I don’t have all the red lights on that my pirates has
Quoted from Clint12:I don’t have all the red lights on that my pirates has
Coin door closed or high power interlock switch pulled out enabling high power ?
If so, next step check that all four connectors are firmly pressed on the high power interlock switch.
LTG : )
Chances are the backup battery on your cpu board went dead or it had an irregular shut down. There is a video on JJP website on how to diagnose/fix.
It appears my flippers are causing enough vibration to intermittently cause the I/O Board Communication Error. Any particular connections to check that may be loose? I did reseat every connection on the I/O board. I did rebuild 4 flippers (all except the castle) - any connection near those I may have inadvertently loosened?
Quoted from Clint12:Reboot fixed it
a simple reboot without anything else fixed your issue?
Quoted from WarriorPin:any connection near those I may have inadvertently loosened?
I doubt that.
I suspect working on the playfield pulled cables from it to metal box with all the boards.
I'd turn the game off, take the cover off of the metal box. Grab the bundles of wires on both sides of the connectors, one side in each hand. And shove them together.
See if that tightens things up.
LTG : )
Quoted from DiabloRush:There's new Beta software available for WOZ. This update comes in 2 parts, both dated Dec. 15, 2022. The first is beta 6, which "updates the updater" and the second is beta 7, which installs a new operating system. You'll only see beta 6 until its installed, then check for updates again and beta 7 will be available. FYI.
Any idea an ETA? I didn't see it in the download section.
Quoted from DiabloRush:There's new Beta software available for WOZ. This update comes in 2 parts, both dated Dec. 15, 2022. The first is beta 6, which "updates the updater" and the second is beta 7, which installs a new operating system. You'll only see beta 6 until its installed, then check for updates again and beta 7 will be available. FYI.
Is there a reason for a new operating system? Why fix it if it ain't broke?
What features are being added to compel an upgrade?
Quoted from RTS:Is there a reason for a new operating system? Why fix it if it ain't broke?
What features are being added to compel an upgrade?
Graphic equalizer. Audio feature obviously.
Quoted from apinballwiz:Any idea an ETA? I didn't see it in the download section.
Set your game up for WiFi. Opt into the Beta stuff in settings. Then go to Network Settings, download update.
LTG : )
I added the flame pots around wizard today, and afterwards the wizard doesn’t seem lit as green as before. I checked light strip is under acrylic as much as possible, but still not lit as bright. Can someone confirm that the etched face should be on backside of acrylic or is it towards the front? Also, are green lights supposed to be completely under acrylic or slightly behind it?
Quoted from konghusker:I added the flame pots around wizard today, and afterwards the wizard doesn’t seem lit as green as before. I checked light strip is under acrylic as much as possible, but still not lit as bright. Can someone confirm that the etched face should be on backside of acrylic or is it towards the front? Also, are green lights supposed to be completely under acrylic or slightly behind it?
Etched side is on the back
The little LED strip fits where it fits. Hopefully covered my the acrylic....
Quoted from pinballinreno:Etched side is on the back
The little LED strip fits where it fits. Hopefully covered my the acrylic....
Yeah, that’s how I have it back together. Was wondering if the new fire pots wash out the green
Quoted from konghusker:I added the flame pots around wizard today, and afterwards the wizard doesn’t seem lit as green as before. I checked light strip is under acrylic as much as possible, but still not lit as bright. Can someone confirm that the etched face should be on backside of acrylic or is it towards the front? Also, are green lights supposed to be completely under acrylic or slightly behind it?
The original OEM strips are pretty fragile. Mine also went dim like this after I removed it. I could wiggle it and it would occasionally brighten, but I couldn't get it to stay that way. I ended up ordering a new one from JJP. Just FYI.
Quoted from DiabloRush:The original OEM strips are pretty fragile. Mine also went dim like this after I removed it. I could wiggle it and it would occasionally brighten, but I couldn't get it to stay that way. I ended up ordering a new one from JJP. Just FYI.
My wizard throne room LED strip also flaked out a few years ago and I had to order a replacement from JJP. Looks so nice with the new one in there!
Quoted from darkryder:My wizard throne room LED strip also flaked out a few years ago and I had to order a replacement from JJP. Looks so nice with the new one in there!
I just had to replace mine as well.
Quoted from woodmedic:I just had to replace mine as well.
I submitted a ticket. I couldn’t find them on the store anywhere
Quoted from konghusker:I submitted a ticket. I couldn’t find them on the store anywhere
I did the same. They responded quickly and I had the part within a week.
Quoted from Clint12:The one battery up in top compartment?
The battery is in the metal box on the PC motherboard.
Quoted from CrashJT:The battery is in the metal box on the PC motherboard.
If it's a Yellow Brick Road version, it will be in the backbox under a metal cover above the I/O board.
LTG : )
New Year, treat your WOZ to a New Header.
Only a few left.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1164-mod-magic/05828-woz-header-mod-professor-marvel-upper-speaker-plaque
Huge difference with the new wizard green led strip! Just wanted to say Ken at jjp support responded to my ticket really fast and got my new part out next day. Thanks, and great job jjp.
Also, added the Glenda figure as well today. Really liking the monkey and Glenda figures here.
1D7CE64C-BDB9-48D0-BFC9-D794A88645CD (resized).jpegAF29BFBF-F86E-471F-9329-017FB90CFF11 (resized).jpegQuoted from konghusker:Huge difference with the new wizard green led strip! Just wanted to say Ken at jjp support responded to my ticket really fast and got my new part out next day. Thanks, and great job jjp.
Also, added the Glenda figure as well today. Really liking the monkey and Glenda figures here.
Where did you find the figures?
Quoted from darkryder:My wizard throne room LED strip also flaked out a few years ago and I had to order a replacement from JJP. Looks so nice with the new one in there!
Quoted from konghusker:I submitted a ticket. I couldn’t find them on the store anywhere
Quoted from woodmedic:I did the same. They responded quickly and I had the part within a week.
Looks like mine is out too, so do I just need to call Jersey Jack?
I couldn't find a replacement part but I think it would be as easy as splicing this in as a replacement:
Quoted from Bohm:Looks like mine is out too, so do I just need to call Jersey Jack?
I couldn't find a replacement part but I think it would be as easy as splicing this in as a replacement:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?_pos=1&_sid=d9713673e&_ss=r&variant=32219275690086
They sent me a bill for $10 shipped. I had to contact them since it’s not on the store. It is literally just green led strip so yeah, you could easily just make your own
Got my repaired 2.0 light board back from JJP today. I shipped the board out on December 9. Pretty much the worst time of the year for getting anything done quickly, so I feel like four weeks to the day including shipping both ways and factoring in the holidays is really good turnaround. They replaced one of the chips on the board. Repair cost $60 plus shipping one way. Good to know these boards are repairable. I’m back on the yellow brick road!
Hi guys. If I wanted to swap a new light board under the rainbow plastic, do I still need to remove the upper playfield or can I just unscrew the hex screws holding the plastic bracket on? Seems like I could since I am not running new wires. Just want to confirm
Quoted from Mattyk:can I just unscrew the hex screws holding the plastic bracket on?
I'd do that.
LTG : )
I have a RR75th anniversary and I've tuned the spinning house perfectly in the Test Menu, but during gameplay it always uses different settings and only opens 1/2 way. I'm on Ver RR7.04. Is there some other place where I need to set the values or is this a bug? Thanks.
Quoted from CrashJT:I have a RR75th anniversary and I've tuned the spinning house perfectly in the Test Menu, but during gameplay it always uses different settings and only opens 1/2 way. I'm on Ver RR7.04. Is there some other place where I need to set the values or is this a bug? Thanks.
Quoted from LTG:I'd play with settings so it fails in test but works great in game play.
LTG : )
Mine is also just variable. Doesn’t land in exactly the same place. Each spin a few mm different which can make a difference.
Changed out the cabinet flipper buttons from red to green to match the powdercoating. Also powdercoated the service rails black.
1627209A-57B9-4F31-8019-F7ACF9A6B748 (resized).jpeg72601427-E359-4194-9F0E-0BEE813D7E4E (resized).jpeg7ADB906C-3C39-4D87-9853-6A55F58AD44D (resized).jpeg92BBB888-4B38-4070-9303-D4638B774A4E (resized).jpegQuoted from LTG:I'd play with settings so it fails in test but works great in game play.
LTG : )
Exactly! Lol. The settings for my machine are spin =7 and open force =14 but the game clearly does not spin it to 7. It does less than 7, and so the "leg door" only opens 1/2 way. But in test mode with 7/14 perfect every time. Very frustrating. No one else notices this?
Quoted from CrashJT:Exactly! Lol. The settings for my machine are spin =7 and open force =14 but the game clearly does not spin it to 7. It does less than 7, and so the "leg door" only opens 1/2 way. But in test mode with 7/14 perfect every time. Very frustrating. No one else notices this?
due to some slop in the mech the adjustment can be sketchy.
It can take 5 or 6 times to get it right.
I have had good success in manually turning the house a bit with the power off and letting the game re-set its position between adjustments.
The test doesnt re-set the house as good as it should. Manually turning it with the power off gets it where it should be "real world".
With a little patience you can get it really close and it will stay there for the most part.
Quoted from pinballinreno:due to some slop in the mech the adjustment can be sketchy.
It can take 5 or 6 times to get it right.
I have had good success in manually turning the house a bit with the power off and letting the game re-set its position between adjustments.
The test doesnt re-set the house as good as it should. Manually turning it with the power off gets it where it should be "real world".
With a little patience you can get it really close and it will stay there for the most part.
So turn the power off and put the house where it is when I run the test and when I turn it on it will just work? Or set the house randomly then turn it on? Then do I try the test over and get new values? I want to do this but not sure what you mean. Thank you for the info.
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