Let us know how this goes, I still need to do that.

It's not that difficult. I did it when I added the mod for lighting up the tree eyes from WOZMods.com. If you're going to do that mod, you might as well do both of these at the same time.

If all you want is to take off the actual trees, it's 2 nuts then lift them off the pegs.

Thanks! Can't get much easier than that.

I'm in!! Nib standard 836/1000...invisiglass and shaker. She's a beauty. What mods are a must?

20170119_172913 (resized).jpg

Get the Mezelmods firepots.

The only MUST is the Cliffy Munchkin Playfield protector. Without it, your munchkin playfield WILL get chipped.

For recommended, the Red Smoke Mod here on pinside, once he opens up orders again. It really, really enhances the look of the whole machine getting that ugly witch with that terrible tube out of there: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-witch-red-smoke-mod/page/6#post-3546627

beside the flipper mech for the munchkin PF there is a light board that almost touches that assembly. i added a rubber oring as an insulator and reseated the connector as i had the same issue. put in led test mode, lift the PF and start wiggling the connectors if that area you will find it pretty quick. you can also mash the flipper buttons also to help localize where it is.

I would suggest removing the bumper rings (accessed from underneath the playfield) and leave the trees attached to the bumper rings. The 2 nuts that hold the trees were difficult to remove and retighten when I installed the haunted forest mode. In my case, the nuts had been tightened in between plastic pieces of the molded tree....damage to the trees could occur. Plus, removing the bumper rings will give you a little more room to work when installing the mylar.

What I found was a broken wire with one of the 6 " data cables. Been waiting a week still no cable, Hopefully today I get it from JJP. I think I will have still a lite issue besides the cable. Will wait to install the new cable and make sure everything else is seated correctly. Would love this machine to finally work correctly like it should have out of the box. Overall in the almost 2 months I had this machine its had issue after issue. I think this might be my last JJP machine, unless they do Toy Story then my son might force me to get it.

Ok! All very easy. Took them off from underneath per Devo above. 2 screws each. Removed wire ramp, plenty of work room. Mylar went down very easy.

BTW, really impressed with JJPs support. I'm the second owner so no warranty (plus it is 2 years old), but have been great to deal with. Their Mylar kit is great, particularly for the pop area as it would've been a pain to cut a piece to fit nicely.

Cliffy munchkinkand protector, plus state fair lit balloon. Tons of others to suit taste, I like the lit Winkie drop and red smoke witch mods.

So I'm trying to update to latest code. As of right now I have the
unibutin file
and the woz 606iso version
on my USB stick. Am I ready to update?

Okay first things first. I would take another flash stick and backup your settings and high scores before 6.06 full install re-writes your hard drive. This is important for coil settings and house adjustments so you don't have to do all that stuff all over again.
Use the green menus - utilities and back up your settings first.
Then, if you've used unetbootin to build the flash stick correctly for 6.06, start from game power off and plug in the stick. The machine will re-write the hard drive. After it's over, power off machine, remove stick, power on, then utilities menu and restore backup.

My WOZ RR is up for sale. Located in Villanova, PA (outside philly). 60 plays.

SOLD!

Machine - For Sale

Wizard of Oz Ruby Red (WOZRR) 60 plays Mint Featured Archived

HUO - Documented (Home Used Only) - “Selling my WOZRR with 72 plays (and counting). Purchased NIB 5/16 (updated light boards, invisiglass, shaker, manual, updated code). Working perfectly. Includes Mod Father ruby r...”

2017-01-23

Villanova, PA

ninjabones

8,500

Archived after: 10 days

Viewed: 786 times

Status: Sold for $ 8,500

Contributed to Pinside

I havent dug very far into this.

But something I have noticed the past month or so which just started getting worse:

During multi-ball or anything really "crazy" a good chunk of lights go "rainbow" on me instead of illuminating the correct color.

It either starts or stops at 8 on the YBR (i need to record or better document exactly what lights this affects).

I lifted up the PF last night and reseated the data cables going to the big board that has YBR #8 on it (W2 i think?)

It is certainly happening less now, but still came up a few times when i played it twice after. Since it comes and goes, and mainly happens during increased activity on the PF, I am thinking loose cable in the data chain somewhere.

Just putting this out there in case other folks have experienced this. Will report back as I check more things out this week.

Copying them to the stick is not going to do any good, you need them on your PC with empty USB stick installed. Then run unetbootin, specify the iso file and USB stick as destination and it builds the file structure on USB stick. Full instructions with pictures can be found here: http://support.jerseyjackpinball.com:8081/helpdesk/WebObjects/Helpdesk.woa/wa/FaqActions/view?faqId=9

I've had it happen multiple times, and with multiple boards being the starting point. You really have to determine where it starts, which can be difficult if it stops doing it on it's own. So far the problems have been cold / broken solder joints on the connectors and one connector not all the way installed into the board. If the problem does happen the best thing to do is to immediately go into test mode and go through the LED tests until you find the start of the problem in the chain, it will be either the input or output of that board or the output of the board prior to it.

A couple questions that I should know the answers to considering I've played almost 600 games now but I've clear forgotten -

1) Does the WoZ knock when you earn a replay? I know it knocks when you match, I mean at the instant you earn a game from score. I get so distracted by the lights I actually don't remember.

2) Does the base score required to win a replay automatically start rising higher as the high scores list changes? Now that I have a few 1M+ scores on my leaderboard I noticed my replay base value is 230,000 and I swear it was 200,000. I know it goes up when you earn a replay, but I'm talking the base value.

I could answer these myself later today with a few games, but I'm at work and bored and that's what forums are for right?

Spotted this on an elaut redemption game,Can be bought for 80 dollars,Possible topper?

20161219_142558 (resized).jpg

Does anyone have a spare unpopulated munchkin playfield they'd sell me? I have the other 2 , just need the munchkin one to complete the set, didn't really want to go grab a new one from JJP unless I just had to. Thanks guys!

I may have one later int he Spring if you are still looking. MAYBE. But not this sec.

Yes it knocks. As for factory replay score...... I have no idea.

I guess, but I think the "official" JJP toppers look a lot better so why not just use one of those?

There is a setting for this that increases/decreases the required score so that replays occur every X%(in the settings you determine the %.) So if a lot of high games get put on the machine then the value increases. Alternately if the only people that play the game aren't able to get good scores then this value decreases. I have seen the value be as low as 180K on my machine.

My family demanded that the reward be turned into extra ball awards instead so that they can make it further into the modes. They also demanded that the auto increase/decrease feature be turned off (just set values) because it was unfair to them if I got the award first and then the same award went up for them. I keep them happy so that pinball is perceived as being a family fun competitive activity. That way, more pins showing up is not a negative thing to them.

I considered switching the replay to an extra ball but personally it just feels like cheating - and I play it significantly more than my wife so she doesn't care what I set it to anyway.

I am now considering lowering the replay threshold when visitors come over though. It's on Free Play, but that light show feels really fun. I'd probably have to set it to 50,000 though

I will take an extra ball over a free game every time. I do like raising the bar or in this case the points required to get the extra ball(s.) There is nothing worse than being north of a million points without the possibility of another extra ball.

There's always witch battle jackpots

Question for WOZ owners - Dumb question here but... I'm trading my WOZ. I want to get the balls out of the game. Is there something in the settings to eject the balls? I dug around for 10 minutes and couldn't find any option for that. Wondering if I missed something?

You can go into the switch tests and "test" the main ball trough. Trough might actually be under coil tests, I'm not sure which set of tests precisely but regardless it's in the test menu. You'll have to catch them as they head for the drain, but it'll eject the balls.

and I think you have to have the cabinet power switch pulled to "on" at the coin door for the coils to activate???

edit: oh yeah... "interlock Switch"

Pull the playfield up and back so that the supports are resting where the lock down bar normally is. Find the solenoid that pops the ball into the trough on the right side. Manually push up the solenoid to eject the ball one at a time. If your trough has a gravity gate so that the balls would not pop out when fully upright, then you have to hold that open with your other hand. Or follow what the others have said with finding the solenoid in test mode and activating it one pop at a time.

Yep, manually activating the solenoid is the way to do it!

Side note: I don't like the gravity gate thing -- it's a great idea, but I've had balls sneak past it before with the playfield up. Not worth the damage for the few seconds it takes to eject the balls.

Sure seems like using the ball trough test is a lot easier to me, no need to lift playfield and / or deal with the gravity gate at all. You do need to either close the coin door or pull the interlock switch out but that's pretty simple to do.

Pull the glass, open the coin door, and manually eject the balls one by one. No need to lift the playfield.

I guess it just depends on what you're used to. I'm usually lifting the playfield when the machine is off, so would need to turn it on to eject the balls using the test.

Well, I usually only remove the balls when I'm lifting the playfield. But you're right, no need to lift it if that's all you're doing. If I'm lifting the playfield anyway, what I do is set the playfield on the first bumpers, eject 3 manually with my left hand and catch them with my right hand in the shooter lane, as they roll towards the top of the pf. Drop 'em in my pingulp, and catch the rest.

My WOZRR is sold pending payment

When the coin door is open and the playfield is up my WOZ likes to try to eject a ball. Thank god for the gravity gate. Anyone else notice this? Is this a setting that I can change?

Yikes, that shouldn't happen if the door is open as it should cut power to the coils. A e you sure it's firing and not just the balls shifting?

Definitely firing, Now I'm not sure if the interlock switch is on or not but either way I don't think it should be firing especially if there is no game in progress.

When the coin door is opened there can still be a bit of power left in pins (I assume the capacitor) , enough to lightly fire a coil. I have noticed this in a few different games.

It's doing that because the balls have shifted and are now blocking the opto for the eject spot, the same will sometimes happen if you lift the playfield with the balls in and then put it back down, it fires until the balls re-seat in the correct spots. That being said the coin door interlock switch should be cutting power to the solenoids. Do you get the big message on your screen that the coin door is open?

Just checked and my base replay is actually 340,000 now poor guests

Yep, I get the big message.
I need to double check whether or not the interlock switch turns it off. It just seems that I am always having this solenoid fire when the playfield is up.

I have been so far out of the loop on this game in fact when I sold my ECLE it was at version 1.03. Now seeing that the code is at 6.06 I believe, is that a final version or are they still tweaking it? And for you guys who stuck this game out from the beginning what is your feelings about it from back then versus where she sits now. Thanks

Supposedly there will be at least one more code update. HUGE difference from where the code was to where it is. Night and day. Of all the things you can criticise this game about code is not one of them.

1.03 to 6.06? Two completely different games. Leagues better with code.

Sounds like some positive remarks, wife has me thinking again about jumping back into the pool.

I never played the 1.03 code, but the game has left me wanting absolutely nothing on the 6.06 code. I hear there are a couple of freezing issues if you leave the game on 24-48 hours, but I think the longest I've run mine is 8 hours and had no issues. I was actually thinking yesterday if there was anything I wished they'd add, and I couldn't come up with anything. The game is really deep and even over 600 plays now I still have unique games. Recently I stacked Haunted Multiball, Munchkin Multiball, ECMB, and Lights On MB and it was a crazy experience that I'm unlikely to see again for a long time.

Unrelated to that: Someone yesterday was wishing for more extra ball options. I just discovered that completing a 5 horse HOADC correctly will also light extra ball. Might be common knowledge but it was news to me. So... there's another option besides being really good at Fireball Frenzy or really really "good" at WIZARD mystery rewards.

Well, the YBR gives one too. That's the easy one to get.