(knock on wood....) I was able to make my lighting issue that I posted about a week ago disappear by disconnecting and reconnecting the data and power cables between the last functioning board #26 and the first malfunctioning board W4 in the daisy chain - I have the 7.5v boards BTW. So, for now, issue resolved. Thanks again to those who provided feedback, and a simple lesson learned to pass along. I'm now freaked out enough that unless friends are over I'll be playing with the LED brightness turned down a notch lower than "Normal".

And that is why you bite the bullet and go 2.0 - no sense in owning a game worth more than many people’s cars that you are afraid to play normally or afraid that a big chunk of lights could go out every time you play it.

Yup. I’ve been in the waiting list for 7 months or so. Those 2.0s will be on the ready when light board doomsday arrives.

Holy cow! I had no idea folks had been waiting that long. Yikes….

I just wanted to give another thanks on this one. Fast shipping and the Mod looks great! I would have thought it was metal if I didnt hold it in my hand. Its very nice and goes perfectly with everything.

Thanks again!

Thank you so much! Please post a picture when you get a chance this weekend.

Sure thing!

Ditto. Super cool mod, looks like it was meant to be there!

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Great looking mod!

Thank you very much. It looks Great on a Ruby Red.
I have my Hobbit next to woz too. I would guess most dual owners do.
I didn't want this mod to big, wanted it smaller than the Hobbit sticker.

Is there a way to adjust the brightness on the GI and inserts? I can’t seem to find it in any of the service menus. Wondering if that would help my boards hold out until the 2.0’s are back in stock.

What do you have to do within the game to have the house Wall drop and show the witch's feet? I just found out about this feature and made adjustments on my game. Only had the game for a couple weeks.

Hit the ball around the house enough times to qualify the munchkin mode. Once the ball exits that playfield, it will get trapped by the magnet for a second while the feet drop and the Munchkin mode is announced.

Thank you!

There is also a timing adjustment in the menu which might have to be adjusted if you don’t see that it’s working. Also a good way to test it and see it in operation.

Hey Guys,

So I finally got to installing my Pingraffix Pinblades. They look great except for the end of them that sit back by the back panel. It is about an inch short and looks strange. Mainly on the left side as the Castle playfield blocks this side. I think its noticeable simply because there is a spotlight that shines on the Emerald City, but that lights up that back area and shows a gap of blade to no blade.

Is this normal? Other blade that I have seem to extend beyond he back wall.

Anyone with pictures to share would be helpful?

Im actually thinking this is normal after looking through other pictures. Here is an example that I found, and mine is similar. My OCD goes crazy with this gap (circled in red, back right corner).

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Another question. I need to replace the rubber that is for the OZ lanes. The manual calls for a 2" black rubber, but mine from factory is white.

Can anyone confirm what it should be?

I use the white latex one, not a Titan urethane they are too thick.

The white came that way from the factory. Later editions might have a black one.

White doesnt have the life span of the black rubber, but its more bouncy.

Since its smart to lower the kicker strength there, you can get a little more action on the white rubber.

Another anomaly is the outhole center post.

My Hobbit game came with a urethane ring there. No other urethane in the game.
It makes sense since it gets a ton of abuse.

Im on my second set of rubbers. I bought complete rubber kits from JJP when I ordered my game. this kit was amazing and very well priced at the time.
Still it was missing the rubber standoffs for the plastics. These are a must have if you make an order from them, like spare Castle motors.

Now, the rubber kits are stupidly priced at their store, and they may not be complete.

I have since, replaced all the mini post rings with urethane. The ones under the witch were breaking continuously.
Titan black mini post rubbers are excellent, though they can be a tight fit.

Good to know, thanks. Luckily up to this point, I havent had too many issues with my rings wearing... well, until now ha.

Does anyone know if I have to remove the munchkin playfield to replace that rubber that goes underneath?

Thanks.

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Thanks!

This may help.

Gord

10 Minute Top Sling Rubber Ring Replacement Instructions.pdf

I did not create the WOZ service guide shown above as I pulled it down from Pinside several years ago and don't remember who created the service guide originally and as such I am unable to provide proper attribution to the original creator of the guide.

I've tried searching can't find anything concrete.

I have a couple of pop bumpers that this part is broken. I haven't had any luck with Jersey Jack.

Wondering where I can get this part or does it cross reference with a Williams part?

Thanks in advance

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JJP has this part in stock if you need:

JJP Assembly Number 99-020121-00
Display Name/Code Pop Bumper Top Assy, Ring and Rods

Deleted bad advice.

They are the removable ring type like on Data East, not the regular williams or Stern riveted rod and ring type generally used.

You can replace broken rings from the top without disassembling the unit. I have replaced a couple, it was super easy with this setup.

The rings might be the same as the DE ones, I havent tried them.

The rods are threaded on both sides for nylock nuts or stand-offs.

Its simpler the just get a few rings, rods and stripped hex stand-offs (Woz tree supports) from JJP.

Go to 16:32 in this video you can see the nylock nuts that hold the ring on.

All the parts are listed in the manual.

But in JJP's infinite wisdom, the parts computer part numbers dont match the manual. Genuis!

They have become somewhat adept at figuring it out on their end when you call.

Thanks for the correction!

Others might have the same idea, its best to clarify things.

I did look through this topic but could not find an answer. All lights "work" in that when not playing a game every light is lit and changing colors as the game is supposed to do. However, once you start a game, the lower half of the playfield, i.e., yellow brick road and lion do not "flow". In other words, they stay on and do not change colors or rotate, flicker or whatever is best to describe it. Game plays fine, but those lights just remain solid. I was told the boards are like a daisy chain and that one of my connections is loose or bad and I will just have to jiggle and wiggle until I find it. Is this so? And if so, any thoughts on where this problem might be? I am not very tech savvy . . . obviously. Thanks for any suggestions. This forum helped me resolve a previous problem, so trying here again, as it is a great resource.

So my audio is constantly going in and out. I've changed the RCA cable bit issue seems to be with the connectors that the plug into. The connectors that are attached to the metal box that the boards are housed into. Anyone ever change these out with something better?

Constantly having to open the game up and pushing the RCA plugs back on.

I came across this WOZ audio service guide back in 2015. I am not sure if it will help or not, but here you go.

Gord

Audio_Cleaning Jacks.pdf

Thanks Gord, will give it a try!

The URL below contains LED troubleshooting tips for WOZ. Once you click on the URL below work your way down in the thread as there is a lot of good advice from knowledgeable Pinsiders.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/159#post-5057916

Gord

Thanks, will do!

Does anyone have any of these I can buy?

Hey

You don't have this on your RR ? I thought it was standard.

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Actually no, mine was sort of hiding on the bottom left of the front of the cabinet. I found it now. DOH!

They switched the location to the lower left of the cab to save money on doors...

Now if you or anyone else can find a way to make the headphone volume louder, that would be great. On the loudest setting, its just not quite loud enough for me...

Does anyone have a set of the artwork Mylar protectors? JJp doesn’t make them anymore. Not sure if anyone has a set lying around?

You could probably use a headphone amplifier, but you will need to check on the motherboard if there is a line out output next to the headphone output and plug the amplifier there.

Im using a headphone amplifier to bring out the bass and try to get better sound thru my headphones.
There are many out there but the FiiO ones are a good price and work well enough.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-A3-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00Z9BIODA

the little portable ones just plug in "in-line".

Mine works pretty good.

Mostly you just want the bass boost feature. It really makes a difference.

For a permanent solution, there are tons of EQ's/AMPs out there you can wire up, that have external power.

I just wanted one that I could move from game to game, as I have headphone jacks on all of my games.

Awesome, thank you!

so I'm about to join the club again....someone virtually slap me if you see me selling it b/c I should learn by now.

Quick question on ECLE and direct print. I believe all ECLE's were direct print right regardless of when it was built? And I'm referring to a real ECLE with the wooden apron.

All ECLEs with the wooden apron would be direct print cabinets, yes.

I've owned my RR WOZ 2019 re-release for about a year and NEVER tried headphones until tonight. WOW! What a difference! I could hear everything... even the flying moneys chattering! Amazing. If you have never tried headphones, go do it!

I'm not sure why so many people say the volume isn't loud enough. I put it as high as it goes and it was way too loud. There must be a big change in volume capabilities when JJP started using this newer headphone jack and volume control.
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