(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

10 years ago


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There are 15,270 posts in this topic. You are on page 304 of 306.
#15151 85 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

New SSD would be blank and not boot. Does the BIOS see the drive?
If yes then you need to do the restore. It's on JJP's website. The full download. Put that on a USB stick (you have to use imaging software to prepare the USB Stick). Instructions are on JJPs support site for the how-to.
Then try to boot with it plugged into the board. If it boots it will re-image the SSD with the JJP software. Takes a while. Next boot after that you will be ok.

Thank you will try that after work tonight.

#15152 85 days ago

looking for a woz backglass or translite.

#15153 85 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

New SSD would be blank and not boot. Does the BIOS see the drive?

Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Put in new SSD and a new MPU and after jumpstart in went into manufacturer's page. Same thing no matter what settings I changed including ones discussed above it just looped and wouldn't go into game play. Fans on and game monitor.

I agree, does the new drive show up in the bios? does the drive show up WITHOUT the JJP dongle connected?

Does the game try to boot the empty drive without the JJP dongle connected?

The SSD drive should be the 1st boot device if it shows up.

It might be a bad hdmi cable to the ssd drive.

You should be able to see the drive listed in the bios under storage or the general info page.

If its the same on ALL mainboards and not showing up then, its disconnected.

Also, the drive will need the OS installed via a USB flash drive if the computer can see the drive.

https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/downloads/

You have to do the FULL 7.04 install.

#15154 84 days ago

I agree, does the new drive show up in the bios? does the drive show up WITHOUT the JJP dongle connected?
Does the game try to boot the empty drive without the JJP dongle connected?
The SSD drive should be the 1st boot device if it shows up.
It might be a bad hdmi cable to the ssd drive.
You should be able to see the drive listed in the bios under storage or the general info page.
l exchange cable and what it says in BIOS.

I have put a new SSD, CPU, and power supply in all since last night. Today had to replace thermistor in main fuse power as it blew.
Still once powered goes into BIOS and therefore no way to get into game menu to do anything including FULL 7.04 install which is what it's been running.

#15155 84 days ago

$45 shipped. Brand new, only plugged in to see it and not one game played on it. Sold as is, brand new condition. The one in pictures is what will be sent.

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1 week later
#15156 77 days ago

Considering joining this club. I think I’m leaning more towards the RR edition. I’ve read the pinned posts already. Any words of wisdom, or warning?

#15157 77 days ago

RR is beautiful with extra figues such as the Tornado and others things. Personally. I prefer how it looks over every other edition. And since made later than earlier editions hopefully some of the early issues were worked on.

#15158 77 days ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

RR is beautiful with extra figues such as the Tornado and others things. Personally. I prefer how it looks over every other edition. And since made later than earlier editions hopefully some of the early issues were worked on.

I bought my RR nib in 2014,first run. It is loaded with a lot of extras. At that time I waited for RR, because I liked it much better, too. It was $8500 free shipping. It will always be with me.

#15159 75 days ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

looking for a woz backglass or translite.

I have one out of a RR, it has a little bit of paint flaking off the top right corner which is why I paid to replace it $$$. It's been in the box for several years now so I'd have to take it out to see if the peeling has gotten any worse or not. PM me if you have any interest in it.

#15160 74 days ago

Not much to update on getting WOZ going. Tried a different CPU, motherboard RAMs, power supply, SSD and I/O board some borrowed from Hobbit. Gone over about every cable and tried replacements, fuses and placing appropriate stuff in home pc. Tried BIOS setting recommended and I think about everything but calling zJJP which I guess is next

Miss playing WOZ as I have 4 pins and gameplay on WOZ is my favorite.

#15161 74 days ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Not much to update on getting WOZ going. Tried a different CPU, motherboard RAMs, power supply, SSD and I/O board some borrowed from Hobbit. Gone over about every cable and tried replacements, fuses and placing appropriate stuff in home pc. Tried BIOS setting recommended and I think about everything but calling zJJP which I guess is next
Miss playing WOZ as I have 4 pins and gameplay on WOZ is my favorite.

This is a tough one.

I think JJP should be involved at this point.

If you are getting a partial boot with missing features, like menu access or coin door buttons, this is way better than before.

Getting a partial boot is usually related to the SATA cable being long and data dropping out, or a low power scenario.

Ive seen this before on very complex software packages that dont fully boot on startup.
Re-booting a few times after the computer warms up a bit usually fixes this.

In your case, as a test, I would try a short SATA cable or replace the cable with a new one and see if it helps.

If you get boots where the CPU fan is not running, its a failed POST.

Re-seating or swapping the RAM between slots can work, as loose ram is likely the culprit.

After several failed boots its sometimes helpful to "drain" all the energy out of the system buy unplugging the power from the wall and trying to start the equipment "unplugged".

Then of course, plug in the power and start again.

#15162 74 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Getting a partial boot is usually related to the SATA cable being long and data dropping out, or a low power scenario.

I'd try a new SATA cable.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Re-seating or swapping the RAM between slots can work, as loose ram is likely the culprit.

I'd try new RAM.

LTG : )

#15163 74 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd try a new SATA cable.

I'd try new RAM.
LTG : )

Me too.

1 week later
#15164 67 days ago

Original WoZ ECLE owner here. Wondering if anyone offers or prints decal overlays to cover PF chipping. I have a chunk of art missing around the State Fair Balloon pop and am looking for a quick fix. I've read old posts that people painted or touched up their PF and I think JJP may have been sending out decals at one point (years ago).

Anyway - this is/was such a common problem on early games that I'm hoping someone has an idea on how to just cover up the damage with artwork printed on a decal or something.

LMK & Thanks!

#15165 67 days ago
Quoted from RandyV:

Original WoZ ECLE owner here. Wondering if anyone offers or prints decal overlays to cover PF chipping. I have a chunk of art missing around the State Fair Balloon pop and am looking for a quick fix. I've read old posts that people painted or touched up their PF and I think JJP may have been sending out decals at one point (years ago).
Anyway - this is/was such a common problem on early games that I'm hoping someone has an idea on how to just cover up the damage with artwork printed on a decal or something.
LMK & Thanks!

Way back in the day, JJP offered a decal to put over that area.

Maybe they still have some? I would call them.

1 week later
#15166 55 days ago

Heh...has anyone had this happen to their WoZ? If so, was there something that caused the power supply to nuke itself or is this just a case of just something on the power supply going boom?

Our WoZ is pretty much stock. So nothing crazy in mods anywhere.

Photo Feb 18 2024, 9 45 03 AM (resized).jpgPhoto Feb 18 2024, 9 45 03 AM (resized).jpg
#15167 55 days ago

Just found this from a few years ago. Our board is in that range of suspect boards. That may be what the issue is. So, time to send a support request to JJP.

WOZ Service.pdfWOZ Service.pdf
#15168 55 days ago

Mine did that same thing, took out the MB also, JJP has a modified ATX power supply that is the replacement. I got the replacement MB from ebay (and an extra).

#15169 55 days ago
Quoted from CurtisC:

Mine did that same thing, took out the MB also, JJP has a modified ATX power supply that is the replacement. I got the replacement MB from ebay (and an extra).

Ouch...you'd think they would cover the MB in cases like this.

#15170 49 days ago
Quoted from Niterider:

Ouch...you'd think they would cover the MB in cases like this.

My inductor went bad as well. Luckily I smelt it burning and caught it before any real damaged occurred. JJP, at first, told me what it would cost to have it fixed. I sent in, it was replaced and in the end they didn't charge me for it. However, this was a few years ago so .....

#15171 49 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Game turned on. Coin door open so it isn't firing anything. Data harnesses can be moved with power on. Power connectors with power off.
See page C-54, that shows the path the data harnesses go. Take a long data harness like W1 to #20 , then go from last working one to the next one that is out, then by pass the one that is out. Keep going until hopefully more light up.
If you are lucky you only took out a board or two.
If not and you get into the big boards, might be time to consider converting to 2.0
LTG : )

Finally getting around to this. Actually had someone give me an extra set of 7.5 boards to see if I could get away with just swapping boards out. However, upon powering game up I now get nothing at all. Haven't touched the machine in 4 months and now upon turning game on it's completely dead?

#15172 49 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

it's completely dead?

LTG : )

#15173 49 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Actually had someone give me an extra set of 7.5 boards to see if I could get away with just swapping boards out.

You can only use a few of the 7.5 volt boards. Or the lights won't work.

LTG : )

#15174 49 days ago

As always Lloyd, appreciate the assistance!

Started to watch the video and see that this is common when the battery dies. I replaced my battery not more than 2 years ago. Is it due to inactivity on the machine? Just curious!

At this point I am going to take the plunge and just install the 2.0 boards and then get back to getting the machine up and running. Unless you advise otherwise?

#15175 49 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Unless you advise otherwise?

Get it running first. Even though maybe no lights.

That way you know it was working after you install the 2.0 kit.

If you don't get it running and install the kit. You won't know where to start to get it up and running. Pre existing problem, or something you did ?

LTG : )

#15176 48 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Get it running first. Even though maybe no lights.
That way you know it was working after you install the 2.0 kit.
If you don't get it running and install the kit. You won't know where to start to get it up and running. Pre existing problem, or something you did ?
LTG : )

Valid point!

So I watched the full video and right off I had a big discrepancy as nothing was powering up. Even the LEDs on the boards in the metal box weren't lighting so I back tracked and came to find that the plug into the cabinet somehow came loose . Pushed it back in and the game is now powering up (simple as that). Onto the lights!

#15177 44 days ago

Top side tear down and can’t figure out where these go! Any help is appreciated…..

E83552FC-D020-4B19-AB41-9BAECAE0F624 (resized).jpegE83552FC-D020-4B19-AB41-9BAECAE0F624 (resized).jpeg
#15178 43 days ago
Quoted from Enchantress:

Top side tear down and can’t figure out where these go! Any help is appreciated…..
[quoted image]

Perhaps those go along the rear metal ball guides? I can't really see anything that stands out on my game that matches those parts.

#15179 42 days ago

Why has no one come up with a plug-in play power source (splitter) for JJP game mods? Had to unplug majority of my mods, just to be safe, due to power acting flakey.

#15180 42 days ago
Quoted from Enchantress:

Why has no one come up with a plug-in play power source (splitter) for JJP game mods? Had to unplug majority of my mods, just to be safe, due to power acting flakey.

You can always use a stand alone power supply (recommended) with a power activated switch.

#15181 42 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You can always use a stand alone power supply (recommended) with a power activated switch.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Have 10-15 mods that need supply.

#15182 41 days ago
Quoted from Enchantress:

Any thoughts or suggestions? Have 10-15 mods that need supply.

Plenty of info on pinside about powering mods.

#15183 40 days ago
Quoted from Enchantress:

Top side tear down and can’t figure out where these go! Any help is appreciated…..
[quoted image]

Opto backers! Keeps them from popping out of housing. Learned the hard way, munchkin land has to come back out. Fingers crossed for castle for now. My lady is playing the “F” out of this thing, no time for it to be down again. Now just need to sort out this auxiliary power thing….

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#15184 39 days ago

Not sure if you're all following the thread about the JJP I/O board cap mod...I did it finally on my WOZ after doing my DI...def improvement. Flippers improved, magnets are way more powerful pops are rocking...I recommend it..https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-fully-populated-enhanced-i-o-board/page/14#post-8058288

#15185 38 days ago

.

#15186 38 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Not sure if you're all following the thread about the JJP I/O board cap mod...I did it finally on my WOZ after doing my DI...def improvement. Flippers improved, magnets are way more powerful pops are rocking...I recommend it..https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-fully-populated-enhanced-i-o-board/page/14#post-8058288

Do you have 2.0 lights installed?

I’m on vanilla 7.5v with my ruby, think my io board needs fresh updated caps too?

#15187 38 days ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Do you have 2.0 lights installed?
I’m on vanilla 7.5v with my ruby, think my io board needs fresh updated caps too?

I do have the 2.0 lights, but I don't think the cap upgrade affects the lights in any way.

#15188 35 days ago

Installing the 2.0 boards and have a question on the Rainbow board. Where are the CAT6 and Power cable supposed to run to the underside of the playfield?

Not seeing it in the directions and common sense tells me to run it through the oblong hole directly under the RAINBOW plastic but that would mean the CAT6 cable needs to be bent drastically? Also, the end of the CAT6 doesn't fit through the opening.
IMG_8924 (resized).jpegIMG_8924 (resized).jpeg

#15189 35 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Installing the 2.0 boards and have a question on the Rainbow board. Where are the CAT6 and Power cable supposed to run to the underside of the playfield?
Not seeing it in the directions and common sense tells me to run it through the oblong hole directly under the RAINBOW plastic but that would mean the CAT6 cable needs to be bent drastically? Also, the end of the CAT6 doesn't fit through the opening.
[quoted image]

Yep, make the drastic bend. Pull that rubber boot off then send it up, then pull the boot back up.

20240309_110050 (resized).jpg20240309_110050 (resized).jpg

#15190 35 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Yep, make the drastic bend. Pull that rubber boot off then send it up, then pull the boot back up.
[quoted image]

Thanks for confirming

#15191 35 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Thanks for confirming

In very tight CATV installations, I just remove the boots.

They harden over time and can be problematic.

There is nothing worse than trying to unclip a data cable that has an ANCIENT rubber boot on it, that is as hard as aluminum.

#15192 33 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Post pictures. Measure power to one board with a meter. No way of knowing if they were ever replaced along the way.
My game for tech support had 5 volt, then 7.5, then 7.5 buffered, then 2.0.
LTG : )

Took a couple pics of the lightboards. Guessing 7.5 unbuffered? I had the hood open so figured I'd check (Throne Room VUK not working. ugh. JJP is helping me troubleshoot).

WOZ lightboard 1 (resized).jpgWOZ lightboard 1 (resized).jpgWOZ lightboard 2 (resized).jpgWOZ lightboard 2 (resized).jpg
#15193 33 days ago
Quoted from Niterider:

Just found this from a few years ago. Our board is in that range of suspect boards. That may be what the issue is. So, time to send a support request to JJP.
[quoted image]

Thanks so much for sharing and also posting that bulletin. I checked and mine has the smaller inductor. I'll reach out to JJP.

#15194 33 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

As always Lloyd, appreciate the assistance!
Started to watch the video and see that this is common when the battery dies. I replaced my battery not more than 2 years ago. Is it due to inactivity on the machine? Just curious!
At this point I am going to take the plunge and just install the 2.0 boards and then get back to getting the machine up and running. Unless you advise otherwise?

Another helpful tip here....I replaced the battery. Tested the one in there and it was almost dead. Phew.... I was not aware that JJP games won't boot with a dead battery. Well noted for my GnR and GF also.

#15195 33 days ago
Quoted from Greaseman:

Throne Room VUK not working.

Work in test ? Broken wire at the coil lugs - dig around the thin wires from the coil windings to the lugs for breaks or crackes ? Cold solder joint on the coil lugs ?

LTG : )

#15196 33 days ago
Quoted from Greaseman:

Another helpful tip here....I replaced the battery. Tested the one in there and it was almost dead. Phew.... I was not aware that JJP games won't boot with a dead battery. Well noted for my GnR and GF also.

Yeah once I figured out the plug came loose inside of the Line Filter Box Assembly I powered the game up and switched out the battery.

Was able to swap in the 2.0 boards and game powers back up. Only issue I may have is that some of the lights, in attract mode, seem to be out of sink.

#15197 33 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Only issue I may have is that some of the lights, in attract mode, seem to be out of sink.

Check the right data cables going to the right boards.

LTG : )

#15198 33 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Work in test ? Broken wire at the coil lugs - dig around the thin wires from the coil windings to the lugs for breaks or crackes ? Cold solder joint on the coil lugs ?
LTG : )

Sorry, I was too brief here what I wrote was misleading....the issue is the Throne Room scoop was not registering the ball. The VUK works in test mode and during ball search so I suspected the Opto. Per JJPs suggestion, I connected the opto to a different board (plugged it into the one for the Crystal Ball opto) and it actually worked - when I put a ball into the Throne Room scoop, the Crystal Ball VUK kicked so the opto appears to be working. Suspecting the board as the issue now - just sent the update to JJP last night.

Also...this is odd. During game start up the Throne Room VUK kicks approx. 10 times in a row. If I open/close the coin door it also kicks approx. 10 times in a row.

#15199 33 days ago
Quoted from Greaseman:

Also...this is odd. During game start up the Throne Room VUK kicks approx. 10 times in a row. If I open/close the coin door it also kicks approx. 10 times in a row.

Because the opto isn't working. Thinks a ball is there.

Clean them and check for broken wires. Be sure thing that kicks the ball up isn't blocking the optos.

LTG : )

#15200 33 days ago
Quoted from Greaseman:

Thanks so much for sharing and also posting that bulletin. I checked and mine has the smaller inductor. I'll reach out to JJP.

They charged me over $300 for a replacement power supply. A replacement is a little cheaper if you have the 2.0 light upgrade, but that’s another $800 when I last checked.

I haven’t had time to install our replacement PS yet in or WoZ….so I don’t know yet if it took anything with it when it blew.

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