Here you go.

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Yes

Need help finding a connector. Friend has a WOZ and apparently this got damaged. What’s the pin and connector so I can replace it for her PLEASE.

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Following.

I believe the connector style is "JST".

I have a RR, but my basement ceiling is just a little too low for me to have its topper installed. Methinks that the ECLE topper might be shorter once installed. Can someone who has it installed measure from the top of backbox to top of ECLE topper?

If it fits, I may be in the market for a ECLE topper for my RR and do the opposite topper-swap. Thx!

9 inches from the flat surface on top of machine, to the top middle of topper.

Just wanted to post pics of this mod. Looks like it came stock.. Very nice!

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Hi everyone I really want to get rid of this game but I can't because my son and daughter love it (I've always got the bloody hood up!!!)
So, can some one please help me with where the FFF I can find or buy a new Drop Target Assembly for our WOZ RR it keeps blowing F710. I've tried several things to keep it not blowing i.e. top left playfield out several times for mods and tweaks but now its time to replace The Wrinkie Drop Target Assembly just cant bloody find one.

The manual says - Item 3 Part Number 51-5021-00 ... nothing on JJP Web or anywhere else I can See!

Apparently you can't just change the coil so need the whole Assembly.

Any help appreciated.

Pretty sure you don’t need to change out the whole assembly. Have you tested the coil? It seems unlikely that the coil is the issue. Sounds like you have a short or a misadjusted switch or something. Time for some really careful visual evaluation and checks with a multimeter.

Yep, I had the same problem. The coil could not be removed separately. But JJP did have the Winkie coil assembly available when I called them. This was the fix for me when fuse 710 kept blowing.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-problem-fuse-710#post-6474707

Is the coil for the drop target really not removable? I’ve never really looked at it from that perspective.

FWIW, my WOZ was hot mess when I bought it. It took some steady work to shake out all of the issues (including installing the 2.0 lights), but since crossing the finish line on my list of inherited problems, this game has been rock solid. (Knock on wood.) I play it a lot and I think the only reason I’ve removed the glass in the past year has been to clean and wax.

The smaller "up" coil is not listed as a part, but its a standard magnet core coil used in lots of areas, like the latch to the doors and the lockdown arm actuator. Maybe its the same as those?

But it is listed as part of an assembly as was noted.

JJP might have a reference to it on their computer.

However the big "drop" coil is a standard coil

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Not really.

I printed it out on my color printer on heavy glossy legal size paper at work, then went and had it spiral bound at fedex/kinkos for $45. Maybe more these days.

The paper cost the most and it did take a bit of toner, but didnt drain the carts.

Tip: print it at work so they can write off the office supplies.

Yeah, its just long and big paper. The actual manual flips up on the long edge, but I just bound it on the right edge.

I just selected landscape, fit to page/double sided, on the printer so it would take the slightly smaller legal size.

It was confusing to me to get the "upside down" and "right side up" for odd and even pages to get it to flip up.

Im sure it could be done easily, i just didnt want to fool around with it.

At kinkos tell them to do the standard plastic clear cover and black back cover in legal size if they have it.

Nope, the mini coil is riveted on the Woz assembly.

I initially ordered the drop target assembly from The Shadow. It is the same mini coil, and it's removable from the TS assembly.

But the WOZ assembly is different and basically impossible to just swap a separate coil onto the Woz assembly.

Totally lame the way it was made for Woz.

Without looking at it myself, couldn’t you just drill out the rivets, swap the coil and bolt the coil stop back in place?

Trust me, I tried. Very difficult to drill.

I struggled to reuse the original assembly using a dremel to remove the rivets.

It was a slow train wreck before my cheap ass had to finally admit defeat and order the proper assembly.

Thank You Both for the Great Pictures and Kind Words!!!

They were originally 100$ from JJP. So someone is trying to double their money, which is about right

The problem with the fuse F710 sounds like a short. Follow the wires and check the solder joints to make sure that there aren’t any unwanted connections.

Is the coil for the drop target really not removable? I’ve never really looked at it from that perspective.

100% not removable crazy hey, now I got to try find this bloody part, I can't find it anywhere!

Thanks for your help only thing is I cant find this part (23-0003-00 23-0003 Standard Coil) anywhere doesn't even show up on JJP's site!?!

Just to circle back in this in the event others come across this in their game - nothing really worked until I used very sharp angled cutters and just snapped the nut and screw off while protecting the plastic. Worked in both with no issues. Thanks guys

The problem for me was the short occurred inside the mini coil as it heated during MTW.

It was very difficult to track down. Once I replaced the mini coil, the 710 fuse stopped blowing. I created an entire thread about it.

Of course it's still possible his problem could be caused by something else.

Recently cleaned and waxed the game and having unbelievable games. Like over 60 munchkin loops over 50 ybr's ,melted the witch today ( it's like a national holiday for me ) up to 3 diamonds. One game over 1,000,000 and several close to it. All in the last 10 to 15 plays.

Cheers

I had to replace my screws after installing the Mezel mods flame pots. They were crap.
I just painted them with an oil based sharpie marker.

Nice work, its an incredible game!

The coil reset assembly part number was given to me when I called JJP directly:

JJP Part Number 51-005020-00

Pinball life looks like it has the same part.

https://www.pinballlife.com/drop-target-knockdown-assembly-left.html

That looks exactly right.

I have the data connector to the crystal ball that got off yesterday while playing, it's the one that's glued to the board behind the ball. I put it back but I should probably glue it.

How do you take off the glue that's already on it, and is there a specific type of glue I should use after ?

Thanks

Its hot glued on. Just scrape the old glue off with a plastic razor blade and re-hot glue it.

Thanks to All in this thread that helped point me in the right direction, I ordered the part last night from Pinball Life.
Really appreciate it people I just hope it bloody works!

Hey all. Just joined the club. Bought a buggy RR edition and I’ve worked my way through all the problems but just need to replace this connection. Anyone know the right connectors and pins? Also how to you crimp a pin this small? Would love to upgrade to the 2.0 light kit but it’s out of stock. Is that temporary or permanent? Thanks in advance!

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This would be the crimping tool i would use for that:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WNZ9FW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Connector and housing i cant help. sry

The 2.0 light kit is on backorder, but JJP is working through the process of getting more. You can email [email protected] to request getting on the list (I am on it, am expecting it to be a couple of more months but that is a total guess). Congrats on the RR, what a beautiful machine! Not sure about the connector you need, but sounds like you are close to having a nice ironed out WOZ

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mod-announcement-extended-play-coil-coolers-jjp-wizard-of-oz-

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Selling a Pinstadium kit for WOZ if anyone is interested. $200 shipped, PM if interested.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinstadium-kit-for-wizard-of-oz-

Update: Sold

Hey guys - has anyone installed a noise suppressor for the static noise you can sometimes here? I’ve done this on my other jjp games. Where do you connect it though? It prob needs to connect inside the big grey box inside the machine not the head like the other jjp games. Is that right?

Yes there’s a ground loop isolator in the cabinet. I read that JJP’s wasn’t a reliable part, and I replaced mine with a $12 one from Amazon, which improved (attenuated) the loud pops during startup. Super easy to disconnect the old one and swap in new, plug and play.

Thanks!

So that ground loop is inside that big grey box right or is it outside of that in the cab?

It's outside the box and connected to the audio output.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/270?gallery&&&&galleryp=5

There’s also the static and popping/crackling issue associated with the headphone jack on JJPs. Might be worth trying disconnecting the one cable from the motherboard in the backbox as described here:

https://pinwoofer.com/blog/jersey-jack-pinball-how-to-fix-popping-audio/

Might not apply to WOZ with the PC in the lower cabinet, but certainly applies to other JJPs. Do share if the Amazon filter helps on WOZ