Thanks guys. Drilling freaks me out. Heck, I don't even want to remove the mini-pf...

You can do it, the wire plugins aren't confusing, just go slow and let pin instinct take over. It was designed to be removed.

Here is why it's important... First shot chip starting (really hard to pick up on camera since i filled it and it was small to begin with) but the next is more dramatic as it shows all the ball impacts the cliffy has absorbed since.

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I get the Forth of July lights when I hit either flipper. Is it possible to narrow down which connection is
loose by shutting down a single board in the software and seeing if the problem goes away?

I got that for the RAINBOW lights when I hit the left flipper. Eventually figured out that when I removed and put back in my munchkinland playfield, I shoved the wires back in such that they were touching the munchkinland flipper shaft. I moved them out of the way and solved the problem.

I figured out my RAINBOW light problem. I traced the wire backward to where it hooks up to the center light board and found that the black pin hadn't been pushed all the way into the connector. It still have a pretty horrible wire stripping job if you ask me, but at least the lights work now.

Can anyone help me with the Oz head green lights? I tested voltage at the connector under the playfield and have 10.9 volts. So, I'm assuming the green LED strip is bad?

Also, I tested the witch house legs coil and it only pops the legs out halfway. Is there a way to adjust this?

Thanks.

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Fortunately, this one is easy. Watch this video:

You do not have to pre-drill the screw holes. The screws will drive in the wood without hurting the playfield.

For the rainbow flashing you just have to hunt it down. Isolating by mechs firing is good if it isn't always happening. Mine was caused by a loose connector under the castle playfield and of course it was on an early game where you had to add a connector to actually remove that playfield. Still scratch my head wondering how they felt the way they wired that would work in the field.

Yeah, probably...mine went bad early on. Get a replacement from JJP.

Per seeing someone else having done this before me, I painted the Cliffy around the Rainbow with Emerald Green and I think it looks nice. Just a thought. And yes removing the playfield there's good instructions in the manual and not too hard.

I asked JJ today if he would implement a post your score to facebook instead of tweet your score and he said to wait for pin #3.

Interesting, I wonder if that means a different QR code or actual network support with direct integration.

Question on the hard drive. Since SSD's have a fairly limited lifespan, has anyone had to replace the drive yet? I was curious to know if the game is fairly flexible on the drives specs or if its particular to a specific make/model or size drive?

No, any sata SSD drive will do as long as its at least as big as the one you are replacing. Mine went out right when i got it and I didnt want to wait for the replacement so i just grabbed another I had sitting around.

Any pics of this

Thanks. That was an easy fix. Just need to contact JJ about my Oz led strip and I'll be up and running at 100%

Awesome! Glad to hear you got her all dialed in.

I know its a bummer to have to work on a new machine. They way I think about it is that pinball machines are in a way like pianos or slate pool tables... They aren't too fond of being moved and especially don't like being constantly vibrated and jostled for a week while in freight. After such treatment they almost always require a tune up. A machine as complex as WOZ just needs more attention to get back in tune. But once dialed in, it can really be appriciated as the masterpiece that it is.

What site(s) currently have the WOZ Cliffy Protectors? I just checked and my upper playfield is showing signs of hits shown in the previous pics. Might get some for the VUKs too.

Right from the source:

http://www.passionforpinball.com/WOZ.htm

Yes, you can order directly from Cliffy, and he has great customer service.

Just installed the Cliffy set minus the magnet protectors. Quality stuff as always from him. I recommend installing the plastic protector set while doing the cliffys as well. It was just easier to do while it was apart. I performed the hat trick which was cliffys, plastic protectors, and white rubber with yellow post sleeves. Looks great!

Can you post pics of the post sleeves?

My cliffy at the throne room and behind winki at the VUK is popping up, anyone have a fix for that?

Does resetting the high scores also reset the grand champion score?

Yes

I'm looking for a ECLEWOZ or RRWOZ. Any trades out there?

If you can, go with the ECLE. Wood apron is awesome. Wish all new pins had one.

Hey mod guys ... if I wanted to add some various LED mods to a WOZ (like leg light up LEDs, shooter rod LEDs, and flipper button LEDs) what connection could I use and split off of without jeopardizing overloading boards? I've read there is a connector on the back of the coin door and see one that is not connected to anything, but is not the same molex 3 or 4 pin connector that is on the Sterns. If that is the correct connector to use, where do you buy the correctly wired adapter from to use for the other molex 3 or 4 pin mods? Also, is the Hobbit the same way? (I did not get my Hobbit yet.)

Hmmm In a Hobbit thread I see that some people get separate power supplies for their mods. Sounds like a good idea. Any thoughts? One power supply mentioned was this ebay item number ... 121795917592 both 12v and 5v. I'm thinking about doing this with all my pins to power my pinballlife 8 way splitter boards.

Yep use a power supply! Did on both WOZECLE and TH SE....leave the factory wires alone and let them do what they were supposed to do

Ok, I'll try to go that route. How do you wire it so that it is switched with the pin power switch and the mods do not stay on all the time? Is there instructions for that? Relays? Go into the power supply and hot wire it? Does JJP have a switched plug somewhere?

This connector here between the power switch and the transformer has switched line power. That's probably where I would tap in.

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Does anyone else ever get a ball stuck on the left orbit made switch? It happens when the ball pops out of the bumpers and up the left orbit just enough to go over the switch, then it just sits there. It's happened to me 3 times now. There is no nudging the ball loose either. I actually have to take the glass off or literally tilt the game to the left, causing a tilt obviously. Is there a way to adjust the switch so it doesn't stick up into the play field so far?

So with all the talk about a separate power supply, has anyone had boards fail from mods?
Can an interactive (like an undercab) mod get powered by the power supply but get its signal from a led?
I've got some that I was looking to install (Mezel, mod father, rock undercab kit). I already installed the pinball bulbs brightening kit.
Thanks for any input.

I've had that happen maybe twice since I've had it so I haven't thought to address it but I should. Usually bending the arm down so it doesn't stick up so high but is still high enough to reliably register balls will solve these kinds of problems. The switch for Rescue on mine is too stiff and sometimes causes the ball to actually go around the switch and not register, I'm going to work on that later today, with it being on the mini playfield it may be a bitch to get to.

Any ideas as I have tried rebooting and when booting Jersey Jack image fills the screen properly then after that things are either off to the left or to high on the display..unplugged and plug VGA back in with no fix...

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I have this happen a few times and i got to shake the crap out of the game to get it to move

Do those here who own WOZ still have the black rubber rings or have you converted to white or other colors? I replaced the originals when it was time with black except for green ones on the slings. I tend to stay with whatever the manufacturers tested the games in when in development, but then again not always.

Did you try a complete power fail (cold re-start) on the game?
Unplug from the wall, turn on the game, turn off the game, re-plug into the wall, turn on the game?
Looks like the video is not auto centering the image under the OS control, could be a corrupt driver.
Maybe save all your settings and re-install a complete 6.06 full game install, then see if it fixes it.

I switched to urethane superbands but took them off (they seemed to feel deader than fresh latex) and now
Im using red Titan bands in the flippers a green one on the much PF and an orange one on the castle pf.

They remind me of what fresh rubber used to feel like (somewhat)....today's rubber feels a little dead.

I just finished a complete shop job on my WOZ, removed both mini pf's, the ramps, trees etc. replaced all rubber with new.
I used some new STC rubber and some of my older STC rubber from my stash...my older stash of rubber bounces better than the new rubber I just got. Also dont bother getting a rubber kit for the WOZ from marco, its missing half of the rubber (what a rip off).

Better off using the rubber list in the manual and ordering it from another source (maybe terry at pinball life).

Waxed 2 times with P21S (just to make sure I didnt miss any areas...).
I used all black rubber except on the flippers.

The game plays absolutely like brand new!
However on the next shop job Im going to switch to white rubber. The game will play better, I should have used white the last time on this game.

Mine is only a few weeks old. However, I switched to white rubber when I put in the plastic and Cliffy protectors. I like the gameplay with white better on all my games. The white looks sharp on WOZ.

Yep have tried both of those now....no change...boooo

Contact Lloyd and or get a repair ticket asap from jjp support.
check all connectors etc...

Anyone have a measurement for an emerald city with topper from the ground. My ceiling is a tad low and I want to see if it'll fit with the topper..... I mean...you need the topper

Yesterday a screw fell into one of the pop bumpers areas and I didn't know it until I turned the game on. A pop bumper keep firing and then I discover the screw and got it out of the machine. Since then the winged monkey won't move especially to go back up to the castle. I assumed something shorted maybe a transistor. Any ideas?

When you have a non-pinhead over to play some games, how do you describe what to do in WOZ? I love the rules, but they are so complex that I have a hard time describing even short term goals to a newbie. I'm left with wait until you see lock lit and then hit the ball up the ramp; do that three times to start multiball.

In test mode does it attempt to move at all and can you hear the motor run? Did you have to lift the playfield to get the screw out? If so something may now be jammed against it or something became disconnected during that process.

My WOZ emerald city LE is 82" +/- about a half inch to the top of the LE topper. (on carpet)

I explain the skill shots and tell them to go for the witch hurry up to start. Then I tell them to work on advancing YBR to try to get an extra ball lit and get Dorothy captured along the way, doing these will usually get the locks lit and start multiball. If they are halfway decent I explain the crystal ball modes and when to shoot for it. That's always been more than enough for non pinheads.

Listen to the call-outs and shoot for what the call-outs are saying. If you hear the witch - shoot the witch. When the Lock Ball or tornado light is lit shoot that ramp. Try to get to the castle and hit all the targets and knock down the door with 3 hits up there. When crystal ball light is lit, try to go there if the opportunity presents itself.