(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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#2551 2 years ago

Got a message from Katie over at JJP yesterday. My WoZRR is about to come off the line and should be ready to ship next week. I'm so very, very excited. I've been waking up every day for the last month thinking "one day closer to my WoZ".

#2552 2 years ago
Quoted from dotEXE:

Got a message from Katie over at JJP yesterday. My WoZRR is about to come off the line and should be ready to ship next week. I'm so very, very excited. I've been waking up every day for the last month thinking "one day closer to my WoZ".

You should be! WOZ is incredible!

#2553 2 years ago

Tricks to hitting throne room shot....

anyone have any?

#2554 2 years ago

I am looking at picking up a WOZ or TH anyone have both that could give me some input.

#2555 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Tricks to hitting throne room shot....
anyone have any?

Yeah, don't have extra ball lit... I swear I hit it all day long but as soon as I want it.... DENIED!

#2556 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

If it's the CPU fan generating most of the noise, that will complicate things. I'm assuming there's not a ton of room to add a larger/quieter cooler (aside from the fact it is in a giant box with lots of space ). Plus, I'd like to be able to read CPU temp so not sure that level of access is easily available. It looks like the fans pull 12v from one pins on the board, but I didn't see a 12v otherwise just looking at the schematic... well, I guess the next step is assess where the noise is coming from

OK, this was easy enough and fairly good news -- the bulk of the fan noise is the fan that pulls air out of the CPU chassis/case, not the CPU fan.

Clearly, that fan is designed to move a lot of air, pulling air in from the front and expelling from the chassis. I think a mod here would be pretty simple: add small fans to help intake, and get a quieter fan to expel the air. Fans optionally could be added to help expel air from the cabinet. Another idea would be to cut a hole in the top of the chassis cover, but I don't like that idea as much as it would need to be protected from falling debris.

#2557 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Didn't hobbit receive its last code update at expo?

WOZ was "complete" at 2.0 or 3.0 as well. TH needs polish. More call-outs, sound effects, BoFA needs serious polish, a final wizard mode needs added (that most will never reach, LOL), lighting effects, etc...

If it's truly done now I'll be pretty disappointed.

#2558 2 years ago

I had an HP PC once that was nearly silent. What they did was use a massive fan that ran at a much lower RPM with a funnel/cone attached to the actual air input it was sucking from that was about half the size of the fan.

I figure that way they probably got a similar volume of air movement from the far lower RPM (thereby quieter) fan.

#2559 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I had an HP PC once that was nearly silent. What they did was use a massive fan that ran at a much lower RPM with a funnel/cone attached to the actual air input it was sucking from that was about half the size of the fan.
I figure that way they probably got a similar volume of air movement from the far lower RPM (thereby quieter) fan.

Yep, the larger fans can move a massive amount of air compared to the smaller ones. In the stern spike systems, there's a tiny 40mm fan in the power supply that moves virtually no air compared to a larger 80-120mm fan. It's incredibly annoying.

I built an enclosed cabinet for all my home theater equipment that also has an xbox, dvr, and lots of other gear in there -- there are about 6 120mm Noctua fans used to draw air in/out. A bit overkill, but the temp stays pretty close to room temp in there with everything on. The best part is, it's virtually silent. Those fans don't move much air relative to other 120mm fans, but if you have the space, why not go big. The WOZ PC case is aluminum, so that would help quite a bit with heat dissipation.

I'll pull the fan when I get some time and see what the specs are.

#2560 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I built an enclosed cabinet for all my home theater equipment that also has an xbox, dvr, and lots of other gear in there -- there are about 6 120mm Noctua fans used to draw air in/out. A bit overkill, but the temp stays pretty close to room temp in there with everything on. The best part is, it's virtually silent. Those fans don't move much air relative to other 120mm fans, but if you have the space, why not go big. The WOZ PC case is aluminum, so that would help quite a bit with heat dissipation.
I'll pull the fan when I get some time and see what the specs are.

Thanks! Those look like nice fans, Just picked one up anlong with a PWM controller for my theatre cabinet. I think one should cover it for my needs as the spec says those fans will move up to 10 CFM.

#2561 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Yep, the larger fans can move a massive amount of air compared to the smaller ones. In the stern spike systems, there's a tiny 40mm fan in the power supply that moves virtually no air compared to a larger 80-120mm fan. It's incredibly annoying.
I built an enclosed cabinet for all my home theater equipment that also has an xbox, dvr, and lots of other gear in there -- there are about 6 120mm Noctua fans used to draw air in/out. A bit overkill, but the temp stays pretty close to room temp in there with everything on. The best part is, it's virtually silent. Those fans don't move much air relative to other 120mm fans, but if you have the space, why not go big. The WOZ PC case is aluminum, so that would help quite a bit with heat dissipation.
I'll pull the fan when I get some time and see what the specs are.

Do post the specs of the exhaust fan on the main aluminium housing.

I've been putting off replacing mine. It's an absolute screamer.

Given the amount it varies in speed, I'm assuming it's PWM controlled by the PC or a thermometer.

#2562 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Apply a little self adhesive felt to the lock-down bar where it rubs the powdercoat.
Powdercoated side-rails are relatively new to pinball and all of them need a little padding there.
I see wear there periodically.

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I will redo the little bit I already did. I started doing this as a "temporary" measure in a couple spots when I noticed what was happening, but perhaps I should cover the whole area where any powedercoat contact is possible. Still working on getting the lockdown bar to not "wiggle" and yet be able to lock in place. It seems that if I get it solid so it won't wiggle, it doesn't latch properly and/or starts to bend the latch bar underneath. If I loosen it a bit so that it does latch properly, then it wiggles. Frustrating. Also still working on getting the alignment right - lockdown bar is still too far to the right (need to shift mechanism to left) and toward the player (no idea how to handle that one?).

I wonder too if I could use some more of that foam material they place on the underside of the lockdown bar. Does anyone know where to get that? Part of mine did not seem applied quite right, and I also wonder if a little better coverage might help this issue as well.

#2563 2 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Do post the specs of the exhaust fan on the main aluminium housing.
I've been putting off replacing mine. It's an absolute screamer.
Given the amount it varies in speed, I'm assuming it's PWM controlled by the PC or a thermometer.

Interesting -- I hadn't noticed it changing speed at all -- but then, I've only had the machine a week and in pretty low temps all things considered.

#2564 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Tricks to hitting throne room shot....
anyone have any?

Yes. Aim for the right orbit. Whenever I do, I hit the throne room.

#2565 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Woot! You won't regret it.
I think I'm officially out of my honeymoon period (lasted longer than any other pin) as I can now go for a day or two without craving a game.
Still though, this game does not get old for me. Coming back to play is still just as enjoyable, challenging and exciting as ever. I can say with confidence that it has secured permanent place in my home.

Quoted from Pimp77:

At this point (Hobbit not complete yet), I'd say WOZ is better than TH...we'll see after TH gets polished up though.

I have been trying for 3-6 months. I don't want to spend the cash but i would trade my beautiful TZ plus cash if i can find the deal. I was close 2 weeks ago.

#2566 2 years ago

I think you'll find it... the right deal takes time. I would love a TZ domeday, but wouldn't give up WOZ for one.

#2567 2 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I will redo the little bit I already did. I started doing this as a "temporary" measure in a couple spots when I noticed what was happening, but perhaps I should cover the whole area where any powedercoat contact is possible. Still working on getting the lockdown bar to not "wiggle" and yet be able to lock in place. It seems that if I get it solid so it won't wiggle, it doesn't latch properly and/or starts to bend the latch bar underneath. If I loosen it a bit so that it does latch properly, then it wiggles. Frustrating. Also still working on getting the alignment right - lockdown bar is still too far to the right (need to shift mechanism to left) and toward the player (no idea how to handle that one?).
I wonder too if I could use some more of that foam material they place on the underside of the lockdown bar. Does anyone know where to get that? Part of mine did not seem applied quite right, and I also wonder if a little better coverage might help this issue as well.

The lock-down bar insulation is just regular foam weatherstrip that you get at Lowes or Home Depot.

If the lock-down bar is still too loose after adjusting the brass screws, you might have to raise or lower the inside lock-down bar receiver.

Its not too bad, and has 3 or 4 wood screws holding it on from the inside. Loosening the screws will allow for a small adjustment, filling the screw holes with dowels, skewers or toothpicks and relocating the bar 1/8" or so higher is more work but can give perfect results.

Personally I raised my lock-down bar receiver 1/8" so that when the lock-down bar is clamped down it rests 1/16" above the siderails and doesnt touch them at all. I filled the 1/16" gap above the siderails with self stick felt applied to the underside of the lock-down bar.

An assortment of self stick felt is available at Wal-Mart, I chose the black 1/16" thick.

#2568 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Personally I raised my lock-down bar receiver 1/8" so that when the lock-down bar is clamped down it rests 1/16" above the siderails and doesnt touch them at all. I filled the 1/16" gap above the siderails with self stick felt applied to the underside of the lock-down bar.

Now thats an interesting idea. I've been so preoccupied about clamping it down hard so that it doesn't wiggle (left/right, forwards/backwards) when leaning on it. If mine isn't clamped down really hard against the cabinet/glass/rails, it actually seems to wiggle around really easily. How would I adjust that then?

#2569 2 years ago

I had a question about this $150 playfield protector JJP sells.
Is it needed? Recommended? This is a HUO WoZ I'll be getting. I was just reading the GB thread and while I definitely understand that GB is an entirely different issue altogether, it got me spooked.

Added over 3 years ago: Addendum: My post has some bad phrasing. I'm getting a NIB WoZ. It will always be HUO though.

#2570 2 years ago

I'm kind of curious about those as well. HUO I don't think it would make a huge difference but if it doesn't impact gameplay and looks good why not.

I guess my biggest concerns would be about dirt getting under it and how they hold up long term.

#2571 2 years ago

My WOZ came with one as previous owner had specified it but I removed it. Looks so much nicer without. Too much dirt build up. Even got some flies under it.
There are some free mylar kits from JJP that protect areas likely to wear. Also cliffy protectors are a must for rainbow target area and some of the kick outs.

#2572 2 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

Now thats an interesting idea. I've been so preoccupied about clamping it down hard so that it doesn't wiggle (left/right, forwards/backwards) when leaning on it. If mine isn't clamped down really hard against the cabinet/glass/rails, it actually seems to wiggle around really easily. How would I adjust that then?

Mine clamps down tightly, I have to press down on the center of the lock-down bar to get the release handle to move.
It tightly fits against the siderails with self-stick felt protecting them.
This was achieved from several adjustments to the brass screws and a final adjustment of the lock-down receiver.
It doesnt budge during game play.

My TH however is still loose a little bit, I havent put the time into it yet. But ultimately it will be as snug as my WOZ.

#2573 2 years ago

I wouldn't worry about the play field protector... just call JJP and buy the mylar kit (which I believe is free for original owners?). It was easy to install

#2574 2 years ago
Quoted from sillyoldelf:

Also cliffy protectors are a must for rainbow target area and some of the kick outs.

I've seen this said a few times -- is the ball getting air born and dinging the upper playfield? Just curious "why" -- haven't seen anything there yet.

Quoted from 27dnast:

I wouldn't worry about the play field protector... just call JJP and buy the mylar kit (which I believe is free for original owners?). It was easy to install

Agree. Without a playfield protector, the field will get dimples. But, for HUO, no big deal IMHO, and maybe it's my imagination but it does feel different/worse playing with one on the game. I don't like playfield imperfections, but have just grown to accept that a playfield will wear over time. Regular cleaning, period new balls ... not really worth sweating it.

#2575 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I've seen this said a few times -- is the ball getting air born and dinging the upper playfield? Just curious "why" -- haven't seen anything there yet.

Yes, the ball does get airborne in that area. Usually from a glancing hit to glenda or a missed ramp shot. The edge isn't the big concern but a hard hit on the edge can cause the top layer if the plywood to chip off and thats your upper playfield art/play surface.

#2576 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I've seen this said a few times -- is the ball getting air born and dinging the upper playfield? Just curious "why" -- haven't seen anything there yet.

Of all the cliffy protectors the munchkin edge protector is the best.
I bought the complete set but have only installed this edge protector.
After 2500 plays it really shows huge amounts of chipping and wear without the protector. I have seen 1" chips in the surface near the edge without the steel edge.

Whats needed now is a good plastic protector for over the winkie drop area.
I have had to replace mine due to cracking from ball strikes.

#2577 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Whats needed now is a good plastic protector for over the winkie drop area.
I have had to replace mine due to cracking from ball strikes.

Indypinhead's set he sells here includes a protector for this plastic. It is a PITA to install but I did it at the same time I installed my cliffy's.

#2578 2 years ago
Quoted from dotEXE:

I had a question about this $150 playfield protector JJP sells.
Is it needed? Recommended? This is a HUO WoZ I'll be getting. I was just reading the GB thread and while I definitely understand that GB is an entirely different issue altogether, it got me spooked.
Added yesterday: Addendum: My post has some bad phrasing. I'm getting a NIB WoZ. It will always be HUO though.

I have the playfield protector because I thought woz would be getting some routing but I fell in love and it will be huo. It looks ok. Not perfect. Most places you wouldn't notice. Some places it's not firm to the playfield, so it almost looks like Mylar coming up.

I really don't think it's needed in a true huo setting. But I do like the idea of an easy reboot to perfect playfield sometime in the future. They're easy to cut out with no stripping the playfield.

#2579 2 years ago

They just lay on top right, no adhesive?

#2581 2 years ago

IMO I think they are GREAT for location and for HUO I would suggest that if you get a NIB then get the protector and after a few months or years you remove it altogether to have a fresh play field where everything is broken in and the play field is fully cured. Just a thought, to each his own

#2582 2 years ago

The playfield protector is polycarbonate. Poly scratches and dulls easily... EASILY, wiping poly down with a dry towel will scratch it. However it is almost impenetrable. So it does protect, but will dull from even light play. It will possibly trap dirt underneath. I agree to each his own.

#2583 2 years ago

My Winkie target is down for the count and my game is only 5 weeks old. The target has not popped up for a week, so it's stuck in the down position. There aren't any other errors with the game that are relevant to this issue.

I'm brand new to pin ownership and feel over whelmed since just opening the play field is intimidating. Is there a kind soul out there who can give me specific instructions on what to do?

I've filed a support ticket with JJ, and already got an auto email reply saying they got my support request.

#2584 2 years ago

Here's the fan on my WOZ. It's a Jamicon JF0825S1M, I can't seem to post a direct link to the Jamicon product page, but essentially it's an 80mm (25mm depth), 32CFM, 2500RPM, ~28dBA. 12v, 1.8 watts.

Note: on my WoZ, I have only 2 fans: CPU and this case fan. They must've switched power supplies at some point.

I'm a little surprised because stats wise, I subjectively thought the fan was significantly louder than 28dB, and the rated airflow of 32CFM is decent but not crazy. (In other words, easy to find a replacement.)

I think swapping it with a Noctua or Maglev fan would give very close or equal performance and be much quieter. Looking over the cabinet, there are two rear vent holes that are fairly large -- I think putting some 60mm or possibly 80mm (need to measure) near silent fans there would be good, too, or possibly at the top of the backbox, to help draw air through. Another option is putting fans (again, slow, near silent ones) at the front of the PC cab (inside the case itself, plenty of room) to help pull air into the PC case. Lots of options.

Not sure if I'll do this yet, next step for me is review the 12v lines to see what I can tap into.

wozfan (resized).jpg

#2585 2 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

My Winkie target is down for the count and my game is only 5 weeks old. The target has not popped up for a week, so it's stuck in the down position. There aren't any other errors with the game that are relevant to this issue.
I'm brand new to pin ownership and feel over whelmed since just opening the play field is intimidating. Is there a kind soul out there who can give me specific instructions on what to do?
I've filed a support ticket with JJ, and already got an auto email reply saying they got my support request.

Go into switch test mode and see if the switch for the Winkie is registering. Mine came loose. It is easy to fix if so. When the target is down, it presses on a switch so the game knows it is down. If it is not making good contact, the game will not think it is down and will not reset. Push the switch up and tighten the screw securing it in place so good contact is made.

If the switch is registering, go into coil test mode and see if the coil fires.

#2586 2 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

My Winkie target is down for the count and my game is only 5 weeks old. The target has not popped up for a week, so it's stuck in the down position. There aren't any other errors with the game that are relevant to this issue.
I'm brand new to pin ownership and feel over whelmed since just opening the play field is intimidating. Is there a kind soul out there who can give me specific instructions on what to do?
I've filed a support ticket with JJ, and already got an auto email reply saying they got my support request.

This one is probably easy, happened on mine. There's a switch on the bottom of the target that detects whether the winkie is up or down. When down, a little tab on the target presses down on the switch. Most likely, you'll just need to bend switch leaf up a bit so the target pushes on it a bit more. Alternatively, it could be a bad switch or wire worked loose. Go into the test for coils, and find the winkie target reset (up) test, and see if that resets it.

The very first time you open a playfield is pretty intimidating, but it's easy and, get used to it. Despite having a little flap to protect the balls in the trough, remove them. I wonder if there's a video of lifting the playfield as that's the easiest place to start? Try to keep the playfield straight as it's easy for things to catch on the sides...

#2587 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Here's the fan on my WOZ. It's a Jamicon JF0825S1M, I can't seem to post a direct link to the Jamicon product page, but essentially it's an 80mm (25mm depth), 32CFM, 2500RPM, ~28dBA. 12v, 1.8 watts.
Note: on my WoZ, I have only 2 fans: CPU and this case fan. They must've switched power supplies at some point.
I'm a little surprised because stats wise, I subjectively thought the fan was significantly louder than 28dB, and the rated airflow of 32CFM is decent but not crazy. (In other words, easy to find a replacement.)
I think swapping it with a Noctua or Maglev fan would give very close or equal performance and be much quieter. Looking over the cabinet, there are two rear vent holes that are fairly large -- I think putting some 60mm or possibly 80mm (need to measure) near silent fans there would be good, too, or possibly at the top of the backbox, to help draw air through. Another option is putting fans (again, slow, near silent ones) at the front of the PC cab (inside the case itself, plenty of room) to help pull air into the PC case. Lots of options.
Not sure if I'll do this yet, next step for me is review the 12v lines to see what I can tap into.

Thanks. As expected then ... 80mm 12V ... but what is feeding it and is it PWM or just a straight 12V supply?

Also, LOL at that 28dBA rating ... I can hear it fairly loudly from another room 7m away, with the pf down and glass on.

If you want to spend serious money, then get a Sanyo Denki, but otherwise Noctua or Scythe Gentle Typhoon (if they do them in 80mm) are more than good enough.

#2588 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

The playfield protector is polycarbonate. Poly scratches and dulls easily... EASILY, wiping poly down with a dry towel will scratch it. However it is almost impenetrable. So it does protect, but will dull from even light play. It will possibly trap dirt underneath. I agree to each his own.

Better than having the clear coat and artwork chip off over time

No guaranty the chipping will just stop where people have already seen it

#2589 2 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

My Winkie target is down for the count and my game is only 5 weeks old. The target has not popped up for a week, so it's stuck in the down position. There aren't any other errors with the game that are relevant to this issue.
I'm brand new to pin ownership and feel over whelmed since just opening the play field is intimidating. Is there a kind soul out there who can give me specific instructions on what to do?
I've filed a support ticket with JJ, and already got an auto email reply saying they got my support request.

Just to add to others comments since this is your first pin. Until you're very comfortable (and even then), always have the power off. If the game is powered up at least leave the coin door open so that the coil power is disabled (unless you are specifically testing coils).

Also once you have it up spend some time studying all of the components... look at the front then find the under side of the components. The drop target can be manually reset and dropped, study how it moves, latches, activates, etc. In no time you will be very comfortable with everything. Everything individually is really basic, its just intimidating because there are so many things.

#2590 2 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

My Winkie target is down for the count and my game is only 5 weeks old. The target has not popped up for a week, so it's stuck in the down position. There aren't any other errors with the game that are relevant to this issue.
I'm brand new to pin ownership and feel over whelmed since just opening the play field is intimidating. Is there a kind soul out there who can give me specific instructions on what to do?
I've filed a support ticket with JJ, and already got an auto email reply saying they got my support request.

Check that the wires are still plugged onto the coil that fires the drop target.

Check that the attachment screws that hold the switch on, are still there and snug but not super tight. Overtightening the screws will cause the internal mechanism of the little switch to bind.

Manually actuate the drop target and listen for the click of the switch, up and down. Or manually actuate the switch and listen for its click sound to get a feel for it.

A properly adjusted switch will click just before the metal plunger hits the stop and doesnt bend the arm of the switch to much.
Adjust the stop as neccessary.

If the screws have fallen out they are 2/56 screws by about 5/8" I think.

If the screws are missing, check inside the cabinet with a magnet and you will find them.
Also look for anything else that might be loose under the playfield and tighten as neccessary.

Any loose wood screws you find should be backed out and re-inserted with titebond glue on the threads.
Any loose machine screws should be glued in with blue loctite, NOT RED.

The switch should have 2 screws in it. It will work with only one but it will rotate once in awhile and lose contact with the plastic actuator on the drop target itself.
The whole switch assembly is made so that you can move the switch a little to get it to work just right.

#2591 2 years ago

I lost one of those little switch screws. Had to order one for 10 cents over the internet and pay $6 in shipping.

#2592 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I lost one of those little switch screws. Had to order one for 10 cents over the internet and pay $6 in shipping.

get screws here:

https://www.fmwfasteners.com/products/2-56-x-5-8-phillips-pan-machine-screw-18-8-ss?gclid=CICQyq-hgdACFQuraQodMqoE5g

Check the length in the manual and maybe get a couple sizes for ramp witches and whatever....
Also a good source for regular #8 x 1/2" or 5/8" slotted hex sheet metal screws and what ever you might need in stainless steel.

I dont think they have the unslotted screws for the factory look.

#2593 2 years ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Thanks. As expected then ... 80mm 12V ... but what is feeding it and is it PWM or just a straight 12V supply?
Also, LOL at that 28dBA rating ... I can hear it fairly loudly from another room 7m away, with the pf down and glass on.
If you want to spend serious money, then get a Sanyo Denki, but otherwise Noctua or Scythe Gentle Typhoon (if they do them in 80mm) are more than good enough.

Looking at the schematics it appears to be 12v shared with a number of other components, no speed variability. The fan noise is consistent on my machine even at startup. Honestly, I'm glad it is at least consistent, the variability of my stern made it more annoying.

#2594 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

get screws here:
https://www.fmwfasteners.com/products/2-56-x-5-8-phillips-pan-machine-screw-18-8-ss?gclid=CICQyq-hgdACFQuraQodMqoE5g
Check the length in the manual and maybe get a couple sizes for ramp witches and whatever....
Also a good source for regular #8 x 1/2" or 5/8" slotted hex sheet metal screws and what ever you might need in stainless steel.
I dont think they have the unslotted screws for the factory look.

Thanks. I'll check out their prices next time. However, hopefully the times I need that really really really tiny screw are few and far between.

#2595 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Looking at the schematics it appears to be 12v shared with a number of other components, no speed variability. The fan noise is consistent on my machine even at startup. Honestly, I'm glad it is at least consistent, the variability of my stern made it more annoying.

It might have an onboard speed governor ... thinking about it, that's probably what it is at least in my case. It spools up, then likely overshoots and decelerates, then accelerates again. Does it from start up when the machine is cold, so I guess it's probably not being controlled by PWM via the PC.

I hope you have small hands ... fishing around in the mass of wiring in the limited space by the side of the cabinet (where the exhaust fan is) and having large hands is why I've continually put off doing it.

Thanks for posting.

When I eventually do it, I'll post the results.

#2596 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Here's the fan on my WOZ. It's a Jamicon JF0825S1M, I can't seem to post a direct link to the Jamicon product page, but essentially it's an 80mm (25mm depth), 32CFM, 2500RPM, ~28dBA. 12v, 1.8 watts.
Note: on my WoZ, I have only 2 fans: CPU and this case fan. They must've switched power supplies at some point.
I'm a little surprised because stats wise, I subjectively thought the fan was significantly louder than 28dB, and the rated airflow of 32CFM is decent but not crazy. (In other words, easy to find a replacement.)
I think swapping it with a Noctua or Maglev fan would give very close or equal performance and be much quieter. Looking over the cabinet, there are two rear vent holes that are fairly large -- I think putting some 60mm or possibly 80mm (need to measure) near silent fans there would be good, too, or possibly at the top of the backbox, to help draw air through. Another option is putting fans (again, slow, near silent ones) at the front of the PC cab (inside the case itself, plenty of room) to help pull air into the PC case. Lots of options.
Not sure if I'll do this yet, next step for me is review the 12v lines to see what I can tap into.

Some quiet 80mm fans I use once in awhile:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W04PJ9641&cm_re=quiet_80mm_fan-_-35-186-074-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V3803646&cm_re=quiet_80mm_fan-_-9SIA85V3803646-_-Product

#2597 2 years ago

Witch Melting Tips?

I just got my best score, first time over a million. But, I am sad because the witch got away, again. What are some strategies? Any tips?

#2598 2 years ago

Ok, I've owned the game for over two years. Two weeks ago I readjusted my game back to factory settings. A couple fresh rubbers and widened the outlanes. She is a ball buster, I had got used to putting up some large scores with my house conditions. I've gotten one score over a million and it feels like a major accomplishment. Love this game.

IMG_0066 (resized).JPG

#2599 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

Witch Melting Tips?
I just got my best score, first time over a million. But, I am sad because the witch got away, again. What are some strategies? Any tips?

Don't know any good strategies except hit the white targets. Although, I melted the bitch in back to back games the other day! I seem to go for the throne hole and crystal ball shots ASAP while ball saver is stull in play. Then, focus on the other shots. Once the drop is down, it's a pretty easy shot with either flipper. Then it's all about ball control and setting up the final shot.

#2600 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Don't know any good strategies except hit the white targets. Although, I melted the bitch in back to back games the other day! I seem to go for the throne hole and crystal ball shots ASAP while ball saver is stull in play. Then, focus on the other shots. Once the drop is down, it's a pretty easy shot with either flipper. Then it's all about ball control and setting up the final shot.

I'm not sure how many shots I need to make before loading the castle VUK. I'm always a little panicked wondering what to do next. Lol

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