Well, I rotated the house to where it "should" be to open properly with it off and then turned it on. The test at 7/14 worked perfectly as usual. With glass off I shot a ball, caught it, spelled rainbow with my fingers and threw the ball up the ramp for twister. Let the ball go around the house the prescribed number of times and it opened the same as always. The house needs to be a bit more counter clockwise. So i went into the adjustment and set it to 11/14 (4 more counter clockwise). The test now makes the popper rod hit the front of the house. Retried the "game test" above, and now the house opens properly, but the test will be too far counterclockwise (by 4). Will it stay this way? Was I supposed to do something differently? Was I supposed to turn the house clockwise when off so the test result matches the gameplay result? Thanks again.

If you turn the house randomly, the game will set it to wherever it should be.

On start up the house spins a bit to center it.

then make adjustments, turn the game off, turn the house manually, let the game center it and so on.

It takes a few tries to get it right.

What the game thinks is centered and what the test thinks is centered are 2 different things.

Often when its real close (thru adjustments), you can turn the house manually with the game off and when it powers back on its perfect.

I had absolutely no idea that the house was supposed to open until I did my playfield swap and took everything apart. I guess I need to dial it in now that everything is back together.

Have a look under the playfield and see if there is anything loose that has to do with the mech. Is there something that holds onto the shaft of the house and if so is it tight? I’m not at my game but seem to remember seeing a post regarding this

What makes the house adjustment somewhat annoying is that what the game sees as centered and what the test thinks is centered, are 2 different things.

One has to get a "feel" for it.

Basically in test you have to adjust the door to open just slightly before it actually does.

It will hang at say 50 to 75% open as the peg will bind slightly in test.

Turning off the game and manually rotating the house, and letting the game center it will finish the adjustment.

Doing this a couple times will get it perfect.

If it changes down the road, manually turn the house and let the game center it again.

I worked on mine quite a bit to figure it out.

Mine seems to get out of place after every time I have it perfect. I just deal with it opening 90%. Too annoying to keep messing with.

Yep.

Try turning the house with the power off and have the game re-center it.

Then see how it works.

More than half the time, this can sort it out for a long time.

Thanks all for the help. I agree it's annoying. Next time I'm near it I'm going to check that the sensor interruptor is tight and will try some of these things. Thanks again.

Ok will do. Thanks for the tip

Does anyone know if there is a changelog or notes on the Beta releases? Just curious what all the Beta changes are.

There is a change log that comes when you perform the upgrade, which you can read during the update. For the latest Beta, it listed two changes: installation of a new OS, and addition of an audio graphic equalizer.

This problem has never been fixed. What I do is make adjustments in the menu then exit the menu (no need to power the machine off or physically turn the house). The game will cycle and the house will stop in a different spot from what you observed in the adjustments menu. This new point it stopped at is what you need to observe and make adjustments from. Its a total PITA but you can get it 90% or better.

There are two photo eyes that monitor slits cut into a disk mounted under the house. One is to monitor the home position (this is how it finds home even if you did physically turn the house by hand), the other is tracking the rotation of the house. Its kind of like an encoder with a home position.

Thank you DiabloRush I just installed the Beta 6 and Beta 7. I was more curious what changes came with the previous Beta releases or if they were already incorporated into the standard official ver. 7.4 release.

This issue is resolved thanks to this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/strange-random-woz-behavior

It was a short in the Crystal Ball connector....

I’m trying to adjust the rescue stand up targets to make them more sensitive, but can’t really get to them without taking off the upper playfield. Unless any of you guys know a trick?

Instead of taking the upper playfield off, I was wondering if replacing the target foam with a “less thick” foam would also accomplish greater sensitivity. What do you guys think?

Is there an easier way to adjust these targets other than taking the playfield off?

Turn the game off. Lift playfield and pull forward and rest it on the front of the cabinet.

Flashlight helps here. Long thin screw driver, stick it in there and try to bend the shorter rear leaf blade closer to the front longer leaf blade.

LTG : )

Thanks. I had it lifted and was trying to finagle a leaf adjustment tool in there but could only somewhat get to one of the targets. I’ll try the screwdriver

Catching up on all the LED board issues, how concerned should I be that when I raise the playfield, most of the playfield is flickering or just out when I set it back in place? When I raise it back up to check underneath it always becomes fully functional. If I set it back down carefully it will operate normally with no issues, but the fact that it does this leads me to believe a problem is on the horizon. I checked for loose connections but everything seems tight. I have the 7.5 V1.1 boards

Loose connection. Keep checking

Wal-nut connectors loose in the big bundle of wires. They are truly CRAP.

I replaced all of them on my game with lev-r-lock style off of amazon.

Are those the small, clear, hard plastic connectors towards the rear of the playfield?

Yeah, there are a ton of them.

On my game, if you lifted the big hoses, the playfield lamps would turn off in complete sections.

Under careful examination, I found that loose wires in the Wal-nuts would kill the power.

Oddly, wal-nuts are NOT rated for stranded wire, and they provide a loose connection.

Some of the wires simply fell out of the connectors as they were very loose.

Lev-r-lock style connections are extremely positive, and rated for stranded wire.

It takes awhile to change them out, but it does provide a much better connection to the power source.

The cheaper "knock off" ones from amazon work as well, or better, than the more expensive "Wago" ones.

Thanks, that sounds like my issue exactly, but I was looking for loose connections on the boards but they were all tight. Switching to lever lock doesn't seem too big of a deal.

It goes pretty fast as most of the wires will probably just fall out.

Will you post a picture or your wires with the Lev-R-Locks ?
I'd love to see what it looks like and get a better idea of the scope of the project.

I was thinking about putting side blades or mirror blades on but the playfield seems really tight against the cabinet compared to my other machines. Anyone have issues with this?

I would not be able to fit them on mine.

I did mirror blades and there was plenty of room. But I did not get the wow factor as on other games as the upper playfields block a lot of the mirror

I did yellow brick road from tilt graphics, helps, no issues. Check their site, they have more.

I have side blades on mine. Its tight. Make sure to use those side protectors..

I have been horrible at putting on side blades but found that the wet method made it much easier.

For those that have installed Gouveia’s witch 1.0 mod, are we supposed to re-use the spacer in between the witch and bracket?

How about the large round metal spacer that sat under the tube?

Anyone out there or are you laying in the poppy field? Lol

Probably quicker to just PM Steve and ask him for the link to the youtube installation video.

Grade A chance to melt the witch. Once I got shot to winkie target couldn't get control on setting up ramp shot . Time expired before I could set up second chance at winkie. Anyway got number 1 score over 1,400,000.

Entered my wife's initials. Great game.

Tried that. Anyway common sense prevailed and went with no spacer behind witch and yes to metal bracket under the wall

I installed the JJP Official art blades from Pingraffix. I think they look amazing. They fit just fine in my 75th Anniversary Ruby Red.

https://www.pingraffix.com/single-post/2019/04/05/official-wizard-of-oz-pinblades

Nice! Welcome!

Yeah, it's pretty incredible what art blades can add to some games, they really can make a world of difference.

I am helping a user with a first gen Woz and will be working with jjp support and the manual etc to resolve lighting board issues.

That being said, if it's not something I can resolve in a few hours I'm considering directing the user to a 2.0 lighting board kit.

However, I have also considered development of a current limiting light board pcb, and allegro chip replacement sets I've seen on yt.

I am capable of replacing smd components and connectors.

Am I barking up the wrong tree?

For those who have taken the plunge, what was the most fruitful course of action?

Heads up to WOZ owners. Someone just found some Gouveia WOZ mods that were never installed.

You’re welcome

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whats-fs-in-maryland-right-now-maryland-fs-thread/page/326#post-7385976

If anyone has this plexi topper laying around pls pm me. This summer when I revived my EC the shippers somehow lost the topper?!? I haven’t come across one and the mount and red/green pulsing led strip is on the backbox -it just needs the plexi to complete it. THX

C2A6C39F-40DB-4210-85CC-89C507E28849 (resized).jpeg

The left hinge on the playfield on my WOZ broke. Basically game is unplayable as there's no way for the playfield to not fall into cabinet. JJP since these are no longer available. Anyway have ideas of something I could substitute so the playfield can be put upwards when game being worked on. And in it's normal position for game play?

Do what now?

Can we see a
Picture

https://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-17749-1-2

https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-A-17749-1-1

https://www.videoengine.com/pins/tz/tzpix/pix12.htm

Something like this ?

LTG : )

I'm picturing a peg thing that has separated from its bracket thing.

Weld it back on.