Just finished my 2.0 light upgrade, and no lights. New boards have power with green LED on each board lit solid. running 7.04RR from the menu, so latest code is there. swapped the new mini USB for the old one to make sure it wasn't that cable, same result. Grrrrrrrrrrr................open to suggestions?

The I/O board in the metal box. Standing in front of the machine. Lower right side are two USB cables. One for switches, one for old lights. Did you unplug the one for old lights ?

Trial and error if you need to figure out which one is which. Turn game off. Unplug one. Turn game on. No change ? Then turn game off, plug the one you unplugged back in and unplug the other. Turn game on. See if that works.

And there has been reports of B.A.G. boards out there not programmed. You'd have to contact jjp about that.

LTG : )

yes I pulled the old cable out of the IO board in the cabinet, unplugged from the CPU USB line, and trashed it per the instructions. Then I used it to make sure I didn't have a bad cable, same result. 2014 RR build.

Thanks LTG

Then check with jjp to see if you have a bad B.A.G. board.

They might ask you to check a couple other things like power to the new LED boards.

They proactively changed my bag board out once I received my kit so they may have missed you. LTG is right they were some that went out unrogrammed from the factory.

I actually had to get a replacement for my replacement BAG board as the replacement was DOA. But they were pretty quick about it.

Thanks I appreciate the information. Were you both in the most recent round of orders filled?

Not sure. I believe it was the first round of new boards this year. Ordered in January and they showed up sometime in summer.

Roger that, sounds like the same batch. JJP is sending me the new board today with a RA for the non-working one…….. thanks JJP and pinside fam for the help on this!

Finally getting some quality playing time with my (relatively) new WOZ. I read the rule sheet, and the final wizard mode (Somewhere Over the Rainbow) looks brutally, brutally hard to reach. You need all 8 gems, and some of those require lots and lots of sequential accomplishments, all without losing a ball. Is it just me? Do others routinely reach this? I’ve played quite a few tables over the decades, this honestly may be the hardest to reach Wizard mode I know (at least, reading how to do it in the rulesheet).

Not with the glass on...I dont think its been done.

Kinda like the top 3 scores on pinside for WOZ, they are lies.

Top score #4 is legit and has a ladder pic to prove it in this thread from @pinballgoddess.

You can lose a ball. You don’t have to get all eight gems on the same ball.

That said, most mortals will never reach SOTR, the final wizard mode. Try to melt the witch which is the intermediate wizard mode. When I played regularly, I would get to that mode every month or so, and melt the witch a couple of times a year. Really great feeling doing that.

Of course. I was referring to individual gem modes where you can't lose a ball. A great example is the gem from Rescue Multiball. The rulesheet is below. This seems nearly impossible to me to complete during the multiball (where you have to actually keep at least 2 balls in play). You have to cycle through every shot a minimum of three times and then bash the castle and enter the saucer at least 6 times before you can even light a mega-jackpot. Brutal.

----
Rescue Multiball

During this multiball the following jackpot shots are lit: Spinner, Left Orbit, Winkie Drop Target, Ramp, Right Orbit, and Throne Room. For each of those shots, the first time you hit it will award a 1x jackpot. The second time will award a 2x jackpot. The third time will award and 3x jackpot. And hitting it after that will award 0.5x jackpot values until the end of the multiball or a super or mega jackpot is scored.

Once a 3x jackpot has been achieved for a shot it will light a corresponding R-E-S-C-U-E target letter on the castle mini-playfield (R – Spinner, E – Left Orbit, S – Winkie Drop Target, C – Ramp, U – Right Orbit, E – Throne Room) and enable Super Jackpot. To collect a super jackpot you need to hit at least one blinking RESCUE target and then get the castle doors to open and finally get the ball into the rescue saucer. You can stack the super jackpots by collecting multiple blinking rescue letters to get even more points (e.g. collect 3x jackpots at multiple locations and then get the super).

Note that once a super jackpot is collected all shots revert back to 1x so keep that in mind if you have good progress towards lighting the Rescue letters (e.g. 2x on the other jackpot shots). Fortunately a super jackpot does not unlight the rescue letters that have been collected.

Once all R-E-S-C-U-E letters have been lit (by collecting 3x jackpots from all jackpot shots and then hitting the R-E-S-C-U-E letter) a Mega Jackpot can be collected by getting a search orbit to castle door combo (i.e. hitting the search orbit and then immediately hitting the castle doors breaking through them and getting into the saucer behind).

Scoring a Mega Jackpot also immediately awards a Jewel towards SOTR.

I think, but may be wrong, that the rescue letters carry over from ball to ball. So, if you don’t do it on your first Rescue MB, you still have progress towards it on the second go around. Again, I could be wrong.

That said, that is the hardest jewel to collect IMO. I’ve never done it. And, most games, I don’t even get to Rescue MB, let alone get to it twice or make much progress in it.

So, again, SOTR is pretty much out of reach for most. There are videos, though, of really good players who have gotten there.

Yeah that’s my biggest knock on this game. SOTR is virtually impossible. Kind of a buzz kill

I don’t mind something unobtainable to always try to reach for. I get plenty of joy trying to melt the witch which is thrilling whenever I accomplish it.

There are 2 red smoke witch mods listed for sale on Splash. Outstanding mod, hard to find.

I think this is the video. Karl DeAngelo from I.E. Pinball did it and streamed it.

But yes. Seemingly impossible. I’m gotten all but 2 gems in a single game and those aren’t very repeatable feats. I for one like that it’s out there to reach for though.

What’s “Splash”? Google came up with nothing.

i got mine about 3 months ago and just got around to installing

Pinside market. Opening page before classified is Splash. There are mainly mods there.

Oh, got it. Thanks. For $600, I'll pass....

You are correct, pinball_keefer changed it at some point so the RESCUE letters would carry over and make it only slightly less impossible to achieve. One thing I had to do on my game to make even a remote possiblity was adjust those RESCUE switches otherwise no hit from the flipper would activate several of them, they were just gapped way too far open.

The real key is to get the Mega in rescue MB early on to get the gem.

All of the other gems arent to bad to get.

Very many games Ive earned all the gems but the rescue one.

My high score was 6 mil, but Im no longer on the ladder as Pinballgoddess scores have made it impossible lol.

Anyone have a pdf of the 2.0 board install instructions? I’d like to take a look. I’m on the next waitlist due out first quarter next year

Send me a PM with your email address and I'll email them to you.

LTG : )

Got mine for $500 new but I gotta say the 2.0 is the best mod in pinball IMHO

Thanks for posting. Best video Ive seen. Shows you how to do it but then no spoilers!!

I paid the same. I have had mine 8 years and have done a lot of mods. The red smoke witch is the best. A real eye catcher.

Good morning!

Does anyone have an ECLE topper that they are willing to part with?

I have already reached out to Jersey Jack and several other distributors, and none are available.

Please message me if you would like to discuss a sale.

Have a great day! Jen

Switch #72, Castle Ball Lock (Monkey), is not working on my WOZECLE. The actuator wire is working as it should as the switch makes a clicking noise when pressed in with my finger and also if ball sits on the actuator wire on the castle playfield.

I removed the castle playfield and inspected the wiring to switch #72 and the switch (part number 18-7001-00) and the diode look to be in perfect condition. This game gets light use. In the 9 years that I have owned the game I have had to remove the castle playfield on two separate occasions to adjust the switch actuator wire so that it trips the little nub button on the switch when a ball is resting on the actuator wire. That is the confusing part of this issue is that the actuator wire is perfectly adjusted and it makes a clicking sound when a ball rolls over the actuator wire, but it doesn't register in game play or in switch edges test.

Even though the switch looks to be in perfect condition it would seem that replacing the switch is the next step in the troubleshooting process. If I do replace the switch then I would assume that I should also replace the attached diode as well. Is that correct? If that is the case does anyone know the size of the diode that I should use?

Also, if I need to replace the switch any idea which vendor may carry this switch? I have been unsuccessful in finding this switch in a preliminary search. All comments and advice are welcome.

Thanks.

Gord

I'd put a meter on it. If it's working you have a broken wire or poor connection from it to the I/O board.

LTG : )

Thanks for the quick reponse Lloyd. I can do that, but I have never tested a switch with my DMM. Can you detail how I would test the switch with a meter? Sorry for the stupid question. I will also search YouTube for videos on how to test a pinball switch with a DMM.

Gord

OK, so I removed the castle playfield again and tested a good working switch on the castle playfield and also switch #72 Castle Ball Lock (Monkey) which is the problematic switch on my WOZECLE. I put one probe of the DMM on one lug of the switch (NC, Normally Closed) and the other probe of the DMM on the lug on the other end of the switch (C, Common).

On both the working switch and the non-working switch #72 my DMM buzzed indicating that I have continuity within the switch. When I depress the actuator wire on both the working and the non-working switch the beeping stops. I believe that this means that my non-working switch #72 is working fine since it tests exactly like my working switch. Is this correct?

So if that is the case then I will need to trace the wire color of the non-working switch #72 back to the I/O board as Lloyd suggested either a broken wire or a poor connection somewhere along the way. If there is something else that I should be checking please chime in.

Thanks Lloyd and anyone else who responds.

Gord

Put one lead on the middle lug ( C ), the other on another lug, hit the switch, then on the other lug, hit the switch. On each try it will go on or off. Depending if you have one lug on C ( common ) and the other lug on NO ( normally open ) or NC ( normally closed .)

LTG : )

Manual has the pinouts to the back of the big metal box and connector pinouts on the I/O board.

Or look for the wires of the same color as on #72.

LTG : )

#72 white wire violet stripe on J200 pin 8 on I/O board.
gray wire black stripe J202 pin 1 on I/O board.

LTG : )

Back of the big metal box - connector info is on page D-158 and page D-159. You can download the manual from the jjp website if you need it.

LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd, I did trace the white wire with the violet stripe back to J200 and was able to beep it from the connector that connects to the castle playfield all the way back to the connector on the I/O board that connects to the same white wire with the violet stripe on the J200 connector and I was able to confirm with the DMM that continuity was good as it beeped. So I know that the switch is good and the wire actuator is adjusted properly.

I need to test out the gray wire with the black stripe from J202 back to switch #72. I did verify continuity from the gray wire with the black stripe from the adjacent castle playfield switch over to switch #72 and it tested fine as my DMM beeped. So if the adjacent switch on the castle playfield with a gray wire with a black stripe works and the wire that runs from that switch to switch #72 has good continuity then I am confused as to why switch #72 is not working.

Anyway, I can do a continuity test all the way back to J202 on the I/O board for the gray wire with the black stripe.

Gord

Anybody have either the back alley 3d
non-lit emerald city mod, or the other companies light up emerald city 3d mod that sticks on back wall? Curious if either looks better in person be the other.

Maybe it's broke ?

LTG : )

So here is where I am now. I was able to trace both wires from switch #72 all the way back to the following jumper blocks on the I/O board.

white wire w/ violet stripe on J200 pin 8 on I/O board
gray wire w/ black stripe J202 pin 1 on I/O board

I also confirmed with a DMM that switch #72 has continuity from the NC (Normally Closed) and C (Common) lug as it beeps on the DMM and when the actuator wire is depressed with a ball that the beeping stops. This is also how the adjacent working switch on the castle playfield reacts.

For whatever reason the switch #72 doesn't work even though both wires have good continuity all the way back to the I/O board. I think at this point I will replace the switch and diode and see what happens. I have cherry microswitches with diodes already wired that are exactly the same size as switch #72 so I am thinking that I can use one of those switches/diodes and simply move the actuator wire over to the new switch.

My confusion stems from switch #72 seemingly testing good with the DMM and the wire continuity tests were all positive as well. Is there any reason why I cannot go forward with this plan?

Gord

No, keep eliminating stuff.

LTG : )

I replaced the switch and diode for switch #72 and now it is working again. Thanks for your assistance Lloyd as it is much appreciated.

My only confusion is that when I tested switch #72 with a DMM it tested that it was good, unless my test was somehow not valid. Anyway it all works perfectly now so I am good to go.

Gord

I would have tested it with just a ball , not using your fingers...as it may have just needed a small adjustment of the actuator lever

I tested the switch with a ball and with my finger.

Some of the lights (first six dots and inserts 1& 2) on my fish shaped 2.0 boards don’t seem to be working. Verified in led test mode that the Path lead-in lights 1-6 and Yellow Brick Road 1 & 2 are not working. Anybody have any idea why?

F362F1ED-EE45-44FB-AB8A-1C2FE5F98064 (resized).jpeg

E839D7B8-D550-419F-8AE3-421CB094AB2C (resized).jpeg

Did you just do the 2.0 Swap? If so try re-loading the code then double-check that those aren't disabled in the settings.

Here’s hoping it’s just a settings issue. I was hoping 2.0 would be bulletproof for longer than this.

I installed them over a year ago. I can double check settings. I didn’t know it was possible to turn off select leds. I suppose it’s possible something got turned off accidentally.