Thanks as always for replying so quickly.

I couldn’t find anything on the process in the manual. I’m assuming it’s these screws that are removed? Is it easy enough to remove and then put back? Not looking to create a night long project.

image (resized).jpg

Yes. Just keep a hand on it as you’re removing the last screw. Some connectors in the back as well.

Got the display safely removed. I found a black and a yellow wire, clipped pretty short, no connector. I am assuming this lights the back box and the topper (currently unlit). 4B7F5A0F-478F-418C-8D75-4804339AD9A3 (resized).jpegAny suggestions on how to get this reconnected?

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It looks like it was pulled out of the black heat shrink. If someone can confirm it goes to that strip (I’m not home right now), you would need to remove the heat shrink and solder the wires back to the copper pads.

EDIT: Are they on the same panel? If not, then I would think there should be a connector or something. You’ll need someone to confirm how it is hooked up to their game.

If the wire reaches that high, that is where it goes. Yellow and black are your 12 volts for lights.

LTG : )

Ah, right. The connector is on the board on the monitor panel. It does look like the wires were pulled free from the heat shrink. Perhaps by a prior owner not being careful when removing the monitor.

The wire is about six inches too short to reach back up to the strip. Of course there is also no connector at the end of the cut wires. Can I simply splice some wire and solder on to the light strip? Is the connection meant to be on the right side of the strip or the left?

Better yet, put a connector there to make it easier to remove in the future...

Pretty much, although ECLE and RR are very close to being even in the resale value department if upgraded with 2.0 lights. Largely comes down to personal cosmetic preference.

FYI ... We installed the 2.0 kit this past weekend but no gi lights or insert lights are working. We have power to the new boards and the pin is running the latest software and plays fine; just no lights. We retraced everything for hours, but no luck.

Today, I got this email from JJP. Hopefully, this is what the problem is ... Stay tuned.
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Sure hope so. Seemed like more going on than what you all went through.

LTG : )

Lloyd, your phone tech support was greatly appreciated. Thanks again!!

Anytime my friend. We both want you to be able to enjoy your game.

LTG : )

JJP is missing out completely on your services....

Come on JJP, get some balls...

So is the board pictured a good board or the bad one? By connector are they referring to the 4 pin connector? I just received my kit so wanted to confirm!

And this is precisely why you do not want to sit on an uninstalled 2.0 kit. If there is an issue and you discover it outside of warranty you will be on the hook. It might be something small like with mine but it could be something far more costly.

Thanks for posting, I also received the email about the board issue. I'm wondering what if any other parts are defective or were not vetted before being shipped. At this price point it's ridiculous that these issues continue to happen. There is no point in even purchasing this upgrade kit, better off with the 7.5 boards or purchasing boards from second hand sellers that do work.

This is incorrect in my humble opinion. The 2.0 kit is reliable and worth it other than the labor involved in my opinion. Most who have it would certainly agree. Not that you cannot live with the 7.5 boards; you certainly can. But the kit is very solid and basically brings the game up to the level of DI in terms of solid lighting system.

So, I'm assuming all of us who bought the kit will be receiving that email. Dang, my plans were to install over the 3 day weekend.

Is it just this latest run of 2.0 kits is my question? I have one from the last run over a year ago. I hope to never have to install it but if I need a known board swap from JJP I would definitely appreciate clarity on this. Thank you.
r/
Mike

Just a portion of this batch

Thank you for the lightning response, Sir.
Happily back to Defcon 5.
r/
Mike

I just received the email without reaching out to them. So good to see JJP recognizing the error and being proactive about it!

I am so excited when I walk up to my 2.0 game and know it will work as intended and I do not have to worry about lighting issues.

Same here! I got my email a short while ago too. Sounds like they're on top of this!

If you do it, let me give you some tips:

- Take a thorough inventory of all the parts before you begin - you don't want to start the job and discover a part or harness is missing. When doing this also check the harnesses (they have tiny numbered tags) to make sure you don't get an unexpected duplicate.

- Get yourself 2 L brackets and 2 M4 x 5mm metric machine screws. Inexplicably, these are not included in the kit and are required for mounting the new power supply inside the cabinet.

- When removing and cutting out the old serial cables for the old kit (thick black with green/red wrapped ends) be careful not to snip the cable to the crystal ball which looks very similar. Ask me how I know.

- Get yourself a drill stop which will make the operation safer than the tape the kit indicates: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L0XB8Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

- Get the 3d printed dimpler tool, it will make drilling more accurate: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1139-pinworlds/03336-woz-lighting-20-playfield-dimpler-tool

- When you install the small satellite boards, refer to the wiring diagram in the installation manual. Try to match their orientation as closely as possible as some of the harnesses are a pretty tight reach.

- The light for the ramp sign plugs into a completely different board further away from its original spot. You will need to clip some zip ties to get it to reach the new board. If you boot your game and don't have lighting on the ramp sign, you forgot to plug this one in.

- Be careful with the munchkin playfield - the rubber stoppers holding it in place are old and easily torn. Press up on the plastic rivets from below rather than pull on the plastic; it's brittle and easily broken. Ask me know I know.

If you run into questions or need assurance hit me up, I might be able to help steer you via Facetime.

Oh yeah one more thing - when you're done, test the game in all red, all blue, all green. If anything lights in an unexpected color, the R/G/B wires to that harness might be out of place, requiring swapping them in the harness plug.

Hopefully that only happened to me, but if it happens to anyone else...that's the fix.

Example: everything blue in this pic ought to be green.

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How many pieces of fish paper are supposed to be in the kit? The inventory list says 4, and that’s what I received, but it looks like the directions call for 8?

Yes, our kit was also short 4. We used one for a template and made up an additional 4.

Here's a pic before we removed the old boards and after the new boards were installed.

We haven't tightened things up by zip-tying everything yet. Waiting to make sure it's all working first.

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Where do you guys see that it’s supposed to be 8? My parts list reflects 4 ….

image (resized).jpg

The parts inventory list does say 4, which is correct for what is included, but the instructions say you need 8.
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Thank you!

Don't you get them from the led you remove ?

Got my kit and the email.

No.

Definitely need 8, you build up all those S-bracket holders with them.

Thank you very much @zaphX! I appreciate the tips. I was going to use tape, but I bought some drill stops, as I needed them anyway. Question on the Fish Paper.... What is Fish Paper, what's it's purpose, and where do I get some?
Thanks, Chris

It’s an insulating material, used to keep the light board from shorting out against the metal mounting bracket.

It looks like Amazon and Walmart both sell it. If you have any electronics store nearby they’d probably have it too.

Agree, but I figured if JJP has to send me out a new board they can throw 4 more insulators in with the board so I sent them an email asking them to do so.

Edit: Already received email back from JJP advising they would include the 4 extra insulators with my replacement board!

Thank you sir!

Tech issue: my game hasn't been run in a while. I recently turned it on and this screen greeted me. Is this the button battery reset issue? What are my steps to get back on the yellow brick road.

thanks

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Looks like it.

dang it! I changed that battery about a year ago

What size legs came on woz.28 or 31 in.
Thanks

I have 1. I'll try esc. or F2 and hope.

Mine came with 28 inch.

LTG : )

I've had nothing but excellent support from JJP. Glad they are hooking you up!

Spoke with Doris at JJP on Wednesday .. had the new board Saturday by 6pm.

Switched out the defective board this morning.

All done!!

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Hi; received the v2.0 upgrade kit like 2 years ago but never bothered installing it as my Woz SEvis just fine. Shall I worry? Will jpp contact me if needed?
Is there a way to know if my kit has a defective board?
Etienne