(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

10 years ago


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  • 15,275 posts
  • 753 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 28 hours ago by zermeno68
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There are 15,275 posts in this topic. You are on page 39 of 306.
#1901 7 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

This happens from time to time but shouldn't happen that often. JJP advised me to move around the placement of the USB plugs in the back of the box under the playfield. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it unless it keeps happening at a high frequency.

Thanks Nokoro. I'll move around the USBs when I get home.

#1902 7 years ago

Free to all, enjoy

8.5X11

If anyone wants a specific size please let me know

RRWOZ_Shot Map 001 8.5x11 (resized).jpgRRWOZ_Shot Map 001 8.5x11 (resized).jpg

#1903 7 years ago

11x17

RRWOZ_Shot Map 11x17 (resized).jpgRRWOZ_Shot Map 11x17 (resized).jpg

#1904 7 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Thanks Nokoro. I'll move around the USBs when I get home.

Ironically, after I posted this, it happened to me again. I only moved two of the four USB plugs since the other two didn't have enough slack. I guess I'll have to cut some zip ties and move the other two to see if that takes care of the issue.

#1905 7 years ago

Good luck but I'm thinking Pinballinreno may be onto something witch checking for low available current at the outlet. To me unless you have a usb controller dying on the motherboard or have dirty contacts moving a usb plug shouldn't have any significant difference (maybe the same performance boost your car gets from attaching an edlebroc sticker on the window).

However if current is low, perhaps at the moment the PC is doing its peripheral search/driver load, the device in question (light controller in this case) has not yet gotten to the point where it can return a ready response to the PC.

I would try powering up for a while when WOZ is the only thing drawing power from the circuit and see if that helps. Also may want to remove any extension cords or power strips from the circuit. My WOZ is plugged into a surge protector directly mounted to the outlet.

#1906 7 years ago

Thanks Chosen_S - great job! Now to find a WOZ themed frame ...

#1907 7 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Good luck but I'm thinking Pinballinreno may be onto something witch checking for low available current at the outlet. To me unless you have a usb controller dying on the motherboard or have dirty contacts moving a usb plug shouldn't have any significant difference (maybe the same performance boost your car gets from attaching an edlebroc sticker on the window).
However if current is low, perhaps at the moment the PC is doing its peripheral search/driver load, the device in question (light controller in this case) has not yet gotten to the point where it can return a ready response to the PC.
I would try powering up for a while when WOZ is the only thing drawing power from the circuit and see if that helps. Also may want to remove any extension cords or power strips from the circuit. My WOZ is plugged into a surge protector directly mounted to the outlet.

The problem with diagnosing this issue is that it only happens once every 1-2 months. It really isn't that big a deal. The next time it happens, I'm just going to play a game with all of the lights not working. It will probably be my best game yet.

#1908 7 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Free to all, enjoy
8.5X11
If anyone wants a specific size please let me know

How is everyone planning on printing these posters? I have a crappy ink jet printer, and the colors always look terrible. Perhaps it could be sent to digital picture lab to get a high quality print on photo paper . . . .

#1909 7 years ago

Chosen_S could get some printed like Radcals and sell them at the Chicago Expo. I could bring some back with me to MI for locals. Sounds like a plan. Where you going to be at the Expo Chosen_S?

#1910 7 years ago

I will also be needing WOZ to truly use this guide.

#1911 7 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Chosen_S could get some printed like Radcals and sell them at the Chicago Expo. I could bring some back with me to MI for locals. Sounds like a plan. Where you going to be at the Expo Chosen_S?

I dont plan to be at expo, nor do I plan to sell these, I'm sure JJP would not be too greatful, I was thinking I could do an 8x10 version, and you could find a frame and have wallgreens print it or something, I'll get the 8x10 done soon

#1912 7 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I dont plan to be at expo, nor do I plan to sell these, I'm sure JJP would not be too greatful, I was thinking I could do an 8x10 version, and you could find a frame and have wallgreens print it or something, I'll get the 8x10 done soon

Good plan B

#1913 7 years ago

Yeah. That's was my plan. Walgreens or CVS

#1914 7 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

The problem with diagnosing this issue is that it only happens once every 1-2 months. It really isn't that big a deal. The next time it happens, I'm just going to play a game with all of the lights not working. It will probably be my best game yet.

Since few people have dedicated power, we are all subject to the highs and lows of "street power". Your power can vary 20 volts and can lose 10 amps every few hours depending on the usage on your street or section of the grid.

This is why the problem comes and goes.
Try a dedicated outlet with nothing but pins on it, and it should be a 20 amp breaker if you have a few pins on it (4 or 6), with 20 amp wire.

#1915 7 years ago

Now that I think more about it, I believe the rest of my game room was on before I turned on WOZ (6 arcades, 2 pins, all lighting and my dehumidifier). So there was already significant power drawing from the basement. That makes sense. I don't think I've had the lighting problem when turning on only WOZ for a few games.

#1916 7 years ago

Thanks for making this Chosen, but I have one constructive criticism for you before people go print this and hang it on their walls. You're not consistent with your capitalizations. I would suggest going through all your text and making it uniform.

Also, your use of parenthesis and hyphens are inconsistent. You might also have an extra space between Rescue and Switches in the TOTO explanation. I'm a graphic designer so this is stuff I cannot unsee. Haha. Good job though!

#1917 7 years ago

I picked up a standard over the weekend. It looks great and is very fun. I think I may have an issue with the munchkin ball lock. Sometime it releases two balls instead of one during gameplay. Is this a common issue and and can you point me in the right direction to resolve it?

#1918 7 years ago

Pretty common. You'll want to go to settings and (I believe shorten/lessen the number) for it so it stays up less time. May take a few tries to get it perfect for all three balls up there.

#1919 7 years ago

Thanks dmacy! I thought it would be a mechanical issue I didnt think it would be a setting. This game has ruined me- it makes my williams feel really old.

#1920 7 years ago

Also make sure you have the game at your desired slope before you do this. This will affect the Munchkin ball release.

#1921 7 years ago

Hey guys, considering a woz but not sure which version. Price tags on all 3 are pretty hefty nib; with standards seeming to be the most reasonable vs used wozle's. Insight is appreciated and i havent seen a standard in person, but Are there many (any?) Differences between the standard and newer run ECLE's besides green armor, topper, and limited edition plaque?

#1922 7 years ago

No significant differences. Between the ECLE and standard just what you mentioned (and wood apron). With the RR there are a few additional molded items on the playfield but its all just decorative and nothing that can't be added on.

#1923 7 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Thanks for making this Chosen, but I have one constructive criticism for you before people go print this and hang it on their walls. You're not consistent with your capitalizations. I would suggest going through all your text and making it uniform.
Also, your use of parenthesis and hyphens are inconsistent. You might also have an extra space between Rescue and Switches in the TOTO explanation. I'm a graphic designer so this is stuff I cannot unsee. Haha. Good job though!

Thank you, I appreciate the feedback

#1924 7 years ago

So I just rejoined - I had a preorder in 2013 never took delivery and sold it for Metallica LE now I find myself selling a non delivered GB to repurchase a woz LE.

#1925 7 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

So I just rejoined - I had a preorder in 2013 never took delivery and sold it for Metallica LE now I find myself selling a non delivered GB to repurchase a woz LE.

Good move. The game is awesome and will be a classic IMO.

#1926 7 years ago

I adjusted the Munchkin lock to 225 and it seems to be working now.

I have notice another issue when I turn the game on it searches for the balls and gets hung up. Eventually I manage to get a game started but something is just not right. I am thinking the optics in the ball trough may need to be cleaned. All my settings are set to release the balls when a game is done.

I use a remote switch to turn on my machines. As WOZ uses a computer will turning off the power this way effect anything?

Thank you

#1927 7 years ago

You might reseat the opto plug to the trough.
I'd also prefer to cut the game on and off by the switch.

#1928 7 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Hey guys, considering a woz but not sure which version. Price tags on all 3 are pretty hefty nib; with standards seeming to be the most reasonable vs used wozle's. Insight is appreciated and i havent seen a standard in person, but Are there many (any?) Differences between the standard and newer run ECLE's besides green armor, topper, and limited edition plaque?

Keep in mind that a standard won't have invisiglass or a shaker unless they were added. Those are two really good additions. I have a Ruby Red. I love the extra bling, but the gameplay is exactly the same.

#1929 7 years ago

I can adjust my Spinning House Witch's legs in the test mode - they work perfectly.

Unfortunately, they never work during a game when I start a Munchkin mode. I can see the door struggle, but it won't open.

I've tried increasing the coil strength to open the door (even though the door opened fine in test). I've also tried adjusting the house to be slightly off in test, thinking it would correct itself during an actual game. (I'm thinking the spin adjustment in test mode does not accurately reflect the final house position during a game.)

In any case, they just won't work during a game no matter how I try to adjust it in test.

Has anybody experienced this and/or know of a solution to get the feet to display properly during a game?

#1930 7 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

(I'm thinking the spin adjustment in test mode does not accurately reflect the final house position during a game.)

You are correct.
If the house spin is way off the plastic post that triggers the door wont line up.
It takes quite a few tests and in game tests to get it to work correctly.
With patience and a little time you will get it to work correctly.
Mine runs well enough and the door drops all the way 90% of the time and drops 3/4 the other 10%. I call it good enough.
It took about 10 separate adjustment sessions to get it to work right as I had to learn as I went along.

#1931 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You are correct.
If the house spin is way off the plastic post that triggers the door wont line up.
It takes quite a few tests and in game tests to get it to work correctly.
With patience and a little time you will get it to work correctly.
Mine runs well enough and the door drops all the way 90% of the time and drops 3/4 the other 10%. I call it good enough.
It took about 10 separate adjustment sessions to get it to work right as I had to learn as I went along.

Thanks. Got it adjusted. Seems the only real way to get the witch's feet to work is with the glass off in a "pseudo game."

Test mode is a bust.

#1932 7 years ago

Question for you WOZ folks. Looks like I'll be joinin the club soon. I'm going to be looking at a HUO standard from a fellow pinsider that is exactly 1 year old. I figure the build date is good (later run) and the Owner says it's in great huo condition with one light board replaced in the 1 year he's had it; but no issues since. Question - if I buy a used WOZ; how good is jjp support for getting me replacement boards, displays, etc... When I'm not the original owner? Is this something I should not be worried about (like any other pinball?) and just go for it? Thanks in advance.

#1933 7 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Question for you WOZ folks. Looks like I'll be joinin the club soon. I'm going to be looking at a HUO standard from a fellow pinsider that is exactly 1 year old. I figure the build date is good (later run) and the Owner says it's in great huo condition with one light board replaced in the 1 year he's had it; but no issues since. Question - if I buy a used WOZ; how good is jjp support for getting me replacement boards, displays, etc... When I'm not the original owner? Is this something I should not be worried about (like any other pinball?) and just go for it? Thanks in advance.

JJP will absolutely provide support. They may not provide free parts, but they will continue to offer all troubleshooting support if there are any issues that may occur in the future.

I had contacted JJP directly with this exact concern, and got the answer straight from the source.

#1934 7 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Keep in mind that a standard won't have invisiglass or a shaker unless they were added. Those are two really good additions. I have a Ruby Red. I love the extra bling, but the gameplay is exactly the same.

Early standard models will have the direct print cabinet, just like the Emerald City LE games. Later standard games, made at some point in late 2013/early 2014, will have a decal in lieu of the direct print cabinet. The Ruby Reds, of course, have a decal. The direct print cabinet was discontinued because of a vendor fall-out. Unlike shakers, Invisiglass, aprons, toys, and trim, the cabinet is not an add-on item. For that reason, the direct print cabinet is the most significant difference among the games.

#1935 7 years ago

Going to update code for an owner this week and they will need a full update. Was 6.06 a full update?

#1936 7 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

f I buy a used WOZ; how good is jjp support for getting me replacement boards, displays, etc... When I'm not the original owner? Is this something I should not be worried about (like any other pinball?) and just go for it? Thanks in advance.

Their online stuff sort of sucks but if you call them they are great. No worries with their support even all the way down in New Zealand.

#1937 7 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Going to update code for an owner this week and they will need a full update. Was 6.06 a full update?

Yes I do believe it is.

#1938 7 years ago

Can someone confirm that these are the files that should exist after installing the update to a USB drive on a mac? TIA.- Taylor

Screen Shot 2016-09-06 at 11.02.00 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2016-09-06 at 11.02.00 AM (resized).png

#1939 7 years ago

Looks right to me. They use clonezilla to extract the new image onto the machine.

#1940 7 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

Looks right to me. They use clonezilla to extract the new image onto the machine.

Thanks. I'm not sure how to test it and the owner lives about half an hour away. Would suck to get there and find out it doesn't update the game.

#1941 7 years ago

The sure fire way to test would be to update your own machine to make sure it works. You might lose your scores though.

#1942 7 years ago

How do you adjust the left outlane? Looks like the ball guide will interfere with the post in that inward position?

#1943 7 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

The sure fire way to test would be to update your own machine to make sure it works. You might lose your scores though.

Mine is already updated so would updating do anything? Just erase scores? I could live that.

#1944 7 years ago
Quoted from ninjabones:

How do you adjust the left outlane? Looks like the ball guide will interfere with the post in that inward position?

I would like to know this as well. I really want to make the left out lane a little more forgiving.

#1945 7 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

I would like to know this as well. I really want to make the left out lane a little more forgiving.

Pretty sure there is an extra hole under there you will find when you move it.

#1946 7 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Pretty sure there is an extra hole under there you will find when you move it.

Yes but the metal rail ball guide is in the way. I don't see how the post can move inward.

#1947 7 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Yes but the metal rail ball guide is in the way. I don't see how the post can move inward.

It will push on the metal rail, theres a extra hole for the rail

20160906_162837 (resized).jpg20160906_162837 (resized).jpg

#1948 7 years ago

If you take out that metal guide screw that is near the red slippers image in the picture above there is an additional hole that allows the guide to be mounted in a more narrow position. It cannot be seen without taking out the screw.

#1949 7 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Mine is already updated so would updating do anything? Just erase scores? I could live that.

Hey Taylor! You can back up your scores and settings to another USB stick.

#1950 7 years ago
Quoted from goren1818:

Hey Taylor! You can back up your scores and settings to another USB stick.

Nice, I didn't know it backed the scores up as well. Just saw that you could backup your settings.

Quoted from TaylorVA:

Mine is already updated so would updating do anything? Just erase scores? I could live that.

It will simply replace what you have with whatever image you're loading on there. Even if it's the same version. I would try backing up the settings as Goren mentioned to try and preserve your scores.

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