(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

8 years ago


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#14101 14 days ago
Quoted from PinballHelp:

I'm the first and only owner and it went through no temperature/humidity shocks. I live in a climate where it almost never freezes, so this is especially troubling.
Do you own an EC LE with this type of backglass? If so, have you checked yours? If not, then perhaps let's hear from some other owners after they've checked theirs...

My RR did the same thing to a smaller scale in the top right corner, I'm the only owner, the game has always been in a perfectly controlled environment, backglass had never been removed and it happened probably three years after I bought it. These are likely made by Mirco so we probably shouldn't be too surprised, still very dissappointing though. I bought a replacement from JJP ($$$) and put the old one in the shipping box, it's still sitting in there and I haven't opened it up to see if it's gotten worse or not, I should probably try to triple-thick it or something. I have nearly thrown it away several times just to get it out of my way.

#14102 14 days ago

For those who have upgraded to the latest run of led kit 2.0, did you notice the lightning is now dimmer than with old 7.5VDC kit?
That's a recurrent complaint from people having installed 2.0, and I would like to understand if this has been fixed with newest 2.0 kits.

#14103 14 days ago

Hi, people! New to the club as of last night! I searched for a fix but am not finding anything, and while I hate coming to a party with problems, here I am. I have discovered two things.

1. Throne Room VUK works fine but it isn’t registering when the ball is in there. I can’t make the opto activate in switch tests. Cleaned the opto, followed the wires back to a board and reseated the connector, but no dice get.

2. Also the twister upper PF… the ramp in switch works, second ramp switch works, but the diverter doesn’t divert the ball when you’ve spelled rainbow for twister loop. Actually, even when you haven’t spelled rainbow, it goes through the munchkin huts and gets stopped by the holding bar until we go into ball search. I don’t see a switch under the huts. Maybe there’s a third switch that tells the game a ball is on the ramp that isn’t working, so the diverter doesn’t get told to go down and the hut holder arm doesn’t know to release? Something is awry…

I’ll keep working at it, but I figured I’d toss in here and see if anyone’s experience saves me a headache.

Thanks!

#14104 14 days ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

I don’t see a switch under the huts.

In front by the arm that holds them, three sets of optos. In Settings you can adjust the timing of the arm to release a ball or balls.

Quoted from deejaypee:

I can’t make the opto activate in switch tests.

Opto driver board under the playfield. Try that opto connector in a different spot. If it works in Tests - Switches - Matrixed as a different switch, then you know the optos are good. If not, then bad opto or wires from the opto to the opto driver board.

Call jjp, tell them to get LTG : ) back for his 50th Anniversary !

#14105 14 days ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

Hi, people! New to the club as of last night! I searched for a fix but am not finding anything, and while I hate coming to a party with problems, here I am. I have discovered two things.
1. Throne Room VUK works fine but it isn’t registering when the ball is in there. I can’t make the opto activate in switch tests. Cleaned the opto, followed the wires back to a board and reseated the connector, but no dice get.
2. Also the twister upper PF… the ramp in switch works, second ramp switch works, but the diverter doesn’t divert the ball when you’ve spelled rainbow for twister loop. Actually, even when you haven’t spelled rainbow, it goes through the munchkin huts and gets stopped by the holding bar until we go into ball search. I don’t see a switch under the huts. Maybe there’s a third switch that tells the game a ball is on the ramp that isn’t working, so the diverter doesn’t get told to go down and the hut holder arm doesn’t know to release? Something is awry…
I’ll keep working at it, but I figured I’d toss in here and see if anyone’s experience saves me a headache.
Thanks!

Does the diverter work in test?

#14106 14 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

In front by the arm that holds them, three sets of optos. In Settings you can adjust the timing of the arm to release a ball or balls.

Opto driver board under the playfield. Try that opto connector in a different spot. If it works in Tests - Switches - Matrixed as a different switch, then you know the optos are good. If not, then bad opto or wires from the opto to the opto driver board.
Call jjp, tell them to get LTG : ) back for his 50th Anniversary !

How did I guess you’d be all over this? I’ve barked at JJP about you before and I’ll do it again. I wish I had more power in the world because I’ve never seen such a phenomenal brand ambassador and knowledgeable, friendly fella in all my life! It is unconscionable that they haven’t brought you back with a bonkers apology bonus.

I see those three optos by the munchkin huts now, thank you. They aren’t doing squat in tests, but I know they and the throne room opto were all doing their job yesterday. I’m not sure what they have in common.

Five minutes ago, I dropped a ball into the throne room and suddenly, the matrix started going nuts, firing for the throne room a couple of times, and then rapidly bouncing back and forth on #12 (spinning house home) and #14 (not used). Seeing as how all of these, plus the 3 ramp ball locks (#’s 9, 10, and 11) are all in the same column on the matrix, I’m starting to feel a theme…

Thanks for your help again LTG, you’re the man!

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#14107 14 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Does the diverter work in test?

It does! All the coils are doing their things in test. Checked em all out just because.

#14108 14 days ago

Good-ish news! I went searching for J201-2 (this machine’s setup is different from my others so I just started putzing with the big connectors at the back of the mysterious computer box in the cabinet) and those same opto switches started going nuts again when I wiggled a few of the connectors. Since the wires are all bundled I wasn’t sure which one had J201-2 but I shoved them all in more and now all those optos are working well!

Is it common for those connectors to be kind of spongy? Pushing in on them, the housings in the computer box part aren’t really firmly set in the box, so they all pushed in and come back out when I’m trying to seat the connector firmly. I guess I’ll see about opening that box up and making sure all the connectors are properly locked if the problem returns.

Thanks again, and also in particular, LTG for president. I’d vote for him.

#14109 14 days ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

Is it common for those connectors to be kind of spongy?

With the weight of the many harnesses and movement of game and playfield, can loosen things. Once settled in they are good to go for a long time.

Quoted from deejaypee:

I’ve barked at JJP about you

Thank you.

LTG : )

#14110 14 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

With the weight of the many harnesses and movement of game and playfield, can loosen things. Once settled in they are good to go for a long time.

Thank you.
LTG : )

You said it. There’s a lot of tight cables, and they don’t seem to have minded pinching some of them at the factory. I have this annoying audio buzz and I followed some of the cables around to find that one is basically pinched in half to do a 180. Fiddled with that and the buzz goes away until I let go again. Now it’s a little worse than before. Oops.

It looks like my optos problem is related to a low voltage connector. I pushed the playfield back in and the problem returned. Opened her up again and unseated/reseated a bunch and this one little power connector is the one causing my problems, little four-position molex just won’t hold the connection tight. I’m gonna work with it some more. I might have the right pins for these connectors even, but that it a last resort.

#14111 14 days ago

You will get it fixed such a classic!

#14112 12 days ago

Can someone please confirm this is 2.0 lighting boards? About to buy this off someone. Looking forward to being part of the club!

34DAD1EC-4DEF-4D5A-83E0-CC379CCC7276 (resized).jpeg46DCDF6E-AA04-429D-80C9-2690EA1022DD (resized).jpeg6BC41FD0-FD5C-4232-9281-13DB31F5621E (resized).jpegD3F5A4DF-8F85-4ECC-AEDF-10A4254C2A89 (resized).jpeg
#14113 12 days ago
Quoted from chaz009:

Can someone please confirm this is 2.0 lighting boards?

Yes. Ethernet cables are a dead giveaway.

LTG : )

#14114 12 days ago
Quoted from chaz009:

Can someone please confirm this is 2.0 lighting boards? About to buy this off someone. Looking forward to being part of the club!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, those are 2.0 boards, the blue Cat5/6 cables are a certain indicator. Now why is that foot / shoe in the second picture, I'm very curious about that one.

#14115 12 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Yes, those are 2.0 boards, the blue Cat5/6 cables are a certain indicator. Now why is that foot / shoe in the second picture, I'm very curious about that one.

Haha. To confirm it’s his pics. A request by me.

#14116 12 days ago
Quoted from chaz009:

Haha. To confirm it’s his pics. A request by me.

I need to know the size make and model of the shoe please...

And if its a mod, where do I buy it...

#14117 12 days ago

Some things I have noticed after upgrading to 7.04.

The sound is quirky. Sometimes it will progressively get more and more quiet until the sound can barly be heard. It will return to normal out of nowhere eventually.

Front panel headphone volume is grayed out for me even though I have front panel volume controls. Front panel master volume control w/free play is also grayed out while set to free play.

Pop bumpers will not go below 24 setting which is pretty damn high. I’d like to be able to tone them down a little. Oddly state fair balloon will go as low as 20 but is also still too high.

Slings also seem to be firing a little hot with the option of going no lower than 20. Top sling will go to 10 but for some reason also seems too high (but probably shouldnt be at this low of a setting).

End of game music cuts off abruptly once the game over sequence has finished playing. Previously it would fade out.

Also unable to save adjusted time and date. Although I am able to adjust and save the time zone.

Previous codes seemed to be pretty dialed in, this one seems a bit quirky. Something I am not used to seeing with this game. Nothing game stopping but…..

Maybe someone from JJP can shed some light on these issues

#14118 12 days ago
Quoted from chaz009:

Can someone please confirm this is 2.0 lighting boards? About to buy this off someone. Looking forward to being part of the club!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm no expert but I have questionss with these pictures.
First off the born on date is 8/14/2013 making it one of the earliest machines to roll off the line so definitely started life as a ECLE with the version 1 5.0v boards. Probably one of the first 500 JJP machines ever made.

Next the 2.0 lights sure look like the 2.0 light but they are totally different from my 2.0 kit that I put on my RRWOZ. See pics below.
Notice how the main ethernet header is on the fish board and not a separate stand up like mine. ( I like this better but haven't seen it before.) *edit - (answered below, Yes this is the newer version)

Lastly, what is that tennis shoe doing/hiding? *edit - (answered below, buyers request)

I love my WOZ and think everyone should own one but be careful.
IMG_4519.JPGIMG_4520.JPGIMG_4521.JPGIMG_4522.JPG

#14119 12 days ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Next the 2.0 lights sure look like the 2.0 light but they are totally different from my 2.0 kit that I put on my RRWOZ. See pics below.
Has the 2.0 kit changed since the original 2.0 add on kit?

Notice how the main ethernet header is on the fish board and not a separate stand up like mine. ( I like this better but haven't seen it before.) Also the pics are too small for my eyes to read any of the numbers.

The original kit and set of boards had a separate bag board. At some point, they integrated the bag board into one of the LED boards. It was explained to me at one point as being an easier design or perhaps one that didn’t have unnecessary components, but I forget. Anyway, the newer kits have an integrated bag board so you don’t have to worry about mounting the bag board separately.

from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-20-lighting

#14120 12 days ago
Quoted from chaz009:

Can someone please confirm this is 2.0 lighting boards? About to buy this off someone. Looking forward to being part of the club!

Would be interesting to get a picture of what is inside the metal box. If it is a unit produced very early, then power supply and motherboard are inside front panel. Not great if you need to do some servicing. There also might be a risk this is a prototype - DO NOT buy prototype.

Get the serial number of this unit, and ask JJP support what are the known issues with this unit.

#14121 12 days ago

Very good points. I agree with what mine looks like and like you said WTF is up with the shoe?!?

Quoted from fnosm:

I'm no expert but I have problems with these pictures.
First off the born on date is 8/14/2013 making it one of the earliest machines to roll off the line so definitely started life as a ECLE with the version 1 5.0v boards. Probably one of the first 50 JJP machines ever made.
Next the 2.0 lights sure look like the 2.0 light but they are totally different from my 2.0 kit that I put on my RRWOZ. See pics below.
Has the 2.0 kit changed since the original 2.0 add on kit?
Notice how the main ethernet header is on the fish board and not a separate stand up like mine. ( I like this better but haven't seen it before.) Also the pics are too small for my eyes to read any of the numbers.
Lastly, what is that tennis shoe doing/hiding?
If this game isn't going cheap or from someone you know real well I would walk away.
I love my WOZ and think everyone should own one but be careful.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#14122 12 days ago

Guys, the shoe was put there by MY request to ensure the pictures were in fact coming from him.

This is number 632/1000 of the ECLEs, so I don't think this was one the of the first machines, unless the numbers aren't in order of production? Certainly not a pre-production unit if it has a number associated with LEs right?

#14123 12 days ago
Quoted from chaz009:

Guys, the shoe was put there by MY request to ensure the pictures were in fact coming from him.
This is number 632/1000 of the ECLEs, so I don't think this was one the of the first machines, unless the numbers aren't in order of production? Certainly not a pre-production unit if it has a number associated with LEs right?

Probably not a proto.
But there is no correlation between LE number and production date.
When ordering a JJP pinball, you can choose your LE Number.

You really need to double check with JJP support what are the known issues for this device.
As it is provided with LED 2.0 this is really a good thing, because this is the most time consuming operation for WOZ.
But you should be aware that many Power Supply boards were built with a incorrect capacitor. This could destroy some other components.

#14124 12 days ago
Quoted from julien_06480:

Probably not a proto.
But there is no correlation between LE number and production date.
When ordering a JJP pinball, you can choose your LE Number.
You really need to double check with JJP support what are the known issues for this device.
As it is provided with LED 2.0 this is really a good thing, because this is the most time consuming operation for WOZ.
But you should be aware that many Power Supply boards were built with a incorrect capacitor. This could destroy some other components.

When the original powersupply board goes, you'll likely lose your cpu board at the same time.

The PS boards are no longer supported (chip discontinuation), but JJP does have an updated supply you can buy. Based on the fact that I had two original PS go belly up (both of which took out the cpu board), I'd contact JJP and get the new PS.

#14125 12 days ago
Quoted from chaz009:

Guys, the shoe was put there by MY request to ensure the pictures were in fact coming from him.
This is number 632/1000 of the ECLEs, so I don't think this was one the of the first machines, unless the numbers aren't in order of production? Certainly not a pre-production unit if it has a number associated with LEs right?

It was not one of the first off the line. My WOZ ECLE was made 2 months prior to yours. No issues. My LE number is 612/1000.

Quoted from 27dnast:

When the original powersupply board goes, you'll likely lose your cpu board at the same time.
The PS boards are no longer supported (chip discontinuation), but JJP does have an updated supply you can buy. Based on the fact that I had two original PS go belly up (both of which took out the cpu board), I'd contact JJP and get the new PS.

There are hundreds if not thousands of those boards out. They don't "just blow up". Seems like a lot of Pinsiders like to think the sky is falling. Yes if it fails it may cause additional damage.... IF it fails. While there have been some cases mentioned here there are way more folks with no issue at all. P.S. There is no plug-in replacement BTW. The "new" PS involves hacking things a bit. It's all on Pinside.

#14126 12 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

When the original powersupply board goes, you'll likely lose your cpu board at the same time.
The PS boards are no longer supported (chip discontinuation), but JJP does have an updated supply you can buy. Based on the fact that I had two original PS go belly up (both of which took out the cpu board), I'd contact JJP and get the new PS.

My UPS board destroyed 20 led boards. But was not related to capacitor. Some others components were involved leading to provide +45VDC to those LED boards (instead of +7.5VDC).

#14127 12 days ago

It is a cleaner design for sure.

I wonder if the fish board can be swapped and then remove the old hub or if other boards would need replacement too?

#14128 12 days ago
Quoted from chaz009:

Guys, the shoe was put there by MY request to ensure the pictures were in fact coming from him.
This is number 632/1000 of the ECLEs, so I don't think this was one the of the first machines, unless the numbers aren't in order of production? Certainly not a pre-production unit if it has a number associated with LEs right?

Serial number is the number to go by.
My guess at the breakdown of the SN is:
087 - ALL JJP Games have started with number. (Well, my TS4 is missing the leading Zero, so 87 is the common denominator)
0 - First JJP Game (WOZ)
1 - Version (ECLE)
327 - 327th game manufactured.

Makes me wonder if there is a 08701751 or higher out there?

#14129 12 days ago

Thanks to your help and a lot of wire chasing, our new woz is playing perfectly now. It’s just those darn connectors at the back of the computer box in the cab. They’re a little wobbly and I might have to do some re-pinning connectors in the future, but now they’re all good and the shaker motor has failed to knock them loose after 60 games or so!

The lady and kids absolutely love this game—I haven’t seen so much sneaking off to the basement since I was a teenager. I am also into it, but I’m so bad at the castle playfield that I can’t rescue Dorothy and I’ve convinced myself I’ll need to level it or something else that isn’t my (lack of) skills’ fault

I have found that I’m not getting sound from the right side backbox speakers. The motherboard’s output is a little sketchy but replacing and swapping cables has led me to find that the issue is in the speaker itself. Perhaps sometime in its life it’s popped a solder up there. Gonna go in there next but I saw all the tiny screws holding the speaker part of the backbox on made me take a break. Anyone else had to go up in there? Is that the best/only access?

#14130 12 days ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

Is that the best/only access?

Yes. Careful of the wires when you remove it.

LTG : )

#14131 12 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

When the original powersupply board goes, you'll likely lose your cpu board at the same time.
The PS boards are no longer supported (chip discontinuation), but JJP does have an updated supply you can buy. Based on the fact that I had two original PS go belly up (both of which took out the cpu board), I'd contact JJP and get the new PS.

Quoted from deejaypee:

Thanks to your help and a lot of wire chasing, our new woz is playing perfectly now. It’s just those darn connectors at the back of the computer box in the cab. They’re a little wobbly and I might have to do some re-pinning connectors in the future, but now they’re all good and the shaker motor has failed to knock them loose after 60 games or so!
The lady and kids absolutely love this game—I haven’t seen so much sneaking off to the basement since I was a teenager. I am also into it, but I’m so bad at the castle playfield that I can’t rescue Dorothy and I’ve convinced myself I’ll need to level it or something else that isn’t my (lack of) skills’ fault
I have found that I’m not getting sound from the right side backbox speakers. The motherboard’s output is a little sketchy but replacing and swapping cables has led me to find that the issue is in the speaker itself. Perhaps sometime in its life it’s popped a solder up there. Gonna go in there next but I saw all the tiny screws holding the speaker part of the backbox on made me take a break. Anyone else had to go up in there? Is that the best/only access?

Keep in mind that they have line filters on the audio that sometimes fail. I had the same issue. No sound on 1 side. It was the filter that died. You can bypass the filter(may get some hum) or replace.

#14132 12 days ago

Oh okay….Sorry missed that part! If he throws in the left shoe then I say take the deal!

Quoted from chaz009:

Guys, the shoe was put there by MY request to ensure the pictures were in fact coming from him.
This is number 632/1000 of the ECLEs, so I don't think this was one the of the first machines, unless the numbers aren't in order of production? Certainly not a pre-production unit if it has a number associated with LEs right?

#14133 12 days ago
Quoted from julien_06480:

For those who have upgraded to the latest run of led kit 2.0, did you notice the lightning is now dimmer than with old 7.5VDC kit?
That's a recurrent complaint from people having installed 2.0, and I would like to understand if this has been fixed with newest 2.0 kits.

Good Morning. I have not noticed anything different from when I installed my new 2.0 kit as compared to the 7.5v ones. I just finished installing mine real recently.

#14134 12 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Keep in mind that they have line filters on the audio that sometimes fail. I had the same issue. No sound on 1 side. It was the filter that died. You can bypass the filter(may get some hum) or replace.

I checked the signals post the filters that I saw, was still getting sound on both channels —thanks!

Quoted from LTG:

Yes. Careful of the wires when you remove it.
LTG : )

I’m thinking that if JJP is too stupid to know your value, but we are not, maybe we pinside members should just crowdsource a salary to keep you here spreading your wisdom. I’m tired of feeling guilty getting your excellent advice for free. Thank you!

#14135 12 days ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

I’m tired of feeling guilty getting your excellent advice for free.

Please don't feel guilty. I'm just trying to make my little corner of pinball a little bit better.

No, thank you. For allowing me to help you and others enjoy your games !

Quoted from deejaypee:

I’m thinking that if JJP is too stupid

No. They know what they are doing. They had no need for somebody showing off their games inside and out, referring people to jjp distributors to buy them. Doing tech support across four phones, two email addresses, or stopping in at my business. And Pinside and Facebook. Or helping out at Expo, TPF, and MGC.

Old guys like me, well known in the industry and hobby, aren't needed anymore.

LTG : )

#14136 12 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Old guys like me, well known in the industry and hobby, aren't needed anymore.

Bullshit.

#14137 11 days ago

Come on. It was funnier than my Stern Pinball Alley joke.

LTG : )

#14138 11 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Come on. It was funnier than my Stern Pinball Alley joke.
LTG : )

Still its bullshit.

People like you are the best of the best.

Decades of experience, freely given, is impossible to get anywhere but here.

JJP in its infinite wisdom is taking a much harder road without you.

Pinside is VERY fortunate that you continue to contribute in spite of circumstance.

Keep up the excellent work!

Jokingly or not, I had to say something.

#14139 11 days ago

LTG has helped me so many times for many years with games from EM's to early Solid State to current pins. I'm so grateful he continues to be of such great help to many people.

#14140 11 days ago
Quoted from julien_06480:

For those who have upgraded to the latest run of led kit 2.0, did you notice the lightning is now dimmer than with old 7.5VDC kit?
That's a recurrent complaint from people having installed 2.0, and I would like to understand if this has been fixed with newest 2.0 kits.

It changed enough for me that I actually bought pinstadiums - and I hate pinstadiums! Insterts look are fine, it's the GI lighting.

#14141 11 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

It changed enough for me that I actually bought pinstadiums - and I hate pinstadiums! Insterts look are fine, it's the GI lighting.

A note for those with the Munchkin Huts mod, the Pinstadiums don't fit behind/around them. I had to cut my right side Pinstadium bar so it starts below the huts.

#14142 10 days ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

Thanks to your help and a lot of wire chasing, our new woz is playing perfectly now. It’s just those darn connectors at the back of the computer box in the cab. They’re a little wobbly and I might have to do some re-pinning connectors in the future, but now they’re all good and the shaker motor has failed to knock them loose after 60 games or so!
The lady and kids absolutely love this game—I haven’t seen so much sneaking off to the basement since I was a teenager. I am also into it, but I’m so bad at the castle playfield that I can’t rescue Dorothy and I’ve convinced myself I’ll need to level it or something else that isn’t my (lack of) skills’ fault
I have found that I’m not getting sound from the right side backbox speakers. The motherboard’s output is a little sketchy but replacing and swapping cables has led me to find that the issue is in the speaker itself. Perhaps sometime in its life it’s popped a solder up there. Gonna go in there next but I saw all the tiny screws holding the speaker part of the backbox on made me take a break. Anyone else had to go up in there? Is that the best/only access?

Hey Doug! Just curious if you're going to be considering doing a bit of Hyperlytes experimentation with your WOZ. I'm in if you get some up and running! Definitely will have to work with 2.0 boards though.

#14143 10 days ago

Anyone have the monkey mod for sale?

#14144 6 days ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

Hey Doug! Just curious if you're going to be considering doing a bit of Hyperlytes experimentation with your WOZ. I'm in if you get some up and running! Definitely will have to work with 2.0 boards though.

Hey man! I got your note too… for a half dozen reasons I’m not dreaming of that right now. Hey I’ll tell everyone about one of those reasons in my next post! Stay tuned

#14145 6 days ago

So the new to me woz, I had it rocking and rolling, the family was having a great time… had the sound working right and the munchkin hut lockup behaving correctly… initially it appeared fixed when I just reseated some cables.

A few days later though, suddenly the castle VUK and munchkin hut lockup coil started firing randomly and it started to burn the hut coil. Even with the coin door open, those two coils wouldn’t stop.

Today, readdressed the cabling to pretty much everything and turned it back on just to see what was happening. The castle VUK still regularly fired with the coin door open but not anything else that I could tell. I closed the coin door and the munchkin lockup bar started doing its thing again. Went into switch matrix test to see if anything was awry in there, and… well I need to share a video for this. It’s beyond me—anyone have a little experience with a haunted machine??

#14146 6 days ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

anyone have a little experience with a haunted machine??

I'd check out the manual. Page D-159 and D-160. This covers the connectors at the back of the big metal box with all the boards.

Turn the game off. Remove the metal cover. Pull the playfield forward and rest on the front of the cabinet. Any connector associated with optos and switches. I'd grab the wires both sides and give everything a huge push together to be sure the wires are seated tight.

See if that helps.
LTG : )

#14147 6 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd check out the manual. Page D-159 and D-160. This covers the connectors at the back of the big metal box with all the boards.
Turn the game off. Remove the metal cover. Pull the playfield forward and rest on the front of the cabinet. Any connector associated with optos and switches. I'd grab the wires both sides and give everything a huge push together to be sure the wires are seated tight.
See if that helps.
LTG : )

I take solace in the fact that you don’t appear freaked out.

I basically did this operation without looking at the manual, but I figured I’d be doing it again, and looking at the manual would probably be wise so I’m more focused anyway.

Thanks LTG ! JerseyJack loses esteem every day they are foolish enough to not have you on board.

I’ll keep you apprised

#14148 5 days ago

Eh, no luck. With the game off, I decided to carefully firm up every darn connector in there—in the box, from the playfield, by the coin door, everywhere. Turned the game on and everything was good. Had to lift the playfield to put the cover back on the computer box. No problem. Lowered the playfield and was about to carefully slide it back in, snd I got what I now call those 3 “always” switches—

J201-9, 57 Witch Target Left and 58 Witch Target Right

J202-2, 73 Winkie Drop Target

(57 & 73 are both on Return 1, J200-1)

Those always trigger out of nowhere first, and the rest of the group usually follows. In completely random timing, but all at once. I’m also noticing that all the playfield lights flicker every time it happens. That might not mean anything. There are probably lots of red herrings here.

Anyway, armed with this dubious intel, I’m gonna go look at the manual more and see if I can break the code. Here’s a video showing the 3 “always” switches, some random timing, and the lights flickering for entertainment.

#14149 5 days ago

I'd look over the fuse bank on the I/O board, see if a LED/fuse is out.

LTG : )

#14150 5 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd look over the fuse bank on the I/O board, see if a LED/fuse is out.

Page D-170 Fuse 701. Mini Blade fuse, might not have a LED.

LTG : )

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