(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Meri-cah
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There are 9375 posts in this topic. You are on page 55 of 188.
#2701 3 years ago

QUESTION: I have a quick question on the RRWOZ i just got. I had to make a few adjustments, not a big deal. But, this one i am not sure about. Everyone knows what it sounds like when the ball hits the sling shots. Well, when i launch the ball and it hits the slings at the top before it comes down, those slings sound different. Not sure how to describe it but just don't sound like it should or sound like the slings at the bottom of the playfield near the flippers. Any input would be appreciated.

#2702 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

QUESTION: I have a quick question on the RRWOZ i just got. I had to make a few adjustments, not a big deal. But, this one i am not sure about. Everyone knows what it sounds like when the ball hits the sling shots. Well, when i launch the ball and it hits the slings at the top before it comes down, those slings sound different. Not sure how to describe it but just don't sound like it should or sound like the slings at the bottom of the playfield near the flippers. Any input would be appreciated.

The sling at the top does sound different, like chimes or bells.

#2703 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

QUESTION: I have a quick question on the RRWOZ i just got. I had to make a few adjustments, not a big deal. But, this one i am not sure about. Everyone knows what it sounds like when the ball hits the sling shots. Well, when i launch the ball and it hits the slings at the top before it comes down, those slings sound different. Not sure how to describe it but just don't sound like it should or sound like the slings at the bottom of the playfield near the flippers. Any input would be appreciated.

Do you mean the mechanical sound or the sound effect? The sound effect is definitely different but I think the mechanical sound is different too. I think it simply the placement of the sling relative to other objects and being further back in the playfield

#2704 3 years ago

I have been waiting to update until the final version comes out. Does anyone know if 6.06 is going to be the final update?

#2705 3 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

QUESTION: I have a quick question on the RRWOZ i just got. I had to make a few adjustments, not a big deal. But, this one i am not sure about. Everyone knows what it sounds like when the ball hits the sling shots. Well, when i launch the ball and it hits the slings at the top before it comes down, those slings sound different. Not sure how to describe it but just don't sound like it should or sound like the slings at the bottom of the playfield near the flippers. Any input would be appreciated.

The "sling" at the top has a different sound. It's more of a chop sound than a snap.

#2706 3 years ago
Quoted from bearsfan27:

I have been waiting to update until the final version comes out. Does anyone know if 6.06 is going to be the final update?

No, Keith said they still plan to add a few things and issue updates. I'd be inclined to trust them 1) to do so and 2) to do so in a timely manner, unlike Stern.

6.06 is reckoned to be a major improvement, so I'd update now if I were you.

#2707 3 years ago
Quoted from bearsfan27:

I have been waiting to update until the final version comes out. Does anyone know if 6.06 is going to be the final update?

Any particular reason to wait? I went from 1.x to 6.06, really didn't take long.

#2708 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Any particular reason to wait? I went from 1.x to 6.06, really didn't take long.

6.06 is complete...why wait?

#2709 3 years ago

It only take about 5-10 minutes to do and its fully automatic, no need to wait.

#2710 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

The "sling" at the top has a different sound. It's more of a chop sound than a snap.

Exactly. I thought it was broke.

#2711 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

It only take about 5-10 minutes to do and its fully automatic, no need to wait.

Was probably going to buy it from Borygard so didn't really want to buy it until complete. Waiting for every bugged to get worked. Or is that never going to happen?

#2712 3 years ago
Quoted from bearsfan27:

Was probably going to buy it from Borygard so didn't really want to buy it until complete. Waiting for every bugged to get worked. Or is that never going to happen?

I'm confused, the update is free to download, why would you have to buy it?

If its internet connectivity I wouldn't mind preparing a thumb drive and mailing it back to you if you sent me one.

#2713 2 years ago

I am not a complainer, but my Woz 75 is not 1 month old yet and I am having a few issues. Seeing everyone talk about how much better the build from JJP is than others, I am concerned that I am having issues I shouldn't be having. My play field seems to be pitting all over. I tried to snap a picture, but not sure how it will translate the issue. Is this normal after 3 weeks of huo?

IMG_0067 (resized).JPG

#2714 2 years ago

That's normal - a steel ball vs a wood playfield..... eventually the playfield evens out when all the dimples blend together - keep playing & congrats on the great pin!

#2715 2 years ago

Hi fellas - I was gonna flip through here for a answer but maybe it's better to ask what owners think. I owned a wozle a few years ago - it was a 5v system. We sold it, and now I've got sellers remorse. I'm debating between getting a new 75th straight from jack, or a used 75th anniv. The only thing that concerns me is the light boards. My question is: are the led boards truly fixed? I understand that anything can happen and a board or led will eventually fail, but at least buying a new game takes some of the worry out of it. I'm considering a Ruby Red built in late 2015 - anyone know if it's the same exact boards & electronics as one rolling off the line today? i just remember replacing a few boards with upgraded 7v boards with daughter boards on them & a few of them still blew. Help me decide guys - WOZ ruined it for me and nothing I play compares to it or fills the void. Thanks!

#2716 2 years ago

Light board situation is a lot better, but one did fail on my new RR woz that I purchased a few months ago, so nothing is 100%. If you can find a used woz cheap enough, it may be worth it, as NIB's are pretty expensive.

#2717 2 years ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

Hi fellas - I was gonna flip through here for a answer but maybe it's better to ask what owners think. I owned a wozle a few years ago - it was a 5v system. We sold it, and now I've got sellers remorse. I'm debating between getting a new 75th straight from jack, or a used 75th anniv. The only thing that concerns me is the light boards. My question is: are the led boards truly fixed? I understand that anything can happen and a board or led will eventually fail, but at least buying a new game takes some of the worry out of it. I'm considering a Ruby Red built in late 2015 - anyone know if it's the same exact boards & electronics as one rolling off the line today? i just remember replacing a few boards with upgraded 7v boards with daughter boards on them & a few of them still blew. Help me decide guys - WOZ ruined it for me and nothing I play compares to it or fills the void. Thanks!

My Woz 75 is trouble-free. Build date Oct 2014.

#2718 2 years ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

Hi fellas - I was gonna flip through here for a answer but maybe it's better to ask what owners think. I owned a wozle a few years ago - it was a 5v system. We sold it, and now I've got sellers remorse. I'm debating between getting a new 75th straight from jack, or a used 75th anniv. The only thing that concerns me is the light boards. My question is: are the led boards truly fixed? I understand that anything can happen and a board or led will eventually fail, but at least buying a new game takes some of the worry out of it. I'm considering a Ruby Red built in late 2015 - anyone know if it's the same exact boards & electronics as one rolling off the line today? i just remember replacing a few boards with upgraded 7v boards with daughter boards on them & a few of them still blew. Help me decide guys - WOZ ruined it for me and nothing I play compares to it or fills the void. Thanks!

The current builds are pretty bulletproof, for a pinball machine.

#2719 2 years ago

Right on - the hunt begins.... thanks!

#2720 2 years ago

WOZLE with build date 12/15. Light boards are screened 7v but looks like there was a factory post-build fix applied to all of the boards so not sure if the latest have that as well. Regardless, have not experienced a single issue.

#2721 2 years ago

I heard that their new ones are version 2.0 with the bullet proof boards. I just placed an order through Jack last week for mine for that reason. I could have saved a couple hundred bucks through a distributor but decided to go right to the source.

#2722 2 years ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

I heard that their new ones are version 2.0 with the bullet proof boards. I just placed an order through Jack last week for mine for that reason. I could have saved a couple hundred bucks through a distributor but decided to go right to the source.

Are you saying the light boards have been updated recently? If so, I hope they found an alternative for the discontinued chips they were using in WOZ.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-driver-replacment

#2724 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Are you saying the light boards have been updated recently? If so, I hope they found an alternative for the discontinued chips they were using in WOZ.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-driver-replacment

It would be interesting to see if someone with boards marked 2.0 could snap a couple pics.

So my boards are not 2.0, but appear to have had a post production factory fix applied. It looks like they are now using this controller (if I'm looking at things right):
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn74ahct125.pdf

I wonder if this is fix is equivalent to the 2.0 boards.

IMG_4822 (resized).JPG

IMG_4833 (resized).JPG

#2725 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

It would be interesting to see if someone with boards marked 2.0 could snap a couple pics.
So my boards are not 2.0, but appear to have had a post production factory fix applied. It looks like they are now using this controller (if I'm looking at things right):
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn74ahct125.pdf
I wonder if this is fix is equivalent to the 2.0 boards.

I thought those were just the buffer circuits they added to remedy the static electricity and signal lock ups.

#2726 2 years ago

Ok that would make more sense.

#2727 2 years ago

I have an ECLE that had the 7.5 V boards. After replacing a bunch of boards over a period of over 1 year with the buffered boards (which JJP did for free), I finally gave up and paid for an entire set to replace. (still had to return the old ones) Not happy that I had to pay for them but I have not had a light board lock up since.
The game was almost not playable in the winter months when the heat was on, even despte using the Wizards Mist and Shine which did help a little.

#2728 2 years ago
Quoted from sc204:

I have an ECLE that had the 7.5 V boards. After replacing a bunch of boards over a period of over 1 year with the buffered boards (which JJP did for free), I finally gave up and paid for an entire set to replace. (still had to return the old ones) Not happy that I had to pay for them but I have not had a light board lock up since.
The game was almost not playable in the winter months when the heat was on, even despte using the Wizards Mist and Shine which did help a little.

JJP has never asked me to send them anything that I paid for.
If you bought a second set of replacement boards with cash, you would never have needed to send them anything at all.
Warranty is another matter altogether.

That would be like saying, send me another complete game and ill pay cash for it so that I would have a spare game. And they would require you to send them the first one. Now you have paid twice for a single game.
They wouldnt do that.

#2729 2 years ago
Quoted from sc204:

I have an ECLE that had the 7.5 V boards. After replacing a bunch of boards over a period of over 1 year with the buffered boards (which JJP did for free), I finally gave up and paid for an entire set to replace. (still had to return the old ones) Not happy that I had to pay for them but I have not had a light board lock up since.
The game was almost not playable in the winter months when the heat was on, even despte using the Wizards Mist and Shine which did help a little.

What happens when the boards fail? LEDs go out? Game locks up?

#2730 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

What happens when the boards fail? LEDs go out? Game locks up?

LEDs go out on the bad board and also whatever is after it in the line. You can bypass the bad board in the settings to get it mostly working while waiting for a replacement.

#2731 2 years ago

The red LED on "N" in rainbow on the munchkin PF isn't coming on. Plan on doing the normal wire jiggles but it seems like that is the only LED in the whole game acting up. And the green and blue work fine. Prob a wire issue or a LED issue? Seems like more LEDs would be acting up if it were a wire issue. But wondering if anyone has run accost this and where to start jiggling.

#2732 2 years ago

Before I just snap one with my phone I was wondering if there is a good quality still of the maps you can see in the status report? I know there is the flow chart in the manual but looking for the 'map" for melt the wicked witch and for somewhere over the rainbow.

Working on doing a full walkthrough on my twitch channel soon for dumbies like me. Figured that would be a nice visual aide.

#2733 2 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

The red LED on "N" in rainbow on the munchkin PF isn't coming on. Plan on doing the normal wire jiggles but it seems like that is the only LED in the whole game acting up. And the green and blue work fine. Prob a wire issue or a LED issue? Seems like more LEDs would be acting up if it were a wire issue. But wondering if anyone has run accost this and where to start jiggling.

I'm having the same issue with the same letter. Doesn't display blue or white; all other colors work. Hasn't bothered me enough to start a case with JJP yet, but I've tried reseating connectors to no avail. If you find something please post. I'll probably call jjp tech support soon about it.

#2734 2 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

The red LED on "N" in rainbow on the munchkin PF isn't coming on. Plan on doing the normal wire jiggles but it seems like that is the only LED in the whole game acting up. And the green and blue work fine. Prob a wire issue or a LED issue? Seems like more LEDs would be acting up if it were a wire issue. But wondering if anyone has run accost this and where to start jiggling.

That sounds like the red of the RGB LED has failed. You likely need a new W10 board to fix it. Since the W10 board is the last light board in the string it should not affect any other lights in the game.

Capture9 (resized).JPG

#2735 2 years ago

How much do the light boards typically cost to replace?

#2736 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

How much do the light boards typically cost to replace?

I don't know for sure but am guessing that one is around $20 to $50. Last I saw the largest light board was around $79 to $59.

They are going to want the old one back for repair/inventory.

#2737 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

I don't know for sure but am guessing that one is around $20 to $50. Last I saw the largest light board was around $79 to $59.
They are going to want the old one back for repair/inventory.

Thanks I'll try to call them this week.

#2738 2 years ago

W2 board was $169 recently and individual small boards were $19.99 a piece if you buy 5 at a time. Id try interchanging the RGB wires with next light down the chain to see if the Rainbow lights all work first.

#2739 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

It's a beaut, Clark!

I hate to say this, but for me this has been typical behavior, I don't think anything is wrong, they wouldn't ship a broken game. I'd get in touch with them Monday to see how things are.

Well I emailed them again and . . . this time no response. My messages must be getting filtered straight to the trash bin now

Pretty big bummer. I wish they had just said "it won't ship for at least 3 weeks" instead of hearing it would be shipped 3 weeks ago or last week. I'll just stay tethered to my phone in the event a delivery setup request comes through.

#2740 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

JJP has never asked me to send them anything that I paid for.
If you bought a second set of replacement boards with cash, you would never have needed to send them anything at all.
Warranty is another matter altogether.
That would be like saying, send me another complete game and ill pay cash for it so that I would have a spare game. And they would require you to send them the first one. Now you have paid twice for a single game.
They wouldnt do that.

Well compared to the prices for boards mentioned above I didn't pay nearly what that would add up to so i guess what I paid was the price with returning my original boards to them for updating.

#2741 2 years ago
Quoted from sc204:

Well compared to the prices for boards mentioned above I didn't pay nearly what that would add up to so i guess what I paid was the price with returning my original boards to them for updating.

That sounds about right.

#2742 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

That sounds like the red of the RGB LED has failed. You likely need a new W10 board to fix it. Since the W10 board is the last light board in the string it should not affect any other lights in the game.

This diagram has appeared a few times in this thread. If a moderator or new editor is watching, they should make it a key post. I just bookmarked it.

#2743 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

This diagram has appeared a few times in this thread. If a moderator or new editor is watching, they should make it a key post. I just bookmarked it.

If a mod is going to make a key post of the diagram, please use post #2329 in this thread since it has all three drawings/diagrams (1 JJP, 2 from me) that show the relationships of the light boards.

#2744 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

WOZLE with build date 12/15. Light boards are screened 7v but looks like there was a factory post-build fix applied to all of the boards so not sure if the latest have that as well. Regardless, have not experienced a single issue.

Pretty close to the same build date. October 24th, 2015. Not one issue at all. I am pissed i got this pinball, i can't sleep im playing it so much...

#2745 2 years ago

Woz might be making another winter long appearance at my house. Cant wait to update it to the newest code and give it a fresh coat of wax!

#2746 2 years ago

Just got an email from Vic. W10 is $70 if you send the old one back if the machine is out of warranty. eskaybee

#2747 2 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

Just got an email from Vic. W10 is $70 if you send the old one back if the machine is out of warranty. eskaybee

Thanks for the info. Not that I need a board, but that sounds reasonable to me.

#2748 2 years ago
Quoted from agodfrey:

Just got an email from Vic. W10 is $70 if you send the old one back if the machine is out of warranty. eskaybee

Thanks for the follow up! I'll reach out to JJP later this week.

#2749 2 years ago

Ok, first issue. Had league night and WOZ gave out. It will not spit out balls. The game starts but will not put a ball in play. I don't know much about jjp games so here is my first issue.

#2750 2 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Ok, first issue. Had league night and WOZ gave out. It will not spit out balls. The game starts but will not put a ball in play. I don't know much about jjp games so here is my first issue.

Wonder if it's the voltage switch on the coindoor?

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