(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by PinMonk
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#13551 59 days ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

I’m trying to make my left Outlane not such a total drain. I can’t move the post in due to where the rail is. [quoted image][quoted image]Any ideas?

I just did this to mine. Super easy fix. Take the screw out that is holding the rail in place nearest the post. Now you can easily move the post over one spot and make that huge left drain much more reasonable. The rail will remain firmly in place against the post rubber. The rail is held by several other screws. You don’t need that one, imho. This was the simplest solution for me.

AA8927EB-B0B1-4B73-8577-D27661C4F331 (resized).jpeg

#13552 59 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

And post in wrong thread ?
LTG : )

No wonder I can’t get it to fit anywhere in my WoZ

Thanks Lloyd!!

#13553 59 days ago
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:

He’s a friend of mine. I let him know.

It also appears he has version 1.1 light boards not 1.0. There is a big difference. Per Eric M at JJP, who did the light boards and engineering on WOZ, version 1.0 was 5v and very prone to failure. Version 1.1 is 7.5v and not likely to fail, but they can (and sometimes do), and version 2.0 is the latest JJP standard. I asked Eric about the boards at Expo. I sent seller a PM. His game sure looks like a standard too?

#13554 59 days ago
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:

He said he called JJP and confirmed it was ECLE. Just an early version… I dunno. Seems really weird.

Its an early standard. They had number stickers on them for the first few.

Consider them production samples with the early 1.1 (unbuffered) or even 1.0 electronics etc.

There are no ECLEWOZ games without the correct armor and wooden apron unless the armor was damaged and replaced with stainless, which is unlikely since JJP has the replacements parts.

So, early production ECLEWOZ it is not, its merely a early standard. They even had direct print cabinets on some of them.

#13555 59 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its an early standard. They had number stickers on them for the first few.
Consider them production samples with the early 1.1 (unbuffered) or even 1.0 electronics etc.
There are no ECLEWOZ games without the correct armor and wooden apron unless the armor was damaged and replaced with stainless, which is unlikely since JJP has the replacements parts.
So, early production ECLEWOZ it is not, its merely a early standard. They even had direct print cabinets on some of them.

I hear this but how does he have a ECLE Certificate?

#13556 59 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its an early standard. They had number stickers on them for the first few.
Consider them production samples with the early 1.1 (unbuffered) or even 1.0 electronics etc.
There are no ECLEWOZ games without the correct armor and wooden apron unless the armor was damaged and replaced with stainless, which is unlikely since JJP has the replacements parts.
So, early production ECLEWOZ it is not, its merely a early standard. They even had direct print cabinets on some of them.

I’ve got one like that. Stainless armor, LE number, shaker, invisiglass, the same topper, 1.1 7.5V boards (that still work).

I don’t recall buying an LE (I selected the cheapest back when I ordered it, I think) but it seems to have some LE features (unless SE also came with shaker, invisiglass and that topper).

#13557 58 days ago
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:

He said he called JJP and confirmed it was ECLE. Just an early version… I dunno. Seems really weird.

For an ECLE, the side rails rails are wrong (no powder coat), shooter rod plate wrong, apron is wrong, topper is wrong, ball trail wireforms are wrong (not powder coated), even the sticker with the machine number is wrong. Best guess is JJP accidentally recorded it as an ECLE, but not one single thing on the machine that should indicate it is an ECLE. How on earth would JJP say this is an ECLE if they saw a photo of the machine? Or am I crazy?

#13558 58 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its an early standard. They had number stickers on them for the first few.
Consider them production samples with the early 1.1 (unbuffered) or even 1.0 electronics etc.
There are no ECLEWOZ games without the correct armor and wooden apron unless the armor was damaged and replaced with stainless, which is unlikely since JJP has the replacements parts.
So, early production ECLEWOZ it is not, its merely a early standard. They even had direct print cabinets on some of them.

pinballinreno is 100% on the money. Just noticed in the guy's own photos for the ad the machine LITERALLY says it is a standard. Printed right on sticker along with the SN. JJP must have screwed up the title paperwork.

#13559 58 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I just did this to mine. Super easy fix. Take the screw out that is holding the rail in place nearest the post. Now you can easily move the post over one spot and make that huge left drain much more reasonable. The rail will remain firmly in place against the post rubber. The rail is held by several other screws. You don’t need that one, imho. This was the simplest solution for me.

I think I’m going to cut off about an eighth of an inch off the rail. It’ll totally free up the other post slot. Has anyone else tried to do it that way (ie shaving off some of the rail)?

#13560 58 days ago

I took a set of pliers and bent the rail in slightly. You can’t even notice the change.

#13561 58 days ago
Quoted from galore2112:

I’ve got one like that. Stainless armor, LE number, shaker, invisiglass, the same topper, 1.1 7.5V boards (that still work).
I don’t recall buying an LE (I selected the cheapest back when I ordered it, I think) but it seems to have some LE features (unless SE also came with shaker, invisiglass and that topper).

Standard came with that topper, but not shaker or Invisiglass. My first pin in 2016 was WOZ standard nib. I had to pay to add the shaker and Invisiglass. If his example came with those, he might have an early, very base-level LE. Other than the apron and powdercoat, not much difference above the playfield on WOZ (except for the light boards). Until you get to YBR model, which is beautiful but they abandoned the monkey.

#13562 58 days ago

So what actually fails on the early light boards? ...I believe I have the 7.5 boards and I'm noticing that the five leds at the center of the playfield (yellow brick road) are sometimes not the correct color as the surrounding leds...Is this an indication of failure? or a bad connection somewhere

#13563 58 days ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

I think I’m going to cut off about an eighth of an inch off the rail. It’ll totally free up the other post slot. Has anyone else tried to do it that way (ie shaving off some of the rail)?

I shaved my flatrail off with a dremel and filed it off clean so it would fit under the plastic and not rub on the rubber.

So, yes

#13564 58 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

So what actually fails on the early light boards? ...I believe I have the 7.5 boards and I'm noticing that the five leds at the center of the playfield (yellow brick road) are sometimes not the correct color as the surrounding leds...Is this an indication of failure? or a bad connection somewhere

This is actually the Playfield is a different yellow - they are fine! Don't believe me I have a set to sell you for this very reason. Some will lose a color like when your in the white test they show up blue, but when they really fail nothing behind them will work you will know 100% of the time.

#13565 58 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

So what actually fails on the early light boards? ...I believe I have the 7.5 boards and I'm noticing that the five leds at the center of the playfield (yellow brick road) are sometimes not the correct color as the surrounding leds...Is this an indication of failure? or a bad connection somewhere

Go into lamp test and go through the colors.

If one of the colors is wrong, you have a bad rgb chip or diode or controller on the board.

Its a common failure. you can fix it if you can get the part (discontinued?), but you can also replace the board if you can find a used one.

Other than that, YES, the color on the board doesnt match the other LEDs (they are a little dimmer), it's normal.

#13566 58 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

So what actually fails on the early light boards? ...I believe I have the 7.5 boards and I'm noticing that the five leds at the center of the playfield (yellow brick road) are sometimes not the correct color as the surrounding leds...Is this an indication of failure? or a bad connection somewhere

When I thought I had a faulty big LED board, it turned out to be a faulty small GI board (cheap) causing downstream trouble.
There are posts on here about how to test for which board in the chain is problematic (involves bypassing a board to see if it fixes the issue).

If GI is the issue, I recently saw someone selling GI boards for like $13 each I think. I grabbed a few from a previous seller, worth having on hand for easy fixes.

#13567 58 days ago

Im looking for info on invisiglass markings/etchings that were supplied as factory glass on JJP machines back in 2013+. I was reading about it here https://www.pinballnews.com/learn/glass/index.html
Does anyone have an example they can check and post a picture of the markings as I'm trying to verify that a piece of glass
I have is or isn't Invisiglass as was reported to me.

Thanks

#13568 58 days ago
Quoted from WW2GURU:

Im looking for info on invisiglass markings/etchings that were supplied as factory glass on JJP machines back in 2013+. I was reading about it here https://www.pinballnews.com/learn/glass/index.html
Does anyone have an example they can check and post a picture of the markings as I'm trying to verify that a piece of glass I have is
or isn't Invisiglass as was reported to me.
Thanks

Jersey Jack logo etched in one of the corners for invisiglass.

#13569 58 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Jersey Jack logo etched in one of the corners for invisiglass.

And this is the case for all years even back then?

#13570 58 days ago
Quoted from WW2GURU:

Does anyone have an example they can check and post a picture of the markings

This?

01AA6CE1-5206-4927-92C6-9EE86644CAE4 (resized).jpeg
#13571 58 days ago
Quoted from WW2GURU:

And this is the case for all years even back then?

I just picked up a Woz ECLE built in June of 2014 with 145 plays. It has the jjp invisiglass etching like pictured above. I have no reason to believe it isn't the original glass from 2014.

#13572 58 days ago
Quoted from SlapDrain:

I just picked up a Woz ECLE built in June of 2014 with 145 plays. It has the jjp invisiglass etching like pictured above. I have no reason to believe it isn't the original glass from 2014.

Same here. That pic from mine is a March, 2014 manufacture date.

#13573 58 days ago
Quoted from WW2GURU:

Im looking for info on invisiglass markings/etchings that were supplied as factory glass on JJP machines back in 2013+. I was reading about it here https://www.pinballnews.com/learn/glass/index.html
Does anyone have an example they can check and post a picture of the markings as I'm trying to verify that a piece of glass I have is
or isn't Invisiglass as was reported to me.
Thanks

There are a bunch of threads on this forum about the different glasses... In most cases, you wont see a difference unless you really get into comparing side by side..

#13574 58 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

There are a bunch of threads on this forum about the different glasses... In most cases, you wont see a difference unless you really get into comparing side by side..

I think this is more along the lines of if the game WW2GURU bought was as advertised and less about the merits of invisiglass if I'm understanding correctly.

#13575 58 days ago
Quoted from SlapDrain:

I think this is more along the lines of if the game WW2GURU bought was as advertised and less about the merits of invisiglass if I'm understanding correctly.

Gotcha.. In this case, he should hope its not as PDI is "better" ha.

#13576 58 days ago
Quoted from WW2GURU:

Im looking for info on invisiglass markings/etchings that were supplied as factory glass on JJP machines back in 2013+. I was reading about it here https://www.pinballnews.com/learn/glass/index.html
Does anyone have an example they can check and post a picture of the markings as I'm trying to verify that a piece of glass I have is
or isn't Invisiglass as was reported to me.
Thanks

My RR had its Invisiglass removed and replaced with a sheet of regular glass by the original owner. I’m the third owner, the original owner apparently correctly identified the 2nd owner as not knowing the difference and he took it off the machine (either that or it busted).

I have some of the original Invisiglass, you can’t miss the tag it was larger than a quarter in the lower right hand side of the glass. They replaced it with just the words of Invisiglass really small in the same spot on bottom right. Check all the corners.

Invisiglass is not what it use to be in my opinion, the sheets they were putting on GnR did not perform as well as my other high end glass, not sure why this may be…maybe new processes.

#13577 58 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Go into lamp test and go through the colors.
If one of the colors is wrong, you have a bad rgb chip or diode or controller on the board.
Its a common failure. you can fix it if you can get the part (discontinued?), but you can also replace the board if you can find a used one.
Other than that, YES, the color on the board doesnt match the other LEDs (they are a little dimmer), it's normal.

Ok...so it seems "white" if the color that's off a bit...here's a pic...so is this slight yellowing normal then?

20220509_164650 (resized).jpg
#13578 58 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Ok...so it seems "white" if the color that's off a bit...here's a pic...so is this slight yellowing normal then?
[quoted image]

Do all the colors work in lamp test?

#13579 58 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

so is this slight yellowing normal then?

FUCK

Since your first 6 inserts are yellow and the rest are clear. YES

#13580 58 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

FUCK
Since your first 6 inserts are yellow and the rest are clear. YES

Lol...!

#13581 58 days ago

Since I don't post on jjp threads anymore, especially since today would have been my ninth anniversary with them. I broke my cardinal rule for the second time.

Unless they really bug me or they are trying to cause serious damage to their game.

#13582 58 days ago
Quoted from WW2GURU:

I'm trying to verify that a piece of glass
I have is or isn't Invisiglass as was reported to me.
Thanks

If you can see it, it isn’t invisible glass.

#13583 58 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Since I don't post on jjp threads anymore, especially since today would have been my ninth anniversary with them. I broke my cardinal rule for the second time.
Unless they really bug me or they are trying to cause serious damage to their game.

Lloyd, thank you for taking part in this thread for 9 years! You have, and will always be an asset to the community. Thank you again!
Your always welcome to visit anytime.

#13584 58 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

FUCK
Since your first 6 inserts are yellow and the rest are clear. YES

Haha! I never noticed that the actual six inserts are yellow and was wondering why the colors were off on my machine in the past but never really cared. I feel so dumb!!!

#13585 58 days ago
Quoted from galore2112:

I feel so dumb!!!

No reason to feel dumb if you learned something.

#13586 58 days ago

How do you tell which shots still need to be shot to spell rescue for the mega jackpot during rescue multiball?

#13587 56 days ago

Joined the club over the weekend. 3rd owner of a late production RR. Needs some tweeks and adjustments (like all JJP games) and a fix for the crystal ball, but liking it so far. Never actually played it in a dark room before (had always been with overhead lighting) and didn't realize it's a fairly dark game with all lamps being RGB... Or is there some white GI somewhere that might be out?

Jaz

#13588 56 days ago

Just for info.. There's a guy near Toronto selling a new JJP crated fully populated ECLE pf. It has the original boards (not 2.0). He is asking 4750 USD.
https://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/jjp-wizard-of-oz-fully-populated-pf-nib-price-reduced.11900/

#13589 54 days ago

why did they make the first 6 inserts on the YBR yellow and every single other insert clear? It never made any sense to me...

Also I and the person I bought my machine from were completely unaware that the inserts were yellow and he gave me a few $100 off because the said there were some lights which were always more yellow...

#13590 54 days ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

Also I and the person I bought my machine from were completely unaware that the inserts were yellow and he gave me a few $100 off because the said there were some lights which were always more yellow...

#13591 54 days ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

why did they make the first 6 inserts on the YBR yellow and every single other insert clear? It never made any sense to me...
Also I and the person I bought my machine from were completely unaware that the inserts were yellow and he gave me a few $100 off because the said there were some lights which were always more yellow...

Thats why I questioned it...as it changes the color at certain times...why not make them like all the others and be able to chage the color?...Don't know...but at least I know the led's are working right...

#13592 51 days ago

so while playing a game today, my leds all started flashing different colors...thought I was in some mode I'd never seen, but it continuted into attract mode and didn't reset after a reboot...in led color test, only half the reds led's were correct the rest all sorts of different colors, other colors were off as well...so where can I check for proper connections etc that could maybe be a good place to start..?

#13593 51 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

so while playing a game today, my leds all started flashing different colors...thought I was in some mode I'd never seen, but it continuted into attract mode and didn't reset after a reboot...in led color test, only half the reds led's were correct the rest all sorts of different colors, other colors were off as well...so where can I check for proper connections etc that could maybe be a good place to start..?

The following URL contains WOZ LED lighting troubleshooting steps.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/159#post-5057916

Gord

#13594 51 days ago

copy that...now their working after some wiggling of wires and such...so I'll keep an eye out for further issues....

#13595 50 days ago

Alright. I’ve addressed all my issues. The lights were a connection issue. Monkey getting stuck was on account of the back board pulling away from the rest of the playfield. But I’m still having issues getting the damn playfield back in the game. I’ve never had this type of struggle before. I’ve got a large collection and I’ve never run into anything like this. Do I need to adjust my slide rails? I feel like I’m taking crazy pills.

AFB48F73-02BE-470E-B8D8-9AEB3DE3C985 (resized).jpeg
#13596 50 days ago
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:

Alright. I’ve addressed all my issues. The lights were a connection issue. Monkey getting stuck was on account of the back board pulling away from the rest of the playfield. But I’m still having issues getting the damn playfield back in the game. I’ve never had this type of struggle before. I’ve got a large collection and I’ve never run into anything like this. Do I need to adjust my slide rails? I feel like I’m taking crazy pills.
[quoted image]

Did you make sure the shipping foam is removed from the back of the cab? I know that’s a silly question, but I left mine in for like 2 years after buying my first WOZ nib. I couldn’t figure out why it was near impossible to re-seat the playfield. If that’s not the issue, it could simply be the tight fit I also experience with my current WOZ and Wonka. Both are quite tight. I put my thumbs on the front of the apron and push the pf back until the hangers drop down into place. Both my JJPs are extremely tight. My DILE was too.

#13597 50 days ago

The old thumb push did it. Man…. Why not make the cabinet an inch deeper.

#13598 48 days ago

Yep, WOZ takes an extra push to get in, it scared the hell out of me everytime I do it

#13599 47 days ago

Anybody know what the side to side playfield angle should be for the mini-playfield? I used to get this multiball all the time on a friends YBR, but it's quite challenging on my RR, seems to drain (from the upper playfield) really easily. I believe it's flat (side to side), should it lean to the right a little bit to feed that flipper better? And if so, is there an adjustment on it (like TZ)?

Thanks!

#13600 47 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Anybody know what the side to side playfield angle should be for the mini-playfield? I used to get this multiball all the time on a friends YBR, but it's quite challenging on my RR, seems to drain (from the upper playfield) really easily. I believe it's flat (side to side), should it lean to the right a little bit to feed that flipper better? And if so, is there an adjustment on it (like TZ)?
Thanks!

0° side to side.

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