After trying what Lloyd has suggested please look at your TOTO tiny light boards. They are the 4 individual little boards that light the roll overs in the right outlane. They are mounted to the underside with 3m tape. Make sure one of them did not fall and is shorting out on a screw or something else. This really sounds like what happened to me. Everything all of a sudden went bonkers like you are describing.
Best wishes.
r/
Mike

I would check the 2 small boards that control the optos. Looks like most of the switches not working are activated by optos. There are also a couple of cables that connect both opto boards that are passing pretty close from witch up-down mechanism maybe one of those may not be full but partially cut and it is difficult to spot

Thanks everyone for the good ideas. I went through these boards and switches with a magnifying glass and have been unable to find anything amiss. I did a continuity test on all fuses earlier, but this time when I was magnifying everything, I noticed that F705 was partially melted. Then I realized for the first time that its LED and all fuse LEDs on that side of the back half of the board are not lit. Makes a man feel dumb to realize for the first time that the LEDs are there to help tired eyes more quickly identify a problem.

Of course, I don’t have any fuses of that size here, so I gotta go find them somewhere. I don’t know what the cause of the melting was so I might just be eating fuses since I didn’t find anything else amiss. I only found one moose screw and that was on the speaker magnet, so I don’t think that was causing an issue. I realize I mistyped “loose” there but moose made me giggle so I left it.

Maybe I’ll see if there’s another game I can steal a fuse from, just to see what happens. Until then, thanks for all the help and ideas people!

Oops, Nevermind. That fuse wasn’t blown and those LEDs are good… when I close the coin door. Duh. I just need to find some errant screw or wire still. Sheesh.

Newbie question - going to rebuild the flippers - bought flipper rebuild kits and new coils. After watching the video and reading online - coils are either working or not, should I replace them since I am rebuilding and bought new ones anyways or just keep the same coils...

If they are working. I would only replace the coil sleeve, coil stop, and plunger assembly.

LTG : )

Im posting this to help others in the future.

So this morning I turned on my WOZ and it would not boot.

I went through all the normal diagnostics, went into the Bios confirmed the SSD was present and accounted for..

Jumpered the motherboard... put a new CMOS battery in.

Still dead. I was about to reinstall the software when I looked at the screen in more detail..

It said in the boot screen "dependency failed for /mnt/usb"

I looked at the TP/Link wifi usb dongle.. and it was flashing furiously.... from the moment I turned on the machine.

I pulled it out and rebooted.

The game boots now and plays normal...

Anyone have this happen before?

Screen Shot 2022-09-29 at 9.07.55 AM (resized).png

I have the same warning since ages and it is not the cause of the issue, and it does not prevent my WOZ to start.
If the TP Link is blinking this is probably because it is exchanging data with access point and not because it is failing.

I bet that if you plug back in the wifi dongle, it will continue working.

EOS switches and springs too?

Unless bent or worn to kittywumpus, no. Save the extra new parts for spares.

LTG : )

Some folks have been clicking their heels together wishing for this button for a long time, and I finally got around to it -- WOZ 3D start button from Rocket City Pinball!

WOZ_lit_RCP (resized).jpg

This design is based on the red & yellow brick roads spiraling together in Munchkinland:

woz-film (resized).jpg

The matte red and yellow pieces are thin enough to allow them to glow when lit. The gaps left between the pieces are representative of the gray sections separating the red & yellow roads in the film; these gaps (and center) light up brightly through the clear/white filament used to print the base. The red and yellow pieces are printed separately and then integrated into the assembly during a mid-print pause. (Fun detail that you can only see in person -- I jussssst slightly over-squished the first layer of the red & yellow pieces, which causes my textured glass print bed to leave an impression of tiny squares on the surface, creating the illusion of little bricks!

Simple "START" text wouldn't do for this one -- instead, it reads "Off to see The Wizard" in WOZ themed font, printed in a sparkly green to represent the Emerald City.

WOZ_RCP (resized).jpg

Now available in my shop: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/07274-3d-start-button-wizard-of-oz

I like the buttons a lot, but I would like them better if the fronts were smooth and glass-like for cleaning purposes.

It looks like it will catch a lot of dust and grime.

Thanks for leaving the typo. It made me laugh and reminded me of a guilty pleasure (no way PC) movie with the moose reference.

What a great cast this film had. Brings back memories of seeing it at the drive-in with my parents.

Agreed. It would be very sharp with a clear cap over it.

My wizard is no longer lighting up (the actual head of the wizard on the clear plastic). Any suggestions on what to check? I did my best to check the connections around it and all looked good to me.

Power to the LED strip below it. Those 12 volt LED strips can fail. I'd start there.

Let jjp know to get LTG : ) Back.

It seems to be pretty common that the LED strips break over time, not sure if it repairable other than via replacement.
I got replacements from JJP twice then made my own using the wiring from the old one.

Castle VUK and bash sensor suddenly stopped working. Searched this thread and found Lloyd helping with this same issue a few months ago. I checked fuse F703 like he said and it is good. In fact all the fuses that I see are good. F703, F714, F711, F712, F713, and F709 all have the red light on next to them. Also there is a flashing red light on CPU chip. Please help.

2BBDCD31-5033-4BC7-8461-932E12729C2A (resized).jpeg

E2B4FCCB-1A16-46C8-9809-3D5EBB8161F0 (resized).jpeg

F024F7CA-AFC5-4D24-A346-5CDE3C0BB8D5 (resized).jpeg

Pull and check F710 with a meter.

Close coin door to light more fuses.

Fuse stream is D-170 in the manual.

LTG : )

I think the flashing light next to the rom looking chip on the I/O board is normal? I can’t verify because I am also having problems on my machine. But I think it means the CPU is accessing that rom chip. That’s what I think anyway, someone here can correct me

F710 is the culprit! Thank you Lloyd! Your service to this community over the years is second to none sir. I hope someday to meet you in person and buy you a drink. On a Saturday no less!

Thank you for the kind words my friend !

No shows in my future. I do hope we can meet one day.

LTG : )

We'll add you to the long waiting list

JJP - PLEASE BRING THE GREAT LTG : ) BACK!!

Too funny. They never would.

Thank you my friend !
LTG : )

3 of 5 flippers rebuilt. Man they shoot nice. I learned why people don’t replace bushings unless they have to. Snapped two screws. Had to take off entire flipper bracket to fix. And a trip to hardware store to get new screws and bolts. Thanks for all the help.

Teasing for a new winged monkey mod?

7.5v light kit for sale on ebay ebay.com link: itm

US$400 for a 2013 set with and 2 GI boards and 1 big board not working. Is this a joke?

I finally got a little time to search out the ghosts in my woz. No luck yet. May I present a couple of “findings” and see if it sets off any light bulbs?

The switches going nuts are mostly upper playfield, rail ball lock, trough, and the witch. Mostly optos.

Seems only two coils are misfiring during this—the castle VUK and the rail ball lock.

The castle VUK is more sporadic while the rail ball lock seems to be very consistent, always trying to be firing. I open the coin door and the rail ball lock stops but the castle vuk just keeps going.

I am reading a constant 23 volts on the castle VUK. Isn’t that supposed to be a higher voltage anyway? If a 23 volt line is somewhere getting in on that line, would that sporadically cause these fires?

I unplugged everything from the upper playfield in anticipation of removing it to look for the issue. Of course the castle VUK did finally stop firing but the switches are still going nuts just the same. Does that mean there’s no smart reason to go and remove the castle PF? If it’s all unplugged but switches are still going nuts, the problem isn’t up there, right?

I’ve been over the rest of the playfield, above and below, several times, and I really can’t find anything that looks wrong, is hanging down, has a screw lodged in/around it… I’m sure I’m missing something or it’s hidden, I’m just trying to figure out the smartest way to go next.

Page C-100 in the manual. 20 volt coil.

I wonder if the issue is on the I/O board ?

LTG : )

I have removed the I/O board and checked it for debris beneath it or on it, and checked the fuses, didn’t find anything untoward. Maybe if I unplug things one at a time while it’s on it’ll clue me into a cluster? Or is that a no-no? Maybe unplug them one at a time and reboot each new unplug?

I removed the castle playfiled and set it on a box under the fully raised playfield.

Plugged in all the connectors so I could look at it in action.

Now one can basically unplug one connector at a time until you can see the affected circuits live and "hands on".

This was very informative as I could see it in action and plug/unplug connectors at will, to troubleshoot and take voltage measurements.

Unplugging from the castle playfield allows one to trace back the wires to their corresponding circuit boards.

Definitely was enjoying learning while unplugging and such. It does help you follow the wires and “get it” better.

Interestingly, after a week of discord, the problems all stopped not long after my last post. I was putzing around the coin door and bent a quick connect on it, and I realized all the switches stopped chiming and the lights stopped flickering.

I sat down and stared at it for 7 minutes, waiting for the nonsense to begin again. It did not so I decided to put the playfield back down and see if it played right. As soon as I touched the metal playfield rails, the switches went nuts just as before. So I sat back down. After about 15 seconds, it stopped again.

I slid the playfield back in and near the end of seating it, switches went nuts for about 3 seconds. Then stopped. Then we played four games without issue.

I know this isn’t over, but this is at least an interesting series of nonsenses. Hey, after a week of it being unplayable, at least this little reprieve is kind of nice.

First thing I'd plug an outlet checker into the service outlet to see if game and wall are wired right and working.

Then lift playfield, look upon all edges - anything shorting to anything inside the cabinet when you lower it ? Top parts of coin door shorting to anything when the playfield is down ? Diagnostic switches - any of their wiring shorting to anything ?

Should be an easy fix once you find it.

LTG : )

Very common for the skill shot switch by the bumpers to be bent and touching the rails.

I will definitely look closely again at these things… and I gotta find my outlet checker too… I know it’ll be simple once I actually find the dern thing

All your ideas have been great and have given me more direction every time I’ve been floundering, thank you everyone! Thank you for suffering me through this nonsense.

For now, the lady was very happy to get to play it again tonight, and I even got a half million in a particularly exciting game (for us)

Sorry if you already did this and I missed it, but I was rereading your recent posts and wondered if you checked the opto I/O boards. There are two. If you swap them, does a different set of switches start going crazy? I wonder if one has issues.

Can anyone help me out and tell me what machine screw I need to buy to mount the munchkin playfield back to to the main playfield? I lost one under the shooter lane (who knew that could even happen?)

I looked in the manual, but the mounting parts aren't labeled in the assembly diagram. It's a long machine screw that uses a 1/4 hex driver to remove.

Thanks!

I sold off my old set missing 2 GIs and one bad big board and I nearly netted enough to pay for my 2.0 upgrade by selling them all individually. It took a lot of time and mailings but it helped probably a dozen or so WOZ owners out. So in reality, if you need one or two and want some spares, it’s a fair deal. You’ll just have to put in the work.

I’m pretty sure that the chances of the problem being there are high.
I have experienced similar problem with most of the switches activated by optos on the right side of the playfield, I remember coils firing non stop (can’t remember if it was castle door, guard vuk or both) switched both opto boards and the problem persisted. I was still clueless but ruled out that one of the opto board was the problem (being the right side opto board working when switched to the left side), followed then every single wire In each opto board. At the end found one of the wires that connect the opto boards between them was partially chewed.

24923E27-E153-4791-8DF1-D9450A35A408 (resized).jpeg

my 2.0 Scarecrow RGB board not lighting up. Of course, just after I did my awesome flipper rebuilds. Suggestions to trouble shoot?

Power to the board ?

Turn game off. Reseat ethernet cable both ends and push in tight.

LTG : )

Yes, power to the board. Tried the turn off, reseat Ethernet cable both ends. Still not working.

Fear I did something - I had my PinStadiums connected to the GI LED that hangs off the scarecrow board. I bent (broke) the PinStadisums and - could that have caused an electrical issue with the board?

I'm sorry. Yes.

Can one buy 2.0 replcements?

For parts call Martha at jjp or email her - [email protected]

I'm not with them anymore so I have no way to check.

Thanks for the help and contact info...

Thanks for the idea; the game worked great for two days and then went back to doing the same thing. I swapped the opto boards and it’s the same issue and switches m, so I reckon those are both okay.

Someone previously had mentioned looking for chewed or loose wires around the witch mech. I have a friend over and we were doing that, not seeing anything, but the switch frenzy certainly seemed to intensify when we were jostling the wires all around the witch.

We cut a few zip ties and inspected the wires around it pretty closely, not finding anything.

I think it’s weird how all the playfield lights flicker when all these switches go off. Seems like a clue to me, but could be normal I suppose.

We shall march forward on! Stiff upper lip and all that. Nevermind the blubbering bottom lip…

I mentioned also checking the skill shot switch to make sure it is not bent and touching the rail. Have you done that?