Newtown, CT
Quoted from mjs2:Good link on how/what to remove to replace that rubber.
Thanks, good video...
(Topic ID: 87617)
Linked Games
Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013-
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019
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Quoted from LukyDuck:Color does not matter since you are unable to see it. Mine broke shortly after I received it and I had to replace it. Another recommendation is to turn down the sling power in the settings.
And yes, the size listed in the manual is correct.
Great, thanks! Ill take a look at the sling shot power as well.
Oh, another thing that I forgot to mention. My witch is loose. I tried to unscrew her from the back from above the playfield but had no luck.
Any ideas of how to do this? I assume I will need to remove everything from below the playfield?
Quoted from LukyDuck:One thing I do when I happen to have the glass off is rotate the rubbers when they show wear. I know they are cheap to buy, but I like to get my monies worth! It’s like rotating your tires to even out the wear and get the most from them.
Well, in this case it is being cut by the kicker on that slingshot. The rubber is in good shape otherwise. But yes, that is a good idea..
Anyone know how I can get to the bottom screws that holds the witch bracket on? I tried unscrewing her from the back while being above the playfield but couldnt get the angle to unscrew it. Does the witch assembly come out easy from underneath?
I didnt have time last night to do a full check and figured maybe someone here has done this.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The specification on that ring is 2" white.
Its a little more bouncy than black, so you can turn down the power to it 3 notches and it works fine.
Really? A white rubber is more bouncy than a black one?? I would have never known that. Learn something new every day here.
Thanks!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its the witch itself just loose on its mount?
It just pulls straight out with the power off.
Tighten and push it back in.
The mount is loose. I can turn her left or right and she is now moving forward and backwards a bit. The screws look to be underneath her that are loose. Not sure how to get to those exactly.
Quoted from Rager170:The mount is loose. I can turn her left or right and she is now moving forward and backwards a bit. The screws look to be underneath her that are loose. Not sure how to get to those exactly.
Or maybe I should have said the bracket that the witch is mounted on is loose. There are two screws in her back that hold her onto it, and that mounts with two screws under her to the base. Those two screws under her are loose.
Quoted from Rager170:Or maybe I should have said the bracket that the witch is mounted on is loose. There are two screws in her back that hold her onto it, and that mounts with two screws under her to the base. Those two screws under her are loose.
I got the witch off from the top of the playfield. Man, what a PITA the way the angle is for those screws in her back..
Quoted from harryhoudini:The threaded rod the witch rides on pulls out of the game with her. If you grab her below the hat (anywhere but the hat) you can gently pull her directly up and out of the game completely, nothing special to do (but remove the tube if it is on). Putting it back in is the reverse but don't force it or bend the rod.
lol, well.. that information would have served me better yesterday! lol
Thanks! That will make things much easier in the future.
1 week later
Quoted from drfrightner:I just wanted to share this because if you love the game here is another game... we're building a Wonderful Wizard of Oz escape room based on the book. Wouldn't the pinball game look good in here???
I'm having so much fun creating this entire WORLD!
Check it out![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That looks awesome!
Quoted from pinballinreno:You push it sideways, not out.
Its a shiney metal retainer.
It stays in the battery holder. It doesnt come out.
hmmnn, ok ill have to play with it. Thanks.
Quoted from pinballinreno:You push it sideways, not out.
Its a shiney metal retainer.
It stays in the battery holder. It doesnt come out.
Is it like this?
pasted_image (resized).pngBut it does push "outward" it looks. Sorry, just a little confused on the pushing to the side and not pushing out..
Quoted from pinballinreno:Push it away from the battery or squeeze it agsinst the plastic side with needle nose pliers.
Its pretty rudimentary and simple, but it works.
Gotcha. Thanks again.
I felt like a complete moron last night trying to get that out lol.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Is this just a cpu battery? Curious.
Thanks
Yes.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:I thought so, I guess I've just never had to approach that battery yet.
Its interesting that JJP recommends changing them every 3 years but everything ive read online about computers say they last about 10 years...
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Well, I'd say I'm at 7 years.
Is it just settings and high scores?
No. If the battery dies, you wont be able to boot your game and then you have to contact JJP about how to do it.. Ive read some things about doing it but not certain.
Quoted from pinballinreno:there is one setting in the cmos that would have to be adjusted if the battery fails.
The computer will boot just fine with a dead or even a removed battery. It just wont save your settings after power loss (powered down).
set pause on start up errors to "never". (errors like no keyboard etc.)
otherwise you get a keyboard prompt. (press any key to continue etc.)
So, its not terrible if the battery dies. You just have to hook up a usb keyboard to change a setting and you're good to go.
Maybe set the time and date etc.
Pretty simple and straightforward.
Oh. I guess when the manual says it wont boot properly, that is what it means then...
Quoted from BigT:When mine went it didn’t boot until I hooked a keyboard up to it. I used a small dap of hot glue on a wooden dowel pushed it on the battery, let it sit for a couple of minutes to let the glue dry. Pulled on the dowel and the battery came right out. I tried numerous versions of tape and nothing worked.
haha, i was thinking along the lines of how to Macgyver the battery and something like that was in my mind. I didnt realize that you had to push the clip to release the battery. I tried masking tape, packing tape, electrical tape, double sided outdoor permanent tape and duct tape! lol
3 weeks later
Quoted from mjs2:Check the Edge of the munchkin playfiled by the center ramp- ball gets real jumpy and tends to chip that Area...I recommend cliffy for the edge, PITA to do but necessary. Also check for playfiled wear around the forest pop bumpers - think this was also an early issue. Direct print cabinet looks so nice on the ECLE - I went with that and am ordering the 2.0 board set now, will install when I have the time or when a boards go and needed.
Good luck
I have this and it works well and super easy to install.
https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-munchkinland-chrome-edge-protector
Quoted from harryhoudini:Just be aware this is a plastic piece (and sticks on, right?) and cliffs is stainless and thick.
Yea but so what? Its definitely thick enough (thicker than cliffy) to protect anything thats thrown at it. I have the cliffy also but no need to put it on..
Quoted from harryhoudini:I think it could be mistaken for metal by some people
Oh gotcha... I know that some people didnt like it due to its Chrome like finish.. It doesnt bother me but cliffy piece would look better. Its just that cliffy is a PITA to put on.. If I ever need to remove the munchkin land playfield, ill put it on..
Quoted from mjs2:^^. The chrome look is the reason I went with cliffy- definitely considered this option but just thought it drew too much attention.
I can see why you would say that, but once its in the machine and you are playing it with everything else going on, you dont notice it at all.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Probably looks pretty good with the lights flashing off it I'd imagine.
Its not that shiny really. If this makes sense, its a "plasticy shine" vs. a shine of a metal which reflects everything much more.
Ive never been distracted by it or even noticed lights reflecting off of it. If anything, the playfield or glass reflects things far more.
Quoted from beelzeboob:This. Definitely this.
If you want a quality 3D-printed toilet seat with a Play-Doh monkey glued to the side, this is the crystal ball mod for you.
That was a bit uncalled for...
Quoted from beelzeboob:Thanks for your wisdom, enlightenment, and input, Mrs. Houdini. We know your husband will be selling at least one since you've been banned from buying the other mod (that he would have just bought to use as a template for his work). Enjoy the rest of your weekend.
Now...how about that awesome WOZ machine, eh? (Notice how deftly I return the thread back on topic...)
Lol what? Dude you have issues lol hahahha
Quoted from Dashmonster:It doesn’t fit on my Woz
Well thats not good! Its not cut correctly?
Quoted from Dashmonster:It doesn’t fit on my Woz
Lol nevermind, wrong thread!! lol
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Does anyone have a solution for a ball getting stuck behind this area on the upper left playfield. It doesn't happen often but still enough to make it annoying.
Thanks!
[quoted image]
I have this happen once in a while, but like others have said, flapping the flipper gets it out.
What is the slope of your machine?
Quoted from Nugilo92:My WOZ story!
Like almost everyone, I’ve played pinball off and on Most of my life, for about 40 of my 49 years. I’m not even close to being a pinball wizard, far from it. I’ve always pretty much been a bash the flippers guy. Fun, but not very skilled. About 8 years ago I bought my first pin. A very used Addams Family with an unknown past (the coin slots are for Italian Lire.) it was a great addition to a newly created family gaming space in my basement. I also bought every mod possible. I took me about 7 1/2 years of sporadic, problematic play on TAF before I finally decided I needed to get it fixed up and cleaned up and install all the stuff I had sitting in boxes. That process got me pumped up about pinball in a way I hadn’t ever been before. I also got really excited to start really playing pinball, with strategy. Once fixed up (new ramps, thing motor, LEDs, etc), it was playing sweet. I was hooked.
Shortly after reviving TAF, we decided we needed to get a second pin for the game room. We wanted a family friendly, yet quality game with decent depth and a great theme to hold players attention, particularly our kids (currently 2 and 4.) we had a few games on our possible list; Twilight Zone, Stern POTC, Guardians of the Galaxy, Avengers, Deadpool. We searched out every pinball game within 30 minors of our house to try as many games as we good. At our best local place for pinball, Pinball Pete’s, we came across a WOZ and a Wonka. I knew nothing of JJP but they were both beautiful. WOZ in particular. My wife was immediately in love and decided right there that was the one. The search began in earnest.
Within days, we found a NIB ECLE with a factory installed 2.0 lights system. Gary for Abel Electronics delivered and set it up for us. As beautiful as the pin was, it was, and still is a pretty hard game with factory set up. I wanted it to be a little lore fun for casual play and a little easier to gain some ability on it- so I moved in the outlines and castle posts and changed to 5 balls. I’m not ashamed. It has made the game so much more fun for this stage in ownership.
Before the changes, I was laughably only scoring around 30,000 a game. But since, of course, my scores have been improving. They are still laughable, but man, the last couple of days have been monumental in learning the game. I’m starting to get it. There is so much going on. It’s so much fun. I’m anticipating moving the posts back out and setting it to 3 balls again in the future. But for now, I’m just having a blast learning the game. And I had my highest score yet just earlier today. A very hilarious 295,000. I had a couple pretty good balls with all sorts of shit going on. Haha. What a blast. I’m looking forward to my scores going up and exploring more of this deep rule set.
WOZ has been an amazing addition to our game room. And the challenge of improving my WOZ play has also made me much better on TAF. I’m actually thinking about shot placement and strategy in ways I never have. Can’t see a reason to ever get rid of it. We love our 2 pin set up. If there are any lurkers here, I wholeheartedly recommend going for it. Please don’t laugh at my high score. Baby steps.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You can add the ball saver to come on also. I add this with only 5 seconds for when people come over to my house to play. The 5 seconds makes a difference for sure.
Quoted from Thot:this is already my first check but nothing wrong is switch mode with optos and the shoot is with no delay when it appears as if losing ball with save ball
Do you have too many balls installed?
1 week later
Quoted from adol75:I saw one for 8.000$ not so long ago on Pinside, 2.0 lights, HUO, I thought it was the right price for it. Since thoughts is not enough, let's see if it sells and how long it takes to sell, and there's your answer.
Id think thats low personally... Not sure why the $1,500 drop from new... Would make me suspicious.
Quoted from adol75:I think the number of games that have been produced and the reruns put WOZ on the abundant side, adding to that that there isn’t a week without one or two showing up on the market, all of this explains the loss of value at resell.
In parallel 9.500$ for a new game was an expensive price to begin with, thus the loss on used.
Yes, I agree with all of this..
1 week later
Quoted from harryhoudini:If anyone is wanting a playfield I bought one of these and they are in fantastic condition. The defect in mine is not really even noticeable.
ebay.com link
Wow great price.
What was the defect that yours had exactly?
Quoted from beelzeboob:Lloyd is literally the only reason I know how to fix pinball machines, or know how to do restorations, or am even in this hobby to begin with. If he didn't give me the confidence to fix my first machine (a WOZ), I wouldn't be nearly as knowledgeable about the hobby as I am.
None of the other people around here have done anything to help. Not one. It's all been Lloyd, and nothing but.
I'll die whispering his name in obeisance.
Nobody has ever been of help to you?? Thats too bad. Many, many people on pinside have been helpful in general it seems.
Quoted from Nokoro:I think he’s joking.
hahha went over my head I guess. I was gonna say! lol
Quoted from adol75:Mine has always had some kind of a lag, I figured it was related to the time between getting the command and loading the asset.
I never though about it but it might be a good idea to test a high speed sd card. Anyone knows if the card can be copied ?
I would certainly think it can be copied one way or another.
Quoted from Meri-cah:Harryhoudini was gracious enough to share the image file for the sd card. I have a high speed one in there and it still lags. Just weird that it used to be spot on and look nice. Then out of the blue it started lagging. Gonna try some other stuff today. Maybe reroute the wire more directly to avoid any other interference. That’s the only thing I can think of.
Thanks for all the help. It’s nice to have a pinball community
What kind of file was it? Curious...
Quoted from harryhoudini:It's a DMG image of the card.
Is that easy to copy to another card?
Quoted from Meri-cah:It’s simple. At least with a MacBook Pro. I literally downloaded the file. Put in a card, and wrote it. Easy as that
What if you have a PC? Wonder if simply copying the image and transferring would work?
Quoted from harryhoudini:I can convert it, there are other converters out there as well. I am guessing an IMG will work, if you need it let me know and I'll look.
Im just curious and always planning for future issues haha. Figuring if it was easy to copy, I would just save it on my hard drive with my WOZ backup..
Quoted from harryhoudini:Oh you can, I guess I can just post it.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1w-tcg6Y3b-kOzs39J4BOfgDkKhn55RWV
Hey, thanks for that! Much appreciated!!
Quoted from 2000_Alum:Dumb question, is there a shortcut to end games on JJP games (like holding left and start on sterns)? I have kids who press start and walk away, drives me nuts and have not found a solution for JJPs other than opening the door and going into the menu.
Good to know for Stern machines too. I was at a pin arcade a few months ago and there were so many games left mid game.. Was annoying.
Quoted from Jamwin:Hi All,
Question, is there a way to increase the volume for the dialogue call-outs? The sounds are loud but whenever there is any of the characters talking it is barely noticeable. When you start a game and the witch laughs, you can barely hear it. I went into the sound settings but didn't appear to find anything that would fix it. I just updated the code and that didn't help either. I am wondering if there is a lose speaker wire or something but I have the worst luck troubleshooting things on my own and usually end up making issues worse so wanted to throw this out to the masses to see if there is anything I am missing. Thanks in advance.
I would think something is loose somewhere. Check the connections to the metal box in the cabinet. One time I pulled mine slightly and the voices went very quiet.
Quoted from Jamwin:thanks, just so you know, i am borderline pinball illiterate, are you referring to the green ground wire? The manual doesn't help, just tells you how to increase certain sounds, but i have done that and checked the connections.
can you be more specific? thanks for helping a brother out, just not sure what you mean by "ground loop". thanks again, always impressed with how much people help. really appreciate it.
He is talking about a ground loop isolator. They look something similar to this.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Jamwin:okay, i think i am tracking with you. i looked in the manual, looks like it's J5, which is a 3.5mm audio output for the headphones. if i disconnect it and still play it while i order one, will it ruin anything?
No, i really dont think so. What that does is it prevents humms and static noises from entering the speakers. Personally, I dont think thats your issue but it could be. You just never know with these things.
I had an issue like yours and it ended up being that the RCA's for the audio got weird. A little wiggly push in to secure the connection to the CPU metal box fixed it. Then when i lowered the playfield, it happened again. So I went back and again, secured them best I could and its stayed fixed.
This was just my experience but as mentioned, it could be other things. You just never really know.
Quoted from Rager170:No, i really dont think so. What that does is it prevents humms and static noises from entering the speakers. Personally, I dont think thats your issue but it could be. You just never know with these things.
I had an issue like yours and it ended up being that the RCA's for the audio got weird. A little wiggly push in to secure the connection to the CPU metal box fixed it. Then when i lowered the playfield, it happened again. So I went back and again, secured them best I could and its stayed fixed.
This was just my experience but as mentioned, it could be other things. You just never really know.
RCA cables look like this.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Jamwin:Thanks so much for your help. So, I disconnected the 3.5mm cable from the port going into the metal box, and disconnected the ground isolator, went to plug it all back, then realized there are 3 3.5mm ports, green blue and pink and i didn't look before i plugged it back in so then there was no sound at all. lol. so i plugged everything back in, including the isolator, it worked. lol go figure.
I thought since the port in the metal box was pink, i thought it should plug into the 3.5mm pink port leading into the box but it worked when i plugged it into the blue port.
either way, it appears to be working an wouldn't have figured it out without your help so thank you so much. stay safe out there!
These are the same as a computer. Should be the Green connection for audio out.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Devo10:I found that the zip ties inside the box were putting side pressure on the red/white rca cables. Removing the zip ties and reseating them on the connectors fixed the problem for me.
Interesting.. I am going to look at this on mine. Could be my issue as well as others that are mentioning it.
Quoted from Jamwin:Thanks so much for your help. So, I disconnected the 3.5mm cable from the port going into the metal box, and disconnected the ground isolator, went to plug it all back, then realized there are 3 3.5mm ports, green blue and pink and i didn't look before i plugged it back in so then there was no sound at all. lol. so i plugged everything back in, including the isolator, it worked. lol go figure.
I thought since the port in the metal box was pink, i thought it should plug into the 3.5mm pink port leading into the box but it worked when i plugged it into the blue port.
either way, it appears to be working an wouldn't have figured it out without your help so thank you so much. stay safe out there!
Whoops, I didnt read all the way that it worked.. and good, becuase what I thought was wrong haha. Either way, neither would give you a problem as it simply wouldnt work.
Curious, did removing the ground loop isolator fix the problem? If not, you can put it back.
Quoted from Jamwin:initially it didn't work but it could have been because i plugged the end that is outside of the metal box into the pink port so i reconnected everything back the way it was and for giggles fired it back up and it worked. i had taken the playfield up and down too many times and didn't feel like doing it again to disconnect the isolator. but if it happens again i know what to do. i just got this pin and have been playing it with the sound only half working, now that it works it's a whole new experience. much better.
Ok great, glad to hear its working correctly now. So was it most likely a loose wire?
Quoted from irishpin:I have had problems with my winkie drop target for some time now. The test shows that the target is stuck open. I am not by any means an electrical guy, can someone tell me what this means and how do I fix this? Thanks.
Also make sure that its working correctly. I had an issue with mine where it wasnt going down when it should have been. I didnt realize until the problem was fixed how often it goes down by itself.
Quoted from irishpin:I have had problems with my winkie drop target for some time now. The test shows that the target is stuck open. I am not by any means an electrical guy, can someone tell me what this means and how do I fix this? Thanks.
Also to mention to the problem I had, it was caused by me needing to bend the target bracket to allow more room for the target to move. When I did this, it wouldnt allow the metal arm connected to the coil to hit the target to lower it on its own. It took a bit of tweaking (bending of parts) to get to work right.
1 week later
Quoted from eb94114:Anyone have a set of green ECLE side rails they might sell?
There was some damage to my game today, and the rails bent during a sudden shift and force on the cabinet. You can see in the pictures they don't line up with the back box. You can also see the bend.
I was thinking of trying to take them off and just bend them back, but someone suggested I try to get new ones because I won't be able to bend them back without leaving a lot of marks. Any thoughts? If new rails are called for please send me a message if you have any. I did leave messages for JJ today but figured I would ask here as well. Thanks.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The guy doing the powder coating does a great job with these. I bought a set of rails for my machine and they came out excellent.
Quoted from Rager170:The guy doing the powder coating does a great job with these. I bought a set of rails for my machine and they came out excellent.
This was the one for powder coating..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered
Quoted from eb94114:Thanks so much. I reached out to JJP, and they might not have the rails. They will let me know, and I will keep this link handy in case I need to go the powder coating route. Thanks again.
I sent you a PM.
Quoted from eb94114:That's awesome to know. I've been in touch with him already this morning. JJP is out of ECLE rails, so I am hoping Robert can make my game look good again with some new, shiny, straight green rails.
He will... As mentioned above, his work is excellent and prices are fair.
1 week later
Quoted from johnnyutah:The 1k price increase in less than a year was shocking. At first thought it was a mistaken price quote in the email the distributor sent. I asked to clarify that it was $10,500 not what I was quoted less than a year ago of $9,500. The distributor told me there has been a $1,000 price increase since last June when I originally inquired on new WoZ Ruby Red machines. I’m a buyer at $9,5000. With an extra 1k added To WoZ, there are other other machines that I will now look at instead. JJP should update their website because although out of stock, they still show the $9500 price for Ruby Reds.
I thought Ruby Reds were still selling for $9,500 if in stock?
Quoted from johnnyutah:Not according to the distributor I contacted, I was told there has been a $1,000 price increase on Ruby Red’s since I last inquired in June.
Good question that I did not ask. I don’t know if distributors can put mark-ups On pinball machines? Why would you mark up a Wizard of Oz Ruby Red? Must come from JJP for the last run? When I originally asked JJP if they had any in stock to buy direct they told me to call up the distributor that has them.
He has 3 in stock @ $10,500- I told him I’d be a buyer at $9,500 yesterday like they were quoted to me last June. I would imagine that if he could, he would sell at that price. Maybe JJP increased the prices on Ruby Red’s 1k?
Oh really?? So a new RR would be $10,500 to buy??
Quoted from LTG:Didn't fit in there with the switch to the new cabinet.
And it often had problems. So someone decided to make it a virtual monkey.
LTG : )
Gotcha thanks. Was always curious on that one.
Quoted from Doctor6:Here is a video as well...
[quoted image]
Looks normal to me. If not brighter than my machine haha.
Quoted from Nokoro:Wizard: you may need a new LED strip. This is a common failure point for some as I’ve read in this thread.
This happened to my NIB when I got it. New strip fixed it. They are very finicky for some reason. Even mine will flicker quickly at times.
Quoted from johnnyutah:Ok so I got some clarification from JJP today. There HAS NOT BEEN a $1,000 price increase on Ruby Red’s. It is a dealer mark up of $1,000 from Automated Services / Pinballs.com which is fine. No hate on the hustle. Just glad it’s not coming from JJP.
I just wish the distributor clarified that when I asked about the price increase. I feel they owe their possible customer at least that. Builds trust and at least they show they are straightforward. Car dealerships Around here at least have a Dealer Mark up sticker on the window.
With that said, if you are an authorized JJP dealer and you have a New in Box Ruby Red or the Emerald Green version of the Ruby Red available for $9,500 you have a buyer today. PM me.
Im surprised by that actually. I have bought all my games from them. But if there is demand and no more to be seen, then I can understand it. Thats sales like anything else. Mike is a good guy there.
Quoted from fnosm:Do yourself a favor and avoid Automated Services / Pinballs.com.
Pinside is filled with horror stories of people dealing with them.
Many involve RRWOZ.
To be fair a lot of people have had good experiences as well with this company but based on what I have heard and seen with their bait and switch tactics I say skip the grief. You really don't want a machine that bad.
Id disagree with this. I think people say they dont like them simply due to the prices on used games. But they are definitely reputable. Ive bought 4 games from them and even one of my WOZ was a complete dud, he took it back and gave me a brand NIB as replacement. Doesnt get much better than that.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Comet matrix LED stuff is amazing! And so easy to install.
Ive never understood the matrix stuff from them. It plugs into where a bulb normally goes, in order to route a bulb elsewhere.. but do you lose the bulb that is plugged into?
Quoted from johnnyutah:Wish I could have a good experience myself but “Prices“.
To his credit, he answered all of my emails quickly (although vaguely regarding “There was a price increase”). I think the way it was worded I assumed JJP increased the price instead of Automated / pinballs.com adding the 1k dealer mark up themselves.
That said, going through Pinside search, definitely mixed reviews. I think it does say something when JJP tells you to go to them however. They directed me straight to Pinballs.com. That was reassuring to me. Most complaints I read was about their pricing, not service. Their prices are high but people are buying. Who’s fault is that? They charge high, people buy, not their fault!
Those Ruby Reds are Probably all gone by now with a cool, free 3k In his pocket. Don’t blame him.
I’m Still on the hunt however. I’ve decided to not go the YBR route, Wonka is Still a possibility, but man, WoZ is what I truly want. Hopefully they do another run once they reopen and things get back on track. If not, that’s the way it goes.
They are JJP's biggest distributor.
Quoted from adol75:Forget about Wonka and get a WOZ it’s a true masterpiece.
I have them both. They are both great games. WOZ is very floaty, Wonka is fast. Both have short ball times IMO.
Wonka is really awesome but WOZ as a whole is just incredible. WOZ being a wide body really makes it shine. Both great games.
Quoted from Rager170:I have them both. They are both great games. WOZ is very floaty, Wonka is fast. Both have short ball times IMO.
Wonka is really awesome but WOZ as a whole is just incredible. WOZ being a wide body really makes it shine. Both great games.
Also to add, the sound quality on WOZ is definitely better. Both have fun callouts...
Quoted from Nokoro:WOZ stops being floaty when you up the pitch and increase the flipper strength. My WOZ is fast and brutal.
I go back and forth between games. Right now, I’m on a WOZ kick again in terms of what I’m playing. I’m reminded every time I turn it on and plunge a ball just what a masterpiece it is.
I dont know if I believe pitch or flipper strength has anything to do with it. Id say is a design of the game. Theres two orbits and 1 ramp, and the rest is almost target hitting.
Quoted from johnnyutah:Thanks for the heads up. That one is literally over the bridge from me. I’m looking for a NIB for now though.
Id imagine that if any private seller happens to have a NIB, its going to have a mark up as well. And I dont really blame them. Dont know if you will see them NIB again. Maybe I am wrong 
Quoted from Nokoro:If by floaty, you mean stop and go as opposed to flow, then I agree with you. However, if you mean slow moving ball, then pitch and flipper strength can affect that dramatically, and a little adjustment will go a long way.
I mean stop and go...
Quoted from Doctor6:There are more shots than just that, but you're not far off. Crystal ball And castle are the last of your normal shots. Of course you have roll overs to aim for, throne scoop, the "star trek" flipper upper flipper shot to the shooter lane, and two upper playfields, the witch "bash" target. They did a great job shoving tons of things into this game. Furthermore, there is almost never a time a shot doesn't do SOMETHING. Oops I hit the witch. Oops I hit the mystery target. Oops I spelled ball, or rainbow or re lit my mystery award target. They did a great job making every shot meaningful, even if you brick. Lol
Oh, dont get me wrong. I love the machine! Love it!!. But I think its fair for someone know to know that some people dont like the "flow" of this game since its more stop and go...
Ive seen that as the #1 complaint with this game, if you can call it that.
Quoted from Daditude:As far as the games go...I actually think the ECLE WOZ is hands down the best, if you can find one.
Curous why you would say ECLE is best but the RR comes with all the toys in it?
Quoted from Daditude:The coloring, backglass, and topper are all far better on the ECLE.
The wood apron and direct print cabinet are awesome on the ECLE.
I dont like the Toto in the basket. I think it looks cheap.
Lollipop rainbow targets are cool, but you can buy them for cheap...so why pay thousands more?
I will admit that the 2.0 boards are favored by most, but i know people that have had problems with them and people with the earlier boards with zero problems...and from what i understand...you can find each of the boards on both models anyway.
I think thats all opinion except for the 2.0 boards. But I was not aware that a RR cost more...
Quoted from hisokajp:it's an expensive upgrade, i can't say i have done it. happy with what my monitor looks like
I agree. I think it looks great even when compared to my WW.
Quoted from Doctor6:What resolution is your guys' monitor?
No clue. I didnt think there were differences.
Quoted from Doctor6:What resolution is your guys' monitor?
Do you think the resolution would make a difference really? If the graphics and such are displayed at a set resolution, I think the monitor is still going to output the same.
I think about when I play some older video games, it can be a resolution of 720p and regardless of the tv being 1080 or higher, it still displays it at 720. Sometimes the up conversion can be worse looking as it distorts.
Not really sure on all that.
Quoted from Doctor6:If you don't feel it is a big deal, would you trade your 1080p one in your woz for my lower res monitor? Thank you in advance!
Did I say I didnt think its a big deal? I was just asking questions to see if it would make sense for you to do.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:At the time and now, your build date will determine your monitor.
ECLE and builds through 2015 had the lesser monitor. Come Hobbit and Dialed In had the 1080 one. Thus Ruby Red builds also have the newer monitors if Im not mistaken.
Im july 2013 build and I will say playing in the menu when i first got it i discovered this.
Its never really bothered me. You can see the difference when an ECLE sits next to a dialed in.
Very interesting. I still find it very strange. Its not like 1080 wasnt a thing in 2013.
Quoted from eb94114:Has anyone had an issue with the shaker whining or squeaking? I went through some old posts on pinside and found a recommendation by Lloyd to use light oil to fix it. Just curious if anyone has done that, what they used, and if it worked. This is on a factory shaker on a WOZ ECLE, by the way. I welcome any thoughts. It just started whining/squeaking the other day.
I feel like most of my games do this..
Quoted from LukyDuck:Is this a feature?
I have balls that get stuck behind the target all of the time and sometimes behind a ball in the saucer and the target never drops on its own to release them.
Yes, there is a coil that is used to lower the Winkie Target. When I went and bent the target bracket to give more room for the target popping up (Decal was scraping) , I had a weird issue that prevented the metal arm from fully extending to hit it hard enough to lower. Never realized it was a problem until later on. I then found that due to bending the bracket, that arm was hitting the underside of the playfield. Took a little tweaking to get it to work right.
Quoted from Doctor6:Mine did it every time. Now they never do. It is certainly odd.
Mine does it randomly. But why would they choose to make it random? I like having them do it. Especially for those who come over to play as they arent familiar with the machine and people seem to have a hard time following where the ball is once going to upper playfields.
Quoted from fnosm:By not doing it every time it adds a bit of delight to the game as opposed to yet another thing that you soon ignore due to repetition.
Much like the silhouettes flying in front of the DI moon at the match screen. Sometimes there is a silhouette but most times not. I find I watch the moon like a hawk, just in case
Wish there was a setting for that then. I understand what you are saying but at the same time, there are times I want it on all the time.
1 week later
Quoted from LukyDuck:I have to thank you for explaining your issue with the bracket that drops the Winkie target. I never knew the target was supposed to drop during a ball search because mine never has dropped on its own since I bought it NIB. I always thought it’s was an oversight by JJP. I looked at mine and the brass bracket did not line up with the opening. Probably just like yours. I had to take apart the whole drop target assembly to be able to bend the bracket. Looks like the brass bracket was not attached/properly aligned to the silver bracket. Works now though!
Thanks again rager170!
Hey, just saw this and glad it helped!
Quoted from meSz:Just picked up ECLE and one thing I noticed is the speech is very low (i.e. when Dorothy talks to Toto or the witch screams). I have the "Speech Mix" at 66. Is that the setting that affects the speech/volume of the characters?
Check the RCA cables going into the CPU metal box. I have had issues where they come slightly loose and the callout get really low.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its a lot nicer.
Its a lot more expensive too!
Quoted from jasonbar:Anybody have any reviews of this product?
I've always found this game in its stock state to already be chock full of features & toys & stuff, so I have interest in very few of the mods out there, especially the cosmetic-only mods.
But this functional mod sounds attractive & useful, so I'm curious to see what users think.
Thanks,
-Jason
I like the idea of it being functional as well.
Quoted from LukyDuck:I own Gouveia's Crystal Ball Mod and love it. Looks great and makes the video visible while playing.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-witch-red-smoke-mod/page/77#post-5669412
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My issue with it is that base it sits on. Honestly cant stand it. Wasnt too thrilled either about having to mod the mod in order to get it installed, meaning breaking your current crystal ball mount to install. For that price, he should have given another crystal ball. Imo of course.
Quoted from LukyDuck:I own the movie and the platform with the monkey’s on G’s mod looks just like the one in the movie.
I am patiently waiting for Gouveia to start selling Witch 2.0 as I do not own the first version.
I also love my OZ lanes mod by Lior.
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I have this too and when I got it, was sooo mad I spend $200 on it lol.
Thats when I decided no more expensive mods.
Quoted from beelzeboob:Well, at least I'm glad you can finally admit it's nicer. And quality costs money, especially when there's no 3D printing involved.
I never said it wasnt nice. I said I dont like the base as it looks like a pan handle to me.
IMO, none of these mods are worth the price.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have pinstaduim lights, they are awesome but problematic if you are doing repairs where you have to raise the playfield every day..... Other than that they are really nice and bright.
You still have to add a couple spotlights to solve some dark areas due to shadows etc.
Thats interesting. I never thought about them getting in the way of the playfield when needing to raise.
Quoted from LukyDuck:From what I have seen, I was lucky that JJP did not attach my crystal ball to the base properly. The ball fell off shortly after I bought the pin and I am glad I glued it back on with hot glue. It was simple to remove and install on the mod. I used hot glue again when installing it to the mod.
Lucky you!! One of those funny situations that typically would be a problem but worked in your favor at the end.
Quoted from meSz:Hey all posted before with no luck but looking for input on mods.... what mods people feel are a must and most importantly who to purchase from. Finding the same mods are sold by different places with price ranging all over the place! (i.e. lighted balloon mod sells for 24.99 on Mezel's site but also on Pinballmods site for 38.00).
The machine I have (ECLE) came with a set of castle walls that appear to be made of foam-like material and painted. Not sure who made them but wonder if there's a better set out there?
IMO no mods are really a must for games except protection mods like Cliffys.
Quoted from Meri-cah:Has anyone installed Pingraffix art blades to their WoZ? I just got them in the mail and am looking for install opinions. My ghostbusters was super easy. Unplugged 3 connectors and took the entire playfield out. WoZ has a lot more connectors.
Thoughts?
I can only recommend removing the playfield. I have ruined so many sets trying to put them in with the playfield in, that I have completely given up on doing it any other way.
Quoted from bigbadmiker:My wife and I just worked on putting Pingraffix art blades on her WOZ. Got one side done and saved the other side for another day. I have to say, what a huge P.I.T.A. Wrinkled, had to use a blow dryer to try to even them out when installing. There were some small folds we just have to live with because it wouldn’t go on straight otherwise. Managed to hide the couple folds pretty well. I put Stern blades on Ghostbusters and it was so much easier. Not looking forward to putting the other side on.
I hear ya. I did the GB ones also by removing the playfield. WOZ isnt one that I want to remove. I have a set at home that I have basically said ill never put on as I know they will get ruined haha.
Quoted from Meri-cah:Ok. SUCCESS IN PINGRAFFIX BLADES!! So, I pulled the playfield toward me until the furthest back rubber sat on the lock down bar area (lockdown bar removed of course). I propped up the back of the playfield above the height of the side rails. Then there it was! Fully available side to stick to. I use basic small clamps from harbor freight and “lock” it in place. Then I slowly peel away the back and stick on. No wrinkle. Just perfect!
[quoted image][quoted image]
I noticed in this picture that you removed the witches tube and put in trees. I had the same idea but never could find trees to fit well.
Can I ask where you got them from?
Quoted from Meri-cah:I bought these trees off amazon. They were around $12 and came in a 28 pack. Only needed 3 or so. Couldn’t stand the witch’s tube. Not once have they trapped the ball or blocked anything. If you’re near Phoenix you can have a couple of trees for free! Haha. Prop up your playfield and do the side art stickers. Looks incredible and is easy if you do what I did in the pictures I posted.
[quoted image]
Very nice of you but unfortunately I live in CT. Ill try to track them down on amazon.
What did you use to prop up the playfield to prevent it from falling forward or back?
Quoted from pinballinreno:I use small flat priorty mail boxes set onto the cab internal rear side rails.
You can also just stack a couple cardboard boxes of a suitable height in the center of the cab tucked under the rear edge.
Be very careful not to tip the playfield out of the game.
If i do this, i wrap a phone book in a bath towel and set it on the rear of the playfield to give it a little more weight.
Great idea! I wouldnt have thought to use boxes like that.
Thanks!!
Quoted from LukyDuck:I wonder how many people have a phone book in their home these days. Probably more than I would guess.
Do you know I keep getting them in my mail and they immediately go to recycling. I havent looked at a phone book since the 90s lol. Jeez, save the trees already!
Quoted from jasonbar:I think I'm in the minority. The stock lighting pleases me.
The only exception was putting in a lit Winkie target. It was completely impossible for me to see if the stock black target was up or down. This affected gameplay, so it was a priority for me.
Thanks,
-Jason
I agree and did the same with the winkie target. Its a great mod!
1 week later
Quoted from d0n:Hey folks, I just bought a 2019 rerelease RR WOZ (#707) with only 84 games played. It's mint in every way BUT... I got it home today, set it up, leveled it and in the middle of second game, it just powered off by itself. It won't turn back on. I've tried changing outlets but no luck.
this is my first JPP game and I am sort of bewildered. Is there a reset or fuses or something I should be looking for?
[quoted image]
Sounds stupid, but did you make sure the power plug didnt detach or come loose where it connects to the machine?
Quoted from bobukcat:Congrats on the great pickup! Have to start at layer one (I'm a networking guy) so not a stupid question. Assuming that's been checked look to see if any of the LEDs are on in the computer box and of course the main fuse in the power box where the power switch is.
Thanks. Thats how I typically try to think about things. Start from the ground and work my way up. Often its something simple thats overlooked causing an issue.
Quoted from d0n:I have 2 issues on my 2019 re-release with just 85 total games on it.
1. The ball travels through the OZ rollovers and then get stuck on top of a kicker. It seems like there SHOULD be a rubber ring surrounding this kicker but there is not one. See pic. If it is indeed missing a rubber ring, how in the world can I get it on there! It is deep within the game. It seems like JJP workers forgot to put a rubber ring here. Don't they do any kind of quality control... like playing each game before boxing it up?
2. Rescue switch error. The right side of the door never opens... only the left opens. I assume the right side door should open right? What to do to fix it?
I need to thank LTG Lloyd for helping me restart the computer and get my game playable again. He's a huge help to the jjp community.
[quoted image]
Can you tell us what is needed to restart the computer if it stops working? Is this caused by the battery dying?
Quoted from Doctor6:Guys. Everything works great all the other times. The coils are all working great. The switches all register. It is just on a multiplayer game every once in a while it simple doesn't know better. Ther than that only diverter coil works 100% of the time. Only happened twice which makes it much harder to pinpoint. I was thinking it could be software related, perhaps.
EDIT: I have a theory. In an attempt to eliminate the random extra ball slipping out when the ball lock let one go, I reduced the coil power.... I wonder if it is too low and maybe all three balls pushing against the gate is what is happening. I will try to increase the coil power and see of that's what is happening.
Also to mention, aside from the coil power, I believe there is a timing setting for 1, 2 and 3rd balls for that arm to raise. I played with that a little and it helped my machine as I was sometimes having a ball let out.
Maybe that helps assuming that a ball is coming out when locked is the problem..
Quoted from RoboBot:Hey all, I put MM WOZ Pots on my pin and they really seem to wash out the OZ. Wondering if that's normal or if the LED strip is failing. I did align it under the original OZ plastic. Appreciate the help.
The Mezel Mods throne room pots are too bright?? That seems very strange.
Maybe I am mixing something up?
Quoted from Kkoss24:I have no idea if true but has anyone here heard no more widebody for JJP?
Ive heard the same thing but nothing official from them. Ive also heard they wont be doing upper playfields and the like, but again, who knows if thats true.
Although, Wonka is not wide body nor does it have other playfields on it, so I guess we will have to see what comes in the future.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Hey guys during shipping the two side arts on the head of the machine got damaged a bit. I have replacements and was going to install them but peeling off the old ones has been a pain, they just kind of chip off. Anyone have a better way to remove old decals from the head of the machine?
Thanks
first thing I would think of is using a heat gun.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Ok I can try that thanks
Ill find one on amazon
That or check Harbor Freight if there is one in your area. I got mine for like $8 or so.
Quoted from Meri-cah:Yes! I have the pingraffix ones. Just installed about a week ago. Look at my post for tips on installation. It’s easier than you think and they look great
haha, ive ruined like 8 sets between different machines. I dont see how anyone is able to do this without removing the playfield. You certainly have more skills than me...
I have a set of these that I essentially figure Ill never put in.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Guys my sound is really horrible going in and out and low volume and clues ? Also my left tree bumper doesn’t seem to work again
Check the RCA connections going to the CPU metal box. Reseat them.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Is it normal for the crystal ball video to freeze ? During my awesome game yesterday all it showed was a horse the whole time
Yes, that is normal. You can just wait it out and it will eventually reset or power cycle the game.
Others will say you can try reseating the SD card in the crystal ball, but that never has worked for me..
You may see a few strange things from the crystal ball. I get coding showing sometimes, other strange things that I dont even know how to explain. But again, I have been told by JJP this is normal.
Quoted from Yoxxy:What is the ground loop insulator? Mine has been doing the same as of recent.
Its the box that connects the 3.5mm line. Looks something like this.
But im surprised that would cause voice issues and such. Ground Loop Isolators are to keep humms and static noises out of speakers.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Oneangrymo:I replaced the old one in my WOZ RR that originally came with machine with this, fixed all my audio problems so far. The volume would go up and down, sometimes just stop, and also weird static/humming, all gone now.
Interesting. Ive had issues with voices going low and found it to be the RCA cables.
But regardless, glad you were able to find the problem.
Quoted from bigbadmiker:I replaced the rca cables and still had the low volume voices. Bypassed the ground loop isolator and the issue was resolved.
Good to know incase the issue comes back to me.
Quoted from zaphX:Does anyone else frequently get a loud metal smack and loss of momentum when plunging?
Just thinking, does your machine have a cliffy protector around the muchkinland edge? Perhaps the metal is sticking out towards the shooter lane and the ball is hitting it on its way up?
3 weeks later
Quoted from HIPPY:I had my crystal ball go dark and it took a long time to find this fuse was blown. Not a JJP or, any retail near me. I found them on EBay. They are located next to the plugin on the board for the crystal ball.
[quoted image]
Dont they sell these at any hardware store or car repair store?
Quoted from hd60609:They do sell the mni-blades at most stores... Walmart, Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto Parts. The lowest I found them carry was a 3 amp. Having trouble already, I was not willing to risk over fusing. The 1 amp was just hard to find as pinballinreno mentioned.
Quoted from HIPPY:I tried at a local Ace hardware, they said the same, too low amperage. I went to an automotive, and Walmart, too. Gave up and went to Ebay. I see Amazon does,too. The manual doesn't say. When it blows, everything else still runs. Only way to check it, is pull it. I was very happy to find the problem, though.
Interesting...
Quoted from zaphX:I used lithium grease but it doesn't take much at all. My flying monkey is flying now.
I feel like mine gunks up quickly. Maybe I am adding too much.
Quoted from eb94114:Lloyd, I finally got around to putting some 3-in-1 oil on the shaker where you suggested. Unfortunately, I still get the high-pitched squeaking/whining sound. I get that same sound even if I just manually move the shaker around a revolution or two. Any other thoughts on what I might try? Thanks.
I have this also... I just figured it just comes with the territory. I feel like shakers in all of my machines make noises like this.
Quoted from Yelobird:I only use Superlube synthetic anywhere on a pinball machine that must use lubricant. (not many places!) Will not gunk up or get sticky and works great.
amazon.com link »
Awesome! I will definitely give this a try.
Thanks!
Quoted from Kkoss24:How’s goin peeps.I was looking for some help I just replaced rub on sling under munchkinland and I’m down to getting the lock nut on the tornado screw closest to ball lock ...I was wondering if I can take a screw out of the tornado to twist it sideways to achieve that or is there a locknut on the inside of the tornado that will fall .Thanks for any help much appreciated
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I dont have that mod but I would be surprised if it had a locknut inside of it.... Just my 2 cents..
Quoted from jasonbar:Glinda tried to knock my initials off the high score board. My scores are safe...for now...
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Hey, thats a nice little stool there. Where did you get it? Ive been looking for a cheap one so that my daughter can play. She looks to be about the same age and has a Dorothy costume haha.
Quoted from SLRage:Do not buy anything from this guy!
lol
1 week later
Quoted from harryhoudini:Hey folks, just announced a topper companion to our Throne Room mod.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-enhanced-interactive-throne-room-by-pmc
That looks pretty awesome!
1 week later
Quoted from pinballinreno:Looks like regular 7.5v system to me. The downloadable manual shows the differences.
Mine has been rock solid for years now. If it works, dont fix it.
Im not a fan of the 2.0 system until they sort out the dim GI lights on it with a code update, then maybe.
I get that but i wouldnt be a fan of my lights not working in the future..
Quoted from harryhoudini:Getting sick of looking at the switch and gate on the ramp. [quoted image]
This looks good!
Quoted from zaphX:I think I've got my answers from this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-right-castle-door-partial-open
1. I need 7/32 allen wrench, which I definitely do not have. Ok!
2. The problem is almost certainly the motor, as loose set screws manifest as a floppy door not a partially opening one.
Parts order for the morning. Good to walk away from it for now anyway!
Funny, just last night I had an issue with set screws on a bar fridge and couldnt find an allen key to fit. I did find that a star bit worked just as well.
Quoted from scottieIA:Code Update Idea: On the high score display, show how many gems you earned. If you played this game long enough you start to notice certain accomplishments that earn you gems. Anyway you can show them would be fine by me. One idea would be that you would color a numeral color of gem you earned. I know there are 8 and that would be a 10,000,000 or higher to color all of them so you could so something special (rainbow colors if you got all eight, since its SOTR). And if you scored seven gems, I'm sure you would have broke a million anyway. That's just one idea. You could simply show gems next to the score. I know most people just care about the score but this would be something a little more more special and informative.
What are gems in this game? lol
Quoted from Rager170:What are gems in this game? lol
I really wasnt being sarcastic. I dont think ive ever noticed gems in this game?
Quoted from bobukcat:They are actually called jewels and they are awarded for certain major tasks (melting the witch, collecting all the awards from the wizard, completing RecueMB, etc.) you have to collect all of them to get to SWOTR which is the final wizard mode. The map on how to collect them and progress towards collecting them is shown during attract mode and can be seen in instant info by holding down a flipper button in game.
oh gotcha, thank you. No wonder ive never seen them haha.
Quoted from bobukcat:You've certainly seen at least one or two of them that are relatively easy to earn towards Melt the Witch mini-wizard mode.
I dont think ive ever done the melt the witch minimode.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Holding the left flipper button during a game gives you the status screen with emeralds acheived and a map of accomplishments.
These look like roads that lead to the witch battle.
Gotcha, thanks. Its pretty sad that ive had it for over a year now and havent done this. Now its my mission haha.
I feel like theres so much going on, that when I get it going, I lose focus on what I am supposed to be shooting at to move forward with the mode.
Quoted from bobukcat:No, you don't have to complete them or it would be really hard to ever get there.
haha I thought so also.
Quoted from Navystan:Bummer. Just got 4 motors for castle doors. None had capacitors on. So, more work to do.
These came from JJP?
Quoted from Nokoro:Melt the Witch is one of the best wizard mode / mini wizard modes in pinball. The sounds, images, lighting are all just terrific. And the mode itself is an exhilarating rush. Difficult to complete but not impossible. I melt her a couple of times a year, and finishing the mode is extremely satisfying with well done fan fare.
I WILL have at least gotten to that mode by the end of the weekend!!
Quoted from Navystan:Anyone install the illuminated Winkie target mod? Like it? Worth installing?
Yes, its awesome! I have the red one.
1 week later
Quoted from zaphX:Center post is standard on WOZ.
The coil power to make the crystal ball VUK is easily adjustable in software. I wouldn't give it a second thought! (I actually turned mine DOWN so the ball wouldn't go flying off the wireform.)
I turned mine down. I turn most of mine down just enough to get where it needs to go. I never feel the need to have the ball flying through ramps at higher powers.
Quoted from Kkoss24:Sooooo.....what’s the best product to grease my monkey ? Lmao no really what type of grease is best to use I’m due I can hear it .
I dont agree with white lithium.. no offense to others who use it. I constantly find it gunking up after a short while and then I have to clean it off. Maybe im applying too much but ive had to do this process twice with it and its just an annoyance to me.
I took advice and bought the super lube as mentioned. Havent used it yet but I believe it to be thinner than the lithium grease.
1 month later
Quoted from pinballmlb:I would appreciate a little help troubleshooting an issue I'm having.
For a couple of weeks, sound was dropping down to very faint especially losing the higher pitches (witch's scream at beginning, vocal callouts, but with music less subdued, but quieter). A reboot or jostling the machine would work. I thought it might be speaker cables, so I fiddled with those and a couple of times thought that maybe fixed it.
Last couple of weeks, issue is now always there. I again tried speaker cable fiddling to no avail. Thought it might be a bad cable, so bought a replacement, but that doesn't work.
Any suggestions on steps I should do to try to fix this?
Thanks in advance.
I had a similar problem and the fix was to adjust the RCA cables going into the PC box.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from pinballmlb:I would appreciate a little help troubleshooting an issue I'm having.
For a couple of weeks, sound was dropping down to very faint especially losing the higher pitches (witch's scream at beginning, vocal callouts, but with music less subdued, but quieter). A reboot or jostling the machine would work. I thought it might be speaker cables, so I fiddled with those and a couple of times thought that maybe fixed it.
Last couple of weeks, issue is now always there. I again tried speaker cable fiddling to no avail. Thought it might be a bad cable, so bought a replacement, but that doesn't work.
Any suggestions on steps I should do to try to fix this?
Thanks in advance.
I had a similar problem and the fix was adjusting the RCA cables that connect to the PC box.
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:In the club!
I need to get a Free Play card for the apron yet.
[quoted image]
In one of the threads, someone does very nice pricing cards for free. I downloaded the pay ones but pretty sure he made free ones also. Let me see if I can find it.
Edit - Found they are only for pricing denominations, but still very nice in case you change your mind.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only/page/14#post-5301811
Quoted from meSz:Can also go with this one.....
[quoted image]
Thats a nice one also.
Quoted from d0n:dumb question, what is the size of the actual cards on woz?
I actually dont know. I never got around to printing those cards... Sorry I cant help more.
Quoted from Fieldsweeper:SO I am looking at maybe getting one of these. Is there any common problems or things I want to look out for? Will be getting a regular one and not the LE version.
Any cool mods I can tell by looking? Things that break easy that may not go noticed unless looked for?
thanks in advance.
IMO, you want to have 2.0 boards or risk of them going bad in the future. The complaint with these 2.0 boards is that the GI isnt as bright as other boards.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Not to argue the point but I have setup a 2.0 and a regular LED woz at the factory years ago and people couldn't tell which was which. That said, there are some on here who are adamant that the 2.0 LEDs are dimmer so YMMV.
Oh interesting. I have no experience with other boards as mine came with the 2.0. Ive seen a video here and there comparing and people complaining about the brightness, so thats all I am going off of..
Quoted from Nokoro:You can increase the brightness of the LEDs in settings. I found when I put 2.0 on the max setting, it was no different than the old version 1 boards. Some people say the GI is a bit dimmer though. I haven’t noticed all that much but GI is just dim on WOZ in general.
Are you sure? I thought the LED settings were for inserts only? Those I dont need any brighter.
Quoted from Nokoro:Sorry. I think you might be right. I misread your post.
Yes, the inserts are definitely just as bright, especially if you up them in the settings. The GI might be a different story, but it never bothered me, and you can always add some spotlights to brighten things up.
Not a problem... It never bothers me either. I assume maybe it would if I had the old boards in that were brighter, then put new ones in and noticed the difference.
1 week later
Quoted from Pinforlife:Has anyone purchased this by chance yet?
It’s made by “shapeways”.
Built for jjp woz. Looks amazing!
[quoted image]
I believe they are unpainted from Shapeways...
2 weeks later
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Such a great feeling i'snt! I beat it a week or more ago and haven't done it sense. Incredibly rewarding. Congratulations!!
Yes, I was very proud of myself! I was all excited to tell my wife (who is not into pinball at all), and I ran upstairs to tell her only to find out she was yelling for me to help with the kids and groceries but I was too engaged to hear her... whoops! haha
But I was surprised to see that there is no high score or anything for melting the witch.
Soooo, have anyone really gotten to Somewhere Over The Rainbow mode? Do you actually have to complete Rescue Multiball, Crystal Ball Multiball and the others or just start them?
Also, how do you start Haunted Forest Multiball. Ive done it once but completely by chance.
Quoted from MrMikeman:Yes you need to complete Rescue multiball and many other things (collect 8 jewels in total). It's in the manual page A-20.
I've been close. 5 of 8 jewels collected. Fought the witch THREE times during that marathon of a game and never melted her. I was also missing master fireball frenzy and complete Rescue multiball(got super jackpot but not mega jackpot).
Haunted forest Multiball is the 5th Haunted mode. Starts like the others.[quoted image]
Quoted from pinballinreno:getting 7 of 8 emeralds is pretty common.
The hardest is the rescue multiball one, its near impossible.
pinballgoddess is one of the best WOZ players out there, and still hasnt managed it.
She gets 7 of 8 emeralds all the time.
I have joked about having me gain this emerald with the glass off, first, before she plays, but she refuses lol.
Im confident due to the difficulty of this, a lot the people that purport doing it are cheats.
Read the rules on it, its near impossible.
Good info. But wow, thats like unbelievably hard.
Found this on youtube. This guy is amazing.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Medic:I recently started looking into WOZ. It seems monkey mech is a must? I looked into YBR edition but no monkey. Anyone have YBR edition and happy with it? Any regrets? If anyone is selling RR edition within 3-4 hours from Chicago you can PM me. Thanks!
I dont know if I say its a must. I have to clean off my threaded rod so I disabled it so it doesnt break. Im not missing it as much as I thought I would..
If it were a choice of having no WOZ or having the YBR, Id definitely go with the YBR...
Quoted from Calfdemon:Oh, so it is the non-threaded rod we are supposed to be greasing?? I have always put the grease on the threaded rod.
Me too. Didnt realize you have to do both.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Just put the silicone grease on the monkey and witch rods once in awhile.
They will last forever.
Yes, I was using white lithium grease, but this gunks up on me quickly. So I took advise from others and bought superlube. Havent had a chance to use it yet. Pinball maintenance is next week for me while I am off..
Quoted from mjs2:Getting a constant clicking sound coming from the castle area during some modes - especially multi-balls? Any recommendations on where to start with trouble shooting would be appreciated.
Adding castle doors - kickouts - monkey mechs all work fine during gameplay.
Thx in advance.
Mike
My guess is that its the Winkie target trying to get put down. I had this problem a while ago.
Test the coil up and down and see if they both work properly. And by down, I dont mean by doing it phsyically. There is a coil to drop the winkie target specifically.
Quoted from mjs2:I’ll give it shot in cool tests later tonight - tried to replicate it last night with the video feature on phone ready to go... nothing after 15 games.
Thx
Ill be curious. What you explained with the clicking is exactly what I had happening. Apparently my issue was there from when I bought the game as I didnt even realize the coil went down by itself when the game calls for it. Only after fixing it did I realize it.
Quoted from bobukcat:Interesting but unless you're playing multi-player games I can't think of any time other than Melt The Witch when the game drops that target for you. Am I missing something?
There are other times. I cannot think of them specifically. I have only gotten to MTW just very recently and have seen the winkie target drop many times before MTW..
But also to mention, those other times never got in the way of the game, which is why I never noticed it before investigating that clicking noise... But, I believe at the end of a game, the winkie target drops.
Quoted from mjs2:. I’ll check it out - thx rager and Lloyd.
Just saw your response.. I figured that was the issue. Were you able to resolve this?
For mine, that metal lever that pushes the target to make it go down was not engaging fully. It was catching on the playfield a little and I had to bend it slightly to engage the target fully.
the red circle on the picture is the lever that i needed to tweak a little. Once I did that, it was able to hit the target hard enough to drop it...
wonka coil1 (resized).jpg 1 month later
Quoted from fnosm:You guessed right, but you got the color wrong.
I have the Cliffy on my Throne Room so it looks a bit different.
[quoted image]
Confused by this. Stock is black rubber...
Quoted from fnosm:You are correct the stock is black. But this game is visually improved by using other colors for the rubbers. These are the colors I use on my RRWOZ.
The GITD color goes extremely well with many area on this playfield.
I do have black under the apron, next to the witch and the minipost in the above area.
Also black on either side of the castle door hole, but these rubbers don't really need replacement, they are not listed in the manual and are not in the pic below.
[quoted image]
Ahh gotcha. I was curious as I did notice the other colored rings in that pic...
Quoted from harryhoudini:I'm no apologist for JJP, had my share of issues and did the 2.0 swap on one of the 3 WOZ I have owned. Really was not happy with the POTC playfield situation, but that's also not to mention the WoZ playfield situation. I have one of each playfield under my bed, just waiting for the time I need to swap. But if you compare their build quality now to any other manufacturer it would be hands down the best. Don't even venture over to the R&M thread... Spooky's what, 4th game or so and they are still having lots of issues with build quality. JJP makes the highest quality games around from every major manufacturer I've seen. I can't speak to MM or CGC but compare side by side and JJP makes a quality build.
Im sure you have much, much, much, more hands on experience with these machines than myself, but personally, the JJP machines that I have owned need much more fixing than my other machines. I find them very finicky.. Also to note, JJP is still having playfield issues that are talked about often. Everyone knows you need to be careful with JJP and their pooling playfields. Perhaps this has been sorted out but the threads on here keep going.
Dont get me wrong, I love JJP but just being honest.
3 weeks later
Hi Guys,
Have a small, minor problem maybe someone can help with. I noticed that when plugging in my headphones, I cannot access these two greyed out options in the menu. I would like to make the headphone jack volume louder than it is, without adjusting the machine volume. I am at the max so far.
So far I cant seem to figure out how to do it...
20210227_072537 (resized).jpgQuoted from mikepmcs:I don't know the fix but found these threads. Maybe they can help.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-low-headphone-volume
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/headphones-dont-work-on-woz
Thanks... The first link was a bit useful... Just still not sure why these two options are greyed out when the headphones are plugged in. All I want to do is increase that one option for headphone volume...
Quoted from meSz:May be a dumb question but .... can you adjust them first and then plug in the headphones?
Well, they do work and what I can do is simply open the door to turn the machine volume up, which increases the headphone volume higher.
What I simply wanted to do was increase that one setting so that the headphone volume is much higher, then be able to use the coin door headphone controls to lower it down to where I want. As it is now, the max headphone volume is simply too low.
Like I said, its a minor annoyance issue. I just don't like having to crank up the machine volume to get decent headphone volume because I know I will forget to lower the machine volume and then it will be super loud when I unplug the headphone or turn back on the machine at my next time playing. I have two young daughters and I play at night mostly, so loud noises are to be avoided ha.
Can you send some pics taken from your machine? Ive been curious about this mod since you can adjust the angles but havent seen any pictures from players...
Quoted from MrMikeman:Players perspective. In my case I had to insert a small spacer underneath (blue key fob visible). Otherwise the ball was contacting the crystal ball on the u-turn ramp and getting bumped off the wireform. All machines are slightly different and my wireform is sitting about 1/8" too high.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks. The mod looks good.
Curious, you had to put the spacer in the front to prop it up. I would think that would make it sit further back towards the wireform, where the ball could hit it more?
How does that mod install? Is it using that bolt/nut that holds the wireform as the stock did?
Quoted from fnosm:This has to be the PMC crystal ball mod because the Gouveia crystal ball mod is unobtanium.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pmc-woz-crystal-ball-upgrade-announcement-
Quoted from MrMikeman:The spacer goes all the way back. The whole base is lifted about 1/8".
The install/adjustment is a PITA. But once it's in it's awesome. You can't make adjustments when it's installed. Has to be removed, adjusted, installed again.
I just had most adjustment screws/bolts tight enough for some friction but still moveable. Once I was happy I carefully uninstalled and tightened everything, then re-installed. Once I started playing that's when I noticed the pinball would fall off the wireform. Tried a lot of things but in the end just lifting the base a little provided the clearance I needed.
Yea thats a bit of a pain. I was under the impression that you could just adjust it on the fly if needed.
Im not really a fan of either of the Crystal Ball mods. The other one by Gouveia, I do not like that you have to break your original mod to install the new one, and personally, i have a hard time with that pan handle base. Just dont find that attractive at all and sticks out like a sore thumb.. To each their own of course.
All in all, the stock crystal ball doesn't bother me really at all. I just wanted to be able to adjust it.
Quoted from MrMikeman:I don't understand what you mean by having to break something. The PMC mod requires you to re-use the screen (of course otherwise the price would be insane). You don't break anything. Just remove the screen and re-attach it to the improved crystal ball. One thing I have to mention and isn't really visible in pictures is how bright the image is in the new ball. The contrast is amazing. The JJP ball is plastic. The mod is real glass. Makes a big difference.
I guess you didnt understand where I referred to the other crystal ball mod where you have to break the stock part?
Quoted from Calfdemon:He was talking about the Gouveia mod. In that one, you reuse your original crystal ball, so you have to break it from the stock mount, which results in the stock mount being destroyed most of the time. The PMC mod supplies you with a new crystal ball, so your original one stays intact.
Correct.
Quoted from MrMikeman:I know you referred to his mod but I didn't know that about Steve's mod. Kinda surprised really. Getting a real glass ball makes a very noticeable difference I would have thought his mod would have that given the quality of his stuff.. Time for a cyrstal ball v2.0!!!
I was surprised that it didnt come with another glass ball also, especially for the cost. 2.0 hahaha
Myself, I never like getting rid of stock parts because you never know when you will need it..
Quoted from darkryder:That mod looks great, nice job! I’d jump on it myself, but that doesn’t look like it will work well with Pinstadiums, so it’s a pass for me. I have the PMC crystal ball and flaming witch mods and they are amazing
You dont think there is enough room with the stadiums?
Nevermind, I didnt see that top piece at first.
Quoted from fnosm:Your blades look great and congrats on your new mod. Thanks for posting.
I agree, those blades are great. Wish they still made those ones.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:I installed my munchkin hut mod today. Overall, I think it is a nice addition that improves the look of the game. Here is a before and after photo.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Curious, are the lights on the huts interactive?
Quoted from adol75:I think there's a V2 coming that can be retrofit on V1 that will have interactive lights.
Oh very interesting...
1 month later
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Just got this thing of beauty in the mail and installed. Absolutely incredible! Easy install and makes a huge difference. Totally worth the money imo!
[quoted image]
That does look really nice but damn! Expensive..
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Just got this thing of beauty in the mail and installed. Absolutely incredible! Easy install and makes a huge difference. Totally worth the money imo!
[quoted image]
But for some reason felt the need to pull the trigger on it myself lol. hahaha.
Quoted from fossmin:Anyone looking to sell? Posted a wanted ad in the market place, but thought I would check here as well. Looking for a WOZ EC or RR, modded even better. I am in MD, but will ship for the right machine.
Thanks
Im sure pretty much anything can be for sale with the right price 
Quoted from Medic:I remember sending messages to at least 20 people around me if they wanted to sell theirs. I posted in a local thread and put wanted ads and no one wanted wanted to sell. I was fortunate to get one of the first GNR LE and ended up using that as a bargaining chip as a trade. I must of had at least 15 offers all the sudden from people wanting to trade their woz+cash for my GNR. Yeah having the right machine for a trade or money always talk. I figured I could always get a GNR later. I wasn’t too happy when jjp raised GNR’s price though
I do know people tend to hold on to the WOZ. Its a great game that isnt made anymore.
But i am sure if the price was right, people would sell.. Someone earlier said they saw a posting for a WOZ for $19k. That sounds pretty crazy to me...
Quoted from zaphX:Going from memory the YBR changes are:
- Sparkle playfield
- Tornado/Toto/Castle mods
- Yellow sparkle armor
- Radcals
- Latest PC and cabinet
- Wooden apron
- Removal of the monkey mech
Changing the metal colors would be inadvisable; the game GUI is in yellow to match and it will be oddly mismatched (and ruined in terms of value to other collectors.)
I for one love the yellow and couldn't care less about the monkey mech.
The yellow is really nice...
Quoted from fossmin:So I have a line on a yellow brick road version, which I don't really care for. The yellow just doesn't do it for me. A couple questions. What was the original price of these? Does it have anything special that the other models didn't have? I can change the metal colors easy enough.
Thanks
The original price was like $11,500 if im not mistaken..
Quoted from RTS:I can't imagine making this trade.
I'm surprised there's a market for a reduced feature game that costs more..
I'll admit I've spent a lot upgrading my ECLE with a Kruzman cc pf and 2.0 boards plus limited edition mods, but if YBR's sell for over 10k, I feel ok.
IMO everything about the YBR is nicer than the other models. To me, the Monkey Mod isnt the holy grail. I turned off the mech when I was having an issue and I thought I would miss it. I was surprised when I didnt.
Quoted from beelzeboob:...except the yellow.
ha, thats where we can agree to disagree. 
Quoted from bobukcat:Well hell, just turn off the spinning house with the legs popping out and while you're at it turn off the crystal ball and the witch too, I mean once you see them they're no big deal.
Wrong post...
Quoted from Nokoro:RR is just RR. Standard, ECLE and YBR are all different models. With RR, however, there are the older versions with the pre-2.0 lighting, and the newer or converted versions with 2.0. 2.0 is more reliable and less prone to failure. (Cue the 100 posts by people who have the old boards without issue. )
Dont forget about the "Green Edition" that was made, I believe, specifically for Automated Services... Its essentially the same as ECLE, but doesnt have direct cabinet printing and does not have the wooden apron.
Quoted from beelzeboob:And the green isn't the same, either. The thing looks like Frankenwoz.
Actually, it is. I own one 
Quoted from beelzeboob:I've seen it. And it's not. And I thought yours is yellow. You have two?
Well again, you are wrong. First, before I purchased one, I spoke with a representative at Jersey Jack and I was informed of the differences. Color certainly is not one. Also, I had a new rails painted by a 3rd party person and he got the paint code of the ECLE from JJP, and its a perfect match.
Sorry, not sure what you have seen, but you are in fact wrong.
I dont have a yellow. I was commenting on how nice they are.
Quoted from beelzeboob:Hey! Let's keep downvoting each other some more! I'm right. And I'm also done because this is a "broken record" or "take it to PM" moderation thing, and I've been so well behaved lately. And I have no idea what you mean by AGAIN I'm wrong. I'd love to know what I've said that's wrong in the past. That Gouveia's mods are better than the ones you bought? That's a pretty well-known fact. But I'm done now.
Hey, its not my fault that you are spewing very false information from nowhere. I know for a fact what I am talking about. Before I purchased, I wanted to make sure that this wasn't something put together by a distributor and just selling pieced together machines. That is how I know about these models, from JJP themselves confirming they did in fact make them for this distributor and the differences.
When I say again, I mean you keep saying the same thing over and over with no facts. So again, you would be wrong.
I have no clue what you are talking about with mods lol. I have a mod from Gouveia and mods from others lol.
Quoted from zaphX:I used white lithium grease last time and figured I wouldn't hear from the monkey for a few years.
It was about one year.
It's not the end of the world, I'm just irritated by it and wouldn't mind being in a nice YBR.
I stopped using the Lithium Grease as it gunks up really fast on my machine. I used the Super Lube that people recommend. Seems to be a much better product...
Quoted from zaphX:I have some of that on hand (I use it for spinners) and will try it. Thanks!
Im sure I dont have to mention to you to use sparingly haha. Its super thin, like an oil and of course can get thrown all over if not careful.
Quoted from zaphX:Yeah as a guy who coated his room with lithium grease last time...I get it.
hahahha I thought I saw you mention something like that in here lol
Quoted from zaphX:I thought it was a fun project too. At the end there was a lot of satisfaction seeing it come to life.
With that said, would you want to do it again?
Quoted from zaphX:Absolutely I would. I even ran an ad offering the service for a while but had no takers.
I have a standing plan to do it for a friend in CA once we're past COVID.
Interesting.. Just curious. That seems like quite the job that I dont know if I would want to do myself haha. (Glad I wont have to)..
Quoted from zaphX:Well, I feel foolish. I lubed the monkey rod, but only the threaded rod.
I added lubricant to the smooth rod too and now the monkey is fast, smooth and reliable.
Gotta love the easy fixes.[quoted image]
Also, ive found that my threaded rod gets gunked up. Kind of a PITA to clean it out but its helpful when done to make the monkey fluent. So aside from adding lube, important to clean out the old stuff as well. I feel like that can get overlooked.
Quoted from zaphX:White lithium grease
Boooo, you didnt try the Super Lube??
3 weeks later
Quoted from fnosm:Would you mind digging up your invoice? I was an ECLE original buyer at 7500 (I know earlier folks only paid 6K) with a deposit in by September of 2011. In November of 2013 I ponied up an additional 1500 for the RR. Because the price was 9K. I have heard of others saying their RR was 8500 but I haven't seen it. It doesn't make much difference but I am trying to confirm if the RR was being sold for 8500. If so was shipping extra or was it included?
Great prices back then....
Quoted from dug:Invisiglass did not come on the standard.
Thats considered "bling" haha. Not changing the gameplay..
Quoted from Nokoro:Funny. I was wondering whether to mention that, but I had the same thought. Invisiglass is bling.
Not sure if the shaker should be called bling or a mech. It doesn’t interact with the ball. I guess it’s bling for your senses.
Shaker is bling also. Doesnt change the gameplay...
Quoted from MrMikeman:Actually I'd say it does affect gameplay since this game is so friggin dark... Any reflections will make it a PITA to play if the gameroom is dark.
Yea, nope! lol haha. The gameplay doesnt change regardless of lighting.
1 week later
Quoted from JoshODBrown:i may be doing the update soon, but wanted to check if not having the Wi-fi adapter at the moment will cause any problems simply installing the update?
I am guessing once I have the Wifi USB adapter, i can simply plug it in and power on the machine and it should be detected? Guessing there must be some utility in the game software now for configuring the Wifi connection, scorbit, etc?
I hope not. I have no interest to connect my machine to the internet like this...
Quoted from meSz:Certainly understand Scorbit is not everyone's cup of tea but you may want to still download the latest codes as there's some other small fixes. Even if you download the latest code you have to enable Scorbit to use it so you can just ignore this aspect.
Yes, I do but I prefer to not do that via wifi. Weird preference I suppose. Wifi is just too iffy and I dont want to deal with an interrupted update or something...
Rather play it safe ha.
Quoted from meSz:Certainly understand and that's what I was eluding too as even though you download the latest code you just don't activate the WiFi aspect of it. And, of course, if you don't input the WiFi dongle there's no way for the machine to connect to the WiFi now the Scorbit. You would then just download any future software releases, which I doubt there will be any more, via a USB stick.
I highly doubt they would get rid of USB stick releases...
2 weeks later
Quoted from Jamesays:I am getting#70 rescue the i think stuck open on my test report any advice ?
This happens to me all the time. It always fixes its self after 1 play...
2 weeks later
Quoted from Uberlit:Move the post in maniac. Or burn the game down. Either or.
Cheater! Lol
2 months later
Quoted from John_in_NC:I got my standard WOZ from an operator. It was pretty dirty and the leds were fubar, needed a 2.0 upgrade. The audit showed like 2900 lifetime earnings and like 3200 games as I recall. It had v2.0 software so it was parked very early in its life.
Long story short I did the 2.0 lighting upgrade, loaded 7.03 software and shopped the game. Cleaned up perfect, no visible wear and mechanics needed nothing save a little monkeying around with the flying monkey to get that working right.
The cabinet is near mint but I’m missing the stock topper. Anyone have one left over from an upgrade?
I might be able to help you. I have a "Green Editiion" that originally came with the stock standard topper but I wanted to upgrade to the Emerald Green topper and purchased from JJP..
I saved it but just have to find it and see what condition it is in. I know that JJP was having issues with these where there are strange white lines or missing white lines.
I will try to remind myself and post a picture for you.
Quoted from Rager170:I might be able to help you. I have a "Green Editiion" that originally came with the stock standard topper but I wanted to upgrade to the Emerald Green topper and purchased from JJP..
I saved it but just have to find it and see what condition it is in. I know that JJP was having issues with these where there are strange white lines or missing white lines.
I will try to remind myself and post a picture for you.
Quoted from Rager170:I might be able to help you. I have a "Green Editiion" that originally came with the stock standard topper but I wanted to upgrade to the Emerald Green topper and purchased from JJP..
I saved it but just have to find it and see what condition it is in. I know that JJP was having issues with these where there are strange white lines or missing white lines.
I will try to remind myself and post a picture for you.
One thing to mention, I do not have an extra bracket or light strip for it...
Quoted from John_in_NC:I have that just missing the plastic
Ok. I will take pictures this weekend and send to you..
3 weeks later
Quoted from Rager170:How has nobody made an aftermarket topper for this game??
Quoted from fossmin:I think the question should be, why has no one made a better topper for this game?
Word police! I think you all know what I meant...
Quoted from insight75:Anyone know if its possible to find a replacement Munchkinland mini playfield? You all know exactly why I'm asking. Cliffy is on there now but would be great to have a replacement if I ever want to swap it out down the line.
Im curious why you are asking? haha. I guess im out of the loop..
Quoted from prentice:$160 here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=JJP-05-4001-01
Probably available directly from JJP if you call them.
I'm debating installing the Cliffy for ~$40, but also just wonder if I should just skip that and replace the PF when I want to sell, if needed. Seems like it would almost be the same difficulty either way, but maybe I'm wrong.
I have this. Its super easy to install and you dont notice it...
https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-munchkinland-chrome-edge-protector
Quoted from Meri-cah:Every time I melt her I still get chills! Such an amazing part of this awesome game.
[quoted image]
Nice! I havent been able to do this in a while. Time for a challenge ha.
Quoted from GRB1959:Nice, thanks for the detailed response. I don't play WOZ a ton as I purchased the game for my wife some 8 years ago, so it will be fun to try to melt the witch.
Gord
If you hold the flippers, there is a map with four quadrants that shows up and shows you how to melt the witch.
Its helpful.
1 week later
Quoted from insight75:I want to replace my art blades as the last guy wasn't too careful when lifting the Playfield. Does anyone have the Holographix blades by chance? Curious how they look in person.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/officHOLOGRAFFIXial-jjp-wizard-of-oz-pinblades-holograffix-1
That link didnt work but id be curious what these are...
Quoted from MrMikeman:just go on pingraffix.com you will easily find them
Ahhh thanks.
Im not sure what I think of those... Id definitely be curious if anyone has seen them in person?
They are called Holograffix, id assume as in a hologram. But it only looks like a rainbow slick through them, not an actual hologram.
2 weeks later
HI all,
I was curious if anyone could tell me what the difference between these pinblades are? The two listings show Holograffix but the pictures look different. Price is the same. Then I assume the other one is the standard pinblades...
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/official-jjp-wizard-of-oz-pinblades-holograffix
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/official-jjp-wizard-of-oz-pinblades-holograffix
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/official-jjp-wizard-of-oz-pinblades-holograffix-1
Quoted from Sunsfan23:Noticed some wear on upper playfield. Any suggestions to prevent worsening?[quoted image]
im not seeing anything in this pic. Except for wax buildup?
Quoted from insight75:I noticed this too. I ordered a set and received a Jurassic Park set. So I'm wondering if there is an issue with the item numbers. Still waiting for a response from Joe at Pingraffix.
Interesting thanks. Please reply back once you know...
1 month later
Quoted from d0n:I'm curious why the pinside overview of WOZ only includes the standard and the YBR models? There were 3 other models technically... ECLE, original RUBY RED and 2019 ruby red re-release. Each game varies pretty significantly in current value, board updates and playfield toys. How do we go about getting pinside to correct this?
Also, how many 2019 RR WOZ's were made?
Because they all play exactly the same. YBR just doesnt have the flying monkey mod..
Quoted from bobukcat:If you go with what was actually produced and released by JJP it would be Standard, ECLE, RR75th and YBR. That's not too many and I agree there should be seperate machines listed for them.
Actually, JJP made the Green Edition for Automated Services as well...
Quoted from d0n:but they're all different with different values.
Well, from what I see, Stern machines are lumped together also, You have Pro, then Premium/LE. The premium and LE's arent the same cost either... But often, Pro's vs. Premium/LE will play differently.
I was under the impression it was based on gameplay. Unless im not looking at the same place.. Just looking under the "Machines" tab, then searching.
Quoted from MrMikeman:Meh there's no enforced standard. Medieval Madness Remake has 5 different models/entries (Limited, Standard, Classic, Special, and Royal Editions). Not only is the gameplay identical on all models but the standard and classic editions are actually the same model but with an updated naming convention (Standard is now called classic with CGC).
In addition, just to make things even more convoluted, folks can buy the upgrade kits to make their standard/classic into a special or royal edition (minus clearcoat).
I think that goes with my point... If they play the same so why differentiate? I didnt think the machines "ranking) (Not that they matter at all), would be impacted by just additional toys or whatever..
Quoted from bobukcat:Yes, but they were more of a one-off special edition for a single distributor and were never listed on the JJP website anywhere so I consider it a boutique model rather than the something you can compare to the Stern Pro / Premium / LE.
Fair enough...
Quoted from bobukcat:I guess there are two ways to look at it, ratings / rankings or value / cost. I never even think about Pinside ratings of games but value / cost I do, others will have different priorities, hard to see how you could please both.
Yea true.. But funny, I often hear people saying that the Pinside "values" are not accurate at all...
So I guess neither really matter haha.
Quoted from d0n:Because each model has a different value.
People don't look up games in pinside's database to see how they play. They look them up to see what their values are because they're either a buyer or a seller.
A ruby red is worth more than an emerald city because the boards are updated. The 2019 ruby red re-release should be worth more than the original ruby red because it's newer. The YBR is even newer but is missing some features so it's generally worth less. The standard edition with the stainless trim and legs is least valuable.
They're ALL very different even though they play similarly. How they play doesn't matter.
Did you see my post one above this? Most people seem to say the pricing guide on Pinside isnt accurate anyways. To me, id rather spend the money on a game that people rank as better playing, vs. something that might be more "valuable".
1 week later
Quoted from marioparty34:Must be some high end stuff. I can't find it at a normal store or on Amazon. I searched for "Sta-lube clear silicone grease".
I use Super Lube. The Lithium Grease always gunked up. Super Lube has been excellent!
Quoted from TigerLaw:What is the general consensus on a sub woofer for WOZ? If favorable, which subwoofer is recommended? Is that cable plug in the back RCA? Thanks.
This is a pinside favorite it seems. I wouldnt ever use this in my Home Theater, but for pinball, its fine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KVQBA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Not sure about RCA, have only hooked them up via speaker wire to the cabinet speaker.
Quoted from TigerLaw:Thank you! Yea, there is a speaker intake Jack in the back of the machine. It looks like it is for RCA but I’m not certain. That Polk does have the option for RCA at Amazon and that price point is pretty nice.
I have two of them, they get the job done for sure...
Quoted from naf_llabnip:Thank you! Oh yes great suggestion, already have the protector ordered; that was my first order the same night I bought the machine. Somehow this machine managed to survive with zero issues in that area without the protector (a minor miracle, although it clearly has not been played much). Aside from testing and adjusting some things, I'm waiting on that protector to arrive before I really start seriously playing it. At this point I'm just blown away with the beauty of the machine and can look at it and enjoy the light show (which on another topic, just contacted JJP support to get the 2.0 light board ordering process going hopefully; original boards working perfectly though).
If you are going to cover up any damage anyways, play it? haha
Quoted from naf_llabnip:LOL you got a point ... I caved in and played a couple of games tonight. What a spectacular game, wow!
The game is a work of art! Its great. Sometimes I take a break from it for a while and then say, ehhh im not into it really right now.. Then i give it a go and the addiction is immediately back!
Quoted from Baron_VonLoppnow:What do you use to protect the edge of the Munchkin playfield? The edge protector from the Cliffy WOZ protector set? Or is there something else? Mine already has a small amount of damage and I want to order something to protect from further damage ASAP.
I use this. Much easier to install.
https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-munchkinland-chrome-edge-protector
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