Thats great- just snap appic if you would and shoot it to me

Yes, I did get the Lermods strip, very nice. I will post a picture of the plugin later today. It had instructions, but, not much to speak of. When they are both on, it is beautiful. I got mine in 2014, nib, lots of mods, this is by far the best.

I will send them to you through pm .

lermods sent me the install. will look up the video you suggested

Thanks for the help- got it in and working. Now if I can locate a flying monkey

They do pop up for sale at insane prices and sell within minutes. I know.. That’s how I got one.

i understand there is a different version on its way from someone with lots of more options and a remote for lighting and colors and more,I have been wanting one for ages and and very happy someone else decided to fill the void!

Any info on who or if there is a list to sign up for one?? I’m definitely interested in a flying monkey mod as well.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/evil-flying-monkey-mod-the-mechanical-marvel-wizard-of-oz-by-pm

I got my self all set up to do the 2.0 light upgrade kit. I was wondering if I should try to save the wiring or just do what the manual says and cut the ends off. I was gonna sell the 7.5v boards after. Is there really any reason to save the wiring or are buyers just after the boards themselves.

Save the wires. It's not that hard at all to remove all the prior wiring; there is a market for these cables as they occassionaly go bad. I've sent out several to other owners.

Just go step by step and remove the wires intact also- cleaner install. I sold mine with the boards and they may come in handy for some. Take your time and youll be fine.

def a small market for boards and wiring on the 7.5

Bit of 2.0 help please. This board will show green when game powers on, then a red fuse status light when a game is started. After playing a bit it behaves normally. Turn the game off - it goes green for a bit again. On LED test - green with any single LED test, but goes red again when all activated. Any ideas why?

881AE10A-82E0-4900-8DC4-03913F45EDDB (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpg

PS just started doing this, been fine for past year or so.

Can you switch the power connector with another board? That will help diagnose the issue. Often, when problems like this arise after a period of time, it's cracked solder joints. (That board is close to the pop bumpers, among the most active of the coils, which can over-time fatique these joints). Your symptoms are consistent with this (when starting a game, it goes bad; this indicates to me that when coils fire, etc., its interupting something on the board).

I'd look very carefully at the power board connector solder joints on the board. Reflow these with a soldering iron if you can (or hot-air workstation). More than once, this has solved intermittant problems on pins for me.

Response from JJP finally that WOZ and Wonka hinges are different with a drawing sent. Wondering if Wonka one would be able to made to fit on WOZ. Otherwise looks as if having a new one made might be best option.

10-000013-00 Playfield Slide Support Brkt.pdf

10-000013-01 Playfield Slide Support Brkt.PDF

That was very kind of them to send you the prints!

Draw it up in FreeCad and have sendcutsend make it for you if JJP doesnt have it.

Its a quick drawing to make.

Good idea but the fact that it comes good midway through a game is what confuses me. I'll check anyway, thanks

Quick question on Invisiglass and all the other non-glare glass. Is it treated on both sides, or just the side with the insignia? I'm guessing it's both sides, but just figured I'd ask. Thanks !

Update on this. The problem is very intermittent but annoying. Sometimes right when you start a game, the ball enters the shooter lane and then the winkie guard music starts and the doors open and the vuk ejects and the doors close and it may repeat a lot or not. It does it randomly at any time during gameplay. In switch test, all the switches work as expected. In the vuk opto test, you disrupt the opto, and it repeats this cycle 1 time (doors open, vuk fires, doors close). I discovered something I believe is related. With machine on and playing, I lifted playfield when vuk was behaving properly. The vuk opto connects to the brown opto plug underneath. If I unplug that connector from the opto board, the machine will do THE SAME THING going through that cycle repeatedly! If I plug it back in, it stops. This makes me think either the plug wasn't in good or there's a bad wire, or bad solder joint either on the opto or opto board plug, or could this be a bad opto? How do I best determine what's wrong? (First, I'm going to play a while and see if just reseating this brown plug fixes it. Oh please ). Any idea? Thank you.

My auto-plunge mechanism gets weak after launching a few balls and can not make it up the ramp to get into play. This behavior just started up in the last few days and is getting progressively worse. The mech is actually moving slowly when this is happening like it doesn't have enough power. I've gone into the settings and bumped up the power with no change resulting from doing that. I've checked that nothing is binding with it and that the two sides of the bracket are both touching the ball and are centered on the channel.

Does anybody have any suggestions? If a suggestion is to check the power to the coil, please tell me how to do that. I've never done that before and would love to learn how.

Thanks!

Pull it apart and clean it all with naptha.

Check the coil stop (file it flat or replace it) and clean or replace the coil sleeve.

I have had mine 9 years and it just did this. I moved the coil until it worked freely. Turns out it moved out of position on its own. A simple bend put it back working great.

Sorry so long in responding. Thank you for the info! Had never heard of FreeCad before.

Thank you! I have a working auto launch again.

I like FreeCad.

Its fun and easy to use, and perfect for small or simple parts.

I especially like the sheetmetal workbench. One can reproduce any missing or impossible to get steel part.

Plus, its FREE !!!

While renovating my showcase in my business and removing things not needed for tech support anymore. I realized if I ever sell or trade my WOZ, I have lots of goodies to go with. A complete castle playfield on a factory wood stand, and complete spinning house playfield on a factory wood stand. A complete monkey mech, a complete smaug, a crystal ball. And other assorted parts.

I'm not planning on my WOZ leaving any time soon. When it is time to go it should make some good trade bait.

LTG : )

Have you cleaned those optos and ensured they are aligned properly / aren't loose? If so I would assume you have a failing / weak transmitter opto.

Yes I cleaned them a while ago with no improvement. I think there must be some kind of loose connection as it always seems to work when I test the opto.

Could be a loose connection or it could be a weak transmitter that's getting ready to fail.

If anyone is going to Pinfest in Allentown, I can bring all the original 5.0 boards from my WOZ ECLE that was converted over to the 2.0 kit.

I had an insert light issue before the conversion, but I don't know which board was giving me the problem before the fix.

I'm not sure what the value would be to anyone, but if interested message me. Thanks!

any chance someone has a spare, or know where i could by a red sparkly flipper? One of mine just broke, i could move the red shoe but i am not sure where i can find a replacement flipper...

Thanks!

maybe here:

https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Flipper-Parts/Flipper-Bat-and-Shaft-Assys/Flipper-with-Williams-Logo-red.html

interesting but not the same that wouldn't match with my one roginal left-

Since they dont make them any more, and PPS doesnt have then any more (they are a bit brittle and break), I would order 2 so they match.
Maybe get 3 as the upper right one is also sparkly from the factory.

JJP stopped making them due to the brittleness of the sparkly plastic. Under warranty they send out black flipper bats.

I ordered the factory green ones for my TH, they sent me black ones...

You could also get red bats, they look pretty good.

did the show completely break or just come off the bat?

yeah i still have my upper right one original so i may move it down and glue the red shoes on it. replace that one with a black one like the upper left one. And i can see why they stop using them, the plastic broke right through on my lower left, never had that with a standard WMS/Stern one.

I bought a few sets back when they were available, and have broken them all but one extra set.

They just dont hold up well.

I also put on black ones for awhile, they looked pretty good with red "Perfect Play" rubber on them.

For the moment, I have my last spakrly bats installed, with one cracked slipper on it, but the crack doesnt show.

They dont last forever, but sadly, nothing does...

I just saw the set at JJP parts site last week .

Pinballgoddess will have NOTHING but the sparkly ones.

They make her happy.

Hello WOZ owners.
I am trying to help a friend out that is having trouble with his WOZ not booting up. Once the machine is turned on you get a small note on the screen that says checking signal. Then the next message comes up HDMI no signal entering the power saving mode shorty. Then nothing.
What is the process to fix this?
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike

20230504_151044 (resized).jpg

20230504_151203 (resized).jpg

HDMI ports are hot swappable so i would just check the HDMI at the screen first and then at the computer. Unplug and reseat the cable. If that doesn't work try replacing the cable.

If you don't get the jjp splash screen the motherboard isn't starting up.

I'd start with this -

LTG : )

Thank you both for your help. Will try what you both suggested and report back.
Appreciate it very much.

Weird question. Does anyone know how to make the cool videos with the music following a game happen more often? It only happens once every 50 games or so.

Hello! I am probably very late to the party but I have a Wizard of Oz yellow brick Road version that is still set to 7.01. Is it worth updating to the newest/latest version of 7.04? Thanks in advance for any feedback.

yes.

Especially if they REMOVE the crappy Scorbit ad/nag screen.

Hi Jason,

I have the 7.04 version installed on my WOZECLE. To be honest I don't know what is all added so I have included the release notes below for your review.

Gord

==============================================================================
== Version 7.04 October 20, 2021 ==
== ISO MD5 Checksum: d994bb37b27c70e8b8116a7611b943f3 ==
== DELTA MD5 Checksum: 04e2471a132b67b7966e5d07f7bac85a ==
==============================================================================

- note: this is available in a "full" install release and
in a "delta" upgrade, which can be installed over v07.03

=== Game Code
+ Added achievements with Scorbit.
+ Integrated Scorbit Display Names into the user interface and HSTD entry.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements.

=== Core Code
+ Added hardware detection page in utilities menu.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements.

==============================================================================
== Version 7.03 June 1, 2021 ==
== MD5 Checksum: 73f926d2b2cbe031b87f5d209d9d00a5 ==
==============================================================================

- This is a new baseline ISO. This is not a delta update. Further updates
will use this version as a base.

=== Game Code

* Fixed glitch on the screen that shows up with Balls in Reserve.
* Fixed a bug in hurry-build shot lighter such that when all lit shots are
exhausted the next shot lit could've been one of the last shots lit.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements.

=== Core Code

+ Added WiFi and hard-wired networking. This allows for future online update
support. You'll need to install a WiFi dongle or hardwire the game to your
network for this feature to work.
+ Added the option to opt-in to Beta Network Updates.
+ Added initial Scorbit integration.
* Added Player Menu, accessing it by holding the right flipper button in
Attract Mode. This allows for connecting of Bluetooth headphones. You'll
need to install a Bluetooth dongle for this feature to work.
+ Added a shaker motor test.
+ added shaker motor option to Matrixed Switches Test to help find flaky
switches without having to pound on the playfield.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements.

==============================================================================
== Version 7.02 August 12, 2019 ==
== MD5 Checksum: b76b8c5c030db0aec65023864fe7958e ==
==============================================================================

- This is a new baseline ISO. This is not a delta update. Further updates
will use this version as a base.

=== Game Code

* Fix bug where ball plunges were awarding Horse of a Different Color awards.
* Enter initials: position is now filled with 'A' instead of blank after
doing a 'DEL'.
* Game length now shown on coin-in page.
* Fix small graphic glitch in HSTD award page when a credit award is given
(some text overlap).

=== Core Code

+ Added Utilities -> Dump Logs to diag menu. This can provide information to
the software department if there's a problem. Put a USB stick in for it to
work.
* Changed name column spacing for presets.
* Trough settle time reduced to 1/2 second.
* Autoplunger settle time reduced to 1/4 second on close.
+ Added Settings -> System -> General -> Player Addable adjustment which
controls when a player may be added to a game in reserve ball play.
(Setting is disabled and ignored when BALLS IN PLAY is on, which only
allows player adds during ball 1.) Can be set to ALWAYS or BEFORE LAST BALL
(the default). When set to BEFORE LAST BALL, a player can be added until
any player hits "Last Ball" status for the first time (even if they earn
additional balls). If the game is set to 1-ball play, the adjustment is
effectively treated as "ALWAYS."

Hi there - just picked up a WOZ and want to install a Shaker Motor. It looks like the one WOZ uses is different from other JJP games. Pinball life lists all of the JJP games except WoZ as compatible with their JJP shaker motor. Any idea on how I can obtain the correct one?

Order it from JJP directly.

Call them.