You need to make 4 of the lit shots. I am fairly certain you can shoot any of the shots more than once to count toward the four needed. Then the Winkie VUK will be lit and after you load a ball there the other ball needs to shoot the ramp and combo to the witch when it falls off the munchkin playfield.

Yes 4 of the same shot is fine even if they are red just be careful about cradling 2 balls with the left flipper and backhanding the crystal ball shot. Doesn't take much for the game to know or think you are doing that and give you no hold flippers till the end of the ball. Doesn't even return to normal when you are down to 1 ball.
Hitting 4 white shots however will give you a higher score.

I wish I knew how to do this, because JJ tech support said the same thing. This is my first pin so my knowledge is lacking.

I've lifted the play field and did my best to look for loose wires. I don't see any. I read my owners manual and emailed back and forth with JJ tech support. JJ tech support replied within 3 minutes of my submitted ticket.

"If your switch is still on. Then please go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed and push the drop target up and knock it down, see if it registers on the screen." I go to the Matrixed Switches screen and there isn't any instructions on how to go to a specific grid, nor does the printed manual explain, "you can manually test as many switches as you like."
How do you push the target up and down?

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I can't read that pic but looks like the right screen (I've only had my WOZ a few days and used to other machines ... this is wonderful compared to other machines though!). Anyway, with the glass off and playfield down, go into that test screen and hit some switches on the machine. You'll see them light up in the matrix. It looks like that Winkie target is red -- I'm not familiar enough with JJP machines to know if that means it is stuck on, or just hasn't been triggered in a while.

To manually drop the target, just push it on the playfield. To manually raise it, just push on it from underneath the playfield. It is tricky in this case because the playfield needs to be up, so harder to trigger/see the screen.

Yeah the JJP diagnoostics screens are light years beyond anything else out there right now. Don't worry if getting hit by a silver ball flying across the playfield can't hurt thr switches you can't hurt them with your fingers (unless you really try).

Do as bhwolf suggests, even if they are unrelated switches just to get a feel for what the matrix screen is showing you.

Make sure the switch is secure on the drop target assembly under the playfield:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-winkie-issue-different-from-other-posts

Another option might be to find a fellow pinsider local to you that would be willing to help (you'd be surprised). at least until you can get more comfortable with the machine. You can usually find a local sub-forum for your area on pinside, I would also post in the JJP google group as well (if you are not a member yet, contact Jen)

Please reach out to the 30 or more Pinsiders within the Pensacola area if you are still there.
Otherwise check the community map and there will always be someone near by who would love to assist a fellow hobbyist.

We all remember our first time working on a game, it really helps to have someone to help initially.
Dont worry, dont be shy.

We just received our NIB WOZ RR on wednesday. We had to wait until today to get it from the garage into the house and set up due to the weight of this thing. We had to wait for a few friends to come over and lend a hand. We unbox the new pin and get everything set up. We turn it on and wait for the machine to boot and it comes to life... sort of. The playfield lights are completely out. The monitor works and as far as we can tell the rest of the game works but there is no lighting. A quick call to the distributor who suggests looking for a loose connector somewhere. We didn't find anything loose on the playfield or the back of the metal box that houses the cpu. I opened the lid on the metal box and noticed a grey cable was not plugged into the i/o board. Its the same round grey cable that daisy chains to the led boards. This should be an easy fix, plug it back in right? The grey cable has a white plug on the end. This plug only fits one way in it's socket. The problem is the plug is currently attached to the socket but the socket is not on the i/o board. I don't know if it was accidentally pulled off the i/o board or if it's attached that way at the factory and was missed. The think I know where it goes but don't know what in orientation to install it. It can be installed with the plug release to the left or 180 degrees out. Any help or a picture would be appreciated.

I'll look if someone doesn't beat me to it. It probably was not forgotten but shipping tends to shake things loose.

A picture of the loose cable would be very helpful.

Is it J4 on the unified power board? J4 is the RGB LED power. Page D-150 of the manual.

unified power board (resized).JPG

Definitely not that board. The cable is grey with 5 small wires inside. The plug on the end of the cable has 5 pins in a single row. It comes into the aluminum box through a rubber grommet from the back right corner. The other wire that comes in through that grommet is a black cable. The grey cable is the same as the data cable that daisy chains the light boards.

Probably J802 on the I/O board then. see Page D138 of the manual. J802 is the RGB LED control.

IO board (resized).JPG

The connector is J802 based on the I/O board diagram.

About to join the club this week - that said, I am getting an original run WOZ standard - no shaker, no Invisiglass. I'm starting to wonder if I should hold out for an EC or RR? Any advice? Or should I just not worry about it and upgrade later if I want?

You can always add the shaker and invisiglass if you want. That and the paint/toppers are the only differences game play is the same.

That little square on the end next to pin 1 is not the clip. The clip is on the long side of the socket.

Thanks - I think the paint is great, but not $1500 great.... the toppers aren't selling it for me either. Seems adding the shaker would be simple. Thanks for the info!

Game play is the same but there are other cosmetic differences. RR includes the castle walls, tornado and Toto mods - these can all be added as well with the possible exception of Toto, I don't know if they sell those or not. I think the castle walls are a pretty big upgrade personally. ECLE has the signed wooden apron and direct print (not decaled) cabinet. Can't go wrong either way but if buying used the price differences may not be as steep.

Anybody know where i can buy a wicked witch head shooter rod? I know CT sold them for awhile but they dont have them anymore and said guy isnt going to make them anymore.

The clip go towards the center of the board:

IMG_1374[1] (resized).JPG

post some pics if you can, that will help us help you

I believe I just posted the pic he needs above your post. J802 is right next to U801.

It's not just the powder coat. You also get the screen printed (rather than decaled) cabinet on the ECLE. Also there's the wooden (signed) apron.

Depends on relative prices and how much you value the additions.

The screen printed cabinet was what did it for me. Powder coat I can get done myself. Apron looks nice, but it's not really a deal breaker one way or the other.

Went through the same process a few months ago. I bought a NIB WOZRR. They are all great games I just thought the RR was the better value. As I recall, the RR was about $1,200 more than the NIB STD. Primarily the RR adds the following:

Shaker & invisiglass-value $500
Tornado, 3D resin castle walls, resin toto-value $350 from Back Alley
Printed manual (along w/cd rom)-value you decide but I think JJP sells them for $150
Powder coated legs, side armor, lock bar and habit trails-value you decide but in my market that is $600+ and it is beautiful deep ruby fine metallic. Plus the extensive habit trails in ruby rather than chrome really blend nicely with the play field. And if the game stands alone or at the end of a line up, the RR really looks nice.

Again it is whatever suits you, it is a tough choice but.....it is a lot of fun and nicely made! If you want NIB you might call automated, Mike had some pretty good deals going.

+1 for Mike at Automated. He had the best deal on a NIB RR around if you are willing to pay by check. Fantastic service too.

You are real classy to down-vote me for a blank post above when I am the only person that has made any attempt to help n2vsw fix his disconnected connector problem. Bravo

Do newbs want help or not? If the people that are trying to help others get bashed then what is the point?

Sorry DC fumble finger error trying to click quote for my reply. Working from iPad. No harm intended. But don't fret I am not going to bother contributing on pinside. I will just read and move on. Cheers.

Well damn, unfortunately I missed 1quartershort's post - I did not realize the panels were screen printed on the LEs.. Picked up the standard yesterday - trying not to think about the LE features too much! I do want to add the shaker motor eventually - this machine had the upgraded castle walls and tornado ..

Anyway one thing that was NOT upgraded was the witch. The big plastic tube she's in broke off during transport so I've got to either glue or replace that - pretty disappointed but it seems a simple fix. Loving the game! Set it on easy to get a feel .. Yeah way too easy! So many nooks and crannies in this game! Got a pretty good deal overall ... Now time to sell one of the lineup!

Only the ECLE and some of the original standards (very few by most accounts) had direct print cabinets, all the rest including RRs have decaled cabinets. As for the Witch tube, you may want to consider leaving her out of it, there is a mod for this that I believe requires the Well Walls, a quick search should find the thread for it though.

Welcome to the club!

I went through the same decision process... ended up with a deal for a standard that included shaker...then added the BAC castle walls and tornado...the lit winkie target...and cliffy's. Have never looked back or thought twice about it. Game is absolutely awesome.

I've played both ECLE and RR... both are beautiful games. I actually like how the lights dance and shine off the plain metal wire forms on the Standard.

Anyway... my 2-cents... get what you think will make you happy, but just know that the standard is still a rockin game

Streaming WOZ for the next week or so. Love to have insight on rules and strategy.

Twitch.tv/boomgo_pinball

Does anyone have an opinion on the Playfield protector? I have never played a game that has it.

I have one. I think I've posted on that topic a few times. For a huo environment I wouldn't bother. It's nice to be safer, but can look like ghosted inserts in some places...

I think I would get one if my Plan was to route the game for a while to ease the expense. Then once I recovered enough to bring it home remove the protector.

I love WOZ. WOZ is so awesome even my wife loves playing (SM is the only other pin of the 11 I've own that remotely interested her). Having that said, I just had GI board #7 fail for the second time in as many months. What gives? This is a WOZ with a Dec 2015 build date. I thought the light board problems were fixed? It is easy to bypass and it is a light I don't even notice is missing while I wait for my replacement, but it is annoying.

I am new here and sorry if a repost, but my Woz 75 came a week ago and I am wondering if anyone else has the back glass on the top being rust color and orange. Mine is that way and all the pics I see online seem to look reddish with a purpleish tone. I think they did not make it properly, as it does not match the red theme at all. Also, were the numbers not consecutive, because mine is in the 300s yet some older posts show some in the 700s

Pics?

I know ECLE "numbers" were definitely not consecutive, although i think serial numbers are still... not sure about the RR numbers.

I'm finally getting better at this amazing game!

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ADVISE NEEDED: Ok... here is the deal. I can get a used RRWOZ in great shape. Built December, 2015. But to do so, i have to trade these to items. NO CASH!! He wants my TZ (very nice condition) and my 20 anniversary galaga pacman. What should i do? Bad deal for me or great deal for me?

See this picture below, based on the various photos posted it is the way most of the Ruby Red's seem to look:

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Financially it sounds like an ok deal. About even. WOZ > TZ and Pacman IMO.

This is the color I am talking about. It seems like it is missing part of the dye maybe.

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Nice score. The way I find to rack up a high score is by starting a munchkin mode stacked with an emerald city mb and a crystal ball mode. Bonus can be in the hundred thousands. Someone once posted a bonus of over a million.

Call jjp.

Also, it appears your topper light is not lit.

I agree, sounds about right depending on exact condition of your TZ, might even be a great deal. Recently sold my TZ for a WOZ, no regrets. Others would take the TZ.

Yes I tilted on ball 2 and when I saw the missed bonus of 420,000 I almost cried.