You might be able to inspect it from underneath.

Harder to check all the wiring to the coil lugs with out taking things apart.

I'd suspect the thin wires from the coil windings to the lugs. Easy to have a crack or break you can't see, you have to dig around them.

Assuming both sets of leaf blade switches register on the screen. Go into Tests - Switches - Dedicated, slowly push the flipper button in. First lowers than uppers should register on screen.

And more recently I have had a few coils that were in fact dead. I didn't tear them apart to see what happened. This is something I haven't run into in all my years until this year.

LTG : )

I think the copper in the wire isnt as good as it used to be.

It seems brittle and less malleable.

I imagine this is due to the huge rise in copper prices.

So, I think we might see an increase in open/broken coil wires.

Just joined the club with an ECLE! Such a beautiful game! Only issue is that the wizard above the saucer on the right is not lighting up. I’ll have to check on that. Is that a common issue?

The LED strip can burn out. Easy to check the connector for it below the wizard head, see if you have 12 volts DC. If so you need a new LED strip.

Ask jjp to get LTG : ) Back !

LTG et al,

It worked! I have documented what I did for future reference here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-no-boot-up-on-power-on-problem-and-solution-bios-screenshots#post-7204476

Thanks!

Frank

Holy moly Frank. Thank you for doing all that to help others !
LTG : )

I got the replacement light board. But had to fight the post office for it - JJP got my house number wrong, luckily it was to a undeliverable address and I convinced the mailman it was meant to be shipped to my address...

easy swap of the board and all good, and got PinStadiums re-installed (not connected to a light board this time)...

I was acutally able to fix my flipper by adjusting/remount the flipper board/switch. Works great now. However the switch issue still exists.

Have you checked all the flipper mechs for a broken wire at one of the EOS switches ?

LTG : )

Thanks to jkashani I now have a Gouveia Monkey!!

That's an awesome mod. I wish he's make more of these for those of us who missed out. So much nicer than the stock monkey.

I just dont know if I could justify the cost of $500 for that. Crazy money.

If it’s the monkey sense it can be a real pain in the ass to get it in the correct position!

I would believe he paid a lot more than 500.00 for that one.yes it would be great to have more of them or even someone else make a version of a flying monkey .we can only hope!

I was showing off the new monkey in action. Haven’t had any issues in 2+ years of ownership with the monkey mech. Lubed a few times.

Yes it was way more than 500 but at least not 4 figures lol. I’ve put a lot of mod$$ in my WOZ lol. Just missing the OZ lanes now.

Guess this is topical..

It would be best if you came up with ideas on your own.

It would enrich the hobby.

But i imagine you also dont have the rights to the music and vocals in your sales pitch either.

So. I guess "rip everyone off" that you can.

I'm sorry you think anyone has a monopoly on replacing printed plastics with 3D figures. Let alone mechanical and electronic pieces that are designed 100% from scratch by our designers to meet the ideas and features we want in our games. Please go tell that to all of the companies that make similar mods to each other for all kinds of machines out there and keep your negativity out of pinball. Lest I care about or call out others who have made items after we have.

Good for you,there is no patent on the monkey mod and there is a demand and the orginal maker says no more for the for foreseeable future.

I want the first one!

Looks cool. Would like to see it in color and get more details about it

Coming soon. We're currently paint testing so we'll have some finished images available shortly.

Price for this new flying monkey mod?

Yes! Count me in

Not sure quite yet. Just got suppliers in place for a few of the harder to get parts of the mechanism and electronics. I'll post an update shortly once we know more.

Had anyone made a video of their install of Mezel Mods’ winkie lit target? Thx.

Hi, I'm having a problem with my RR75WOZ. Randomly but several times within a 5 ball game, my castle doors open by themselves and you see the vuk try to plunge out a ball that's not there. The screen and music go to the "Rescue" mode. It may do it many times in a row, or just once. ( eg doors open, vuk ejects nothing, doors close, doors open, vuk ejects nothing, etc) I first tried shaking the game to see if there was any correlation, but there wasn't. I read the issues that another guy was having recently and tried unplugging my in game usb hub with Bluetooth and wifi dongles. Was REALLY hoping this would solve it, but it didn't. I also attempted to "clean the opto" thinking it might have to do with that vuk. I'm not sure I did this well or well enough. I put 91% alcohol on a q tip and "tried" to stick that into the vuk to the left and right. Couldn't really tell if it was cleaning anything. I also went into the switch test, and when this happens, the two door switches are lighting green. Any suggestions to troubleshoot this? Thank you!

Joined the club this week. Arranged a trade for a basically NIB ECLE WOZ. ~20 plays on the machine, indistinguishable from new. Absolutely pristine.

This is a lovely game, I’m very impressed. Only issue is - like other early/mid ECLE (mine is number 550 or so), it has unbuffered 7.5 light boards. Sure enough, the lights are freezing up on play. I can get maybe 5-10 minutes before most of the lights freeze. A reboot restores things, and they work fine in attract mode. Once I start play, they pretty consistently freeze up.

I opened a ticket with JJP. Short of installing 2.0 boards (which JJP says will be available 1Q 2023), is there anything else that can be done to limp along? Lower LED brightness? Disable shaker? Reflow solder on any of the boards? I’m open to suggestions.

Given this game was just unboxed and never registered prior to my purchase, I did register the game with JJP. I have no idea if the warranty is active.

Thanks, and please excuse all the questions from a new owner.

Go through ALL the connectors and make sure they’re tight. Good chance you worked one loose in transport.

Especially the switch lines going into the big metal box with all the boards. Take the top off the box, and grab the wire bundles inside and out and shove together real hard.

LTG : )

Thanks LTG (JJP should hire you back...) and konghusker. Will do. I just swapped out the cooling fan for something not made by Pratt and Witney.

Thanks for the suggestions. Did a thorough unplug/replug of all the cabinet connections, firmly squeezed each from both sides, then went through the entire lighting chain and pressed each connector firmly. I also disabled the shaker.

So far, no issues. Was able to get through a couple of games without any lights freezing. Fingers crossed. Ultimately, installation of 2.0 lighting is probably the long-term solution, but for now, I can enjoy this excellent title. Really is a knock-out. My third JJP, as well. Looks great next to Hobbit. Love those widebodies.

Agreed. My hobbit and Woz are never going anywhere. Also, the 7.5 v boards are pretty solid. If anything just pick up a spare set from someone that did the 2.0 conversion just as a backup plan for $250 or so, but most have been fine.

Spoke a bit too soon. Had a longer game, 25 min. Same lights froze up. I took a picture so I can ID the board that seems to be the problem. I'll go do a bit of troubleshooting and see if I can find a workaround.

edit: traced the lighting daisy-chain to the suspect bad board. Was one of the small boards at the front of the chain (#29) Swapped it for a board at the end of the chain, and all has been trouble-free over a couple of hours of play.

I went from 5.0 to 7.5 to 2.0 and that fixed it for good!

You can add me to the list please!

This game was bought probably 9 or 8 years ago and only 20 plays ??!!... How can this be possible? Someone spent several thousands dollars just to put this in some corner of his house as a decoration?

Only 20 plays and already has a dead GI board...
Are you really sure this pin has only 20 plays? Keep in mind that when doing a software upgrade, it will reset the count.

That is awesome and very happy you're taking a shot at a monkey mod! I am very interested in it.

I am interested as well...

If it's an original board, yes it can happen.

LTG : )

Condition was consistent with NIB. Absolutely no wear, no dust, and no small ball dents on the PF. Indistinguishable from a new pin from the crate. I’ve owned/restored about 70 games. This one was new.

Just me playing about a dozen games the last few days has nearly doubled the amount of visible, small, ball dents in the PF. Only the single board was bad. As soon as I moved it to the end of the lighting chain, the game has been stable and no lighting issues in about 3 hours of play.

Installed the Precision Flip system in green w/green Titan rubber. Shoots great! Quite a noticeable difference.

IMG_0061 (resized).JPG

IMG_0063 (resized).JPG

IMG_0065 (resized).JPG

Any thoughts on this? Thank you.

I'm also interested. Want to see the details though.
Looks like you had to move the castle walls?

I get this every now and then, the micro switches for the castle doors are quite sensitive and the return spring under the mini playfield for one of the doors can sometimes get knocked out of place and doesn't pull the door all the way in and other coils firing trigger the door switch and the game thinks theres a ball up there. A real pain in the ass to fix..

Check your doors in switch test mode and see if there is one which is just on the verge of triggering the switch when you push it. One of mine when this happens definitely doesn't feel quite right when it is meant to return to the closed position.

I can't recall which thread but I'm pretty sure there was some guidance on pinside which helped me pinpoint the spring and what you need to do to fix it.

Thank you! I will check that!
Full disclosure, when I installed the Pinball Mod Co awesome firey witch months ago, one of the two nuts that held the "witch tube" onto the metal base flew under my castle pf and has never "shaken free. " so I'm a bit concerned is wedged in there somewhere (over the rainbow... lol). I have on order full Cliffy set for WOZ, so I knew pulling all the mini pfs was in my future. It probably won't be here til Thanksgiving earliest though. So not sure if I should a) pull castle twice to fix this and later for Cliffy, B) don't play till Cliffy comes then do it all at once c) ignore the doors till Cliffys arrive.

Fwiw, in reading the complete thread but have been dying for months and today got to page 40 of 286!

Can you talk a little more about the differences. Flipper feel is really my only legit complaint on this pin.

Probably easiest to see the thread dedicated to these flippers. A significant change in flipper feel, for sure. Much more powerful and snappy. Most folks (myself included) turn down the flipper power when installing these. Also, amazingly more precise. Very, very repeatable shots. You have to try these to see what we’re talking about.

Thread here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/review-precision-pinball-products-cnc-flipper-system/page/24#post-7220728

Hi. I installed the Mezel mods lit Winkie target and the front of it rubs on the side of the playfield hole, I tried adding the plastic wedges in between the screws but no help.

Any ideas how to bend/adjust the target plastic or mech to move this towards center of the hole?

Thanks!

CB715C12-9C78-43F8-9346-9B698EE67A5C (resized).jpeg

Is it assembled correctly? It looks like its way off and it shouldnt be. Maybe assembled wrong?

Since the drop target is the same as the original black one, AND the original wasnt installed that way, Check your work.

For small adjustments:

Bend the entire metal mech (Pull it towards the front of the game) forwards.

You only have to tweak it a small amount to free it up.

Other than that, loosen the mounting screws and press it back as far as possible.

If that fails, pull out the mech and elongate its mounting holes a bit until you can push it where is needs to be.

If you are keeping a wanted list, mark me down please.