Bought the pinball life one labeled as JJP and it works perfectly. Correct connector. Just fyi for anyone looking.

I have a couple of issues:

1) I have an issue with my Crystal Ball. It permanently displays the "skill shot" image, and it is static. Other videos play overtop of this static image during gameplay. Is it a screen issue or an SD card issue? I've opened a ticket with JJP. Thanks!

2) My drop target does not work because the microswitch fell off the mechanism. I looked at the manual and I don't understand how this is attached normally. Is it 2 screws into the microswitch attaching it to the metal bracket? Pics attached.

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I shouldn't be doing this. ( seeing as how today would have been my tenth anniversary doing jjp's tech support )

LTG : )

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Thanks LTG . Love ya. I'm missing that whole switch bracket then! Crap.

I did some searching. Manual page C-26 part # 18-7010-00 1 Bank Drop Target Switch Assembly

I didn't find just that. Pinball Life has the whole drop target assembly if you search their site.

Manufacturers probably buy that assembly whole to stick in the machine, so I doubt anyone has just the parts you are missing. Unless someone junked one.

LTG : )

The tab that holds the switch looks like its there, you are just missing the protective plastic cover for the switch.

Item 2d in the manual, though you can fab one up pretty easy, or leave it off. It will still work fine.

All you need right now are 2 of the 2-56 x 1/2" screws and a 2-56 nut plate, then you can assemble it.

The missing parts are likely in the bottom of the cabinet somewhere.

Vacuum it out with e clean shop-vac and check all around the speaker and magnet.

I have vacuumed out tons of lost small parts over the years.

Thanks - I have checked thoroughly but I realized that the metal cpu box in the bottom has space underneath it... meaning that's probably where they are. Is that a pain to remove? Can I just remove the 2 black handles and tilt it up to check under?

Yep.

The handles are for the lid.

Screws and nut plates are available from all the regular sources.

Its handy to have a couple spares, they do get lost.

Any little cut of plastic can be used as a shield.

If you have a Telescoping Magnetic Pick-Up Tool you can try sliding it under.
Also look to see if they stuck to the magnet on the speaker.

I agree. You can buy the screws at Home Depot or similar. Make sure to put something non conductive between the switch and metal plate (note that blue paper in my pic). You could probably use thin cardboard like from the back of a notebook, etc. That plexi window thing doesn't look too important. Maybe more cardboard? Or nothing?

Oh I see that little metal bar is the "nut" to hold the two switch screws. You could try just the nuts that come in with the screws.. but I guess that plexi holds the two screws thar certain distance apart.
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Nut plate to screw two 2/56ths by 5/8th" screws into - https://www.pinballlife.com/twin-nut-plate.html

Screws you might find at a hardware store or hobby shop. Check Ebay for them, United States.

LTG : )

You are all awesome - thanks so much for your help. I spoke to JJP and they're sending a replacement screen for my Crystal Ball - suspected burn-in is the cause.

I installed the precision flippers on my RR75WOZ. If others have installed, would be curious what you set flipper strength to? (Mine were on 22 (maybe from previous owner. ). I'm trying 18.

I'll add the shoes after I finish adjusting them.

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Interesting so many owners like the shoes. Cool… each to their own! One of my first orders of biz back when I got the game in 2014… order sparkle/red flipper bats from planetary and holster the flipper/shoes.

For me, looks better without

I actually Do like and did buy a set of the shoes... but I'm waiting till I play test these new flippers a bit before I install the shoes because the adjustments are on top (and will be under the shoes).

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LTG I watched the video, great information, but it appears I have a bigger issue than just jump starting the machine. Once I pulled the cover off and checked for lit LEDs on the IO board the lower ones were not lit. I checked all the fuses in that area by pulling them all out one at a time and checking their continuity and they all tested good.
So what's my next step? Is this a power supply issue?
Let me know,
Thanks Mike

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I suppose you could close the coin door or pull out the high power interlock switch and turn the LEDs on.

Won't help your problem though. I'd grab a meter and check what your power supply is putting out, see if it has issues.

LTG : )

Has anyone told you that you are awesome today LTG?

No. Thank you for the kind sentiment.

Was a time jjp thought so.

LTG : )

Thank you, boy do I feel stupid now. If it is a power supply issue, I am assuming that there appears to be two and are located at each end of the big box in the cabinet correct? Where do I find schematics on the power supply for testing? Sorry for newbie questions, I work mainly on Bally/Williams machines and this is the first JJP machine that I have worked on that is having issues.
Thanks Mike

Does your game have a big ATX computer power supply on the floor of the cabinet, behind the big metal box with all the boards ?

If not please post a picture of the boards inside the big metal box so we can help.

Manual has which board is which too.

LTG : )

Working on it Lloyd. Thanks for the help. It may not happen until the morning, but will follow up ASAP.

Lloyd it looks like I won't be able to get the pictures you requested until I get back to my friends house. He lives about an hour away and he is uncomfortable to rase the playfield, remove the cover and take the pictures. So it won't happen until next week when I return to work on it again. Thanks for your help and patience. Mike

If the game has the big, square, computer ATX power supply behind the metal box with the boards, you don't have to go any farther. Then check it's voltages.

LTG : )

Hey fellas, im in the market for a WOZ. Just a quick question to all you owners, for as much of the research I've been doing. What is the probability of the 7.5 light boards failing on theses machines, and are these light boards available should one fail?

Ive seen people convert to 2.0 light boards and I can't imagine the process it would be convert the machine to 2.0

Just looking for some insight before I make the final plunge in the next day or so.

I have had ZERO problems with my boards.

I also enjoy the MUCH brighter GI lighting on the 7.5v system, instead of the dimmer 2.0 system.

Personally, I will NEVER install the 2.0 system as may game is PERFECT without it.

Very likely to fail. Some people have gotten lucky and had zero issues; others have chased issues repeatedly.

I’m not that handy, and I converted to 2.0 after replacing light boards on the older system every winter. It’s not too bad, just time consuming. If you take it slow and follow the instructions step by step, not only will you have a rock solid game but also a real sense of accomplishment.

7.5V and zero issues here as well. I have a set of 2.0 boards but for similar reasons hesitant to install because of the dimmer lighting I hear of and no need to at this point.

Oddly, it’s been one of if not the most reliable machine I’ve owned all around.

I have had my WOZECLE for almost 10 years now (Oct. 24, 2013 build date) and haven't had any light board issues with the 7.5V light boards. Maybe I have been lucky as others have posted here that they have had problems.

I picked up complete set of working 7.5V light boards (used) as spare parts should any of my 7.5V light boards fail at some point. At $300 for a complete set it is worth it to me to have the spare light boards on hand should the need arise.

Several posters on here have already performed the 2.0 upgrade so you need to search this thread to read about their experiences with installing the 2.0 lighting upgrade kit to see if it is something that you feel is within your skill set to perform if you choose to go that route. It looks like JJP has the 2.0 lighting kits back in stock and ready to ship.

http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/WOZ-Lighting-Upgrade-Kit.html

Gord

I purchased a Woz with the 7.5 buffered boards and was repeatedly told there were no issues, they were solid, I shouldn't worry, he didn't have any issues, ever. Within the first 2 hours of play, whole segments of the lighting failed. I bought a set of used 7.5 boards (they're easy to find when people do the 2.0 upgrade), and I replaced the bad boards. I continued to get failures and continued to replace boards on a regular basis.

I finally had enough. I found a set of 2.0 boards and installed them. Zero issues since. Good luck, YMMV.

That’s just bad luck. Lol. I’ve had my ruby red since 2015 with 7.5 and zero issues. Have a spare 7.5 for backup and haven’t had to use them. (Knock on wood).

How do you tell if the machine has the 7.5 boards vs 2.0 boards?

2.0 uses a bunch of ethernet cables rather than data cables on the older system

Mine were perfect for about 4 years, then one day one kicked the can.

I installed 2.0. Anyone can do it, just time consuming. Biggest drawback is dimmer GI.

But, there’s a guy over in Europe that’s developed a fix/replacement for a the dimmer GI light boards. Should be selling/shipping soon.

Chips on 7.5 boards are no longer made…

Page C-54 in the manual shows the 7.5 or 5 volt system. Data cable.

Page E-24 in the manual shows the 2.0 system. With B.A.G. board and HUB board and thick ethernet cables all over.

Easy to tell them apart by looking under the playfield.

LTG : )

It's great that some 7.5 games have had no problems yet, but it's still a potential risk.

The old games running 7.5 are less desirable so the price should be cheaper.

Zero issues on my 7.5 since the RR was originally released. I did buy a spare set of 7.5 for peace of mind for only $300, so not worried really. Most 7.5 games are stable, and jjp techs confirmed that with me. The real problem was the 5-5.5v games prior to RR

It is pretty amazing how some people have never had an issue with the <2.0 boards. On my RR the small single-LED GI boards near the flippers and slings would fail often, taking out half the rest of the game's LEDs in seizure-inducing ways. I upgraded mine to 2.0 a couple years ago and I currently have three of those in the same / similar spots that won't display white anymore because they are each missing a color. I haven't bothered to replace them because it's relatively minor. My game gets played, but not a whole lot anymore, it's certainly never been routed or even close to that kind of hours on it.

Minor difficulties as well a Bag board failures with the 2.0 system.

I see it as a wash and not the silver bullet, as is often purported by a few pinsiders that it helped, to end all problems.

The vast majority of the games with 5v or 7.5v systems have been relatively trouble free, or at least as robust as any other pinball machine.

ALL platforms have their distinct as well as their inherited problems.

Made my own WOZ topper to go with the JJP POTC topper that my brother sent me... superdrummer20

I bought my RR nib. In 2014. 7.5 system, no problems. I did purchase a 2.0 system from JJP a couple of weeks ago, just in case. You never know, they might be gone, again. Mine is with me for keeps.

The problem is not that 7.5V leds are less reliable than in 2.0 Kit, the problem is the design of 1.x kits where each led has an associated driver chip and all driver chips are daisy chained. If one driver chip fails, all the leds downstream of the failed chip will render improper colors.

With 2.0 kit, no more daisy chaining, and if any led fails, it will not affect any other led. Game is still playable. Keep in mind that 2.0 leds are probably not more reliable than those in 7.5V kits and you may still have to replace a 2.0 board if you are not able to do micro soldering for replacing a failing led.

Yep, this is exactly why I prefer the 2.0 system - because even though I have a few GI LEDs that won't display white the game is 100% playable. When the 7.5 boards failed (twice when I was hosting people/league) I had to take the game out of service until I could replace the board.

This makes complete sense. However people can't be certain that they won't have problems with 2.0 either....Sterns have problems with Node boards failing...Should they all be discounted? All pins have problems and issues. If you as a consumer can't accept that then this hobby may not be for you. BTW this is not directed at you Bobukcat...Just used your statement.

The real problem is, the chips on 7.5 boards are no longer made. Of course, that will theoretically be the case for 2.0, some day, but that's not the case at them moment.

My plan had been to ride the 7.5 boards into the sunset, until I had a failure that took out the entire lower half of the playfield. I had a great chat with Butch (no longer there) at JJP, and decided to install 2.0. It's a game that I plan on keeping.

It’s just about 12 hours of work to do the swap, and time is money. Also, a lot of people who haven’t taken on a Pinball project of that magnitude may lack confidence in not messing it up.

I find it interesting that some people have had zero issues with 7.5 boards and others like me were plagued with problems. Probably no way to tell which group was the majority, but it is definitely a gamble. And, as people said, the 2.0 system is just better to deal with and much more reliable.

If you end up with 7.5v volt buffered boards, I am just finishing the 2.0 light swap and will be listing my old boards soon. Mine worked perfectly but I decided to do the swap anyways.

3D start button update -- I've discontinued the yellow/red swirl button (ref https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/284#post-7163880) due to reliability issues. I was never really fully satisfied with that design anyway, so I recently redesigned it and love the new version! I've been so busy I didn't get a chance to update it in my shop or post about it ... so here ya go.

Now instead of the swirl, the new design emulates a close-up of the yellow brick road! Each brick has slight curvature at its edges, giving it a realistic look, and I intentionally set up the gaps between the bricks to allow more light through (accentuating the brick pattern).

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The button base is printed in translucent yellow, while the brick is standard yellow -- which itself is translucent enough to fully light up the whole face of the button. The base, bricks, and text are all printed in a single continuous piece with mid-print filament changes to fuse all parts together. (This is where the prior design was problematic, as it was multiple assembled pieces that didn't really want to stay together. They weren't press-fit like some of my other designs.)

I did like the text from my original button, though, so I kept that. It reads "Off to see The Wizard" in WOZ themed font, printed in a sparkly green to represent the Emerald City. The text can also be printed in a sparkly deep red to represent the Ruby Slippers.

Updated button available in my shop at https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/07274-3d-start-button-wizard-of-oz

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Looking for a little help on 2.0 kit install. I am on step 21. I am unsure of which cables I am to plug the 5v Y adapter into. It says disconnect 4pin black and red wire molex connector but the only one I see with black and red has yellow black and red on the other side of the connector.