You need to find out which board is bad or which connector isn't connected. The boards are daisy chained together so your problem is the first bad board or connection - everything downwind of the bad board will be out as well. I like to go into "sound test" and "repeat". This lights up the board and you have music you can dance to while you fix it. Raise the playfied and it's relatively easy to figure out - the boards are numbered and cables have a "from" and "to". There's a diagram on the big silver box under the playfield that might be helpful.

I tried to reach JJP parts all day Friday and no one answered. Also no answer on my service ticket. Maybe everyone is tied up with the JJP#3 stuff for now.

See post #66:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only?tu=dcfan

Start with the right slingshot light board and check connectors/connections from board 21 through 26 to see if the TOTO lights can be resolved.
I believe the game needs to be off when disconnecting and connecting light boards.

Thanks for the recommendation to call JJ. Their IT did reply back right away to all 3 support tickets. I then replied back stating that I'm a "newb" at this and don't understand their instructions for repairing my game. NOTE: then (maybe their head IT guy) replied back this past Monday with a phone call, which is what I requested, which was the day after the Chicago pinball conference. I was very impressed I heard from someone so soon after their biggest con of the year! I will return his call today, since I'm now back in town.

WoZ is my first pin purchase, so is there a video on how to change WoZ rubbers/rings? I have about 40-50 new colors to put on, and I want to include before/after pics, because you all were very helpful! Maybe I can also help someone else out who wants to add some color to their game too.

Some of the rubber is very easy to replace.
Others require removing assembles. Be patient and take your time.

Use new tools: Klein long magnetic nut drivers and screw drivers are worth every penny.
Get a small magnetic bowl to put small parts in and stick it to the lock-down bar receiver.
Get a small flexible magnetic retrieval tool to save hours of work getting dropped screws or washers.
Place a terrycloth shop rag or towel on the playfield area you are working on in case of a dropped tool or small part.
Be methodical. Work in sections. There is no quick way to do this.
Clean and wax uncovered areas when you get to them, your playfield will thank you later.

Take pictures and note the size of the rubber you removed, its molded into each ring. Use the exact replacement size when replacing.
If in doubt refer to the manual.

Nice explanation

wish I would have read this 4 years ago =)

Thank you for the great advice and I will have to see who sells a magnetic bowl. I have most of the other parts you mentioned including the magnetic retrieval tool. I don't have the Klein magnetic nut drivers, but a non-magnetic long driver set from Titan Pinball that's very good quality but inexpensive. I did get a clip (with foam on the clips) on LED light from Lowes for $20, and I do use a brand new terrycloth towel every time I clean the glass or do any other work. You can get a pack of 50 towels on Amazon for $25, so towels for the playfield are easy.

The rubbers all came from https://www.titanpinball.com. I've been so very impressed with how the owner, Eric, has been very patient and helpful with my orders. The service couldn't be any better.

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I've owned my game now for 1 month ( my first pin purchase), and just had my most exciting game. It's lasted for an hour and my score was 3,833,622.

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Wow! Please tell me you are playing on 5 balls.

Joined the club yesterday.

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Congrats! Without the topper and with that low ceiling, the game has an interesting halo over it. . Nice TZ too!

In your first picture, it looks like your slingshot rubbers are not mounted low enough on the flipper side.

Hmmm. I don't have the topper, and I don't think I have a glow like that. Is there a setting to turn the topper on and off?

There is a topper brightness setting but more likely the LED strip was removed or disconnected or burnt out.

Actually, I was able to get up there and have a look (had to move another of my pins to do it). The LED strip works but shines backwards and not up. I never tried to put the topper on since I don't have the space. Maybe I have to move a bracket or something. Anyway, it is kind of irrelevant unless I find a way to drop my floors or raise my ceiling by 6".

Since I couldn't find a side by side comparison of the State Fair Balloon mod before and after, I decided to make one. Overall I'm VERY happy with this mod. Super easy to install and it looks great.

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New owner of a 75 WOZ - manufacture date of 9-12-16. Are all 75th WOZs signed by Jack?

Congrats! Mine is signed on the back.

Awesome and welcome to the club!

I'm not certain if they all are but I know many are. My ECLE was signed on the backglass. The impression I get is that Jack's willing to sign just about anything so if you really want it signed and its not already, just bring your backglass with you to the next big pinball show and catch him there. I imagine he will be at as many as he can this year demoing the new game.

Thanks. Looking forward to the community. It is our first pin at home although the whole family plays as much as possible whenever possible. Game is gorgeous and well built. Anything to share on mods, tips and such? I ordered the housing, shooter and cup to match the 75th paint and the 2 piece witch well. Haven't installed any of it until the weekend.

For me the best mod by far is the lit winkie target (sold here on pinside market not online), followed closely by adding a light under the state fair ballon.

I really like the 3D molded castle walls and witch's well mod. The original castle walls and witch's clear tube look cheap.

I am playing 5 balls, but my score was over 3 million with 3 balls. I guess I um "choked" on the last two.

Congrats! It quite an awesome club!

Thanks for the suggestion. I did find a flipper rubber that was to high! I also stretched one sling shot rubber because it kept bumping after the pinball would leave.

I can hit it consistently doing a backhand shot off the right flipper.

Edit- just realized how delayed my post is. My apologies.

Howdy-

Got & installed Indy Pinhead's lit Winkie mod. Nice little mod. I find this game to already be overload, way too busy, way too crowded, an over-the-top tour de force, so I'm not inclined to mod it, but this mod is so functionally important to knowing if the drop target is up, so I went for it.

I put in a slightly dimmer LED, then, after playing, I also angled the LED away a little to turn down the brightness a little more.

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A warning when replacing the drop target!

Short story: make sure your drop target switch registers solid closed when the target is down!

Long story:

After installing the mod, after playing several minutes, I got stuck in ball search, with a monkey ball up behind the single castle door.
I had blown fuse F703. Hmm, the upstream fuse before 3 downstream fuses, 1 of which controls the Drop Target Retract. Coincidence? Probably not!

I replaced the fuse. All coils worked fine in the test menu.

Played a few minutes, got stuck again.
This time fuse F710 had blown. This controls Drop Target Retract, Castle Doors VUK, Castle Double Doors, House Wall Drop.

Main suspect *definitely* Drop Target Retract!

I went into the switch test menus.
It turned out that the Winkie Guard Drop Target switch (#73), indicating drop target down would close only briefly during its drop & then return to an open switch condition. It was juuuust borderline aaalmost adjusted correctly. I'm not sure if I'd bent something a little bit or if the new target didn't push on the switch lever arm exactly as the stock target did, or if some other factor was present. So, I bent the switch control arm to get really solid & consistent behavior.

Apparently, while I'd been playing, the game had put the drop target down but didn't know the drop target was down, so it must have been really jamming on that poor little Drop Target Retract coil to really really really try to drop that target!

All better now. Played many games with no problems.

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On another note, in both the Indy & Mezel products, it's difficult to see the art relief in the clear target. I bet that a simple black vinyl CNC-cut sticker on the target face would show a really nice silhouette.
Or, maybe even a normal full rectangular art sticker printed on thinner paper--would that bleed light?
Or a full rectangular sticker printed with some clear portions on the art.

Another simple idea: a plain small rectangular sticker (or paint/vinyl/sheet metal?) "hat" on top of the target to block light bleeding through the top face when it is down. I really like the glow of the target face when the target is up, but I'd rather have the target light be hidden or muted when the target is down. I think it would be more eye-catching if it glowed when up but was muted when down.

Thanks,
-Jason

Try adjusting the winki down position so its a little higher. I would at first have balls settle on top of the winki target but after adjusting it have never had that happen again. It's adjusted by a screw at the bottom of the assembly.

It is not the rubber that is the problem when it is constantly bumping the slingshot. You need to adjust the gap on the slingshot switches.

Huh, I'll have to try that with the glass off. It seems strange though since that coils is set for a momentary pulse regardless of switch position that it would hold on. I could see it rapid firing but there should be enough time for the ball to escape between pulses. If it can be replicated under controlled circumstances sounds like a good bug to report.

Without a thorough examination of your broken part, its impossible to say what went wrong.
From a warranty point of view, if replacing the assembly solved the problem, then everything worked out and all is good in the world.
I imagine that JJP has listed this occurrence and will have more info on this down the road if it ever comes up again.
JJP isnt too concerned as they have agreed to fix anything that goes wrong during the warranty period.
With that in mind, enjoy your game and let JJP fret over it, thats what warranties are for.

This sounds like potentially like a rare misassembly drop mech from the factory. It could be some stress happened that made the coil jam, but perhaps it was rapidly trying to fire, and not enough to blow the fuse? Anyway - I agree with others here, that a warranty replace the whole thing will be the best thing for you and JJP. Its perhaps the only one to malfunction, and you get back up and running (I wouldn't be concerned it happening again, given no widespread reports of the issue" and JJP can get the entire mech from you to diagnose.

Apply a little self adhesive felt to the lock-down bar where it rubs the powdercoat.
Powdercoated side-rails are relatively new to pinball and all of them need a little padding there.
I see wear there periodically.

I've had the ball get stuck between the winkie drop target and the plastic above it once. The target pulsed up and down rapidly and would not let go of the ball. I think it is a very rare occurrence, but it can happen. My recommendation is to immediately open the coin door which will kill power to the coils. As soon as the ball is free, you can close it again. No game, no matter how well you are doing, is worth burning out a coil or fracturing the plastic.

I'm not in this club but I'm trying.

Woot! You won't regret it.

I think I'm officially out of my honeymoon period (lasted longer than any other pin) as I can now go for a day or two without craving a game.

Still though, this game does not get old for me. Coming back to play is still just as enjoyable, challenging and exciting as ever. I can say with confidence that it has secured permanent place in my home.

I did a quick look at the manual and I don't think there are any 12vdc accessory lines, but was considering some minor modifications to quiet the machine when on but not being used. (Did this to my Stern Spike system.). Basically might swap and add fans as necessary, using quieter ones that likely move less air, but adding additional to make up for it. The end result would be same or better cooling with near silent running.

I haven't really planned out anything, but figured one of the first things to look at is how I might power it. Any suggestions? Looks like a 12v line powers the backbox lighting, but haven't looked at the draw yet. Figured I'd ask the brain trust first

At this point (Hobbit not complete yet), I'd say WOZ is better than TH...we'll see after TH gets polished up though.

Didn't hobbit receive its last code update at expo?

Yeah they said game is complete. Future updates for fixes. To me it felt close prior to that update so I would not expect to see much of anythinf new now.

^^^^What he said^^^^

Plan on doing this as well.

Yeah, it does generate a good amount of fan noise. I'm thinking its the cpu fan generating the most noise.

If your looking for 12v to run fans for the pc boards, etc... look no further than the PC power supply.

If it's the CPU fan generating most of the noise, that will complicate things. I'm assuming there's not a ton of room to add a larger/quieter cooler (aside from the fact it is in a giant box with lots of space ). Plus, I'd like to be able to read CPU temp so not sure that level of access is easily available. It looks like the fans pull 12v from one pins on the board, but I didn't see a 12v otherwise just looking at the schematic... well, I guess the next step is assess where the noise is coming from

I still make these, as well as other mods for this game and many others. You can find all of my mods on www.modfatherpinball.com
Here is the direct link to all the WOZ mods
http://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz
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