Holy CRAP! I was just fixing to contact Eric at Titan, because I ordered the wrong type of rubbers. I was going to ask him to instead send all the clear rubbers for my WoZ. I don't own the paper manual yet, and have the PDF from JJ up on my screen. This list makes it much easier for me! Much easier indeed! Thanks so much for this post!

I've seen a couple comments about this expensive LED light kit. Can I get some more comments on those of you that have seen it installed?
http://pinballbulbs.com/products/wizard-oz-pinball-illumination-kit-woz

$130 is a lot for this but it does seem to add some more "pop" to the play field. I would like to be able to see more detail in the play field.

Just a note to say that this fix seems to be holding up over multiple games. I can't say that I'm still at 90% perfect plunges, but I would say 75-80%, again up from 50%.

I like Taylor's idea earlier in this thread about replacing the sling shot posts with star posts and lighting them up with coin takers post LEDs. I'll probably go this route myself.

Upper pops slingshot rubber snapped off tonight. Anyone know how to get to this to replace?

image (resized).jpeg

I'm fairly certain you have to remove the mini Playfield but I could be wrong, the manual has very specific instructions for that process if it is required.

From memory, I think I was able to replace that rubber by only removing some of the screws so that I could lift the back of the mini-playfield up a little.

On different note, I just tilted away a 969,000 end of ball bonus.

Thanks guys. I'll tackle that beast in the morning.

Holy crap on that bonus! That's huge. I'm laughing in sadness for you - gotta love some of the rules involved in this game.

I just had the same rubber break myself. I simply removed the mini playfield and used it as an opportunity to make sure everything was nice and clean under there... it was, but gotta be certain

FYI, The steps for removing the Munchkin playfield are on pages E-4 and E-5.
Like I said above, you don't have to completely remove it to get to the rubber but the steps in the instructions should help you get it loose to replace the rubber.

Thanks. I was just reading that. Looks like I can probably get away with loosening the 3 main screws just up enough to get a rubber around it.

BRUH, ya gotta clean up those black frayed wire housings, take a soldering iron or lighter to them so they stop fraying like that. It will make your game a lot cleaner

Can you or anyone else elaborate on the noise of the game? My pin is in my game room which is a half wall which is connected to my living room, dining room, and next to my kitchen. I need to make the game much quieter without affecting game play. Can someone give me some advice please?

Any advice to get this plastic off? A nut driver turns the screw with it.

image (resized).jpeg

Any advice to get this plastic off? A nut driver turns the screw with it.

I was able to get some mini pliers under the plastic to get the first nut off. That second is partially under the ramp though so gonna be a bit tougher to access. I gotta bail in a few so might not get to it today.

Also, the game calls for a 2" rubber in that spot. Thinking about replacing with a 2 1/2" so it doesn't break as easy, any thoughts on that?

Maybe something like this with the right attachment. You would need to see if a socket was available for it.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=sr_1_17

Not sure if you have enough clearance though.

I would put a 2" Titan in there. 2.5 is probably too big.

Can you get a box head wrench on the one that is under the ramp edge?

Doubt I'll go Titan. I put Titans on my GOT pro slingers and they started tearing away almost instantly, granted they never did snap and held the duration. But still a little sketchy for this location rubber.

That's a good idea, lemme see if I got one that size. I probably won't report back though anytime soon as I gotta bail soon.

Was the rubber that broke white? mine broke within 300 games and i replaced with a regular black rubber. Those white rubbers JJP uses are just to soft of a material for this spot. I had to adjust the leafs to be more sensitive with the black rubber.

I replaced with a 2 1/2 whit because that was all I had on me at the moment. It was a little loose but is still functional.

While I had removed the mini pf, I did not find a need to remove or even loosen the ramp, I just squeezed the rubber through

How'd you get the plastic piece above the slinger off

Hi All

Unboxed a WOZRR yesterday. Fixed a few problems: lockbar and castle spot light but still having problems with the throne room/wizard lighting. When I first set up the game, the wizard tombstone was lighting but erratically. I reset the connectors and now the three lights just glow dimly & steady but do not light the tombstone.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Post a picture of it maybe in the dark.
See if it matches other games.

I just carefully pushed the rubber through between it and the ramp. The tigest spot was the bottom corner (towards the front of the machine) since that almost touches the ramp but there is no post under that end so it flexed easily.

Maybe not the best way and i would not want to do it in reverse but it worked.

Looking at it now I'm not sure I could have done that with the mind pf still on. I guess if loosend and pushed a 1/4" over or so.

Does anyone know if the rainbow lights are one unit? My b doesn't do white or blue. And where can I order a replacement. Thank you for any help.

Yes it is a single unit. JJP parts/support has them. Your games in menu manual has the part number on page C-51.

Since it sounds like it might be an issue with a single SMD it *might* be repairable if you can solder surface mount components. The safer more assured and quicker route will be to call JJP tomorrow and order one.

Yes. It is board W10:

WOZ-lights (resized).jpg

Capture10 (resized).JPG

Capture9 (resized).JPG

Got home a bit ago so was able to tackle this. The hardest part was getting the nuts off the plastic piece which those posts hold the rubber in tack. I don't know how merrcat did it without removing those nuts as the posts is what holds the rubber in place.

EDIT: looking at it again, I guess you don't have to remov the plastic piece and stretch the rubber around it - that's what Merrcat was saying. So just loosen the 3 munchkin screws to get the rubber in and you should be golden...

Anyway, here's what you need for anyone doing it. Remove nuts to get plastic off using a 11/32 wrench; if you can get a ratcheting wrench that'll help a lot. The hard part is the post screw moves with the nut, I have no idea how I got it loose, but eventually the pinball gods just threw me a bone and it budged. You'll probably need a 5/16 to tighten the post back down. The munchkin playfield is easy; just remove screws 5&6 in the screenshot and loosen, but not remove, 8. That gives you enough clearance to get the rubber in.

I replaced the rubber with a 2 1/2 white; seems to work just fine.

Here's the tools you need and screenshot from the manual:

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).png

Wow! Is this the most helpful instructions I've seen. If you made this then man I'm bow to your greatness! *bow-bow-bow*. If this is a reprint from the WoZ manual then thanks for the reprint. My manual is enroute. I've only owned my WoZ for 4 days and trying to learn the rules, so this info will be immensely helpful.

Just curious if any of you have created any custom cleaning tools to clean the portions of the playfield that are covered by upper playfields? I've been trying to come up with some way of wiping down the orbit shots on WOZ and my WH2O. Maybe a microfiber swatch attached to a flexible rod. Anyone made something like this?

Nice write up. From what I've heard, I feel like that rubber ring is a ticking time bomb in these games. It will snap at some point; it is just a matter of when. I'm glad to hear that you don't have to take the munchkin playfield off. I had a more difficult than usual time taking it off way back when to put the cliffy on.

For me it was definitely easier to take the munchkin playfield off the second time around (under 5 minutes). I just wish you the cabling was routed a little differently so you wouldn't have to cut and replace zip ties to do so. I will try the loosening method next time around.

That upper slingshot is a time bomb lol. I guess thinking about it, with a ball up there it does fire a lot more frequently and rapidly than regular slingshots so I shouldn't have been as surprised as i was to see the rubber so chewed up. At least it's not too difficult to replace, it just looks intimidating being so buried in there.

Thank you. This is truly a great club to be in.

I did manage to get my indyhead winkie light up drop target installed too. Way better target, highly recommend.

Yeah, maybe that was a bit of hyperbole on my part. I guess every ring will break in time. It just seems that one is supposed to break more frequently and seems to be in a pretty tough area to get to. Don't mind me; my hands get all sweaty any time I even think about working on my pin. I'm a nervous repairman.

Thanks. I did make the 2nd and 3rd pages (thus they are unofficial but I believe to be 100% accurate). JJP made the first image/page.

I've had time to read some of it, and will be devouring the rest tomorrow morning. I want to thank you again, because these instructions and gaming tips are so well thought out, plus very well referenced with photos. Thank you!

I had this exact problem when I unboxed my Ruby Red. The LED strip itself was faulty. Contact JJP and they should send you out a new LED strip. It's easy to replace.

Look what just arrived for my WOZ.

IMG_0953 (resized).JPG
IMG_0954 (resized).JPG

The pindemption system was very easy to install. Just plug and play. And, it seems quite easy switching back and forth between playing for tickets and playing under the regular rules. One nice thing that I wasn't expecting is that I can now play under the regular rules but on a timer with unlimited balls. So, I can now challenge my kids and guests to see who can get the most points in, say, 3 minutes. And, they don't have to wait around for me to finish the occasional 20 minute ball. I'm looking forward to exploring the options.

Does anyone have any input on how the play field protectors affect the roll overs?

I don't think they are needed for a home game, and many have reported that they have a negative affect on the switch sensitivity.
I do recommend the Cliffy inlane switch slot protectors.

TY

I should have also said the munchkin playfield edge Cliffy and the other hole/VUK cliffys. I also use the trough eject cliffys on my games.
He may have some available that are carbon fiber.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/WOZ/woz-ejectset4.jpg

http://www.passionforpinball.com/WOZ/woz-munchkin-1.jpg

http://www.passionforpinball.com/switchslot.htm

http://www.passionforpinball.com/ballejects.htm

Slight update to my fix for inconsistent plunges. I was starting to have issues again, so I added a second strip of black felt tape to the wooden block on the left immediately above the collect insert. So, I have a strip of felt both above and below the collect insert. This seems to keep the ball centered on the metal ramp in the shooter lane. I'm back to nearly 100% consistency. I'll see if it holds up.

I have inconsistent plunges too. Both manually and automatic. I'll give this a shot. Care to share a pic?

Sure. Here you go. As you can see, the felt is hard to notice. I had to take the picture with a flash so you would see it at all. I added horizontal green lines to show the length of each piece.

WoZFeltFix (resized).jpg

If you try this, report back with the results. It would be good to get a second data point.

Is that simply sticky backed stuff from a craft store? I may try it myself

Yes, exactly.