It sounds like the defective boards were a recent issue. But, one risk of waiting is not knowing whether one of your boards is bad. When I did the upgrade a few years ago, I had two bad light boards that needed to be replaced.

Finally, a shout out to Pinside for the ability to research the forums for guidance while attempting this conversion .. and to the Pinsiders I spoke with on the phone; LTG and Pin Monk.

And thanks to Steve Arpino, who did all the heavy lifting on this project. IMO, he is CNY's best pinball repair tech .. and I would have never attempted this install without him.

20220703_114819 (resized).jpg

I asked the same question a couple days ago and Steve from JJP answered immediately. Our kits are not impacted and it was a limited number of boards from this latest run.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/276#post-7004527

r/Mike

How true that is....they need you back! Give me Jack's number and I'll get things rolling!

Don't you make housecalls in Pennsylvania Derick??

I've never been to PA, I wouldn't mind checking it out.

Thank you.

Sad fact is he and the rest don't care. Otherwise I'd send you his number. It would just fall on deaf ears.

LTG : )

I started #bringltgback on Instagram, let's put it high on the trend, power by the numbers !

#bringltgback

Updated my WOZ RR from 6.61 to 7.04 today and got it up and running with WiFi and Scorbit. Played a bunch of games and it worked perfectly. Then, suddenly, the castle doors stopped registering hits and the VUK behind the doors no longer kicks the ball out. In test modes, the switches don’t register hits and that castle VUK won’t fire.

The door motors test fine and all other game switches and coils seem fine. Did I blow a fuse or what to check first? Which fuse should I check? Aside from this issue, I forgot how absolutely punishing this game is. It’s just brutal and the scores are so low. Talk about frustrating, wow. Makes Hobbit next to it feel like a walk in the park!

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F703 first then F710, and F711, on the I/O board.

Those are the 20 volts for your doors and VUK. Try and get them working first. Then in Tests - Switches - Matrixed see what bashing the doors does. If all the other switches work that won't be a fuse.

My suspicion is F703, 20mm 6.3 amp time delayed. That would kill power to F710, F711, and F712 ( your knocker )

The fuses are on pages D-169, D-170, and D171 in the manual. If you don't have it, you can download it from jjp under Support - Downloads - WOZ.

LTG : )

Thanks so much Lloyd! I’m optimistic that it’s just a blown fuse and will test and replace the aforementioned fuses you mentioned, as appropriate. Will report back findings tomorrow, had enough of messing with it tonight.

Thank you.

I signed up on Instagram. Now how do I find this ?

LTG : )

Looked at WoZ this past weekend and it will not power up. Tested the ATX power supply and it is not giving any power. Has anybody replaced one recently? Just wondering if I need anything specific or if a generic one will work.

Did you already try the "jump start" technique?

Generic one will work fine.

Just to cover all bases, did you try jump starting it ?

LTG : )

My buddy just picked up a Standard Edition built in July 2014, I believe the light boards are the 7.5v version, but the Castle PF lights are a bit wonky and Im wondering if you can point me in the right direction so I can help him out.

So the lightboard is W8, the Castle Upper Playfield with the RESCUE lights. After going through the lights test it appears that 4 of the lights are not working properly, one doesn't work at all and 3 of them only display one color (R:Red, E(1):Green, C:NONE, and E(2):Red), the others work properly. It appears that the Mini-PF takes a bit of effort to remove so I want to know more before I start poking around. No other lightboards are currently experiencing issues.

Does anyone have an idea if this is fixable? Or is this an LED board replacement situation? If so, does anyone have a W8 lightboard they would be willing to part with? Let me know. Thanks.

New board, or bypass the RESCUE lights.

Page C-55 run the data line from #31 bypass W8 and go to #30 ( cable won't reach ) and turn off in Settings. When you get a new board, be sure and turn it back on.

LTG : )

You’re almost certainly not going to have 4 bad light boards in a row. First thing to do is go into the settings and make sure all led boards are turned ON. Then follow the data cables and check the sequence to make sure none have been bypassed physically. Next bypass the entire castle playfield from below the main playfield. Turn all of those boards off in the settings (30, 31, WOZ8) and see if all other light boards and led colors work correctly. This will help narrow it down.

Dammit Lloyd

He is just that good!!

The issue is only with the one lightboard, the W8 one, all of the R-E-S-C-U-E lights are contained on that one board, no?

Also, no other lightboards downstream appear to be affected. If I don't bypass the board for the time being is there a risk of further damage to other boards? The lights on the upper pf are nice to have, even if 4 of them aren't functioning properly.

Fuse F710 was blown. I replaced it with a new one and played a dozen games bashing the crap out of the castle doors and everything works perfectly again.

Not sure what caused it to blow, but glad that's all it was. On my last game, I was able to muster just over 1M and #5 high score. This game is super tough and does get repetitive, but it's still a gorgeous pin and timeless theme. I find the flippers get weaker after the game warms up and the munchkin ramps starts to become difficult to make. I did turn up the power on all of the flipper coils some, but it's still an annoyance. Anyone know how to keep the flippers snappy, do I need the PinMonk fans on this game? Hobbit doesn't experience this issue, but it's noticeable on WOZ. Game is a 2015 RR, built on 8/17/2015.

No.

LTG : )

I'd consider it.

LTG : )

Thanks mike, now I can sleep

I searched bringltgback and nothing!

You won't find coil coolers kits for woz or hobbit unless you look elsewhere. Woz absolutely benefits from coil coolers. I have a temp chart for woz in my listing.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1391-ravspec

It doesn't work like that. Instagram doesn't index all the hashtags, they have to be picked on so either liked a lot or used a lot.

These coolers are simple to install and WORK perectly.

Also they are very quiet, almost silent.

DO you have an opinion on 2 flipper vs 3 flipper for these fans? Is a fan really necessary for the 3rd flipper?

Woz can be ordered in a 2 or 3 flipper config. 3rd flipper coil does heat up but not as much as the lowers.

2 flippers is enough in my opinion.

The only JJP machine I have Tibetan Breeze cooling kits for right now is the JJP GnR machine because JJP has super-tight clearances on some of the flipper plates on all the other machines they sell and it makes it impossible to mount the fan brackets properly with the design I've been using basically since the start almost 3 years ago.

HOWEVER, since last summer I have been working on a universal JJP cooling bracket that will work on all the JJP machines (WoZ, Hobbit, Dialed In, Wonka, PotC, Toy Story 4, as well as GnR if you want to go with these instead of the blue ones I already sell for GnR only). It's taken way longer than I expected to get it right, but I believe I have it right now. I needed to make one tweak on the most recent candidate I had out for testing and it will be good to go. The bonus is it will be even quieter than my current Spike/Spooky fans, essentially silent once the coin door is closed. The people testing it have commented on it. Some thought the fans weren't working because they couldn't hear them once the machine was closed up.

I expect to be shipping these new JJP bracket designs later in August once the next (and likely final) round of testing is completed. I believe owners will be extremely happy with how they look and also that they are properly situated to cool the coils most efficiently - no weird distance mounting just to kludge them in to a space they don't fit right. Keep an eye on the pinmonk.com site or my pinside store for them. Since I expect these to be in high demand, I may open a presale in advance of them shipping. Undecided as of now.

EDIT: The new JJP bracket design also works on all CGC remake machines, which haven't had a Tibetan Breeze kit yet, either.

Anyone else beside JJP sell the GI led boards? found one today that is not putting out the corrrect color, and no color one one of selections, and sort of a yellow in the "white" mode...7.5v I need

If you're still with the 7.5 boards I would suggest putting up a PARTS WANTED post in the Marketplace. A lot of people are receiving the upgraded 2.0 boards (150 sets are in the process of being shipped by JJP now) so there will be a lot of people looking to sale the 7.5 boards.

If you find someone selling off 7.5V boards, please let me know. I need the W8 board for the Castle Upper PF.

Just reassembled the top side after doing a deep clean and came up with this message “Check matrixes switch #24, Left orbit enter stuck open”.

Anyone know how to reset this switch or what may be causing the error?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Hasn't been hit or worked recently.

Go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed, see if it works there. Page C-24 in the manual shows the location. May need adjusting, or broken wire kind of stuff.

Call jjp and tell them to get LTG : ) back.

Do you have the manual?

Download it here - https://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/woz/Wizard_of_Oz_Manual_3_5_Dec_2016.pdf

LTG : )

2.0 Boards!

I just had it out of the machine, so I’m guessing something funky happened when I put it back in. I do have the manual. Just installed the 2.0 kit and decided to put on a play field protector (I’ve started to get some chipping), so I’ve been working on her for the better part of two days and my brain is fried. Castle door by the winged monkey has also started binding so I think I need to remove and re-seat the castle playfield anyway. Was hoping blindly that there was just a magic button I could press, but I’ll dive back in tomorrow and hopefully get it sorted. Thanks for the help.

Are you suggesting I get the 2.0 Boards? Are they even readily available?

AFAIK 2.0 kits are still sold, and yes I think it's a great upgrade and puts light board issues to bed.

As stated before JJP just received 150 2.0 board sets in and was going through their waiting list. Best to send them an email asking if they're available and, if not, get on the waiting list for the next batch.

At this point you already have two boards out that you're replacing so might as well upgrade now and, as zaphx advised, "put light board issues to bed".

It's possible that you need to adjust the switch arm so it sits higher as the ball may not be activating it with the protector installed.

Spoke with Steve at JJP, he advised that all the 150 2.0 board sets are spoken for and another 250 and 500 sets (two orders?), are on order and won't be here for several months out as of now...

Loving my WoZ. Only complaint is an issue feeding the shooter lane. Tried stronger and weaker coil settings but no real improvement. Takes more than one energizing to get it to work. Sometimes it takes 4 or 5. Sometimes it ends the ball depending on when it's trying to do it (ie: TOTO and TNPLH modes, sometimes after a ball lock).

Anyone have any luck with a fix? WoZ-RR for reference...

Jaz

If it kicks the ball up and it goes back down. It's hitting the flap at the top end of the ball trough ( right side if you are standing on the side watching it ) that should divert it to the shooter lane.

If so, bend it out a little so it sends the ball to the shooter lane.

LTG : )

This ^^^, I had the same issue back in 2014 and did exactly what Lloyd mentioned and it fixed the problem 100%. The link below walks you through the fix process for this issue.

https://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html

Gord