Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinballinreno.
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Quoted from Nepi23:Sorry all - I double-checked F702 fuse and its blown. I removed it the first time from its holder, but I think I may have misread the diagram and removed the fuse from the other end of the line or something like that...
The fuses have led lights near them to do a quick look at on the pc board, that helps maybe.
Quoted from monte_:Is there a thread on how to fix that?
The solenoid 51 in the solenoid menu work properly and click?
Quoted from monte_:I tried the coil 51 test and didnt hear much when i pressed start button to make it fire. Is that the right test?
Make sure you pull out the white door switch post if testing with the door open.
That is the latch coil. It should click when tested, nothing else.
If it doesnt click then check the wires going to it, or check for binding of the door stop.
You will probably have to remove the castle playfield assembly to do a better inspection.
Quoted from monte_:I have had my wizard of oz about 6 weeks and now the castle doors are having a little problem. When I hit the castle doors, sometimes instead of opening all the way, they just indent a little bit instead of opening all the way. Once they are indented, if you hit the doors nothing happens. Then I have to let the doors reset to the normal position. The next time I hit the castle doors they usually open. This is happening intermittently and I don't know if it is a sign of something that will get worse.. I am sure this has been addressed and would appreciate the help.
Sounds like a weak or worn motor. Or the screws on the shaft are loose.
Also if you have a loose connector there will be low power to the motor.
The door should snap open and be closed via the spring.
If the door works slowly it will catch behind the latch triggered by solenoid 51.
The software will reset it after awhile.
If it were me, I would remove the castle playfield using the instructions in the manual, replace the motor and inspect the whole assembly for proper operation.
Blue loctite on any and all screws while you have it out.
Quoted from pinballjah:I noticed the auto plunger stopped working tonight. On multi balls, balls just pile up in plunger lane. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.
Physically binding up,
Wire fell off, cable disconnected, fuse etc...
Quoted from LTG:Shooter lane switch not working.
LTG : )
I didnt think of that one!
Your the best Lloyd! 
Quoted from pinballjah:Looks like the switch needs to be fixed. Can someone show me how to reassemble this loose part. How do I attach the black part? Thank you.
The switch mounts on the tab, I circled it in the picture.
Look in the cabinet bottom for the screws and nuts that hold it on.
The black part goes between the switch body and the metal tab. Its an insulator
f7bf97df2bb5a9e84b98f7a75120664cb5155971 (resized).jpegQuoted from pinballjah:Thanks for your help everyone. I was able to find one screw and put it back together so it is working again. I did have a new problem occur, I kept getting a "skill shot" bonus every time a new ball would start. The skill shot bonus would increase in value with each ball. I tried loosening the screw a little and the problem seemed to go away. Is there a specific wire that controls the skill shot bonus? Seems odd this would be connected to the plunger. Thanks.
If you only found one screw that's not enough to hold it securely as it will spin in time. I would search for it thoroughly in the cabinet with a flashlight Maybe. Or take out the existing screw and match it up at the hardware store and get a replacement. And then install the two screws. They have to be snug but not super tight as it will crush the switch body.
I have found that running a telescopic wand with a magnet on the end over and around the inside of the cabinet often finds lost screws that I could not see.
Quoted from Beez:Right Castle door is stuck and won’t open - opens every once in a while during test? Any thoughts?
How old is your game?
And pretty much what Lloyd said.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:I have a feeling the right door is the one that gets bashed the most.
You are correct sir!
And since there is no off switch or low power detent for the motor, when activated, it just jams and stalls when open by design.
This leads to the right motor burning out 3 or 4 times faster than the left, as well as taking the bulk of the abuse from ball hits.
Fortunately they are inexpensive from JJP and fairly easy to replace.
Get a couple spares from the JJP store online.
Quoted from boomgopinball:Made a little progress. Pulled woz6 and that seemed to get things moving. Some lights miss addressed. Detailed it in my help thread. Any suggestions on testing woz6 to see if it needs simple repair or needs replaced?
Did you bypass it with the cables and turn it off in the settings?
Quoted from boomgopinball:Yes. Took the green data cable from 6 and out it in 29. Also took out 5. That green data is now on 28. Both off in settings.
If you have the ins and outs correct and in the right sequence everything should act normal as far as the other lights, when the missing boards are disabled.
Otherwise you get weird light effects.
Quoted from Soulrider911:OK, found the culprit, the data connector going from 56 to 26, on the green end, the ground wire had backed itself out. shoved it back in and hot glued it until i can order a replacement. Speaking of replacement where do i order one? I Could not find it on the part page.
Also, my WOZ head led seems to be out... this common, and should i order another from JJP? or can i use a 12 one I have from comet? Thanks
The throne room has a small LED strip under it make sure it's plugged in. If the little strip is bad you can order one from jjp directly.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Right that’s why I asked which casket walls as I know he’s not making that mod right now
Get the complete set from Matt at back alley creations.
They are the best.
I bought the modfather walls but the material wasnt durable enough to last properly. It was a kind of marshmallow material that looked really nice but ultimately the holes wore out and they kept falling off.
Get the red smoke mod later when it becomes available again.
For now sign up for the monkey mod.
Quoted from Soulrider911:So I also want to put an led in the state fair balloon... and I’m use to Williams, the wiring harnesses in this game is nuts, where / how do I tap into a gi circuit? Or power? Thank you
Get the state fair balloon mod from mezelmods.com
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Pinstadium: I would recommend it if you like to play in a darker room or lights off.
Where I have woz I have dim-able lights above (and I dont like to play with the room totally dark) so not needed for me.
I added some purple spots to mine attched to the regular GI and it seems enough for a lot less than the pinstadium lights.
Plus it works with the code.
Quoted from adol75:Hi everyone,
This is my first post on Pinside, I received my WOZ Ruby red 2 weeks ago, put in 500 plays since them, and loving that fantastic pinball. I had a STTNG for years, had to sell it a while ago and I must say that WOZ is a major step forward in countless ways.
I bought it from The Pinball Company, Nic and Brooke have been of great help and service along the way.
In short, but nothing new there, I've never seen a game with that many things to do, and I keep discovering new modes along the way. I really like the "open world" approach where there are tons of paths to get to the wizard mode. The game is fast, all the shots are rewarding and there seems to be enough to do to keep me busy for a while. Kudos to JJP for that one, I wanted to buy a NIB pinball but didn't want to get a Stern, I'm just not a big fan of the feel and don't believe much in having a Stern for life wether for maintenance or gameplay, so JJP is a blessing.
I had a few issues with it, 2 led boards died and my crystall ball was freezing. I sorted out the Crystal ball, the SD card wasn't well inserted so it was losing contact.
As to the led boards, I got help from JJP support to understand the string concept on the first one, then got the concept and sorted out the second one myself. The cool thing with that string compared to my old STTNG is that it takes out so many lights at once that it forced me to work on it right away, where on the TTNG I was waiting to have a bunch of lights out before resolving myself to work on it. A gift in disguise I guess.
What else to say, JJP support team is super reactive and efficient, maintenance has been a breeze so far and playing that pinball is immensely satisfying. I've always been a big fan of the Wizard of Oz movie and this pinball truly brings the movie to the playfield, they did a very good job at implementing the them with a great attention to details.
I've been "working from home" for 3 days now, and quite frankly I haven't worked much !
Welcome to pinside!
Welcome to the Club!
WOZ is just an amazing game, its never leaving our home!
Quoted from apinballwiz:Can you post a pic as to where you placed these spots?
I have two spots on the top of each sling and one set of two just below the trees.
They are not too hard to install on top of a couple of hex posts.
You can move them around and put them wherever you see fit.
You can get either the silver spotlights or the black ones I think the black ones look better.
Quoted from Reznnate:I've heard people say the munchin area (wood edge) can be damaged but I haven't seen this after a few years. Ball doesn't seem to hit it.
I like the look of the wood edge.
Munchkin edge protection is a must
Please post close up pictures of the edge near the ramp over the lollipop targets after 2000 plays.
With no protector.
Mine was visibly dented and chipped at 500 plays.
Quoted from dendoc:Can I get some help with a transformer problem? Not sure if its common but mine developed an extremely loud buzz after powering on for 5 mins. It gets so loud it can be heard over the music. I tried the old bash it was a hammer that has been suggested but didn't help. I was told it was due to plate vibration in the transformer, and used the existing holes to pass through some bolts to firm it all up, but now it gets so hot I have to turn it off after playing for an hour. Any other suggestions besides shelling out $500 for a new transformer?
If it's getting hot I mean super hot it could have a short in the coil and will probably have to be replaced.
It would be good to know the resistance of a good transformer.
Then do a couple tests.
Quoted from adol75:I need a little help here, or at least to know if it's common. I'm getting a lot of airballs, some of them hit the glass in a loud noise, no damage but it forces me in game to avoid hitting fast balls right away and instead to hold them on the flipper just in fear they would go flying.
Pretty much every ball that comes down straight from the top of the playfield goes in the air if hit directly. My pinball is slightly tilted down because I wanted to get a bit more speed and because I had a lot of balls that were diverted when touching the characters rollovers.
Your pitch is too high and your flippers are set too strong.
Of course you are getting air balls
Set the pitch to 6.5.
Lower the flipper strength so that a clean shot from a cradled position to the ramp goes up smoothly but decelerates slightly at the top.
Quoted from Nepi23:I noticed today that in my WOZ there is some wear on the PF before the target that leads to the hole that launches the ball to the castle. Have you had similar problems and did you manage to find good ways to cover the wear? I guess otherwise I just put some mylar there. Thanks for any tips!
Cover with mylar as soon as possible.
You might have the flipper power set a bit high for this to have happened.
See if cliffy has a protector for this area to help cover it up.
Maybe send him a picture of the wear.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Have you guys had good support from JJP with issues? I keep hearing they are the best in the industry, but I'm yet to see that. I called about 2 weeks ago, about 3 times, and always went to VM. I left a message and have heard nothing? Maybe there is a secret I am missing?
Keep calling, they can be busy.
Mornings have been good for me, call sales and get transferred a couple times also.
Create a suppport ticket it you want.
With a little persistence I always get through, would never wait 2 weeks, I would just hammer them on the phone.
Quoted from Crile1:I'm sure its deep in this thread somewhere, but does anyone have a fix for ball getting stuck in the back left corner or the left orbit?
I haven't seen that be a problem.
Under the castle playfield?
There's not much there to stop a ball. Has something got in there like a loose screw or debris?
What is your playfield pitch?
You might have to take it off to examine the area.
Quoted from adol75:Just curious about who managed to get the SOTR wizard mode, around how many plays it took you to get there, and what difficulty level / number of balls / outlane settings you play in ?
I just feel like I'm a galaxy away from getting there, and although I do manage to get a couple of the requirements at each game, I still wonder how to get them all
I get all but one emerald all the time.
It's the rescue multiball one that is near impossible.
Quoted from adol75:I found a way to keep the rescue multiball going without having multi balls on the playfield, but I don't know if it goes in the cheating category or not. I would think not, since it's totally in game. Basically if you shoot two balls in a row to the castle VUK, the first one will go up while the second stays stuck on the drop target. As long as you don't hit the target the ball stays there while still in multiball.
Stuck ball exploits are a cheat per tournament rules.
So yes it's a cheat. Sorry.
However since one can cheat at home, just manually get the gem with the glass off.
Drain the ball, put the glass back on and continue the game.
Take a video of your success post on youtube.
Quoted from bobukcat:Is it really considered a stuck ball if it's sitting behind a drop target like that? If so what are your responsibilities as the player, do you have to try to hit the target to release it, forfeit a ball, or something other? This is not an unheard of situation to be in on WOZ and it can definitely happen without you even trying to do so, I'm sure there are other games that would end up the same (SM or AFM behind the 3 bank target automatically come to mind but there have to be more) so this has to be a somewhat common happenstance.
If its really stuck, even in a multiball you have to stop playing if you cant unstick it rapidly during play.
Call for a monitor as soon as you see the stuck ball, hold up the flipper of your choice.
They open the coin door (stops the game), pull off the glass or slide it down enough to retrieve the stuck ball and set it on your flipper.
Playing too long in this situation can forfeit your ball as a penalty.
Then you continue your game and hopefully regain your momentum. (It sucks when this happens in competition)
Quoted from boomgopinball:The hourglass insert doesn't really do anything much right now.
It's only been 5 years, what's the hold up? 
Quoted from adol75:To make it easier to start haunted mode when it flashes, pressing the 2 flipper buttons will deactivate the bumpers so the ball can get to the VUK. Discovering this finally allowed me to get the haunted multiball.
This is a setting that can either be enabled or disabled in the service menus
Quoted from Utesichiban:I know there are some cool things about it but have to admit the board thing makes me a bit nervous.
What do ECLE's typically go for? I'm guessing those with the more reliable 7.5v boards go for a bit more, right?
I have an ECLEWOZ with 7.5v boards in it and have had very few problems over the thousands of plays on it.
Quoted from bobukcat:So the drop target does not raise when you go into coil test? Are all the other coils working properly?
Yes, if the door switch is pulled out.
You can go up or down in the tests.
Quoted from bobukcat:I know you can test it, I was asking monte if I understood his situation correctly and that his up coil is not firing.
It looks like his switch is misadjusted or came loose and isn't being actuated correctly.
Quoted from monte_:I checked the matrix switch #73 and it doesn't work if I have the ball manually hit the winkie target, but if I manually reach underneath the play field and pull on the small horizontal piece of metal back all the way the matrix switch does activate and light up green on the testing as shown in picture 1. Basically when the winkie target drops, the horizontal metal piece does not fall enough backward to push on the small green button to light up the switch. The underside of my target assembly looks different than the one shown by Lloyd. I do not have a cylindrical metal piece that pushes on the thin metal piece to activate the switch like shown by Lloyd I do have a newer version wizard of oz ruby red made more recently. There is nothing that pushes on the lever to activate the switch at this time when the winkie target drops back. Maybe they have a new assembly piece. I know I am a newbie, but I think Nokoro was on to something when he said that thicker vertical metal piece should be on the other side of the thin horizontal lever that activates the switch. Even if the switch is activated, does that mean the winkie target will pop up when playing? Does anybody have a newer woz rr and can show me the underside of their winkie target assembly?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The mech looks like it's in good order, the drop target tab is intact and above the switch actuator arm.
So my question is does the switch register in the switch test if manually actuated?
Does the switch make a tiny click when manually actuated?
This would be good to know
You can manually actuate the switch with your finger while in switch test mode with the playfield up.
Quoted from adol75:There's one nut under the ramp that's really hard to reach, I couldn't get it with the nut driver, so I used a flat flexible wrench to reach it (this tool is magic actually !) and a bent plier to pull the rubber in place (I have big fingers though, not the best for pinball maintenance !)[quoted image]
What size is the wrench?
Quoted from adol75:9mm. I didn't check the other nuts, but I do hope all of them are the same size !
Ok, so 11/32"
That sounds about right, thanks!
Quoted from Soulrider911:Hey guys had an odd thing happen today. My buddy was playing my WOZ and all of the sudden all playfield lights went out...? Spotlights and throne room lights where the only ones on. I lifted the playfield to look st connections, and everything looked fine. Turned the game off and back on again... and all lights worked ? Very odd
Lights out crystal ball mode?
What version code?
Quoted from PtownPin:My Green lighting for the wizard is really dim...is there an easy way to turn that up? looks like there is a small LED strip lighting it?
Might be wearing out.
It's just 12v strip of 3 LEDs.
Get one from JJP or a small quantity of green strip lights online and solder it in.
Quoted from PtownPin:just wondering if anyone has seen this problem. About 1 out of every 10 games the ball doesn't make it onto the upper castle play field. The VUK fires fine and the ball enters the wireworm, but actually comes through the wire form and bounces back onto the main play field. Its odd to me that the ball would actually fit through the wire form but it does (right at the 90 degree bend).
Adjust the vuk power down a couple notches.
Put a nylon wire tie sll the way around where the ball goes thru the wireform to act like a wire.
It may be welded a bit off.
Order a new wireform if this is the case. Call Frank at JJP and tell them its defective.
Quoted from PtownPin:I opened a ticket with JJP....we'll see what they say. I adjusted the VUK power, but the issue still exists. I think the only way to solve is to replace with a new wire form....I could always put something there to prevent it from happening, but it won't look good I'm sure JJP will get back to me soon as they are good at responding....
A black wire tie and you won't notice it at all. At least while waiting for replacement parts.
Quoted from monte_:I have a new problem on my woz rr. The winkie guard target is not working properly during the battle against the wicked witch. After i complete the four red shots, i believe the winkie guard target is supposed to retract so i can hit the vuk castle shot, but the the target is retracting halfway and getting stuck and not moving. The winkie guard is working fine and not getting stuck when i am trying to go into castle to complete rescue multiball. Lloyd help me fix the winkie guard a couple of weeks ago as it wasnt working at all. Thanks for the help.
I have a video of it I just don’t know how to attach it here.
Does the target raise and lower in test?
Is it assembled correctly i.e. not missing an e-clip and washers on one of the attachment posts?
Retraction spring getting weak?
You can give the spring more tension by just re-hooking the spring a 1/4" lower than the end loop within the spring itself.
Is it binding on something (playfield, wire underneath etc.)?
You can gently pull the whole mech forwards (bend it) toward the front of the game a little bit at a time until the target part stops rubbing on the playfield.
Adjust the nut on the bottom if the target protrudes above the playfield surface after bending it
Take a look and report what you find.
Quoted from monte_:I did tighten the spring and noticed it was a little better but still noticed it didn't go down all the way. When looking at the target from above when not fully retracted it is actually rubbing on the wood toward the back part of the machine and when I look underneath the play field the black part connected to the target almost looks like it is bending a little underneath the play field. I don't really understand how to adjust the target unless somebody shows me specifically. On a worse side note I had the machine on during witch mode playing around with the glass off and noticed smoke coming from the machine. I immediately turned it off and noticed the part just to the left of the winkie guard target assembly was extremely hot and I assume the smoke was coming from this (see pic). Now I have two problems, winkie guard target and something was burning. I need some serious help.[quoted image][quoted image]
The coil was getting hot from working too hard and being energized too long.
The smoke was from the coil wrapper heating up.
Over all coils are pretty robust, you are probably ok since you noticed it and turned it off.
Carefully check around the area for any wires that may have melted together, if none found your still probably ok.
The drop target (black plastic piece of the assembly) is binding on the playfield you say?
This would cause the coil to work too hard and heat up.
With the playfield on its service rails and the rubber feet on the lockbar receiver.
Reach underneath the playfield and grab the whole drop target mechanism in your hand and either push it back or pull on it forwards until the black plastic piece no longer rubs on the playfield.
In your case since you report that its rubbing on the rear of the target, push the entire mechanism back maybe an inch or until the target is free. Its ok if the mech runs at an angle when done its designed for this, its ok to bend this mech.
Raise the playfield and carefully lean it back against the backbox head. Dont move the game around with the playfield in this position, it could fall.
With the power off test that the target raises and lowers with very little resistance and rubs on nothing.
Make sure the spring on the side of the black plastic piece is hooked on and retracts the target efficiently.
You can press on the brass colored piece with the little finger on it to manually knock the target off its metal ledge, the target should snap back into place if its working properly.
This is the factory method to resolve the rubbing issue.
Try to determine if its just the black plastic piece that is the culprit and not the plunger part inside the coil.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The coil was getting hot from working too hard and being energized too long.
The smoke was from the coil wrapper heating up.
Over all coils are pretty robust, you are probably ok since you noticed it and turned it off.
Carefully check around the area for any wires that may have melted together, if none found your still probably ok.
The drop target (black plastic piece of the assembly) is binding on the playfield you say?
This would cause the coil to work too hard and heat up.
With the playfield on its service rails and the rubber feet on the lockbar receiver.
Reach underneath the playfield and grab the whole drop target mechanism in your hand and either push it back or pull on it forwards until the black plastic piece no longer rubs on the playfield.
In your case since you report that its rubbing on the rear of the target, push the entire mechanism back maybe an inch or until the target is free. Its ok if the mech runs at an angle when done its designed for this, its ok to bend this mech.
Raise the playfield and carefully lean it back against the backbox head. Dont move the game around with the playfield in this position, it could fall.
With the power off test that the target raises and lowers with very little resistance and rubs on nothing.
Make sure the spring on the side of the black plastic piece is hooked on and retracts the target efficiently.
You can press on the brass colored piece with the little finger on it to manually knock the target off its metal ledge, the target should snap back into place if its working properly.
This is the factory method to resolve the rubbing issue.
Try to determine if its just the black plastic piece that is the culprit and not the plunger part inside the coil.
There are only 2 adjustments to the drop target assembly:
Bending the entire mech forward or backwards to keep the target from rubbing on the playfield.
and
Adjusting the stop screw at the very bottom of the metal coil housing to raise or lower the target when its retracted.
Properly adjusted the target would be flush with the surface.
Quoted from monte_:I believe I know what the problem is but I don't know how to fix it. When I push down on the brass metal bracket it is getting stuck down in that position which does not allow the target to retract (see video).In the video, it pops back up, but most of the time it stays stuck down. I feel like the little brass arm that pushes down on the black bracket underneath is getting stuck on it somehow. Do i bend that little brass arm going down to fix it? I don't know. I assume the coil causes the bracket to push down in witch mode to cause the target to retract. I assume I am not having problem during regular play and only during witch mode is that the coil/bracket has nothing to do with retraction of the target when the ball hits it during regular gameplay. Lloyd, you have any thoughts on how to do this? I assume the coil overheats because it is staying stuck down.
[quoted image]
Is the decal bunching up and hanging on the metal edge?
If so scrape off the lower 1/4" of the decal to free it up.
It's easier to work on the mech if you take out the 4 screws with a magnetic screwdriver or a magnetic 1/4" nutdriver and ease it out.
It will still be attached by small wires but you can unplug the bigger ones to let you hang it in the harness to look at it.
Quoted from knobstone:Found it interesting that Jack announced at Vancouver the sales numbers for his games:
1. Wizard of Oz - 4,000
2. Hobbit - 2,000
3. Dialed In - 1,600
Those are great numbers.
Similar to William's numbers per title.
Way to go JJP!
$60 million in sales? Wow.
Quoted from PtownPin:Not sure what distributors pay for the game nor how many games were direct sales, but at an avg sales price of say $7500 thats $57M in revenue, which isn't bad, but probably not enough to be profitable...I hope their numbers continue to increase to the point where they become profitable...
All they have to do at this point is continue making titles that sell in similar numbers.
That's really the art of it all.
They have already changed many things in the industry through innovation and service.
I suspect the winkie target coil first.
It did get smoked while troubleshooting the mech.
Check its resistance and report back.
Quoted from monte_:Pinballinreno knows that the coil overheated because my winkie guard target wasn't retracting properly about 1 week ago. The arm in the target assembly that pushes down on the retract mechanism was getting caught on it and the target would only retract 50%. Because it wasn't retracting properly, the coil overheated (smoking) and I believe the fuse went after that. I pushed forward on the whole mechanism after talking to frank which seemed to help so now it hasn't been sticking. I can play a little while and then the fuse blows. When the fuse is in and not blown, all tests come back normal and coils work for this fuse. Can coil cause a fuse to blow even though it still works?
Do any coils run hot, or very hot to the touch after a couple games?
(Just thinking aloud...)
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:Hi guys, my new RRWOZ is up and playing 100% One little tweak I had to make was to my "Left" haunted tree. It seemed to be clashing with the PF guide under the playfield. The tree was hitting something making a metallic sound and not going down. I shimmed up the left mounting screw of the tree pop bumper with 4 flat washers, this tipped the guts of the tree to the inside of the cabinet and it now clears the rail. ***I am guessing it was the guide rail, couldn't really see.
This happen to anyone else, any different solutions?
This has been noted a couple times. Its a very packed close area around the pops.
The guide rail can be loosened and moved/bent out of the way.
In extreme cases remove the tree, its easy.
The trees are hollow rubber, just push down on a hollow nut driver to grab the nuts.
Remove the pop bumper ring (its really easy) and grind off enough of it so that it doesnt rub in the area you need.
It doesnt have to be round there. Flattening if off is ok as the ball cant hit it there anyway.
You can use a dremel, file, grinding wheel or coarse sandpper on a sanding block for this. Its a thin soft steel ring designed for easy replacement and adjustment.
This happens mostly on the ball guide of the crystal ball loop and sometimes on the far left guide rail in the haunted forest.
Putting in the washers is great but I worry that the crooked mech will damage the playfield in time.
Quoted from monte_:Can anyone tell me which drop target extension spring i need for the 1 bank drop target? Mine is broken and i am not sure which one on pinball life/marco parts is the right one. #11 in picture[quoted image]
If just the end loop broke off, grab another loop off the spring, bend it out and reattach it to the mech.
It's not too critical as far as tension.
Quoted from monte_:I did. I just want a spare one.
I think I figured out why fuse f 710 was blowing randomly at times. There was a black mesh wrapping with green and white wires next to the metal wires attaching to retract coil area. Somehow I believe those wires were touching the metal wires that power the retract coil causing the problem. I zip tied them to move them out of the way. Since then the fuse has not blown. See picture below where the black mesh. I am not sure what the wires in black mesh do?
[quoted image]
Nice find!
Grounding out the coil with a direct short would definitely blow the fuse.
Keep track of it. Could be a broken wire inside the harness.
It's always something simple like that.
Finally after getting beat up by countless multiballs, the diode on my glinda target broke off.
Poor glinda should look like a hockey goalie after fending off so many balls lol !
Got a check switch 74 in the self test. I hadn't seen that before.
Checked the glinda target and it worked in test.
Removed it from the playfield and the diode fell apart in my hand.
5 mins later after installing a new diode it's back up perfectly.
It's amazing how robust these standup targets are. Designed to take a beating, and they do !
Quoted from teddyb73:Hey guys,
Does anyone know when the upper right flipper orbit magnet is supposed to work?
Thanks,
Ted
It stops the ball during witch hurry ups to make it easier to hit the witch.
There is a setting in the menu to turn this on or off.
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:Found my broken piece.....any way to repair this? I assume Im going to need to order the black piece from JJP vs a quick fix.
We have a party for my sons basketball team next Saturday so I’ve got a little time to get it delivered.
Was just curious if it worth attempting to repair. [quoted image]
Maybe jb weld, but nothing really sticks to nylon.
Maybe it'll get you a couple hours play though, reinforced with thin tape.
Quoted from monte_:I finally figured out why my fuse F710 keeps blowing which controls the drop target retract, castle doors vuk, castle double doors latch, and house wall drop. I just don't know how to fix it. I realized recently that somehow by hitting the winkie guard target it activates the mechanism that controls the witch (i.e. If the witch hurry up is going on and I hit the winkie guard target it places a hit on the witch-- I have been noticing that when I have one more hit on the witch to drop her down and I hit the winkie guard target she drops down). This shouldn't be the case. So I noticed the fuse is blowing when the witch light is red (i.e. ready to start Battle of wicked witch) and I hit the winkie guard target. If I hit the winkie guard target, it activates Battle the wicked witch mode (which it shouldn't) causing the fuse F710 to blow. It must be the target retracting at the same time the retraction coil is firing. In any event, the problem is somehow the winkie guard target is activating the wicked witch mechanism which leads to the problem? I don't know how that would be, but maybe LTG or pinballinreno may have suggestion. Thanks for the help.
Could be a short.
Contact JJP for better answers.
They have a very large data base of problems.
Quoted from coz6:So my WOZ is down --- no signal used the reset button to get it back in action once, but it died mid game play, reset button did not bring it back to life. Tried a full install on a memorex 32 GB new flash drive and the machine is still not booting, getting one error about a file overriding when doing the extraction (will make a note of it next time) so basically, when hitting the reset button all led's flash but the fan stops after only making a small rotation on the CPU board. Any suggestions?
Sounds like a bad SSD drive in the game.
Use a proven usb flash drive to mount the image. Kingston 8gb have never let me down.
Do a complete and total power fail before you start reinstalling.
Quoted from coz6:Please explain more - not sure how to do any of that outside purchase a Kingston
I have had a few incompatible USB stick drives that did not work.
The Kingston 8gb usb stick drives have never failed me.
As far as the SSD drive inside the game. Most seem ok, I prefer Samsung SSD drives.
I have never had to change one out.
Quoted from coz6:Are you suggesting that I do the image on the Kingston per JJ instruction but just with a known working flash drive brand? What is "a Do a complete and total power fail before you start reinstalling" thanks for the suggestion
Dud you replace the SSD drive inside the game?
It might be bad or going bad.
Quoted from coz6:Not yet but I can - what I find concerning is the CPU does not seem to be booting up enough to even run the flash drive for a new install the light on the flash drive is only half powered before it stops I tried a keyboard to see if I could hit f2 and same issue the keyboard has no power
Try unplugging the cable to the USB flash drive from the back of the computer, then plug the usb flash drive directly into the computer where the cable was.
Does the usb flash drive boot?
Its possible that the cable is bad.
Quoted from fnosm:The witch bash mech seems to be a weak point on this game. Has anyone come up with a good replacement? IMHO a better solution will instantly become a must have mod.
I have the original setup and have never had an issue over the 9000 games we put on it.
Castle doors however are another story.
Quoted from monte_:Well I got that fixed and now the witch is not activated by hitting winkie guard target or winkie guard vuk. I am still blowing fuse F710 repeatedly (20V Coils/Motors; Drop Target Retract, Castle Doors VUK, Castle Double Doors Latch, House Wall Drop. Frank (JJP) and I have come to the conclusion that the coil that controls the drop target retract is bad. Frank sent me the coil assembly to replace shown below. I have never done soldering/desoldering so I would appreciate if someone could tell me what I need to buy to do this job. In addition, let me know if there are any tricks to replacing this piece. Thanks.
[quoted image]
Its way easier than you think.
Practice by soldering paper clips together.
Use a bit of flux on everything, it cleans off with rubbing alcohol when you are done.
Heat the part not the solder.
Add solder when the area is hot enough to melt solder.
Dont overheat so it all turns black and tape other wires out of the way with masking tape if you work in a confined area.
See below, it's easy.
Quoted from adol75:I've never noticed it before, as in I can't tell if it always was like that or appeared recently, but at the intersection of the 2 ramps, the ball on the lower ramp slightly rubs on the bottom of the top ramp, it slows down the ball a bit.
Can you tell me if you have the same on yours, if not I guess I'm in for adding a washer to lift the top one up. [quoted image]
I just pulled up on the upper one slightly so that it clears the ball by 1/16" or so. Easy adjustment.
You could also push down on the lower one. Or maybe a a little bit of both.
Quoted from capguntrooper:I have posted this before, but a few members have asked me and for those that have played my machine always ask how my fan is so quiet. Its easy, just move it inside case, just make sure to face it the right direction and make sure the wires do not touch blades. It will fit snuggly, but cut down on the noise A LOT. Hope that helps
[quoted image]
I wondered why they did this. The fan fits perfectly well inside the box just like any other PC power supply cooling fan.
Quoted from Yoxxy:I have an early edition standard game, old light boards. Between games all the leds on the right side of the game went out, scarecrow, Toto, rainbow, wizard, lion. Everything left of the yellow brick road still works fine. I would assume this isn’t the boards individually but the main lighting board, any ideas?
Might be a loose cable. Refresh all the cable connections and see if it fixes it.
Or like LTG says its a bad led board. Probably one of the small ones possibly more.
I had 2 out at the same time once.
Quoted from pduffy:Anyone fix castle doors that arent working? Any help? The right door seems to get stuck.
Read the manual and follow it exactly to remove the castle playfied.
It looks difficult but it's not at all.
Examine the motor, screws and all of the associated parts.
The motor is either slipping due to loose screws (add blue locctite if so) or its worn out.
Not too hard to replace if you take your time.
Quoted from avspin:I had something similar happen to me today. Hit the switch and nothing. Lifted playfield and noticed a white wire just sitting near the back. Turns out when I lifted the playfield last something pulled the wire from the power plug. Plugged back in and I was good.
This may not be your problem but I never had this happen and wanted to put it out there.
Yes there is a small connector way at the end of the playfield, right near the rear edge that if disconnected, the game wont start.
Quoted from coz6:Good info my game is still dead and wondering what to do. Was going to call support again as othet methods are not working at all can't get the keyboard to even get power. That connector?
[quoted image]
It's a good start to see if anything is unplugged but those look ok.
Check around for a loose cable.
Unfortunately it could be anywhere.
If you haven't pressed the reset or grounded the reset pins on the mainboard I would start there.
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:My Winkie Guard drop target fires in test mode but stays down the entire game all of a sudden. Spring is still in connected.
Thoughts.......?
Is the switch still attached to the mech?
Is it loose and need tightening?
is the switch arm on the mech clicking and does it click when the target is down?
You might just have to turn the switch until it clicks properly when its supposed to and tighten it if its loose.
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:Target does not stay up if I manually raise it.
Is the black plastic drop target broken?
The drop target should catch on its black plastic edge, on the metal scraper on the mech.
Check to see that the decal isnt bunched up, or that something is keeping the drop target from catching on the metal scraper.
If the decal is bunched up, remove the mech by removing the 4, 1/4" hex screws with a magnetic 1/4" nut driver. One screw will probably need to be removed with a magnetic screwdriver. Carefully lift iit out of the game and let it hang on the wiring harnesses near by. Scrape off the bunched up decal with a pocket knife or razor cutter, dont cut the black plastic.
Dont lose the screws in the game. Take your time. Put a towel down in the lower cabinet to catch dropped parts.
You should be able to catch the black plastic drop target on the edge, and then knock it loose with the brass finger on mech by pushing on it. The lower solenoid is what pushes it up, The spring on the side is what pulls it down. Make sure the spring is intact and hooked on the side of the black plastic drop target.
Also please test the switch in switch tests to make sure it is working properly, or at least making contact when you manually actuate it. Switch test will verify that the game can use the switch.
Quoted from jasonbar:Finman2000 & LTG, thanks for your replies!
I flipped up the PF, & confirmed that board 10 lights but board 12 does not. I see the daisy chain order on the PC cover. Super handy reference!
Ergo, light board 12 is suspect.
I gave the 10->12 cable some good wiggling w/ no change.
So, I took the cable coming down from 31 (castle PF) & plugged it into 10 (order of boards in this area is 11, 9, 10, *12*, 31).
This bypasses both the #12 board & the 10->12 cable.
Back in business!!!
To confirm if it was the board or the cable that was the culprit, I put back the 10->12 cable in the 9->10 position.
Still works.
Guess it's the board!
Guess I need to buy a 15-0006-00. Maybe I'll get a spare. One went bad on the original owner years ago. Compared to some light board stories I've heard, I don't feel too bad about 1 failure of the tiniest PCBs every 2-3 years.
Questions:
1. Is it safe to make these swaps when the game is on? Need to first pull the power from a light PCB before messing w/ the data cables?
2. The #12 PCB seems to light "Left Winkie" or something like that. Best I can tell, the light is inside/under the castle wall? Or perhaps it has a light pipe that goes up to the castle PF? I can't even find where this light is, so part of me is tempted to not fix it, but I'll fix it anyway--it would bug me if I didn't. :]
Actually, there are quite a few GI lights in the back corners that are so well hidden that I wonder if they're even noticeable when playing.
Thanks,
-Jason
In the settings menu, disable the board that you bypassed.
The game will play normally now until you get a replacement board installed.
Quoted from Utesichiban:3 weeks of ownership and no more than 30 plays, what is the long term fix for these problems? It sounds like all of this goes back to original manufacturing flaws & defects and I may have inherited a major headache.
Sounds like regular lack of maintenance issues on your game.
Its nothing that cant be sorted out.
Everything can be fixed, however due to the age of the game now, and the 5v system, ITs a great candidate for the 2.0 system being offered by JJP.
My game is just slightly newer that yours with a lot of plays on it. Im probably going to get the 2.0 system as my boards fail due to age.
I recommend this to make the game rock solid for years to come.
Quoted from Utesichiban:Can you tell me what the 2.0 system is and how much it costs ( also how labor intensive - I am not the best at this stuff and installation may be expensive if I have to pay someone to do it)?
I don't know that the game hasn't been taken care of. It is an early run standard but the owner installed all the board fixes JJP sent him. The playfield and everything is immaculate as well.
Rather than neglected maintenance, I think if there is still a board problem, it is due to a manufacturing problem going back to when it was built.
coatthegameofblackjacktocoatthegameofblIcoatthegameofblackjacktocoatthegameofblackjacktogetackjacktogettogetit.
The 2.0 system is expensive but replaces all of the big boards in your game as well as rerouting cables.
Its a big job and takes experienced people a bit of time to do it.
That said, if I have to replace all of my boards anyway, over time, its the best solution for long term ownership.
My game is going nowhere for years to come. This is why Im going to do it.
Its about the same price as getting all new boards of the older style, if you can get them.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:To all who have had light board issues, or researched it - what's the story on that now? I understand you can pay the $800 for all new boards, but what about games which are starting to fail? Do you still have to pay full price for each board, or do they do trade-ins, or what? I'm interested in re-acquiring and trying to weight my options. I don't mind doing the work at all, but I need to understand the material cost so I wouldn't lose my shirt. . thanks!
I have 9000+ plays on my game.
It's in near perfect shape.
Audits show well over a million flips on each flipper.
The game is not worn out by a long shot! It's a beast.
Because we love the game, I'm thinking of a partial restoration.
At this time as everything on the game is showing wear now and I want it to play like it did NIB.
I'm thinking of getting a populated playfield from JJP and dropping it in, plus a faster computer to get faster load times.
At the very least I'll get the 2.0 boardset and install the new mainboard and i5 CPU.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Thanks for the responses guys! I’m potentially looking at a game which already has issues, so I’m not asking “how likely is it to fail?” so much as “what’s it going to cost me?”
If I found a game with issues for sale, and that was the reason for the sale, I wouldnt hesitate to get it.
Depending on price.
If it was a low play ECLEWOZ definitely get it.
The game is a beast, easy to fix and maintain compared to other games, once you get the hang of it all.
Quoted from dnaman:Holy heck! What would a completely populated PF field run you? With the list of things you have summarized, why not just sell it and find another? (unless you were a day 1 owner at the $6K or $6500K price, then that might explain it.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Good lord! I’m curious what the price on that is too
I paid in full years before it was built and received it about 4 months into production.
It has the latest board set prior to 2.0.
I have had zero large board failures but lost 3 single led boards.
I have replaced 6 castle motors.
I have rebuilt the flippers 4 times each.
I have replaced the sparkly flipper bats twice.
I replaced the right castle door the last time I put a motor in. It was pretty beat up but not ruined.
Last week I replaced both flipper bushings they were both broken (probably for awhile).
1.5 million and 1.3 million flipper cycles in the audits.
The game plays perfectlty and looks new. But it lacks the crispness of a NIB game.
I'm weighing the price of restoration vs playfield replacement.
The game hasn't moved since I set it up. It gets about 5 or 7 plays a day.
Most interesting is that Pinballgoddess is complaining that the flippers are too strong and the game is faster after the bushings were replaced lol.
They must have been broken for awhile and I didnt catch it.
One other thing of note, she very much prefers perfect play flipper rubbers on this game. I have all of the available types and if I put the wrong ones I hear about it immediately lol 
Quoted from apinballwiz:Just wondering, if the game plays perfectly and looks new is it worth the trouble and expense to do what you’re proposing? I’d do what I could in tweaks and adjustments to get that crispness back as much as possible, and just play the game into the ground. Otherwise I would just sell your game and get another - you should be able to get good return on a game in condition like yours. Just my 2 cents worth...
I'm also considering a playfield swap and rebuilding every single mech to new. The 2.0 update would be part of the restoration as well as replacing both mini playfields and a total rebuild of the castle pf.
There is a lot to consider...
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Thanks for posting the information. That seems like a very reliable game after 9000+ plays, wow. I've been debating on ordering the 2.0 kit (have a 7.5v game) but after reading your post I'll likely hold off. Other owners with 7.5v light boards game have reported them to be very reliable and the few that I've read that have had problems have only had to replace a single LED light board. Nearly every owner of a WOZ with 7.5v light boards I've heard from hasn't had a light board issue.
For those that have games with 7.5v boards I would recommend using Wizards Mist N Shine wax. JJP has recommended it and supposedly it reduces playfield static buildup that can lead to light boards failing. I now use it on all my games.
amazon.com link »
I wax every 350 plays with P21S.
I remove ball tracks with novus 2 and lighter fluid as a dewaxer.
I change out the rubber every 2 years or 4000 plays so it plays like new.
I change balls after each big wax job.
I use mist n shine for between waxing cleanings.
Quoted from lordloss:Here is an idea. Get a Woz playfield cleared by kruzman and do a restore with that. Ive always wondered how the game would play with a high end clear.
If I fo the total rebuild, this is what I will do.
Quoted from Utesichiban:Well, the guy I bought mine from 3 weeks ago said he had been sent and installed those fixes but at least one of these has failed with less than 30 plays since acquisition.
My personal opinion is JJP should be standing by fixing all of these early run games at mimimal cost (not $800) given their manufacturing mistakes created the situation for early and subsequent owners but I digress.
Few manufacturers if any warrant past the original purchaser.
Stern gives you 90 days period.
JJP is at least a year. Its way more than fair. They also offered 1/2 price exchanges on boards for out of warranty repairs.
I think they are very good and have set the standard for other manufacturers to follow.
Recently CGC has gone to a 2 year warranty on LE models. But only for the original purchaser.
Quoted from adol75:Oh yes, I forgot the hum in my list ! Probably the worst issue of all, and the fastest to fix . It was a good surprise though, although loosing the hum just made me focus more on the fan noise. Changing the fans is my next scheduled project, that noise is really annoying for home use, especially with the pin in my dining room !
Move the fan inside the silver box. Usually they fit, if not just get a skinnier PC fan.
90% reduction of noise.
You leveled on the playfield right?
Not on the glass, never on the glass.
The adjusters look ok to me.
I have my woz at 6.3 degrees. I think it plays correctly there, after dialling in all of the settings, and the ball is still fast.
I take the nuts off the front levelers and put them on the top of the screw, or leave them off.
This way you can get the fronts down a little more.
Quoted from merccat:I think most WOZ detractors whom have played it got stuck playing one not leveled properly. Some games can handle being somewhat out of level and play pretty good. WOZ is pretty sensitive to leveling and can be a totally different game when not leveled.
I think that all modern pins that have a lot of modes and gadgets need to be carefully leveled to work right.
Quoted from monte_:I dont know how anyone can get to sotr with three balls. This game is brutally hard and i find completing the rescue multiball super challenging. I have done it twice. I have mine set to five balls. I have almost gotten to sotr, but i couldnt finish the the rescue multiball mode. Has someone honestly gotten to sotr on a three ball game?
Narrow the outlanes, lower the slingshot power a little.
Quoted from merccat:Had this happen once, also the plunger was having a hard time dispensing a ball into the shooter lane. Balls were magnetized. New balls and all was perfect again.
Its just as Lloyd said, balls can get so magnetized they stick to the trough like glue!
Getting the plastic bottom piece solves it forever and you dont even have to remove the trough:
Quoted from avspin:I removed the cover and in test it only moves about 1/8" up and down. Nothing is hitting anything.
It looks plugged in well. If the ribbons was loose wouldn't the witch not move at all?
So I have small amount of movement, tests are green, what am I missing?
Thanks
Check the long screw rod the moves the witch up and down.
It has to be straight and centered.
If it's not centered well it doesn't work right and the sensors dont work.
It can be pushed around a bit without removal.
Quoted from avspin:Thanks Lloyd,
My game sat for a year and a half in new in box before I received it, could that be the cause for the screw drives grinding?
I grease both threaded rods little each time I wax, about every 400 plays.
Use the same lithium grease.
Pinballgoddess just posted another 5 million score on her WOZ.
I have to get 4 million just to get on the board now 
Quoted from LTG:Re-glue it.
Rare, but it happens.
LTG : )
I just re-glued mine with clear 5 min epoxy. Rock solid since.
There is a light ball track in it near the wireform now after thousands of plays. It cleans up nicely though and you cant see the ball track at all from the players perspective.
Quoted from avspin:Can you adjust the angle of view for the crystal ball?
Unfortunately no.
Its pinned by the attachment bolts.
You might be able to slot out the mounting holes to twist it slightly in one direction.
The other direction it hits the wireform.
Maybe warp the mounting plate?
To bend it up for taller players?
I just hunch down to read it.
I know that people say it's a dumb toy with no info on it, but I use it a lot.
Quoted from adol75:Has anyone installed that mod ? It's a throne room lcd screen that does look really cool. My problem is the pictures make it look like the frame is obstructing the view of the right flipper, which might be annoying to play. I'm wondering if it's just the picture of if it is annoying.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1166-pixels-arcade-games/02108-woz-wizard-of-oz-wizard-28-inch-lcd-mod
Looks really nice and professionally made.
I dont know how durable it is.
Quoted from Docb8456:so I have 2 amateur questions that may have already been answered, but i need help, so here goes:
1. how do i know if I have the 2.0 lighting (7.5 boards) in my game? I assume if i have had issues in the past, then i dont have it?
2. the mechanism that pops up the ball to go to the left upper playfield started firing non stop, rebooting the game didnt help and i am not sure how to fix it. also the right lock for the ball lock seems to be doing it occasionally as well. They are acting like it does when looking for a ball when one gets stuck elsewhere, but that is not the case here.
Sounds like a wire fell off its connection somewhere.
WOZ is interesting, if there is a wire unplugged the game does interesting things like fire a coil non-stop.
Quoted from Prienovich:Hello
I have a Eclewoz, with a not working motherboard.
Does anyone know if I can just buy a similar MSI H61M-P31/W8 motherboard and install without problems?
The reason for my question is that on my original motherboard there is a label with a number corresponding to the number on the label of the usb stick. Does this mean that the original motherboard is unique and cannot easily be replaced?
Sorry if i missed any existing threads on this subject
The motherboard is not unique, any suitable/similar replacement will work.
If in doubt, or lack the knowledge, order a replacement from JJP.
The usb stick is unique, and must be in place to run the JJP operating system.
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:I seem to recall JJP tweaking the bios for boot up which will be different with an off the shelf PC. I don’t, however, recall the details.
They did not reprogram the BIOS.
Since the OS is Linux it requires no drivers, and its not hardware specific at all.
Any of the similar MSI I3 or I5 mainboards will work, like a H81m-P33 as long as you have the regular features the game needs and it fits well enough in the cabinet.
Any BIOS settings you will have to adjust using a USB keyboard anyway.
WOZ and TH mainboards are interchangeable. Personally I would use an I5 processor for a little better performance, but its not necessary.
Quoted from Prienovich:Thank you.
I would have ordered a replacement if it was not out of stock, and I would also not bother you here if Jersey Jack had reacted to my support request(4 weeks ago) or my email 3 weeks ago.
My game is located in a public place and I am a little embarrassed to leave it standing there not working for a month already.
The story is
One evening the power supply board went up i smoke due to the well known weakness(that I did not know of at the time). It burned a hole in the board under the L9 inductor.
I bought a replacement at a local distributor and installed it, only to find out that damage had also been done to the motherboard.
As it is not available by JJP i bought a replacement motherboard elsewhere. I took RAM, processor and fan from the defect board and put in the new board.
Fan is running but nothing else happens. No bios.
Maybe the processor was fried at the same time, so I guess my next step is to get a new processor.
I could ofcourse try the RAM first but my feeling says processor.
Generally CPU does not go bad.
I would check my power supply and connections.
If in doubt, pull the mainboard out.
Put it on a worktable, plug in a monitor, keyboard and mouse.
Plug in a standard ATX power supply, briefly jumper the power switch pins.
It should boot to the cmos.
If not, troubleshoot from there it's easier than in the game.
Clear the cmos by jumper or removing battery.
Bad RAM will keep it from booting, so put them in one at a time.
Quoted from coz6:Woz won't boot and you don't get the back glass lights look to me before tearing into your problems.
[quoted image]
Yeah, check every single connector. They gotta be inserted all the way, and straight!
Quoted from RTS:Thanks for the suggestions. I removed the witch and used some white lithium grease and kept bending it slightly until I got it working.
It really took forever to show any consistency. It would work 10 times and then get stuck on the 11th. I think if I sneeze it may stop working. But for now it's been steady. Thanks for the help!
This is exactly how its adjusted and maintained!
It can be a bit sensitive but, once its working its pretty stable.
Quoted from DCFAN:12 volts. If you are a little handy you can buy a 25 foot green LED strip from amazon or ebay for about $13 and make your own replacement.
Maybe get color changing!
Quoted from JOESCHALL:Thanks. I'll try that and get back.
Jumper the reset pins on the mainboard if there's no switch.
Just like a PC.
Quoted from Wanderers:Gutted thought I had LED problems again with my WOZ. On my GIs i only had tin man number 28 and a few others lit up ( like the photo )
Messed with bypasses etc for 2 hrs, nothing positive. Turned the machine off and on again, it worked perfect. Why?
[quoted image]
You have a loose connector somewhere.
Hard to find.
Quoted from dirtbag66:Different topper as well. Hope he didn't cave at all this "2.0 or nothing" talk. Mine has the 7.5 system and runs like a champ.
Same here, very few problems other than castle door motors every couple years.
I just ordered 2 more as one is whining and opening inconsistently.
10000+ plays getting ready for a teardown and rubber replacement
Quoted from Wildbill327:Is there a way to bypass the lock when the Munchkin Playfield is ready? Just seems like they are always ready at the same time.
I havent needed to do this, but its a bit of a strategy as to how one stacks modes.
I try to stack 2 balls locked, then start a munchkin mode, then start rescue mutiball.
During rescue MB, ECMB generally starts as well as a crystal ball mode.
Stacked modes really pay off on WOZ. With the help of a multipier 600k+ bonuses are not unknown.
Quoted from Wildbill327:Not sure about much better but I guess that’s a matter of opinion, thank goodness we play them instead of hanging them on the wall.
I'm with you.
I haven't seen my direct print cabinet in years since its between my other games. So no big deal.
In fact kinda silly if you think about it.
Also the wood apron is cool but has absolutely no effect on the game whatsoever.
You play the playfield, pure and simple.
Congrats on getting an amazing game!
Quoted from Gotfrogs:There is something up with that switch behind the house for sure. It functions when I press it be looks to be deformed. I will work on it tonight. So if it does not trigger you can not use the munchkin flipper?[quoted image]
The munchkin flipper and the castle flipper are always on, all the time.
They should flip when you press the flipper buttons.
Each flipper cabinet switch has 2 leaves, one for each flipper.
Check that both leaves make contact and there are no loose wires.
Since the game is brand new and has been shipped, Its a good time to raise the playfield, WITH Power Off, and check every single connector on the game for looseness and making sure they are firmly pressed in.
This would include all the circuit boards and all associated connections.
It takes about 15-20 mins to check them all.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:You guys are right on the money! I did't even know there were two contact for the switches. Sure enough the two inner contacts were pressed together which is what was causing the problem! After bending the right contact out, I can now control the flipper on the munchkin platform with my cliffy installed! This also explains to me why it was so dam difficult to enter my initials when I got a high score. The machine would keep cycling through letters unless I pushed the left or right button. I kept thinking to myself why in the world did they set this up this way? With the switch not stuck close it works as expected!
I really cant thank everyone enough! I was really bummed about not being able to play with my machine the first weekend that I owned it. Do you think the life of the coil has been compromised with it getting so hot and melting the outer plastic? It works today but who knows how much life was pulled from it being powerd on continually for several hours.
Again thanks a million![quoted image]
If the coil works its probably ok, they are super durable and last decades.
But, I would get a replacement coil and sleeve from JJP anyway, plus any other cooked parts if they look bad.
If they mount the connector on it for you then its a very easy swap out.
Just make sure its wired properly compared to yours.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:Hey guys. I am having an issue with my right single castle door not opening. I created a new thread to prevent too much discussion in this 131 page thread. If you have dealt with this issue before, please check out my post.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-assistance-with-woz-single-right-castle-door-not-opening-#post-4796750
Thanks!
Your on the right track.
See responses on your thread.
Quoted from darkryder:The 'A' letter LED on my WOZRR is not behaving correctly. It's lighting the wrong color or not at all. I put the game through all of the lamp and flasher tests and this is the only light on the game I see with an issue. Is the RAINBOW lamp board defective or is the individual LED bad? Any help would be appreciated:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GuFbyiWV92BXxmrYDmoHzoq5lp75ODTC/view?usp=sharing
The individual LED or little driver chip is most likely bad.
Get a replacement board if under warranty.
Its possible someone here can repair that also.
Quoted from imagamejunky:I'm in!
Very late to the party I know, but super happy to finally be in this club!
Loving this beautiful pin.
Man what a light show!!
[quoted image]
ECLEWOZ #937 congrats on the awesome game!
Quoted from darkryder:If anyone has a good used 7.5v rainbow board, please PM me. Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]
Is someone repairing these for less than $200 ?!
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Depends on what blew. If it was the LED, not a huge deal to swap. IF it was the driver chip it is a total PITA to switch (center slug, plus it is EOL and hard to find at this point)
Still, for $200 a pop for replacement, it seems it would be a good business decision to dust of ones hot air work station/toaster oven and rework these boards.
Quoted from darkryder:I found a good used 7.5v Rainbow board locally for $100. Should have it in a few days and hopefully that fixes the issue. This forum rocks!
Yay!
Quoted from Wanderers:Fair point and a great credit to Lloyd, but some issues are out of his hands and you would assume the way to go is through the correct channels, direct to Jersey Jack Pinball, would it not.
I agree they need work on answering the phone to get parts etc.
Also the online store needs to be an actual parts interface. That would be super helpful.
Quoted from avspin:I'm still waiting of stuff from October to be shipped to me.
You might want to call and check on it.
However some items are from 3rd party vendors and you have to wait for them to be produced.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:I have had my NIB WOZ for about two weeks now and just had one of the rubbers break on me. It is #11 at the top of the playfield. Mine was white but the manual says it is a 2" black ring. I would guess these kinds of things are considered wear items and not covered by a warranty but is it normal for them to break so quckly? This is my first pin, where do you recomend purchasing a replacement? Are thre higher quality ones that I should use? Thansk![quoted image]
I think they put white rubber on the upper sling to get a little better action from a slow moving ball in that location.
White rubber is bouncer than black but doesnt last as long.
It's fairly easy to replace considering the location though.
So put a white one there.
The right post sits very tight against the lane guide. The rubber can get nicked or cut upon assembly if you dont stretch it thin when you put it on.
Properly assembled the rubber lasts years.
WOZ castle door tip:
If the right door stops opening properly and it's not loose on the shaft or making a whining noise:
Try cleaning the pins on all the castle playfield connectors with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip.
Especially #11 or the big 9 pin motor wire connectors.
I just replaced my 2 motors that were burnt out.
They were perfect for a couple days then the right one developed problems. Since they were new, I decided it was low power due to connector failure.
A fair amount of black oxidation or pinball dust came off onto the q-tip. Possibly from the castle flipper mech. (I rebuilt the mech when I had the playfield out. It was pretty worn at 750,000 flips).
Cleaned all the pins and it's perfect again.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:One of my tree bumpers just came detached from the bumper. How does one go abought tightning item #5? Do you have to remove item #6 first to gain access to the screw heads? The nust seem gard to get ahold of without damaging the tree.[quoted image][quoted image]
Look at #5 on the parts list.
It's a small flat head screw that holds the tree mounting plate onto the hex post.
It probably under or inside the rubber tree and just came loose.
If not you will have to chase it down.
Remove the tree from its mounting plate with a small nut driver. Long shafts work well here.
Just press down on the small black nut firmly. The rubber will move out of the way.
Dont lose the nut. Magnetic nut driver here if you got it.
If the screw has disappeared start looking around in the cabinet or all around the playfield for this small screw. Its black.
A magnet or magnetic pickup tool works wonders to find little unseen parts inside the cabinet or crevices and under lane guides or plastics.
If you can't find it get one from the hardware store 6-32 x 3/8" flat head machine screw with Phillip's head.
10 cent item.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:Thanks, got it fixed. Thankfully the screw was still hanging from the base of the tree. The other screw inside of there was also really loose so I tightened it as well.
Blue loctite on these if it comes loose again. Not red, use blue loctite or permatex.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:No cliffy
The ball is being smoothly ejected, consistently, no bounce backs. Both balls are ejected into the shooter lane
as I was trying to sort this out, I fished around near the jam opto, and made sure it triggered properly. After I re-verified the optos and switch, I started a game. And ... so far no double ball. What the hell?! I changed nothing.
Dirty or misaligned opto.
Quoted from adol75:What are your thoughts on changing balls ? I see a lot of people change them every 500 plays, and read some comments regarding the poor quality of JJP balls although it's not much documented. My balls are perfectly clean and shiny after 1500 plays.
Is there any reasons to change them ? Or anything to look for specifically that says it's time to change them ?
1500 plays you should replace the balls. When you get the new ones compare them to the old ones.
JJP uses very good balls, standard high carbon pinballs. They are just fine and low magnetism.
It's not the shinyness we are looking at.
Its surface deformation.
Look at your balls under a jeweler's loupe you will see flat spots and cuts.
Theses surface deformations grind the clearcoat to a fogged surface over time.
Certainly the playfield can be buffed out to clear again, but changing balls makes the playfield last and look new a lot longer.
40000 plays without wax and changing balls removes the playfield art.
Have a look at any location game that has zero maintenance.
You will see unneccessary wear.
After purchase pinball games will still be played 30 or more years from now.
They will look great with a little maintenance.
Quoted from adol75:Thanks for the explanation. I surely am interested in keeping my playfield perfect, so I'm sold !
What balls do you get ?
Get these
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5
Get 3 tubes so you can change them again in 400 plays.
And wax the playfield and ramp with blitz if you haven't already
Quoted from dnaman:Folks, what has been some of the ways to fix the release of balls from the munchkin lock?
I think that I have tried everything.
IE: bending the small resting tab underneath the lock bar which holds the balls back (the lock bar which raises and lowers with the coil). I have bent this down and up, both in varying amounts. Basically resulting in the arm letting the first ball through and the arm sitting on top, or slightly top front of the next ball, or letting them through. Note: if I bend the tab to allow the arm to almost sit on the plastic subway then the first ball seems to cup into the backside of the face of the arm and the coil won't pull up the arm. I have put tape across this opening to see if the position of the arm solves the release of multi-balls but it does not.
There is a coil setting for the release timing of balls 1,2 and 3 when locked and releasing them for multiball. I don't believe that has anything to do with what I need. That would just allow you to wait between releasing the balls.
I think that the pitch of the pin is ok. Not sure what else to try. This makes it bad (unfair) for a multi-player game of course.
In order to get the lock bar to work properly you first have to make sure its tightly mounted.
the tolerances are so close that loose screws really affect it.
Under the hut plastic the the top screw on top of the ball lock solenoid assembly is generally not tight.
You might notice this because the lock bar can move side to side in the ramp when it should be firmly mounted.
Tighten the big silver single screw and put blue loctite on it.
Secondly the 2 screws on the bottom of the ball lock coil assembly are always loose.
These are harder to get to as you have to remove the ball lock assembly from the ramp. Its not hard just tediuous.
After you made sure the assembly is firmly mounted, you can proceed with adjustment.
Adjustment is pretty straightforward.
Make sure when the lock bar is raised that it clears the balls by a good margin like 1/4"
When the bar is at rest, the lower front end downward loop has to go about 3/64" past the side apex curve of the ball.
It has to touch the ball just below the centerline.
If its higher, balls will push thru. When its slightly below the center line the balls will try to climb the loop and be trapped.
Measured from the ramp inside bottom the the edge of the loop is approx 12-13mm on my game.
After a few games if balls escape, bend the lock bar down only 1/32", or half a mm at a time until the balls try to climb the loop instead of pushing through.
If the lock bar drags on the balls you have to adjust the solenoid bracket or adjustment tab by bending it open more, until its higher and start over.
Because the sweet spot is only a millimeter or so, its important the the mounting screws are tight to begin with.
It took me 2 years to figure this out.
Properly adjusted and timed the arm will not drag on a ball and a high speed ball will not raise the arm at all if it hits the end. The curve of the ball and its rolling motion should force the arm down under the ball not up.
So, again, start with making sure the ball lock assembly is firmly mounted to the ramp before you adjust anything.
Often its just loose and needs no adjustment at all.
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:Use Novus 1 for plastics but avoid 2 for a few years/decades. That’s for scratches, esp for restorations, not regular cleaning and polishing. Use Wizards Mist and Shine on the play field to clean and polish. JJP recommends this for anti static and pf care. This makes waxing a little much, methinks. Wizards does the trick.
Novus 2 for ball tracks, blitz wax over the area after cleaning.
Quoted from adol75:I took Millwax for polishing, is that a bad choice ?
Millwax might yellow the clearcoat. Its used for old varnished games from the 50's to the late 80's.
Blitz wax, and mist n shine, for modern clearcoated playfields.
Quoted from whitey:WOZ members ? I have a Woz I’m thinking of putting up for sale . It’s a Standard that came with factory shaker
Invisaglass. Cool thing is it has s direct print Cabinet like LE originals, maybe 200
Plays it’s mint as they come what’s a fair
Price ? I unboxed this game
Thanks
[quoted image]
Is it 5v or 7.5v system?
A few very early standards had direct print cabs.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Good idea. Maybe the upper switch is getting tripped or stuck closed and it’s thinking the monkey is already at the castle
Check and adjust the monkey end switch to go down slightly more.
Also the ball sensor board can be moved around a bit if it's not perfectly aligned with the magnet post. Without completely removing it you can rotate it a bit for testing.
This only if the ball is being released from the magnet prematurely. It makes it hard for the monkey to catch it.
A lot of us flipped the sensor board over. Some boards work a lot better simply flipped over and reattached to the back of the backboard and put in the same position.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Thanks! Seems strange it would work for several days and then suddenly have this issue
Vibration may have moved something out of alignment, or something is loose.
Probably just needs a simple adjustment.
I might be in for a Yellow Brick Road edition of WOZ.
My ECLEWOZ version might want the 2.0 system, but I also like the ideas of bright yellow to spice up my gameroom.
I'm looking forward to seeing it at TPF.
As it stands WOZ is going nowhere in my small collection.
Pinballgoddess would kill me in my sleep if I sold it lol.
Quoted from LTG:I don't think it was cost cutting. What I heard here on Pinside was some features known to be problematic will be changed.
Engineering new mechs for 250 games would cost money.
LTG : )
Hopefully upgraded castle playfield door mech! I would retrofit mine if they do that.
Quoted from DCFAN:I read someone say that the monkey mech will be removed or changed in the yellow brick road version.
My guess, only a guess, is that the Yellow Brick version will be a trimmed down bill of materials lower priced version to compete with Stern Premium pricing.
I'm all in for improvements, but trimming down anything on this amazing game would be sacrilegious!
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Just a heads up for those with 7.5v light board games. I was cleaning the playfield on my WOZ yesterday and after a quick wipe down with Novus 1 went to apply a hard carnauba wax. I had been waxing the playfield with Wizards Mist n Shine per JJP's recommendation as it has anti static properties which is key to reducing the chance of light board issues on 7.5v games.
I've never had an issue with my game so figured I would skip the Mist n Shine this time and just use a caranuba wax. Well, while buffing the dried caranuba wax off the playfield using a microfiber cloth I could hear the static build up / release on the cloth. I cleaned 3 other pins prior to this and never noticed a static build up sound while buffing the playfield. I did have the game plugged in but it was turned off. I ended up going back over the playfield with Wizards Mist n Shine, same type of cloth, and noticed 0 static build up. Weird.
So if you have a WOZ with 7.5v light boards use Wizards Mist n Shine to wax your playfield. It's the static build up on the light boards / playfield that can cause light board issues and failures. Cleaning the game with a product like Wizards Mist n Shine will reduce static build up on the playfield.
amazon.com link »
I haven't seen this effect yet on my games, but it's a good thing to know.
Possibly since I'm lazy and lean on the siderails a lot and discharge the game as I go lol.
Quoted from f3honda4me:Does this actually leave any wax behind? I thought this is just a cleaner but doesn't leave any protective film/wax.
Its not a wax and protects nothing.
Its a great detailing cleaner that leaves a nice shine because it has the tiniest bit of wax in it. Something like windex with a thimble full of wax per gallon.
I use it a lot for ramps, plastics or between waxing wipe-downs of the playfield.
Its great stuff, but its in no way a wax that puts down a hard renewable protective coating.
Blitz or P21S silver can is the way to go.
Quoted from knobstone:Thanks for posting. Do you occasionally still wax the playfield? Or use Mist n Shine only?
Depends on your use.
If you intend to put 1000's of plays, then wax it often.
If you only put 100 plays on it in 5 years then a little mist n shine is perfect.
Targets being black is a sign of black dust accumulation.
Mostly under the castle and munchkin playfields if everything else is clean.
Vacuuming under the playfield including the cabinet helps a lot
If you think about it, each solenoid plunger is a little pump that sprays coil stop dust everywhere as it fires.
I remove and clean stops and sleeves about once a year through the entire game with naptha.
I really like this sfuff:
https://www.pinballlife.com/wildcat-rc-88-rubber-cleaner.html
It immediately kills black dust on targets and rubber. Smells terrible.
Rubbing alcohol inside inserts.
Sparkle and mist n shine on plastics.
Naptha and novus 2 on ball tracks.
Wax everything including ramps with blitz or P21S.
Everything will look new at 10000 plays.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Hey folks -
is there a known issue with WOZ losing its music after it's been on for a while? I keep coming in to play a game and there's no sound. Mute button is not pushed. I reboot the game and it comes back. This is after 4 or 5 hours (at least) of it being on.
Check or refresh all of the audio connections. Could be a loose RCA cable or speaker cable to the computer.
Also check the ones inside the silver box.
Quoted from sdup4fun:Has anybody had a problem with any of their flippers becoming weak generally? I have a limited edition WOZ and the left flipper seems to lose strength particularly if I play a longer game. It has reached a point that if I get the weak flippers from the crystal ball the left flipper cannot even really lift the ball at all. Thinking it might be time for a flipper rebuild...
I just finished 4 hours of continuous play. Coils were hot. Not burning hot. But very hot and noticeably weaker at the end of a game.
Chrystal ball VUK was laboring a lot.
Flipper/coil fatigue is pretty common on long games.
Sometimes wall power is an issue.
Also castle doors can stop opening all the way etc. On super long 4 player games.
Finish the game wait 25 mins all is good again.
Not a lot to do about it other than adjust your game play accordingly.
Fans can be installed like on the LOTR's but I haven't seen it to be super necessary.
Dirty coil sleeves seem to affect long games more than short games.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Another mod question - I remember in my previous WOZ, the Winkie target was the illuminated drop target, which looked great. I did not realize HOW important that mod was until I got a RR without one. But I can't find it anywhere! Is that no longer being produced?
mezel mods
Improved version:
PM indypinhead and see if he has any left:
Super Durable version, no sticker:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-lit-drop-target-for-woz
Quoted from dnaman:Has the question of 'which is the most preferred, realistic looking castle walls kit available?', been asked recently?
I have Steve G's Red smoke witch and the monkey mod is coming. Which set looks best overall? (I have the ECLE, but doubt that has any bearing in the choices)
Backalley creations are the best.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:I have a metzel mod winki target that I bought a few weeks ago and it was injection molded not 3D printed. I would expect it to hold up well.
I think that's the new upgraded one
Quoted from dnaman:That is the current price, rumored to increase at some point. Buy it if you plan on keeping your ECLE, sell off your old boards to help cover some of the costs.
I have not bought a 2.0 system yet...
I may be in the market for used 7.5v system boards for now if the used price is right...
PM me if you got em 
Quoted from adol75:I replaced the ball and used mist n shine to clean the playfield. I’m very happy with the results but I still have these little white stains (visible above the light reflection) that I couldnt get rid of scrubbing with mist n shine. Any idea how to clean those ?
[quoted image]
White Mark's are scuffs from lack of waxing. You can rub them off with novus 2, but I would just wax over them. They will go away.
Time for a little maintenance:
Remove ball tracks with naptha and novus 2.
Ground in dirt remove with novus 2.
Wipe residue off with VM&P naptha (Ronson cigarette lighter fluid for an old zippo lighter, if you dont want to store a big can from home depot).
Apply Blitz wax or P21S (silver can)
With moderate pressure Rub in a very fine coat. Turn pad frequently. Black will appear on the pad, its ok.
Let it dry half a hour.
Wipe it off with microfiber cloth.
Buff with yellow detailing flannel cloth turning frequently.
Wait 15 mins, buff it again. It will get shinier as it gets harder.
Mist n shine is not a wax. It's a cleaner.
Wax it If you want rock hard renewable, scuff proof protection to make your game last decades.
Wax it every 350-450 plays.
Change balls every 350 plays.
Quoted from PaddyLV:Matrix testing on my switches revealed that Skill Target switch (55) is down. I assumed everything after would be down, but the only other bad switches on the shared row (7) are the Throne Room VUK (15) and Witch Melted (down) (23). All others work. I tried to trace the common wire on the row (white w/blue tracing). Best I could tell there were no cuts/disconnects. Also, all wiring looked clean on the Skill Target switch. This has to be a wiring problem, because there is no way I'd have 3 non-working switches all on a common wire.
One strange observation, I did not see the white/blue wiring going to either the location of the melting witch or throne room.
Glad my day job is not mechanical/electrical engineering. My kids would be starving.
Something is disconnected or plugged in wrong.
WOZ does crazy things when you do that.
Quoted from adol75:I posted that question in the wrong thread, moving it here. I lubricated the monkey and the witch, It was a very good idea as my monkey doesn't have problems catching the ball anymore and it doesn't make any noise moving.
I wanted to lubricate the castle doors, if they need it, but looking at them I dont know where or how to lubricate them. Help appreciated
The castle doors dont need lubrication, they are directly attached to the motors.
Quoted from LTG:Yes.
Or if you replace a board and don't turn it back on. You get weird stuff too.
LTG : )
I have a couple small LED boards that the steel mounting brackets are falling off.
The rubberized adhesive is failing after years of hanging upside down.
What is that adhesive and where do I get some?
Quoted from LTG:Double sided tape. Auto parts store.
LTG : )
Thanks. I'll see what I can find.
Quoted from LTG:Double sided tape. Auto parts store.
LTG : )
3M VHB with the gray interior looks like it will work.
Quoted from Calfdemon:Need some suggestions to a problem I keep having that I am sure others have had as well. So I am now on the 2nd set of ruby slipper flippers since I bought the game NIB. A ball coming in hot broke my right slipper off of my first pair a couple of months after buying the machine. I glued that slipper back on to the flipper numerous times over about a year using many different types of glue, only to have it come flying off again during game play at some point. I noticed that hard drying glues such as super glue did not last nearly as long as some of the softer dying glues, but no matter what glue I used, it never lasted very long.
I just recently bought a new set of flippers from JJP and installed them since I was tired of the failing glue repair. Those were installed about 2 months ago now and the right slipper just broke in the exact same place on this new pair (right before the heel of the shoe). I wish it had been the left flipper as I had a good left flipper in my parts bin, but no... It had to be the right again. Anyway, I am guessing that these flipper caps break and buying a 3rd pair of flippers is pointless.
So does anyone have any experience using a glue to hold these slippers on the flipper that actually works long term?
Thanks in advance for any and all responses!!
CA gel glue. You dont even have to scrape off the old tape, just 3 or 4 drops and let it dry.
They hold forever;
I have even cut them off after they were glued with a box knife and re-glued them onto new black flipper bats.
Still holding. I didnt even bother to clean them up before gluing lol.
JJP wants silly amounts of money to tape the slippers onto a black bat.
Just scrape them off and glue them onto whatever color you want of flipper bat.
PPS still has the sparkly bats in stock that break easy for $4.50 each. I just bought some more.
Pinballgoddess likes them in spite of durability issues. She has broken 6 of them in 4 years lol.
Its ok, they are cheap enough from PPS to replace them once in awhile. And they play about the same as the black ones.
They dont last but they look good and are cheaper for now.
Quoted from bobukcat:The yellow flippers and rubbers is a little too much IMO.
The yellow rubber is pretty dirty after 1 day...
Quoted from pinheadpierre:I'm looking for some advice on improving the overall GI illumination of WOZ. I know this has been discussed as nausea but the threads I found are scattered all over the place.
I'm looking to collect the opinions of folks who have already traveled this road. I started a thread with a poll here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-s-your-favorite-gi-mod-for-woz#post-4903367
Thanks in advance for your input!
Adding a few 12v spot lights is really all that is needed. Easy to tie into the GI.
I added 6 and could probably add 2 more.
There is an illumination kit from lermods I think.
It has 6 spots and trough lights.
Pinstadiums are really bright, you can make them ptetty cheap or buy them. They put out a lot of light.
Quoted from Pinbear:Just a quick question about YBR WOZ. If there is no winged monkey, does it mean no more physical lock for Rescuer Multiball? The right door of mini castle playfield is doing nothing?
Yep, no monkey. The door is not used.
Too bad they removed it.
They should have reworked the castle doors instead of removing the monkey mech.
Castle doors are the most trouble and needed a design change.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:They did change them slightly - no more microswitches up there now optos on top on castle playfield.
That's a great improvement for sure! I just replaced both switches in mine. It's a big job.
But the short life span of the motors is still an issue.
The other weak part is the rubber door stop pad. It should be black nylon or duron. When the pad wears it creates an angled shape that allows the doors to slip past.
I glued my new stop pad in with epoxy, the old glue on the replacement pad was dried out.
I also replaced the door stops. They were worn and tended to slip under the lock. They were only slightly bent back.
10,000 plays, 70,000 balls in play = 6 motors and 3 door stop pads.
1 million flips on each flipper = 6 bats, 4 flipper bushings and several flipper rubbers.
I like the perfect play translucent red rubbers the best on this game.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:I am having some problems with my castle doors. I have a ticket open with JJP but have a party at the hose this saturday and really want to have my machine up and running. If you could take a look at my posts in this thread I would greatly appreciate it! https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-castle-doors-not-closing-fully
I responded to this in that thread.
Quoted from f3honda4me:So - how do I pay for what I want to order then lol. His site says email him to place an order...
He will email you an invoice and a link to pay him.
Cliff is really good about all of this.
Quoted from mesmashu:Hey guys, my WOZ keeps blowing a fuse after the monkey locks the ball in the castle. Once the ball is locked it will kick out the next ball and allow me to play but once I drain that the machine starts looking for a lost ball and never releases the one from the castle. Has anyone had that switch short out that fuse?
I know that fuse is shared by a lot of things so I disconnected the shaker motor first based on some other posts regarding this same fuse but it still blew on the first game after the disconnect.
Is there a way to disable the monkey mech from the menu for testing? (not at home right now to test)
Thanks.
Mike
Does the fuse blow in device test, monkey test?
You can move the monkey a little at a time to see exactly when the fuse blows, if it does blow there.
Does the fuse blow if you test the single door?
Quoted from coz6:Mylar is not going to work, this thing takes a licking and does stop ticking. Please for the love of the playfield get an edge protector.
Even gorilla tape wont protect it.
Steel is the only way.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Thanks. Munchkinland is definitely getting some Cliffy steel along with the VUKs and saucers. Magnets will get mylar rings. I'm on the fence about the shooter lane. The game serves a ball to the shooter lane SO gently, unlike my other games. Maybe just mylar for the ball serve area?
I have 10,000 plays on my WOZ. All HUO.
No wear near the magnets as long as they are just a hair higher than the playfield.
No wear on the rollovers.
Wear in the throne room saucer.
Wear in the shooter lane.
Massive wear on the munchkin playfield edge.
Some wear showing now at the inlane drop points.
Some wear showing in the state fair balloon pop area.
So, Cliffy's on munchkin edge, shooter lane and throne room.
Quoted from mesmashu:I can move the monkey in the test and it doesn't blow the fuse. I'll test the door but need to pick up more fuses. $3.50 a pop
So you don't think it's the switch that tells the machine there's a ball locked? Because it blows before rescue multiball starts and the single door hasn't activated. Are the double doors tied to the same fuse?
If it was the monkey, it should blow in test.
Does the door test blow the fuse?
It might be something else near there or a bare/broken/shorted wire.
Or the ball is resting on something bare or broken?
The doors are on the 20v system and do draw a bit of power.
Might be a bad motor drawing too much power?
Might be a short under the castle playfield.
Just guessing here.
More info and a closer inspection is in order.
Quoted from Calfdemon:I emailed an order a few days ago and followed up the next day. He emailed me back and sent me an invoice. Sometimes you just need to email him and ask if he got the first one.
He is extremely busy now with all of the amazing new games coming out!
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:Speaking about the monkey... mine randomly picks the ball up but then never drops it. If I flip a flipper it drops. Happens once every couple of games. Anyone have this issue?
Change the balls to carbon steel balls see if it drops properly in the castle.
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:I just switched the ball to ball baron carbon. Sometimes it works perfectly than all of a sudden it wont drop the ball. Maybe i need to try the tape. Thanks
Try regular marco balls. They are inexpensive. Maybe it's the composition?
I'm using bulk balls and so far no problems
Quoted from pinstyle:I get this once in a while and I am running standard balls from Marco. I never heard of the electrical tape trick. I am wondering what exactly is being accomplished by this and would a piece of mylar do the same? It would look a little nicer. Is there just a very small residual magnetic charge that is sometimes left behind and the tape is enough to inhibit that?
I have thousands of plays on my game and so far (cross my fingers) this has not been a problem for me.
But. I only use bulk cheap high carbon steel balls.
Currently I'm using chrome steel balls to fo an endurance test. I want to see if they hold up better.
They are not magnetized any more than usual after 200 plays do far.
They seem just fine.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Thanks for the pics. Now most of my pins I have wheeled down a hill into my walk out basement, but they don't weight 395 lbs. Did you guys set up this one yourself or did you get help?
Get help!
Quoted from f3honda4me:I tried turning down and it gets worse. I’ll get in there and check alignment and that all is secure. I appreciate the advice.
Pull off the apron and bend out the metal tab.
Eject a few balls you will see where its hitting.
It's the forward side tab probably.
Bend it either in or out depending on what it does.
LTG should have pics of this.
Quoted from f3honda4me:Great stuff. I searched for trough vuk and didn’t find this. My POTC has been great so I had no idea on this one!
It's a minor adjustment but important to know.
Quoted from adol75:I got the same quote, and was very close to get a truck and pick it up myself. I ended up being very happy to stick with in home delivery and setup once I saw how heavy WOZ is and the pain it took to set it up !
With shipping prices today, I can almost buy a beater truck and throw it away after a single use....
Quoted from f3honda4me:Installed my drop target from indypinhead
Love the look and how solid this feels in hand, going to be able to take a beating![quoted image]
I have over 1000 plays on mine, still solid.
The LED bulb broke (easy to just replace bulb) but the target is still good!
Quoted from Nokoro:Are these fuse LEDs supposed to be out?
Also, how did my witch get unmoored from the threaded rod? Perhaps because the motor just kept turning?
When I turn on the machine now, the ball lock door on the castle playfield just keeps clicking open and shut, even when the coin door is open.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Look st the coils, see if any look overheated.
Check for burnt connectors or maybe inserted wrong, smashed or bent onto the siderail or ground.
Looks like a high voltage short to cause that chip to burn.
Check the schematic and see what that chip controls
Could be wire cut, pinched or damaged and going to ground.
Could be a stay wire in a connector.
Screw or washer fell onto a board?
The game will not function properly until your i/o board is repaired or replaced.
Sorry to see this happening after all the work getting 2.0 up and running.
Quoted from Nokoro:Thanks. This is very disappointing. I’ll have to check everything over, likely next weekend. I feel like I’m going to be looking for a needle in a hay stack.
What would an overheated coil look like?
Shrunken, singed wrapper. Smells bad etc.
Quoted from Nokoro:Thanks Vyzer. What made you finally decide to stop looking for the short and just replace the board? I’m paranoid about replacing it as I don’t want to spend all that money just to short another board, but I’m really not sure what caused this.
pinballinreno all coil sleeves look ok.
I really need to go over everything more closely. I’m going to email JJP and see what that chip connects to to try to narrow this down. I’m not sure if the 2.0 conversion had anything to do with this. As I said, everything worked fine for about a week after I finished, and then this happened.
Take a look at the schematic.
Quoted from Nokoro:I'm not great with schematics, but if I am reading it correctly, it looks like it is a transistor thingy for the switch matrix columns. If I'm right, maybe that rules out the coils . . . .
Or a coil or diode failure killed the transistor.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:To answer that first question, yes it goes up hill and down in tests just fine.
Bent the lower switch up a little, it helped some, but not 100%, still did it again today, much better, i will try to tweak it up a little more.
Thank you again.
Put a little silicone or white lithium grease all along the threaded rod.
Same with the witch threaded rod.
One you get the monkey dialled in, its pretty stable.
I haven't had to adjust mine since the first week I owned it years ago.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Thanks bud. Im thinking just moving it cross town wiggled it or something. It was working.
Lithium applied to both rods yesterday. Made the noise it makes a little better.
That damn little coupler....at first i thought it was loose, how the hell you tighten that? Micro allen and micro wrench?
Yeah, it just has to grab.
Dont tighten it very much unless its slipping.
Moderate to light back pressure on it with a finger and it shouldn't slip.
I was concerned that the additional weight of the mod might cause it to slip, but that had not been reported.
I bet yours is just out if adjustment. It takes a little monkeying around with it.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:At what point do the witch's legs come out of house?
Go through the house calibration in device tests menu.
The legs drop when the house stops spinning.
Calibration can be tricky but yields good results.
Sometimes just manually turn th he house a tiny bit if its close to perfect.
There are a few vids posted about this as well as instructions here on pinside.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Who knows which way and direction this eddy sensor for the monkey on backboard faces?
Found my problem after looking back there 10 times.
Sensor was dangling and barely held on by one tiny screw.
Is it in right location?
And, which way should it point?
Thanks
Eric
Edit; this is the monkey eddy sensor on the back of the backboard. I also I only see one hole, seems its always been held on by just the one screw.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That looks correct.
People turn it or even flip them over to get better performance.
Basically turn it to get it to better line up with tha magnet on the playfield.
If it was dangling, that was wrong.
It's not super tight. That would break it.
It just has to be touching the wood and inline with the magnet.
You can turn it to make it respond earlier ot later after its mounted.
It's a fine tuning adjustment.
Quoted from f3honda4me:Wait so what is displayed on screen for those of us using the monkey is different than what those with YBR or using virtual lock are seeing? What would they show? I'm surprised they just wouldn't still show the monkeys carrying dorothy off? hehe
Its a slightly modified film clip.
Ball rests on the magnet until film ends and rolls down into play
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Ok you took it down stairs with the machine. Did you lay it on the ground yourself flat? Did you need help with that part?
With the Escalera, from vertical, you lay it onto the pinball plate and winch it up. No heavy lifting, controlled lowering perhaps.
Its quite slick.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Thanks for the advice this was helpful. I just realized today that my walk out basement sliding door can open another few inches if I take the door handle off! I think I can get an easy 31-32" Now I should be able to get Woz with the box into my basement for unboxing. I will lay it on the ground to slide it out of the box.. that should make things easy.
Its way easier to cut down the sides of the box from vertical, attach the front legs while verticle.
Lay game on the front legs.
Lift back of game onto a bar stool, install the back legs and then remove the bar stool.
Way easier this way and only one lift.
Quoted from bobukcat:Unless you have a bad leg from a pinball machine falling on it and you can't lift the game up high enough to put the bar stool under it.
Im in the same boat.
Too much heavy lifting from Construction...
Escalera, purchase or rental is the way to go.
Plus you can transport it with your car hitch !
Quoted from f3honda4me:But, how does laying it down and taking it out of the box laying down make that any better? Not sure I follow. :p I'd think that would be even worse then, yes? Those were the two options in the context of the conversation.
Its not that, its the actual single lift from the back on the new heavy games.
Quoted from JFink8222:If anyone near the Phoenix area is looking to “leave” the WoZ club, please let me know. Want to get my hands on one. Would like a RR and have had one on order since September (back then JJ promised them delivered by Xmas). I’m tired of waiting. Would like a newer one with 2.0 boards. PM me if you want to part from your game. Thanks everyone!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Sadly, I have to leave the club a second time - expenses and taxes got me this year, so I’d prefer to have the cushion
Located in Arlington, VA, $8100 ruby red. 2.0 boards Feb 2017 build date. PM me with an offer. Will trade for STTNG, JD (+cash)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-wizard-of-oz-56
Looks like a deal in the making !
Quoted from lurch:Back on topic here.... Any real motivation to do this update?
Support for new mainboards and newer electronics just in case.
I'm thinking of upgrading to I5 CPU and faster SSD.
Quoted from lurch:Thought crossed my mind about throwing a samsung m.2 pro in there which should last a lifetime and boost speed significantly. But I'm not sure its got the drivers for that.
Linux doesnt use drivers.
The micro code on the device talks to it instead.
Pretty much any regular SSD will work.
I'm not sure a m.2 with an adapter will though. It would be fun to try it.
Quoted from Halfwasted:Hello guys. Just joined the club with a emerald WoZ. I think I am having a lighting issue. I know there are issues with the 1.0 boards.
My lights are fine when the game starts. After a couple games some lights go out or some lights stay on the same color. Anyone have any insight into what is happening. Thanks.
I am eyeing those 2.0 board sets.
What version boardset do you have?
Quoted from f3honda4me:Linux uses drivers just like any other OS. :p
Yes, i fully admit that I should be better at linux, but the OS is designed not to be hardware specific.
At least that's what was mentioned in the past.
The 7.01 update would have an updated kernal for newer hardware.
At least that's how I read it.
Quoted from mavantix:Anyone have suggestions on what I can do about this led issue? LEDs dim and freeze. It seems to be triggered (and sometimes resolved) by flipping the munchkinland flipper.
7.5v boards, and I’ve got W6 disabled and bypassed in this demo video, but I also isolated the game to only W6 and it does the same, no amount of bypassing various boards seems to be changing anything.
Did you disable the bypassed boards in the service menu?
Quoted from avspin:So while raising raising my playfield I heard something fall off. Which is not unusually as screws are always coming of some playfields I have. But what I found on top of the computer box is a washer. But this washer has a plastic film on one side and it's covering the hole. So it was not being used as a washer. I've looked everywhere under there and can't find where or how this was used. Black on one side and film on the silver side.
Any ideas?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Check around under the playfield.
It might be a shim or spacer being used somewhere under a subway or mech.
Quoted from hisokajp:Just got a WOZ from a collector storage, early March 2013 manufacturing still running V3.0. I tried the full install of the v7.01 but I am getting some serious Kernel error below. Anyone has seen that before?
I contacted JJP support but still waiting on feedback...
[quoted image]
Bad file or incompatible USB disk.
Weak connector on the USB cable.
I also have an early 7.5v system and had to replace the cable with a better one for similar reasons.
SSD in the game is probably good although some people have replaced them. Any 30gb one will work.
Use rufus instead of unetbootin.
Unetbootin sometimes doesnt make a good image.
Use a USB 2.0 flash drive.
4 gb or 8 gb works best.
Although I am having good results with Kingston se9 early USB 3.0 data traveler 8gb drives off amazon.
Quoted from hisokajp:thanks guys.
Based on JJP support, I have used 3 different USB stick (one wasn't compatible and didn't boot) but 2 gave me the same Kernel error. The machine did not come with USB extension cable so i have open the PC chassis and plug directly into the USB port at the back.
I have used both US and EU image burnt with both Rufus and Unetbootfin, getting same error with both software.
I am happy to try a 4th USB stick before thinking about swapping SSD... This? amazon.com link »
Red stick in picture
[quoted image]
Are you using PC or Apple computer?
Maybe replace the SSD.
Not too many have had to do this, it would be a last resort.
However very many have had trouble with USB flash drives.
USB 2.0 drives generally give the fewest problems.
Quoted from hisokajp:thanks guys, i'll try another USB stick though i doubt it would make a difference at this point.
i'll wait on JJP before ordering a new SSD/SSD cable to see if they have other advice for that problem?
You don't need to order a cable, dont waste their time.
Better ones are available everywhere.
Just get a male/female USB cable 5 or 6 feet long if you want it.
Best buy. Home depot. Walmart. Etc.
Quoted from hisokajp:I was afraid of that possibility, how can i tell if it is a proto from the S/N?
Version 3 is well above the prototype code.
Do you have the 7.5v boardset?
Quoted from hisokajp:5v board set.
I have a feeling the "P" at the end of the 8 number only S/N may indicate this could be a proto machine
Yes, very early game probably a sample.
Some early games have the tornado plastic behind the munchkin playfield, the prototypes do.
You will probably have to upgrade to the 2.0 boardset. The 5v system was changed within 90 days of production, its pretty unstable.
I got my WOZ in week 12 of production and its 7.5v
Lloyd might be able to answer questions about it.
PM him
Quoted from LTG:If it's a true prototype, check what version of software is in it. If first version, your game may not be able to be updated.
LTG : )
He says its already at 3.0, are the prototypes stuck at 3.0 being the highest code?
Quoted from hisokajp:I was thinking of doing that anyway at some point. was just hoping to get some sweet recent code installed before i get around to that
What does JJP or Lloyd say about your game?
Quoted from hisokajp:i talked to Steve through their online ticketing support so far and it was escalated to the programmer yesterday for more info.
I really hope you can update the code.
Code 4.5 and 5.0 really opened up the game and 6.1 was incredible.
I started with 3.0 and have done each update since.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Im in no hurry to install this 7.1 code.
Im at 6.61, should I just wait till bugs get sorted out? 6.61 seemed pretty complete for ECLE. Opinions anyone?
Also, what should my main monitor resolution be at. Currently on 1380/ something? I played another ECLE yesterday and made a point to power it on/off. It was at the 1960, and that header page seemed to be off to the left and right to far.
Thanks
No bugs found so far with 7.1
And I have an early game with 7.5v boards.
It seems good.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Thank you.
What should monitor resolution be at?
I think mine is also 1366?
I'll check.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Thanks. Ive just now seen WOZ Emerald City with 3 different resolutions at boot up. 3 different machines. Not that it really makes a difference, i just like to know what's proper and right.
I guess its just a matter of what code and what version game/screen you have.
My Hobbit is 1080p so I imagine all new games are too.
But in digital graphics it doesnt matter, it all looks similar.
I haven't noticed that my hobbit is better or worse than my woz.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:In reference. I unboxed a Dialed In and JJP pirates, they both read 1960 x 1080.
Yep, it took them a little while to get there.
And the newer computers have way better graphics processors.
I'm thinking if going to an i5 on my woz when I rebuild the pc in it.
Quoted from hisokajp:Well, I have an Atom based proto machine locked on lower code version... I am going to try and get the above (MSI H81M-P33, i3-4170, 8gb ddr3 1600 dim) to upgrade it and see if I can run the latest code.
Does anyone has a picture of the inside of their computer? The Atom MB is clearly smaller so i will have to move things around i think
You can even use the MB from Hobbit with the new code, and they are easier to get.
Quoted from hisokajp:You have a link to one online? The other one are all used from Ebay.
The used/refurb ones should be ok.
You cant beat the $40 prices.
There's a new open box one on Ebay for $52
I would definitely get the ebay one while you can.
Can someone post the mainboard from a black arrow hobbit?
They are compatible.
Meanwhile there are plenty used mainboards out there or new for a high price:
JJP lists the populated mainboards for $199 but claim to be out of stock.
I would call and verify this, its also a good price
Quoted from pinheadpierre:I didn't know such a thing existed for WOZ. Where do you get them?
JJP has them to cover wear areas like the state fair and between the pops
Quoted from whitey:I sold my WOZ as miss playing it and pretty sure I’m ordering a YBR edition ?
Anyone play of of these ? I like the yellow
And had issues with the monkey I personally don’t think it’s that big of deal
PM me if you have YBR would love your feedback
I played YBR edition at TPF.
It plays the same as all the others.
I do like the upgrades to the castle playfield, it needed work, and the 2.0 boardset.
I think the yellow color is a bold choice and brightens up the game a lot. It still needs the playfield illumination kit. They didnt address the poor GI lighting.
Missing the monkey is no big deal, sad, but no big deal.
Quoted from harryhoudini:How have the improved door changed the game? Just reliability?
What's the flow of gameplay if the monkey doesn't lock the ball? Extra ball comes out on rescue multiball?
It just feeds another ball via the shooter. Same as if you had 3 balls locked in virtual.
Flow has not been altered. You still have to wait for the movie to end, the ball just stays on the magnet and drops into play.
My personal opinion is to get a RR version with the 2.0 boardset instead of the yellow, in spite of the upgrades for home use. It's just more interesting.
But I would absolutely get the YBR for location play. It's way more stable.
Quoted from hisokajp:First is early Atom board like mine Second one is the H61M board so that helps though it is a bit small to check all the details. Will help for now
Funny the article mention a "reset button" for the MB, I guess my prototype did not have one of those.
None of the 1st run had reset switches. Just jumper the pins on the mainboard with a small screwdriver and you're good to go.
They added a switch later to the metal box so you could hit it from the outside.
There are a fair amount of pictures in this thread. Look for reset button pics.
Quoted from whitey:So ??? Are they making more RR ?
If so no monkey ? What’s the deal
If they make more, I doubt they will put in the monkey.
They would use the new cabinet and it wont fit the monkey mech
Quoted from whitey:So ??? Are they making more RR ?
If so no monkey ? What’s the deal
If they make more, I doubt they will put in the monkey.
They would use the new cabinet and it wont fit the monkey mech
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Ah great thanks for that mate.
So if the ball doesnt make it round to the magnet and the monkey comes down anyway and goes back empty handed,
How do you relight the capture Dorothy magnet again? The flying monkey targets seem to remain lit.
Apologies for dumb questions. I still haven’t got a clue how to play the game, nevermind figure out if mechs and working as they should!
If the ball is too slow to make the magnet in time.
The monkey goes about half way then returns to the castle.
This is normal.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Me again
Ok, so I sorted the hall sensor by zip tieing it in the loom just above the magnet. Works a charm. Can’t sway in to anything to risk a short.
In other news, I noticed that occasionally when I started mutiball, the balls wouldn’t release. It would do a ball search forever but never realease the balls from the lock. In coil test the lock coil wouldn’t work. I had to remove the glass and manually lift it. Then it would work ok for a bit, then do the same.
Luckily I removed the glass quickly to investigate as I touched the coil it was red hot and then started to smoke.
I was in coil test at the time and it suddenly started lifting and dropping as it should. I obviously then turned the machine off and left it.
So in essence. The coil isn’t permanently locked on. It will function correctly sometimes. Does this rule out a dodgy transistor?
I’m guessing The coil is now fried so will need a new one anyway. I can’t test for resistance at the moment as it’s cooling down and I need to get to bed!!
This machine is testing me!!
Edit. I Have a theory and I’d be interested to hear your views. I just read a thread on pinballinfo whereby people had problems with the ball lock not lifting the armature as the gap between the magnet and the arm was too big so it couldn’t lift the arm. I’m thinking if this is the case with mine, the coil stays energised until a ball lock switch is triggered telling the machine a ball has been released, thus switching off the coil. Otherwise it continues to try and lift the armature.
Sound plausible?.? I don’t know. It kind of makes sense given that the coil isn’t locked on the whole time.
Your coil is very likely just fine.
I have smoked mine several times.
The wrapper looks bad but the coil is very durable.
Check for cold solder joints on each coil wire, flux and reflow them.
They are under the munchkin hut plastic and very easy to access with the playfield in the pulled out service position.
Adjust the lock arm a little closer to the coil so it grabs it easier about 1/16" closer.
LTG has some pictures of exactly where to bend the bracket.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Thank you all so much for the replies. I feel much better now. It’s really isn’t a big deal then at all. The game just compensates.
On a side note, my standard edition 27/1000 has a clear coated cabinet. I thought these were reserved for the ECLE’s. My friend has something in the 800’s/1000 and his doesn’t have the clear coat.
Very early standards have the same direct print clearcoated cabinets as the ECLEWOZ versions.
They were first on the line and the first games made.
There are somewhere between 20 and 200 of them.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Once again thank you to the pinside community for taking the time to help me. The coil still tested within range so it’s fine. I followed LTG’s picture guides from the other threads and it’s all good.
Until next time......
I owe you all a beer.
Think i also have my first lamp board issue. Ramp lock light. Works in test and cycles all colours. Doesn’t illuminate during gameplay. Well it starts lit then goes out.
I can see this game becoming firewood
Loose cable?
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:It works ok in test though. I’ll have a check. Since I turned it off and on again it seems to be working correctly.
Now I just need to fine tune that damn monkey who doesn’t drop the ball at the top. Most of the time the ball drops when you press the flipper causing it to vibrate off.
Yep. Sounds like a loose cable.
Carefully unplug and replug all the cables on the board.
Pay attention the the fine wires.
Try not to pull on them, but press the side release and pull on the connector end instead.
Try...its a very tight installation in most cases.
I have had the use a probe to unlatch a connector before and a pick to lift the connector.
Quoted from NYG:How should the magnet that stops the ball for the winged monkey work?
When it is active should the ball stop if it is shot up either the right or left loop?
I always thought it stopped both ways but now during gameplay it only stops if shot up the right loop
It should work both ways if its lit.
Check/clean the opto's in the haunted forest loop. Might be unplugged, wire loose, bad crimp etc...
Check it in switch test with a ball
Quoted from NYG:Both the left orbit enter and left orbit made switches work in test mode.
Anything else to check?
The monkey sensor switch does not work in test.
Is white button left of the coin door pulled out to enable power?
Check it in game.
Press the winged monkey standups until the back board light flashes. Throw a ball thru the loop.
Might have to adjust the sensor so it sees the ball from both directions
Quoted from RPZ:I’ve recently installed mirror blades on my WOZ, however I was playing a game and the ball got stuck, when I went to lift playfield, it was catching on something I couldn’t see (didn’t expect) but it was the mirror blade at the back, and I killed a decal... my fault as I didn’t put a screw at bottom back of blade.
I know I can buy a whole set from JJP but seems pretty expensive for the one decal.
Wondering if anyone here may have bought a decal set to replace a different one and have this one still available? Any other options?
Thanks!
[quoted image]
Might be able to rub that down.
Witha a grayer and some care.
You cant really see that area playing the game.
Get the blade protectors from pinball life.
They are worth every penny.
Quoted from hisokajp:well my prototype was upgraded from an Atom board to a MSI H81M-P33/i3/8gb, v7 booted and all (yay) BUT the lights are now pretty crazy... Not sure if that has to do with the upgrade or just the 5v board.
Thoughts?
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ahxi0c_5v2PVpJd9HYxREhXQdCYBqw?e=3bUfJQ
JJP will help sort it out.
Quoted from hisokajp:That's the hope they did say early Atom prototype were orphaned to them. I'll try some led troubleshooting while I wait for their feedback
Yep, they are really good
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Hey guys so my woz is up and running and initially I had a switch error 20 but that went away. My flying monkey seems to be rubbing against the play field . Please see photo what should I do to fix it ? It’s kind of scratching near the top where the flying monkey comes from. Maybe the track that it goes on is loose? Any ideas would be appreciated. its mild, but there, I may need to cover it up with some black marker on the wood panel. This seems to be the only problem so far! Kind of reminds me of the Alien head mech same kind of idea I guess.
Thanks
[quoted image]
Could be a little tight at the top.
See if you can loosen the screws holding the track on and move the upper end up slightly.
If it wont go up enough, elongate the holes in the upper mounting bracket slightly with a dremel.
It only has to up a little to avoid scraping. Binding in the unit will shorten its life.
Sharpie marker will cover the scrape perfectly.
Quoted from harryhoudini:May I recommend a Sharpie paint marker? Covers a little better, has a closer finish and doesn't have that sort of purple hue to it. I have two different sets from different manufacturers and use them for all sorts of touch-ups.
amazon.com link »
Absolutely. Paint pens Rock... and they dont fade to purple like markers do.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Someone want to come over to Michigan and fix it for freeeeeee???!!!
Probably just loosening the mounting screws on both ends and pulling the top end up a tiny bit will fix it.
re-tighten the screws after its adjusted.
Quoted from Calfdemon:They may have redesigned their target, I just know that initially they were breaking constantly and the reviews reflect that. It might be a better product now, but the initial problems were why I steered clear and have been VERY happy with Indypinhead's design.
As for the color changing bulb, it does not change in conjunction with the rest of the lights and Im okay with that. It was either going to be an always on solid color, or a slow fade to many colors. I went with the changing colors. I didnt do any extra work to make it on/off as you are thinking or to try and get it to go with the rest of the light show. I suppose there would be a way to get a JJP LED board and have it mirror another close by light so it works in conjunction with the rest of the game? Something to think about I suppose..
Indy pinhead polycarbonate target is light years ahead.
Thousands of plays and still perfect.
Went thru 9 mezel targets in 2000 plays.
Just sayin...
Quoted from jasonbar:Howdy-
2 lighting questions:
1. The throne room wizard head has a bit of flicker. Not the consistent pulsing when it's "lit" for a shot.
Sign of LED strip pooping out? Reseat connector? Other?
2. After playing for a bit (15 minutes-ish, sometimes longer?) some of the light boards go out or go dim & "freeze." No real pattern to which ones go unresponsive or their particular behavior.
I don't *think* it's a case of a board going out & all boards downstream also go out.
A hard reset of the machine always fixes the lights.
The delay before misbehavior, & the inconsistency suggests...a heat issue? Reseat or wiggle the RGB LED board cables?
Game is ECLE S/N 0196, an early build. Has 5V PCBs, except W5 Haunted Forest PCB is 7.5V.
Thank you,
-Jason
Thanks,
-Jason
Loose connection or worn fatigued cable at this point.
Consider the 2.0 upgragde now, 5v games are getting pretty old...
Quoted from Oneangrymo:I love my WOZ and Dialed in CE so much Im going to get POTC now. But I only have room for one more pin, what u guys think get POTC or wait for toy story?
In my opinion. Get black knight SoR.
I just unboxed an LE.
Man what a game.
It's a William's game through and through.
Does not in any way play like a stern.
Really an amazing game.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Are you suggesting it is on part with the JJP games posted?
It better than JJP POTC and Wonka.
Probably the best stern ever made.
Probably because it's a Williams game lol.
Great innovation and use of mechanical locks.
Great use of the Knight, you really feel the battle is real.
Great use and integration of the LCD screen.
Deep immersive gamrplay.
It's a winner.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Wow... can't wait to play it then. So many people love POTC, would be interesting to see what you think is a better game.
Play an LE, I was impressed with the build quality and features.
Plus it still felt like black knight only better on so many levels.
I have 2 JJP games and am not impressed with the last 2 offerings.
I'm a bit jaded like many others.
Black Knight SoR, impressed me.
Quoted from PinJim:That seemed to help some.
I suspect there’s a deep issue with the flipper. The game has around 650 plays on it so in theory the flipper bushing isn’t bad, but the flipper is very weak. I noticed that that the linkage was connected too low on the flipper shaft so there was a lot of slop. You can adjust that without removing the playfield, which I did. Still though, the flipper feels weak. I’ll pull the playfield when I have a few free hours...
Any adjustments or repairs to the castle Playfield flipper require removing the castle Playfield.
Fortunately removal of the castle Playfield is a simple task follow the instructions in the manual exactly. It takes about 10 minutes to remove.
I had to rebuild flippers on my original game at about 650 plays.
Quoted from PinJim:What is a power rectifier? I know what a bridge rectifier is, but I’m guessing you are talking about something different?
A variac
Quoted from PinJim:Without looking at the schematic, I assume a transformer steps down the AC, which is the rectified and smoothed via caps. And the resulting DC power is used for coils? Just seems like a 5VAC difference at the wall would be negligible by the time it gets to the flippers? Then again, you are LTG.....and I’ve been reading your posts since way back in the rgp days. So no disrespect meant. Back in those days I read damn near every post. So much was learned from reading that newsgroup...
To be fair, I find the lower flippers to be too strong at default power. But the castle playfield flipper was set at 7, and had very little umph.
Flippers and the high voltage system is unregulated as far as power goes.
Dont ask why, it's just always been done that way.
Low voltage is regulated.
Wall current has a big affect on the high voltage system.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I ended up redesigning the castle door switch triggers. They were just geometrically designed in a weird way that caused them to take way more pressure to close than needed. In fact, the switches used were probably a bad choice and the position was definitely poor. With some simple tweaks to layout I reduced the pressure needed by a lot and made it much easier to adjust the door springs properly.
I've replaced some parts on the witch but not touched the switches. Wondering if there is a simple fix that can help relocate those switches in a way that will allow for easier setup/triggering. I can take a look if no one else does.
I wonder if you can retrofit optos like on the YBR edition.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Wow those do look nice. I have ZERO confidence I would not destroy them.
Pull the playfield out, much easier to install them.
Quoted from harryhoudini:How exactly do those work? They look temporary (like you put them there when you lift the playfield?). And the magnets are there just to hold them in place while you do work on the playfield? Interesting..
You gotta have them these days.
I have 3 sets. They live inside the games.
I pull them out always and slide them on before working on any game.
No Nick's, no scratches in the black paint, no tearing of the side art.
They are a must have, and you have to develop the habit of using them.
So I got multiple sets to always have them on hand.
Quoted from harryhoudini:To hold the door to the post? They all use the same screws. It's a M6 or M8 I believe, like a few mm long. I ordered them from JJP since I didn't know the specs, but then someone posted them here (maybe LTG).
Door attachment screws are 6-32 x 1/4 pan head phillips screws black painted
the post to motor shaft are 6-32 x 3/16 (1/4 also work perfectly) black oxide Allen cap screws.
The motor shaft screws in the game are a bit soft. If you get replacements, get case hardened grade 12 if you can.
The manual states 6-32 x 1/8" set screws for the motor shaft to post.
This is incorrect. They were upgraded to Allen screws to get them tighter fitting very early in production, like week 1.
Quoted from brooklynknight:I just joined the club and got my WOZ (pictures to come) yesterday. I posted under just tech, however thought this may be a better place to post my current challenge with it. I almost have it dialed in perfect, however I have been experiencing a couple of issues with the ball lock. The first thing that I noticed, is the ball lock releasing a 2nd ball when it is not multiball. My question on this is exactly how do you suggest I set the timing? there are 3 ball lock options in settings, who's default is 250. Do I leave ball one timing alone and only adjust the other two? Do I want the numbers higher or lower to try and get it not to release a 2nd ball? Do I need to drop my pitch? Just trying to troubleshoot.
The other odd challenge is when I get "there is no place like home" and there is a ball in the ball lock it will release it into play(before starting there is no place like home). if I drain that ball i do not receive there is no place like home. This has happened a couple times so not sure why or what is telling it to release the ball during there is no place like home.
Thanks in advance for any and all assistance!
The ball lock settings are individual to each game.
The numbers represent how long the arm is suspended up above the balls in milliseconds.
The 3 settings are how long the arm stays up with 1 or 2 or three balls already present in lockup.
Its very common for a ball to escape once in awhile.
On my game its the second ball always with one ball in lockup. You hit the ramp with a 3rd ball and one ball is released but once in while a second ball will escape.
Adjusting the 2nd ball lock setting can help. But if its infrequent, the ball escapes are considered normal.
If you dont have the patience or time to make fine adjustments, virtual locks are provided in the service menu to bypass the mechanical locks.
Quoted from brooklynknight:Having a odd issue with the crystal ball VUK. If I set it at its default coil power it is way too strong and the ball flies out and drains every time. The pin is level and when I bring it to 13 there are times it makes it and others that it does not have enough strength to make it up the vuk, then I assume it compensates and shoots it out at a faster rate which drains it. If I set to 14 it is too much power. 13 works 75% of the time and 10% to 15% on the 2nd try it makes it, however there is that 10% to 15% that on the 2nd kick out it s power is too strong and it drains.
Is it time for a new coil? Any suggestions are appreciated.
It's a delicate adjustment.
If you get 2 balls in there it over compensates and blows them out.
Adjust the vuk until the ball barely makes it out when the game is under load, like during multiball.
Wall power affects this a lot, so expect it to vary a little bit.
It stays hot until the ball ends.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Listening....Yes I have and am having this problem sometimes.
Check for cold solder joints on the little coils under the munchkin hut.
My game was anemic on the lock bar until I reheated those wires
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Best, easiest way to replace winky target?
Just unscrew the whole popper from playfield.
Winky broken....
Yes, disconnect one of the wires to get access
4 screws, one of them you need a magnetized screwdriver. A nut driver wont fit.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Thank you. Been looking around. Need to order another lit winky. Anyone know a good place to get the lite clear winky?
Indipinhead makes the best one.
Quoted from mavantix:Some of the problems with the old boards have to do with interference from nearby EMI sources that cross onto the communication wires between the boards and aren't failures of the boards themselves. Moving the wires around can actually resolve lighting issues in these cases. One way to tell if interference may be your issue and not a bad board/wire is if power cycling the game restores full lighting functionality until you play it and flip some, and then after some gameplay half your lighting dies out, and may or may not come back by itself...until you power cycle again.
Source: Resolving my ECLE issues with some help from folks around here when JJP support stopped replying to me.
A lot of the moving wires around to fix lighting issues has been from loose wires in the wall nuts.
Wall nuts were never recommended for stranded wire.
It compresses and loses contact.
Wall nuts are typically used for solid core wire.
Quoted from mavantix:Umm, there are no wall nuts on the inter-board communication wires I'm talking about moving away from EMI sources.
Yes. But just raising the playfield can fix lighting issues or cause them, if you have loose wall nuts.
My game has done this from the beginning.
Its fairly stable if you dont mess with it too much.
Quoted from bobukcat:Did they change that at some point because I don't remember encountering any wall nuts (which I fricking hate!) when I pulled the old wiring harness out while doing the 2.0 upgrade?
Mine has a huge bundle of them hanging down from the bottom of the playfield.
Once in awhile after doing maintenance I have to pull on them or wiggle them to get the lighting back up.
It's not frequent, maybe 5 times in 5 years lol.
Quoted from Nokoro:I now know what those things were that I removed when I did the 2.0 conversion. What's their purpose again?
Wire nuts instead of molex connectors.
Very fast assembly, inexpensive, low reliability on stranded wire.
kinda like IDC connectors, just jam the wire in and your connected, for awhile...
Quoted from JoshODBrown:Hoping someone here has some experience with WOZ Switch matrix issues.
My biggest problem seems to be with a number of switches in column 12 (Gray-Orange) and affects everything from switch 90 to 96 (mostly the rainbow targets + the scarecrow rollover)
In Switch test menu, hitting most of the targets on column 12 also will trigger targets on the corresponding row
For example:
Switch 89 (R) seems to be totally fine! - ROW 1
Switch 90 (A) Triggers itself OK plus triggers switch 74 (Glinda Target) - ROW 2
Switch 91 (I) Triggers itself OK plus triggers switch 75 (Emerald City Ramp Enter) - ROW 3
Switch 92 (N) triggers itself OK plus triggers switch 76 (Emerald City Ramp Made) - ROW 4
Switch 93 (B) triggers itself OK plus triggers a change on Switch 13 (Spinning House Notch) - ROW 5
Switch 94 (O) triggers itself OK plus triggers switch 14 (which says its not used) - ROW 6
Switch 95 (W) is totally dead - ROW 7
Switch 96 (Scarecrow) triggers itself OK plus triggers switch 80. - ROW 8
No other switches on the game appear to be triggering anything else erroneously. The additional switches that are also triggered by switches in column 12 are OK on their own switch tests (Glinda, Ramp Enter, Ramp Made, etc)
I haven't had time to get under the playfield quite yet to take a closer look since ive been busy with work this week, but want to make my battle plan for the weekend.
I am guessing at least a few diodes in column 12 of switches have crapped the bed? Is it possible they are all bad, or more likely one in the chain is causing all of the problems? Anything else I should rule out before I start testing diodes?
Check if you have a wire fallen off.
Check for wire shorts.
Maybe a wire is loose or plugged in wrong, or the wrong location.
After that maybe a broken diode.
Quoted from Pinkitten:I bought my WOZ new in 2016, it was manufactured in 2015 and has version 1.1 light boards, which are the 7.5v. I still own it, and have put about 700 plays on it without incident. I have been fortunate, as I know this is a common problem. I’m just wondering how common. Does anyone know, perhaps from JJP discussions? Is it a 50/50 proposition? Or is it happening to most owners of pre-2.0 boards? I know the upgrade isn’t cheap. I assume it’s not free either from JJP, even though they replaced the 1.0 and 1.1 boards in manufacture?
I’m just grateful my game has worked perfectly so far, but I’m concerned that it could fail. I hope the 2.0 boards are avail for many years!
I have a similar game.
Over 10000 plays on it.
No issues.
Light boards have been solid as a rock.
That being said, all things wear out in time.
When the need comes to restore my game, I will intall the 2.0 system for compatibility and servicability.
I might do it on the next complete teardown.
It's time to look at coil sleeves throughout and do a complete cleaning and rubber replacement.
Quoted from wtatumjr:I've been absent for a while but anyone add the Pinstadium lights? What do you think?
I added them, they add tons of light!
I took them out and added 8 spotlights in a few areas.
It's less light but I like it better.
Quoted from Daditude:What is the ELCE?
ECLEWOZ
emerald city limited edition wizard of oz.
Some of us waited years to get one.
Quoted from harryhoudini:That's correct. The green edition is special and only sold by Automated, I believe.
This is correct.
It's a special automated edition.
Basically a standard with green armor.
Quoted from harryhoudini:In case someone here might be able to help, can't get a new crystal ball screen working: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-do-i-need-to-make-a-new-crystal-ball-screen-work
If a factory screen wont work.
I'd suspect the cable or contacts on either end.
Maybe, just maybe a bad or corrupt sdcard.
Most of the problems have been bad cables and loose cards.
Quoted from oropuro:So are these 50 green automated versions, out of the 1000 standard? Which seems to be the most rare already? And is there a way we could call the standard the Tin Man edition if I add chrome coin door ?
Stainless armour, stainless door, silver mirror blades, chrome wire forms, silver power coated apron.
Tin funnel topper, with the omitted tinmans revolver lol.
Minor software tweak.
I can see this! And it'll be awsome!
Tin Man edition. Trademark it quick before Jack does!
Quoted from harryhoudini:If anyone is interested I posted my mega WOZ lighting kit for sale. It has more lighting than any other kit, full RGB independent control of the backboard and trough lighting, double illuminated trough lighting for even brighter options, fully dimmable LED strips and a selection of white and purple bulbs to adjust the spotlights to your liking. Fully plug and play, remove a few nuts, run a few wires, etc. Has the option for the flickering flame in the TNPLH hot air balloon as well.
https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mega-lighting-upgrade-kit-jersey-jack-pinballFlickering flame balloon mod
https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/wizard-of-oz-flickering-flame-hot-air-balloon-jersey-jack-pinball
Those are really nice kits!
Quoted from harryhoudini:That's interesting! I wish someone would make a replacement for those huts. A nice molded piece that covers more of the ball lock and diverter.
I'm thinking a more post apocalyptic hut area.
Something that looks like the witch attacked it and it's a smoking ruin.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:YBR is incorporated into the regular WOZ manual. Wonka not yet.
Good thing I was too lazy to buy the $100 manual a ways back.
It would be a $100 boat anchor now with all the updates...
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