(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

10 years ago


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#3591 7 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

One time, after playing several games, I noticed that certain shots weren't lighting up. I went into test mode & saw that many of the lights were off or stuck on a specific color.
Reboot fixed it.
Only 1x in about 6 months.
-Jason
PS--and had the game freeze a couple of weeks ago--only time in 6 months, reboot fixed that too.

Yes, this has happened as well.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Check for a loose cable into the rear of the computer box:
While the game is turned on and the playfield is extended to its further most rubber feet. Look in the rear area behind the playfield.
Grip the big black hose full of wires, behind the playfield ,at the bottom of the cabinet and move it around.
If the lights go on and off, one of the connectors in the back of the computer is loose.
Wiggle them one at a time and you will find it.

I can check, but the problem has been freezing lights or all off as described above, not necessarily blinking on and off. It is very rare.

#3593 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

That sounds like low power from the wall crashing the PC once in awhile.

It could be. Several others have reported the same so I'm not the only one.

#3608 7 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Im just worried about resale value down the road. Was told to use touch up paint on door . Im sure one will be able to tell it was touched up. Am i being to anal? I mean this was a nib pin i know adjustments need to be made but cosmetically should have been good.

I don't think that minor scratch will affect resale value all that much (if at all). We all want our NIB games to be perfect forever, but the fact is, even in HUO environments, they will get minor scratches over time. I know my game has a couple of incredibly small blemishes that probably only I would notice.

1 week later
#3635 7 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Changed up my shooter thanks to PinballPlatingAndMore. Came out great!

That looks great!

#3645 7 years ago
Quoted from pin2d:

I have an lighting issue that is popping up from time to time. Lights on the lower right half "freeze up", and a restart is required to reset them. Can anyone tell me which board needs to be replaced based on the pics below? I took two pics to show the which lights are freezing up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I would call JJP. I am having some lights lock on intermittently, and I called yesterday. It sounds like there couple be a few issues to check.

2 weeks later
#3736 7 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Game play is identical regardless of version.
Price does vary for used but NIB is pretty consistent since they are still being produced.
I do recommend playing before buying. Its an spectacular game and probably the best in my opinion but depending on the type of gameplay people enjoy some don't enjoy it as much.
I see your in CA, going to PAGG? I'll have my WOZ there which plays very nicely. Hopefully power usage with a few hundred other machines running won't weaken the flippers too much.

I agree you should play before you buy, but it is so hard to get a feel for WOZ on location. I hated it at first, but now I love it. Unless you have endless dollars, it takes in home use to really get a feel for it.

1 week later
#3781 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Instead of counting up to x balls it starts with x balls and counts down to zero similar to lives in a video game. Extra balls are added to your remaining balls but are not immediately played allowing player rotation to be maintained.

That's cool and will make playing with a group more fun. Can you toggle it on or off in the settings?

I was hoping it might be a different mode though. Oh well. Can't complain. The code is pretty awesome as is.

1 week later
#3837 6 years ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

Hey guys just joined over the weekend w/ a RR. I noticed the same thing that the plexi wizard was never really lit. The LEDs glow dimly and do brighten a little when you hit the scoop but I wouldn't say it illuminates the wizard. Is this normal or is mine possibly bad also?

Make sure it is seated directly under the wizard. Mine pushed out a bit. You should be able to push it back in.

1 week later
#3869 6 years ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

For anyone interested, here is a B&A of the Pin Stadium kits installed on my machine.

Just posted this in your other thread, but I would love seeing a picture from the side to see how these are installed on the left, around the castle wall area.

Also, the level of brightness is adjustable, is that right?

#3870 6 years ago

Just noticed that on the Haunted Forest animation, there are little lightning flashes every time you hit the pops. What a cool little detail!

#3877 6 years ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

I wasn't sure which thread you would see. I posted here also. I took a couple pictures of the clearance and mounting you want to see near the castle walls for your RR WOZ

Thanks. Looks great.

3 weeks later
#3936 6 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Also, just so the information exists in the thread I heard that the issue why unbufered boards may have an issue is from static that can build up on the playfield in dry settings. The buffered boards absorb the static. JJP recommends using Wizards Mist n Shine wax / cleaner on their playfields partially because it is anti static.

This may explain why all of my problems started in November and have (hopefully) quieted down. I'll be using Wizards Mist n Shine on a regular basis during the dry winter months.

#3948 6 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Thought you guys would enjoy what I did with a WOZ display I bought on EBay! Built Multicade 60 in 1 Arcade machine using a WOZ display!! Enjoy

That looks awesome! But, just curious, why did you use a WOZ display rather than any old monitor? Is there something special about the WOZ displays?

#3950 6 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Nope nothing special.I was looking for more WOZ mods on EBay and came across this display for $125 ,,,figured that was a pretty good deal

That's pretty good. Isn't it like $500 purchased from JJP? I always figured it would be better to find one on your own if you needed it.

2 weeks later
#3974 6 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Started tracing cable to give the other end of it a wiggle. It hides in the umbilical with a million other wires.
Where does it come out on the other end?

It goes into a connector in the metal box on the input/output board. It is a connector that is positioned at a different angle than the others. I forget which one it is, but I believe it is on the bottom right. If you contact JJP, they can tell you the location for sure, or it may be in the manual.

1 week later
#3991 6 years ago

Best way to get crystal ball shot is to backhand it with two balls on the left flipper, which you can only do in MB. Otherwise, it is a crap shoot.

#3997 6 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

But the newest code has a penalty for doing that more than once, right? If I remember correctly the penalty is no-hold flippers the remainder of the ball - that's a pretty serious penalty!

The penalty is only if you do it 3 times in a row without hitting other switches in between, so I think it is something you can control.

Quoted from delt31:

Tips for hitting the "Collect" shot associated with the horses? I know you prob need to hold right flipper so you can shoot the ball in from left flipper but just can't do it. Am I missing something?

You need to be exact in your aim. It is the most difficult shot on the playfield. If you are cradling two balls on the right flipper, you can sometimes backhand one of the balls in with a quick flip.

#3999 6 years ago
Quoted from GorfFan:

I've got some SERIOUS comments about JJP and Automated Services. My game had several issues and JJP (Frank & Jack) decided to SEND A TECH to my home to fix the several mechanical issues at JJP's costs. The repair was $600, but my WoZ RR broke with one of the same issues two days later.
Mike (owner of Automated Services), Jack, and Frank (head of JJP production) quickly decided to SEND ME A NEW WoZ RR at their expense, PLUS pick up my old one, PLUS set up my new WoZ all at their expense!!
DID YOU GET ALL THAT? They;
Spent $600 to try and fix my game. (Labor has never been covered under warranty).
Picked up my old game
Delivered my new game WoZ and set it up
AND allowed me to keep game number 42 on my new WoZ!
I've had my new "2nd production" WoZ (has new LED light kit) for 6 months and no issues.
Why am I telling you all this, because Automated Services (the distributor I got the game from), and JJP understand and are VERY willing to help out their customers with legitimate issues. I will ONLY buy any new games from Mike at Automated Services! He delivered on every promise he made BEFORE I had to remind him!

Great story! Totally agree about Mike at Automated. I had a great experience working with him. Heck of a nice guy too. Nice to see JJP continuing to excel in the customer services department as well.

#4002 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Hey all.
I am pondering to buy a new Woz. I believe will be new (if I can swing it) but I am somewhat concerned with if there are some issues with Woz specifically does it break down more than a typical game.
I am not trying to start any trouble, I just was curious, also if I was buying new would that be better such as light board issues which I've hears so much about.
Also what the best way to add GI lighting, is there a kit that I can buy?
I'm off to play my friends RR pin hopefully I will decide to get WoZ (Other pin I'm considering is AFMr)
thanks

If you buy new, make sure you get the new 2.0 light boards. I think you'll be fine either way, but I've had some issues with the old light boards, as have a number of people. JJP has been great though about covering things under warranty.

Other than that, just the typical issues. WOZ is so big and heavy that I think things get shaken loose more in transit. I had a number of loose screws and switches needing adjustment when I first got it. Nothing too bad. Make sure you get the munchkinland cliffy protector. Otherwise, at some point, that upper playfield will get chipped.

As for GI lighting, the best pictures I've seen are those new Pinstadium light kits. I haven't seen one in person yet, but they look perfect for the WOZ. There are other kits available as well. Me, I just play it with the lights on.

#4012 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Regarding Woz, I'm assuming JJP will continue to make as many as needed for a while, but has anyone heard about RR begin to sell out? Doesn't matter to me, but always nice to know if you have a limited edition that actually sells out rather than for example TFLE or WWE LE that might never be sold near the limited number.

RR isn't a limited edition, I don't believe. I thought the only true limited edition was the original ECLE. Think of RR as a Premium with different colors and bling. I imagine they will make as many of them as they can sell, and I think sales are still going strong.

#4014 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

According to the web site

Well . . . maybe. I wonder if that "limited to 1500" thing has been thrown out the window. It is the most popular model. I could be wrong though.

#4021 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Was afraid of that need to move a few pins around, think I have just 86" on my main wall.

This is what I did with too low ceilings:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/60#post-3515712

#4027 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I'm debating can get:
-HUO RR (no Rad Cal) is 2 years old but low audit plays (like less than 100 games)
-Brand new RR in the box with Rad Cal built this year
------
whats the price difference, I mean how much more is the NIB with Rad Cal worth?

What it is worth all depends. Rad Cals look great but I'm not sure if they add to resale value. Personally, I think getting the new light boards plus 1 year warranty is worth quite a bit. Whether it is worth $500 or $1,000 all depends upon if anything fails in your pin. I've probably had at least a few hundred dollars worth of warranty work. I'm not sure if I had $500 worth, but it could happen.

#4033 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I'm a keeper, had (still have) Potc for 9-10 years.
As long as the game is to my liking I'll keep
I waited so long because I was unsure about Woz but likely I'm keeping it for long time

Definitely buy new then.

As for Rad Cals, I see you have a few pins in your collection. I would just ask whether WOZ will be at a prominent place on the end and you want the extra bling, or will it be in the middle of a line of pins in a dark room, in which case, you probably won't notice the difference. Rad Cals should really be just a personal choice. As I said, I'm not sure if there is enough data yet that it actually contributes to resale value of the pin.

#4057 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Was curious about the horse targets, if people worry about collecting them or does it just happen?

It's pretty hard to collect the horses on purpose. I usually let it happen but keep an eye on it. If I have a "win", I may think about collecting depending upon what else is going on in the game. Hitting the collect shot outright, I brick about 90% of the time. It is a really hard shot. But, sometimes I do go for it. If I'm in MB and can trap two balls on the right flipper, I can often do a quick backhand flip to collect.

1 week later
#4095 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Good to hear.
I'm sure Woz is not for everyone, we've all seen the for sale threads with brand new Woz 100 plays for sale. But lucky for me I didn't get one 2-3 years ago. I was quite on the fence it hasn't been until last year when I actually started to enjoy Woz when I played at a friends house. Now that I fully understand the rules I bet I'll love it even more in my house.
In the past I'd start EC multiiball (didn't know why) and I'd play EC MB (didn't know what to hit) so it wasn't enjoyable. I never knew of the Witch hurry up or Fireball Frenzy, never got a CB or Forrest mode. I've only touched on the rules in my previous play time. No wonder it didn't click with me and maybe others who sell after 100 plays didn't understand what they were looking for as far as how to play.

It's so hard getting a feel for this pin playing on location. It was meant to be owned. The nuances of the rules, how deep they are, how you can stack things together, etc. only really come out in a home environment. And when you have one of those games when everything works out, it feels amazing.

Now, stop talking about it and buy the darn thing already.

#4130 6 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I dont think shipping it back to JJP would be a wise option, there are going to be things that come up here and there (and you're not going to be able to ship it back every time). If you (or the pinball repair guy you referenced) are down to do a littler learning you can get things fixed up locally.
Like pinballinreno said, just break it down to a list and description of the problems and take care of it one at a time.

Not to mention that things will shake loose during transport (like connectors and switches) and potentially create other issues you have to track down.

#4131 6 years ago
Quoted from altan:

Sorry for the simple question, but googling or searching Pinside brings up a zillion false positives.
What exactly does the crystal ball do for gameplay?
Also, I'm about 6'4" and I had to bend down to see the ball's video. Is it adjustable?
... Altan

As noted, the images on the crystal ball do nothing for gameplay. However, just in case you were asking about the crystal ball modes, each one adds a ball, creates 2x playfield scoring and messes with your game in some way. Love those modes!

#4137 6 years ago

I'm 5'10" and can see the crystal ball fine. I stood on my tiptoes as an experiment and can see the ball fine. I think it is how you stand. If I press myself all the way up to the glass and stand on my tiptoes, that's when I start having trouble.

1 month later
#4238 6 years ago

Just had one of those great games where everything worked out! Started by stacking Munchkin Frenzy, Rescue MB, Emerald city MB, Lights On CB, and four horses to match for extra Munchkin points. Bonus ended up being over 400,000. Then, to follow that up, I melted the witch for the first time in a while. Man, I love this game when it all comes together!

#4240 6 years ago

Just realized that in the second stage of There's No Place Like Home, the shots you have to hit make perfect sense. The screen shows Professor Marvel looking into the crystal ball, which is one of the shots. And, the actor who plays Professor Marvel is the Wizard (sorry for the spoiler ), and the other shot is the throne room. I love these little touches that they put into the game. Really well thought out.

#4256 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

This is totally my reasoning why I don't have a Woz as I've read and heard that people would like the new 2.0 system. I've passed on many pre-owned Woz and thinking about the NIB yet the price is much higher.
Also, I was concerned about the GI on WOZ. I play in dark or semi dark and even if I did leave the lights on for WoZ, my room is not well lit some people say it needs extra GI for this environment bit some people say the extra GI doesn't look good. I often wonder after all this time why JJP has not increased the GI capacity on the newer games and could even be adjustable so if people like less or more then can set it up as they like it.

Pinstadium has a really cool looking kit. I believe they said one of the inspirations was WOZ. You can adjust the level of light as well. I haven't bought one, but was thinking about it.

In short, there are plenty of solutions to the GI issue. Don't let that hold you back from getting one of the greatest pins ever made.

#4259 6 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

question - can you get the monkey lock by shooting left OR right or is it just left?

I always find the left orbit shot to be incredibly tight. I'm always amazed when I miraculously seem to nail it. More often than not, I hit a pop and the ball bounces around.

#4307 6 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Pulling the glass is part of the operation pinball machines.
If anything just to replace a broken rubber or as simple as retrieving a hung ball.
In my case, I pull the glass often enough just to clean the inside of the glass or to regularly apply new wax.
So pulling the glass is imperative to the proper operation of the games.

Agreed. I'm not sure how you can avoid taking the glass off long term. It seems like I'm taking the glass off of at least one of my 4 pins once a week or more. Always something that needs at least a little adjustment.

#4310 6 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

Agreed .

Agreed.I have a large jack that I put under Pinball just in front of the bottom speaker I can raise the height of the front of machine not optimal but innovative & functional.I can remove the glass at any time. It is just a pain. That is not the focus of my quarry however . Since (Both) of you responded and have WOZ spread your knowledge and help me make an informed decision to my specific question. I want to know what the opinion of WOZ owners who do not have a 2.0 light boards what there maintenance reliability has been like . I here good things about ECWOZ/ RR were no light board issues and I here bad issues with light board issues. Thanks for feedback to this specific question .

I've had to replace a lot of the GI light boards all under warranty in my RR. I believe I had mostly unbuffered 1.x boards. It was during the winter months, and from what I've heard, dry air and static can be an issue for the non-buffered boards. I'm kind of worried about the change in season coming up. I hope I don't go through another round, but we'll see. I've also had to replace WOZ6 which is one of the main boards. JJP has been great, but I can see myself getting frustrated if this is a recurring issue every year. I do think it is a bit of a crap shoot. Some people have very little issues, some people have a lot. You should take that into consideration when deciding what version of WOZ you want to get.

#4319 6 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

Been playing WOZ a lot more lately, There are a few items I'm still not 100% on.
Why does the ball stop near the change lanes sometimes and not others. ( or how do you get it to stop back there?)
any tips on the ball save post? seems like 1/4 of the time I misjudge, it hits the post wrong and goes down the middle anyway.
Not used to playing games with posts I guess.
To collect the horses I know you have to shoot under the right flipper, but it's a near impossible shot in single ball play. backhanding Is easier but still leads to a drain more often then not trying to get the ball in the right position. just curious what other WOZ people do.
in weak flippers mode is it supposed to be possible to hit the munchkin ramp? should I increase flipper strength in the setting?
lastly is the wizard mode endless?
and in fireball mode the shots that are blinking red and blue are good/bad shots right?
thanks

The ball stops at the change lanes to signify you made an orbit hurry up. Otherwise, it goes through.

The center post needs to be hit exactly dead center. Otherwise, drain city.

The collect horse shot is the most difficult shot in the game. Still, sometimes I get lucky.

You can hit the ramp with weak flippers but it takes a dead on shot.

Not sure what you mean about wizard mode.

For fireball frenzy, blue shots good, yellow bad. Red and blue sounds like you stacked a Munchkin mode with it.

#4328 6 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

Pinballs are not magnetized according to the paper clip test but I did notice that my capture Dorothy magnet sits below the PF while the munchkin land magnet sits flush. Is this normal? I assume I still have a problem with the magnet either way.

That magnet is way too low. You need to raise it. It also looks like there is some wear at the edge from not being flush with the playfield. Perhaps a cliffy will help prevent further wear.

#4337 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Super Glue the ends together.

Wow, I've never heard of that tip before.

1 week later
#4380 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Officially in the club.
I can't believe how nice it is.
I'm the second owner but it's a only 6 months old, has 900 plays but looks 'like new'.
Can't believe how beautiful it is.
I've played Woz before but never looked up close lifted the PF the supports are so nice, JJP really does it right.
It's the most expensive pin I've owned but looks to be worth every penny. I got a great deal so it was not much more than what I sold my STLE for, but it feels much nicer in every way.
I tried to capture a picture of the RadCal in the third picture.
I only played a couple games, still learning the rules but just spectacular.

Nice! Congrats man. Finally!

#4393 6 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

so I might have my first light issue. All of a sudden no rainbow target lights and no light for lion. Any suggestions to check before I call JJP for a potential replacement board (I guess?). Thanks
Looks like LED 1 through 34 based on individual led test. Starts with rainbow letters.

Reseat the connectors to those boards and the board upstream in the chain. Also make sure the shaft on the munchkinland flipper isn't hitting those wires. If you still have an issue, call JJP.

#4400 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I have something happen that seems wrong. I had a ball locked (via winged monkey) but my game ended and the ball was not released, so the next game went to lock a ball into the castle and instead of locking one and releasing one, I got both balls in play and no ball locked.
Is this something wrong or something I need to change in the menu?
I did press start during the match sequence so maybe it would have released the ball IDK?

If you hit start during the match sequence, it will start a new game without releasing locked balls. That said, the game should still release the castle one before locking another so something seems off. Probably just a minor adjustment, but I'm not sure what. Others will hopefully know.

Quoted from rai:

I am really enjoying this pin, it's faster than I had expected. It can be stop and go but there are times that the ball really moves and even in it's "slower" times there it's still not floaty at all.
What settings should I consider?
I have set everything to medium and TNPLH to easy meaning hit any rainbow target to start (not each specific letter) and progress is held, set Toto up to 3 times if successful.
Set ball save to 7 seconds and tilt warning to 2 per ball.

I started out setting TNPLH rainbow targets to easy, but have since upped the difficulty. I enjoy the challenge of having to hit each target. I've only completed TNPLH a half dozen times in probably a thousand games. It is hard, and I like it that way. Save Toto is much more doable -- at least the first one.

#4411 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

what is the throne room multi ball it looks like (from the rules) as ECMB, however I didn't have that ready to go, so does it just jump to ECMB with auto launch balls?

The throne room gives random awards, one of which is to start ECMB. That award is more rare than others.

#4413 6 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

So,
I'm guessing that you have your machine set to 3 balls per game and the kick ass game described above all happened because of the the 3rd ball.
Throne room Multiball is a gimme on your third ball when your first two balls are not good.
Its like the machine is saying to you:
"I know your first two balls were pretty awful but trust me, once you get to know me your are gonna love me.
And to prove it to you here is a multiball.
See?
Told you I am a great game.
Of course I take bills "
So many of my epic games all happened because of 3rd ball Throne Room Multiball (3BTRM)

Is that right? I never noticed that.

#4422 6 years ago
Quoted from EricHadley:

I picked up the WOZ today, so excited as its a fun game! I went into the light test menu and all but 4 lights are 100% perfect. 4 of the GI lights won't do white, instead are blue. Any thoughts? Do I need to replace these 4?

Congrats on the game! Yeah, you need some replacement GI boards.

#4433 6 years ago

I used to have the no lights issue from time to time but don't believe I have since updating to the latest code. Is your code up to date? Has anyone had this happend with 6.5?

2 weeks later
#4445 6 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

When are we going to get the sparkly lighting effects back???

Unfortunately, they’re probably pretty busy now, but yeah, I hope they do a quick fix soon.

#4453 6 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Likely your skill shot stand target is too sensitive and needs to be gapped.

Agreed. Also, yes, lowering the coil power slightly on the ball eject can help with rejects. It’s counterintuitive but sometimes a hard hit out can rattle off of stuff and fall back down.

2 weeks later
#4478 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I’ve just started to experience this the ball lock will allow two balls to be released instead of one, guess that’s an adjustment setting and finally just started to have the monkey come down to capture the ball even if it’s not locked on the magnet (ball never made it to the top magnet).

You can control the timing of the arm that releases the balls to fix the release issue.

The monkey will start to come down when you hit the orbit. If the ball doesn’t make it to the magnet, the monkey will go back up. If that’s what you’re experiencing, it’s normal as long as the monkey still captures the ball when it makes it all the way up.

#4497 6 years ago

My drop target switch was missing a tiny, tiny, tiny screw that caused it to loosen and no longer work. It was an easy adjustment once I found a replacement tiny, tiny, tiny screw.

#4502 6 years ago
Quoted from rai:

wow that's too hard, I'm going to need to up my game.

I think very few people are capable of completing Rescue MB. I’m not one of them.

#4522 6 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

When you finish Lloyd give us an idea on how long it took you, so I can x4 and know how long it will take me.

I was thinking the same thing. I would love to know how long this takes all in.

#4543 6 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I also notic ed they don't line up right under the acrylic . It is placed all the way forward against the bracket and the leds are somewhat behind the wizard acrylic! I'm hoping they have a better replacement and this is a mistake

Mine doesn’t line up perfectly, but mine is definitely green.

#4546 6 years ago

Sorry. It wasn’t a replacement. I meant my original one never lined up perfectly.

#4566 6 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Got my light issue resolved, but now I have something new.
When playing a two player game, and a ball is already locked in the Witch's castle, when the other player has the ball grabbed by the monkey and it's going up to the castle, the single door won't open to allow the locked ball to be released.
But when I start castle multiball, the door opens just fine and let's the ball out. Anyone ever have this happen? What should I do?

What happens to the ball that is going up?

#4569 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Is the door actually trying to open or is it that the force of a second ball dropping up there makes the door move a bit? It's very strange that it would open for castle MB but not when a second ball is going up. It should actually be releasing the ball once the ball is about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up.
I would check the switch behind the door... if it's not registering the ball, or maybe the ball gets moved to where it's no longer on the switch up there somehow I could see this happening. Since the door opens for other events I don't think it would be an issue with the door. My money is on the switch.
The only part that doesn't fit is that if the switch wasn't working you would think it would get stuck there on the first ball and not launch your new ball.... but if it's flaky enough to register on drop but then while sitting there get settled to where the ball no longer is holding the switch on I could see it thinking there is no ball up there.

This is a good theory. Also, is there another switch or sensor so it knows when the monkey is 3/4 of the way up? I’m not sure, but if there is, a failure of that could cause the same behavior.

#4578 6 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

To Buy or Not to buy . I read the last (7) pages of this thread . The good news a lot of support on this thread .The bad . It look like it is needed . I am lousy technician. There seem many (issues) with this WOZ pinball from what I just read over the last (7) pages . It is my "Grail" pinball. Not sure it is a fit for a person that is just not technically inclined.

You own 13 pins so you must have some technical ability. I’m not that tech savvy either, and I own a WOZ. I’ve had a few issues, but JJP tech support is second to none. Get your grail pin and enjoy. Plenty of help will be avaialable if you need it.

#4582 6 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

Honestly It is when I have to start to take off mini playfields or lots of upper playfield part that I fall short. My TZ mini playfield have had the center insert light socket burnt out for years. My StarTrek LE STERN put one POP bumper LED half way under the Vengeance Ship Mech . I can live with those issues But WOZ to rebuild a flipper or change the back sling . Castle Door stuck . It may never happen but as many say on here and it is true " Its Pinball" . I guess I am intimidated by WOZ . But I could do it if I put my mind to it . And it was not in my main pinball room were my pinballs are so close together 5 on one wall 4 on the opposite wall . I have to put it in my so called Dining room to have room to work . Its gotten like I am pack rat . My AFM is part way into a closet I took the door off . That LED conversion was hard to do I was like an octopus . I apologize for the non WOZ photos .

I hear you. I get all sweaty and nervous when I have to do something significant like remove a mini playfield. The one thing I will say is that you absolutely need the Munchkin land cliffy protector for the edge. This not only requires removing the miniplayfield but also drilling some holes into it. It made me very, very nervous and taxed all of my handy pinball skills. But believe me, if I could get through it, anyone can. I also find the more I do and see that it is ok in the end, the more confident I get.

1 week later
#4613 6 years ago

Battle the Wicked Witch has to be one of the most intense multiballs ever. Every time I get to it, I suck in my breath, my heart starts to race, my hands get sweaty, and my focus sharpens immensely. Love the rules, sounds and lights! Great fun!

#4615 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Even having had the game for a couple years now and melting her several times now it’s still by far my favorite mode in pinball. A great rush!

I still do a little dance every time I melt her. And, more often, I curse to myself when I fail.

#4651 6 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

It’s for a family. I worry about woz’s difficulty as it wasn’t the easiest for me to pickup when I played it and I’m far from a great player. My wife loves the look of woz and the theme and the vote is split down the middle on DI and Woz.

You can always get the pindemption dongle to have different ways for them to play, like timed games with unlimited balls. It is $200 extra, but can be worth it for younger players. I have it, and don't use it much anymore. But, I've had visitors who are unfamiliar with pinball, and it works great for them.

#4674 6 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

This game is amazing. The immersion, depth and aesthetic beauty of the machine is unmatched.
Question though. Is my plunger ridiculously weak or is something else amiss? I can’t plunge straight through the orbit. Best I can get is into the top lanes and into the top pops.

If you search my posts in this thread, I have a picture where I put some black sticky felt in the shooter lane to help with this. If you can’t find it, let me know and I’ll find it tomorrow.

#4675 6 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Anybody else have this issue? I will get a reject and or ball will get stuck there from munchkin protector. Suggestions?

Your Munchkin playfield is too low. There are three screws that hold it down. Loosen all three — or at least the lower right one — by a few turns.

#4682 6 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Well, game lasted 3 days till the light boards died. 3/4 if the play field is a strobe light mess now. Gamble on old game failed

Likely just the upstream most board is out. It will affect everything downstream. The manual has detailed instructions for what to do.

#4728 6 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Im also still having issues with the sound. The rca/mini jack issue seems to be whats going on. I lose callouts and low end and I have to mess with the rca jacks and mini jack to get it back.

I just had an issue with losing callouts and the low end of sound. Also, the total volume was much quieter. I'm not sure what you mean by the rca / mini jack, but I had reseated all the audio cables, and it didn't help. I contacted JJP, and they gave me spot on advice. First, on the sound board, which is in the middle right of the metal box in the cabinet, reseat the pink cable. If that doesn't work, see if you have a noise filter that will be attached to the right of the board, cable tied on the right side. It looks like a black box, and one jack goes in and another comes out before going to the board. Bypass the noise filter. If that fixes it, just keep the noise filter bypassed. They told me it was not necessary and was removed from later models.

By the way, this is just another example of excellent JJP support. I thought something major was wrong with my sound. Playing around with things myself didn't fix it. A quick ticket in to JJP, and I received the exact answer within half a day. Awesome as always!

#4741 6 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

one maybe issue I'm having (not sure if it's part of the code). In the destroy the wicked witch mode, sometimes out of the blue it stops letting you hold the flippers. It's like that no hold flipper mode, but it stays like that even when you are out of that mode, until you loose your ball. The witch said something both times, not sure if it's a coincidence "you can't control my ball".
It's happened twice so far. The only reason I don't think it's part of the code is because its so random (first time I hit the ball shot 3 times in a row, second time I think I hit a red shot twice, not in a row) and it stays active even when you are no longer in any modes.

If you hit the crystal ball three times in a row without hitting any other switch, you get no hold flippers for the rest of the ball as a penalty. Otherwise, you can just cradle two balls on the left flipper and hit the crystal ball over and over.

#4773 6 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Glad you guys like it... check_switch_26 is responsible for most of this one, especially the sound and old mobo fixes.

Awesome update! Thanks for it.

Not to be too finicky, but I noticed that the score now displays over the graphics in Save Toto mode so that part of the images including the hourglass are covered. I'm guessing its a constant battle -- fix one thing, disturb something else. But, I thought I would mention it if you have a list going for one final bug removal.

#4777 6 years ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

Darn it. Yes, there was a fix related to the score display because it WASN'T showing in places where it was supposed to be. I'll take a look. Thanks for the report.
--Ted

Thanks to all you guys for your continual commitment to code polish and bug fixes, especially this long after release. You are really unique in the current pinball community. It is one of the reasons why my next NIB purchase will almost definitely be a JJP.

#4810 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

== Version 6.60 December 12, 2017 ==
* Allow main screen scale/offset adjustment on all monitor types
=== OS

TaylorVA Could it be an settings adjustment in the new code?

#4827 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

A couple months in now you may be able to see the first signs of the need. Look carefully at the paint/clear along the edge of the munchkin playfield. For me it was most prevelant on the edge around the ramp entrance. Dollars to dougnuts you have chipping there by now or else you’re quite lucky.

Even if you’re lucky for now, it is just a matter of time. Better be safe than sorry. It is well worth the investment to get the munchkinland cliffy.

#4843 6 years ago

Just updated to 6.61. Glad to see the score display for Toto fixed. That and the reintroduction of the twinkly lights has me happy to save him when I can. Thanks check_switch_26 for the quick fix.

#4857 6 years ago

Oh no, I just realized that in the new code, the SPECIAL animation is gone. I have SPECIAL set to extra ball, and when I hit it, I got the regular extra ball animation but not the much cooler SPECIAL animation that I used to get. I loved that SPECIAL animation. . . .

(Perhaps I need to turn off extra ball to get it. If so, it would be worth it.)

#4861 6 years ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

Yes, set SPECIAL to POINTS to see the SPECIAL animation. That change was made in 6.50 back in June. The game now shows FREE GAME or EXTRA BALL, as appropriate, for those settings.
--Ted

Got it. Thanks!

1 week later
#4896 6 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Welcome to the hobby. If the numbers match (I believe with the last digit of your score) you get a free game. Fun to have happen on location, but a snoozer at home on free play. Happy new years.

How can you say the match is a snoozer at home? Every time it happens, I have a mini heart attack thinking something hit and cracked my screen.

#4907 6 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Well, I had walk away from the ruby red today. Less than 200 plays and had the upper playfield chipping. All the 2.0 games I have looked at have had this issue. I have friends with 2013 run games with no chipping. This appears to be a issue at this point. I have passed on 3 now with the chipping issue. I guess I will look for NIB and add cliffy and protection immediately

It is just a crap shoot. That area is prone to chipping on all of the editions if not protected.

#4921 6 years ago
Quoted from Frogman:

You're probably right and I should have thought about that. This is my first NIB machine and for some reason I didn't think of it in the same context as the older ones in my collection since there are so many settings and a lot of newer technology....but many mechanisms are the same. Thanks for responding.

WOZ is so heavy that I think a lot of things need adjustment after delivery. I had a few leaf switch and loose switch issues myself.

#4951 6 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Closer to 1m every day....

Nice. I've had the game for 1.75 years now, and I've only gotten over 1m once. But when I did, it was amazing!

#4955 6 years ago

Just realized that I was the first post on the 100th page of this thread. Should have said something more epic.

#4974 6 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Is there a PAPA/Bowen video for this game yet? I see the pre-release one,but I cant find an updated one.

This is just as good. It takes you through all the rules and modes leading up to SOTR.

#4987 6 years ago
Quoted from HarryReimer:

Yeah, I suck at pinball too... I got close, but the software update wiped it.

Who said I sucked at pinball?!!!

I'm at least average . . . .

2 weeks later
#5017 6 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Had an issue with castle exit wire form optics not working. I traced the issue to the orange wire on main optics board connector came out of the pigtail ..easy fix
At the time i noticed castle doors are now opening with only one impact...not the usual three....check all connectors. All good.... any thoughts ??????

Maybe the switch got too closely gapped. I never examined the switch there so I don’t know what type it is. But perhaps something to check.

1 week later
#5083 6 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Installed pin stadium (GI color changing with UV flash)... have had about 1.5 weeks... decided it’s not floating my boat. Going to pull it and put it up for sale, if anyone might be interested. Still have shipping tube, etc.

What specifically did you not like? Just curious as I was contemplating buying a set once upon a time.

#5089 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

How many make this pin eaiser? Im finding it very difficult and with the deep ruleset im not getting anywhere lol. I have it playing very fast (jacked way up ) on factory settings with no replay extra balls . Thinking of just moving the outlanes in as they are like a vaccum. Don't look like much ajustment there so not sure if it will help much. Whats everyone else doing to make it better to play?

Agree with adding a ball saver. I also used to award myself with an extra ball on getting 100,000 points. Now that I’m better at playing, I took that extra ball away. But it helped at the time.

#5101 6 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Took the middle STDM prevention post out.

I actually think that might help me. Too often, I think the post will save my ball when it doesn’t.

#5126 6 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Well now I'm officially in the club. Box said it was RR 75th number 182. Built on Dec 22 2017, but I couldn't find the sticker for the apron anywhere on the box or in the packaging. I guess I'll see if they can send me one. Game played almost perfect out of the box. Only issue is the munchkin ball release will let two go at once. So I'll have to tweak that. I still haven't received my cliffys so I put mylar around the edge of the munchkin playfield for now. Game is incredibly well built and just beautiful to look at. I cant get over it. Just awesome. Well done JJP.
Now on to a few pics.

Congrats!

The timing of the Munchkin arm is easily adjustable in settings.

#5134 6 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The numbers relate to how long the bar stays up.
So smaller numbers to stop a ball from rolling out.

Yes though sometimes if you go too short, the arm will come down in the middle of the first ball and the second ball will hit it knocking both out. I always find it to be a bit of trial and error.

1 week later
#5161 6 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

Cross posted in Rob’s powder coating thread.
Gave my standard a little upgrade.

Hey! That’s cheating!

Just kidding. Looks great!

#5166 6 years ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

So my letter "N" in rainbow has gone a little off color and flakey. Game is 14 months new, has less than 500 plays...weak! New light board is $239...seriously! Or I can send mine in for a replacement one for $139, probably a referb...complete crap. Anyone replaced one of the light cells before or know where to get one? I have felt that JJP takes good care of their customers but feel butt hurt on this one.

Have you called JJP? They have helped me past stated warranty before.

#5211 6 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

No, I was referring to Automated Services in CT, a JJP distributor. Lucky for you, it sounds like your WOZ didn't come from them.

I've had nothing but good experiences with Automated. They were very professional, timely and provided prompt solutions to a couple of issues I had after my purchase.

2 weeks later
#5266 6 years ago

Well, I finally decided to change my battery today and followed the instructions in the manual. As usual, I typically find things about 10x harder than the average pinsider. I put a strip of masking tape on the battery to lift it out but couldn't figure out how to pry the battery from its holder. As I was trying, I failed to notice the fast whirling fan blade to my left and sliced my finger. Luckily, it was a clean slice, and I only bled a little over my boards.

Anyway, I finally did it. Here are some tips:

If you have the playfield lifted all the way up, you will be at an awkward angle. Instead, have the playfield pulled out to the second position on the service rails.

There is a little metal tab on the bottom of the battery holder (side closest to the player). Gently, pull that back, and the battery will lift up with the tape without you needing to pry it up (read the manual for what to do with the tape).

Mind the fan blade! It stings.

#5268 6 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Did you change the battery with the game on? Or does the fan run when the machine is powered down? I would recommend turning the game off before attempting any repairs.

You have to change the battery with the game on otherwise you lose all your settings and the game won’t boot.

#5270 6 years ago
Quoted from Georgeh:

how often do u have to do this . I didn't know batteries had to be changed or even where they are

They recommend every 3 years. If the battery gets too low, your game won't boot, and you will lose the settings.

There are instructions in section E in the manual. The instructions are pretty good, but I still had a bit of difficulty as I often do. But, don't sweat it. I'm unusual in that way.

#5272 6 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Them instructions don't tell you there is a clip on the side of the holder facing the player and you just need to use the tape to make sure you don't drop the battery and mess up a part in the board I was having fits before I realized this fact about the release.

Yep, that was one of the reasons I wanted to post -- to let others know about the clip. Knowing about it ahead of time would have saved me needless stress.

#5321 6 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

I finally cracked a million today after owning the game 4 months....not a big deal to most here but I was pumped

I’ve only done it once. 1.5 mill is still my GC score, but haven’t cracked a million since.

#5338 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinballgoddess:

This is my hi score this morning after 3 1/2 years of playing.
Game set at 20 sec ball save, narrow outlanes, 3 ball game, extra balls enabled.
code 6.61 reserve player mode, locking bar set to virtual.
The game was 1 hour 10 mins. I know its not the highest score ever but its the best I have ever done!
I play it every night, I love this game!

Wow! That’s a great score!

#5357 6 years ago

If it was the switch, wouldn't the ball fail to kick out?

1 week later
#5382 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

Played WOZ for 2 weeks. Currently my highest score is about 550K. 3 ball game, Home + Easy setting, narrowed both outlanes, 7 seconds ball saving.
I only did Wicked Witch once and didn't win...
For me, the hardest parts are ... get into crystal ball, Dorothy rescue multi ball (I also moved the castle post but it seems not helping much).
I really love this game.
I am thinking to get a preowned The Hobbit because I am not satisfied with just one pinball machine

Just a tip, but an easy way to get the crystal ball is during multiball when you have two balls cradled on the left flipper — a quick flip will send one to the crystal ball. It also helps to stack because the crystal ball modes give 2x playfield scoring, so really good if you can strategically time it with a MB and perhaps a Munchkin mode.

Also, beating the wicked witch is one of the greatest feelings in pinball. It is rare but definitely doable. You wouldn’t want it to be too easy.

#5386 6 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Funny you say that because I have a better chance of Melting the Witch than making that cradled backhand flip to the Crystal Ball. Not that I get to Melt her often but I have a really hard time getting two balls cradled on the left and when I do I always miss the CB shot.

I suppose it depends upon the individual pin, the level you have it set out, and how else you have dialed it in. But, I think most are able to readily backhand the crystal ball shot with two balls cradled. In fact, they added a penalty into the code to prevent people from doing it over and over. If you do it three times in a row without hitting any other switches, you get no hold flippers for the rest of the ball. I find it useful to actually use this techique during battle the wicked witch. I'll get at least two shots on a target by hitting the CB and then go for another switch.

#5397 6 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Yeah, never meant to imply that the shot's not doable for most people - it just isn't for me. Then again I'm more of a flail like crazy multiball player, I have a horrible habit of looking at the balls that are up the playfield and subsequently drilling them with a ball from the flippers.

I hear you. I'm by no means an expert at multi ball, but I do try to get the balls under control when I can. I find it critical in battle the wicked witch. That wizard mode is too dangerous with the short ball saver and only two balls to have them flying around uncontrollably.

4 weeks later
#5420 5 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I'd like to finish this game someday, so I can move on to another long game like LOTR or pirates. Who knows maybe it'll never happen , but I'm gonna keep trying damnit!!

I think most humans will never see the end of the game no matter how much they play. I know I won't.

#5426 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Need your input fellow WOZ owners. I have have gone back and forth about getting one for over a year and finally going to do it. I have 2 great options near me:
1) ECLE - 2015 older boards around 800 plays seller asking 8250
2) Ruby Red 2017 model, flawless 250 plays seller asking 9000.
Both seem high on price what would you guys recommend ? Both machine and price thank you!

Hi there. Just want to mention that for $9000, you can get a NIB RR. No need to buy used. You will have the comfort of a fresh warranty and can probably get the 2.0 boards.

#5435 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Thanks for all the input guys, so the lowest he will go on the ECLE is 7500. I’d be willing to do it for 7250
Question, where can I get a nib for 9k?? If I could find that price I’d be all about it... cheapest I have seen is 9500+shipping

Call around. I bought mine from Automated Services 2 years ago and got a very good price, right around that. I have a Dialed In coming tomorrow from them.

#5437 5 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

Finally made it to the Melt The Witch mini mode had it for just as long as the ball save lasts zero hits a quick death but finally starting to make some progress on this game - the darn rescue multiple mode is definitely my weekness on getting there practice practice practice - what a min rush

Melt the Witch is tough! Short ball save, only two balls, tense music. It is a great mode though. I make it there every once and a while and melt the witch maybe 10% of the time. When I do, it is a great feeling and a really cool ending and victory mode. It is meant to be tough — to make the reward all that much more rewarding.

#5463 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey guys anyone have a recommendation on the best dealer to order a woz RR from? The best price I have found is 9500.00 + shipping from automated. But I keep hearing I can get one for 9k but where?

Well, maybe you can’t get one for $9k anymore. Prices may have gone up over the last two years. I got mine for $9k from Automated plus a small fee for set up and delivery. But I was local to them and this was a couple years ago.

#5476 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The instructions that come with are very good.

Will these be posted somewhere? I would love to read them before deciding whether to purchase the upgrade.

That said, I kind of doubt I will pull the trigger on this. Just reading your description made me start to sweat.

#5478 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

I just got my wizard of oz rr about 3 weeks ago and have some small issues.
1. The sound has a chronic buzzing/humming noise when it starts up and a faint one when playing. Any way to fix this?
2. The vuk on the left takes 3 or 4 tries to pop the ball out. Is this a true defect that is common or do i do an adjustment to the vertical up kick power?
3. The ball gets stuck on the right inlane sometimes on the metal wire that sticks up. Just live with it or is there a fix?
4. What does the rescue lock award do for you? I believe i have gotten it randomly from throne room, but i cant remember.
Thanks for the help.

#1 You can check to see if you have a noise filter attached. If not, you can ask JJP for one or buy one. Some people have also had luck rerouting wires, but I’m not sure how. There is a post about it somewhere in this lengthy thread.

#2 In the settings, you can individually adjust coil power. Up that one incrementally until it has enough juice.

#3 Maybe attach a picture. If it is sticking on the switch, I think you can probably adjust the height somewhat from under the playfield, perhaps by bending it slightly. Someone else will know for sure. I haven’t had to adjust a lane switch.

#4 Rescue multiball, qualified by the castle playfield, is a 2 ball MB unless you lock additional balls before it starts. The random throne room award just awards you an extra lock so an additional ball at start.

#5485 5 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I have them, PM me your e-mail address and I'll send them to you.

Thanks! Just did.

#5530 5 years ago

I have to take my castle playfield off this weekend for some maintenance. For those who have done it, how long to take off and put back on? Thanks.

#5533 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

First time, hour, hour and a half. 4th time - 20 or 30 minutes.
LTG : )

Thanks. Reminds me of the Ikea chairs I assembled a few weekends ago. The first one took twenty minutes, the sixth took five.

#5534 5 years ago

Oops sorry. Is that just to take off, Lloyd, or to both take off and put back on?

#5537 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The whole process. Off, back on, potty and beer break.
LTG : )

Got it. Thanks. Not to mention taking the time to clean and wax the orbit while the playfield is off.

#5556 5 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I believe 800 for a “limited time”.
On light boards, anyone have any GI boards start no longer showing correct colors without impacting anything downstream? Would that be just a bad Led module? Going to replace the whole little board anyway, just curious.

That's happened to me quite a bit. I've had to replace the GI boards.

#5564 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

I got this from jjp to reduce buzzing/humming noise on machine. Can anyone tell me Where I install this or a link to instructions on how to install it thanks

There is an audio input cable into the metal box in your cabinet. You unplug that, plug it into the noise filter you just bought, and then plug that into the input in the box. I forget which cable it is, but if it is not obvious, the manual will probably say.

#5568 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Unplug the speaker cable from the back of the computer.
Plug the speaker cable into the isolator.
Plug the other end of the isolator in the jacks on the computer that you unplugged the speaker cable from.
No tools needed its a 5 min install but well worth it.
My ECLEWOZ came with one factory installed.
I had to add one to my Hobbit.

I had to take mine out because it broke and I couldn’t get sound. JJP said they were causing trouble and stopped adding them to the games. But they still might work for some. I don’t really have a problem with buzz.

#5570 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I imagine that if they were failing, they would suggest removing them.
But that would mean that it was an inferior quality GLI. Really the device should last a lifetime as its only a wire with a ferrite core.

I really don’t know much about them other than it was fine for a while, then I wasn’t getting sound, JJP told me to remove it, and I got sound again. I thought they told me they removed them from more recent games for performance issues, but I could be mistaken. Either way, something failed in mine.

#5582 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I imagine that if they were failing, they would suggest removing them.
But that would mean that it was an inferior quality GLI. Really the device should last a lifetime as its only a wire with a ferrite core.

Quoted from Nokoro:

I really don’t know much about them other than it was fine for a while, then I wasn’t getting sound, JJP told me to remove it, and I got sound again. I thought they told me they removed them from more recent games for performance issues, but I could be mistaken. Either way, something failed in mine.

Just found my old email from JJP about this. JJP said they were in early games but got pulled because they were causing problems like mine when the noise would go out. JJP felt they were causing more problems then they were solving. That’s all I know.

#5583 5 years ago

Dear Helpful Pinsiders:

I’m trying to take my castle playfield off, and I’m stuck early in the process. I can’t for the life of me get the 12 pin connector to come apart. I’m even gripping both ends with those mats you use to open jars, but even then I can’t get enough force. I’m afraid of breaking it or ripping the wires out. (Don’t worry, I’m not pulling by the wires.) Is there a trick to this that I’m missing.

Yours truly,

Stuck In A Basement

#5585 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It can be really tight.
Similar connectors on cars shrink with age and are difficult to budge.
Make sure you release the latch on the connector completely or bend it high with a screwdriver or cut it off if it's misshapen.
On some I have had to hold one side with channel locks and wiggle the other side until it breaks free.

Thanks! Got it. With a couple of wrenches.

#5586 5 years ago

I’m stepping away from my castle disassembly for a while. I ran out of time, and disconnecting that connector raised my blood pressure too much. I’ll have to meditate and come back to it next weekend when I have a more empty day.

#5621 5 years ago

Hi all. I have both a pat on the back and a request for advice.

First, the pat on the back goes to . . . ME . . . and all of YOU . . . who offered advice prior to and during my castle playfield removal. As some may remember, I tried this last weekend, got stuck removing some connectors, ran out of time, and raised my blood pressure too much. I decided, wisely, to put it aside and wait a week before trying again. This time, I was smarter and more calm. I did it!!! I broke it into two parts: removal and then adjustment and reassembly. Taking a break in the middle also helped me stay calm. So, thanks everyone! I feel more confident and am glad that I finally did it.

Now, for the request for advice. While putting my main playfield back in, it wouldn't quite go, so I did like all good repair techs do and tried to shove it a little harder. It still wouldn't go, and I finally looked under again and saw a cable hanging down that was getting caught. Turns out the cable was the power (I believe) cable to GI board 13, and probably due to my shoving, the little tab holding it in place snapped off. I can plug it back in, but it is a bit loose. Everything is working, and the lights are all on, so I am wondering whether I just leave it alone, and if vibrates loose at some point, I just plug it back in. Or, do I do something about it. I can probably add a hot glue bead to keep it in, but that might be hard to remove if I ever need to replace it. Or, I could just order a new one. I think they are only $26 or so. I'm tempted to just leave it alone until it becomes a problem. However, I thought I would ask if there are any other hacks to get that to stick in better.

Thanks!

#5623 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A little hot glue on one edge of the connectier will hold it just fine. I do it all the time on electronics that I ship. It comes off easy with a small screwdriver.
Order a new one for a spare if it gets annoying later on.

Will do. Thanks!

#5625 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A little hot glue on one edge of the connectier will hold it just fine. I do it all the time on electronics that I ship. It comes off easy with a small screwdriver.
Order a new one for a spare if it gets annoying later on.

Hot glue worked perfectly. Thanks again.

#5633 5 years ago
Quoted from boomgopinball:

I'm having the same issue. I think someone else here too ( Nokoro just went through taking it off).
Could also be the set screw for the door. Hoping to find time to fix it... This Summer..ha!
First step take it off and look around. Any luck its something loose and not broken.

I will attest that I'm not very good at these things, and I was very nervous about removing the castle playfield. In the end, it wasn't as bad as it seemed. The instructions are excellent, and I felt great for getting it accomplished. Every pin fix for me adds to my confidence level.

#5641 5 years ago
Quoted from hd60609:

Anyone have this happen or any advice?
Game plays perfect since new Feb 2017. Just recently, ball started kicking out of the Crystal Ball VUK so hard that it comes off the rails into the middle of the playfield. I figured I can go into settings and reduce the power. If that is the recommendation, any reason why? Do these just randomly ramp up in power? Thanks.

Quoted from LTG:

That is what I'd do.
Maybe your house current is stronger than it used to be ?
LTG : )

Every so often, I have to tweak the coil settings. It depends upon the time of year and whether the whole neighborhood is running AC or not. WOZ seems to be sensitive to current fluctuations, more so than some of my other pins. Or, at least, it is more noticeable with WOZ.

#5643 5 years ago
Quoted from hd60609:

Occasionally, the image changes to complete pixelation, but then back to clear images. First noticed the pixelation of the image after the machine was on for a while during a party.
I went to make sure all connections were tight and re-seated the SD card (per previous posters/advice). Further thoughts?

Mine does that as well, but it is infrequent enough that I don’t worry about it. I think it is a common issue. If it happens to you frequently, you may want to try some more things. I just put up with the occasional glitch.

1 week later
#5657 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

My castle and munchkinland flippers stopped working all of a sudden. Is this a known phenomena and what should one check? Thank you for any tips!

Since they are two separate mechs, my guess is that they have a common connector to the board or a common fuse. I would check the right connectors (by reseating them) and fuses (by removing and testing with a multimeter) first.

#5659 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Any info, which fuse is it?

I don’t know off the top of my head. Check the manual. If you don’t have one, you can download it from the JJP website.

#5662 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I hate when that happens. Don't you hate when that happens ?

Yes. All pins having flipper can have them stop working.

Please go to Tests - Switches - Dedicated, then slowly push your flipper buttons in. One side at a time. Two leaf blade switches on each side. When you slowly push them in you'll see first one, then the other register on the screen.
If you only see the first one register ( your lower flippers ) then turn the game off. Lift playfield. Adjust the leaf blade switches farthest from the flipper button. So they close when you push the flipper button in.
Close game up. Power up. Enjoy playing again.
LTG : )

Darn it! Forgot to suggest that. But of course Lloyd is right. Should always check the simplest possible cause first.

#5687 5 years ago

Man, I forgot how brutal WOZ is when set up properly. I took a little break from playing since I got a new pin and have largely been playing that one. But I came back to WOZ today, and it totally kicked my butt. Anyone who thinks the pin is slow and floaty hasn’t played a freshly waxed table at a 7 degree pitch with strong flippers. That ball was lightning fast, and the pin taxed all of my skills. I need to practice more.

1 week later
#5707 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

But be careful: if you spell rescue and hit the castle loop before getting the ball behind the doors it will lock a virtual ball and you’ll have to spell “RESCUE” again.

Which is a strategic choice one can choose to make — start Rescue MB with only 2 balls or keep locking balls and start Rescue MB later with more balls. You can go up to 5.

3 weeks later
#5827 5 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

I checked the switch it was extremely loose - I tightened it back as you described with the tab however it still isn’t working ...

Make sure the actuator arm is in the right place as shown in Lloyd’s picture. After doing some work on mine, my arm got bent up and out of place (above the black tab), making the thing not work. I just had to move it back again.

1 week later
#5857 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Just curious about who managed to get the SOTR wizard mode, around how many plays it took you to get there, and what difficulty level / number of balls / outlane settings you play in ?
I just feel like I'm a galaxy away from getting there, and although I do manage to get a couple of the requirements at each game, I still wonder how to get them all

I think I is unreachable for 95-99% of players, which is part of the fun — knowing that there is always something more to strive for.

1 week later
#5888 5 years ago
Quoted from boomgopinball:

The haunted skill shot target rather stealthily adds Hurry-Build lights to the inlanes if they're not all lit. https://t.co/kqgd7DZfSP

I always wondered about what lit those.

#5896 5 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

My door is 29" wide. And as LTG said, the head is 28.75" wide, so I had a quarter inch to work with. It was tight, but we got it through.

I had the same door width and got a WOZ into my basement. Then I remodeled the basement and expanded the door to 32". 29" made me very uncomfortable, though it can be done.

#5908 5 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

and if you are really, really good you can score the Mega Jackpot after hitting 3x all the lit shots, lighting all the RESCUE targets and then doing a one shot loop to castle doors on the Castle Mini PF. Good luck with that!

Just curious, but does anyone know what the Mega Jackpot is worth, not that I'll ever get it . . . . ?

#5915 5 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I wandered the same thing and actually saw it on a video, it was only like 10K points or something low like that. I couldn't believe that something so nearly impossible to achieve was worth so little.
EDIT: Here's the video I watched, start around 18 minutes in if you want to see it. I believe in the newer code that the RESCUE lights do let you know which targets you've hit but I'm not positive about that. His score for the Mega jackpot was 160K because it was 2xd by the CB mode, so it is actually 80K by itself. Still not many points considering how hard it is to achieve.

80k points for one shot is nothing to sneeze at in WOZ, but yeah, I agree with you that I would have expected that jackpot to be worth a bit more.

#5921 5 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I am looking to possibly join the club and purchase a WOZ. Debating between buying a standard nib or a used Emerald City Edition.
Can anyone tell me a bit about the Emerald City LE Edition? I've read it was the first group made. Can anyone tell me what the price was new and how they are holding up over time? New standards are 8k, right?
Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Its the only version with the wooden apron which makes it pretty unique. The only debate you'll find about getting it is about the light boards. Some have had problems; others have not. With a new standard, you can get the 2.0 boards which are supposed to be more reliable. It is not an insignificant decision.

#5934 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I have a 7,5V buffered version, got a few boards that died, but it's a breeze to fix and JJP is super helpful and reactive in sending replacement parts, added to the fact that it's a fantastic game I wouldn't worry too much about the boards.
The biggest concern to me is how the early release had no mylar protection anywhere which will inevitably damage the playfield, I would look more on that part than as a biggest long term concern.

I believe JJP will send out Mylar for those areas, so as long as there isn't any damage at the moment, one should be fine.

#5937 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

My RR WOZ states I have a matrix switch #73 not working witch is the winkie target. Basically the target is staying down. I can manually push it up underneath the play field and when i hit the target it retracts so I don't think it is stuck. The coil that causes the winkie target to go down works, but the auto up coil is NOT working when i am in test mode. Any help appreciated. I am attaching pictures so let me know if anything looks out of place. Thanks.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It looks like the arm of the micro switch that detects when the target is down is on top of the metal tab on the target instead of under it. So it will never be closed. Put it on the other side of the metal tab and see if that fixes it.

#5940 5 years ago

Sorry. I stand corrected. Lloyd is of course right. I was getting confused by the picture. My switch arm once got bent back but I think it got caught on the other side of the black plastic tab not the metal piece. Sorry for the confusion.

2 weeks later
#6004 5 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

just wondering if anyone has seen this problem. About 1 out of every 10 games the ball doesn't make it onto the upper castle play field. The VUK fires fine and the ball enters the wireworm, but actually comes through the wire form and bounces back onto the main play field. Its odd to me that the ball would actually fit through the wire form but it does (right at the 90 degree bend).

Adjust the power of the VUK coil down a point or two and see if that helps.

#6018 5 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

I have a new problem on my woz rr. The winkie guard target is not working properly during the battle against the wicked witch. After i complete the four red shots, i believe the winkie guard target is supposed to retract so i can hit the vuk castle shot, but the the target is retracting halfway and getting stuck and not moving. The winkie guard is working fine and not getting stuck when i am trying to go into castle to complete rescue multiball. Lloyd help me fix the winkie guard a couple of weeks ago as it wasnt working at all. Thanks for the help.
I have a video of it I just don’t know how to attach it here.

I can’t imagine why it would do this during that one mode and not at other times. Could it be just a coincidence? How many times have you tried this both during the battle mode and other modes? Are you sure it is not sticking at all at other times?

1 week later
#6081 5 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Has anyone had this happen?
My buddy was playing, went to hit the ball but held the flipper button in and by fluke, it stopped the ball on the tip. It's bizarre as the ball is actually beyond the tip. It stayed put and I took a half dozen pics.
[quoted image]

Ha! That’s awesome! I’ve had some crazy catches before but none as crazy as that.

2 weeks later
#6150 5 years ago
Quoted from Ricmaz:

If this has been covered before, forgive me. I’m trying to troubleshoot my Throne Room opto. Machine thinks there is a ball in there all the time. Took both sides off of the bracket and held them right across from one another, and it still thinks there is a something between them. Anything else to do before I replace the opto?
Thanks for any suggestions.

Maybe try reseating the opto connectors.

1 week later
#6180 5 years ago

I thought all RR editions were supposed to come with the printed manual. Mine did.

1 week later
#6208 5 years ago
Quoted from Ockeyhead:

Last night I turned on WOZ & the playfield lights weren't on. I immediately turned the machine off for a minute & turned it back on. After turning WOZ back on all was fine & the lights were functioning as they should. We had some friends over all night & the machine was fine. Should I be concerned about this, or is this a precursor for issues w/ the playfield lights in the near future? Also, is there anything I should check or reseat? The machine has the original light boards & is a first production run. Jan/6/2014 ~ 588/1000.

Don’t worry about it unless it becomes more frequent. It happens to me maybe twice a year.

#6239 5 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

What about those that do? The guy I bought this one from received fixes from JJP that were installed but apparently as I'm unfortunately learning probably didn't fix all of the problems (despite his assurances that everything had been fixed and taken care of).

I understand your frustration but I would suggest taking things one step at a time. Figure out the upstream board that’s causing a problem and get a replacement. Hopefully all will be well for a long time and you will have a very enjoyable game experience. If you have other problems after that, then see about 2.0.

2 weeks later
#6297 5 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I haven't played WOZ in a few months (with all of the updates on TH and DI holding my interest). Played it tonight to test out a mod and battled the witch twice and beat her on the second attempt for my first time ever. That felt great and was cool to finally see that fanfare. What's after that? The encore multiball (whatever that is called) after beating the witch had a bunch of lights flashing different colors on the inserts and I shot for and got a few of the white diamonds, but I didn't know what I should do at that point. After that multi-ball, it went back to normal. Never really payed attention to all the hoopla about it before as I had to beat the witch as my short term goal. What a rush! Now my wife is pouting because she had the grand champ score for the last few months and I went past her score. She just has to try some more.

Congrats!

The victory laps mode after melting the witch is just a five ball multiball where all shots are lit for jackpots. The jackpot value decreases for as long as you hold in a flipper button. So you kind of want to play it like no hold flippers. It is really fun, and a great reward for finishing off the witch.

1 month later
#6420 5 years ago
Quoted from chalkup8:

How best to collect Horse of a Different Colour?
I find it a difficult shot.
A very fine tip from the lower left flipper or timing a back hand from the lower right flipper? Either way,it's tricky (for me).
When i compare this to lifting the mini flipper on TZ to make the shot under the mini playfield,Twilight is a walk in the park.

It is the hardest shot in the game because it can be so powerful. The best way to do it if the timing works out is to backhand the shot with two balls on the right flipper during multiball. You can sometimes get it from the left flipper, but you have to be spot on with your aim.

1 week later
#6443 5 years ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Here is a photo of the problem I am having, yet I can turn the machine off and on again and all ok.
[quoted image]

That insert light that is on is on one of the boards very upstream in the chain. It is either a connection related to that board or perhaps something wrong with that board or the next one. Follow the trouble shooting tips in the manual.

#6448 5 years ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

I know I am extremly late to the party but I just ordered my first pinball machine. I ordered a new Wizard of Oz-75th Anniversary LE fromMike at Automated. I am slowly working may way through this thread (currently on page 38 of 129) and hope to make it to the end before I take delivery. I have never seen this machine in person but have fallen in love with it based on videos and reviews I have seen online. I can't wait to play it!!!

Congrats and welcome!

1 week later
#6496 5 years ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

Sorry for the dumb question but should I be able to control the munchkin flipper throughout the game or do you have to unlock a mode for it? I have yet to be able to trigger it. The machine does move it (puts it in the up position before each new ball) so I know the coil is not broken. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Also I found this screw inside the cabinet? Are there many locations for thumb screws in the machine? I would like to put it back where it goes.[quoted image]

Check the gap on the leaf switches that control the Munchkin flipper. It should be that the first blade controls the left flipper and the second controls the Munchkin. It may not be making contact with the second. If so, it is an easy adjustment.

#6519 5 years ago

I really think we need to eliminate the simple first. We still haven’t heard whether the leaf switches on the left flipper button are gapped properly and whether those switches are registering in test mode when the button is pressed, and not registering when the button is not pressed. Gotfrogs can you please do that and report back? There should be two switches associated with the left flipper button — one for the left flipper and one for the Munchkin flipper.

#6527 5 years ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

You guys are right on the money! I did't even know there were two contact for the switches. Sure enough the two inner contacts were pressed together which is what was causing the problem! After bending the right contact out, I can now control the flipper on the munchkin platform with my cliffy installed! This also explains to me why it was so dam difficult to enter my initials when I got a high score. The machine would keep cycling through letters unless I pushed the left or right button. I kept thinking to myself why in the world did they set this up this way? With the switch not stuck close it works as expected!
I really cant thank everyone enough! I was really bummed about not being able to play with my machine the first weekend that I owned it. Do you think the life of the coil has been compromised with it getting so hot and melting the outer plastic? It works today but who knows how much life was pulled from it being powerd on continually for several hours.
Again thanks a million![quoted image]

Congrats! I’m glad that was it. Over and over again, I usually find that the simplest explanation is usually the right one. It is just knowing what the simplest explanation is that can be difficult.

#6528 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

What did you use to wax ? I’ve been very frustrated lately with barely making it past 200.000, who knows I might not suck at it after all it could be wax !

Quoted from capguntrooper:

Wizards mist n shine like they use in the factory

Use P21S or Blitz wax, both pure caranuba waxes. Wizards is not a wax but is good for in between cleanings.

I usually find waxing makes my scores go down for a while because everything gets so fast, but YMMV.

3 weeks later
#6634 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Frank has been gone so they are backed up.
Please keep trying.
I don't have access to ticket desk so I can't do anything there.
LTG : )

I hope Frank is ok. He is great.

#6662 5 years ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

It is not my best score but I doubt I ever get that number again![quoted image]

Oh, you will. Don’t worry. You’ll have magical games where everything just seems to come together for you. Give it time. One of theses days your bonus alone will be over that amount and you’ll look back at that post and laugh.

#6664 5 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I think he was just liking the 111111

Oh right. Oops. Completely misread the post. Sorry.

#6711 5 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Just a heads up for those with 7.5v light board games. I was cleaning the playfield on my WOZ yesterday and after a quick wipe down with Novus 1 went to apply a hard carnauba wax. I had been waxing the playfield with Wizards Mist n Shine per JJP's recommendation as it has anti static properties which is key to reducing the chance of light board issues on 7.5v games.
I've never had an issue with my game so figured I would skip the Mist n Shine this time and just use a caranuba wax. Well, while buffing the dried caranuba wax off the playfield using a microfiber cloth I could hear the static build up / release on the cloth. I cleaned 3 other pins prior to this and never noticed a static build up sound while buffing the playfield. I did have the game plugged in but it was turned off. I ended up going back over the playfield with Wizards Mist n Shine, same type of cloth, and noticed 0 static build up. Weird.
So if you have a WOZ with 7.5v light boards use Wizards Mist n Shine to wax your playfield. It's the static build up on the light boards / playfield that can cause light board issues and failures. Cleaning the game with a product like Wizards Mist n Shine will reduce static build up on the playfield.
amazon.com link »

I would recommend doing your waxing in the more humid months so there is less static. The dryer months are good for the Wizards treatment.

1 week later
#6768 5 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Trying to change my WOZ settings so the game plays as close to default settings as possible. Seems like there's 1 default score award at 30k points that awards an extra ball. That point value seems low but maybe that's how the programmer designed it? Also changed ball save to off which is the default setting.
I used to have extra balls given out at 500k and 1 million points along with a 7 second ball save time but after seeing some long running games I prefer the game to be at default settings.

I don't think getting an extra ball for a score award is default. You get the extra ball insert lit at default by getting to 10 on YBR, or by collecting 2 HOADC (I think), or as a random award.

You can award an extra ball for points in settings, but that is not a default setting. I used to have it at 100,000 but took it away when I started getting better.

I do keep a ball saver on. There have been too many times when I plunge, hit the pops and have them shoot the ball right down the right outlane without me ever getting to flip.

1 week later
#6801 5 years ago

I'm seriously considering swapping to the 2.0 light system and need some honesty about how difficult it is. I am not an expert at pinball repair, but I have fixed several things and can get by. I have never done a playfield swap. I have successfully removed both the castle and munchkin playfields and put them back in. I've read the instructions, and they seem somewhat overwhelming, but I think if I take my time and do it in chunks over the course of a few days, I could do it. Anyway, I'm interested in hearing from others with similar skill sets as me as to how big a deal this is. Thanks!

#6803 5 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

You can certainly do it. Plan to do a little each day or evening and if it takes 1 week (2 weekends), no problem.
I have made some comments and shared some pics in this thread if you want to go back and review. There are a few of us who can answer questions and guise you through. You will not regret the decision to move ahead!

Thanks! I think I've realized that WOZ is one of those pins that I just don't intend to sell, but right now I feel like every time I turn it on, I hold my breath wondering whether another one of those little GI boards is about to go, which is why I'm considering this.

#6805 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

PM me your email address and I'll email you the instructions and vireland's notes.
Then you can decide. You are the best judge of your tech skills.
LTG : )

Thanks. PM sent. I have the instructions but not virelands notes. Do they clarify certain things?

#6817 5 years ago

Just ordered the 2.0 lighting conversion kit.

1 week later
#6853 5 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

I picked up an original run WOZ recently and an working through some issues as I discover them. Since I'm new to the game, I'm not always sure what behavior is normal. Is the game supposed to release locked balls at the end of the game? Mine does not release balls from the munchkinland lock at the end of the game. If I end a game with balls locked, start a new game and lock a ball it does not kick a new ball into the shooter lane. It goes into a ball search instead. What is normal/ what is wrong with this picture?

That’s not normal. Check the switches for the locked balls on the Munchkin playfield. I bet one is not registering.

#6859 5 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Figured it out. Not sure why but the problem seems to have been caused by the monkey not making it all the way to the top. I fixed that and now the game seems to work normally.
BTW - I was reading through the manual this morning and noticed that whether the game clears out locked balls at the end of a game or not is actually a setting. I just updated my machine to the latest code, so it is set to the default, which is "no". So not having the balls drain out of the locks is normal. I'm curious though whether anyone has an opinion as to whether there is any advantage to "yes" or "no" in this setting?

No advantage. You still have to lock three balls to start MB regardless of whether they are being held or not from a prior game. You want them released at the end of a game IMO.

1 week later
#6936 5 years ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

Not sure what that game is but its not an LE
Doesn't have the Timber apron signed
whats it say on the back

It is Automated’s green version. Only they sell it.

#6939 5 years ago

It’s a nice version for those that want the green but missed out on the ECLEs.

#6947 5 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Had a minor issue with my WOZ - bad/broken solder joint on the haunted forest skill shot caused several other switches to fail too. Resoldered the wires and all is good again. Thanks to ltg for the helping hand too.
Got my invoice from cliffy this morning, so once he catches up I'll have cliffys for the munchkin playfield edge and castle playfield edge.

That switch is right near the edge so can take damage when you are lifting and lowering the playfield. I had a wire snap off on mine. Make sure the switch has enough clearance, and if not, gently bend the contacts out of the way.

1 week later
#7050 5 years ago

I posted about this in the 2.0 lighting conversion thread, but I figured I would post here as well for those who don't follow that thread. I just finished the work on the conversion this weekend. Overall, it took me about 14 hours, which I spread out in sessions over 5 days (three weekends). If you are considering doing this but are nervous about whether you have the skills, do it. I have very little in the way of repair skills compared to most on pinside, though I'm learning. This conversion is very doable. Just take it in steps, follow the instructions, and ask questions if you need help. Don't let nerves stop you. Honestly, the most difficult part is removing the castle and munchkin playfields, which isn't really all that hard and which you will most likely have to do at some point. Anyway, I just wanted to offer some words of encouragement to those who may be on the fence.

#7053 5 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Cool thanks for posting. I’m taking delivery of a very early run of WOZ (No 27/1000) which I will inevitably have to replace the boards at some point. Was it easy to purchase the boards from JJP. And what is the total cost including shipping if you don’t mind me asking, although I’m uk based so will cost more

It is up on their online store now so you can order directly from that. Mine shipped the day after ordering. It is $800, which is the discounted rate. At some point, they have threatened to raise the price significantly since they are selling at cost, but that hasn’t happened yet. Shipping wasn’t too bad, but you are right that it will cost more for you. It comes in a fairly large box.

#7068 5 years ago

I need help. In the middle of a game, one of the coils started acting up and seemed to fire on its own. The game screen then went dark. I shut down the game and restarted it. When it started up, the game seemed ok but very quickly into my first plunge, multiple coils started firing. I heard a pop and smelled burning. I turned off the game again quickly. I looked inside the box, and the only thing I saw out of the ordinary was this burnt looking chip on the I/O board (see picture below).

Note that I recently converted the game to the 2.0 lighting system. However, I played multiple games since doing that and everything played well. More recently, I waxed the game, and this was my first game after waxing. Not that waxing would do anything, but I did pull out the playfield a bit to get everywhere.

Any ideas? Is this just bad luck, and my I/O board went? Do I have some other issue that caused the I/O board to go? I'm really bummed out as I just spent all that time on the 2.0 upgrade only to have this happen a week later. Thanks in advance for the help.

IO Board (resized).jpgIO Board (resized).jpg

#7069 5 years ago

Are these fuse LEDs supposed to be out?

Also, how did my witch get unmoored from the threaded rod? Perhaps because the motor just kept turning?

When I turn on the machine now, the ball lock door on the castle playfield just keeps clicking open and shut, even when the coin door is open.

D97489F6-65D2-46E7-9A34-49FA4D3CB17D (resized).jpegD97489F6-65D2-46E7-9A34-49FA4D3CB17D (resized).jpeg
B83A1F5A-A425-4455-90C4-C92C98DC88D9 (resized).jpegB83A1F5A-A425-4455-90C4-C92C98DC88D9 (resized).jpeg

#7071 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Look st the coils, see if any look overheated.
Check for burnt connectors or maybe inserted wrong, smashed or bent onto the siderail or ground.
Looks like a high voltage short to cause that chip to burn.
Check the schematic and see what that chip controls
Could be wire cut, pinched or damaged and going to ground.
Could be a stay wire in a connector.
Screw or washer fell onto a board?
The game will not function properly until your i/o board is repaired or replaced.
Sorry to see this happening after all the work getting 2.0 up and running.

Thanks. This is very disappointing. I’ll have to check everything over, likely next weekend. I feel like I’m going to be looking for a needle in a hay stack.

What would an overheated coil look like?

#7080 5 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Really sorry to hear this Nokoro. Was following your 2.0 lights with great interest. Don’t know if one had something to do with the other, but I also had an i/o board short out. Never found the cause but had it replaced and it’s been good for years. Darn pinball machines.

Thanks Vyzer. What made you finally decide to stop looking for the short and just replace the board? I’m paranoid about replacing it as I don’t want to spend all that money just to short another board, but I’m really not sure what caused this.

pinballinreno all coil sleeves look ok.

I really need to go over everything more closely. I’m going to email JJP and see what that chip connects to to try to narrow this down. I’m not sure if the 2.0 conversion had anything to do with this. As I said, everything worked fine for about a week after I finished, and then this happened.

#7082 5 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

I couldn’t nail it down, so called Jjp and actually had Eric M call me back. This was when Eric was not working on designs, etc. He had me checking everything with a multi meter (spent a good amount of time on the phone, couldn’t thank him enough). In the end there was nothing specific that could determine the cause. Just wound up ordering a new board. Keep in mind, my game was a very early production game (May 2013). Because I live in NJ I took the board to Jjp where they work on all sorts of boards to repair. Got a different I/0 board (used) which they felt was more robust for lack of a better word. It has been fine since. Btw, replacing it for you will be a snap after the work you did on the light boards. Do keep us up to date.

Thanks. I have a friend who is a bit more experienced than me with these things, and he said he would help go through all the connections with me with a multimeter. I still want to call JJP to see if I can narrow it down based on the chip.

#7084 5 years ago

I'm not great with schematics, but if I am reading it correctly, it looks like it is a transistor thingy for the switch matrix columns. If I'm right, maybe that rules out the coils . . . .

#7122 5 years ago

I’ve bought two games from Automated and had great service both times. Just call them. Maybe something got mixed up.

1 week later
#7278 4 years ago

Hi all. Selling my 1.1 light boards, having swapped them out for the 2.0 kit. Here is a link to the ad. PM me if interested:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-11-light-board-set-for-sale

#7302 4 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

for freeeeeeeeee??

You're paying airfare?!

#7315 4 years ago
Quoted from PinDoctor82:

I have never seen the movie

How is that possible?

Then again, I’ve never seen Casablanca.

11
#7401 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I need help. In the middle of a game, one of the coils started acting up and seemed to fire on its own. The game screen then went dark. I shut down the game and restarted it. When it started up, the game seemed ok but very quickly into my first plunge, multiple coils started firing. I heard a pop and smelled burning. I turned off the game again quickly. I looked inside the box, and the only thing I saw out of the ordinary was this burnt looking chip on the I/O board (see picture below).
Note that I recently converted the game to the 2.0 lighting system. However, I played multiple games since doing that and everything played well. More recently, I waxed the game, and this was my first game after waxing. Not that waxing would do anything, but I did pull out the playfield a bit to get everywhere.
Any ideas? Is this just bad luck, and my I/O board went? Do I have some other issue that caused the I/O board to go? I'm really bummed out as I just spent all that time on the 2.0 upgrade only to have this happen a week later. Thanks in advance for the help.
[quoted image]

I wanted to follow-up on this story. I think my WOZ is finally back up and running thanks to the tremendous support of the JJP team, including Steve, Butch, Frank, Shannan and others.

I sent the pictures of my fried chip on the I/O board to JJP, and they were able to look at it and say that it was most likely caused by a 70v surge into the switch matrix at column 7. That really helped me narrow down where the problem came from. The current theory is that the tab on my skill shot switch got bent by the cabinet rail and was resting against it.

WOZ -- bent skill shot switch (resized).JPGWOZ -- bent skill shot switch (resized).JPG

Then, when the left bumper fired, the nut on the bracket likely touched the rail briefly sending the voltage into the switch matrix and frying my chip.

WOZ -- left bumper (resized).JPGWOZ -- left bumper (resized).JPG

I straightened the switch and tried to bend the tabs further away from the side of the cabinet where the rail is. I also wrapped the skill shot switch, the left winged monkey switch, and the nut on the bumper in electrical tape, just in case accidental contact is made again.

WOZ Switches -- electrical tape (resized).JPGWOZ Switches -- electrical tape (resized).JPG

I sent the I/O board back to JJP, and they very promptly repaired it and sent it back. Unfortunately, when I installed it, one of the optos was acting funny, triggering a whole row on the matrix. I contacted JJP again, and they suggested that I try to switch the opto I/O board with the other one in the game. The other one worked, proving that I had a faulty board. I'm not sure what caused that, but perhaps it was the same voltage surge. They sent me a new board, and now everything appears to be working after playing two games. I still feel like I'm walking on egg shells, but I really hope my problems are behind me.

I can't emphasize enough how helpful the JJP team was with this. I really think I would have been lost without them. Thanks guys!

Now for a Public Service Announcement: The next time you lift your playfield, check both your skill shot switch and the left winged monkey target switch. Both are so close to the rail when the playfield is down that they are almost touching. I've had problems with that skill shot switch before getting bent. Make sure it is not getting crushed by the rail.

#7426 4 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I just love how well this game continues to do and sell.
If I pick one up, I'll have 3 pins in my very new pinball collection.
1) JJP POTC CE
2) AFMr LE
3) WOZ
I think that would be pretty cool!
And I'm VERY interested in TNA too -- especially for the price!

I’m convinced that WOZ is one of the greatest pins of all time. I had another one of those games last night where I had three or four things stacked together and everything was just nuts. Love it! You won’t go wrong in getting one.

#7428 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

The best is multiball lights off scoring.

Or on. Combined with Munchkin frenzy and a multiball or two. I’ve had bonuses up to 400,000 points. Just don’t tilt!

#7464 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

This in hindsight is when I think the fourth player was added and the game reset. A skill shot shouldn’t be available mid ball should it? Just as another note, I had earned at least two extra balls that I thought I was playing through.

Perhaps things got confused. You pushed the start button unintentionally and started a fourth player? Also, if you are playing with balls in reserve, then you don’t play through your extra balls but still alternate turns and get your extra balls at the end. I wouldn’t worry about it unless it happens again. My guess is that you guys lost track of whose turn it was. I know when I have friends over, it can sometimes be an easy thing to do.

#7512 4 years ago
Quoted from mjfisher:

Hi all - having an issue with my monkey magnet sense. It activates fine (in test magnet sense goes green) but then it wont switch off even if I move the sensor away from the machine. The only way to switch it off is to unplug the board and reconnect. Then if I try again, same result. Don't think it's a positioning issue. Dodgy sensor perhaps? Or something weird with 7.01 update? Thanks.

What board does it plug into? Perhaps the board is bad.

#7525 4 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Does anyone know if the RR comes with invisiglass?

It does.

#7565 4 years ago
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

Finally! It is an honor to be a Member of your Club now fellas... also 1st JJP for me
I’m extremely happy with all the details in this Yellow Brick Edition, the translite, glossy decals, the art blades, the new topper. Etc, the yellow looks much better personally than the pics, definitely a beautiful Pinball.
Regards[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice color coordination! Those pillows look really great with the game standing nearby.

#7574 4 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Hey guys I have some rattling noise going on mostly when shaker goes off even in low setting . It seems to be coming from upper play field or backbox but have no idea maybe even that tornado toy . Anyone have this before ?

Go into test mode and try the shaker from there. Turn it on while pressing on things. Try pressing on the playfield glass, going through each corner to see if the rattling stops. If not, try pressing on the back glass. If the playfield glass is rattling, you can use anti rattle tape at the edge to give it a snugger fit. On a different pin, I just used a small strip of duct tape, and the rattling went away. If the glass is not causing it, then trying holding different things on the playfield itself to see if you can locate the culprit.

#7577 4 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Do u know where in test mode shaker is ? I’ve been looking for it . Thanks !

Probably in the coils area. I can look later. You will need to pull the coin door switch to use it while the door is open.

#7612 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

Tried to do regular maintenance on my WOZ RR today and found the Test report shows
"Check matrixes switch #70 RESCU(E) (stuck open)"
I have not lifted up the playfield to check. But do I need to order a new switch for it? or I need to take out the castle play field to confirm?
Thanks.

Did you press the (E) in test mode to see if it registers? You will get a test report simply if a switch hasn’t been activated in a while. The E is hard to hit, so it may be working fine, and you just haven’t hit it in the game lately.

#7614 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinbear:

Yes, I did. While I press "E" switch, you wouldn't register.

You may have to take out the castle playfield to look. Could just be a broken wire if that is the only switch having issues.

#7634 4 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Ok I probably need to read the rule book, but when I first launch the ball, I am assuming I cannot change the lane with my flipper to light it green to get a skill shot?

Not for the skill shot, but during regular game play, the flippers control the upper lanes.

#7646 4 years ago

Collecting HOADC is one of the most powerful things you can do in a game because it multiplies your Munchkin mode points if you collect successfully. It is a very difficult shot since it can be so powerful. Just try stacking something like Munchkin frenzy with a crystal ball multiplier and a multiball and have the Munchkin multiplier active as well. Your bonus will be insane. (The Munchkin mode awards are collected during the bonus phase.). Just don’t tilt or it all goes away. I had a 400,000 point bonus once. I think that was the most I’ve ever collected.

#7679 4 years ago

I find I have to adjust the power to the coils at different points during the year. When it is hot out, and the AC is running full blast, the coils seem a bit weaker, so they get turned up. In the winter, it is the opposite.

#7775 4 years ago

When I got my 2.0 kit, two of the new boards were bad. One of the large boards and one of the GI ones. Got replacements and everything has been fine. But, it just goes to show that anything can happen.

By contrast, I’ve had my DI for a bit over a year and never had a problem with any of the lights. Harry, if you have had multiple issues, that is some extreme bad luck. Of course, the pin was routed so it may have seen some heavy play, but it is surprising that you have had so many issues.

#7793 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I must just be unlucky. ltg after replacing the GI's that were obviously an issue here is what I see now in white test mode. The differences in lighting you see in the photos (with one light being more yellow and another being more blue) are how they look in person. You can see in the bottom of the playfield view that the bottom right corner of several lights are much more beige/pink than the rest. If you look at the one pic that has the side of the castle playfield in it you can see two lights, one is yellowish and one is blueish. Like I said, I am going to live with this for now, I guess. I have 5 more GI boards new but I am going to wait and see what happens.
Oh, and it isn't a "chaining" thing or wiring. If I swap boards around the color follows them, meaning it's the board.

22k plays and 3/24/17 build date. Personally, if I were keeping my SE with the 5v boards I would have done the conversion to 2.0. I actually ordered the kit and then happenstance I got the RR and cancelled the order and found a used set of boards to fix my 5v issues.
Yellowish
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Blueish
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Castle playfield one yelloish one blueish
[quoted image]
Bottom right has a concentration of yelloish lights, among others
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Those don't look like board failures to me such that the board once worked, and it no longer does. Unless you are saying that is what happened. Rather, they look like the lights themselves are slightly off, perhaps a slight defect in manufacture. So, I'm not sure this says anything about the longevity of the 2.0 system. It might just say that there was a bad batch of boards out there.

#7795 4 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

I'm sure this has been covered before, but is there a way I can upgrade my machine to 2.0?

Yes, you can order a kit for $800 from the JJP online store. It takes about 12-14 hours to do the upgrade. I’ve done it, and I’m not very mechanically inclined. There are good step by step instructions and plenty of support here on pinside.

#7798 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

If a board worked and no longer does, what do you call that? I'm not sure what you're trying to differentiate here. If you're saying the different hues is not a failure, I will agree there.. they haven't failed, but they aren't working correctly or 100%. It's just annoying now, enough that I'll probably spend the money to replace all of the GI boards.
These are the ones that unquestionably failed: https://photos.app.goo.gl/roFBtFmU9DNdPsVF6
I don't know, I sort of expect that all lights have the same hue from the same manufacturer. If the boards change color over time, that seems like an issue. If they are different batches that have different hues, issue. It's not a world hunger type issue but if I bought the same bulbs from Comet and some were one hue and some another they would make it right, I know this as a fact. I haven't known LEDs to change color/hues over time but I have no specific knowledge on this.

Maybe I was confused. So those boards were once perfect white and are now tinted, is that right? Then, I would agree that something happened. If they came slightly tinted to begin with, then it just seems like a bad batch. I just don’t want people to be concerned about the reliability of the 2.0 system if it is the latter.

#7833 4 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Quick question... Considering a RR built in 2015, but I'm concerned that it doesn't have the 2.0 light kit.
Will it eventually need replacing?

Likely at some point you will need to replace a board. Some have better luck, others not so much. I used to have a handful of the GI boards fail every winter when the air started getting dry and staticky. I also had a couple of the larger boards fail. I eventually did the 2.0 upgrade. It is not too bad to do, just time consuming. If you can get a RR for a decent price and are willing to do the upgrade, I would go for it.

2 weeks later
#7900 4 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I'm about to pick up an Emerald with 1.0 board issues. The game comes with the 2.0 kit, but it might take me a while to free up the time to do the install.
I'm wondering if in the interim, if it's possible (and makes sense) to replace the old boards with the same parts just to get it up and running?
Can anyone shed light on this. Could I just figure out what 1.0 boards are bad, and just get a 1.0 replacement for them?

Yes, you can diagnose the boards using the method in the manual and figure out which are bad. JJP can sell you the older boards. Or, you can find someone who recently did the 2.0 conversion and buy their old boards off of them assuming they are working. Depending upon how many are out on your game, the latter might be cheaper as buying the individual boards can be expensive.

My 2 cents, just do the conversion. It will take 12 hours plus or minus, but you can spread it out over many days and do it in chunks so it is more manageable. I wouldn’t waste your money on buying replacement 1.0 boards if your are ultimately going to convert.

#7902 4 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

What's the difficulty rating on doing the 2.0 install? Is it pretty straight forward, just time consuming?
Does the JJP instructions cover everything? And drilling into the pf required?
Thanks

I’m not terribly mechanically inclined, and I was terrified of it, but it is not that bad. You do have to drill new pilot holes on the underside of the playfield, which is just a scary concept, but again not that bad. The JJP instructions are excellent and take you through it step by step. The early instructions had some places that needed clarity. My understanding is that they’ve revised them, but I’m not sure which set of instructions you have. Regardless, there is an excellent thread that gives tips and clarifies the instructions, and you can pose questions there. It is:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/has-anyone-installed-woz-20-yet-im-about-too-

There are a bunch of us who have done it and are happy to help.

#7951 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Mine has a huge bundle of them hanging down from the bottom of the playfield.

I now know what those things were that I removed when I did the 2.0 conversion. What's their purpose again?

#7954 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Wire nuts instead of molex connectors.
Very fast assembly, inexpensive, low reliability on stranded wire.
kinda like IDC connectors, just jam the wire in and your connected, for awhile...

Got it. Thanks.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

In two different WOZ I have seen nothing like you describe. In fact, I just ran a bunch of custom lighting wires all around my playfield, cabinet, wiring harness, etc and I see no sort of "quick" connection nuts anywhere.

Mine were at the ends of the power harness connecting the purple and black wires on the old lighting system. The 2.0 system doesn’t have them.

#7961 4 years ago
Quoted from JoshODBrown:

Just in case anybody else needs some help with pinball matrix debugging, I found this video very useful in understanding the basic concept of how the matrix works. I always had sort of an idea how it worked on a perfect system, but was not familiar with how stuff can go whacky if a diode goes out.

Yeah, Terry's video is awesome.

#7963 4 years ago
Quoted from JoshODBrown:

I had a moment to lift the hood and take a peek at the rainbow targets tonight, and the first thing I looked at was Switch 95 since it was reporting stuck closed. Took a closer look at the switch and the contacts behind the target were not stuck together, so I looked at the bottom of the switch, and lo and behold there shined a tiny, barely visible splotch of solder bridging the blades on the switch...must have splashed down from when the previous owners were doing maintenance on it. Scraped it off and we are back in business! No more switches getting erroneously triggered. Amazing how a tiny little bridge like that can cause a chain of issues!
Just glad I didn't have to go as far as replacing diodes. Easy peasy!

Nice find! Sometimes it’s like looking for a needle in a haystack. Glad you solved it.

#7977 4 years ago
Quoted from oropuro:

How difficult is switching out the light boards or upgrading to the 2.0 ones? Is it $800 and 40 hours of work or switching things out easy ?

More like 12-14 hours of work. You can break it up as much as you want. The instructions are good and straightforward, and you can take it step by step. I did it a few hours a day over the course of 3 weekends, only because I like taking breaks. I would not recommend doing it all in one day. You will tire yourself out and are more prone to make mistakes.

1 week later
#8106 4 years ago
Quoted from JohnnyPinball007:

Thanks for the response to my question. One more question, is there a certain build date that after that time the game is a lot better with not as many issues needing repair? I would want one with the flying monkey, and I know they did away with that with the YBR.

The only thing to consider in terms of build dates is whether it has the 2.0 lighting system or something earlier. It could have been made with the 2.0 system, or a prior owner could have upgraded it. The 2.0 system is more reliable, and is the system that JJP moved to with all of its games.

So build date may or may not be an indicator. Just check to see if it has the newer system.

Even if not, if you don’t mind the work, you can buy an upgrade kit from JJP for $800 and convert it yourself should you ever have an issue with the older system.

#8173 4 years ago

Wow! Congrats to all the new owners. You’ll be very happy with your purchases.

#8174 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Am I the only one who doesn't mind the tube? Yes smoking witch is cool but I'm fine with the tube if I can't get one.

I’m right there with you. Never had a problem with the tube.

#8178 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Which part of the movie does the tube relate to?
It's a huge after thought, at least that is what it looks like.

The part of the movie where the witch falls into the chocolate river and gets stuck in the tube, and the oompah loompas start singing.

Oh, wait, I may be confused.

The tube is just a protective case with some trees on it. It’s not the greatest looking thing, but again I don’t really mind it.

#8188 4 years ago
Quoted from bigbadmiker:

One thing my wife pointed out was the 2nd “E” on rescue is only displaying the color green. It does turn off and on, but only green. I thought I saw it change color once. The rest of the leds change colors. Is this an easy fix?
I haven’t even lifted the playfield yet as my wife has been playing nonstop since it came home. I thought I’d ask here first before I start messing with it.

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Put the game in ALL LED test and then walk through the colors one at a time Red Green Blue. See if one of the color LEDs has failed on that E

If the LED has in fact failed, you will need to get a replacement board to fix it. Replacing the board requires removing the castle playfield which seems intimidating at first but is not too bad. There are step by step instructions in the manual.

You may want to consider a 2.0 lighting upgrade kit which you can get from JJP for $800. If you have the old lighting, the upgrade provides much more reliable boards. It is a much bigger job, about 12-14 hours, but it gives you piece of mind, especially if your older boards are starting to fail.

#8242 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

You really need to see it in person, pictures don't do it justice.
LTG : )

Finally saw one at Pintastic. The sparkly yellow looks amazing. It is a sweet looking machine.

#8245 4 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

But $11,500 worth of “sweet looking machine”? Is taking the monkey out an upgrade or downgrade? Sounds like a downgrade to me. How do they justify that Price?

I’m not trying to justify it, but if they can sell enough at that price point and people are willing to pay for it, all power to them. I think it is for a select few who are willing to pay for that trim package.

#8248 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

so I need some help with strategy. I understand locking balls for MB, rescue MB, trying to defeat the which but what do you guys do first or how do you approach it? I also don't understand the haunted forest modes or why crystal ball is important besides making it harder to play.
Also - munchkin land - any strategy besides trying to hit every switch in the game since it's more points? Is it just a super awesome switch mode?
I think this game is still the most beautiful pinball ever made.

A while back, I started a strategy thread. I haven't looked back at it in some time, but there are likely good pointers in there.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-strategies-for-points-and-for-the-quest

#8279 4 years ago

Hang in there Rager170 Every NIB game I’ve received had a few issues that needed to be worked out. JJP and the pinside community will get you through it. When I got my DI, neither the QED or Betty mech worked when I first turned it on. It was frustrating, but I soon discovered an obvious issue. Two connectors were unplugged in the back box. I’m sure it is something simple with your game. LTG and Pinballomatic will help you through it, and you’ll be flipping trouble free in no time.

#8285 4 years ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

... Granted my shooter rod has never been properly aligned so I have constant ball launch issues but that just helps me with the skill shots so I simply don't care... LOL
Jeff

The issue with inconsistent plunges is not uncommon. Look at my post here for a possible way to fix it:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/47#post-3372442

#8386 4 years ago

I have a RR with no blades, and I have no clearance.

3 weeks later
#8549 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Couple questions for you guys...
One, my ball has a tenancy to get stuck on the Winkie target when its down, on the backside of it. Assuming the target just needs to be raised slightly?
Second, for the rollover switches for Tinman, Lion, Toto... How high/low should these be. I see that when the ball is rolling calmly on the playfield, these obstruct the balls path. Should they do that?
Thanks.

Yes to both. Level the Winkie target, either up or down, whatever is required. And, slow balls will be deflected by the rollovers.

#8568 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Ok good to know. Thanks.
For the Toto outlane, i feel like the second "t" is always passed by due to deflection unless its rolling fairly quick..

Quoted from fnosm:

This is probably why you can use your flippers to select which button is blinking.

This. And, it is also a nudge game. You need to nudge the pin a bit to get all Toto rollovers lit in one pass.

#8601 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I need to take a look at where my posts are in the outlanes, especially the left outlane. I checked my audits a few weeks ago and noticed how often TNPLH ball save is successful. I was stunned to see something like 3 successful saves out of maybe 200+ attempts. I have the settings on that ball save at easy, with a full minute to complete, with extra time awarded for shots made. I still drain 95% of the time before saving my ball. The only times I’ve saved it, it was by allowing progress to be saved and trying with a 2nd or 3rd ball. (I know, play better). I’m an ok player, especially on my own pins. Do others have this much trouble with the left ball save?

I’ve completed it only a handful of times, and I’m not sure I’ve ever done it on my first ball. TOTO is much easier. But since the ball is supposed to drain through an outlane, any chance to keep playing and save it, regardless of difficulty, is better than nothing. I just think of it as an extremely hard mini game that you get to play on the side.

#8613 4 years ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

I've just had the Throne room VUK opto's stopped working. Having switched connectors around on it's opto board I'm confident the opto's themselves are working and the fault is somehow on the board just involving the Throne room VUK connection at J7. Anyone seen this, solved this previously or have any idea how to fix it?

You can swap opto boards to check if it really is the board vs some other problem.

#8620 4 years ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Hey sorry to ask but the only issue I've ever had consistently with my WoZ, and it's been this way since day 1, is I can never get the shooter rod properly lined up to always have clean and predictable shots. The upside here is it makes the sill shots extremely easy to make as 9 out of 10 balls never make it much past the first flipper opening so nailing the witch on almost every ball is easy... However... I'd like to correct this for fairness reasons and I saw a post that someone pointed out to me regarding adding felt to the shooter lane so I bought the felt but now can't find the post...
Could someone help me find the felt post or provide any other recommendations on how I can get my WoZ to shoot properly all the time, every time?
Thanks,
Jeff

I’m the one who posted the picture with where to place the felt. You can search under my name in this thread. If you can’t find it, let me know.

#8651 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I bought my NIB WOZ in 2016, it was born in late 2015. It has the 1.1 boards, after they went from 5.0 to 7.5 volts I believe. But I don’t think mine are 2.0. They say 1.1 on them. I have about 700 plays on it, without any issues thus far. I am concerned that the 2.0 kit might become limited or difficult to get. It’s not cheap to buy the entire set of boards I imagine. I wish I had more clarity on how reliable the version 1.1, 7.5v boards are. I hear people have had issues, and others have had none. Difficult to gauge.

It’s a bit of a crap shoot, with some people reporting that they have had no or minimal issues and some reporting many issues. You have been lucky so far, but odds are you will have a problem with at least a board at some point. For some, when the problems start, they just seem to continue. The most reliable board set, and the one that will continue to be supported going forward is the 2.0. I would say it depends upon whether you want to keep your game for the long haul. If you do, upgrading makes sense. If you think you will just keep it for another year or so before selling, then you could risk it.

#8654 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Are these 2.0 light board kits available anywhere still? Jersey Jack is sold out.

Email them. They probably just have a waiting list, but I’m sure more kits will be available soon.

#8664 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

As others have pointed out the biggest flaw in this plan is that if any of the boards in the new kit are defective and you wait a year to install it they very well may not believe you and cover it under warranty.

Quoted from Gwpin:

I had a defective board in the kit. I was glad I didn’t wait. It does happen.

Yep. I had two boards that needed to be replaced. Better to do the swap sooner rather than later.

Quoted from PinMonk:

No soldering. Some cutting and routing wires. Drilling a little. It's very basic work, and the instructions are pretty refined now, so it shouldn't be that bad. I split it up over a few hours a day. 100% recommended conversion.
Here's the current instructions (click on pictures to load PDF). Pretty basic stuff. A lot OF it, but basic.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow! Those look a lot nicer and more refined than the original ones. Well done, Butch and JJP!

#8672 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

It seems a bit puzzling to me that JJP acknowledged they built and shipped pins (mine was built Nov, 2015) with a faulty light system, corrected the problem with a new 2.0 system, but requires $800 from the buyers to fix it. Wouldn’t offering the fix kit to original buyers at JJP’s cost be fair? Especially since we still have to invest the labor? Just a thought.

They are selling it at cost and put a lot of time into developing the kit in the first place. If they gave everyone the kit for free, everyone would take one. Why not? Lets say there are 2,000 WOZs with the old system. That would be a $1.6 million cost for JJP. Let’s say there are 3,000. That would be $2.4 million. I’m not sure what the actual numbers are, but the out of pocket expense adds up quickly. JJP is not Apple. Smaller companies can’t always afford to do what larger companies can. I think it is amazing that JJP took the time in putting together the kit in the first place and offering support for those who need to do it. When you see the kit, you will realize it was no trivial task putting it all together.

#8695 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

You think it's "amazing" jjp took the time to put the kit together? Are you serious? The company releases what appears to be a broken design and instead of fixing it they put the responsibility on the consumer to not only make the change themselves but pay for it too.
Isn't it amazing too that jjp will increase the price!..... What a company
Seriously only in pinball would this even stand. I'm part of the problem too. I'm still buying from jjp and have a WoZ bc it's a great machine (light issue free this far) but I would never say anything positive about how this was handled. They should be offering it for free. 800 is not their cost....regardless of what the "insiders" say.

I definitely see where you're coming from, and perhaps my language was too strong. I've been thinking about this a lot lately with all of the threads that have been popping up legitimately complaining about one issue or another. And, I just wonder if pinball would be a sustainable business if it was operated any other way. My main point is that while I agree with everyone that in an ideal world a manufacturer would offer a fix like this for free, pinball is not an ideal world. You have much smaller companies, and when something goes wrong, it costs a huge amount to fix. Paying for the cost of supplying 2000-3000 user kits could perhaps sink a company. I have no idea what the exact cost is, but I just don't see them making a profit off of these kits. And, I have no idea what their financial statements look like. But, if you add the light board issues up with everything else they have to deal with, I just wonder if it is a choice between putting some expense on the user or staying in business. Again, I have no idea, and I don't want to make assumptions. But, I want JJP to stay in business. I feel like they have been more than fair to me as a company. They replaced my old light boards for free well after the warranty ran out. They probably would still be doing it. I chose to upgrade to have a more reliable system. Again, I would have different expectations of Apple than I do JJP. I guess that is my only point.

#8707 4 years ago

Maybe we should get back to the positive. I did like that Google Easter egg rai posted about.

2 weeks later
#8771 4 years ago
Quoted from Thot:

Is there a way to end a crystal ball mode without lose a ball? And continue normal game with these two balls?

No.

#8780 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

so I'm clear on the strategy to progress in the game to see everything but just curious - what is the strategy for just highest points?

It’s all about stacking. The most lucrative stack is to combine Munchkin frenzy with a multiball (EC or Rescue or both if you can swing it) with a crystal ball mode for 2x scoring. The frenzy points really add up. Just remember that they are awarded during the bonus so don’t tilt!

If you can get to Haunted Forest MB and stack that with a crystal ball mode, that can also yield huge points.

It is worth figuring out what stack combinations you can get to and how lucrative they can be. It is hard to always make things come together, but when they do, the game can really come alive, and the points are crazy.

2 weeks later
#8928 4 years ago

The instructions for replacing the battery are in the manual. Find them and follow them. I believe they are in section E if I'm not mistaken. You need to use some masking tape to ensure you get the battery out without dropping it. Also, (something the instructions don't say), mind the whirring fan blade. I cut my finger when I did it.

#8949 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

My 2.0 upgrade kit is almost there, hopefully it arrives tonight so I can get on it this weekend. I am scared, the task looks daunting, but I'm excited !

Honestly, the scariest part is when you cut the first data cable and realize there's no going back. After that, it is just following step by step instructions. Definitely take Lloyd's advice and take a break if you need to. I spread it out over three weekends -- six days -- and took plenty of breaks.

1 week later
#8979 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

(and hid the cutting pliers right after in case he woke up early this morning and felt like « helping » me more.

You are a very wise person!

#9032 4 years ago

Just curious, but are these new RR's coming with the monkey mech? I heard that they were, but I'm not sure I ever saw a definitive answer.

#9037 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Yes, they come with the Monkey! They are part of the original 1,500.
The only thing I believe I didn’t receive was the Color Owners Manual. They should drop the item from the list if they are not going to include it and the price by $100. I would have liked to have it, personally.

Contact them and see if they’ll send it to you.

#9038 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I broke one of these rubbers. Any idea what they are called and where to find them ?[quoted image]

Those things are cursed. I would just ask them to send you a replacement or two . . . or three. I’m sure they will.

#9042 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Yeah Ill try that. I put the playfield back, the led board is wiggly but at least I can finish the 2.0 job.
That munchkin pf is a hassle to take off, I thought it would be a breeze after the castle one but it was the opposite.

Having done both the Munchkin and castle playfields twice now, I’m not sure which one is harder. I do know that when I did my 2.0 conversion, I spent about 30-45 minutes trying to get that @#$* rubber stand off through the hole in the rainbow plastic. I eventually waxed the tip and twisted it through. But first I tried pulling it with a needle nose pliers and got similar results as you. .

#9051 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I took a small screw driver and pushed the tip up on one side from below and then it snapped into position. 5 seconds.
LTG : )

I tried every small pointy thing I could find to get that stand off in. I don't know why it was so difficult, but it was.

2 weeks later
#9230 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

So that’s how JJP puts all these little rubber pieces without breaking them ! They come with a guide.[quoted image]

Ha! That’s awesome. That would have saved me some time. Can you buy them from their website? I might have to get a few spares.

1 week later
#9272 4 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

I think I’m giving up trying to sell my old 7.5v boards as a lot. At $250 it doesn’t seem like it’s a bad price point, right? So I’m guessing that it’s something else. Maybe that the one large board that’s not working is the fish shaped one in the middle? I dunno. If there’s still no movement in the next day or so, I’m going to put them on the market here and on EBay individually to make random, single board failures easy to fix and waaaay cheaper than buying a board from JJP or buying a complete used set.

Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Interesting - someone else suggested that it was a buffered/unbuffered issue making buyers shy. My understanding is different regarding buffered/unbuffered boards. Both are prone to failure. JJP started with the 5v system. When problems arose, they went to a 7.5v system. When the same problems continued, they tried the buffered 7.5v boards. When the same problems continued, they went to the 2.0 system. To my understanding, the reason JJP sells the buffered 7.5v boards in their online store is simply because that is the last model that was in production. 7.5v buffered and unbuffered are fully interchangeable and compatible. Both are prone to failure (as are the original 5v boards). The bigger issue is the flawed daisy chain design of all the pre-2.0 systems that wreak havoc with everything downstream in the event of just one single diode even partially going out. Frankly, given how much work installing the 2.0 system was AND having to pay $800 for a product that resulted in a dimmer game, I wish I had bought a couple used boards myself rather than investing so heavily in a full conversion.

I don’t think buffered vs non-buffered would affect value. I sold my set for $300, but everything worked except one small GI board. It took a little while to sell though. I think $250 is fair given a major board is not working. I think you may just be running into an issue of there being fewer and fewer people who want the old boards as more people do the conversion or buy old sets from others. I sold mine a while ago so the number of potential purchasers was likely larger. And, if people do want to buy a full set still, many may want all of the big boards to work.

Selling the boards individually is probably not a bad idea in your case.

1 week later
#9312 4 years ago

So, after hearing lots of people complain about the dimness when switching to 2.0 lighting -- something I had kind of noticed before but didn't think it was that significant -- I decided to increase the LED strength to High in the settings to give it a try. I actually think it makes a big difference. It doesn't affect the GI, but the inserts do seem much more vibrant. I would definitely recommend doing it. As for the GI, it does appear to be a bit dimmer as well, but I don't play in total darkness so it doesn't bother me too much. Still, it would be nice to have a similar adjustment in the settings.

#9324 4 years ago

I’ve only noticed a slight dimming, not to the extent that others seem to report after doing the 2.0 conversion. Are you guys sure your GI lights are all correctly centered on the tubes? I know I am off center on a few.

#9330 4 years ago
Quoted from Dashmonster:

The only issue on the playfield is a rubber on the small flipper has a defect and deep cut into it. No big deal. Going to order a replacement set anyways if you have any suggestions?

Titan silicone rubbers on all the flippers. You won’t regret it.

Quoted from Dashmonster:

JJ has put the manual on CD rom now instead of print. I hate this. I am sure I’m not alone in liking the pages to flip through. Who has a CD rom anymore anyways!

Did you buy new? I’m pretty sure you get a printed manual with it, but JJP may have to send it to you. Contact them.

Quoted from Dashmonster:

There is no way anyone in my house is going to melt the witch anytime soon.

You’ll do it eventually. When I played regularly, I got to the battle the witch mode a few times a month. I melted her 3-4 times a year. It is one of the greatest modes in pinball and enormously satisfying when you do it thanks to all of the lighting effects, use of assets on the screen and resulting victory mode.

#9366 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Curious question...I have two drilled out holes on one of my ramps and nothing attached to this location. This is on a brand new RR.
Can anyone tell me what they are for or what they were once used for?[quoted image]

That's how Toto breathes when you lock him away for being a bad dog.

1 week later
#9417 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

But they have been pried loose for $500, for people in a hurry.

That’s insane. I mean, it’s really nice, but for $500 I would want the monkey to come off, run around the playfield, and battle the witch for you.

#9420 4 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

You mean $1k?
To be clear, that video shows a prototype. The final version doesn’t flap its wings nearly as much because different springs were used.

I meant for $500. It is a great looking mod, but I can't see spending $500 on any type of mod.

Then again, I did get a RR over a Standard. . . .

#9446 4 years ago
Quoted from chalkup8:

I haven't got the special award in many many plays.Is it just a matter of completing the letters 'wizard' for the throne room more often ?
I searched the menu looking for a % feature like what you have with the end of game score match to no avail.
The special feature give such a great effect when it happens.

Getting Special is very rare. Only happens to me every once in a while. Definitely not often.

#9476 4 years ago
Quoted from billycrna:

Before I start tearing apart my Woz to diagnose these issues, I thought I'd post about it here first. While playing over the holiday break with my nephew, the machine would randomly lose power to the flippers. Once the ball drained, Rescue multiball would start (just for a moment), the winged monkey would come halfway down and then go back up and then the drained ball sequence would start, showing scores and such. Any ideas where to start with this madness? Thank you!

Start by going into switch test mode and see if all switches are working properly.

#9520 4 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Annnnddd. fixed!!
Was a good working session with my son and now the monkey is flying as an angel.
2.1 sec for each travel, robust and steady.
I'm so happy to have this fixed.
The black plastic was completely dead on the rod side, I get why It was no longer able to move the rod.[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! Congrats.

1 week later
#9572 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I have an issue once in a while where my ball gets stuck under the munchkin playfield. I cant see what it gets hung up on. A little rocking of the machine back and forth sets it free... Anyone have any ideas?

Mine does this when the balls get a little magnetized. Replacing the balls seems to help.

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