frank over at JJP "there is not an option to switch to the new 2.0 LEDs…major changes" but maybe in the future a harness adapter/code update may make it possible
Furthermore, I have never said nor implied JJP service is not up to par, so not sure why you would need to take it upon yourself to lecture me on their warranty differences compared to Stern. In fact I will be the first to say that JJP has the best service of any pinball company HANDS DOWN! Jack himself even emailed and called me dealing with my recent woz purchase and his entire staff has been more than accommodating in helping me get my customers machines squared away.

There is always a way.. Off the top of my head the following would be needed at a minimum:

All new light boards
The BAG board and a Comms Hub board
Wiring for the above
Driver board? Unknown
Software update to support the new boards? Version 6.10 that has been reported to be installed on the newest games?

That's all I can think of at the moment. The way to find out would be to have a new WoZ 2.0 sitting next to an older WoZ and perform a side by side comparison - along with some probably wire tracing and detective work.

It can *definitely* be done, the question is at what cost?

I feel that JJP should come up with some type of affordable kit to updated these games based on:

1: The plethora of light board issues that some machines have had
2: The fact that JJP will be dealing with light board issues on these machines for years to come
3: As a goodwill gesture towards WoZ purchasers

It would go very far in the community to help cement JJP's reputation for taking care of their customers to make this kit subsidized. AKA, not FREE, but not full pop retail either for those who are out of warranty.

Edit: I should mention that I love my game and I have been very happy with the people at JJP I have dealt with so far. But on the other hand this is an issue that really needs a final solution. There is precedent for something like this in the automotive world. Car companies do this all the time when endemic problems are found and resolved via owner notification programs.

"hogwash" rescinded

Sure you can do the hardware aspect, but like I said unless JJP decides to do a code update, that is the only way it will happen.

The code update is already in the wild. All WoZ games made after 12/15/16 already have the 2.0 lamp board system in them. Which means the code on these machines supports it. So that's a non-issue. It's the hardware and wiring changes that are the issue.

If JJP introduced an update kit for $500 I would be all over it. Or maybe even $750 if I knew that it would reduce the likelihood of lamp board issues on my game by 95%. Granted I am a second owner of a very early game. But I have *already* had to replace one lamp board in the first 2 weeks of owning the game. Fortunately the prior owner included some spares with the game.

And just to add, the WOZ 2.0 lighting is based on the Hobbit system but it is not identical to the Hobbit system. That is, it is not wire for wire, board for board the Hobbit system. It is more a derivative of the Hobbit setup. I doubt that clears anything up but I tried.