There is an adjustment for both the release duration and the hold strength if I recall correctly, I believe in the coil settings. It's in milliseconds and can change for the number of balls locked.

I'm probably the worst handyman in the universe, I had a panic attack when I cut the first cable and realized there was no way back, but I ended up doing it and actually enjoyed it.

It might not be a timing issue.

It's not an uncommon problem for more than one ball to release, and/or no balls release (ball gets stuck on release bar. )

The fix is mechanical, not in settings.

Check this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/munchkin-house-ball-search-issue#post-2943522

Yep... this is correct.

Yep... this is correct. You have to carefully bend the bar.. It will take a few tries be patient.

Ditto. It is very doable and manageable especially if divided up into small chunks.

There is a setting, and that should be tried first before one starts bending metal. My settings occasionally needed adjustment to keep the timing consistent on the arm.

What do you think is causing the problem if the setting has never been changed?

Fix the source of the problem and you won't have to periodically adjust your settings to compensate.

Some may get tired of constant adjustments. And eventually the settings may no longer have any effect.

For me, coil strength varies throughout the year depending upon energy load, such as if AC is running, etc. Every once in a while, I had to tweak the timing of the ball release to compensate. I haven’t had to do it in a while, but I haven’t been playing as much as in the past. I’m just saying, for me, I would rather just change a setting every now and then than try to bend a mech and potentially mess things up.

Ditto ! Coil strength varies throughout the year, I used to touch all my coil settings once in a while to compensate. I bought a voltage regulator (APC Line-R, 70$) and haven't had any need to touch the coil settings since then.

Thats not true. There is a setting for the timing of the balls to release. I had to do this myself when I first got the machine. The setting change fixed my problem.

I have a new Header Plaque mod for WOZ.
In my pinside store and ready to ship.
Hope you all like it.

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Neat. Nice to see new mods. I applaud the effort.

Please take some pictures from father away. I can't get a feel for what it looks like.

Thank you,
Jason

Thanks Jason.
Maybe this helps. Have to say, these damn pinball machines aren't easy to photograph.

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After the latest code update I’ve lost all end of game music. There is an adjustment for this in the game menu but adjusting it hasn’t helped at all. I contacted JJP about this and they say they are aware of the issue. Has this happened to everyone’s game ? That music was awesome it’s a real shame to lose it.

It’s so weird that I’ve got the opposite problem, it plays end of game music during EC multiball and maybe other times.

Edit: I also lack the endgame music. I thought I did because it plays when entering high score, but if no high score then it just goes silent. Weird, I have had the update (7.04) for a while but only recently noticed the music issues. Maybe just not playing as much.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jZrJk3KWQXybyLSt5

What is the latest code? I think im on 7.01? And i still have the music at the end of the game's attract mode.

Hi there. I do like this.

Can I ask what it is made of? Looks nice..

Made of tough ABS plastic. The strong plastic is needed to handle the laser engraving process.
Thanks by the way. I neglected to put that in my listing.
Here's a link with more detail.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1164-mod-magic/05828-professor-marvel-wizard-of-oz-header-mod-plaque

Thanks, just placed an order..

Thank You!! Just got your order. It's going out later today with a few others.

Awesome! And always appreciate the quick turn around....

Noticed another bug in latest code tonight (aside from music)- during a Ball multi ball that stacked with another one (EC or Rescue, can’t recall), I realized that two curses were active, both lights out and no hold flippers. The game had announced the lights out only. The flippers went back to normal once I got down to a single ball again. Shrug.

Hey guys,

I decided to give the headphones a go last night on WOZ. But I had a slight issue where I just couldnt get the volume quite loud enough. Its not horrible but not ideal for me.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to be able to make this louder?

Not true. This can be adjusted in the settings.

Here is something you don't see every day. Failed to make the Toto shot and when the flippers shut down and the ball drained, this is where the ball sat. I couldn't believe it. Went to grab the camera and heard the ball search going off firing all the coils. I figured when I got back to the game it would have fallen, but it still sat there. One little nudge and down it went. Amazing!

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Wow!

I disconnected some wires to remove the castle playfield, and for the life of me cannot figure out where this last connector is supposed to plug into. It is from the smaller opening to the castle playfield. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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Looks like end of stroke switch from castle flipper coil

That sounds right. But where does it plug into the rest of the playfield?

Most likely there

That connector is already connected if you look closely. Pink wires coming out of both sides of the connector.

The the OP, let the wire color guide you. It most likely connects to another connector with purple and/or black wires.

Yes but the EOS harness goes through that hole - most of the wires harnesses go through the bigger hole, only two or three go through the other hole I circled - what often happens is that the end coming off of the EOS switch - the pigtail - catches underneath and doesn't drop cleanly through the hole. But it should be reachable through there.

Looks like an opto board connector.

How long is the wire, the length often tells you where it goes, as its only so long...

Unless it goes the the castle playfield and mistakenly got down thru the hole.

None of our opto boards use connectors like that - they're almost all 4-pin for the optos themselves or power or longer for switch harnesses.

Did you put one of them square rubbers on the ball save post?

Plus the opto board connectors have a color dot on them...

I think it was the coil power. Found it’s mate tucked in a bundle I had zip tied when taking out the castle, and now it’s all sorted.

Thanks for the help!

So are 2.0 boards available now? Anyone have a link? Thanks

Pinball Mods white picket fence and corn field installed. Nice little touch!

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I second that motion, order placed

You would think, but no

So my WOZ RR participated in a 9 day public event late last year.....and it didn't survive well. Lesson learned. The game was filthy by the end. Finally got around to the much needed tear down and rebuild. In went cliffy's, titan rubbers and side art blades. Out came the god awful playfield protector (seriously don't bother with it on this title) and all the dirt and gunk. Both mini PF's were removed for service. Monkey mech was completely seized up (I think due to a broken microswitch) but now back up and running. Found the skill shot target soldering tabs broken underneath.

Very happy with the final result and looking forward to playing it again with the PP. Some before and after pics here.

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Those tabs are very very close to the metal rail and can get bent and broken. Consider putting some electrical tape around them as well to insulate them. I had a very unfortunate short where voltage going to a coil went into the switch matrix through those tabs. It wasn’t good. I’ve wrapped them in electrical tape ever since.

I noticed that a fuse (F7) is not lit up green like all the others (lower right corner). Manual page D-171 shows it protecting all the LED lighting, sound amp, and some other boards, yet I don't notice any problems with those elements (e.g., the LEDs are all on).

Anyone know if this is normal? Does your F7 light up?

Side note: I replaced the problematic induction coil on this board at L9 and so I'm especially alert about any other potential issues from that bad part (which burned up and was replaced in most of JJP's early shipments due to an improper spec).

fuse (resized).JPG

F7 has no led under it

For those WOZ fans who use Scorbit, we're pleased to announce that Scorbit v1.2 is here, with some major changes to challenges and playing flow.

Check out the details in the Scorbit thread here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/scorbit-official-thread/page/11#post-6788938

All very true. In my case a fairly strong hit into the lock usually with one ball locked would result in both balls being in play. I've had to make a minor software adjustment twice in 5 years and it fixed it each time.