My very first pin was a WOZ in 2016. I sold mine in 2020, and have missed it since. It’s such an achievement in pinball engineering. After two years away, I’m happy to be rejoining the club tomorrow! What did I miss while I was away?

JJP created a version without the monkey and charged way more for it!! That's what happened while you were away! lol

As long as it’s yellow! Actually, the ybr edition is beautiful. I wish it included the helper monkey.

I have this problem. When I start the game, it stops and never loads. Anyone had the same and know what I need to do?

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Download the full version of the WOZ software from JJP and reinstall.

Very cool! Funny in the last week I crossed paths with two former WOZ owners on Pinside, and both expressed regret over selling their machines. It really is a beautiful work of art and engineering.

Ok Gents, joined the club unexpectedly today. machine is in great shape, however when I got it home its now stuck on a boot screen of sorts...the bottom of the screen says to press f2 or something to that effect...Where to look first here....everything at the rear of the bottom box is connected ..also which software update, I see several I was going to go with the full 7.04...thanks...seller said he never updated the machine and he purchased it new.....

Dead battery on the computer.

Run to WalMart and buy a new CR2430 (need to verify that) and put it on the motherboard where the old one is.
You'll need a keyboard plugged into the USB port to get into the BIOS to change the setting so it'll boot past whatever errors you are getting.

CR 2032, that was it...and updated to 7.04...seems to be working fine...What bulletproofing does this machine need? It has the 7.5 light boards it appears...everything else appears to be stock....

No bullet proofing but consider getting on the list for 2.0 boards as the others will fail eventually. Also, make sure you have the munchkin playfield cliffy installed. Otherwise, that area is prone to chipping.

Joined unexpectedly today? That is what I call a shockingly GREAT freakin day, congrats

I hope they release another edition of this game.

Ultra limited "Blue Gingham" edition with custom blue and white checkered armor but now missing the 27" display, monkey, castle playfield, munchkinland playfield, and a new smaller display installed instead.

Limited to 250 units

$16995 get it while they last!

Cliffy's ordered...I'll get on that list...

Craiglist ad popped up...then I was sucked in...but my girl loves the game so win win

anybody have issues with the doors not opening on the upper playfield, looks like i'll have to remove upper playfield to access mechs. doesn't look like a fun job either. just had to change out a dead power supply which i had to cut and splice some connectors then this happens next day. ugghhh.

So what the issue with the power supply boards failing? Is there a preventative solution for this? Does it affect all iterations of this machine or just certain versions? I also notice when the monkey is brining up the ball, it makes a whining noise near the top...does this need some servicing? It also seems to drop the ball half the time too....Thanks gents..

There are a few things that could cause this, there's a coil that activates to release them and one motor for each door. If neither opens I'd guess it's the coil not activating or the release mechanism isn't working properly. Taking that mini pf isn't a lot of fun but not really as bad as I thought it would be. Routing all the cables to stay out of the way when you put it back in was the biggest pain for me.

You can try lubing the monkey shaft, use silicon grease it works great.

For the monkey not holding the ball put some electric tape on the magnet under the monkey it's the common fix. Other option is your balls are magnetized, change them

If the problem is not a fuse or broken/loose wire see how it functions in test mode.
In test you should hear clicking or whining of the motors if you have power.

Solve power issues before moving forwards on this.

Removing the castle playfield is quick and easy, follow the instructions near exactly from the manual.

Most of us that have done it can remove and replace in 15 mins.

Read up on this thread about castle door not opening:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-castle-doors-not-closing-fully

Back in the club with this beauty after being 2 years away. Our very first pin back in 2016.

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Beautiful, and perfectly paired with a fine looking Wonka

Am I correct in that there is a waiting list for the 2.0 boards? I reached out to JJP with no response, so if true how does one get on that list? And any idea on production schedule? Probably been asked before, I know so sorry for that.

Very nice looking machine.

You can email Ken directly [email protected] . He has always responded to me promptly. I got on the list 9 mos ago and checked in about a month ago to confirm they were still waiting. Ken confirmed that the waitlist will be taken care of before any kits will be made available for sale on their site (assuming that there are more than enough to take care of the list) so you do want to get on that list.

You can also email the whole team at [email protected] if you are not comfortable emailing directly to a specific person.
That is our catch-all email.

Ultimately, your best option is to submit a ticket at http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Support-Form/ for the fastest response.

Which edition is this? I thought it was the "Green edition" at first but then noticed the stainless wireforms..

Bring on the Lollypop Guild Edition!!!

That seems to be the Green edition that was made for Automated services, a half way between the SE and ECLE. I like it a lot, I can't stand the apron with 30 signatures on the ECLE, although I wish I had a wood apron on my 75th

Yep, this. . It has the emerald powder coated rails and legs, shaker and Invisiglass.

I have a Green Edition but mine does not have stainless wireforms.

Would you like to trade aprons? Would love a wooden one with the signatures.

Interesting. As mentioned, I have one too and my wireforms are green powdercoated..

Thankes but i have done this several times. But after the update this text shows up.
Any other suggestion or idea??

Is the dongle missing? There needs to be a USB dongle installed on the computer. Without it the game will not run. It's a copy protection thingy.

I just put these little coolers in:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1391-ravspec/06744-extended-play-coil-coolers-jjp-wizard-of-oz

They were super easy to install, however getting to the power tap connector is a big reach behind the rear of the playfield.

Its best and easiest to run the wire first with the playfield against the backbox and then lower it to the service position to install the fans.

Otherwise its quite a reach to install the fan screws. Much easier to just install the fan under the game as there are only 2 screws.

I ended up reaching the connector with one arm behind the playfield and the other in front of it (with the playfield leaning on the backbox) to effectively be able to seperate the molex connector to install the provided tap.

The provided wires and connectors are very high quality and snap together tightly.

I routed my wire along the main harness (big black hose) easily and used about 12 zip ties to get all the wires cleanly out of the way.

The fans really work well and they are super quiet!

No flipper fade, the flipper remain very powerful during the longest multiballs and the longest games.

In my opinion, you really need these on your game, they actually work.

Back with another question. It seems that the monkey magnet wire is getting stuck between the monkey bracket and the back of the cabinet. In test with the playfield pulled out into service position I can get the monkey to move all the way up and down but with playfield in it gets stuck halfway. It also is pretty tough to get the playfield back into the cabinet after having in service position. Is it normal for things to be this tight back there?

Also anyone who has upgraded their light boards I’d love to take your old serial cables off your hands if you have them while I wait for my 2.0 boards. Guess I missed the boat on the upcoming batch so I’m stuck with 1.0 boards for a while. TIA!

Pm sent

I believe I moved it in despite that tight fit, it just compresses the rubber ring a bit iirc.

Remove the plastic next to it. There's another hole next to the one where the rail is screwed in. Move it there then the post will fit.

This

Not this

Remove the plastic, you will see that the flatrail is designed to go out more as the tab is supposed to be slotted, if not, dremel a slot into it.

The plastic wont line up as well, but its hardly noticable,

And yes the rubber gets a little compressed but it doesnt seem get cut after 1000's of plays.

Grease the monkey threaded rod as will as the witch threaded rod with silicone grease if you havent already.

A little goes a long way, it doesnt need gobs of grease falling into the cabinet.

So just curious about this woz. Looks like a standard to me but comes with ECLE certificate? Back of it says standard too. No wooden apron, green armor. Maybe seller doesn’t know?

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/135106

That's a standard. Right down to the silver armor.
No plumb bob for 11.5?

He’s a friend of mine. I let him know.

A famous dude once said..."play better". lol I feel ur pain honestly. No answer.

.

And post in wrong thread ?

LTG : )

Interesting how he has a ecle certificate

Thanks Lloyd ! I scratched my head wondering why I've never seen that thing in my game. But wrong thread did not hit my mind

He said he called JJP and confirmed it was ECLE. Just an early version… I dunno. Seems really weird.