(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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#2851 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

While I was working on WOZ today I decided to fix my munchkin cliffy. Ever since installed, about 50% of the time the ball would hit the edge of the cliffy on its way up the shooter lane and not even make it to the lanes. I took a dremel and shaped the edge. The ball never hits the edge anymore and I can reliable plunge for those skill shots. Just thought I would share.

I wish you would have shared this with me too I could have made that fix in my drawings for the next laser runs... and I will now. thanks for the great tip!

#2852 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

You know those little black half inch rubber posts that hold the clear plastics up above the regular plastics . . . . The ones with the pointy tips . . . .
I took one off and had trouble getting it back into the hole. I had to use a needle nose pliers and took a bit of the tip off with it. Is there a better way to do that?
Also, does any vendor sell them in a silicone or other material that looks a bit sharper? My posts have always had a bit of a dusty look to them.

They're a pain. I always just apply pressure from below and kinda use my thumb on top to flex it back and forth. It always squirts through eventually.

I don't know where to buy them or even what they're called!

#2853 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

They're a pain. I always just apply pressure from below and kinda use my thumb on top to flex it back and forth. It always squirts through eventually.
I don't know where to buy them or even what they're called!

I mentioned them in the Titan silicone ring pinball thread that it would be great if they could make some out of silicone. If others agree, please let them know as well. I would love for a company to make some better looking replacements.

#2854 2 years ago
Quoted from Cliffy:

I wish you would have shared this with me too I could have made that fix in my drawings for the next laser runs... and I will now. thanks for the great tip!

Sorry Cliff! It's a great product but it needed a little modification for my particular machine. It's already saved my munchkin play field multiple times. BTW, I just installed the the castle play field and winkie protector. They look great. Thanks!

#2855 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I just installed the blades from TILT graphics and absolutely love the look it gives to the playfield.

That does look nice! I might have to try that. I assume you had a buddy help with the playfield lift out to install? The WOZ playfield looks like this would be too heavy to do on my own. My only concern is my playfield is really tight -- at least compared to my sterns. Worried that vinyl blades would tear easily.

Also saw your post on the munchkin cliffy with the ball hitting the edge -- I *think* that might be what is happening on mine. I haven't looked at it too closely but since installing last week, I've noticed a lot of auto-plunges are getting bricked/interfered with.

#2856 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

That does look nice! I might have to try that. I assume you had a buddy help with the playfield lift out to install? The WOZ playfield looks like this would be too heavy to do on my own. My only concern is my playfield is really tight -- at least compared to my sterns. Worried that vinyl blades would tear easily.
Also saw your post on the munchkin cliffy with the ball hitting the edge -- I *think* that might be what is happening on mine. I haven't looked at it too closely but since installing last week, I've noticed a lot of auto-plunges are getting bricked/interfered with.

I actually installed the side blades by myself without removing the playfield. It wasn't hard at all. I used a couple clamps to hold the decal in place where I wanted it, then cut the front half of the vinyl backing off and stuck it into place. Then lowered the playfield and placed the rear half of the decal.

I've since lifted the playfield a few times with no snags on the side blades.

#2857 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Also saw your post on the munchkin cliffy with the ball hitting the edge -- I *think* that might be what is happening on mine. I haven't looked at it too closely but since installing last week, I've noticed a lot of auto-plunges are getting bricked/interfered with.

A few pages back I show how if you apply sticky felt to a couple of places on the shooter lane, you can reduce inconsistent plunges. My felt has gotten compressed a bit with time, and I'm no longer getting 80-90% good plunges, but it is definitely better than it was.

#2858 2 years ago

WOZ owners, does anybody else have their ball not make it up the munchkin ramp when shooting a lined up shot from right flipper?

I don't want to increase power, because I have "bounces" reduced to a minimum.

Just curious...

I love the game, however sometimes I feel Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!! When the ball falls short of power to make it up the ramp. "That could've started a multi ball, you know"

#2859 2 years ago
Quoted from Mechanized:

WOZ owners, does anybody else have their ball not make it up the munchkin ramp when shooting a lined up shot from right flipper?
I don't want to increase power, because I have "bounces" reduced to a minimum.
Just curious...
I love the game, however sometimes I feel Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!! When the ball falls short of power to make it up the ramp. "That could've started a multi ball, you know"

It's gotta be a solid shot from the right flipper...not always possible

#2860 2 years ago

How do you remove the witch's tube? I removed the two nuts on the metal bracket on either side of the tube. Searching the forum, someone says to remove 2 screws under the playfield, but wasn't sure which ones. I see two under the playfield that I think match the posts I removed the nuts from and securing a bracket, but it didn't seem like that would free it up.

Anyone have luck replacing that 1 1/4" rubber behind the witch without removing the upper playfield?

Thx!

#2861 2 years ago
Quoted from Mechanized:

WOZ owners, does anybody else have their ball not make it up the munchkin ramp when shooting a lined up shot from right flipper?
I don't want to increase power, because I have "bounces" reduced to a minimum.
Just curious...
I love the game, however sometimes I feel Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!! When the ball falls short of power to make it up the ramp. "That could've started a multi ball, you know"

I increased flipper power due to ramp frustration but 'haven't noticed any bounces. Maybe you can slide the flipper rubber ring up a tiny bit to compensate. That said the right flipper ramp shot has to be accurate - I usually try to stop/hold the ball in the right flipper first before making the shot.

#2862 2 years ago

When I first got the WoZ I was having trouble making the ramp on shots that seemed good from either flipper, so I increased the flipper power. I quickly noticed the crystal ball and throne room were suddenly impossible. Set it back to factory and just practiced with the glass off and a sheet of cardboard blocking the drain and now both shots are very consistent. The right flipper is a pretty narrow window on how to hit it, and I always attempt it from a fully controlled, stopped ball.

#2863 2 years ago
Quoted from Mechanized:

I don't want to increase power, because I have "bounces" reduced to a minimum.

If the "bounces" happen at the entrance to the ramp, I had that too. A long ways back in this thread it was discussed and what I and others did was remove one of the entrance ramp screws to make the metal piece lay flat on the playfield. I removed the left screw and I rarely get air balls or bounces anymore in that area. Definitely get the cliffy protector for the upper munchkin land playfield, or it will get damaged with these bounces. See the mods you have to make to that cliffy in this thread also for ball launch issues ... unless he has that cliffy fixed yet for new orders.

#2864 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

How do you remove the witch's tube? I removed the two nuts on the metal bracket on either side of the tube. Searching the forum, someone says to remove 2 screws under the playfield, but wasn't sure which ones. I see two under the playfield that I think match the posts I removed the nuts from and securing a bracket, but it didn't seem like that would free it up.
Anyone have luck replacing that 1 1/4" rubber behind the witch without removing the upper playfield?
Thx!

Answered my own question. Yeah, it is those two screws. Now it makes sense: remove the screws, that allows the metal plate to slide out, which then frees the plastic tube. For whatever reason I was thinking the plastic tube was screwed in.

Also, I had no problem replacing that 1 1/4 rubber once the tube was removed and removing the accessible nuts. You have to bend the plastic as there are some hard to reach nuts (without removing the upper playfield) but only a little clearance was needed.

#2865 2 years ago
Quoted from Mechanized:

WOZ owners, does anybody else have their ball not make it up the munchkin ramp when shooting a lined up shot from right flipper?
I don't want to increase power, because I have "bounces" reduced to a minimum.
Just curious...
I love the game, however sometimes I feel Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!! When the ball falls short of power to make it up the ramp. "That could've started a multi ball, you know"

I have the right flipper set +1 from the left flipper.
No bounces, no chatters.
Playfield pitch is at 6.7

I increased the pitch a tiny bit from factory, if the pitch is too high the balls can fly off the cross-over wireform.
Mostly the pitch increase was to compensate for dirtiness of the PF between waxings.

If you wax the ramp, balls rarely miss.
I use the recommended mist n shine. Its similar to novus 1, but more wax content.

I changed out all the rubber at 2500 plays with a factory black kit (STC rubber).
Im using red silicone flipper rubbers from Titan. I used to use urethane flipper rubber from pinball life but they hit too hard.
Black rubber on the flippers or the red silicone play the best for me and my crowd.

At 3200 plays the game looks like new with wax every 500 plays. The only wear is on the cliffy on the munchkin PF, and the plastic above the winkie guard. It gets beat up pretty bad, Im going to replace any cracked plastics at 5000 plays.

#2866 2 years ago

Does anyone else think the ball save timer on the Wicked Witch Battle is far too short? You spend all that time trying to get to the battle only to have the mode end in seconds if you screw up quickly. Then you are faced with the daunting task of having to qualify everything all over again.

I don't want it to be too easy. I've melted the witch a few times. I just always feel dejected when I mess up right away. Just an extra five seconds would be nice.

#2867 2 years ago

With how often the witch whips the ball straight down the middle or straight into the left outlane I would love an option to add a ball save at the start of fireball frenzy, and maybe adjustment options for the battle. My problem with the battle is that it takes basically the entire ball saver to get the balls under control. But I'm melting the witch once or twice a day so I can't complain too much.

#2868 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

But I'm melting the witch once or twice a day so I can't complain too much.

#2869 2 years ago

My general playing strategy is almost every plunge is a skill shot into the witch unless there's a big priority available like needing ECMB right this second, or a munchkin mode available that I need. I'll let those go directly to the right flipper. Anyway in normal circumstances I'll then finish the hurry up from right flipper and more or less pray the magnet doesn't whip the ball impossibly into the left drain. Do a bunch of YBRs to get the flying monkey activated, Dorothy captured, start haunted modes, get EB1, and probably get Lion and Tin Man activated. Backhands to main ramp for the Scarecrow. By the first ECMB ideally you have an EB, a munchkin mode, and all three witch hurry ups done.

Play ECMB1, try to complete, try to bring in a crystal ball mode for them points, if you get extra lucky you'll get a second EB from the throne shots, and after that I do fireball frenzy and then focus on Rescue.

Games where I pay attention to YBRs and hitting the right orbit go magnitudes better than ones where I focus directly on ECBM so I basically prioritize YBRs now. I've got the game on factory settings except the outlanes are in, and there's a short ball saver at the start of each ball.

#2870 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

With how often the witch whips the ball straight down the middle or straight into the left outlanedf

I never have that happen. You might want to check the level of your game?

#2871 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I never have that happen. You might want to check the level of your game?

Happens to me a lot except it's usually the right outlane and it's perfectly level with 7 degrees of pitch.

#2872 2 years ago

Would you guys mind taking a quick look at your throne room and letting me know whether the LEDs are squarely placed under the wizard or if they are somewhat to the rear of it. My LEDs seem to have slipped out a tad, and I sometimes have to push them back in a bit. I'm wondering how they are supposed to be positioned and held down. Here are some picks of mine after I pushed them back a bit but not fully.

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#2873 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Would you guys mind taking a quick look at your throne room and letting me know whether the LEDs are squarely placed under the wizard or if they are somewhat to the rear of it. My LEDs seem to have slipped out a tad, and I sometimes have to push them back in a bit. I'm wondering how they are supposed to be positioned and held down. Here are some picks of mine after I pushed them back a bit but not fully.

Mine seem to be lined up squarely, but I can look more closely when I take the glass off. I'm wondering if it's just the basic adhesive backing has come loose, and not strong enough to keep it in place? Maybe a touch of double sided tape or glue to more securely hold it in place?

#2874 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I never have that happen. You might want to check the level of your game?

My game is absolutely level left-to-right, and exactly 6.5 degrees in pitch. Witch constantly throws the ball SDTM and to the left outlane. I guess by "constantly" I mean at least once every third game. It's not every ball. But it's definitely enough that I'm shouting #@%$ing bull@%#$ in my basement a lot.

It could be in relation to how frequently I'm shooting that target. A larger sample size of attempts would mean I have more opportunities for that to happen I guess. Like I said above I complete the hurry ups very early on in the game. I think (or at least it feels like) she gets more aggressive as you get through the witch hurry ups too, and I'm basically always done with which hurry up three on ball one by my second Emerald City lock.

#2875 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Mine seem to be lined up squarely, but I can look more closely when I take the glass off. I'm wondering if it's just the basic adhesive backing has come loose, and not strong enough to keep it in place? Maybe a touch of double sided tape or glue to more securely hold it in place?

Thanks for checking. Another weekend project for me .....

#2876 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

My game is absolutely level left-to-right, and exactly 6.5 degrees in pitch. Witch constantly throws the ball SDTM and to the left outlane. I guess by "constantly" I mean at least once every third game. It's not every ball. But it's definitely enough that I'm shouting #@%$ing bull@%#$ in my basement a lot.

She used to constantly send the ball straight into the right outlane for me. Between that and the haunted bumpers doing the same from time to time... I literally played three games in a row once where all three balls were hopelessly flung straight into the outlane... I finally moved the outlane in.

Now she's much more tame. She'll still send it straight into the outlane from time to time but mostly it just scares me and is recoverable.

#2877 2 years ago

Question for you guys just got my brand new 75th took it out of the box and it looks like there's a problem with the head decals not sure if I am correct or not wonder if you guys can tell me if there's something wrong with them or not looks like the color is missing on the edges

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#2878 2 years ago

is that reflection or no decal? Also whats your manufacture date?

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#2879 2 years ago

No reflection that's what they look like with the white lines almost looks like it's peeling away game was manufactured November of this year

#2880 2 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

No reflection that's what they look like with the white lines almost looks like it's peeling away game was manufactured November of this year

Well thats shitty! Definitely shouldnt look like that. Id call JJP directly but id assume the best they will do is send a new decal. Good luck hopefully they take care of you for the amount of money you just spent.

#2881 2 years ago

Appreciate the response, I know nothing is perfect but I think this is a little much . I did expect better quality control on a JJP game for the price you pay. The other side has the same issue just not as much severe as the right side.

#2882 2 years ago

Your picture is not great, I'd take some better ones before contacting your distributor. Is it possible these are wear marks from shipping? Either way it's not acceptable and you'll have to see what kind of remedy they will provide, please let us know what they say and good luck.

#2883 2 years ago

Finally joined the Club, Some out of box issues as noted above. Been wanting one for years, It sits next to it's evil cousin....

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#2884 2 years ago

That's funny, Metallica is going to be my next game early next year. Just got a WoZRR. Grats on the game!

#2885 2 years ago

Congrats on the WOZ! Sorry about the decals, I'm sure they will make it right though. My ECLE had a scratch on the monitor when I got it. I felt bad complaining because it was pretty small but it was one of those things thats hard to see but once you do see you have a hard time unseeing it. Regardless, they sent out a new monitor right away. I'd like to think my original monitor got recycled into one of the DI prototypes

#2886 2 years ago

Happy to report Frank from JJP called me . They are sending out a tech to re decal the head. I appreciate the fast service.they seem to really stand behind their product

#2887 2 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Happy to report Frank from JJP called me . They are sending out a tech to re decal the head. I appreciate the fast service.they seem to really stand behind their product

WOW! That's great service - Stern should really take note of this.

#2888 2 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Happy to report Frank from JJP called me . They are sending out a tech to re decal the head. I appreciate the fast service.they seem to really stand behind their product

Wow! That is terrific.

#2889 2 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Happy to report Frank from JJP called me . They are sending out a tech to re decal the head. I appreciate the fast service.they seem to really stand behind their product

Would you mind detailing how the tech goes about it? I have to replace a head decal on mine (at some point)...

#2890 2 years ago

Has anyone else had to troubleshoot an Opto problem on WOZ? I fired my RR up a little while ago and the throne room VUK fired about five times on power up. I went into switch test and sure enough the Throne Room VUK opto shows closed even with nothing in there. I raised the PF and found the Opto board it connects to, swapped the connection with one of the ball locks and the problem follows the connection to the board, not the Opto set itself so it appears the problem is on that board or farther up the chain somewhere. I opened a ticket with JJP but thought I might get some insight from other owners who've had a similar issue.

ltg if you can provide any tips I'd appreciate it.

#2891 2 years ago

added 3 spots to my RR today ( from the 4 i pulled from my TH) one pointed towards the forest pops and one pointed at each of the slings. i put a blue superbright led in the forest lighting and also did amber eye led mods , the slings i put red superbright leds in . i am very pleased how much brighter the GI is and the added color looks really great! i'll post a couple pics tonight or tomorrow.

#2892 2 years ago

1. Sometimes when I power on my game, the crystal ball doesn't seem to fully boot and I get a scrolling screen that looks like attached pic. I'm running latest game code. EDIT - found the problem, I checked the connector going into the board in the cabinet and one wire fell out of it's crimp connector. Anyone know the size/make of these little guys? EDIT 2 - looks like a 22-30 AWG KK 254 crimp terminal #2759?

2. I've had the backbox TV display completely freeze up during game play. It just stays frozen showing whatever it had on it until I reboot the game.

Anything I can do to prevent these?

1IMG_3282 (resized).JPG

#2893 2 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

is that reflection or no decal? Also whats your manufacture date?

So I thought it was a reflection in the art and am just noticing my WoZ has this exact same defect. Here's hoping they'll replace my decal for me too. I'll submit a ticket in the morning I guess.

Re: Some of the other recent defects listed ... my crystal ball has also done that no-boot thing above a few times, the spring on my middle right flipper snapped, the monkey drops the ball early sometimes, my castle doors were stuck open one day for about ten games (this mysteriously resolved itself the next day), my monitor went out once, and the game reset itself once too. Overall pretty surprising list of issues for a $10,000 game I've had just under 3 weeks on the bright side a lot of these resolve themselves after resetting or just giving up for a day but it's still less than ideal

#2894 2 years ago

I think anything mechanical and electronic will have some issues. I just put a lot of interest how a company handles it. I myself was surprised by some of the issues. I wanted a new production machine thinking all bugs would be out of the game by now. No luck. But the JJP team is on top of it and I feel will stand behind their product. I was impressed they were sending a tech out to handle issues.

#2895 2 years ago

If I can get the decal replaced, that'd be great. I know I listed every weird thing I've had but I'm actually not concerned about the other issues. I've been able to find existing fixes for everything listed and the spring I just replaced for under a dollar.

I guess I'm a teensy bit salty that I'm having issues at all, but like you said everything mechanical has them. Especially mechanical things that are made to have steel orbs slammed into them.

#2896 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

If I can get the decal replaced, that'd be great. I know I listed every weird thing I've had but I'm actually not concerned about the other issues. I've been able to find existing fixes for everything listed and the spring I just replaced for under a dollar.
I guess I'm a teensy bit salty that I'm having issues at all, but like you said everything mechanical has them. Especially mechanical things that are made to have steel orbs slammed into them.

I have complete faith that JJP will take care of you.

You must know that the home market is new to the pinball industry.

Im actually shocked that a commercial equipment vendor would even attempt direct sales to homes.
It is quite an undertaking and JJP has done wonders comparatively. They deserve much acclaim.

Remember that buying from a distributor is often the best, as commercial equipment always has to be setup and tweaked on site due to many factors specific to the location. Power supply problems from the wall current comes to mind, plus any known tweaks and adjustments or small parts failures. This is common.

This equipment was meant to be abused on location and most operators would not be concerned about cabinet artwork as it wouldnt be seen in a line-up and would probably have initials carved in it the first week.

So hang in there, it will all work out with a little patience.

#2897 2 years ago

Finally! Took almost 3 months!

(and easy outlanes, 5 balls/game, & a modest ballsave timer)

Wow. Felt wonderful. What a rush. Good timing too, as I'd played about 1 hour of adrenaline-rush super-flashy-modded Tron earlier, a game whose ruleset is more up my alley (simple!). I was getting a bit disenchanted with this game, as the rules are too deep relative to the limited amount of time (both frequency & length of play sessions) I have available to play (partly b/c the game just has so many coils & is so very loud during multiballs, & it's in the garage under the bedroom of my 1-year-old light sleeper of a daughter), but tonight was a thrill--she'll definitely stay around for a while. :]

(Still ended up getting only my 3rd-highest score...)

-Jason

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#2898 2 years ago

So I have an emerald green unit that was for sale a while back (not ecle, just had the green armor and rails, etc). It came with a topper that was a kind of silhouette of the emerald city. Maybe it's what was on the ecle. I'm not sure. Bottom line, I recently got a 75th topper and put it on. But lit up all green like the other topper, I don't think it looks very good. I should have gotten pictures. Sorry.

Is there a way to change the color of the lights that illuminate the topper? I looked in the settings but couldn't find anything. Thoughts?

#2899 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So I have an emerald green unit that was for sale a while back (not ecle, just had the green armor and rails, etc). It came with a topper that was a kind of silhouette of the emerald city. Maybe it's what was on the ecle. I'm not sure. Bottom line, I recently got a 75th topper and put it on. But lit up all green like the other topper, I don't think it looks very good. I should have gotten pictures. Sorry.
Is there a way to change the color of the lights that illuminate the topper? I looked in the settings but couldn't find anything. Thoughts?

You need a white light strip.

#2900 2 years ago

Yep, there are 3 light strips each matches their respective topper.

ECLE: green center with orange-red segments attached to the sides
Standard: all green
RR: all white

RGB would have been neat but with the ECLE having two colors it would have meant individually controlled RGB and all that added expense. Standard single color led's get the job done just fine.

Good idea gooing with the 75th topper too, I personally like that one a lot better than the emerald city topper.

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