(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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#2801 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Always play if first, then adjust. There are differences and adjustments that vary a bit on the assembly line.

Tweaks will also depend on your environment. WOZ seems sensitive to local power variations so you may have to adjust a few things up or down accordingly. I'm set almost entirely factory myself but did have to bump up my ball trough kicker.

Personally, a physical asjustment I like is to have my outlanes moved in on this game... they are like ball vacuums on factory. Even moved in a bad shot can still easily go straight into them but at least you have a chance.

#2802 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Tweaks will also depend on your environment. WOZ seems sensitive to local power variations so you may have to adjust a few things up or down accordingly.

I seem to have to readjust coil settings depending upon the season, as the draw during the summer months seems to be more, and I get a drop in voltage from the outlets.

#2803 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

My WoZRR comes tomorrow and I was wondering if there are any default settings tweaks people recommend, or if it's all down to personal preference? I think I remember a streamer recommending the strength on the main flippers up 1 or 2, the munchkin flipper up 1, and the castle flipper down 1... but I can't recall for sure.
Anyway, appreciate any inputs and fully understand if the only answer is "you'll have to dial it in yourself".

The 3 I've played ALL needed several of the coils turned *down* a bit. If I remember correctly, the VUK kicker behind the crystal ball causes a lot of airballs and it's way over powered. But as was said above, test then adjust - there's no way for every machine to be identical

#2804 3 years ago

Same issue on my machine, but on the backbox LED strip wire.

There's a 2-position connector at the back of the body that connects the LED strip to the wiring harness. One of the pins on the LED strip side wasn't seated in the connector & had pushed out. In the pic, the yellow wire, which had pulled out, is noticeably shorter than the black wire, so it must have had some tension wanting to yank it out--somebody probably goofed the crimp, cut the wire shorter, & redid the crimp.

This one wasn't too hard to pinpoint--it was sticking out noticeably.

Thanks,
-Jason

Quoted from oohlou:

I am happy to report my problem is solved and even happier to report that the problem was not failing light boards. JJP sent me another GI board #7, I installed it, and it worked for all of a minute before failing. That prompted me to investigate for shorts and the connectors. Low and behold I found a loose wire! I fixed that and now I can get all the LED working. I even reinstalled the original light board my distributor took out before I received the pin because it was"bad" and it works. So I'm back to the pins' original board set and everything is working. Woot!
So PSA: If you have light board issues check your wires. Loose connections can be hard to see or even impossible to see when plugged in. Note the green wire below.

WoZ BB LED Connector (resized).png

#2805 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

My WoZRR comes tomorrow and I was wondering if there are any default settings tweaks people recommend, or if it's all down to personal preference?

The tree pops are typically pretty high. Personal preference ... but if the trees "seem" a little extreme, dial them back a bit.

#2806 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

The tree pops are typically pretty high. Personal preference ... but if the trees "seem" a little extreme, dial them back a bit.

Yup, I dialed the tree pop's back a few. I also moved in the outlane posts in to make the game a little less brutal at first.

#2807 3 years ago

My WoZRR JUST showed up and I noticed it has two things missing on the underside of the cabinet. I assume it doesn't matter but this is my first machine and I'm babying it already...

Pic related.

Also are they not doing felt protectors behind the legs on the LEs anymore? My game didn't come with them. There seems to be a metal protector built in now.

IMG_8684 (resized).JPG

#2808 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

My WoZRR JUST showed up and I noticed it has two things missing on the underside of the cabinet. I assume it doesn't matter but this is my first machine and I'm babying it already...
Pic related.
Also are they not doing felt protectors behind the legs on the LEs anymore? My game didn't come with them. There seems to be a metal protector built in now.

That kinda sucks but you can put in some t nuts in those holes so it looks like they belong.

I believe they have always had the metal not felt. At least my RR did.

#2809 3 years ago

Also noticing my game didn't come with the numbered apron label... unless that's not a thing anymore either. Bummer but probably an easy fix.

#2810 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Also noticing my game didn't come with the numbered apron label... unless that's not a thing anymore either. Bummer but probably an easy fix.

Really? Is it just missing or a different label applied now that doesn't have the spot for it? Here's mine from last year built I believe in August 2015.

IMG_3486 (resized).JPG

#2811 3 years ago

Mine has nothing in either spot

IMG_8685 (resized).JPG

#2812 3 years ago

If you look at the white box where the owners manual is on top there is a shipping label pocket Pin number is inside that pocket but don't cut into it because you don't want to cut sticker or if your manual didn't come with a box call JJP and they will ship one out to you

#2813 3 years ago

Another place to look is in the coin box. Thats where the pricing sticker was for mine which goes in basically the same area.

I'm not sure if the drill holes necessary indicate something is missing. Could have been a template mis-alignment or more likely a component got changed after they had made the cabinet requiring different mounting holes to be placed. As long as everything inside is secure I would not worry.

Check your playfield for missing screws, my castle upper playfield was missing a mounting screw and I didn't notice until after it has been 30 days... it was only a few bucks but hey, shoulda had it.

#2814 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Also noticing my game didn't come with the numbered apron label... unless that's not a thing anymore either. Bummer but probably an easy fix.

I may be wrong, but didn't they originally do RR as a LE (numbered) but then removed the restriction making the rest unnumbered?

#2815 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I may be wrong, but didn't they originally do RR as a LE (numbered) but then removed the restriction making the rest unnumbered?

That would be interesting but I have not heard anything like that. I do believe though that the first 1000 standards were numbered and of course the ECLE's are strictly numbered.

#2816 3 years ago

Last I was aware, the ruby reds are still numbered. Mine was numbered 422 on the box. I didn't get to pick my number and I know there are higher numbers out there, so I assume they just gave me the lowest available.

It's also advertised as limited to 1500 units on their website still.

I'll email tomorrow to figure out how to get my number tag, too busy kicking out the default high scores to care today!

#2817 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

That would be interesting but I have not heard anything like that. I do believe though that the first 1000 standards were numbered and of course the ECLE's are strictly numbered.

Found where I read it -- not that this is definitive or anything, but saw it here:

http://papa.org/wp-content/uploads/WOZ-Rulesheet-Version-1-24.pdf

Page 4 -- the RR was 'originally limited to 1500 but then made unlimited.' Not sure that means they've run out of numbered units or even if that's accurate...

#2818 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Also noticing my game didn't come with the numbered apron label... unless that's not a thing anymore either. Bummer but probably an easy fix.

My number was on an envelope fixed to the outside of the shipping box. If I was not attentive, I could have discarded it by accident. Also, the free play/1.00 price stickers were in the coin tray.

#2819 3 years ago

I'm thinking about pulling the trigger and finally getting an ECLE for my pin collection. I am hoping to see/play one again (any version) to help make my final decision. Replay Museum in Tarpon Springs, FL has one but it hasn't worked in awhile. Anyone in the Clearwater/Tampa, FL area have a WOZ in their collection that wouldn't mind us stopping by?

#2820 3 years ago
Quoted from Msbartie:

I'm thinking about pulling the trigger and finally getting an ECLE for my pin collection. I am hoping to see/play one again (any version) to help make my final decision. Replay Museum in Tarpon Springs, FL has one but it hasn't worked in awhile. Anyone in the Clearwater/Tampa, FL area have a WOZ in their collection that wouldn't mind us stopping by?

I played that WoZ a few months ago when we were down there - that machine is set up HARD! I barely got 20K on it, and I own a WoZ!

#2821 3 years ago

I installed the Back Alley castle walls on my ECLE. Wow does it look awesome.

Ran into some install issues that made installation take wayyy longer than expected...

The GI spotlight that mounts to a hole you have to drill in the large castle wall piece on the left didn't have enough slack in the cable so I had to remove the entire castle pf and cut a bunch of tie wraps to get an extra 1.5" of cable to mount the spotlight in the corner.

The castle wall part that has the door opening for the captured Dorothy was sitting too high so I re-drilled the 2 mounting hole in the back of it to re-position the metal bracket. That bracket is supposed to mount in the same hole in the black wooden panel at rear of pf, but the original hole was about 1/2" too far to the left (monkey door was hitting castle wall and wouldn't open) so I had to drill a new hole.

Large piece on the right was sitting too low, so added a washer on top of hex stantoff. Then had to buy longer screw to attach it because the included screw is extremely short.

Looks really great, huge improvement over original castle "walls".

#2822 3 years ago

For the lighted Winkie drop down target (Mezel Mods or Indypinhead), it would be great if they offered an addition switch or something that would only turn the LED illumination ON when the drop target is in the UP position.

#2823 3 years ago
Quoted from audihere:

For the lighted Winkie drop down target (Mezel Mods or Indypinhead), it would be great if they offered an addition switch or something that would only turn the LED illumination ON when the drop target is in the UP position.

Interesting idea. I kind of like the additional light back there regardless... but along these lines you could also possibly rig it to change color depending on up or down.

#2824 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Interesting idea. I kind of like the additional light back there regardless... but along these lines you could also possibly rig it to change color depending on up or down.

I would like to see it change color with one of the neighboring lights and also turn off when they do ... like in the "lights out" mode.

#2825 3 years ago

Looking to join the club, Just made a deal to buy a freshly made RR on Fri. I did ask if there was any updated to the newly made ones. I was told some electronic hardware has been updated on this new batch. light boards,power supply ans some other things... Not sure if its true or not but that's what I was told by distributor.

Do you really need the cliffy on the the mini playfield above lolli targets?

#2826 3 years ago

I've got about 100 games on my new WoZRR now and I see no damage to that area, BUT I have the cliffy coming anyway. It's only $28. I'd rather invest a little time and a small amount of cash to ensure the value of the game holds. I don't ever PLAN on selling it, but I just feel better knowing it'll hold value by not getting the edges smashed.

#2827 3 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Do you really need the cliffy on the the mini playfield above lolli targets?

Yes. Plus it looks great too. I suppose you could also buy a spare munchkin play-field.

#2828 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Interesting idea. I kind of like the additional light back there regardless... but along these lines you could also possibly rig it to change color depending on up or down.

I mainly want that LED to be OFF when the drop target is down. Maybe use a second micro switch sandwiched onto the drop target micro switch with it's lever bent 90deg so it gets tripped when original switch is actuated.

#2829 3 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Looking to join the club, Just made a deal to buy a freshly made RR on Fri. I did ask if there was any updated to the newly made ones. I was told some electronic hardware has been updated on this new batch. light boards,power supply ans some other things... Not sure if its true or not but that's what I was told by distributor.
Do you really need the cliffy on the the mini playfield above lolli targets?

In my opinion it is foolish not to protect that edge of the munchinland miniPF, I was too lazy to install mine right away (too busy enjoying the game) and have paid the price. Lots of shots intended for the ramp but too far right end up bouncing off that edge of the playfield and it leads to the clear and artwork chipping off the edge.

#2830 3 years ago

Once and for all for the love of all that is good and holy yes yes yes you need the Cliffy unless you want to spend $150 to get a new mini pf and THEN put the Cliffy on a new one.

I had my game maybe 4 weeks. I was the second owner but the first guy didn't play as obsessively as I was. He put 500 games on in 3 years. I did it in a month....hey I was excited for the game and streamed it a lot.

Either way it went from perfectly fine to this. There is more damage but you get the idea.

So now I have a Cliffy AND the Mod Father one and I'll probably need to get a new pf...well not NEED but you can still see the damage and you know how collectors are.

The danger is the damage moves into the ball path then you have to do something....

Quoted from mtp78:

Looking to join the club, Just made a deal to buy a freshly made RR on Fri. I did ask if there was any updated to the newly made ones. I was told some electronic hardware has been updated on this new batch. light boards,power supply ans some other things... Not sure if its true or not but that's what I was told by distributor.
Do you really need the cliffy on the the mini playfield above lolli targets?

21642626d14fae7ba5611dcdb4319127086592a7 (resized).jpg

#2831 3 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

Once and for all for the love of all that is good and holy yes yes yes you need the Cliffy unless you want to spend $150 to get a new mini pf and THEN put the Cliffy on a new one.
I had my game maybe 4 weeks. I was the second owner but the first guy didn't play as obsessively as I was. He put 500 games on in 3 years. I did it in a month....hey I was excited for the game and streamed it a lot.
Either way it went from perfectly fine to this. There is more damage but you get the idea.
So now I have a Cliffy AND the Mod Father one and I'll probably need to get a new pf...well not NEED but you can still see the damage and you know how collectors are.
The danger is the damage moves into the ball path then you have to do something....

I've had my Cliffys on order for some time now ... getting anxious each time an airball smacks that playfield ... do you remove the mini playfield to install?

#2832 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I've had my Cliffys on order for some time now ... getting anxious each time an airball smacks that playfield ... do you remove the mini playfield to install?

Yes. There are instructions on how to remove it in the manual. And there are instructions on how to install the cliffy on cliffy's site.

#2833 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I've had my Cliffys on order for some time now ... getting anxious each time an airball smacks that playfield ... do you remove the mini playfield to install?

Put some Velcro on the edge until the cliffy comes. The velcro has enough of a spongy quality to protect the edge for a while.

#2834 3 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Put some Velcro on the edge until the cliffy comes. The velcro has enough of a spongy quality to protect the edge for a while.

Good idea!

Quoted from Nokoro:

Yes. There are instructions on how to remove it in the manual. And there are instructions on how to install the cliffy on cliffy's site.

Thanks! I see it in the manual and I'll check out the Cliffy site.

#2835 3 years ago

I ended up finding my game number and free play tags. The game number was in a little envelope on the side of the box, and the free play tag was under the coin box after I removed the whole thing

And then today I got a 417,000! Not an amazing score but it felt great. Had a nice Crystal Ball and ECMB stack. After finishing ECMB I immediately drained out my last ball because I was too stoked XD love this game!

#2836 3 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

I ended up finding my game number and free play tags. The game number was in a little envelope on the side of the box, and the free play tag was under the coin box after I removed the whole thing
And then today I got a 417,000! Not an amazing score but it felt great. Had a nice Crystal Ball and ECMB stack. After finishing ECMB I immediately drained out my last ball because I was too stoked XD love this game!

Ah ha! You've got the sickness! Careful, seems to be highly contagious.

#2837 3 years ago

Is there any way to choose to skip a lock in order to take an attempt at a twister? For example, say you have all 3 locks lit and twister lit as well. As I understand it you're GOING to get ECMB before you can attempt to get the 15+ house loops. I assume this is by design to force you to get into munchkin mode while avoiding a lock light or to force you to manage starting the two modes at once, but I know some other games out there will allow you to skip the lock.

#2838 3 years ago

Lock takes precedence over twister. There may be an option in the settings to change that but I doubt it.

#2839 3 years ago

Thanks! I assume that was like that by design but didn't know if there was some hidden "hold both flippers" trick or something like on Dialed In.

#2840 3 years ago

Doing a woz tutorial stream tonight (830p Eastern). Go over the basics and offer beginner and intermediate strategies. I'd love your input. Tune in and chat, hang out, and help make history.

http://twitch.tv/boomgo_pinball

https://www.instagram.com/p/BNPXthPBDeR/

Video. Not perfect but something;

#2841 3 years ago

Anyone make tasteful side cabinet art that blends in nicely with the playfield. ?

Thanks

#2842 3 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Anyone make tasteful side cabinet art that blends in nicely with the playfield. ?
Thanks

Yep...their called mirror blades

#2843 3 years ago

Don't want mirror blades . I was talking about art decals

#2844 3 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Don't want mirror blades . I was talking about art decals

http://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/wizard-of-oz

#2845 3 years ago

Thanks. They look really cool. Anyone have them on their game? Like to see any pics out there. Yellow brick road ones

#2846 3 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Thanks. They look really cool. Anyone have them on their game? Like to see any pics out there. Yellow brick road ones

I put them on mine. Search a few pages back.

#2848 3 years ago

Melted the witch for the first time today and also kicked the factory GC off with a 678,000 game! Feels amazing man. Average scores have been creeping up but I finally got a decent game where it all lined up. One shot off completing ECMB too :'( time to work for a mil!

#2849 3 years ago

I've been dealing with an intermittent light board issue for some time, had it narrowed down to the left sling lower GI (17) and thought it was a cable issue that I had fixed with some cable ties. It finally stopped working completely the other day so it was time to really get into it and the attached pictures show the issue. The connector for the input from the previous board was not flush to the board so it eventually broke the solder joints, the fact this board is real close to both the sling and flipper mechs probably acerbated the issue as well. I removed the solder, pushed the connector down to the board and re-soldered it and so far it's working perfectly. This is the 3rd or 4th light board I've had to resolve cold or broken solder joints on but the first one that had the connector improperly installed.

IMG_1153 (resized).JPG

IMG_1151 (resized).JPG

#2850 3 years ago

You know those little black half inch rubber posts that hold the clear plastics up above the regular plastics . . . . The ones with the pointy tips . . . .

I took one off and had trouble getting it back into the hole. I had to use a needle nose pliers and took a bit of the tip off with it. Is there a better way to do that?

Also, does any vendor sell them in a silicone or other material that looks a bit sharper? My posts have always had a bit of a dusty look to them.

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