(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

8 years ago


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  • 711 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 20 hours ago by HIPPY
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#14301 28 days ago
Quoted from julien_06480:

This game was bought probably 9 or 8 years ago and only 20 plays ??!!... How can this be possible? Someone spent several thousands dollars just to put this in some corner of his house as a decoration?

been 3-4 code updates since new.

#14302 28 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Is it assembled correctly? It looks like its way off and it shouldnt be. Maybe assembled wrong?
Since the drop target is the same as the original black one, AND the original wasnt installed that way, Check your work.
For small adjustments:
Bend the entire metal mech (Pull it towards the front of the game) forwards.
You only have to tweak it a small amount to free it up.
Other than that, loosen the mounting screws and press it back as far as possible.
If that fails, pull out the mech and elongate its mounting holes a bit until you can push it where is needs to be.

I’m pretty sure it’s mounted correctly however I’ll check that first. As far as pulling / bending the mech, do you recommend doing this while it is installed?

Thanks

#14303 28 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Maybe assembled wrong?

This. Springs and washers go on the other side of the target. You can see it in the picture.

Check the parts layout in the manual on page C-26 in the manual.

For flying spaghetti monster and country tell jjp to get LTG : ) Back !

#14304 28 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

This. Springs and washers go on the other side of the target. You can see it in the picture.
Check the parts layout in the manual on page C-26 in the manual.
For flying spaghetti monster and country tell jjp to get LTG : ) Back !

That’s interesting and makes sense. This is how the factory winkie was installed. So, for the upper clip, it should be washer, spring, washer then plastic, then the only thing on the outside of the plastic should be the clip?

288A19A6-26FE-4148-90DF-AF6B75CB37C7 (resized).jpeg
#14305 28 days ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

This is how the factory winkie was installed.

That ain't a factory winkie target, it's an after market one you can light up.

Quoted from PinDeadHead:

So, for the upper clip, it should be washer, spring, washer then plastic, then the only thing on the outside of the plastic should be the clip?

Just like the black target in your picture.

LTG : )

#14306 28 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

That ain't a factory winkie target, it's an after market one you can light up.

Just like the black target in your picture.
LTG : )

Thank you!

#14307 25 days ago

Just joined the club with a Ruby Red, looking forward to getting some time on this game. Quick question, what’s the recommended pitch for a WOZ? Thx

#14308 25 days ago
Quoted from tilt-master:

Quick question, what’s the recommended pitch for a WOZ? Thx

I run my jjp games at 6 1/2 degrees set with an inclinometer.

LTG : )

#14309 25 days ago

Need some pop-bumper help:

Was playing this morning, and noticed one of my pop bumpers pull a 180. I’m not in possession of a manual as I didn’t get this NIB. 4435D58D-2571-4089-B818-7E51E268EB15 (resized).jpeg does the entire assembly need to be taken apart, or is there something I’m just not seeing here? Did I break a screw? One of my other pops looks to be about in the same boat216FD0F8-B387-4B6A-A2E3-E9F6CB580AFF (resized).jpeg

I have the black hex spacer, but not a screw that would go from there, to the tree…. Help?

DC772357-0710-40A9-B64A-E7E843729D85 (resized).jpeg

2EB14726-82C8-4A4D-A965-E9DCEF762DAF (resized).jpeg86847D07-2B9E-4377-86A6-F939275DD39A (resized).jpeg
#14310 24 days ago

You can download the manual from here - https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/downloads/

Page C-23 and C-24 has the parts layout.

You'll have to determine what is missing, threads stripped, or broken.

Not much there. Pop bumper ring with extensions, hex posts, locknuts.

Under the playfield remove the two lock nuts holding the pop bumper ring to the yokes the plunger pulls down, on top pull off the ring. Then fix, replace, etc. Then push the ring and two rods back doen, get into the holes on the yoke, replace the locknuts.

Then let jjp know to get LTG : ) Back

#14311 24 days ago

My apologies if this has already been discussed, I increased my pitch to 6.5 but I’ve noticed that the flying monkey can’t grab the ball anymore, has anyone else experienced this? Is there an adjustment I can make to assist this feature to work more consistently? Thx

#14312 24 days ago
Quoted from tilt-master:

Is there an adjustment I can make to assist this feature to work more consistently?

Is the magnet on the monkey still working ? Easy to have a break in the moving wiring kill it.

LTG : )

#14313 24 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Is the magnet on the monkey still working ? Easy to have a break in the moving wiring kill it.
LTG : )

Yes it was working prior to pitch increase. It tries to grab it but the ball falls away

#14314 24 days ago
Quoted from tilt-master:

It tries to grab it but the ball falls away

Is the monkey going far enough down to the ball ? Maybe the limit switch needs to be adjusted so the monkey goes a tiny bit further.

Balls changed recently to ones that magnets don't grab ?

LTG : )

#14315 24 days ago

I’ll check the limit switch and experiment with the adjustments tomorrow thx!

#14316 24 days ago

Does anyone have any advice for reconnecting the witch back to the spinning screw that raises/ lowers the witch?

#14317 24 days ago
Quoted from PeteLawtPin:

Does anyone have any advice for reconnecting the witch back to the spinning screw that raises/ lowers the witch?

I'd use a five minuet epoxy.

LTG : )

#14318 23 days ago

I just melted the witch for the first time in a couple years!!! Wow, that mode just never gets old. Probably my favorite pinball moment along with killing Smaug in the hobbit. These modes always remind me of why I love jjp games.

#14319 23 days ago

The Smaug Kill shot is my vote for coolest moment in Pinball.

#14320 23 days ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I just melted the witch for the first time in a couple years!!! Wow, that mode just never gets old. Probably my favorite pinball moment along with killing Smaug in the hobbit. These modes always remind me of why I love jjp games.

There is truly nothing like it. I don't play my game very often and I'm by no means a great pinball player. One bonus of this is how incredible a feeling when I can accomplish this feat. Truly remarkable experience that I'm glad isn't something that comes easy (to me).

#14321 23 days ago
Quoted from PeteLawtPin:

Does anyone have any advice for reconnecting the witch back to the spinning screw that raises/ lowers the witch?

Just in case you aren't aware of this. Here is a page from the manual describing how to turn the screw.
Basically you line up the posts into the holes, set the witch onto the screw and turn the screw down via the test menu

pasted_image (resized).png
#14322 21 days ago

Hi all,

I have a WOZ ECLE and the back left pop bumper tree and right lower sling fire randomly without a ball hitting them sometimes. Seems like the tree fires sometimes when I press the right flipper button. Has anyone run into this and any suggestions?

Thank you

#14323 21 days ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

I have a WOZ ECLE and the back left pop bumper tree and right lower sling fire randomly without a ball hitting them sometimes.

Turn game off to adjust leaf blade switches :

Pop bumper. Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.

Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.

Slingshot - Turn the game off. Remove the plastic over the sling shot kicker and leaf blade switches. Pull on the rubber ring around the posts, so you have equal pressure on all sides, not tight on the kicker/leaf blade switch side. The leaf blade switches - front long one should be resting on the rubber ring, not pushing it or away from it. Shorter rear one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, yet vibration doesn't. There are two leaf blade switches, one each side of the kicker. At least one needs a little adjusting. When bending forward or backward, get as close to the fiberboard spacers as you can.

Then call jjp and let them know you miss LTG : )

#14324 21 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Turn game off to adjust leaf blade switches :
Pop bumper. Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.
Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.
Slingshot - Turn the game off. Remove the plastic over the sling shot kicker and leaf blade switches. Pull on the rubber ring around the posts, so you have equal pressure on all sides, not tight on the kicker/leaf blade switch side. The leaf blade switches - front long one should be resting on the rubber ring, not pushing it or away from it. Shorter rear one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, yet vibration doesn't. There are two leaf blade switches, one each side of the kicker. At least one needs a little adjusting. When bending forward or backward, get as close to the fiberboard spacers as you can.
Then call jjp and let them know you miss LTG : )

You never cease to amaze me. Thank you!

#14325 16 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Turn game off to adjust leaf blade switches :
Pop bumper. Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.
Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.
Slingshot - Turn the game off. Remove the plastic over the sling shot kicker and leaf blade switches. Pull on the rubber ring around the posts, so you have equal pressure on all sides, not tight on the kicker/leaf blade switch side. The leaf blade switches - front long one should be resting on the rubber ring, not pushing it or away from it. Shorter rear one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, yet vibration doesn't. There are two leaf blade switches, one each side of the kicker. At least one needs a little adjusting. When bending forward or backward, get as close to the fiberboard spacers as you can.
Then call jjp and let them know you miss LTG : )

The upper leaf switch is practically touching and the lower switch has a gap. I bent the upper switch with pliers so it has a small gap just like the lower switch, and this resolved the issue. Hopefully this can help someone. Thank you Lloyd!

E77CC8F1-2948-49F5-A309-EF3E9648B901 (resized).jpeg
#14326 16 days ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

The upper leaf switch is practically touching and the lower switch has a gap. I bent the upper switch with pliers so it has a small gap just like the lower switch, and this resolved the issue. Hopefully this can help someone. Thank you Lloyd![quoted image]

The next time that you order anything from Pinball Life you may want to add this to your shopping cart.

https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html

Gord

#14327 16 days ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

The next time that you order anything from Pinball Life you may want to add this to your shopping cart.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
Gord

Thank you. I ordered it last week but couldn’t wait!

#14328 14 days ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

The upper leaf switch is practically touching and the lower switch has a gap. I bent the upper switch with pliers so it has a small gap just like the lower switch, and this resolved the issue. Hopefully this can help someone. Thank you Lloyd![quoted image]

JJP - You know you need the Great One back - there's no denying it!!!!

#14329 14 days ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

JJP - You know you need the Great One back - there's no denying it!!!!

Never happen. Can't have someone out there that is low cost. Supporting and promoting their product. And dedicated to boot. When they took the LTG off of toy Story credits, you know it's over.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : Guess I won't always be like family.

#14330 13 days ago

Hey guys. I’m picking up a WOZ that has unbuffered 7.5v led boards. If I ever have an issue with the boards any idea if JJP has some replacements? I know the 2.0 boards are out of stock but could they send a new 7.5v board? TIA

#14331 13 days ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Hey guys. I’m picking up a WOZ that has unbuffered 7.5v led boards. If I ever have an issue with the boards any idea if JJP has some replacements? I know the 2.0 boards are out of stock but could they send a new 7.5v board? TIA

I havent had too many problems in 7 years...

#14332 13 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I havent had too many problems in 7 years...

You’ve been lucky. I lost a few GI boards and occasionally a main board every winter. That’s why I finally upgraded to 2.0.

Quoted from Mattyk:

Hey guys. I’m picking up a WOZ that has unbuffered 7.5v led boards. If I ever have an issue with the boards any idea if JJP has some replacements? I know the 2.0 boards are out of stock but could they send a new 7.5v board? TIA

You should reach out to JJP. They used to return, replace and repair the older boards. I’m not sure if they’re still doing that. And, the cost of the larger boards for replacement is going to be a bit high.

#14333 10 days ago

Not one problem with mine since new 7-8 years ago. I bought a second 7.5 set from somebody they did conversion for $250 just to have extras though. Most 7.5 sets have been good though

#14334 10 days ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Not one problem with mine since new 7-8 years ago. I bought a second 7.5 set from somebody they did conversion for $250 just to have extras though. Most 7.5 sets have been good though

Same here.

#14335 8 days ago

I just completed the conversion as a preventive measure because everyone said to do so. Havng said that I have a complete set of 7.5 Rev 1.1 boards that were working perfectly for sale if anyone is interested. Also have all wiring is anyone is in need of a replacement.

20221123_053659 (resized).jpg
#14336 8 days ago
Quoted from bsbdmd83:

I just completed the conversion as a preventive measure because everyone said to do so. Havng said that I have a complete set of 7.5 Rev 1.1 boards that were working perfectly for sale if anyone is interested. Also have all wiring is anyone is in need of a replacement.
[quoted image]

Pm sent

#14337 7 days ago

I have a Red Smoke Witch 2.0 still in box - for the WOZ I was planning on getting but it doesn't look like it will be anytime soon. Would rather someone put it to good use. Will be listing it in Marketplace later this weekend...

#14338 7 days ago

Question for those that have upgraded to 2.0 lighting: how much dimmer is the whole package? I've got the 7.5V buffered boards in my game (and a backup set of boards purchased as spares). An opportunity arose to pickup a 2.0 lighting kit, and I jumped on it. I can't decide if I should upgrade or keep the 2.0 kit as ultimate insurance, and continue with the 7.5 boards until they were no longer viable. One of the nicest features of my WOZ is the fantastic and bright light shows (such as the all-green Forest mode with red-light shots).

My understanding is the 7.5V kits are brighter overall, and you take a bit of an light intensity hit with the 2.0 system. Is this noticeable? I actually love working on my pins, so upgrading to 2.0 would be a fun project. My 7.5V system has been mainly reliable, but it does freeze up ocassionaly in longer games. Not having that happen would be nice, too. I'm truly undecided on which way to go with my absolutely pristine ECLE WOZ. (BTW, *LOVE* this game) Thanks.

#14339 7 days ago
Quoted from ReadyPO:

I have a Red Smoke Witch 2.0 still in box - for the WOZ I was planning on getting but it doesn't look like it will be anytime soon. Would rather someone put it to good use. Will be listing it in Marketplace later this weekend...

Pm sent

#14340 7 days ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

Question for those that have upgraded to 2.0 lighting: how much dimmer is the whole package? I've got the 7.5V buffered boards in my game (and a backup set of boards purchased as spares). An opportunity arose to pickup a 2.0 lighting kit, and I jumped on it. I can't decide if I should upgrade or keep the 2.0 kit as ultimate insurance, and continue with the 7.5 boards until they were no longer viable. One of the nicest features of my WOZ is the fantastic and bright light shows (such as the all-green Forest mode with red-light shots).
My understanding is the 7.5V kits are brighter overall, and you take a bit of an light intensity hit with the 2.0 system. Is this noticeable? I actually love working on my pins, so upgrading to 2.0 would be a fun project. My 7.5V system has been mainly reliable, but it does freeze up ocassionaly in longer games. Not having that happen would be nice, too. I'm truly undecided on
which way to go with my absolutely pristine ECLE WOZ. (BTW, *LOVE* this game) Thanks.

I understand it’s the gi that is in question not the playfield Inserts,I have not seen anything but I would believe where you play like in a lit room or in the dark etc! .

#14341 7 days ago

The GI is less bright but honestly on this game it doesnt make a difference truly. There is so much pop from the RGB system. As to when you do it, I think its personal preference. I just finished it and I took about 3 days off and on. ( did have to wait on some things not in box- fish paper) Just meticulously follow directions and youll get there. I did mine preventively as I had no probem with the 7.5 buffered system.

#14342 7 days ago
Quoted from bsbdmd83:

The GI is less bright but honestly on this game it doesnt make a difference truly. There is so much pop from the RGB system. As to when you do it, I think its personal preference. I just finished it and I took about 3 days off and on. ( did have to wait on some things not in box- fish paper) Just meticulously follow directions and youll get there. I did mine preventively as I had no probem with the 7.5 buffered system.

Estimate on your total hours you spent?

#14343 7 days ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

Estimate on your total hours you spent?

First time I did it, 2 days 10hrs/ea
Second time, 1 day 15hrs
Third time, 1 day 9hrs

It is worth the upgrade and increases the value of your machine. Also it's good to get it done to be sure all your parts work, while they are still being made.

#14344 7 days ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

Question for those that have upgraded to 2.0 lighting: how much dimmer is the whole package? I've got the 7.5V buffered boards in my game (and a backup set of boards purchased as spares). An opportunity arose to pickup a 2.0 lighting kit, and I jumped on it. I can't decide if I should upgrade or keep the 2.0 kit as ultimate insurance, and continue with the 7.5 boards until they were no longer viable. One of the nicest features of my WOZ is the fantastic and bright light shows (such as the all-green Forest mode with red-light shots).
My understanding is the 7.5V kits are brighter overall, and you take a bit of an light intensity hit with the 2.0 system. Is this noticeable? I actually love working on my pins, so upgrading to 2.0 would be a fun project. My 7.5V system has been mainly reliable, but it does freeze up ocassionaly in longer games. Not having that happen would be nice, too. I'm truly undecided on which way to go with my absolutely pristine ECLE WOZ. (BTW, *LOVE* this game) Thanks.

I am not sure if the 2.0 are any dimmer and if they are it is not overly noticeable. One thing I did notice is the colors are just not as good as the 7.5's. Those older boards had a much sharper, vibrant colors when compared to the 2.0. This is what might them appear to be a little more dim than the 7.5's. Its too bad those boards did not work out, they produced a really nice bright sharp color. I used to lose a board a year on the 7.5 system, I got sick of replacing them. Lucky for me it was always the single boards.

#14345 7 days ago

Well I didnt cut wires, I saved all and sold everything as a package. So first day I removed all large boards and wires and the individual leds. Had to wait on some fish paper since i only got 4 pieces ( could have used electrical tape but has other things to do). Replaced each large board as I removed, used the map or wires and guides to position new single led boards, used the dimple tootl and drill holes and mounted. Going in ordeer as I removed and labeling new boards with sharpie.

Second day was removing and replacing boards in castle playfield and munchkinland. Not hard, take your time and dont force anything. Hardest part was getting all the new wiring down the holes while lowering playfield and not trapping anything underneath. The raindow board is the worst. They do send new plastic rivets but do not send new rubber push through washers that attach the board to the plastic with the black filter sandwiched in between. Would have some of those on hand before you try.

Third day fish paper arrived, finished the single led boards that require that and the ran started running rgb cabling. The cables look very similar and the inventory drawing is a small picture and hard to tell. Follow the diagram to see how many leds are connected to each string and count the connectors on the strings and you can figure it out. ( Would be nice if they were numbered).

Last are the Cat 5 cable and they are simple. The directions are pretty good. Would add that when you get to the step of removing the toto lane and haunted house cable, it says to leave the cable in machine as this will be used. This isnt that clear, but you will need tomake sure you have some play to be able to run cable to the WOZ7 board in the lower left corner ( playfield upright).

I would say total hours was 12-15.

#14346 7 days ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Also it's good to get it done to be sure all your parts work, while they are still being made.

And you have a programmed B.A.G. board that works.

LTG : )

#14347 6 days ago
Quoted from zaphX:

First time I did it, 2 days 10hrs/ea
Second time, 1 day 15hrs
Third time, 1 day 9hrs
It is worth the upgrade and increases the value of your machine. Also it's good to get it done to be sure all your parts work, while they are still being made.

Thanks for the info, I have the kit with the game I just traded for with non-working boards so yeah this is gonna happen this weekend!

Quoted from bsbdmd83:

Well I didnt cut wires, I saved all and sold everything as a package. So first day I removed all large boards and wires and the individual leds. Had to wait on some fish paper since i only got 4 pieces ( could have used electrical tape but has other things to do). Replaced each large board as I removed, used the map or wires and guides to position new single led boards, used the dimple tootl and drill holes and mounted. Going in ordeer as I removed and labeling new boards with sharpie.
Second day was removing and replacing boards in castle playfield and munchkinland. Not hard, take your time and dont force anything. Hardest part was getting all the new wiring down the holes while lowering playfield and not trapping anything underneath. The raindow board is the worst. They do send new plastic rivets but do not send new rubber push through washers that attach the board to the plastic with the black filter sandwiched in between. Would have some of those on hand before you try.
Third day fish paper arrived, finished the single led boards that require that and the ran started running rgb cabling. The cables look very similar and the inventory drawing is a small picture and hard to tell. Follow the diagram to see how many leds are connected to each string and count the connectors on the strings and you can figure it out. ( Would be nice if they were numbered).
Last are the Cat 5 cable and they are simple. The directions are pretty good. Would add that when you get to the step of removing the toto lane and haunted house cable, it says to leave the cable in machine as this will be used. This isnt that clear, but you will need tomake sure you have some play to be able to run cable to the WOZ7 board in the lower left corner ( playfield upright).
I would say total hours was 12-15.

Thanks for the detailed summary! I expect it to take a couple days this helps a lot.

#14348 3 days ago

Just installed a 2.0 lighting kit into my basically-new ECLE WOZ. Prior to finding the 2.0 kit, I had purchased a complete backup set of 7.5 (mostly buffered) boards as spares. 2.0 Kit is great. Not at all dim to my eye. Works great. Happy with this upgrade.

(note: old boards sold)

IMG_0270 (resized).JPG

#14349 3 days ago

Most recent post aside, I have a 7.5 RR. One of my gray cables is flaky and causing lighting issues. Confirmed to be cable as just touching it causes lights to go out. I also swapped it with a different one to make sure.

Anyone have a short spare of these I can buy? In my pic the green circled one is bad. I had swapped green and red circled to test.

PXL_20221125_232944743~2 (resized).jpg
13
#14350 3 days ago
Quoted from mdelorenzo:

Anyone have a short spare of these I can buy? In my pic the green circled one is bad. I had swapped green and red circled to test.
[quoted image]

Shoot me a PM. LMK the length. I have tons of these cables (2 complete sets). I'll mail you one for free.

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