Finally melted the witch! So cool!

Is there a strategy guide or rule sheet for the 6.06 code? Ive been playing the game for a week now and still dont understand the crystals, horses, how to stack multiballs, what progressing up the yellow brick road does, and im sure alot more.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-rulesheet-2

Go to post #47 in the above link for the newest version of the rulesheet.

Few questions on the mods available and what you guys think looks best.

First the castle and witches well mod. When the witches wells installed do you leave the plastic encloser off? Also does the castle walls block any view of the RESCUE targets?

I see alot of different candy decals being sold. Which do you guys think are the best ones to buy?

Im going to get my Standard legs, armor, and hinges powder coated. If you could pick any color what do you think would look the best?

What other mods do you think are tasteful and look really good installed?

Thanks for any insight provided. Game is so much fun and getting better daily as we figure out the rules, thanks tismasc for the rules!

I think all the mods are nice, but I really feel that only 3 things are "necessary" additions or modifications:

1) Indypinhead's plastic protectors - a bitch to install, but broken plastics are the worst.

2) Cliffy protectors on the 2~VUKs and Throne Scoop - castle VUK protector will have you cussing, but protecting those holes should be A1 priority as that's the first spot to wear.

3) Lit State Fair balloon - this should have been a factory thing because of how perfect it is.

Regarding the castle walls, yes - you leave the plastic "dome" off. They don't obstruct any of the targets. I never bothered with the candy stickers because stickers will peel and start to look tacky over time. The default look works fine for me. I can't weigh in on which ones are best.

On powder coating, green looks so damn good on this game. If I ever coat mine, that emerald green that's on the ECLE would be the only way to to go IMHO. The red is gorgeous, but the green is ace.

Not counting the 3 "necessary" additions above, I would say one of the lighted Winkie targets would be an excellent buy. I bought mine from Mezel Mods, but Indypinhead also makes one (I think).

+1 on the Lit Winkie target mod. The original winkie was impossible to see anyway and the mod also does a really nice job of lighting up that general area of the playfield. I went with the green light and it is a nice match to the thronerooms green.

The mezel Winkie looks great but doesn't last. It is not strong enough and will break

You're missing the Munchkinland cliffy. That is waaay more important than the VUK Cliffys.

I have to agree - I've broken two. But the light is nice anyway.

I broke my original one, they sent me another one. I'm sure you can get a free replacement if you ask.

I have 1000 games on my "replacement" and it doesnt even look worn. Maybe I'm just lucky, or got one from a good flexible batch that wasnt too brittle.

The one I have seems reasonably flexible, maybe it will become more brittle with time or perhaps earlier runs had some issues?

If it is a problem, hopefully someone will make a better quality drop target in clear. Does anyone know if this is the same target mold as is being used for TH? I'm hoping so as if it becomes a universal part for JJP then edventually we should see lots of alternatives pop up (excuse the pun).

Cliffy's every-where but around the playfield insert is how mine is. Especially need on the Munchkinland mini-playfield.

Castle Walls look better than the stock ones and don't block anything.

I did put decals on the Rainbow stand ups and very much like how they look. I don't have decals any where else and prefer it that way.

Personally I think the witches well looks better than the plastic thing it comes in, but haven't ever bought this.

You can buy I guess all of the movie figures, tornado and other things that are on the WOZ RR edition but I've never seen anyone actually do that. From what I remember seems like it was a lot of $.

There are lots of other mods available for WOZ. But to me the one that is most necessary are Cliffy's to protect things from getting worn and if that was the only mod I could do, that would be the one.

Finally beat the default GC score with a score of 704,453! My highest yet! (Take that JJP!!! ) I'm really starting to get a feel for the game and how to combine all the modes. Awesome fun!

This is exactly what's happening to me - I've just taken a look and the monkey plastic is touching the door post when all the way up - if the ball were anywhere near the centre there would be no problem, but it looks like it's being picked up by the washer, when the monkey reaches the top it releases, and most of the time the ball simply lands on that protective foam strip they added, and rolls off the edge.

Has anyone solved this? The monkey can't go further up the mech unless I go cutting parts out of the plastic, when parked up there the magnet is actually further to the left of centre and in perfect position. Also can someone tell me which way their magnet core is facing? There's a cut out of the washer, mine faces forwards. meaning the 'channel' in the magnet core is horizontal. It seems impossible to change this, the part is all fixed together. Not sure what to do about this one, I don't want to remove the foam (theres 2 thin strips) because then the ball might pick up damage from landing on the metal edge.

Now I look at the video frame by frame, it looks like it's actually rolling / bouncing out from inside of the rubber edge. Seems that when the motor jerks to a stop the ball moves to the left then releases, hits the wireform on the left of the captive area giving it enough momentum to bounce & roll up the foam. So I want the monkey to move slightly less far.

Edit: had to put quite a bit of extra bend in the switch - the mech is now stopping 3-4mm further back than it was before along the runner, ball feed is really clean now. I'd still like to know what orientation people have on their magnets as this seems like something that wouldn't be a problem if the magnet was turned 90 degrees.

Make the switch that is triggered by the monkey at the top slightly more sensitive and see if that fixes it (to get it to drop the ball just a hair quicker).

EDITED: make more sensitive not less

My castle door switches seem to be registering while my ball is in play down on the main play field. Ill be playing my game and then all of the sudden i hear the crack of the axe for the castle doors and the winkie music comes on along with the blacked out rescue letters up on the screen for about 2 seconds and then in goes back to normal play. Any ideas what may be causing this? Running the most current 6.06 Version of the software.

Sounds like the switch is too closely gapped and being triggered by vibration. I haven't examined that switch to know what kind it is, but most of the switches are adjustable. Not sure if you will have to remove the upper playfield to get at it.

To test this, put the game in switch test mode and bang around the playfield, both regular and upper, to see if vibration causes it to trigger.

Also maybe check for any loose or partially loose connectors or cables under the PF. They should all be snug, including the cables gong to the computer (big silver box).

My monkey started dropping the ball and I noticed that it was snagging on the door today. After looking around here I tried adding washers to the door but that actually caused the door to deflect more into the monkey, I next tried loosening the upper playfield and nudging it but still couldn't get enough clearance (also I think I may be missing a screw there)

Anyway the solution i came up with was super easy and since I have not already seen it I thought I would share. I noticed that the door stops against a rail back there where the monkey drops the ball. All i had to so was add one of those stick on pads to the back of the door positioned so that the pad would rest against the rail. Presto! Plenty of clearance now.

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

Great! I thought about doing something like that myself. Does the door stick out too much now?

Not really alhough a thinner pad would be ideal I figure it will edentually wear/compress. From the players position it is not at all noticable. The second picture is actually the door with the pad in place.... Wait, no this is the picture with the pad in place.

image_(resized).jpeg

I was also noticing that its the monkeys foot that gets caught. Since its just a plastic piece with a 90 degree fold I figured maybe with the heat of being on that fold released just a hair causing the bottom to no longer clear the door. As a last resort I was considering building something to hold it in position while giving it a light bake. Fortunately I'm happy with just adding a pad to the door.

Maybe a good mod would be a steel monkey to replace the plastic one. It could thinner and not prone to warping with time/heat ensuring continued door clearance.

My celebration was in error - the monkey is still dropping the ball onto the playfield every time... It seems like it would be easy to improve in code, when the monkey stops, wait half a second and then drop the ball. I need a higher frame rate camera because testing this and getting a clear picture of what the problem still is, is hard.

It appears to be dropping the ball too late and thus the ball hits the metal bar and bounces back and over the rail.
Make the switch more sensitive and the ball will drop earlier. The switch is at the top of the diagonal monkey guide rails.

Another thing that could be tried is to put some drop dead foam on the rail where the ball is dropping, but that would be a last resort for me.

I'm looking for a RRWOZ. I have a beautiful TZ to trade. Lots of mods and new items. Full leds. PM for questions.

Just mho... But the Back Alley Creations castle and tornado mods are the way to go. Awesome quality

I was looking at their castle mod this morning. I love the level of detail in the stone, to me it looks much more like an old rotting stone wall! So far I have not seen a tornado mod that I like, maybe seeing them in person would be different.

Ok, finally. I had to adjust the switch even more, it's about 6mm away from the original position. That's such a relief, it was spoiling the game for me.

The machine is nearly dialled in perfectly now. I just need to adjust the ball lock release coil for times when 3 balls are locked, and I'm still in the process of dialling down a few of the coils (already down in places from the factory). You can bring the State Fair one right down and that playfield area still works well.

Also putting a ball saver on just long enough to catch balls that make the orbit from plunge but brush the upper pop bumper skirt and go straight to Toto.

I'm happy I picked this game over Ghostbusters in the end.

I just did this with a tiny piece of weather stripping. Seems to compress down to an ideal thickness. The monkey moves back and forth smoothly, and the door looks completely normal from the player's position.

Had this problem... Did same thing in post #1520. Worked for me. Fixed it right away

I'd be curious to hear from other UK owners about your coil settings. Mine were mostly down from the factory defaults when I got it, but I've found myself dialling several of them down further still. I've got the state fair one right down at 6 now and it's less crazy than it was meaning the 'light nudge' game works instead of going to make tea while it slams all 5 targets 20 times each, normal pops at 8 which has definitely toned them down a bit, anything past 10 is overkill. The trough is now at 8 from the 20 or so it started at and the balls no longer slam into the wooden rail, they just quietly pop into the groove like they should.

I like having this ability to tune the game.

Lots of great details...both the castle and tornado look great and have a hand-made one of a kind appeal. Look absolutely fabulous installed.

Does anyone know if the switches on the double door mech are supposed to be compressed by the mech untill the ball hits the doors and letting the switch release? From what i can see without taking off the upper field thats what it looks like. my door mech is compressing the switch but just barley so when i flip the flippers or any vibration happens near that area im getting phantom rescue on the screen and door hits are registering. If thats the case does anyone know how to get the door to pull snug up against that switch? Do i adjust the spring or is there a way to actually adjust the switch. Machine doesnt have very many plays on it and just all the sudden started giving me the phantom door hits so i dont no what rout to go.

Most all of the switches have some adjustment in them. For some it is just a matter of bending the actuator arm just a bit. I would first check to make sure the switch is not loose, and then check the arm to see if you can bend it outward a bit. (not sure what that switch looks like off the top of my head)

I have to say my RR WOZ is the game I just love to hate. Had it for a few months now and although I am slowly getting better, it consistently kicks my ass every time I step up to the flippers. I am seriously thinking about putting zip ties across the outlane posts so I can at least look like I can score more then 10 points.....those drains are brutal lol. OK, I am not really going to do it, but I am sooo tempted just so I can get some practice time. It's hard to develop any technique when the ball is constantly down the side drain. (I know, I know, that is mostly because I put it there, but I am no pro by any means). Anyone else come up with a set of training wheels or ideas for their WOZ that helped with the ball times?

I get more SDTM from pop bumpers then outlane drains. You moved both outlanes posts down to close them up as much as possible id assume?

Do you know how to drop catch? I find this technique HUGE when playing WOZ.

Yep, 1st thing I did

Depends on what you call a drop catch? Explain the process. I'll admit I don't have a whole lot of technique....I try and watch some of the u-tube videos for pointers, but there is a hang to this game I just haven't mastered yet.

I've was tempted to do that for my wife as the drains can frustrate her as well. She insisted that I leave them stock though as in her words, thats how it would be if she played anywhere else.

I will say that WOZ has made her a better player in general as well. The other day she stepped up to RFM which she used to find very challenging and was like "hey, this game is easy now!"

There is no arm on this switch. Its a little green button. Maybe i should just email jjp. Does anyone have a direct email to someone there who does game support stuff i could talk to and maybe get a description or steps to take for my issue?

This:

and This:

You could say this about any pinball game...but I've found these two techniques to be really helpful in keeping a WOZ game alive.

Adjust the setting that allows you to turn off the pops when both flippers are pushed is a lot of fun and makes the pops more of a strategy than an annoyance.

Sounds like the door switch is misaligned or the spring or door stops need adjusting. Sadly these adjustments are difficult without removing the castle playfield.

Castle playfield removal isnt that hard but it does take about 15 mins and the right tools. The manual has exact instructions on how to do it.
Read the manual several times before starting as it makes total sense, its very good.

Thanks, good stuff there....I need to search more videos. The drop catch I have down, and the dead bounce is iffy....I do have a lot of issues with the live catch, as I always outsmart myself and end up losing the ball off the tip of the flipper, or back up through the lane and into the drain. If I am concentrating I do OK, but when I get cocky, Dorothy quickly reminds me I have no real talent.......lol

Does anybody know what the coil strength settings in milliseconds means. Is a higher millisecond number on things like pop bumpers more gentle than lower? Or is the strength constant with only a time delay between firing?

Not sure how to make them less powerful.

Higher millisecond, higher power. It's how long the coil is active when firing. Lower the time active to make them weaker.