(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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#2501 2 years ago

You need to find out which board is bad or which connector isn't connected. The boards are daisy chained together so your problem is the first bad board or connection - everything downwind of the bad board will be out as well. I like to go into "sound test" and "repeat". This lights up the board and you have music you can dance to while you fix it. Raise the playfied and it's relatively easy to figure out - the boards are numbered and cables have a "from" and "to". There's a diagram on the big silver box under the playfield that might be helpful.

I tried to reach JJP parts all day Friday and no one answered. Also no answer on my service ticket. Maybe everyone is tied up with the JJP#3 stuff for now.

#2502 2 years ago
Quoted from Farmboss:

I have half of my rainbow lights out and the first T and last O of TOTO out. Does this seem more like a light board issue or a connection issue ? I have an early game.

See post #66:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only?tu=dcfan

Start with the right slingshot light board and check connectors/connections from board 21 through 26 to see if the TOTO lights can be resolved.
I believe the game needs to be off when disconnecting and connecting light boards.

#2503 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Gorf, please call JJP when you have a chance. I think we have all experienced the inefficiency of their online ticket system, it seems to eat issues and you will never hear back. You will get immediate and through service by calling and speaking with them over the phone.
Shippers are not kind to these games. They get slammed, bumped, droped and vibrated for hours on end on their way to you. Some issues as a result of that are normal and JJP does a wonderful job of getting it all sorted out... when you call.
FYI: i sometimes experience the same thing with my castle door, but it takes a good solid hit. If it were happening frequently i would turn down the power to that flipper.
Also some audio tearing does happen. I think it was worse in earlier versions of the software... but what your describing sounds different than simple audio tearing?

Thanks for the recommendation to call JJ. Their IT did reply back right away to all 3 support tickets. I then replied back stating that I'm a "newb" at this and don't understand their instructions for repairing my game. NOTE: then (maybe their head IT guy) replied back this past Monday with a phone call, which is what I requested, which was the day after the Chicago pinball conference. I was very impressed I heard from someone so soon after their biggest con of the year! I will return his call today, since I'm now back in town.

#2504 2 years ago

WoZ is my first pin purchase, so is there a video on how to change WoZ rubbers/rings? I have about 40-50 new colors to put on, and I want to include before/after pics, because you all were very helpful! Maybe I can also help someone else out who wants to add some color to their game too.

#2505 2 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

WoZ is my first pin purchase, so is there a video on how to change WoZ rubbers/rings? I have about 40-50 new colors to put on, and I want to include before/after pics, because you all were very helpful! Maybe I can also help someone else out who wants to add some color to their game too.

Some of the rubber is very easy to replace.
Others require removing assembles. Be patient and take your time.

Use new tools: Klein long magnetic nut drivers and screw drivers are worth every penny.
Get a small magnetic bowl to put small parts in and stick it to the lock-down bar receiver.
Get a small flexible magnetic retrieval tool to save hours of work getting dropped screws or washers.
Place a terrycloth shop rag or towel on the playfield area you are working on in case of a dropped tool or small part.
Be methodical. Work in sections. There is no quick way to do this.
Clean and wax uncovered areas when you get to them, your playfield will thank you later.

Take pictures and note the size of the rubber you removed, its molded into each ring. Use the exact replacement size when replacing.
If in doubt refer to the manual.

#2506 2 years ago

Nice explanation

#2507 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Some of the rubber is very easy to replace.
Others require removing assembles. Be patient and take your time.
Use new tools: Klein long magnetic nut drivers and screw drivers are worth every penny.
Get a small magnetic bowl to put small parts in and stick it to the lock-down bar receiver.
Get a small flexible magnetic retrieval tool to save hours of work getting dropped screws or washers.
Place a terrycloth shop rag or towel on the playfield area you are working on in case of a dropped tool or small part.
Be methodical. Work in sections. There is no quick way to do this.
Clean and wax uncovered areas when you get to them, your playfield will thank you later.
Take pictures and note the size of the rubber you removed, its molded into each ring. Use the exact replacement size when replacing.
If in doubt refer to the manual.

wish I would have read this 4 years ago =)

#2508 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Some of the rubber is very easy to replace.
Others require removing assembles. Be patient and take your time.
Use new tools: Klein long magnetic nut drivers and screw drivers are worth every penny.
Get a small magnetic bowl to put small parts in and stick it to the lock-down bar receiver.
Get a small flexible magnetic retrieval tool to save hours of work getting dropped screws or washers.
Place a terrycloth shop rag or towel on the playfield area you are working on in case of a dropped tool or small part.
Be methodical. Work in sections. There is no quick way to do this.
Clean and wax uncovered areas when you get to them, your playfield will thank you later.
Take pictures and note the size of the rubber you removed, its molded into each ring. Use the exact replacement size when replacing.
If in doubt refer to the manual.

Thank you for the great advice and I will have to see who sells a magnetic bowl. I have most of the other parts you mentioned including the magnetic retrieval tool. I don't have the Klein magnetic nut drivers, but a non-magnetic long driver set from Titan Pinball that's very good quality but inexpensive. I did get a clip (with foam on the clips) on LED light from Lowes for $20, and I do use a brand new terrycloth towel every time I clean the glass or do any other work. You can get a pack of 50 towels on Amazon for $25, so towels for the playfield are easy.

The rubbers all came from https://www.titanpinball.com. I've been so very impressed with how the owner, Eric, has been very patient and helpful with my orders. The service couldn't be any better.

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#2509 2 years ago

I've owned my game now for 1 month ( my first pin purchase), and just had my most exciting game. It's lasted for an hour and my score was 3,833,622.

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#2510 2 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

I've owned my game now for 1 month ( my first pin purchase), and just had my most exciting game. It's lasted for an hour and my score was 3,833,622.

Wow! Please tell me you are playing on 5 balls.

#2511 2 years ago

Joined the club yesterday.

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#2512 2 years ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

Joined the club yesterday.

Congrats! Without the topper and with that low ceiling, the game has an interesting halo over it. . Nice TZ too!

#2513 2 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

Thank you for the great advice and I will have to see who sells a magnetic bowl. I have most of the other parts you mentioned including the magnetic retrieval tool. I don't have the Klein magnetic nut drivers, but a non-magnetic long driver set from Titan Pinball that's very good quality but inexpensive. I did get a clip (with foam on the clips) on LED light from Lowes for $20, and I do use a brand new terrycloth towel every time I clean the glass or do any other work. You can get a pack of 50 towels on Amazon for $25, so towels for the playfield are easy.
The rubbers all came from https://www.titanpinball.com. I've been so very impressed with how the owner, Eric, has been very patient and helpful with my orders. The service couldn't be any better.

In your first picture, it looks like your slingshot rubbers are not mounted low enough on the flipper side.

#2514 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Congrats! Without the topper and with that low ceiling, the game has an interesting halo over it. . Nice TZ too!

Hmmm. I don't have the topper, and I don't think I have a glow like that. Is there a setting to turn the topper on and off?

#2515 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hmmm. I don't have the topper, and I don't think I have a glow like that. Is there a setting to turn the topper on and off?

There is a topper brightness setting but more likely the LED strip was removed or disconnected or burnt out.

#2516 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

There is a topper brightness setting but more likely the LED strip was removed or disconnected or burnt out.

Actually, I was able to get up there and have a look (had to move another of my pins to do it). The LED strip works but shines backwards and not up. I never tried to put the topper on since I don't have the space. Maybe I have to move a bracket or something. Anyway, it is kind of irrelevant unless I find a way to drop my floors or raise my ceiling by 6".

#2517 2 years ago

Since I couldn't find a side by side comparison of the State Fair Balloon mod before and after, I decided to make one. Overall I'm VERY happy with this mod. Super easy to install and it looks great.

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#2518 2 years ago

New owner of a 75 WOZ - manufacture date of 9-12-16. Are all 75th WOZs signed by Jack?

#2519 2 years ago
Quoted from twindad:

New owner of a 75 WOZ - manufacture date of 9-12-16. Are all 75th WOZs signed by Jack?

Congrats! Mine is signed on the back.

#2520 2 years ago
Quoted from twindad:

New owner of a 75 WOZ - manufacture date of 9-12-16. Are all 75th WOZs signed by Jack?

Awesome and welcome to the club!

I'm not certain if they all are but I know many are. My ECLE was signed on the backglass. The impression I get is that Jack's willing to sign just about anything so if you really want it signed and its not already, just bring your backglass with you to the next big pinball show and catch him there. I imagine he will be at as many as he can this year demoing the new game.

#2521 2 years ago

Thanks. Looking forward to the community. It is our first pin at home although the whole family plays as much as possible whenever possible. Game is gorgeous and well built. Anything to share on mods, tips and such? I ordered the housing, shooter and cup to match the 75th paint and the 2 piece witch well. Haven't installed any of it until the weekend.

#2522 2 years ago

For me the best mod by far is the lit winkie target (sold here on pinside market not online), followed closely by adding a light under the state fair ballon.

#2523 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

For me the best mod by far is the lit winkie target (sold here on pinside market not online), followed closely by adding a light under the state fair ballon.

I really like the 3D molded castle walls and witch's well mod. The original castle walls and witch's clear tube look cheap.

#2524 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Wow! Please tell me you are playing on 5 balls.

I am playing 5 balls, but my score was over 3 million with 3 balls. I guess I um "choked" on the last two.

#2525 2 years ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

Joined the club yesterday.

Congrats! It quite an awesome club!

#2526 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

In your first picture, it looks like your slingshot rubbers are not mounted low enough on the flipper side.

Thanks for the suggestion. I did find a flipper rubber that was to high! I also stretched one sling shot rubber because it kept bumping after the pinball would leave.

#2527 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

I've had woz about a year, and I still don't have a good way to make the Horse of a different colour shot...
Any tips? Right flipper or left?

I can hit it consistently doing a backhand shot off the right flipper.

Edit- just realized how delayed my post is. My apologies.

#2528 2 years ago

Howdy-

Got & installed Indy Pinhead's lit Winkie mod. Nice little mod. I find this game to already be overload, way too busy, way too crowded, an over-the-top tour de force, so I'm not inclined to mod it, but this mod is so functionally important to knowing if the drop target is up, so I went for it.

I put in a slightly dimmer LED, then, after playing, I also angled the LED away a little to turn down the brightness a little more.

---

A warning when replacing the drop target!

Short story: make sure your drop target switch registers solid closed when the target is down!

Long story:

After installing the mod, after playing several minutes, I got stuck in ball search, with a monkey ball up behind the single castle door.
I had blown fuse F703. Hmm, the upstream fuse before 3 downstream fuses, 1 of which controls the Drop Target Retract. Coincidence? Probably not!

I replaced the fuse. All coils worked fine in the test menu.

Played a few minutes, got stuck again.
This time fuse F710 had blown. This controls Drop Target Retract, Castle Doors VUK, Castle Double Doors, House Wall Drop.

Main suspect *definitely* Drop Target Retract!

I went into the switch test menus.
It turned out that the Winkie Guard Drop Target switch (#73), indicating drop target down would close only briefly during its drop & then return to an open switch condition. It was juuuust borderline aaalmost adjusted correctly. I'm not sure if I'd bent something a little bit or if the new target didn't push on the switch lever arm exactly as the stock target did, or if some other factor was present. So, I bent the switch control arm to get really solid & consistent behavior.

Apparently, while I'd been playing, the game had put the drop target down but didn't know the drop target was down, so it must have been really jamming on that poor little Drop Target Retract coil to really really really try to drop that target!

All better now. Played many games with no problems.

---

On another note, in both the Indy & Mezel products, it's difficult to see the art relief in the clear target. I bet that a simple black vinyl CNC-cut sticker on the target face would show a really nice silhouette.
Or, maybe even a normal full rectangular art sticker printed on thinner paper--would that bleed light?
Or a full rectangular sticker printed with some clear portions on the art.

Another simple idea: a plain small rectangular sticker (or paint/vinyl/sheet metal?) "hat" on top of the target to block light bleeding through the top face when it is down. I really like the glow of the target face when the target is up, but I'd rather have the target light be hidden or muted when the target is down. I think it would be more eye-catching if it glowed when up but was muted when down.

Thanks,
-Jason

#2529 2 years ago

So I have his mod too (great mod by the way), but I'm confused about your fuse condition with the switch compared to what I just went through - was I just lucky here?

Before I got it, My whole target was out of commission. What happened was the coil melted down in a strange turn of events. While there was a multiball going, I dropped the Winkie, got into the hole, ball got kicked up, and Winkie tried to pop back up, wedging one of the other balls in-between it and the plastic just over it. This pretty much lasted for the rest of the multiball, with the Winkie pinning the ball there, trying to get into the up position. Then the ball search kicked in, the Winkie let go, and out came the ball for the rest of the game. Lo and behold, poor Winkie was down for the count and never came back up. The coil sleeve was sufficiently melted that I myself could just barely with all my effort shove the rod through.

So- Since the WoZ had a whole two weeks on it, JJP was kind enough to replace the whole target. in the meantime however, I wanted to still play it a bit, and I discovered I could with a trick - I could keep Winkie dropped, and physically disconnect the microswitch so that it was not attached.. therefore it would always register open, as if the target was always up, even though it would always be down.

So, what is the difference now between your scenario and mine? How did I not blow fuses too if mine was "perpetually up"?

By the way, this coil meltdown because of a pinned ball was after the second or third time it has pinned a ball in multiball. Am I just that unlucky with that? I am surprised that the code would allow the coil to keep trying like that until it melts.. serious flaw i think.

Quoted from jasonbar:

Howdy-
Got & installed Indy Pinhead's lit Winkie mod. Nice little mod. I find this game to already be overload, way too busy, way too crowded, an over-the-top tour de force, so I'm not inclined to mod it, but this mod is so functionally important to knowing if the drop target is up, so I went for it.
I put in a slightly dimmer LED, then, after playing, I also angled the LED away a little to turn down the brightness a little more.
---
A warning when replacing the drop target!
Short story: make sure your drop target switch registers solid closed when the target is down!
Long story:
After installing the mod, after playing several minutes, I got stuck in ball search, with a monkey ball up behind the single castle door.
I had blown fuse F703. Hmm, the upstream fuse before 3 downstream fuses, 1 of which controls the Drop Target Retract. Coincidence? Probably not!
I replaced the fuse. All coils worked fine in the test menu.
Played a few minutes, got stuck again.
This time fuse F710 had blown. This controls Drop Target Retract, Castle Doors VUK, Castle Double Doors, House Wall Drop.
Main suspect *definitely* Drop Target Retract!
I went into the switch test menus.
It turned out that the Winkie Guard Drop Target switch (#73), indicating drop target down would close only briefly during its drop & then return to an open switch condition. It was juuuust borderline aaalmost adjusted correctly. I'm not sure if I'd bent something a little bit or if the new target didn't push on the switch lever arm exactly as the stock target did, or if some other factor was present. So, I bent the switch control arm to get really solid & consistent behavior.
Apparently, while I'd been playing, the game had put the drop target down but didn't know the drop target was down, so it must have been really jamming on that poor little Drop Target Retract coil to really really really try to drop that target!
All better now. Played many games with no problems.
---
On another note, in both the Indy & Mezel products, it's difficult to see the art relief in the clear target. I bet that a simple black vinyl CNC-cut sticker on the target face would show a really nice silhouette.
Or, maybe even a normal full rectangular art sticker printed on thinner paper--would that bleed light?
Or a full rectangular sticker printed with some clear portions on the art.
Another simple idea: a plain small rectangular sticker (or paint/vinyl/sheet metal?) "hat" on top of the target to block light bleeding through the top face when it is down. I really like the glow of the target face when the target is up, but I'd rather have the target light be hidden or muted when the target is down. I think it would be more eye-catching if it glowed when up but was muted when down.
Thanks,
-Jason

#2530 2 years ago

Try adjusting the winki down position so its a little higher. I would at first have balls settle on top of the winki target but after adjusting it have never had that happen again. It's adjusted by a screw at the bottom of the assembly.

#2531 2 years ago

The ball getting wedged while the Winkie tried to reset to the up position seemingly had nothing to do with Winkie resting height. No ball had ever even stopped there on its own. It is as even as it gets but not truly flat it seems - it appears that the target is taller in the back than the front by just a couple hairs - at least relative to the playfield.

Quoted from merccat:

Try adjusting the winki down position so its a little higher. I would at first have balls settle on top of the winki target but after adjusting it have never had that happen again. It's adjusted by a screw at the bottom of the assembly.

#2532 2 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

Thanks for the suggestion. I did find a flipper rubber that was to high! I also stretched one sling shot rubber because it kept bumping after the pinball would leave.

It is not the rubber that is the problem when it is constantly bumping the slingshot. You need to adjust the gap on the slingshot switches.

#2533 2 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

The ball getting wedged while the Winkie tried to reset to the up position seemingly had nothing to do with Winkie resting height. No ball had ever even stopped there on its own. It is as even as it gets but not truly flat it seems - it appears that the target is taller in the back than the front by just a couple hairs - at least relative to the playfield.

Huh, I'll have to try that with the glass off. It seems strange though since that coils is set for a momentary pulse regardless of switch position that it would hold on. I could see it rapid firing but there should be enough time for the ball to escape between pulses. If it can be replicated under controlled circumstances sounds like a good bug to report.

#2534 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Huh, I'll have to try that with the glass off. It seems strange though since that coils is set for a momentary pulse regardless of switch position that it would hold on. I could see it rapid firing but there should be enough time for the ball to escape between pulses. If it can be replicated under controlled circumstances sounds like a good bug to report.

Yeah, this was my question to Frank at JJP when he just wanted to replace the entire target assembly - "isn't it possible this will just happen again in the future?". His reply was that they have so many machines out there and they just don't get this kind of report.. my take on it was that he didnt think this was a "normal" thing to happen and unlikely that it would happen again. (my interpretation anyway). I do still feel slightly concerned obviously, because it certainly did happen, even the first time I recall that smoldering coil smell coming from the cab after the game was over - but *they* didn't seem so concerned (from lack of reports perhaps?)

*Edit* - Possibly Victor instead of Frank, I was working with both of them at the time and I'm not sure which of them (or both) actually said this part of it

#2535 2 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

Yeah, this was my question to Frank at JJP when he just wanted to replace the entire target assembly - "isn't it possible this will just happen again in the future?". His reply was that they have so many machines out there and they just don't get this kind of report.. my take on it was that he didnt think this was a "normal" thing to happen and unlikely that it would happen again. (my interpretation anyway). I do still feel slightly concerned obviously, because it certainly did happen, even the first time I recall that smoldering coil smell coming from the cab after the game was over - but *they* didn't seem so concerned (from lack of reports perhaps?)

Without a thorough examination of your broken part, its impossible to say what went wrong.
From a warranty point of view, if replacing the assembly solved the problem, then everything worked out and all is good in the world.
I imagine that JJP has listed this occurrence and will have more info on this down the road if it ever comes up again.
JJP isnt too concerned as they have agreed to fix anything that goes wrong during the warranty period.
With that in mind, enjoy your game and let JJP fret over it, thats what warranties are for.

#2536 2 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

Yeah, this was my question to Frank at JJP when he just wanted to replace the entire target assembly - "isn't it possible this will just happen again in the future?". His reply was that they have so many machines out there and they just don't get this kind of report.. my take on it was that he didnt think this was a "normal" thing to happen and unlikely that it would happen again. (my interpretation anyway). I do still feel slightly concerned obviously, because it certainly did happen, even the first time I recall that smoldering coil smell coming from the cab after the game was over - but *they* didn't seem so concerned (from lack of reports perhaps?)
*Edit* - Possibly Victor instead of Frank, I was working with both of them at the time and I'm not sure which of them (or both) actually said this part of it

This sounds like potentially like a rare misassembly drop mech from the factory. It could be some stress happened that made the coil jam, but perhaps it was rapidly trying to fire, and not enough to blow the fuse? Anyway - I agree with others here, that a warranty replace the whole thing will be the best thing for you and JJP. Its perhaps the only one to malfunction, and you get back up and running (I wouldn't be concerned it happening again, given no widespread reports of the issue" and JJP can get the entire mech from you to diagnose.

#2537 2 years ago

I do agree. The confusing part to me was really as jasonbar has pointed out here how he was seemingly blowing fuses because the drop coil was not being able to drop the target, while mine did not seem to have any issues when i simply moved the microswitch so that it would be physically impossible to register a dropped target.

This target/coil issue aside, I have noticed with my WoZ and Hobbit what I would consider to be a concerning amount of simple QC issues however (some make me wonder how they could happen in the first place, like one of the speaker assemblies being mounted backwards on Hobbit?), even the replacement Winkie target assembly had an upside down Winkie sticker on it so I kept my original target. I do hope they get things like this sorted out. I think my WoZ is mostly doing well. I think I/We have taken care of everything except the badly flickering topper and Oz head (new power board on its way to try), and badly positioned lockdown bar assembly that has chipped away at the green rail powder coating, starting before I even got it (seems to be my problem to deal with, and they say they don't offer any touch up paint or anything either, ugh).
Brilliant game though, aside from the frustrations.

#2538 2 years ago
Quoted from elf70:

I do agree. The confusing part to me was really as jasonbar has pointed out here how he was seemingly blowing fuses because the drop coil was not being able to drop the target, while mine did not seem to have any issues when i simply moved the microswitch so that it would be physically impossible to register a dropped target.
This target/coil issue aside, I have noticed with my WoZ and Hobbit what I would consider to be a concerning amount of simple QC issues however (some make me wonder how they could happen in the first place, like one of the speaker assemblies being mounted backwards on Hobbit?), even the replacement Winkie target assembly had an upside down Winkie sticker on it so I kept my original target. I do hope they get things like this sorted out. I think my WoZ is mostly doing well. I think I/We have taken care of everything except the badly flickering topper and Oz head (new power board on its way to try), and badly positioned lockdown bar assembly that has chipped away at the green rail powder coating, starting before I even got it (seems to be my problem to deal with, and they say they don't offer any touch up paint or anything either, ugh).
Brilliant game though, aside from the frustrations.

Apply a little self adhesive felt to the lock-down bar where it rubs the powdercoat.
Powdercoated side-rails are relatively new to pinball and all of them need a little padding there.
I see wear there periodically.

#2539 2 years ago

I've had the ball get stuck between the winkie drop target and the plastic above it once. The target pulsed up and down rapidly and would not let go of the ball. I think it is a very rare occurrence, but it can happen. My recommendation is to immediately open the coin door which will kill power to the coils. As soon as the ball is free, you can close it again. No game, no matter how well you are doing, is worth burning out a coil or fracturing the plastic.

#2540 2 years ago

I'm not in this club but I'm trying.

#2541 2 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I'm not in this club but I'm trying.

Woot! You won't regret it.

I think I'm officially out of my honeymoon period (lasted longer than any other pin) as I can now go for a day or two without craving a game.

Still though, this game does not get old for me. Coming back to play is still just as enjoyable, challenging and exciting as ever. I can say with confidence that it has secured permanent place in my home.

#2542 2 years ago

I did a quick look at the manual and I don't think there are any 12vdc accessory lines, but was considering some minor modifications to quiet the machine when on but not being used. (Did this to my Stern Spike system.). Basically might swap and add fans as necessary, using quieter ones that likely move less air, but adding additional to make up for it. The end result would be same or better cooling with near silent running.

I haven't really planned out anything, but figured one of the first things to look at is how I might power it. Any suggestions? Looks like a 12v line powers the backbox lighting, but haven't looked at the draw yet. Figured I'd ask the brain trust first

#2543 2 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I'm not in this club but I'm trying.

At this point (Hobbit not complete yet), I'd say WOZ is better than TH...we'll see after TH gets polished up though.

#2544 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

At this point (Hobbit not complete yet), I'd say WOZ is better than TH...we'll see after TH gets polished up though.

Didn't hobbit receive its last code update at expo?

#2545 2 years ago

Yeah they said game is complete. Future updates for fixes. To me it felt close prior to that update so I would not expect to see much of anythinf new now.

#2546 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Didn't hobbit receive its last code update at expo?

1.90 appears to have been kinda rushed (for the expo I am assuming), seemingly not *quite* complete, and has a whole nest of bugs as a result of the rushing.

#2547 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I did a quick look at the manual and I don't think there are any 12vdc accessory lines, but was considering some minor modifications to quiet the machine when on but not being used. (Did this to my Stern Spike system.). Basically might swap and add fans as necessary, using quieter ones that likely move less air, but adding additional to make up for it. The end result would be same or better cooling with near silent running.
I haven't really planned out anything, but figured one of the first things to look at is how I might power it. Any suggestions? Looks like a 12v line powers the backbox lighting, but haven't looked at the draw yet. Figured I'd ask the brain trust first

^^^^What he said^^^^

Plan on doing this as well.

#2548 2 years ago

Yeah, it does generate a good amount of fan noise. I'm thinking its the cpu fan generating the most noise.

If your looking for 12v to run fans for the pc boards, etc... look no further than the PC power supply.

#2549 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Yeah, it does generate a good amount of fan noise. I'm thinking its the cpu fan generating the most noise.
If your looking for 12v to run fans for the pc boards, etc... look no further than the PC power supply.

If it's the CPU fan generating most of the noise, that will complicate things. I'm assuming there's not a ton of room to add a larger/quieter cooler (aside from the fact it is in a giant box with lots of space ). Plus, I'd like to be able to read CPU temp so not sure that level of access is easily available. It looks like the fans pull 12v from one pins on the board, but I didn't see a 12v otherwise just looking at the schematic... well, I guess the next step is assess where the noise is coming from

#2550 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I really like the 3D molded castle walls and witch's well mod. The original castle walls and witch's clear tube look cheap.

I still make these, as well as other mods for this game and many others. You can find all of my mods on www.modfatherpinball.com
Here is the direct link to all the WOZ mods
http://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz
Well_1024x1024 (resized).jpg

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