(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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#3001 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Turn down the coil strength so the rubber will last longer. Also, if you're careful, you can replace the rubber without removing munchkinland.

Yeah, I found a thread on here describing how to replace it without taking the munchkin playfield off. I didn't have a 2" rubber, so I went with an extra 2 1/2" rubber instead as someone suggested. Seems to work fine.

Shortly after I put up a score of 2.2 million.

#3002 3 years ago
Quoted from ramsfan:

More importantly, I am getting some rather violent airballs when I hit Glenda target or maybe just to the right on the ramp. I do have the Cliffy installed on the Munchkin play field, but what things are others doing to reduce this?

What I did was remove one of the screws that attach the bottom of the ramp. This allowed the metal piece to lay flatter on the playfield and I rarely get air balls in that area anymore. Others have done the same, which is where I got the idea from. Try it and if that does not reduce the problem, put the screw back in.

#3004 3 years ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

Just installed the lighted winkie target from indypinhead and it's great! The game had the one from Mezel on it and literally broke within the first 15 games. It is a total piece of crap. I wouldn't bother buying one. The quality difference is really noticeable. Hope this helps someone.

We have a new version in testing now. We hope it resolves the breakage issues we've experienced with the most recent build.

#3005 3 years ago
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:

We have a new version in testing now. We hope it resolves the breakage issues we've experienced with the most recent build.

I've had mine since week 2, had the game for a few years now, a few thousand plays, mezel winki target still going strong

#3006 3 years ago
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:

We have a new version in testing now. We hope it resolves the breakage issues we've experienced with the most recent build.

It would be good if you fixed it. Mine broke pretty quickly. I stopped using mods that were othen than cosmetic after that and another (not from you) broke way too quickly.

#3007 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I've had mine since week 2, had the game for a few years now, a few thousand plays, mezel winki target still going strong

Yeah same here, have had mine over a year with no issue, however, my WOZ doesnt get many plays so probably not a good sample use case. However, I will admint, a solid milled one (like Indy's) will always be stronger than a 3d printed one.

#3008 3 years ago

What do you think of my WOZ Cover? Fleece material isn't likely 100% UV, but maybe a 50-70SPF? My daughter bought it for me from over-seas for Christmas. I think I'll buy and try the Hobbit one next for my Hobbit.

WOZCover (resized).jpg

#3009 3 years ago

Nice! I'm always searching through fabrics at the craft store when I go for something like that. I found some great Dr Who material just in case I find one of those for a good price.

#3010 3 years ago

You shouldn't have to respell rescue... but you do have to hit the door 3x to open it.
And if you hit the loop then you will need to respell rescue (either before or after capturing dorothy).

#3011 3 years ago

That's a beautiful cover. I just have a standard black one from ebay. And I put a plastic carpet runner on top of it upside-down to prevent the cats from sleeping on it.

#3012 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

That's a beautiful cover. I just have a standard black one from ebay. And I put a plastic carpet runner on top of it upside-down to prevent the cats from sleeping on it.

Thanks! It's just a fleece blanket, but has really bright colors and is really nice. I like it. Made in Hong Kong and took 3 weeks to get here.

#3013 3 years ago
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:

We have a new version in testing now. We hope it resolves the breakage issues we've experienced with the most recent build.

Could you do an add-on to this mod that has a switch in its wiring harness that mounts physically piggyback onto the switch on the witch mech with a lever bent 90 deg so it is activated/deactivated by the lever on the existing switch? Then the LED can be turned off when your clear drop target is in the down position. I would prefer this because the LED is so bright, even when the drop target is down, it's super bright. If the LED was only on in the up position, it would be more obvious when to shoot for it. Thanks!

#3014 3 years ago
Quoted from audihere:

Could you do an add-on to this mod that has a switch in its wiring harness that mounts physically piggyback onto the switch on the witch mech with a lever bent 90 deg so it is activated/deactivated by the lever on the existing switch? Then the LED can be turned off when your clear drop target is in the down position. I would prefer this because the LED is so bright, even when the drop target is down, it's super bright. If the LED was only on in the up position, it would be more obvious when to shoot for it. Thanks!

I like the way the drop area is lit with the target in the down position as you still have to hit the tunnel when the target is down.
So in my opinion, no adjustment is neccessary. Again jmho...

#3015 3 years ago

You could always use an LED that's not as bright.

#3016 3 years ago

I just installed indypin version. Very happy with the result. That area was way to dark. I useda red bulb.

I also installed indys wizard black sleeve.and put in mezels fire pots. The fire pots is the coolest thing so far on the game. On the list for the smoke witch and i am done.

1484429662243-1284016180 (resized).jpg

#3017 3 years ago

I have the red LED version of the Mezel Mods WoZ drop target. The brightness when it's up is great. I'd really like the LED to turn off when the drop target is in the down position.

They mentioned they were testing a new version. Maybe they could offer an additional switch (physically controlled by the lever on the existing witch mech switch) that could be optionally chained into their wiring harness to the LED depending on if customers wanted to add it on to their order or not.

#3018 3 years ago

Question for you WOZ experts.

Who made this playfield?? WOZ RR build 8/15. Asking as I am seeing the beginning of small cracking/chips in clear around Throne Room with cliffy installed since new. Less than 300 games. Coil power set well below factory setting.

Thanks,

playfield topside (resized).jpg

playfield underside (resized).JPG

#3020 3 years ago

Yes, all the RR versions are mirco.

#3021 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Yes, all the RR versions are mirco.

Do we know that for certain? Because my WoZ and Hobbit playfields have the Mirco logo on it just below the "2011 JFB" text.

#3022 3 years ago

What I know for certain is that the playfield pictured in the post by 1quartershort is a Mirco. No question.

#3023 3 years ago
Quoted from ronaldvg:

Do we know that for certain? Because my WoZ and Hobbit playfields have the Mirco logo on it just below the "2011 JFB" text.

I guess nothing is ever certain, but the first RR came out after all that pf hubbub. I know because my WOZECLE came out at the very end and I was pissed some RR versions were built before mine. At least I was certain to get the mirco version.

#3024 3 years ago

Is anyone else's playfield chipping where the shooter lane meets the "Horse of a Different Color" under-flipper shot? I've got, probably 600 or so games into my WoZRR and that connection point is definitely chipped. It's not something that bothers me exactly, I'm just curious how common this is. I don't exactly think it will spread.

#3025 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Is anyone else's playfield chipping where the shooter lane meets the "Horse of a Different Color" under-flipper shot? I've got, probably 600 or so games into my WoZRR and that connection point is definitely chipped. It's not something that bothers me exactly, I'm just curious how common this is. I don't exactly think it will spread.

I've never seen one that is...post a pic.

#3026 3 years ago

Maybe carefully apply some thin CA glue to the chipped edges to keep it from chipping more and cover any bare wood areas with clear fingernail polish?

#3027 3 years ago

I'll get a picture when I get home. I was thinking of just adhering the small chip back down as well. Like I said I really don't see it spreading and replacing a whole playfield seems like a massive, massive nuisance. Assuming the warranty even covers such a chip.

#3028 3 years ago

hi all

just got my WoZ this weekend. I was wondering if there was an easy way to install an led strip to where the ball drains.

any other DIY mods for WoZ?

Thanks

#3029 3 years ago

Here's some photos of my playfield crack/chip. You sort of have to look for it but it's there for sure in person. The corner right by the guide rail is lifting away.

Picture: https://m.imgur.com/s8upVqt

And with slight zoom: https://m.imgur.com/bNprr

Like I said, I'm more or less going to ignore it or maybe do some preventative maintenance. It seems "contained". 534 games played.

#3030 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Like I said, I'm more or less going to ignore it or maybe do some preventative maintenance. It seems "contained". 534 games played.

I would definitely try to do something to try and keep it from getting worse. I agree it doesn't look bad right now, but I wouldn't want it to get worse.

For what it is worth, I have no noticeable damage there. WOZ standard, 12/15 build date, ~900 plays. (I have a small chip in clear on the Wizard hole. Added Cliffy there after about 600 plays).

#3031 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Is anyone else's playfield chipping where the shooter lane meets the "Horse of a Different Color" under-flipper shot? I've got, probably 600 or so games into my WoZRR and that connection point is definitely chipped. It's not something that bothers me exactly, I'm just curious how common this is. I don't exactly think it will spread.

Mine is chipped in the exact same spot.

#3032 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Here's some photos of my playfield crack/chip. You sort of have to look for it but it's there for sure in person. The corner right by the guide rail is lifting away.
Picture: https://m.imgur.com/s8upVqt
And with slight zoom: https://m.imgur.com/bNprr
Like I said, I'm more or less going to ignore it or maybe do some preventative maintenance. It seems "contained". 534 games played.

Definitely apply the thin CA glue there. It might travel to the insert light and ghost it.

#3033 3 years ago

I have a RR that was made this past Nov. Anyone have an issue with the castle double doors, On lite hits the right door will open a little bit and sometimes the ball sneaks up there and sits behind the left door and the game has to go into ball search and finally open both doors and have the ball fall in the vuk to get the game going again.

Talked to JJP, they heard of the issue before and just don't know a fix yet, Just curious if any once else has had this issue.

#3034 3 years ago

Mine (RR late '15 build) will sometimes let the ball through if I hit the door hard right after they've closed (Start MB is lit/doors open then hit rescue loop to add a lock). It doesn't happen enough for me to have ever really done much to address it though.

#3035 3 years ago

Mine had the "door stays slightly open" problem for one whole day and magically fixed itself the next. It was also the right door for me, and I did try resetting it during the day it happened; didn't fix it. Weirdest thing. Hasn't happened to me again since that day.

My best advice is to not immediately bash the door after it has JUST closed, but that's barely really advice.

#3036 3 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

I have a RR that was made this past Nov. Anyone have an issue with the castle double doors, On lite hits the right door will open a little bit and sometimes the ball sneaks up there and sits behind the left door and the game has to go into ball search and finally open both doors and have the ball fall in the vuk to get the game going again.
Talked to JJP, they heard of the issue before and just don't know a fix yet, Just curious if any once else has had this issue.

I have had the same right door issue and another issue where sometimes the doors just don't open when they are supposed to. Please let us know if a fix is discovered.

#3037 3 years ago

Are your games plugged into a power strip? If so, try plugging your pin directly into the wall plug duplex and see if it still happens. It's worth a try. I've seen issues to where higher power consumption (like multiple pinball solenoids going off) has issues with "some" power strips. If it is the only machine on, the condition may not be as bad. It has been posted in other threads that California power sometimes fades down just a touch and effected some pins. I have a Monster brand spike protector with a power meter hooked up to my TV, video, and sound systems. From that, I know when the power level is down a bit. Our Dam in Hell, MI keeps the power pretty steady ... usually.

#3038 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I have had the same right door issue and another issue where sometimes the doors just don't open when they are supposed to. Please let us know if a fix is discovered.

the castle doors have a tab that prevents them opening when hit by the door. This can need adjustment if they open prematurely or don't always open properly. Removal of the upper playfield is not too difficult the check this out. If you want to see how they work, I did this and they can be seen at the 5:05 point.

#3039 3 years ago

Looking to join the club. What should I expect to pay for a nib standard?

#3040 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I have had the same right door issue and another issue where sometimes the doors just don't open when they are supposed to. Please let us know if a fix is discovered.

I have same issue, have a case open recently but haven't heard back yet. Sounds like JJP is aware but does not have a fix yet, correct?

#3041 3 years ago

Does anyone else have an issue with EXTREMELY tight play field glass. In other words, at first I had to pry it out of there, literally with a screwdriver at the top near the back box. It felt like it was glued in. I have taken the glass off 30 or so times now, and it is still extremely difficult.

#3042 3 years ago
Quoted from tp:

Looking to join the club. What should I expect to pay for a nib standard?

$8500, before shipping. Also doesn't include the Invisiglass or Shaker which I recommend getting. That, and liking the look better, was why I went with the Ruby Red. It includes shaker and invisiglass, all the nice mod toy upgrades (tornado, toto, rainbow target decals, castle walls, etc), and a printed version of the manual.

#3043 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

$8500, before shipping. Also doesn't include the Invisiglass or Shaker which I recommend getting. That, and liking the look better, was why I went with the Ruby Red. It includes shaker and invisiglass, all the nice mod toy upgrades (tornado, toto, rainbow target decals, castle walls, etc), and a printed version of the manual.

In my opinion the standard is overpriced at 8500 as is the RR at 9500. But since you are going to be overpaying anyway to buy a NIB WOZ you might as well improve the value of your purchase by getting the 75th Anniversary Ruby Red machine.

The price difference between the RR & the STD versus the feature difference makes the RR a good buy. It looks better, has more toys/mods, better glass, shaker motor and printed manual. If you bought a standard and added the extras you would be very close to a RR price wise but would not have the great red finish on the armour and rails. Glass = 300, Manual = 100, Shaker Motor = 100+ etc...

BTW the printed manual has been very useful in my experience. I bought this separately as it didn't come with my RR. Was it pricey? Yes. Has it been worth it? Absolutely.

At 9500, closer to 10,000 when you add shipping & tax this is a big investment. It has been my experience that the support from JJP has been consistently superb. JJP is here to stay and they are committed to making you a happy and repeat customer. Buy with confidence.

#3044 3 years ago
Quoted from ramsfan:

Does anyone else have an issue with EXTREMELY tight play field glass. In other words, at first I had to pry it out of there, literally with a screwdriver at the top near the back box. It felt like it was glued in. I have taken the glass off 30 or so times now, and it is still extremely difficult.

I have noticed this also...my stern is not like that..

#3045 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

In my opinion the standard is overpriced at 8500 as is the RR at 9500. But since you are going to be overpaying anyway to buy a NIB WOZ you might as well improve the value of your purchase by getting the 75th Anniversary Ruby Red machine.
The price difference between the RR & the STD versus the feature difference makes the RR a good buy. It looks better, has more toys/mods, better glass, shaker motor and printed manual. If you bought a standard and added the extras you would be very close to a RR price wise but would not have the great red finish on the armour and rails. Glass = 300, Manual = 100, Shaker Motor = 100+ etc...
BTW the printed manual has been very useful in my experience. I bought this separately as it didn't come with my RR. Was it pricey? Yes. Has it been worth it? Absolutely.
At 9500, closer to 10,000 when you add shipping & tax this is a big investment. It has been my experience that the support from JJP has been consistently superb. JJP is here to stay and they are committed to making you a happy and repeat customer. Buy with confidence.

I agree 100%, buy with confidence. I too feel the price is a bit much, but IMHO, the game is totally worth it. If it is one you plan to keep or at least hang on to a good chunk of time, I would pull the trigger for sure.

#3046 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

In my opinion the standard is overpriced at 8500 as is the RR at 9500. But since you are going to be overpaying anyway to buy a NIB WOZ you might as well improve the value of your purchase by getting the 75th Anniversary Ruby Red machine.
The price difference between the RR & the STD versus the feature difference makes the RR a good buy. It looks better, has more toys/mods, better glass, shaker motor and printed manual. If you bought a standard and added the extras you would be very close to a RR price wise but would not have the great red finish on the armour and rails. Glass = 300, Manual = 100, Shaker Motor = 100+ etc...
BTW the printed manual has been very useful in my experience. I bought this separately as it didn't come with my RR. Was it pricey? Yes. Has it been worth it? Absolutely.
At 9500, closer to 10,000 when you add shipping & tax this is a big investment. It has been my experience that the support from JJP has been consistently superb. JJP is here to stay and they are committed to making you a happy and repeat customer. Buy with confidence.

Agree 100%, machine is worth it. Or maybe not, but it doesn't matter because once you get it, you will love it.

#3047 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

In my opinion the standard is overpriced at 8500 as is the RR at 9500. But since you are going to be overpaying anyway to buy a NIB WOZ you might as well improve the value of your purchase by getting the 75th Anniversary Ruby Red machine.
The price difference between the RR & the STD versus the feature difference makes the RR a good buy. It looks better, has more toys/mods, better glass, shaker motor and printed manual. If you bought a standard and added the extras you would be very close to a RR price wise but would not have the great red finish on the armour and rails. Glass = 300, Manual = 100, Shaker Motor = 100+ etc...
BTW the printed manual has been very useful in my experience. I bought this separately as it didn't come with my RR. Was it pricey? Yes. Has it been worth it? Absolutely.
At 9500, closer to 10,000 when you add shipping & tax this is a big investment. It has been my experience that the support from JJP has been consistently superb. JJP is here to stay and they are committed to making you a happy and repeat customer. Buy with confidence.

Agree with this. I have a standard with invisiglass and shaker. If buying new I'd go RR, however on the used market you might strike a better deal going standard. Still happy I got the standard used as the price difference was substantial, and while I like the look of the red, it wasn't worth a few thousand for no gameplay differences. (Unlike Stern, where prem/le have differences in gameplay).

#3048 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Agree with this. I have a standard with invisiglass and shaker. If buying new I'd go RR, however on the used market you might strike a better deal going standard. Still happy I got the standard used as the price difference was substantial, and while I like the look of the red, it wasn't worth a few thousand for no gameplay differences. (Unlike Stern, where prem/le have differences in gameplay).

I think the RR / STD decision comes down to how long you plan to keep it. If you don't think you'll have it for more than two years buy the standard. If you plan on keeping it for long time buy the RR (or used ECLE).

#3049 3 years ago

As to prices, when I looked and eventually bought last year, you could find distributors with standards for ~$8,250 shipped, and you could find distributors with RRs for $9,000 shipped. Definitely call around if you are being quoted JJP sticker prices. There isn't as much wiggle room as with Sterns, but there is some.

#3050 3 years ago

This might be obvious when I stand over the machine -- how hard is it to remove the trees from the pops? I have some mylar I'd like to put down in that area and I think removing the ramps / trees will make the job much easier.

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