Pots from Mezel?

Yes

War of the Winkies!!!

Real fire.

My Winkie is harder then your Winkie

and pops up faster too!

I am way past the point of getting into Winkie contests...

Which is why I don't drive a Corvette or some jacked up 4x4.

LOL, guess I'm out too with my Toyota Prius.

Fire pots ... I bought mine a long time ago, but can't put them on. The nuts are stripped on the little black bolts on the throne room attachment. I figure I have to cut them off with a cut-off wheel and likely have to buy a new throne room plastic if I nick it with the bolts. Anyone run into this problem and have a solution? Not looking forward to this one.

Those should be nylon nuts so have you tried to put a vice grip on them and open with the screw driver? If you remove the toto plastic guard and spot light you should be able to access the nuts.

Yes, they just spin and spin. I tried prying the nuts as I turned the screw with no luck too.

Sometimes if you put outward pressure on the nut (pull it away from the screw head) while you are turning it you can get them to grab enough to get it off. Easier than cutting it and you still need a new one.

^^ was just about to suggest that, try a little outward pressure with the vice grips while turning.

Yep, that's what I meant by that I tried "prying the nut" ... away from the throne room plastic head. If I can find something to freeze it with, it might stiffen the nylon on the nut so that the threads wont give as much, if they aren't too damaged already.

Not many mechanics on this forum I guess. I wanted a new flat screen tv when they were they were $2k for a 46". I bought 6 in various states of disrepair and fixed them.... a few mods don't scare me...

Hell, MI. Ha! Spent 15 years in Detroit arrea !

That's a different kind of Hell.

I just tried my TZ lock down bar on my WOZ 75th for you. Perfect fit, looks identical...

Thank you.. I figured that was the case..

I ordered one from pinball life..

Then I found out they are *$40* cheaper direct from JJP.. So I am ordering one of those and probably sending the PBL lockdown bar back.

Which also means that if anyone needs a lockdown bar for a TZ - and also probably any of the williams WPC widebody games it's cheaper to buy one from JJP!

Yep... I've often found JJP to be very reasonable with their parts prices.

I don't have the time to look through this thread but I just found out about woz 2.0 that has been new light bords like in the Hobbit,very good news for new buyers,very very good news

That cloud mod looks fantastic. I put on the modfather well and haven't ever been pleased with it, poor fit, cheaply done mod and it recently just fell apart, can't believe I paid that much for a cheap piece of foam that is now useless. Where was the cloud mod available from?

Cloud? Do you mean smoke? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-witch-red-smoke-mod

I think there are 3-4 lists now but it's worth the wait. Ever since I got one I can't believe WoZs ship without it.

can anyone elaborate on this?

I was told by a JJP dealer this morning that "The new machines (built in the last 2 months) now employ an entirely new system that is on par with the hobbit and dialed in. They are no longer daisy chained together, they are independent.".

I know nothing more or less than that.

Wow if true. I wonder how much they would charge to change the whole thing out.

Woz has had light board problems from the start,they have done there best to patch it up with newer boards ect but the hobbit has a redesigned light board system that is much more reliable so now they are making the new woz games with that system.more reliable

Great news.

Very expensive and time consuming as of now but in the future it may be possible

That would explain the new software version that was spotted.

I was also told months back that they were working on something for WOZ LED Boards but nothing else by JJP..also was told the newer 7.5 Volt boards have just as many problems as the 5 Volt boards...so this sounds like the real fix but guessing it wont be cheap...

I'm just glad that a more viable option for ongoing support is out now. So far no issues for me and lets hope it stays that way but it scared me that the boards were using an obsolete system composed of discontinued components... 5 and 7.5 volt.

It is all assumption at this point. Until JJP actually announces or makes available some type of retrofit kit for the earlier games then it doesn't exist.

True but seems very probable.

One can only hope that it happens.. and then really hope it's reasonably priced. :/

WOZ game blades tilt graphics.

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I seem to remember someone saying that JJP was backordered on munchkin mini playfields.

I called JJP to order some parts and it turns out they have all 3 of the playfields in stock. The mini's are $150 each and the main is $700.

That being said, I also found a source for NOS playfields for $300 each. The playfields were purchased directly from Jack at a show back in March of 2013.

So from what I have learned so far about WoZ playfields, they are almost certainly Bader playfields. I personally don't think this is a bad thing, but I suspect some people may be scared of a Bader playfield even though the failure rate is actually pretty low. Not a big deal to me as I am going to clear it anyways.

The person that has these is a well known pinsider but I don't want to publicly publish his name in this post. If anyone is interested in obtaining one of these $300 playfields PM me and I will let you know who to contact.

The playfields they were selling for $300 were not fit to be used in a game. I believe there were defects or substandard clearcoat.

Anyone interested in trading their WOZ for my hobbit Smaug?

We shall see.. I took a chance on one since I plan to clear it anyways.. I will report how it turns out.

I would of course recommend a quality clear on playfield like this anyways.

Not all Baders are bad. I was worried about mine but am at 5k games now. Still looks great.

does he have the munchkin pf as well?
Id like to find a non populated one for a cheap price

No, he just has the main..

I'm having a really annoying problem with the witch switch. It registers light hits but sometimes (maybe 50%) of the time if it's hit with a hard direct shot it doesn't register. Super annoying on skill shots when you nail her and expect a hurry up but it doesn't register. To top off my frustration, I was battling her the other night, locked my ball, shot the ramp and nailed her right in the middle....the shot didn't register and drained immediately down the center. I just about lost my mind.

The switches work fine in test mode and I've adjusted them twice now and cannot seem to fix this problem. Does anyone have any pro-tips on how to get her registering better?

re flow solder and make sure edges of target are not scrapping against wood or other parts of bracket

I recently had a brand new switch that tested great in test mode, but in live play it wouldn't register 75% of the time

I did everything to that switch I could have thought of...

I hated to... but I took a very fine file and just barely scuffed it, it must have cleaned some impenetrable oil off or something, but now it works flawlessly

LOL! I wasn't going to say it, but more often than not, that ALWAYS works for me. Last time I mentioned that I nearly got my head chewed off.

Aren't the two switches for the witch micro switches with roller actuators?? I don't think you can file those down unless you are REALLY good.

Yes, they have rollers on them.

I have had this same issue as well. I was wondering if it was possible to redesign the witch switch(es) to work better, maybe an eddy sensor or a slingshot with out a kickback instead? Just a warning that if you are adjusting the switches go easy on the tiny bolts as they break off pretty easily and once that happens you are in for a lengthy procedure to swap out the whole lower witch assembly bracket.

I found when adjusting my witch last that those switches have a very narrow window in which they actually work properly... partly because the target itself doesn't have a clear fulcrum... it kind of floats.. so depending on how the ball strikes it you get different strokes against the switches.

In the end I had to spend a fair amount of time experimenting with the switch matrix up and using a ball rolling it at the witch at different angles until I was satisfied with the consistency.

A bit off topic but I just have to say, the new Emerald City series is AMAZEBALLS! A dark twist on the OZ realm where GRIM meets Once Upon A Time is the best way to describe it. Anyone else digging the Emerald City series?