Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinballinreno.
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Quoted from Navystan:Thanks. This is one on eBay. Look right?
ebay.com link » 25pcs 0 1uf 100nf 50v Ceramic Capacitor 104z Z5v Free Shipping Usa
Sure, someone else might have them even cheaper.
Msybe not. It sounds ok
I bought some from ftom digikey for 9 cents each but shipping us high.
Quoted from Navystan:I think I'm as close the the wood as possible. Hopefully, there is still some room to adjust. If not, bend the plate tab more?
Don't play with the plate. It takes hours to get it right.
Quoted from Navystan:Posted on old thread, but thought I would post here for others to find....
I followed your (pinballinreno) tip (thank you for all your tips and ideas for working the castle door issues). I lowered the castle playfield flipper power from 12 (normal) to 9. Still can make all the shots and it ensures the ball doesn't hit the doors too hard. In my case, the weight of the ball at normal power (12) was causing door to "jump" over the latch and cause right door to open partially. As you have said, the latch and doors seem to work best when doors are at different heights. But, I had already lowered the right door as far as possible without touching the wood. I will check the return spring to make sure it's not rubbing on the latch as others have suggested.
As a matter of fact, it might be good for most users to lower power to minimize the wear and tear on the doors and the systems that control the doors.
So, for now I'm finally 100% on the doors. Now I can add some of the standard mods.
My castle power is also at 9.
Good catch. I forgot about high power causing difficulties.
One last thing for games with a few thousand plays like mine:
The black rubber bumper strip inside the latch edge is prone to wear on the right side.
It actually wears at an angle and creates a "ramp" that allows the door stop to slip over the catch.
I just carefully scraped this rubber strip off with a tiny screwdriver, turned it 180 degrees to give it a fresh side, and glued it back on with a couple drops of 5 min epoxy.
This worked exceptionally well.
I have since ordered spares from JJP but the adhesive is so poor, i still epoxied it on.
If you have gone to all the trouble of rebuilding this mech, and got it working perfectly, its worth inspecting this last item.
Quoted from FatPanda:That is helpful. Thank you!
Put a little silicone grease on the threaded rod.
Same as the mokey rod.
Quoted from FatPanda:Did that with the monkey rod, since it was making noises and when I inspected it, it was a little gummed up.. The grease worked like a charm. I didnt do it with the witch rod since it didn't seem like that rod had grease on it.
Yeah, it too has to be greased.
Quoted from LukyDuck:Wow, nice write up. I am now hoping that I never have door issues after reading all of the recent posts.
The right door motor will absolutely fail at some point.
I believe i called it a "weak" design, lol.
Its good to know that its not too bad to fix it, you just have to be aware of a couple things.
I think I covered most items in my thread about it.
Quoted from FatPanda:Where does the light tie into?
It taps into a nearby GI light.
Comet has nice adapters for their matrix line if you want to do it yourself.
You can get a translucent drop target now ftom Zitt.
Use the spare sticker from the goody bag.
Total price about $10
Quoted from FatPanda:I was definitely thinking about doing a DIY light. I will have extra 12V bulbs from replacing/adding the spotlights to my game, so could easily tap off of the spotlight as well and mount a socket underneath. I know Pinball Life sells translucent drop targets that appear to be the same but I will see what Zitt has.
With that said, I might just keep it simple and go with another spotlight pointing towards that area. Will be cheaper and simpler
1 long bayonet socket
1 12v GI tap/bulb connector from comet
1 12v 4smd, bayonet base, green or red led (it has to be bright)
1 translucent drop target, plus 1 spare in case it breaks
1 sticker, plus a spare for the replacement target.
So, not much to it really but, its an awesome mod!
Quoted from apinballwiz:Is that strip called double door stop pad?
yes, i believe so.
Quoted from Pinforlife:Loose pillow cotton, roll between hands to slightly form. Just overlap the base and twist around and slightly tuck and hold while using a lighter to melt fibers together. Hot glue would work as well.
Looks great!
Quoted from Navystan:I used white lithium and like others have said, it's a bit messy and "slings around." I might give magnalube or superlube a spin.
White lithium can dry out and get chalky.
Pure silicone grease will not dry out that way but, both will attract black dust and have to be cleaned with naptha every couple thousand plays.
Quoted from Navystan:Since I'm getting this NIB RR, I want to lay down mylar in the trouble spots. Are there any pre cut pieces for the trouble areas? If not, where's the best place to get large pieces? Thanks.
JJP has a precut mylar set if it isnt installed already.
It should be already installed.
Generally all you need is mylar beween the pop bumpers and anywhere the ball drops from a wireform.
So, "pops and drops".
Quoted from Navystan:Sounds like I will likely have to add glass and shaker since mine is earlier than yours.
The shsker is awsome.
More so than the invisiglass imho.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Trace the lighting harness back to the cluster of push-in wire connectors. Wiggle there. If that triggers/solves the issue, replace all of the push-in connectors with something better. JJP used quick connectors with stranded wire that were only rated for solid wire. Stranded wire eventually fails in these connectors, causing the exact issue you are describing. (Don’t ask me how I know).
I agree.
That giant cluster of wal-nuts is really dumb.
The lighting fails every time you move the big black hose lol.
Replace them all with lever nuts.
Quoted from RTS:Is it possible to convert the spinner to an opto switch?
Has anyone done it? I think it would be an improvement to have less friction for lighter shots to get through.
A drop of super-lube silicone oil on the spinner is all you need.
The stuff is amazing.
Quoted from FatPanda:That's what feels like happens to me too. A slow-mo video would be able to tell us for sure.
I bent the flatrail a little to soften the arc slightly.
I also lowered the flipper bats angle 1/16", this helped a lot on my game. Makes the throne room more accessable.
Some experimentation was needed on my part to get it right.
Still it rejects once in awhile, but its a lot better.
Quoted from FatPanda:So you bent the rail outward? Kind of what I was thinking.
Yeah, the bend appears to be a little sharp. Opening it up and creating a little more graceful curve helps a lot.
Quoted from BENETNATH:ok, so I've found the board and connectors that are creating the issue.
It's a small board #1 that brings light below the rainbow playfield.
When i pull strongly both cables, the lights are perfectly working, so I think I'd need to change these 2 connectors and the plugs.
What would be the references for these ones ??
[quoted image]
Thanks
check the pins on the circuit board, maybe reheat them with a little flux.
cracked pins do this a lot.
Quoted from adol75:What do you use to clean the right ramp ? I bought a novus 1 a while ago but never used it. I read here and there that's it's scratchy.
Novus1 is about as scratchy as windex since it has no abrasive in it at all.
Its just a cleaner with a little wax in it.
Quoted from LukyDuck:I never noticed until today that the tree closest to the witch will lean towards the witch when the lower magnet is activated.
It the pop bumper ring cracked?
Quoted from LukyDuck:I checked everything out. Nothing broken or loose. It’s just the natural looseness of the tree and the magnet makes it lean. I bet many do this. But people never notice.
Interesting, mine doesnt do this.
Quoted from Rager170:Soooo, have anyone really gotten to Somewhere Over The Rainbow mode? Do you actually have to complete Rescue Multiball, Crystal Ball Multiball and the others or just start them?
Also, how do you start Haunted Forest Multiball. Ive done it once but completely by chance.
getting 7 of 8 emeralds is pretty common.
The hardest is the rescue multiball one, its near impossible.
Pinballgoddess is one of the best WOZ players out there, and still hasnt managed it.
She gets 7 of 8 emeralds all the time.
I have joked about having me gain this emerald with the glass off, first, before she plays, but she refuses lol.
Im confident due to the difficulty of this, a lot the people that purport doing it are cheats.
Read the rules on it, its near impossible.
Quoted from jasonbar:An easy question for the wizards here.
Sporadically (sometimes feels frequent, other times it's ages between occurrences), during a game, many of the PF lights will freeze on with some apparently random color.
This is always remedied by power cycling the machine. (I haven't found another method to get them to behave.)
I have a vague recollection of seeing posts about needing to fuss with(?) a set of cables (where they plug into the computer?).
ECLE SN 0196, very early run (first run?), 5V light boards w/ a couple 7.5V boards in there.
Thank you in advance for pointing me in the right direction!
-Jason
PS--This issue has been here & there for some time, but I melted the witch today (have done a handful of times, but certainly not frequently) & didn't get the full light show, so that was the last straw for me!
If its a loose wire problem resolved by moving the big black hose of wires,
Try replacing the big bundle of wal-nuts with lev-r-nuts.
Its a much more stable connection.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:I'm occasionally getting this image on my crystal ball. Any insight into why? Also installed cliffy's in this area and now the connector going to the crystal ball will work itself loose. Was this originally glued in place or are the connectors worn and loose allowing it to walk out?
Thanks for the insight!
[quoted image]
Sometimes its just a "cold" boot.
Re-booting fixes it, might be a loose, dirty or marginal connection on the crystal ball. Thats where the video data is.
Hot glue the connector on.
Quoted from TZBen:Do any of the online stores sell the tiny-tiny adjustment hex bolts used to adjust the witch switch mech? Do they have a name/size?
thanks I lost one
is it listed in the manual?
Quoted from bobukcat:I'm sure they have their hands more than full with GNR and prep for Toy Story or whatever is next from Lawlor but if they hit a lull in production, there are parts already sitting on a shelf (surely there have to be some of those YBR playfields and wireforms leftover) and they have any orders or demand for them I could see them cranking out a few more YBRs or RRs. Each one has to be extremely profitable for them at this point. I'm pretty impressed with how this game has held it's value considering all the iterations, quantities produced, etc.
I agree. I wouldn't call the YBR a flop, but the price point has certainly limited its attractiveness.
I could see them running a few more RR versions though. Why not? The demand is still there if you wanted a NIB.
I dont see me selling my ECLEWOZ anytime soon though, I like the wooden apron and clearcoated cabinet.
Quoted from Meri-cah:Ok. So after many months of troubleshooting. I’m looking for any input/assistance to help.
Problem: one of my speaker lines cuts in and out through the game. Results in major volume swings up and down.
Solutions so far:
*replaced rca speaker lines with high end monster cables. No change
*replaced the in line sound filters. No change
*inspected sound board. Just to make sure re-flowed solder. No change
With the backglass off, I have swapped the input RCA cables from the back of each speaker. It then makes that specific speaker cut in and out.
I’m trying to figure out a way to have the game on, playfield lifted, and wiggle the sound cables to figure out what is the problem. Any ideas on how to do this?
RR 75th build date 10/2014
The issue is intermittent but does occur during every game. Sometimes is triggered during multiball. The sound is moderate then multiball makes is super loud. Then changes during multiball. So don’t think it’s a software glitch. Definitely feel something with sound board. New board is $150 but I have no idea if that will fix the problem.
Thanks in advance
Remove the ground loop isolator?
Quoted from Meri-cah:Had a few hours to work on the game today. Was able to put machine in test sound mode and lift playfield to get to the sound board. Determined to be a bad RCA input on the board. Replaced that and solved the speaker cutting in/out issue. Still had the volume raising and lowering during game play. Reset software and restored defaults to volume options. 2 games played and so far perfect. Holding out hope it’s fixed. Love this game.
Are you running the current code?
Quoted from Rager170:I dont know if I say its a must. I have to clean off my threaded rod so I disabled it so it doesnt break. Im not missing it as much as I thought I would..
If it were a choice of having no WOZ or having the YBR, Id definitely go with the YBR...
Just put the silicone grease on the monkey and witch rods once in awhile.
They will last forever.
Quoted from d0n:I'll get a better pic tomorrow. I'm sure someone could solder this back on but not me. I can't solder well enough. I know my limits.
From the picture, though a bit grainy when zoomed in, it does indeed look like it was ripped off the board.
I can see bits of solder on the pins and depressions on the solder pads.
Though it looks like surface mount? It could have been cold joints all across the pads. This does sometimes happen.
It also looks like the pins were not set deep enough into the solder well on the pads.
So, it would be easy to rip off a connector from a coldly soldered surface mount pad or a poorly mounted part, really easy.
It can be repaired with a hot air station if you know someone who has one.
Im a bit surprised that this particular connector wasnt a thru hole type for durability.
In my opinion (for what its worth) your part is suffering from weak assembly practice and should be replaced or repaired.
Quoted from Nokoro:Well, it’s been years since I got my machine and have never greased the rods. I suppose it is time to do some preventative greasing. I just ordered some superlube. How much do I apply, and do I apply it to the whole threaded rod, or just in one place and then move the monkey back and forth to work it’s way in?
Yes, a little does a long way. Just apply a bit and wipe it off, a thin coat is best.
Putting a little on the witch rod really helps it too.
Quoted from MooButt:Anyone know what I need to do to get my multiball release to work better? It seems very weak and doesn’t seem to want to raise all of the time. Sometimes I have to nudge the machine to take some pressure off of it so it will raise up.
Make sure the screw that holds the locking bar is tight.
Even slightly loose affects the way it works.
It shouldnt move left or right at all.
Quoted from SLRage:Cool idea! Do they always spin or can you have them face forward?
Its one of those 3D propeller fan signs. You can put whatever images you want.
Quoted from delt31:Guys with the green on their tree pops, do you have a link where you bought, Amazon if possible? Thanks
Aquarium plastic plants. Find one with leaves that look tree-like.
Quoted from 27dnast:Tech question:
I have the most recent software revision installed. Per JJP tech help, I've been asked to re-load the software with a complete ISO update.
I've followed the download instructions on JJP website. When I attempt to install, my game seems to indicate that it sees the USB stick. Installs something that takes a matter of (maybe) 25 seconds... and then the game is ready to play.
The issue my game exhibits (the witch begins to laugh at the start of a game, but abruptly goes silent... all other sounds and music in the game work 100%) hasn't seemed to go away. But, I have a pretty good feeling that the ISO update isn't happening. Shouldn't it take 5-10 minutes to install?
Wondering what I'm doing wrong, here.
A bad USB cable can cause exactly this even with a USB 2.0, 4 or 8gb stick.
I had the replace the cable.
Plugging into the rear of the computer is a good temporary solution.
Also maybe try a different USB stick.
WOZ likes USB 2.0 sticks better than USB 3.0.
Quoted from marioparty34:Never heard of E6000. Would you recommend using it to keep the connector in place for the crystal ball as well? Mine keeps coming loose after a few games.
Hot glue the connector on.
Hot glue works really well and scrapes off easily.
Just dont melt the connector with the hot tip of the glue gun.
Quoted from delt31:This was perfect. I'm not nearly as talented as you guys with this stuff but I was happy with the end product. I used the smallest amount of hot glue for easy removal of I wanted. Thanks for the help
[quoted image][quoted image]
You gotta get the munchkin playfield edge guard from Cliffy, maybe.
Quoted from DCFAN:The munchkin playfield cliffy prevents the damage but will not cover the damage that has already happened on the top from chipping artwork. In other words, once the damage caused by the ball striking the edge of the playfield has happened it is visible even with the cliffy installed. The cliffy prevents the damage from ever happening.
Molotow black paint marker fixed the chipping on mine pretty good before I added the Cliffy. Looks factory.
So, its not too tragic of a touch-up.
Quoted from Medic:Hello need a little help here. I’m sorta of new to pinball repair and this has been a massive frustration project. I’ve spent several hours in trying to fix the double doors and few trips to JJP for parts. It all started with one of the doors not registering when bashing. I couldn’t remove the black screws from the post since it started to strip so I decided to work with that metal cover over the switches. Felt like I was doing surgery on an ant. Long story short, I decided to switch the old switches for new ones. It fixed the bashing problem but now doors won’t open/close during test. I did make one of the strings tighter by cutting a little shorter since that was the only way that made the new switch work properly. I put everything back together and bashing the door works wonderfully. Could both motors suddenly burn out? I read something on the forums about a screw being in the way that could prevent the doors from opening? The only thing I touched were the switches so not sure if a screw can be the problem. Before I take upper playfield out again which was very time consuming, I’m hoping I can get some more guidance. I asked about dropping off the upper playfield to JJP but I don’t think they are doing that now. Thank you
The doors can be made to work flawlessly without modification.
I, as well as others, have done extensive troubleshooting and testing on them.
See and read this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-castle-doors-not-closing-fully
Quoted from Medic:Sigh. I loosen the springs a little and the doors open but now they don’t bash again as it’s not enough tension on the switch. Back to square 1.
Both the motors are bad. I have seen this exact issue.
Both motors need full power the get past the spring tension.
The motors actually get weak, and have no power at all after awhile.
It has to do with the way the mech works. Stalling the motors as a stop, while they are fully energized without cutting the power to them, wears them out.
Replace them, get a couple spares also when you order.
Mention that people keep getting motors without capacitors on them, they might look into this.
Get some extra black door screws and maybe an extra door post (in case you break off a screw in a post).
Get extra screws for any that have stripped heads or are starting to wear.
Always put brand new screws in when working on this mech. They fatigue and will break on disassembly the next time you service this unit.
Get a proper Allen wrench set that fits the screw heads without any slop.
Put a little flat on the spindle shaft, with a dremel, to help with the slipping issue, if they havent done that for you.
Put blue loctite on all of the screws, this mech is notorious for loosening up and failing.
I have put 6 motors in so far.
This mech can be maddening, but also can be made to work perfectly with a little care and knowedge.
Get this tool, works perfectly for removing bashed up door screws:
https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-RT24CVS-Cresent-Tongue-Groove/dp/B01CDJCPUI/ref=asc_df_B01CDJCPUI/
You will find many, MANY uses for this little tool on a pinball machine.
Quoted from Medic:Thank you. Will pick up the parts today from JJp. Will be ordering that wrench as well. I did ask about the capacitors and they said they don’t put them on anymore for their motors.
Then you will have to acquire those also.
Quoted from bobukcat:Nice set of suggestions! I'll add to be careful with the blue loctite and ensure it does not run down the shaft and into the motor(s).
Yeah, I can see this if you just pour it on lol, less is more.
But just a tiny drop on the threads of a screw is all thats needed.
Quoted from iEatHands:Hey all, just joined the club. I picked up a very nice WOZ AULE with direct print cab.
When I picked it up it was still on v4.0 software and updated to the latest tonight. Only thing is that the coil settings for the items such as bumpers are now showing as "time in ms" and a value that only goes down to 20 rather than the coil strenght it did in the v4.0 code?
Also my backglass is not coming off.. no matter which way the lock is turned the glass will not budge, not even a little.. There is no signs on physical damage to the head. Any ideas on how I'd remove it?
Cheers!
Backglass is very tight in the slot.
Pounding with palms, striking upwards will dislosge it after many
many medium hits.
Its glass so no sharp strikes or prying.
The lock is open when the key won't come out.
If the door switch doesnt register you have an alignment problem.
Question:
Does the door switch work by manually clicking it. Dont rely on the door.
(yes, Im into the kirkland whisky now... lol)
Quoted from Medic:The switch clicks if I push the little button with my finger. I replaced the switch twice to make sure the first one wasn’t the problem. If there is an alignment problem how do I fix it. Everything seems to be aligned and nothing rubbing against wood or playfield. I can’t move switch closer to the metal bar since it’s screwed in. I’m thinking maybe bend that bar in front of switch so it activates easier?
Whatever works, but be aware, all of us have fixed it without extreme measures.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:woz started acting up tonight, turn it on, boots up fine but start button and doorlock buttons are all dead. any suggestions?
Fuse?
Loose wire or connector?
Quoted from zaphX:No, it's some kind of ball contact in the upper right of the machine.
My game doesnt do this.
Throw/roll a ball manually up there and see what its hitting maybe....
Might be missing a rubber.
Quoted from Skipnatty:Have a small issue wonder if anyone else has had and how they went about fixing it...
The rivets that hold the lock nuts for one of the witch microswitches completely broke off, so I can't hold one of the switches in place and the other I'm constantly fiddling with and it'll either be too sensitive or not sensitive enough, so I guess really it's two problems with the same mech.
Is it possible to just replace that plate that has the rivets for those switches? Is there a better solution? Has anyone built a mod to replace these tiny roller switches into something more practical?
Wondering whether I have to order a whole new witch assembly or if there's something else I can do. Just really disappointed with how unreliable that mech has been since I've bought the game secondhand.
Second hand games often need a few parts here and there.
I would just replace any parts that are broken or worn out.
The manual is a great place to start for exploded views and part numbers.
JJP will help you as you need parts.
Quoted from Skipnatty:Understood, just wondering if there's a better solution to these roller switches...at least on my game they've been very inconsistent and wondering if someone engineering something around them. I will grab a pic when I can to illustrate the issue specifically with the roller switch rivets.
My game has thousands of plays and has never needed any witch parts.
I think most games are fairly robust, you just might need switches and a bracket.
Quoted from fnosm:When I did this I had to replace the bracket.
Back to original problem this witch switch issue needs a good solution. I have repeatedly called in this topic for someone to make a better solution and to date no one has risen to the challenge. Still hoping something can be done.
I think its a good place to install an MRS switch.
remove the complete switch assembly, dremel under the playfield a little thinner in front of the witch (1/4" to 3/8" thickness works really well).
Add a piece of flatrail with a heavy black bumper in front of the witch etc...
This would remove all the complicated parts and add robustness. The switch is plug and play and needs no adjustment.
It should be very easy to rework this and make it work. It would work like the trunk on ToM, but faster and more reliable, and does not require an eddy sensor board or controller.
However you would lose the single hits from left or right switch and a double hit for a center shot. I think this is ok as a trade-off, or simply put in 2 switches.
R&M game owners are now installing 2 of them in the wider than normal lane.
I have one in my Diner Cup and plan to add 2 more on my DW ramps under the who mobiles.
Quoted from delt31:As a buyer of 3 woz’s, the only recommendation I would make to all buyers is to get one with 2.0.
Many people with 7.5 and older swear they never had problems......until the day they do. It’s a flawed system and it will happen. Sucks.
I have had a couple board failures on my 7.5v ECLEWOZ system, but I have several complete sets of spare boards now from 2.0 adopters, so I guess im fortunate.
Still I havent had to use them yet in thousands of plays though.
Quoted from fnosm:do you have a link to more on the MRS switch? This is definitely the way to go.
Also I didn't know you could get a double hit from a direct center shot, This is great idea I wish it worked better.
Work with Sonic , he is making and selling them.
I think he would love to come up with something.
Personally, you could mock up the switch without removing anything at all. They can be stuck on with regular VHB siderail tape.
I would be very interested in the result.
Quoted from Medic:Sorry I didn’t specify. The upper playfield double doors. Is the mechanism still the same on ybr? Looking to see if I can buy a YBR double door edition if it’s a better design. I’m still having trouble fixing mine two weeks later.
It has been re-engineered, its not the same.
Quoted from mrwierdwrench:Which tornado mod is that?
Looks like back alley creations.
Quoted from Flash71:New WOZ EC #498 owner here. What is the best Emerald City mod to get and is it worth it?
Get the whole set from backalleycreations.com also get the 3d emerald city.
The tornado and castle walls with the little Toto, and the Emerald city look really good together.
Quoted from apinballwiz:I'm still trying to figure out why if I reseat J101 or J102 on WOZ6 board the game works perfectly. I've bypassed several boards (not all) including WOZ6 and 29, (even though I tried replacing those boards), all to no avail. I've also reseated many cables on light boards and in the silver box. Power up the game, erratic lighting. Reseat connector, perfect. No evidence of loose wiring. I kind of feel like I'm wasting time bypassing more boards, and the problem lies elsewhere. If I'm wrong, somebody please tell me!!!
Replace the connector?
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Does anyone know where a 12 volt for woz rr would be for me to use with under cab lighting? I wasted all my time removing the monitor and there is nothing behind there
12v adapter lugged into the service outlet?
Quoted from Flash71:Getting ready to pop this in my WOZ EC. Thanks again. yelobird !!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice score!
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:My “c” and “e” targets in rescue in the upper playfield need to be more sensitive. I have a leaf switch adjuster but I don’t know how to access those targets. Do I have to remove the entire upper playfield or can I get to them in an easier way? Thanks!
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:Also the light of my “I” in rainbow is typically a different color than the other letters. Ie - it will be yellow during game play while the others are white. Is this a lightboard starting to go or is there some other fix or adjustment?
Yes the castle playfield has to be removed to adjust the rescue leaf switches. A 1/16" gap is sufficient per bally/williams. It might be ok as it stands.
Your rainbow target board is bad. Order one from JJP, at some point.
Quoted from zaphX:I must be the one person who likes the stock witch tube. She can't get bashed up in there.
The stock witch makes me want to grab a can opener to free her...
Sadly most people who casually play the game dont even realize the witch is in there, reflection makes the witch can opaque.
Changing out the can-o-witch makes the witch a more central focus, I think its one of the more useful mods out there, as well as the lighted Winkie target.
Quoted from darkryder:Which Titan or other full rubber kit is the cats meow for a Ruby Red WOZ? I need to replace a broken sling rubber under the munchkin playfield and might as well do all new rubber while I’m in there. Which rubbers play and look amazing on this pin? I’ve heard good things about Titan, but definitely don’t want that extra bouncy rubber like what’s in Alice Cooper.
A 2" white rubber ring plays the best under the munchkin playfield. Early games came with it stock.
I have tried the black and a titan, the STC white rubber ring plays better and has a bit more action,
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:Thanks for the tip Scott! I used this and the manual to put together a just slightly semi-customized order.
Went with Perfect Plays (from Pinball Life) though. Hoping to retain the bounciness (based on my ACNC's orig PP rubbers) of my WoZ's current white rubbers while adding some color as well.
I have all the flipper rubbers imaginable...
Perfect Play flipper rubber plays the best on WOZ and TH in my opinion.
Quoted from meSz:Yeah I just had the game on for 10 min and that coil was so hot, after turning the machine off, it actually burned my finger. JJP advised can replace it but they no longer have them (gave the impression they're no longer available). I am by no means electrical engineer but I can de-solder and solder components. Can anyone advise as to a replacement part?
"If it ain't broke, dont fix it"
Quoted from d0n:I really wish the crystal ball was more reliable!? The connector pins fell off my computer board. I took the board off the crystal ball and sent it back to JJP . They resoldered it for $25 + shipping. It works again but about 1/2 the time the image is just garbled colors or upside down text.
The ball (or TV inside it) is mounted at such a weird angle that only someone 5 foot tall could easily see the images inside it. Taller people have to duck down and to the right to see the images. Did JJP not do any research or quality control on this basically useless toy?
Does anyone else have these problems with the crystal ball?
I replaced it with a new LED screen, rock solid now.
Quoted from TaylorVA:If the balls don’t release from the munchkin lock is the prevailing thought that the bar is not lifting enough?
Check the coil wire for cold or badly soldered joints first then
See if the mounting screw that secures the bar is tight before any adjustments.
The bar should not be able to be moved side to side.
A loose bar or loose coil makes the lift very inconsistant.
In fact, while looking at the mechanism with the Huts plastic off, check all of its fasteners including the big single screw that holds the coil. All should be snug.
When making timing adjustments, only change the numbers by 3 or 5 at a time to dial it in.
Small adjustments to the timing work best, write down the original numbers. Otherwise it can be maddening to get it right,
Quoted from hisokajp:sadly one of my my original red shoe flipper bat broke today... i was disappointed to see that the part is not available on JJP store anymore, is there any other way i can find a replacement?
Save the pieces and glue it with CA gel glue to a new sparkly flipper:
JJP might have some but not in red glitter.
Rick was the last guy who had them and I think he's sold out.
Those are the black flippers that JJP replaced the glitter ones with.
Still not worth $53, imho...
Just scrape off the broken slipper and glue it on a red flipper bat?
Quoted from bobukcat:I'd go ahead and test the doors opening and closing too before bolting everything back down tight. There's a dedicated test for them under Tests-Device Tests-Castle Doors.
I set mine on a box under the raised playfield, plugged it all in and examined it throughly.
It was very informative early on.
Quoted from meSz:I’m getting a lot of rejects when trying to shot the ball into the crystal ball. A lot of times it even makes it past the spinner and still comes back out. Anyone else experience this?
If there’s a post about this already please share!
I got it to work better by bending the flatrail so that it has a more rounded curve that lets the ball bounce in instead of out.
I still get rejects but its vastly reduced.
Took about 20 tries to get it satisfactory, lol.
Quoted from Nokoro:Yes, it’s normal. About half my shots are rejected. During MB, if you have two balls on the left flipper, doing a quick mini flip is a good way to send one to the CB.
This exploit will cost you your bonus if done twice, be careful.
There was a code update to penalize you for this exploit.
Quoted from meSz:Thanks all for the posts!
Yeah, try to make the bend less sharp.
I didnt use any tools per se, I just took it out and started smoothing the bends by hand so the ball can go into the lane more fully before it bounces out.
I just watched Pinballgoddess play a game with zero crystal ball rejects in a 40 min game.
Not her best, 5.5 million points....didnt even get on the board lol.
Quoted from Nokoro:3 times actually. Twice and you are ok. Just have to remember to hit another switch after the second time. And, I thought the penalty was no hold flippers for the rest of the ball, not loss of bonus.
I have tripped the penalty during multiball, its no joke.
Quoted from brickbuilder14:It's exactly 1/4 inch
[quoted image]
Check for cold joints on the coils.
Reheat them.
Also check that the big screw that holds the arm on is tight.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:I would love to watch your wife play a game of WOZ. Maybe take a gameplay video sometime and share?
She is a very focused player.
If i turn the radio on, i hear a gentle scream to turn it off, as the beat kills her timing...lol.
A camera would end up out the window and into the yard.
WOZ is her private serene happy place.
I am truly blessed that she likes to play pinball and an excellent player once she learns a game.
Quoted from zaphX:Honestly it's that. I already lubed my monkey once and it's already slowing and dropping the ball again.
It's not a big deal to lube it again, but it's kinda messy as the first time you run it, it flings lube all over your room.
I would very happily trade my ECLE for a YBR and just do without it.
I do not mind fixing a thing on a pin. In fact I enjoy it. I do mind chronic repairs to the same thing repeatedly though.
Im using syl-glide grease. A little dab will do ya..... You dont meed gobs of it, its 50 times more slippery than lithium grease.
No muss, no fuss, no flinging.
My game is as clean as day one.
Definitely use it on the witch threaded rod too.
Quoted from zaphX:I have some of that on hand (I use it for spinners) and will try it. Thanks!
Not the thin oil for spinners, the grease.
Sil-glide for gearboxes and bearings and such.
Quoted from TomN:I’ve never had to lube my monkey and it still works just fine. Just lucky I guess. Lol
The neoprene inside the monkey track wears without grease.
It really depends on age and how many games played.
It was lubed from the factory.
Same with the witch threaded rod.
Quoted from fnosm:Would you mind digging up your invoice? I was an ECLE original buyer at 7500 (I know earlier folks only paid 6K) with a deposit in by September of 2011. In November of 2013 I ponied up an additional 1500 for the RR. Because the price was 9K. I have heard of others saying their RR was 8500 but I haven't seen it. It doesn't make much difference but I am trying to confirm if the RR was being sold for 8500. If so was shipping extra or was it included?
I was a buyer in the first week of offering. Before i knew what the title was! Lol.
Paid $6500 + $418 shipping.
Waited 3 years....
I love the game.
Quoted from jukeboxtim:I installed the new update version 7.02 on my Ruby Red WOZ a few months back and the upper right flipper right above wizard keeps flapping continually while flipper button is pressed. The lower flipper stays energized while this right upper flipper keeps flapping. Should I reinstall software update? It was not doing this before the software update.any other thing to check.Thanks Tim
I would try that first.
Quoted from Mcgringoloco:You can adjust the height of the drop target to make it level with the playfield when dropped
Unless is broken off and sitting in the bottom of the cabinet....
Pretty common for this game.
Quoted from JoshODBrown:Just thought I'd post my update here incase it can help someone else.
Used the UNetbootin utility and Rufus a few times, tried a few USB sticks with no luck... 8GB/16GB, different brands.. game would not recognize it either way. Tried the back USB port, still nothing... the game would just boot up as usual and ignored the USB stick completely. one of my 16GB drives was quite old and I think ive had issues with it in the past, so its hard to say if it was the best one to use or not. I've gone through the same rigamarole in the past with Stern games and trying to find the perfect USB stick... so this didn't surprise me
I have a SanDisk 8GB SDHC card and a generic brand USB SD card reader. I was able to format the card as FAT32 and write the 7.03 image to that with UNetbootin, and it booted and upgraded my game the first try!
Zero USB failures with USB 2.0 4gb sticks.
Problem is that they are hard to find.
I have had excellent results with kingston data traveler 4gb usb 2.0 sticks off of Amazon as well as supertalent ones.
I also had success with kingston data traveler usb 2.0 8gb drives
I think they are version 9
What about russian hackers and ransome ware?
I don't want to pay $5 million to protect my high scores!
Oh, wait, i backed it all up!
Never mind.... lol.
Quoted from hisokajp:so the 2 shaft never connect and the slight pressure of the rubber tubbing is enough to transfer the force from the motor to the shaft and move the monkey mech? I would imagine the rubber tubbing wouldn't clamp hard enough to pull through and still rotate the long shaft and mech, am I missing something?
[quoted image]
Tightly fitted tubing acts as a universal joint.
The rod should not be tight or crusty, but should turn fairly easily.
Properly fit. It works very well and lasts years of continuous operation.
Quoted from hisokajp:hmmm they must be too much resistance or the tubing i am using is not the right side. the 2 shaft are quite different size though, motor size being much smaller than the other one.
You can get a coupling from JJP, just call them up.
Quoted from TaylorVA:My ECMB lock is hanging up again and the release times are at 250 for each lock. What are people setting their lock release times at? Thanks
My advice is to check and solve any mechanical issues before tackling the timing settings.
Check the big single screw that holds the arm and coil in place.
Reheat all the wire connections on both coils.
The arm should not move side to side.
The coil tab/adjustment should be inspected so that the magnet isnt so far away that it cant grab the arm solidly.
Properly adjusted, the balls barely make it thru and one will get away once in awhile. Or a ball will slightly touch the arm but still make it out.
Multiple tests will heat up the coil a lot.
You can actually get it to smoke.
Let it cool a bit every so often.
And just because it works in test, it may need further adjustment "in game".
It will go quite awhile before needing adjustments again.
Im seeing slight adjustments needed every 2500 to 3500 games.
Mostly coil tab adjustments.
The timings stay mostly the same.
Quoted from teddyb73:You could have just a bad cat5 cable some were too, and not a board issue.
If it's flickering on all the boards. I would replace the very first cat5 cable in the chain.
Rev 1 doesn't use cat5, but version 2 does.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Whoever said this game has no flow has to be crazy. The left outlane has more flow than two Lawlers combined.
Check you audits for left outlane vs right outlane drains.
You might level it .1 degrees towards the right to balance out the game play.
I do this all the time. I like to see mostly even drains in the audits.
Quoted from beelzeboob:Thanks, Lloyd! You're right...the decals were aftermarket and it was just an orange target. I really appreciate your help...again!
I put on the lollypop decals from JJP on my original multi-colored targets.
They are quite durable and have lasted forever.
Personally I liked the opaque colors better, but Pinballgoddess loves the swirly candy look.
Quoted from jasonbar:Swapped in a replacement (w/ the wrong bracket angle) for 15
The brackets can be peeled of and re-applied with 3M gray VHB tape.
The boards are all the same, just swap out the brackets if you have spare boards.
JJP used to sell a 5 pack.
Quoted from jasonbar:(Agreed on the boards being the same. I currently have an opposite-handed board in place now as a stand-in.)
The bracket is sandwiched between 2 PCBs, w/ tape above & below it. Do you twist it out of position to break both bonds simultaneously? I wanted to check before brute-forcing it.
I guess I could practice on my 2 broken ones before trying to adjust the new one!
Thanks,
-Jason
Go slow. Don't rip the components off the board.
It will slowly release.
Practice makes perfect.
Quoted from jasonbar:Wow, I don't know how just pulling slowly would have worked. It was stuck fast, & that tape streeeeetches!
My solution was to go in w/ a wide & rectangular-tipped X-Acto blade, bias it towards the bracket, so that it would separate the bracket from the tape (w/out gouging the PCB).
Even with that, it was a struggle to extricate the bracket.
Once removed, there was plenty of remaining sticky tape all around, so that I simply slid the bracket into its new position & it stuck fast. (That 3M tape that you mentioned costs $100+ on McMaster for a roll!)
Plus, as installed, the bracket is clamping the board's LED against the light pipe, so it won't go anywhere.
All that effort for light 15, which is under the crystal ball & hardly shows worth a darn anyway b/c the big opaque crystal ball bracket covers it up!
Back to 100% operation!
Thanks,
-Jason
The VHB tape is availble a home depot in small quantities.
Quoted from DudeRegular:Will the game boot at all without the security dongle?
The PC will boot just fine but it wont load the game code.
Quoted from DudeRegular:It looks like I do have both power supplies. The PC board is simply missing along with the USB security dongle. JP service got back to me. 299 for a motherboard/CPU/RAM combo. That is not that bad, but may be able to be sourced elsewhere for a bit less. The security dongle he said they have to check with the factory about them. So hopefully it can be replaced for a reasonable cost. I also asked that they add me to the notification list for the 2.0 light board kit.
Can the service menu be accessed without the dongle? Thinking through if I could source the PC and possibly test/troubleshoot in the even it takes a bit to source the dongle.
No.
The Dongle is mandatory. I holds the number for the game and the security for the proprietary software.
If you can prove the game number, serial number and game version, getting a replacement Dongle should not be a problem.
Generally they want the old one back before you can get a new one. But in your case it poses a unique problem.
They dont want any loose code in the wild.
Several replacement dongles have been issued due to failure or what-not.
Quoted from Nokoro:Is that possible? I assume the encryption is strong.
Everything can be copied.
Quoted from Glarrownage:So you guys are both saying that I could replace the bad board, but the root problem still exists and the only long-term fix is the $800 kit? If so, that makes sense. If you don't mind me asking, what is the root cause that causes the issue with the boards? I appreciate the responses, thank you!
I'm a little frustrated my initial inquiry to JJP years ago was brushed off when there was a known issue. But, considering this is Pinside, I'll skip the rant as I'm sure it's been expressed many times over.
Im a fairly early NIB adopter with first run 7.5v boards. I waited years to get this game.
My ECLEWOZ has had the rainbow board and 5 of the little GI boards go out, but nothing else.
I have a couple sets of 7.5 boards from 2.0 upgraders. Good cheap insurance for sure.
Its been rock solid for years.
I havent had any trouble with light boards in the last 3 years of fairly continuous play.
I may upgrade the wal-nuts under the playfield to lev-r-nuts just for future durability.
It did wonders on my Houdini.
The castle playfield however can be a menace that only patience and a few spare parts can sort out. Mostly burned out motors.
Pinballgoddess has really put it thru its paces lol.
Once its dialled in however, it works really well and is a joy to play with.
My WOZ has been a solid as any pinball machine in my small collection and always is just amazing to play.
Quoted from RTS:I thought the better insurance is having 2.0 boards.
The supply of early boards is dwindling, and old boards are not being remade.
I'd rather have the same upgrade that JJP chose to make if parts are needed in the future.
The cost of the upgrade is not wasted - it will add value because fewer people want a game with old boards.
I agree. But i have several sets of original boards and cables.
So im good to go for a long long time.
Pinballgoddess has mentioned that she might be buried in the game as she wants to take it with her to the afterlife.
Its a goddess thing... lol.
Quoted from Methos:New owner here. I have an original standard version. I've got all the issues/bugs worked out except one....
Everytime the castle flipper engages, the castle lock door also opens. When I lift the pf out and set it on the lock down bar, it still occurs, but not as much. When I lift it higher, it does not happen.
Guessing there is a short on the mini pf - started to remove it, but how do I fix it assuming the flipper mech is causing the short?
Thanks.
Sounds like a short or bad/loose wire in the harness.
Maybe a bad diode.
Quoted from TrueJedi:A friend has a WOZ Emerald. The down coil to his Winkie target is done. He said JJP won’t sell him just the mini coil part 23-3013-00. He has to buy the whole Winkie mech it’s attached to. Anyone have luck getting this coil? Or any recommendations on where to buy 23 gauge wire? Thx
I think marco or pps has the coil
Quoted from OchoFosho:Root cause of my problems with WoZ was an arc fault breaker on the circuit it was plugged into that didn't seem to like this pin. Powering up WoZ's large transformer must look like an arc to that breaker and it trips. None of my other games trip the circuit, but I bet they were close. For now I'm running it on an extension cord down the hall to an outlet with a normal breaker, but I'll be swapping out my arc fault breaker for a normal one shortly.
This type of issue may become more common as more houses are equipped with arc fault protection breakers.
You can try a variac to remove surges and stabilize the game.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:anybody got a extra ecle translite they would sell?
My ECLEWOZ has a true backglass.
Did they made any translites for it?
You might get a backglass from JJP if yours is broken.
Quoted from meSz:Not necessarily anymore as you have people making replacement boards in red. Just something to keep in mind.
Super high replacement board prices drive people to simply send them out and have them copied.
Its an amazing world when you can copy a circuit board and have it populated with parts in 1 hour (for simple single layer boards).
I was shocked to learn of this.
Chinese circular development/manufacturing is lightning fast and inexpensive.
And available in a variety of colors.
Quoted from Farmboss:Tonight I put a ball through the castle doors and it does not come out. Doors are working but it either does not recognize that the ball is in the hole or it does not want to kick it out. Anybody have had this issue?
Check the opto in the hole in switch test with a finger.
Maybe the connector is loose on the opto board or dirty opto or a wire fell off.
Quoted from Vans:Hello my crystal ball recently came detached from the bracket. Looks to be two sided tape or glue holding it before. Any advice what’s beat to use for re-attachment as it needs to be pressed against that screen for the hologram to appear correctly. Thanks.
Use this clear epoxy:
Use a dab the size of a dime.
More just splooges out everywhere.
Quoted from Jackpotjared:Hi guys, so I”ve came across an issue with the rescue doors up top on my WOZ. I first noticed that the right door was not opening and closing smoothly, like it would not close or open all the way, and it would close or open kind of side ways. Only the right door is having this issue. So I ordered a new a door motor from Jersey Jack, installed it and it’s still behaving the same. I took the whole upper Playfield off, and I don’t see any thing that stands out that would cause this issue. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks everyone!
Quoted from prentice:Thanks! Was able to narrow it down to my right castle door. It doesn't always return to its full position when closed; it stays in just a few mm, not visibily noticeable, and then it triggers as being hit during plunge.
Not sure exactly how to fix... loosening the door screw? WD-40 to the hinge? Something else?
Castle door fixes here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-castle-doors-not-closing-fully
Quoted from fossmin:Where can I find instructions on removing the castle mini playfield? Is it a lot of work?
Thanks
Its a 10 min job once you have done it.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:game is dead in the water. tried reset, jump pins, etc. sent a message to jjp help desk, said to try to reset bios and replace battery. replaced battery but have no idea how to adjust bios in the game. anybody got any vids or illustrations on how to do this?
Bios is easy.
Just set it to ignore all errors and restart normally on power loss.
But you need to attach a USB keyboard, to the back of the computer, to hit F1 or to get in for adjustments.
Does your screen come on at all?
Is it completely dead, no power, no lights?
Quoted from meSz:Apologies if this has been covered!
I am constantly having to open the machine up and reseating the RCA cables as I am losing volume on the speech. Today I turn the machine on and right off the bat the witch laughing is very faint. I open the game up, reset the left and right cables issued resolved. Almost as if over time the jacks just come loose enough enough where it effects the sound. I know the jacks and connectors are cheapies so anyone have a good fix for this?
If the game has a ground loop isolator, remove it and bypass it.
See if it improves, if so, maybe get a new one.
Quoted from prentice:My largest issue is a right castle-door problem that seems not to with the motor/screws but with the springs.
No, its probably the motor and some adjustments to be made and things to check.
Quoted from prentice:How do I open the backglass?
The glass can sit VERY tightly in the channel. Open the lock, apply firm pressure the the lift trim without breaking it off, smack the glass firmly and repeatedly with the palm of your free hand. It will start to move.
Ultimately if will work itself off.
In my opinion, Dont remove it unless you need to. Theres really nothing in the backbox that goes bad easily.
Quoted from prentice:I've ordered a ground loop isolator, but have no idea where to install it.
The speakers plug into the round green hole on the backside of the computer, just like a regular PC
Unplug the speaker wire from the back of the PC, the isolator plugs into this same green hole the speaker wire was in, then plug speaker wire into the isolator.
Quoted from LTG:If you insist and have problems. Remove screws from speaker panel. Careful with speaker wires. Then with the panel off you can figure out what is up with the backglass. Or latch on the lock.
LTG : )
Remember, mine was so tight I had to hammer it back in with a block of wood to be able to see the horses on the screen. lol.
For months I thought the monitor was too low. But it was the backglass that was too high and needed to be hammered down due to its fight fit in the channel.
Quoted from prentice:When I tightened up the left outlane bumper (easy mode), the rubber is pushed sharply up against the outlane rail, depressing the rubber. Is this OK/normal?
Yes this is normal, the flatrail can be moved away from the rubber as needed.
Quoted from prentice:I installed protectors on the 4 front plastics, but the right sling protector extends a bit into the wireform drop area, and every time ball drops it hits that protector a bit. I tried bending wireform a bit, but can't really find any position to completely eliminate that. Is it a concern? Or just something to replace later? The left one seems to maybe also have a bit of the issue, but not as much.
Sand down the edge of the protector so It doesnt interfere. Some of the protectors are too big or fit poorly.
Quoted from prentice:Monkey seems to be just slightly low and somewhat loud/grindy. Seems to rub a little bit on the bottom wood. I couldn't see an obvious way to lift it up 1-2mm. It functions, so this is low priority. I've ordered lithium grease for the metal.
Lithium grease is ok, but silicone grease is better. A little is a lot, gobs of grease doesnt do anything.
If the rod is very gummy or crusty, clean it all of with Naptha and then apply a thin coat of grease.
While you are greasing this threaded rod, grease the one that operates the witch also.
Quoted from WesleyCowan:Basically I have to jump start it thaen it starts the fans and goes through start up mode and plays after that. But jump starting every time I want to platy has become old. Anithrr board when place in Hobbit and WOZ works great. No problem. But the mothrrboard that dedicated to WOZ-- neither game can it start up without a jump start. Thanks again for suggestions so far and future ones!
Probably a bad mainboard.
Several on ebay right now:
ebay.com link: MSI H81M P33 Motherboard LGA 1150 DDR3 USB3 0 DVI VGA mATX Intel H81 100 work
Quoted from pinballinreno:Probably a bad mainboard.
Several on ebay right now:
ebay.com link: MSI H81M P33 Motherboard LGA 1150 DDR3 USB3 0 DVI VGA mATX Intel H81 100 work
Get a couple while you can.
JJP wants too much for them.
Quoted from kempsuk:Hi All
WoZ RR. When I have finished a game, the Emerald City ball lock arm doesn't raise to release the balls for the next game. When I hit start, the game does a ball search, open all other mechs, but doesn't raise the arm to release the balls. The lock arm doesn't seem to be rubbing against anything and it raises OK in a game and the test menu.
Any thoughts?
Thank you
Cold solder joints on the coils.
This causes low energy to the arm.
Quoted from kempsuk:Works during regular game play, just when I've finished the game, doesn't raise the arm for the next game.
There is a setting in the menu to control its behavior.
Empty locks etc.
Quoted from kempsuk:Re-solder the joints here on the orange wires??
[quoted image]
They look ok but it never hurts to reflow them.
Make sure the screw on top of the coil is tight.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:screen just says no signal and got about 6-8 playfield insert lights on. don't think hooking a keyboard to the screen is going to work out. its dead.
Yep, keyboard wont help if you have a blown mainboard or fuses.
The computer should boot consistantly with good power and mainboard.
Sometimes reseating the RAM will bring it to life if the RAM is loose.
Other than that it looks like the PC has a failed POST, its not starting.
Something is wrong. Mainboard, CPU, RAM or power supply related,
There are only a few parts in the PC.
Maybe try clearing the CMOS to see if it will boot after its cleared?
Quoted from WesleyCowan:On mine tried resetting the RAM, redownloading the latest software update and clearing CMOS. Maybe a board issue. Still have to jump start everything I hit the other switch to play any games.
Get one of the Ebay used mainboards.
They are fairly inexpensive right now and can be hard to get since they are discontinued from
MSI.
Quoted from DudeRegular:FYI JJP charged me 300 for a new mainboard which includes the CPU and memory.
The new ones are a different chipset which will not support the old CPU and memory.
Replacing only your motherboard will likely be much less expensive assuming your CPU and memory are still good.
CPU and RAM rarely fail. It happens but its pretty rare.
Its a good bet that a mainboard has failed leaving the CPU and RAM in good working order.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Took your advice and picked one up that’s allegedly new. Wondering if I should take the time to swap it in now to verify that it works? If it was as simple as a swap out I’d do it for sure but I don’t really want to move the cpu chip for no other reason than to test the board.
Swap the CPU and RAM. Its highly unlikely that the CPU would be damaged unless you ham-fisted it and bent a pin.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:anybody got a ecle backglass for sale?
Id get this one, small blem but youll never see it:
Quoted from Nokoro:Just one point of clarity. You can hit the red shots as well. I think you need a total of 4 made shots, either white or red, to advance to the next part. Hitting all white shots just increases the jackpot amount I believe.
Make all 5 white lit shots before hitting the witch gives a 100k award then goes to the victory multiball.
You only need 3 to melt the witch.
Quoted from WesleyCowan:Still an issue. Tried a different board but can't get any to work in WOZ or Hobbit. So two boards that won't work in either machine. One tries to start in TH but can't get past showing the bytes downloading. And 2 boards I get signal error on WOZ.
So in summary original board from TH works in both machines but I can't currently have both playable only one as have to transfer one working board. Jump starting and use of keyboard hasn't helped either.
It probably time to test the boards to see if they work at all.
I would set them on a piece of carpet, attach a PC power supply, hook up a monitor+mouse and keyboard.
Mount the CPU and RAM, start the computer by breifly shorting the power pins in the front panel area, and see if it works at all.
If you can get the computer mainboards to boot on the carpet, its likely they will work in the game.
Quoted from WesleyCowan:Sorry you had that much trouble! Do you mean you had replace the most of Mother board and the game main board! Oh my
Not sure why my game will boot up fine with Hobbit board. But not 2 others including the original WOZ and one bought on line that's same as Hobbit has in it. Guess I don't understand why it can be jump started but not start with on switch to the game.
This is simple.
Check your bios settings
Restart on ac loss.
Quoted from Baron_VonLoppnow:the rubber on the post will not fit against the metal.
Remove the plastic.
The siderail is adjustable to allow for the post to be moved.
It wont line up with the plastic, but its hardly noticable.
Quoted from meSz:Just get direct from Cliff. Will take a little time as I know he was backlogged.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/WOZ.htm
For 180 you can get the full set. If you want to go cheap the ones I know are a must are the Munchkinland playfield edge protector, the drop target protector lane guide protectors to mention a few. Others will chime in on if they feel others are a must.
Just get the complete set from Cliff.
Dont mess with plastic or tape for the munchkinland edge. Use stainless steel.
It only takes about 25 mins to install it.
Take note of the position of the screw head that ends up over the shooter lane. On early versions the ball would hit it, so it was recommended to not put it in or move it.
I believe its been moved on the latest versions
Quoted from johnnyutah:Anyone know why the latest code 7.04 US mirror on JJP website keeps coming back blocked for download? Eur works but not US mirror. I finally have some time to install the wifi dongle but need to update to latest.
The EU code is supposed to be the same.
Quoted from johnnyutah:This is all I get now. Won’t change from this.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Plug the usb stick in the rear of the computer.
Looks like its not being seen.
Cold boot with the stick in place.
It should see it and load the os from it, unless there is a problem.
Try re-doing the ISO to the usb stick with rufus.
Quoted from Sunsfan23:Noticed some wear on upper playfield. Any suggestions to prevent worsening?[quoted image]
Immediately install the cliffy for the edge.
Tape of the black with electrical tape.
Color in the missing black with a 1.5mm molotow black paint marker,
Or a fine tip black oil base sharpie paint pen.
The repair will be seamless and no one will see it.
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:Very happy to have become a member this weekend! Picked up an absolutely beautiful Ruby Red 75th edition this weekend from our local distributor. It was delivered Monday evening, and had soooo much fun playing the 4 games we had time for that night. Fired her up when I got home from work yesterday, and crap....... I fell victim to the dreaded led board failure. The entire bottom half of the playfield went dark as it was booting up. It displayed a short error message about communications and checking cables etc, but I can't retrieve that message now, as I haven't figured out if I can or not. Anyway, spent a lot of time reading here, and I will be tracking down the culprit board tonight and looking to order a new one. I called JJP, and got added to the waiting list for the 2.0 boards, ( behind quite a few others I'm sure ). With any luck, I'll find it, isolate it, and disable it so I can continue to play. Other than the board issue, which I was aware existed prior to byuing the game, I think it's a fantastic game and glad to have it in my collection!
Grab the giant hoses of wires and move them around a bit.
The lights may come on.
the wal-nut connections might be flakey.
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:Thank you guys for the suggestions. I will check them out tonight. pinballinreno , I don't understand what you mean, 'wal-nut" connections?
The harnesses are bundled together with tons of little plastic connectors called wal-nuts.
You will see them as square ends on rear of the harnesses.
Otfen the lighting in the game will go on and off if you just move the big hoses around.
This is mostly due to flakey wal-nut connections on the power or ground wires within the harnesses that go to the power supply.
But can also be loose connections elsewhere else or a wire fell off...
Its somewhat normal with this type of connection.
I replaced all of mine with lev-r-nuts to improve it.
Its a bit of work but now its more stable.
Over-all the game will be stable unless its moved around a lot.
So, if the lights go on or off when you move the hoses around, the wal-nuts may be the culprit.
Quoted from d0n:Try this... Power a WOZ off, then immediately back on, immediately off again and one more time back on. That's it. It will not turn back on the last time and you'll have to reset it.
Most computers hate it when you do this...so, dont do this at all.
If you want, just drill a hole in the side of the metal box and add a reset switch.
Quoted from Flash71:2.0 light kits are now $849.00 If and when they are available.Craziness!! I think I paid $500 over the summer when they were available. I emailed and got put on the list. Pretty sure thats the only way you’ll see one moving forward.
The kits have been $800 for a long time.
Quoted from d0n:All 2019 RR re-releases have the newer light boards. Is the wooden apron "desired" by everyone and in turn more valuable? Last I looed you couldn't even buy the updated light kit from JJP. It's still out of stock?
I'm really just trying to say the YBR and the standard WOZ games (as currently listed on pinside) DO NOT REPRESENT the entire WOZ line. Not even close.
I dont like the updated light kit.
Its too dim for me.
I do have sets of replacement boards though.
My ECLEWOZ has run perfectly since i bought it as an early adopter.
Its had a couple parts replaced, but the game looks brand new and plays like brand new too.
Im good for the next 20 years or so.
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Hey folks. I am having something weird going on with the Castle flipper. If you hold down the right flipper button, the castle flipper repeatedly keeps firing...up/down/up/down/up/down etc. It will do this as long as the button is held. The other two right flippers work fine, and don't do this.
I am blindly assuming that its trying to indicate something...maybe a fault.
Any ideas?
Thanks
One of the fine wires on the coil is broken off the solder lug. (The hold winding).
Unwrap one coil of the wire and resolder it, or bridge it with solder if you cant unwind it.
If that doesnt work out, steal a piece of wire off a dead coil and extend the wire. Put a piece of cellophane tape under the patch.
Replace the coil diodes while you are there if you want, but its not manditory. Its just buried and hard to get to.
The repair should last until you replace the coil.
It happens on flipper coils periodically.
Machine gunning...
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Thanks. It just had to be that flipper of course. Looks like the castle is coming back out.
Anyone know the gauge/turns on that coil. Maybe I can luck out with the many WB coils I have on hand.
Its simpler just to fix the wire and call it good.
Quoted from marioparty34:How fast does everyone's monkey fly? Mine takes 2.1 sec to go from castle to bottom.
I am trying figure out if I should tweak/lube it.
Thanks!
I switched to clear silicone grease on the threaded rods for the monkey and witch.
the while lithium dries out whereas the silicone does not.
Quoted from marioparty34:Must be some high end stuff. I can't find it at a normal store or on Amazon. I searched for "Sta-lube clear silicone grease".
Sorry, Super Lube or Tri-flow:
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=asc_df_B000XBH9HI/
https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU/ref=asc_df_B000C15MUU/
Home depot sells it.
Any brand will work, clear, thanslucent etc. It should just be pure silicone grease.
I just got tired of chipping off dried up lithium chunks.
Quoted from naf_llabnip:Joined the WOZ club this weekend by picking up an ECLE (#19). Is a beautiful mint-condition game, and I plan keeping it in that shape as much as possible while playing the heck out of it I have been reading this forum for a LONG time and thank everyone for all of the tips, hints, things to watch out for, etc. Only issue I had with the game was the Monkey magnet sensor. After several hours (really) of messing with it and trying a gazillion locations and orientations for the sensor, I came up with my own solution of adding thin felt sheets between the sensor and the wood playfield backing to create more distance of the sensor from the magnet, and finally I have it completely dialed in and working perfectly. It is truly a breathtaking game and is a bucket-list game for me. Will be contacting JJP to place my 2.0 light board order soon (but no issues with the 5v original boards, so at least I'm able to really enjoy it from day one).
[quoted image]
A lot of us just flipped the monkey ball sensor board over, upside down, and it fixed it.
Quoted from bobukcat:The protector does not cover the damage that occurs which is chipping of the clear / art work from the edge. Mine now has the Cliffy but the damage was done and you can clearly see the chips / missing pieces when you look at the Munchkin PF. If you have some mylar you can apply a strip of that around the edge until you get the Cliffy or Modfather (I prefer the metal Cliffy personally) installed.
Cover the chipped area with a fine black paint marker.
It looks factory, no one will see it except you...
https://www.amazon.com/Molotow-ONE4ALL-Acrylic-Marker-127-101/dp/B0044CZ0WS
Quoted from Rager170:Also, not to sound rude, but what artwork is there at that edge? I thought it was just a wooden edge and above it is the "Rainbow" plastic..
As the ball smashes the edge, the upper corner takes a beating and chips the black painted edge and a small amount of the colored artwork.
Put a little electrical tape, for a super fine line, near the area and fill it in with black paint.
A bolder line doesnt matter and you cant see it when done.
Even a 1/4" chip will fade away as part of the art.
The molotow is a perfect match and covers extremely well.
Cover it with wax during regular maintenance and the sheen will now match too.
Quoted from Rager170:Ahhh gotcha. I dont have the machine in front of me. Thought it was just the wooden edge..
What is it with that ramp that makes the balls go flying? Would love a fix. Seems like the right corner area. I almost wondered if putting a larger rubber on that post there would help?
Flipper power too high.
Balls go airborne off the Glinda target when the target is slanted back from endless beating.
I have replaced mine twice.
Some airballs will end up on the Munchkin playfield! There should be something in the code when this happens, like "Dirty Pool" on AFM.
Quoted from bobukcat:Here's a precautionary picture of what happens when not protected.
Here's a precautionary picture of what happens when it's unprotected for too long.
[quoted image]
Yep, paint it black, wax over it.
In the end it will look like a more rustic brick road, but not bad at all.
Order a new blank for when you have it out next.
Quoted from TrueJedi:Is there an easy way to get these black rubber pieces separated from the plastics and light boards? If the rubber piece breaks is the only option to buy from JJP?
[quoted image]
I push them thru by squeezing with smooth needle nose and wiggling.
Replacements are only from JJP.
Quoted from Nokoro:The hard part is putting them back in. Use a little playfield wax and twist.
I have had good results using smooth needle nose and a blunt bamboo skewer to ease in the edges.
More and more Im using bamboo skewers and the generic chopsticks as pinball tools.
Quoted from mikepmcs:I chose this option when protecting the mini playfield edge. Frost king at about 3 dollars from home depot. Color matched ok for me and was simple to install. I have a piece on the other playfield as well.
It won't be everyone's favorite but those on a budget or not comfortable removing parts and want a solution until you want to upgrade (or not in my case) this is 100% protection.
r/
Mike
[quoted image][quoted image]
Very functional, but I think it lacks artistry.
Quoted from TrueJedi:Ok, follow up to my post above. I was able to get the black rubber pieces pushed through with a small screw driver, but here’s my issue. The white connector on the board has broken as seen in the pics. What are my options? Can this connector be bought somewhere and soldered on as replacement? Or do I need to buy a new board? JJP tech was helping me (ie follow the daisy chain), but since I found this issue won’t respond for the last month despite 3 emails. http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/W10-.html
[quoted image][quoted image]
The broken plastic will not keep the connector from functioning as long as the headers are soldered onto the pc board properly.
Its simply a locking mechanism to keep the connector attached when in use and give it a modicum of support..
A dab of hot glue or a bit of shrink tube across the plugged in connector will hold it securely for an indefinite amount of time.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Helping a friend with an early woz stuck ball problem. On slow rolls up left orbit the ball is getting stuck. It’s under mini pf and when I look up from Left side I can’t see ball. When I look from above right I see a rollover switch but the ball is further down out of sight. So it’s literally in a 2 inch area you can’t see from Either direction. Anyone else have this happen.
Is taking the mini pf off a pain? If it was removed I could see exactly where ball is stuck Thx!
Its an odd behavior.
A rubber ring gets rolled up out of its notch in the post and end up resting on the plastic.
You can reach it with fingers, push it back into its notch.
What happens is that with the rubber sitting high, a corner appears that the ball comes to rest on.
The rubber is the ring below the slingshot.
The edge is on the right side.
It took me years to figure it out lol, as its hidden from view.
I always thought it was the mylar edge, its not.
I only discovered it when i has the mini playfield out and just happened to notice it.
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Okay there is weird stuff going on with the Crystal Ball images:
-WOZ title image has snow in the image
-JJ image is crystal clear
-Skill shot image has snow in the image (attached below)
-Colored Horse is crystal clear
-Witch image is crystal clear
Sure seems to me that if some images are correct, then the "projector" should be good. If they were all dorked, I would then lean toward the projector. I have stroked the 4-pin connector behind the projector, and down on the driver board under the PF. I have stroked the SD card too, but the partial bad images remain. Is this an issue with the SD card? Could it have lost some data?
So what the scoop on this Crystal Ball issue?
Could be the cable, could be corrupted images on the SSD.
Back up the settings and do a full install of the OS.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Don’t follow. I can’t reach it with upper pf on. It’s 4/5 inches either way and I can’t see it
Get to it from the sling area above.
Try removing the plastic. To get in there.
You don't have to remove the mini pf.
But now that i think about it, you have to remove the plastic.
Quoted from billsfanmd:which plastic? maybe post a stock photo of the plastic area? thx for any help
Oops! Sorry I misread your post, this fix was for the hang under the right orbit.
Ball hangs under the castle are mostly from a wire hanging down or a uncut zip tie from the last time the castle was removed.
I had it happen several times.
Even though I try to get everything tied up, gravity can cause wire bundles to drift downwards and barely scrape a ball.
It causes low inertia shots to hang up.
Its a PITA but pull it off and tighten up all the wires closer to the wood.
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Ironically I did a full install last week when something got hosed. It had the problem before the install, and now after as well. I can do a continuity check on the cable.
How does once go about checking or replacing the images on the SD card?
Looks exactly like a failing OLED mini display board.
But might just be the cable or connector end.
Quoted from jedimastermatt:Since getting our games all in our newly converted garage into a dedicated game room, I’ve spent more time with our games. Today, after several years of trying - I finally melted her. Ding dong, the witch is dead.
I’ve been slow close on many, many occasions (1 or 2 shots) away; but, it always felt like luck instead of any for, of skill that got me there.
Since the new room was put into service and it required all of the games to be re-leveled (and some the steepness increased), I took this opportunity to relearn many of the agaves in my collection. WoZ has proven to be no different. Previously, my tactic for Battle the Wicked Witch was all about getting the balls immediately under control and then trying to be very meticulous with my shots. While I felt that my time in the battle mode was decent, a bad sling bounce or hit off of the Glinda target would be my undoing.
Since the new room move, my re-evaluation of my tactics caused me to realize that although I could potentially lengthen the elapsed time in the mode cradling up right away - I was wasting the potential of the ball saver. So, I adjusted my style to immediately take whatever I had in play and try to hit as many shots as I could.
This seemed to be making a difference as in the last several days, I have been within 2-3 shots several times. Today, I played exactly 3 games. Game one got to 2 shots away. Game two was a bust. Game three… started great. Got to the witch on my last ball and got to the last shot and proceeded to miss the shot off the right playfield and hit too late and the ball went into the forest. Needless to say, I was frustrated and decided to refocus. I took a deep breath and started to chop away again.
Still on my last ball, I got Rescue MB going (still the hardest of the 4 requirements for me to get consistently because of the loop resets of the target). With Rescue MB going, got the locks for Emerald City and then with it running, got Munchkin. Then it was just a matter of Fireball and the next thing I knew - she was lit again.
This time, I got 3 shots out of the way all before the ball saver was off. Then got things under control and hit the last requirement and then kept my cool as it took 3x of Castle locking before I could get a clean shot up the ramp. I then missed again too late on the shot. Locked up on the castle and this time, a clean ramp shot and a conscious “shoot early” mandate in my mind made all the difference.
So, this was my journey to the easy wizard mode. Now, I can aim a bit higher and shoot for the rainbow.
If anyone else is struggling out there - stay with it. It’s obtainable. Just keep plugging away.
I still need to get better with hitting the crystal ball and throne room. I also need to finally solve where I’m getting all my air balls on the ramp. Some are from Glinda; but, others are I think from the right side. I’ll need to get the phone out on high frame rate on a tripod and see if I can capture it and fix it once and for all.
What an amazing game. It’s still rewarding after all this time. There is nothing like stacking a few modes and watching the points come exponentially.
Great game and great write up!
Quoted from beelzeboob:No. I haven't even configured that stuff...no interest. I'll have to reinstall and see if that fixes it.
I did not take the latest couple of updates.
My game plays perfectly.
I couldnt care less about scorbit, wifi etc.
I put it on my hobbit and am thinking of downgrading to get rid of it...
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Yes but the EOS harness goes through that hole - most of the wires harnesses go through the bigger hole, only two or three go through the other hole I circled - what often happens is that the end coming off of the EOS switch - the pigtail - catches underneath and doesn't drop cleanly through the hole. But it should be reachable through there.
Looks like an opto board connector.
How long is the wire, the length often tells you where it goes, as its only so long...
Unless it goes the the castle playfield and mistakenly got down thru the hole.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:None of our opto boards use connectors like that - they're almost all 4-pin for the optos themselves or power or longer for switch harnesses.
Plus the opto board connectors have a color dot on them...
Quoted from Rager170:Another question. I need to replace the rubber that is for the OZ lanes. The manual calls for a 2" black rubber, but mine from factory is white.
Can anyone confirm what it should be?
I use the white latex one, not a Titan urethane they are too thick.
The white came that way from the factory. Later editions might have a black one.
White doesnt have the life span of the black rubber, but its more bouncy.
Since its smart to lower the kicker strength there, you can get a little more action on the white rubber.
Another anomaly is the outhole center post.
My Hobbit game came with a urethane ring there. No other urethane in the game.
It makes sense since it gets a ton of abuse.
Im on my second set of rubbers. I bought complete rubber kits from JJP when I ordered my game. this kit was amazing and very well priced at the time.
Still it was missing the rubber standoffs for the plastics. These are a must have if you make an order from them, like spare Castle motors.
Now, the rubber kits are stupidly priced at their store, and they may not be complete.
I have since, replaced all the mini post rings with urethane. The ones under the witch were breaking continuously.
Titan black mini post rubbers are excellent, though they can be a tight fit.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Pretty sure those are standard, universal rod/ring assemblies you could order from any of the usual parts sources.
They are the removable ring type like on Data East, not the regular williams or Stern riveted rod and ring type generally used.
You can replace broken rings from the top without disassembling the unit. I have replaced a couple, it was super easy with this setup.
The rings might be the same as the DE ones, I havent tried them.
The rods are threaded on both sides for nylock nuts or stand-offs.
Its simpler the just get a few rings, rods and stripped hex stand-offs (Woz tree supports) from JJP.
Go to 16:32 in this video you can see the nylock nuts that hold the ring on.
All the parts are listed in the manual.
But in JJP's infinite wisdom, the parts computer part numbers dont match the manual. Genuis!
They have become somewhat adept at figuring it out on their end when you call.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Thanks for the correction!
Others might have the same idea, its best to clarify things.
Quoted from d0n:Actually no, mine was sort of hiding on the bottom left of the front of the cabinet. I found it now. DOH!
They switched the location to the lower left of the cab to save money on doors...
Quoted from Rager170:Now if you or anyone else can find a way to make the headphone volume louder, that would be great. On the loudest setting, its just not quite loud enough for me...
Im using a headphone amplifier to bring out the bass and try to get better sound thru my headphones.
There are many out there but the FiiO ones are a good price and work well enough.
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-A3-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00Z9BIODA
Quoted from adol75:You could probably use a headphone amplifier, but you will need to check on the motherboard if there is a line out output next to the headphone output and plug the amplifier there.
the little portable ones just plug in "in-line".
Mine works pretty good.
Mostly you just want the bass boost feature. It really makes a difference.
For a permanent solution, there are tons of EQ's/AMPs out there you can wire up, that have external power.
I just wanted one that I could move from game to game, as I have headphone jacks on all of my games.
Quoted from d0n:I've owned my RR WOZ 2019 re-release for about a year and NEVER tried headphones until tonight. WOW! What a difference! I could hear everything... even the flying moneys chattering! Amazing. If you have never tried headphones, go do it!
I'm not sure why so many people say the volume isn't loud enough. I put it as high as it goes and it was way too loud. There must be a big change in volume capabilities when JJP started using this newer headphone jack and volume control.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Always the headphone volume was linked to the main volume.
Quoted from Rager170:yea maybe. My headphone jack doesn't look like that. And mine does not go loud enough.
I actually dont remember the headphone volume coming up on the screen either. Maybe I overlooked it.
On the original games, the headphone volume has led light indicators, in the upper right corner of the coin door, by pushing the button.
You can raise the volume up or down. It doesnt indicate on the screen, however main volume affects the headphone volume.
Cranking up the game volume will raise the headphone volume.
Im using a headphone amplifier because I didnt like the disparity between the loud game volume and the headphone volume.
I would rather leave the game volume alone and just adjust the headphone amp.
One of the buttons mutes the game speakers.
You can also get headphones with volume adjustment on them.
A headphone amplifier will also give you gain adjustment if you get that feature on it.
Big powerful headphones might need amplification if they dont gave a gain feature.
Quoted from Rager170:Yes, i have the same volume jack with the LED indicators as well like you mention. But, what exactly is the point of cranking up the machine volume while using the headphones? Wouldnt the point of headphones be so that you turn down the actual game volume so others dont hear it?
The headphones I have do have a volume setting but again, still dont go high enough.. Close, but not enough.
Yes, you advised me on the headphone amplifier the other day but it would just be so much easier to do it in game somehow.
you mute the game speakers by hitting the mute button.
Oddly the insertion of the headphone into the game does not automatically mute the game speakers like on other equipment
Also the game does not save the coin door settings if you power down the game.
So, use the coin door mute button if using headphones.
Quoted from Rager170:Ok, so let me get this straight..
The trick is, to jack up the game volume, then mute it and the headphones should be where I want them.. essentially?
If thats true, it sounds like horrible programming for the headphones lol.
It "is" what it is...
While muted, the inside door volume control will give you more control than the up and down button on the outside volume adjustment control.
Deal with it or get a headphone amp.
I bought an amp. But I wanted more bass as well as gain.
Quoted from Rager170:haha i hear ya. Thanks.
Another question just to understand. So, with the headphones plugged in, I can increase the headphone volume, using the volume controls inside the machine, while muted.?
yes, try it.
Quoted from Rager170:Will do. Thanks again for the help.
Are you saying that the volume up and down buttons above the headphone jack have no affect?
I find that they are sufficient and produce plenty of volume.
I have pretty good Sennheiser phones but still I wanted a bit more bass.
Quoted from MrMikeman:Both the inside AND outside volume adjustments have an effect. So what's being said is that if you are maxed out on the outside controls and your headphone volume is still too low, just open the door and increase the game volume with the inside buttons. Just remember that when you unmute it may be loud as heck.
this is very true.
More on this issue here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-low-headphone-volume
Again, I bought a headphone amp and all is well in the world.
I move it from game to game and never adjust the games main volumes.
Quoted from delt31:So I’ve never seen this before. For the life of me, I can’t get these nuts off of these black screws. I’ve installed this fire pot mod 4 times and never seen this.
I can hold the nuts and I can turn the screws to the left. Screw is moving fine and the nut not going anywhere. Problem is the nut doesn’t come off. I tried the opposite way, sprayed wd40, still nothing
Anyone have any suggestions on getting these screws out? After an hour and a half I’ve given up
[quoted image][quoted image]
The threads are stripped on the cheap black screws.
It happens a lot on the low grade chinese "soft" steel.
You need to pry up on the screw or the nut while turning to get to a new thread.
I usually force my small diagonals (or micro flush cutter) under the screw head or the nut while turning the screw and hold the nut with a nut driver.
In this case I would try the diagonals under the nut as it will hold it from turning maybe.
Yes it looks like it takes 3 hands, but maybe not.
You can also dremel it off but it might melt everything (not advised at all!!!)
Quoted from hlaj78:Hack saw
Put a wet paper towel on the inside, on the backside of the nut.
Slice it through the center vertically, with a dremel fiberglass wheel, to cut the nuts into 2 halves?
Using diagonals has never failed me though.
Quoted from darkryder:Just clamp those nuts with vice grips on the back and use the correct nut driver on the front to break them loose. Replace the damaged nuts, if necessary. Be careful not to scratch or break the plastic
Screws are stripped in the nuts.
Maybe use needle vise grip to lock onto the nut, to pull on it while turning the screw.
Quoted from delt31:Tried with needle nose players to hold it but didn’t work. It’s so small hard to get a bigger grip. Do you think it’s best to do it that way (grip it and pull away while turning the screw the opposite way)? I guess I’ll try that first method which sounds like I push up on the screw or nut while turning screws and holding that nut.
Yes, I think thats the best approach.
Using diagonals, with their angled cutting edges, works the best for me, as it puts continuous pressure in an upward motion to try to get a new thread started.
Plus, you can lean into it with the tool to get a little more upwards pressure.
The only pliers I can think to use are the Vampliers.
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-International-Vampliers-Portable-Extraction/dp/B006YJKAPQ
Quoted from darkryder:Worst case, bust out the Dremel with carbon fiber cutoff wheel. Will slice through those nuts like butter. Be ultra careful as a Dremel can easily take your finger off
It may also get hot, melt the plastic and slip and ruin the artwork if not extremely careful.
Tape everything with 2 or 3 layers of masking tape in case of slips.
Quoted from pinballjah:Should a WOZ Ruby Red reset in terms of lifetime plays with a code update? Manufactured in 2017. Thanks for the assistance.
Backup your settings and scores before doing any updates.
Its quick and easy. I back up my scores every time I beat them.
The smaller "up" coil is not listed as a part, but its a standard magnet core coil used in lots of areas, like the latch to the doors and the lockdown arm actuator. Maybe its the same as those?
But it is listed as part of an assembly as was noted.
JJP might have a reference to it on their computer.
However the big "drop" coil is a standard coil
Quoted from TigerLaw:Is this a good price for a physical manual? $200?
https://coinoppartsetc.com/product/games-parts-manuals-and-schematics/jersey-jack-wizard-of-oz-pinball-machine-game-operations
Not really.
I printed it out on my color printer on heavy glossy legal size paper at work, then went and had it spiral bound at fedex/kinkos for $45. Maybe more these days.
The paper cost the most and it did take a bit of toner, but didnt drain the carts.
Tip: print it at work so they can write off the office supplies.
Quoted from TigerLaw:Are they all the same size pages? I know some manuals have schematics and what not that make them different size pages and harder to bound at home.
Yeah, its just long and big paper. The actual manual flips up on the long edge, but I just bound it on the right edge.
I just selected landscape, fit to page/double sided, on the printer so it would take the slightly smaller legal size.
It was confusing to me to get the "upside down" and "right side up" for odd and even pages to get it to flip up.
Im sure it could be done easily, i just didnt want to fool around with it.
At kinkos tell them to do the standard plastic clear cover and black back cover in legal size if they have it.
Quoted from delt31:Just to circle back in this in the event others come across this in their game - nothing really worked until I used very sharp angled cutters and just snapped the nut and screw off while protecting the plastic. Worked in both with no issues. Thanks guys
I had to replace my screws after installing the Mezel mods flame pots. They were crap.
I just painted them with an oil based sharpie marker.
Quoted from TigerLaw:Eleven and half hours later…got all the Cliffy’s all installed and replaced some rubbers with polyurethane bands and fixed the damn monkey that hasn’t worked for the entire five years I’ve had this game. Also installed hot air balloon mod, melting witch, bigger crystal ball, side art, and under cab lighting…oh, and the sub woofer! Ha! [quoted image][quoted image]
Nice work, its an incredible game!
Quoted from RTS:The coil reset assembly part number was given to me when I called JJP directly:
JJP Part Number 51-005020-00
Pinball life looks like it has the same part.
https://www.pinballlife.com/drop-target-knockdown-assembly-left.html
That looks exactly right.
Quoted from adol75:I have the data connector to the crystal ball that got off yesterday while playing, it's the one that's glued to the board behind the ball. I put it back but I should probably glue it.
How do you take off the glue that's already on it, and is there a specific type of glue I should use after ?
Thanks
Its hot glued on. Just scrape the old glue off with a plastic razor blade and re-hot glue it.
Quoted from PinStalker:I hope they release another edition of this game.
Ultra limited "Blue Gingham" edition with custom blue and white checkered armor but now missing the 27" display, monkey, castle playfield, munchkinland playfield, and a new smaller display installed instead.
Limited to 250 units
$16995 get it while they last!
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:anybody have issues with the doors not opening on the upper playfield, looks like i'll have to remove upper playfield to access mechs. doesn't look like a fun job either. just had to change out a dead power supply which i had to cut and splice some connectors then this happens next day. ugghhh.
If the problem is not a fuse or broken/loose wire see how it functions in test mode.
In test you should hear clicking or whining of the motors if you have power.
Solve power issues before moving forwards on this.
Removing the castle playfield is quick and easy, follow the instructions near exactly from the manual.
Most of us that have done it can remove and replace in 15 mins.
Read up on this thread about castle door not opening:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-castle-doors-not-closing-fully
I just put these little coolers in:
They were super easy to install, however getting to the power tap connector is a big reach behind the rear of the playfield.
Its best and easiest to run the wire first with the playfield against the backbox and then lower it to the service position to install the fans.
Otherwise its quite a reach to install the fan screws. Much easier to just install the fan under the game as there are only 2 screws.
I ended up reaching the connector with one arm behind the playfield and the other in front of it (with the playfield leaning on the backbox) to effectively be able to seperate the molex connector to install the provided tap.
The provided wires and connectors are very high quality and snap together tightly.
I routed my wire along the main harness (big black hose) easily and used about 12 zip ties to get all the wires cleanly out of the way.
The fans really work well and they are super quiet!
No flipper fade, the flipper remain very powerful during the longest multiballs and the longest games.
In my opinion, you really need these on your game, they actually work.
Quoted from TigerLaw:I’m trying to make my left Outlane not such a total drain. I can’t move the post in due to where the rail is. [quoted image][quoted image]Any ideas?
Remove the plastic, you will see that the flatrail is designed to go out more as the tab is supposed to be slotted, if not, dremel a slot into it.
The plastic wont line up as well, but its hardly noticable,
And yes the rubber gets a little compressed but it doesnt seem get cut after 1000's of plays.
Grease the monkey threaded rod as will as the witch threaded rod with silicone grease if you havent already.
A little goes a long way, it doesnt need gobs of grease falling into the cabinet.
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:He said he called JJP and confirmed it was ECLE. Just an early version… I dunno. Seems really weird.
Its an early standard. They had number stickers on them for the first few.
Consider them production samples with the early 1.1 (unbuffered) or even 1.0 electronics etc.
There are no ECLEWOZ games without the correct armor and wooden apron unless the armor was damaged and replaced with stainless, which is unlikely since JJP has the replacements parts.
So, early production ECLEWOZ it is not, its merely a early standard. They even had direct print cabinets on some of them.
Quoted from TigerLaw:I think I’m going to cut off about an eighth of an inch off the rail. It’ll totally free up the other post slot. Has anyone else tried to do it that way (ie shaving off some of the rail)?
I shaved my flatrail off with a dremel and filed it off clean so it would fit under the plastic and not rub on the rubber.
So, yes 
Quoted from monkfe:So what actually fails on the early light boards? ...I believe I have the 7.5 boards and I'm noticing that the five leds at the center of the playfield (yellow brick road) are sometimes not the correct color as the surrounding leds...Is this an indication of failure? or a bad connection somewhere
Go into lamp test and go through the colors.
If one of the colors is wrong, you have a bad rgb chip or diode or controller on the board.
Its a common failure. you can fix it if you can get the part (discontinued?), but you can also replace the board if you can find a used one.
Other than that, YES, the color on the board doesnt match the other LEDs (they are a little dimmer), it's normal.
Quoted from WW2GURU:Im looking for info on invisiglass markings/etchings that were supplied as factory glass on JJP machines back in 2013+. I was reading about it here https://www.pinballnews.com/learn/glass/index.html
Does anyone have an example they can check and post a picture of the markings as I'm trying to verify that a piece of glass I have is
or isn't Invisiglass as was reported to me.
Thanks
Jersey Jack logo etched in one of the corners for invisiglass.
Quoted from monkfe:Ok...so it seems "white" if the color that's off a bit...here's a pic...so is this slight yellowing normal then?
[quoted image]
Do all the colors work in lamp test?
Quoted from LTG:FUCK
Since your first 6 inserts are yellow and the rest are clear. YES
Lol...!
Quoted from iamabearsfan:Have a WoZ LE, in the 400's (I will look up the # when I get home). This unit had the really nice side art as well as the 2nd gen light boards. No issues at all to speak of. Some mods, nothing crazy.
Looking for a range of value. I have been the only owner.
Thoughts?
Dave
Check the pinside market page.
Quoted from lschmidlin:meSz Pinballomatic. Shoot, I felt so good about your direction and pushing the start button but to no avail. But it did help me to understand the RCA cables and board much better, so thanks for that. It would’ve taken me hours.
I then reseated all the RCA cables coming into the box and sound board, but callouts are still barely audible. Now that I understand the location of all this better, I’ll go back and try again tomorrow, along with checking the speaker connections. I’ll keep you posted but keep the hints coming.
Thanks again.
Replace or bypass and then replace the ground loop isolator (black cube thing that the speaker wire plugs into) in-line with the speaker cable off of the computer.
Bypass it and see if there is a change. If so, then order a new one off of Amazon.
Quoted from LTG:I've spoken with crazypinballguy. He's in good hands with him and his friend Steve.
I doubt they'll have any more questions, if they do I'll help.
Lloyd, you are just too kind and the best person ever!
JJP needs you back...
Quoted from LTG:Anytime my friend. We both want you to be able to enjoy your game.
LTG : )
JJP is missing out completely on your services....
Come on JJP, get some balls...
Quoted from TZBen:Tech issue: my game hasn't been run in a while. I recently turned it on and this screen greeted me. Is this the button battery reset issue? What are my steps to get back on the yellow brick road.
thanks
[quoted image]
Looks like it.
Quoted from SlapDrain:You won't find coil coolers kits for woz or hobbit unless you look elsewhere. Woz absolutely benefits from coil coolers. I have a temp chart for woz in my listing.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1391-ravspec
These coolers are simple to install and WORK perectly.
Also they are very quiet, almost silent.
Quoted from TheShadowsNose:DO you have an opinion on 2 flipper vs 3 flipper for these fans? Is a fan really necessary for the 3rd flipper?
2 flippers is enough in my opinion.
Quoted from TheShadowsNose:Just reassembled the top side after doing a deep clean and came up with this message “Check matrixes switch #24, Left orbit enter stuck open”.
Anyone know how to reset this switch or what may be causing the error?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Do you have the manual?
Quoted from LTG:If it kicks the ball up and it goes back down. It's hitting the flap at the top end of the ball trough ( right side if you are standing on the side watching it ) that should divert it to the shooter lane.
If so, bend it out a little so it sends the ball to the shooter lane.
LTG : )
Yrp, bend the adjustment tab a litte until it feeds properly.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Maybe my switch blades need to be bent better
Yeah, its a terrible location, but if you get the lower one gapped closer it will work way better.
Quoted from pinstyle:Does anyone know where I can find the transparent sparkle red flipper bats that came on the emerald city games? Both mine are cracked. JJP has as set with the slippers installed but they are around $35 and I just need the bats. I am going to email them to see if they will just sell the bats but I am just wondering if maybe I missed a place that might have them. I looked everywhere.
Glue the slippers back on with CA gel glue.
Or cut them off and put them on other bats. They are taped on with VHB tape.
The new bats are not sparkly.
They are black with slippers taped on the tops.
Im surprised that someone hasnt 3d printed them.
The sparkly flipper bat plastic was too brittle and was discontinued.
PPS used to have them on their site.
Quoted from LTG:Not always. I still have them in my machine and over 9 years in commercial use still intact.
One slipper did pop off. I didn't clean it or the flipper top. I put a bead of super glue along the top, pressed it back on. Still there.
LTG : )
Yeah, they werent that bad, or at least not bad enough to discontinue them.
Pinballgoddess has broken all 3 of the original bats. The replacements are holding up well enough.
But I bought a few sparkly sets from PPS when they were available, after getting black ones from JJP.
She is more than happy with the sparkle!
Quoted from insight75:The screen above is happening when I power the machine on without a USB drive installed. So if this happens with the USB drive installed it likely just isn't recognizing that particular drive. I've tried at least 6 different types of USB drives so I don't think that is my issue. I took out the hard drive, installed it in my PC and it is working. So I don't think the hard drive is my issue. It there a way to install the updated image software directly on to the hard drive?
The USB stick is the issue.
I have at least 20 that dont work.
The best success on being 100 percent all the time:
4gb or 8gb USB 2.0 stick from supertalent.
2nd: Kingston 16gb usb 2.0 stick.
The game really likes the USB 2.0 sticks.
USB 3.0 sticks of the older versions from kingston seem to work ok.
I also had to replace the USB cable that goes to the front of the game.
I found this after putting the stick directly into the back of the PC and it worked.
Quoted from insight75:I tried a few more USB drives this morning. An 8gb and a 16gb. Still not working. I have a few more coming tomorrow to try.
Is there a way to get in to a command prompt? I hooked up a USB keyboard and tried F2 and ESC on startup and can't get anything. The same continues to happen on the screen as posted above.
You should be able to hit delete on the keyboard to enter the CMOS.
Dont make any changes.
This would prove that the usb is working.
Quoted from insight75:No key works except enter but maybe the keyboard is not compatible.
If the USB was an issue, wouldn’t I just be able to remove it and boot the previous code?
If enter works, then the usb sees the keyboard.
So, it looks like the USB is working.
All thats left is to get a compatible usb stick.
And follow instructions exactly.
Quoted from insight75:Here is the new motherboard from JJP I just installed if this helps.
[quoted image]
that looks like a great little mainboard!
the only thing missing is NVME support. With an I5 and a NVME drive, the WOZ boot times would be super fast!
What is the model number on it?
Quoted from Skyemont:Is 12k the avg price for a RRWOZ w/ 7.5 light boards?
It seems to be in the range since it has the monkey!
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:What are most folks doing with their old boards and wiring once they install their 2.0 kits? Trying to figure out what to do with mine.
DONT LISTEN TO GRB1959 ! ! ! !
Send them to me! Ill pay the shipping! (i could use a spare set of boards... especially a rainbow one...)
Quoted from PinballHelp:Seriously... I just noticed it. I assume this had been festering for a bit.. when I pulled the backglass off, I noticed stress cracks at every corner.
If you have an EC LE, check your backglass... you may find some small cracks in the corners... once they become big enough, the BG just starts to quickly un-peel off the glass.
I probably could have stopped this if I had noticed it before but I didn't, and I do think it kind of un-peeled pretty quickly once a tiny crack got wide enough.
Triple Thick will probably slow this down.
Tempered glass can explode on the shelf with no stress on it at all.
It has to do with imperfections and inperfect heating and cooling during the process.
Internal stresses build and bust the glass.
Mazda recalled thousands of windshieds due to random cracking. It ended up being improper cool down at the glass factory.
Quoted from deejaypee:Hi, people! New to the club as of last night! I searched for a fix but am not finding anything, and while I hate coming to a party with problems, here I am. I have discovered two things.
1. Throne Room VUK works fine but it isn’t registering when the ball is in there. I can’t make the opto activate in switch tests. Cleaned the opto, followed the wires back to a board and reseated the connector, but no dice get.
2. Also the twister upper PF… the ramp in switch works, second ramp switch works, but the diverter doesn’t divert the ball when you’ve spelled rainbow for twister loop. Actually, even when you haven’t spelled rainbow, it goes through the munchkin huts and gets stopped by the holding bar until we go into ball search. I don’t see a switch under the huts. Maybe there’s a third switch that tells the game a ball is on the ramp that isn’t working, so the diverter doesn’t get told to go down and the hut holder arm doesn’t know to release? Something is awry…
I’ll keep working at it, but I figured I’d toss in here and see if anyone’s experience saves me a headache.
Thanks!
Does the diverter work in test?
Quoted from chaz009:Haha. To confirm it’s his pics. A request by me.
I need to know the size make and model of the shoe please...
And if its a mod, where do I buy it...
Quoted from LTG:Old guys like me, well known in the industry and hobby, aren't needed anymore.
Bullshit.
Quoted from LTG:Come on. It was funnier than my Stern Pinball Alley joke.
LTG : )
Still its bullshit.
People like you are the best of the best.
Decades of experience, freely given, is impossible to get anywhere but here.
JJP in its infinite wisdom is taking a much harder road without you.
Pinside is VERY fortunate that you continue to contribute in spite of circumstance.
Keep up the excellent work!
Jokingly or not, I had to say something.
Quoted from SkyKing2301:Some folks have been clicking their heels together wishing for this button for a long time, and I finally got around to it -- WOZ 3D start button from Rocket City Pinball!
[quoted image]
This design is based on the red & yellow brick roads spiraling together in Munchkinland:
[quoted image]
The matte red and yellow pieces are thin enough to allow them to glow when lit. The gaps left between the pieces are representative of the gray sections separating the red & yellow roads in the film; these gaps (and center) light up brightly through the clear/white filament used to print the base. The red and yellow pieces are printed separately and then integrated into the assembly during a mid-print pause. (Fun detail that you can only see in person -- I jussssst slightly over-squished the first layer of the red & yellow pieces, which causes my textured glass print bed to leave an impression of tiny squares on the surface, creating the illusion of little bricks!
Simple "START" text wouldn't do for this one -- instead, it reads "Off to see The Wizard" in WOZ themed font, printed in a sparkly green to represent the Emerald City.
[quoted image]
Now available in my shop: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/07274-3d-start-button-wizard-of-oz
I like the buttons a lot, but I would like them better if the fronts were smooth and glass-like for cleaning purposes.
It looks like it will catch a lot of dust and grime.
Quoted from deejaypee:I have removed the I/O board and checked it for debris beneath it or on it, and checked the fuses, didn’t find anything untoward. Maybe if I unplug things one at a time while it’s on it’ll clue me into a cluster? Or is that a no-no? Maybe unplug them one at a time and reboot each new unplug?
I removed the castle playfiled and set it on a box under the fully raised playfield.
Plugged in all the connectors so I could look at it in action.
Now one can basically unplug one connector at a time until you can see the affected circuits live and "hands on".
This was very informative as I could see it in action and plug/unplug connectors at will, to troubleshoot and take voltage measurements.
Unplugging from the castle playfield allows one to trace back the wires to their corresponding circuit boards.
Quoted from TheShadowsNose:guessing folks just use some silicone grease is fine for this?
Yes its perfect, lube the monkey all-thread at the same time.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:best way to get the mini playfield off to reach underneath. both door gates quit working and this looks like a major pain in the ass just to access underneath upper playfield. ive probably done 40 shop jobs, but this looks like a whole other beast compared to bally/williams. thinking taking off backboard and monkey mech slide might look the easiest. anybody have to tackle this yet?
Follow the removal instructions in the manual.
Its near perfect.
After doing it once you will see that its a 7 min job nd even faster to re-install it.
I have removed and replaced the castle playfield in 15 mins to tie up a loose wire that was hitting the ball.
Its much easier than it seems.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:unfortunately i only have the cd, with no way to play it.
I guess you will have to download it and view it on a PC or print it out.
I printed it out at work on long paper that they had and used their toner.
I had it spiral bound at the kinkos/fedex for $3 plus $2 for plastic covers.
https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/downloads/
I printed it in black, but if you can get laser color, so much better!
They wanted $75 to print it out for me....I said no thanks...
OR,buy the $100 manual from JJP its really nice.
Quoted from deejaypee:Great suggestions! I’m not going to try them though and here is why:
During this month of the woz being unplayable, as I pored over every single switch, solder, wire, and diode, I got a few error notices that I fixed while I was going over the game again and again. Nothing big, the castle playfield eos wasn’t registering, the plumb bob wasn’t registering, etc. After nearly a month of this and 8 hours on Saturday, I took Sunday off and reflected that at least I’d taken care of a couple of things during this time. Then I remembered that I’d also gotten a wifi communication error a couple of times but didn’t sweat it because, well, what did I care about Scorbit when I couldn’t even play the game?
THEN it dawned on me that the matrix switches were communicated from the I/O board to the motherboard by USB, and of course the wifi dongle is USB, and I figured what the heck, so last night I went down and unplugged the wifi dongle and turned the game on.
No more problems. Even the flickering lights were solid again. On the chance that it was a fluke, I let it be and tried it a few times today. Everything is perfect. It looks like all my constantly triggering switches and flickering lights were caused by some communication mixup brought on by my wifi dongle.
I have the one everyone here recommends—the TP-Link Nano AC600 USB Wifi Adapter. I’m glad it works for most of us, but if you ever start having crazy problems in your game, yank that sucker and see if everything goes away!
Apologies and thanks to everyone who helped this past month. The woz is back in business!
Wow!
Awesome find!
Quoted from WarriorPin:Rebuilt 4 of 5 flippers (coil stops, sleeve, plunger and crank assembly, springs). Love how the my WOZ shoots now. The 5th (castle flipper) requires removing the castle playfield. Looked at the lengthy instructions for doing so, is it as involved as it appears? Is it worth rebuilding that flipper (it iis not super critical to the game and functions well at the moment).
Its worth cleaning the coil sleeve and inspecting the mech when the castle playfield is out.
But since the mech doesnt get a lot of stress from high speed rebounds and such, It will outlast the other mechs by a large margin.
My game gets a lot of play, Ive rebuilt the flippers 4 times, the munchkin one once, the castle...never.
I did pull the coil stop and inspected it for wear and it looks like new after all this time.
The flippers get trashed a lot due to the many extended multiballs.
Quoted from LTG:And more recently I have had a few coils that were in fact dead. I didn't tear them apart to see what happened. This is something I haven't run into in all my years until this year.
I think the copper in the wire isnt as good as it used to be.
It seems brittle and less malleable.
I imagine this is due to the huge rise in copper prices.
So, I think we might see an increase in open/broken coil wires.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Guess this is topical..
It would be best if you came up with ideas on your own.
It would enrich the hobby.
But i imagine you also dont have the rights to the music and vocals in your sales pitch either.
So. I guess "rip everyone off" that you can.
Quoted from PinDeadHead:Hi. I installed the Mezel mods lit Winkie target and the front of it rubs on the side of the playfield hole, I tried adding the plastic wedges in between the screws but no help.
Any ideas how to bend/adjust the target plastic or mech to move this towards center of the hole?
Thanks![quoted image]
Is it assembled correctly? It looks like its way off and it shouldnt be. Maybe assembled wrong?
Since the drop target is the same as the original black one, AND the original wasnt installed that way, Check your work.
For small adjustments:
Bend the entire metal mech (Pull it towards the front of the game) forwards.
You only have to tweak it a small amount to free it up.
Other than that, loosen the mounting screws and press it back as far as possible.
If that fails, pull out the mech and elongate its mounting holes a bit until you can push it where is needs to be.
Quoted from Mattyk:Hey guys. I’m picking up a WOZ that has unbuffered 7.5v led boards. If I ever have an issue with the boards any idea if JJP has some replacements? I know the 2.0 boards are out of stock but could they send a new 7.5v board? TIA
I havent had too many problems in 7 years...
Quoted from konghusker:Not one problem with mine since new 7-8 years ago. I bought a second 7.5 set from somebody they did conversion for $250 just to have extras though. Most 7.5 sets have been good though
Same here.
Quoted from DiabloRush:Finally getting some quality playing time with my (relatively) new WOZ. I read the rule sheet, and the final wizard mode (Somewhere Over the Rainbow) looks brutally, brutally hard to reach. You need all 8 gems, and some of those require lots and lots of sequential accomplishments, all without losing a ball. Is it just me? Do others routinely reach this? I’ve played quite a few tables over the decades, this honestly may be the hardest to reach Wizard mode I know (at least, reading how to do it in the rulesheet).
Not with the glass on...I dont think its been done.
Kinda like the top 3 scores on pinside for WOZ, they are lies.
Top score #4 is legit and has a ladder pic to prove it in this thread from @pinballgoddess.
Quoted from bobukcat:You are correct, pinball_keefer changed it at some point so the RESCUE letters would carry over and make it only slightly less impossible to achieve. One thing I had to do on my game to make even a remote possiblity was adjust those RESCUE switches otherwise no hit from the flipper would activate several of them, they were just gapped way too far open.
The real key is to get the Mega in rescue MB early on to get the gem.
All of the other gems arent to bad to get.
Very many games Ive earned all the gems but the rescue one.
My high score was 6 mil, but Im no longer on the ladder as Pinballgoddess scores have made it impossible lol.
Quoted from HereToStay:I checked the settings. I didn’t see a setting to toggle individual lights on the big boards. All boards are on in settings. Any other suggestions?
Refresh all the connections, check for a loose connector.
Or get a new board?
Quoted from CrashJT:If you now have the "broken" switch in your hands, you could test it for continuity Again with the dmm. If it shows that it's now actually faulty, then you could make the assumption that testing it "in circuit " wasn't accurate?
Sometimes switches test perfectly but are "flaky" when in use.
I have had brand new switches get flaky after a few plays.
They can just work intermittently and drive you crazy.
Quoted from bobukcat:Yeah, those are standard WPC cabinet side rails and were all taped - my RR appears to be the same, though I can't see the back of the rails at the moment. But there is definitely a bolt in the front, just under the edge of the lockdown bar. I'm sure it's taped too.
They are taped on my WOZ, the little carriage bolt in the front is mostly for alignment and the grounding strap.
Quoted from WarriorPin:Getting a "Hardware Error I/O Board Communication Failure" message - says to check cables / connections.
Is this on the I/O board itself or the pass-through connectors on the Cabinet PCB chassis or both?
In the manual, take a look at the logic chain as to how the system works and how the boards are interconnected.
Quoted from konghusker:I added the flame pots around wizard today, and afterwards the wizard doesn’t seem lit as green as before. I checked light strip is under acrylic as much as possible, but still not lit as bright. Can someone confirm that the etched face should be on backside of acrylic or is it towards the front? Also, are green lights supposed to be completely under acrylic or slightly behind it?
Etched side is on the back
The little LED strip fits where it fits. Hopefully covered my the acrylic....
Quoted from CrashJT:Exactly! Lol. The settings for my machine are spin =7 and open force =14 but the game clearly does not spin it to 7. It does less than 7, and so the "leg door" only opens 1/2 way. But in test mode with 7/14 perfect every time. Very frustrating. No one else notices this?
due to some slop in the mech the adjustment can be sketchy.
It can take 5 or 6 times to get it right.
I have had good success in manually turning the house a bit with the power off and letting the game re-set its position between adjustments.
The test doesnt re-set the house as good as it should. Manually turning it with the power off gets it where it should be "real world".
With a little patience you can get it really close and it will stay there for the most part.
Quoted from CrashJT:So turn the power off and put the house where it is when I run the test and when I turn it on it will just work? Or set the house randomly then turn it on? Then do I try the test over and get new values? I want to do this but not sure what you mean. Thank you for the info.
If you turn the house randomly, the game will set it to wherever it should be.
On start up the house spins a bit to center it.
then make adjustments, turn the game off, turn the house manually, let the game center it and so on.
It takes a few tries to get it right.
What the game thinks is centered and what the test thinks is centered are 2 different things.
Often when its real close (thru adjustments), you can turn the house manually with the game off and when it powers back on its perfect.
Quoted from Mattyk:Have a look under the playfield and see if there is anything loose that has to do with the mech. Is there something that holds onto the shaft of the house and if so is it tight? I’m not at my game but seem to remember seeing a post regarding this
What makes the house adjustment somewhat annoying is that what the game sees as centered and what the test thinks is centered, are 2 different things.
One has to get a "feel" for it.
Basically in test you have to adjust the door to open just slightly before it actually does.
It will hang at say 50 to 75% open as the peg will bind slightly in test.
Turning off the game and manually rotating the house, and letting the game center it will finish the adjustment.
Doing this a couple times will get it perfect.
If it changes down the road, manually turn the house and let the game center it again.
I worked on mine quite a bit to figure it out.
Quoted from Rager170:Mine seems to get out of place after every time I have it perfect. I just deal with it opening 90%. Too annoying to keep messing with.
Try turning the house with the power off and have the game re-center it.
Then see how it works.
More than half the time, this can sort it out for a long time.
Quoted from Bohm:Catching up on all the LED board issues, how concerned should I be that when I raise the playfield, most of the playfield is flickering or just out when I set it back in place? When I raise it back up to check underneath it always becomes fully functional. If I set it back down carefully it will operate normally with no issues, but the fact that it does this leads me to believe a problem is on the horizon. I checked for loose connections but everything seems tight. I have the 7.5 V1.1 boards
Wal-nut connectors loose in the big bundle of wires. They are truly CRAP.
I replaced all of them on my game with lev-r-lock style off of amazon.
Quoted from Bohm:Are those the small, clear, hard plastic connectors towards the rear of the playfield?
Yeah, there are a ton of them.
On my game, if you lifted the big hoses, the playfield lamps would turn off in complete sections.
Under careful examination, I found that loose wires in the Wal-nuts would kill the power.
Oddly, wal-nuts are NOT rated for stranded wire, and they provide a loose connection.
Some of the wires simply fell out of the connectors as they were very loose.
Lev-r-lock style connections are extremely positive, and rated for stranded wire.
It takes awhile to change them out, but it does provide a much better connection to the power source.
The cheaper "knock off" ones from amazon work as well, or better, than the more expensive "Wago" ones.
Quoted from Bohm:Thanks, that sounds like my issue exactly, but I was looking for loose connections on the boards but they were all tight. Switching to lever lock doesn't seem too big of a deal.
It goes pretty fast as most of the wires will probably just fall out.
Quoted from LTG:You probably have to get someone to make you one.
Shouldn't be too hard with a vice, drill, and strip of thick metal.
LTG : )
If I had a sample, I could remake some, if JJP doesnt want to do it.
Quoted from WesleyCowan:I beginning to think this is best option please. Contacted a different person at JJP as it seems like they should have this since used in several of their games.
I agree, its in current production.
I imagine that they can round up a set if needed.
Give them time and keep checking on them.
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San Jose, CA