(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

8 years ago


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#13251 5 months ago
Quoted from TrueJedi:

Ok, follow up to my post above. I was able to get the black rubber pieces pushed through with a small screw driver, but here’s my issue. The white connector on the board has broken as seen in the pics. What are my options? Can this connector be bought somewhere and soldered on as replacement? Or do I need to buy a new board? JJP tech was helping me (ie follow the daisy chain), but since I found this issue won’t respond for the last month despite 3 emails. http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/W10-.html
[quoted image][quoted image]

My guess is you can find a close enough connector even if not the same. You may have to cut the mating connector off the two wires to get one that matches and then make sure everything fits.

Other thing you could do is put the old connector back on and hot glue it to hold it in place. Of course, that doesn’t allow you to take it off again easily so use the least amount of hot glue as possible.

Others may have better solutions.

And keep trying JJP. Call them instead of email.

#13252 5 months ago
Quoted from TrueJedi:

Ok, follow up to my post above. I was able to get the black rubber pieces pushed through with a small screw driver, but here’s my issue. The white connector on the board has broken as seen in the pics. What are my options? Can this connector be bought somewhere and soldered on as replacement? Or do I need to buy a new board? JJP tech was helping me (ie follow the daisy chain), but since I found this issue won’t respond for the last month despite 3 emails. http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/W10-.html
[quoted image][quoted image]

The broken plastic will not keep the connector from functioning as long as the headers are soldered onto the pc board properly.

Its simply a locking mechanism to keep the connector attached when in use and give it a modicum of support..

A dab of hot glue or a bit of shrink tube across the plugged in connector will hold it securely for an indefinite amount of time.

#13253 5 months ago

Thanks guys I’ll do this. Saves buying a new board. And I looked at my mini playfield as mentioned above. Sure enough my HUO has those same issues.

8B9D14F7-6B10-425C-95B1-E3FA45343908 (resized).jpeg
#13254 5 months ago

I just repaired this on a WOZ UPF. I lightly sanded the worn wooden edge back smooth, sharpy'd back in the black line, and brushed some semi-gloss acrylic clear back on. Also cleared the 1/2" side grain of the panel too. Looks good as new, but it could still use the Cliffy protector to prevent the issue down the road.

#13255 5 months ago

Helping a friend with an early woz stuck ball problem. On slow rolls up left orbit the ball is getting stuck. It’s under mini pf and when I look up from Left side I can’t see ball. When I look from above right I see a rollover switch but the ball is further down out of sight. So it’s literally in a 2 inch area you can’t see from Either direction. Anyone else have this happen.

Is taking the mini pf off a pain? If it was removed I could see exactly where ball is stuck Thx!

#13256 5 months ago

Okay there is weird stuff going on with the Crystal Ball images:
-WOZ title image has snow in the image
-JJ image is crystal clear
-Skill shot image has snow in the image (attached below)
-Colored Horse is crystal clear
-Witch image is crystal clear

Sure seems to me that if some images are correct, then the "projector" should be good. If they were all dorked, I would then lean toward the projector. I have stroked the 4-pin connector behind the projector, and down on the driver board under the PF. I have stroked the SD card too, but the partial bad images remain. Is this an issue with the SD card? Could it have lost some data?

So what the scoop on this Crystal Ball issue?

pasted_image (resized).png
#13257 5 months ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Helping a friend with an early woz stuck ball problem. On slow rolls up left orbit the ball is getting stuck. It’s under mini pf and when I look up from Left side I can’t see ball. When I look from above right I see a rollover switch but the ball is further down out of sight. So it’s literally in a 2 inch area you can’t see from Either direction. Anyone else have this happen.
Is taking the mini pf off a pain? If it was removed I could see exactly where ball is stuck Thx!

Its an odd behavior.

A rubber ring gets rolled up out of its notch in the post and end up resting on the plastic.

You can reach it with fingers, push it back into its notch.

What happens is that with the rubber sitting high, a corner appears that the ball comes to rest on.

The rubber is the ring below the slingshot.

The edge is on the right side.

It took me years to figure it out lol, as its hidden from view.

I always thought it was the mylar edge, its not.

I only discovered it when i has the mini playfield out and just happened to notice it.

#13258 5 months ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

Okay there is weird stuff going on with the Crystal Ball images:
-WOZ title image has snow in the image
-JJ image is crystal clear
-Skill shot image has snow in the image (attached below)
-Colored Horse is crystal clear
-Witch image is crystal clear
Sure seems to me that if some images are correct, then the "projector" should be good. If they were all dorked, I would then lean toward the projector. I have stroked the 4-pin connector behind the projector, and down on the driver board under the PF. I have stroked the SD card too, but the partial bad images remain. Is this an issue with the SD card? Could it have lost some data?
So what the scoop on this Crystal Ball issue?

Could be the cable, could be corrupted images on the SSD.

Back up the settings and do a full install of the OS.

#13259 5 months ago

Ironically I did a full install last week when something got hosed. It had the problem before the install, and now after as well. I can do a continuity check on the cable.

How does once go about checking or replacing the images on the SD card?

#13260 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its an odd behavior.
A rubber ring gets rolled up out of its notch in the post and end up resting on the plastic.
You can reach it with fingers, push it back into its notch.
What happens is that with the rubber sitting high, a corner appears that the ball comes to rest on.
The rubber is the ring below the slingshot.
The edge is on the right side.
It took me years to figure it out lol, as its hidden from view.
I always thought it was the mylar edge, its not.
I only discovered it when i has the mini playfield out and just happened to notice it.

Don’t follow. I can’t reach it with upper pf on. It’s 4/5 inches either way and I can’t see it

#13261 5 months ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

Okay there is weird stuff going on with the Crystal Ball images:
-WOZ title image has snow in the image
-JJ image is crystal clear
-Skill shot image has snow in the image (attached below)
-Colored Horse is crystal clear
-Witch image is crystal clear
Sure seems to me that if some images are correct, then the "projector" should be good. If they were all dorked, I would then lean toward the projector. I have stroked the 4-pin connector behind the projector, and down on the driver board under the PF. I have stroked the SD card too, but the partial bad images remain. Is this an issue with the SD card? Could it have lost some data?
So what the scoop on this Crystal Ball issue?

You didn't attach the pictures.

#13262 5 months ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Don’t follow. I can’t reach it with upper pf on. It’s 4/5 inches either way and I can’t see it

Get to it from the sling area above.

Try removing the plastic. To get in there.

You don't have to remove the mini pf.

But now that i think about it, you have to remove the plastic.

#13264 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Get to it from the sling area above.
Try removing the plastic. To get in there.
You don't have to remove the mini pf.
But now that i think about it, you have to remove the plastic.

which plastic? maybe post a stock photo of the plastic area? thx for any help

#13265 5 months ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

which plastic? maybe post a stock photo of the plastic area? thx for any help

Oops! Sorry I misread your post, this fix was for the hang under the right orbit.

Ball hangs under the castle are mostly from a wire hanging down or a uncut zip tie from the last time the castle was removed.

I had it happen several times.

Even though I try to get everything tied up, gravity can cause wire bundles to drift downwards and barely scrape a ball.
It causes low inertia shots to hang up.

Its a PITA but pull it off and tighten up all the wires closer to the wood.

#13266 5 months ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

Ironically I did a full install last week when something got hosed. It had the problem before the install, and now after as well. I can do a continuity check on the cable.
How does once go about checking or replacing the images on the SD card?

Looks exactly like a failing OLED mini display board.
But might just be the cable or connector end.

#13267 5 months ago

I have the same issue with upper playfield chipping off. I did some research to find something that can be placed and found this in Amazon. It's tad wider (5/8") than edge (1/2"), so need to be trimmed or place it as is. It's only $13, made out of PVC and it's only 3 mm thick, which I like. I will try it and post it but not sure when I am going to do it, too busy right now. Color is not perfect match but I think this color might work. One good thing is this comes in 10ft so if this gets damaged, I can just take it off and put another one.

IMG_5484 (resized).jpgIMG_5485 (resized).jpg

#13268 5 months ago

Hi
Please can someone help.
The two LED green lights over the lanes at the top of the playfield won’t switch from lane to lane using the right flipper button.
Please v as m some one advise why this is???

#13269 5 months ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Hi
Please can someone help.
The two LED green lights over the lanes at the top of the playfield won’t switch from lane to lane using the right flipper button.
Please v as m some one advise why this is???

Only switches after skill shot

#13270 5 months ago

Ah right, do you mean you have to get the skill shot first?

#13271 4 months ago
Quoted from John_in_NC:

Only switches after skill shot

Normal behaviour. If you want to get the skill shot you have to get it in there and you can’t switch.

#13272 4 months ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Hi
Please can someone help.
The two LED green lights over the lanes at the top of the playfield won’t switch from lane to lane using the right flipper button.
Please v as m some one advise why this is???

As others have stated, you cant switch it manually...

#13273 4 months ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Ah right, do you mean you have to get the skill shot first?

No, you just can’t switch *during* the plunge. Afterwards, even if you missed skill shot, you can change the lane light to increase your bonus whenever the ball is back up there. “Put the dot where the ball is not”

#13274 4 months ago

Since getting our games all in our newly converted garage into a dedicated game room, I’ve spent more time with our games. Today, after several years of trying - I finally melted her. Ding dong, the witch is dead.

I’ve been so close on many, many occasions (1 or 2 shots) away; but, it always felt like luck instead of any bit of skill that got me there.

Since the new room was put into service and it required all of the games to be re-leveled (and some the steepness increased), I took this opportunity to relearn many of the games in my collection. WoZ has proven to be no different. Previously, my tactic for Battle the Wicked Witch was all about getting the balls immediately under control and then trying to be very meticulous with my shots. While I felt that my time in the battle mode was decent, a bad sling bounce or hit off of the Glinda target would be my undoing.

Since the new room move, my re-evaluation of my tactics caused me to realize that although I could potentially lengthen the elapsed time in the mode cradling up right away - I was wasting the potential of the ball saver. So, I adjusted my style to immediately take whatever I had in play and try to hit as many shots as I could.

This seemed to be making a difference as in the last several days, I have been within 2-3 shots several times. Today, I played exactly 3 games. Game one got to 2 shots away. Game two was a bust. Game three… started great. Got to the witch on my last ball and got to the last shot and proceeded to miss the shot off the right playfield and hit too late and the ball went into the forest. Needless to say, I was frustrated and decided to refocus. I took a deep breath and started to chop away again.

Still on my last ball, I got Rescue MB going (still the hardest of the 4 requirements for me to get consistently because of the loop resets of the target). With Rescue MB going, got the locks for Emerald City and then with it running, got Munchkin. Then it was just a matter of Fireball and the next thing I knew - she was lit again.

This time, I got 3 shots out of the way all before the ball saver was off. Then got things under control and hit the last requirement and then kept my cool as it took 3x of Castle locking before I could get a clean shot up the ramp. I then missed again too late on the shot. Locked up on the castle and this time, a clean ramp shot and a conscious “shoot early” mandate in my mind made all the difference.

So, this was my journey to the easy wizard mode. Now, I can aim a bit higher and shoot for the rainbow.

If anyone else is struggling out there - stay with it. It’s obtainable. Just keep plugging away.

I still need to get better with hitting the crystal ball and throne room. I also need to finally solve where I’m getting all my air balls on the ramp. Some are from Glinda; but, others are I think from the right side. I’ll need to get the phone out on high frame rate on a tripod and see if I can capture it and fix it once and for all.

What an amazing game. It’s still rewarding after all this time. There is nothing like stacking a few modes and watching the points come exponentially.

#13275 4 months ago
Quoted from jedimastermatt:

Since getting our games all in our newly converted garage into a dedicated game room, I’ve spent more time with our games. Today, after several years of trying - I finally melted her. Ding dong, the witch is dead.
I’ve been slow close on many, many occasions (1 or 2 shots) away; but, it always felt like luck instead of any for, of skill that got me there.
Since the new room was put into service and it required all of the games to be re-leveled (and some the steepness increased), I took this opportunity to relearn many of the agaves in my collection. WoZ has proven to be no different. Previously, my tactic for Battle the Wicked Witch was all about getting the balls immediately under control and then trying to be very meticulous with my shots. While I felt that my time in the battle mode was decent, a bad sling bounce or hit off of the Glinda target would be my undoing.
Since the new room move, my re-evaluation of my tactics caused me to realize that although I could potentially lengthen the elapsed time in the mode cradling up right away - I was wasting the potential of the ball saver. So, I adjusted my style to immediately take whatever I had in play and try to hit as many shots as I could.
This seemed to be making a difference as in the last several days, I have been within 2-3 shots several times. Today, I played exactly 3 games. Game one got to 2 shots away. Game two was a bust. Game three… started great. Got to the witch on my last ball and got to the last shot and proceeded to miss the shot off the right playfield and hit too late and the ball went into the forest. Needless to say, I was frustrated and decided to refocus. I took a deep breath and started to chop away again.
Still on my last ball, I got Rescue MB going (still the hardest of the 4 requirements for me to get consistently because of the loop resets of the target). With Rescue MB going, got the locks for Emerald City and then with it running, got Munchkin. Then it was just a matter of Fireball and the next thing I knew - she was lit again.
This time, I got 3 shots out of the way all before the ball saver was off. Then got things under control and hit the last requirement and then kept my cool as it took 3x of Castle locking before I could get a clean shot up the ramp. I then missed again too late on the shot. Locked up on the castle and this time, a clean ramp shot and a conscious “shoot early” mandate in my mind made all the difference.
So, this was my journey to the easy wizard mode. Now, I can aim a bit higher and shoot for the rainbow.
If anyone else is struggling out there - stay with it. It’s obtainable. Just keep plugging away.
I still need to get better with hitting the crystal ball and throne room. I also need to finally solve where I’m getting all my air balls on the ramp. Some are from Glinda; but, others are I think from the right side. I’ll need to get the phone out on high frame rate on a tripod and see if I can capture it and fix it once and for all.
What an amazing game. It’s still rewarding after all this time. There is nothing like stacking a few modes and watching the points come exponentially.

Great game and great write up!

#13276 4 months ago

For those of you still getting end of game music, what version of code are you on? Ever since I loaded my last version, the menu says it should be on, but it's not playing at the end of games. I thought this was a bug they were supposed to fix.

#13277 4 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

For those of you still getting end of game music, what version of code are you on? Ever since I loaded my last version, the menu says it should be on, but it's not playing at the end of games. I thought this was a bug they were supposed to fix.

I'm on the latest version and get the game over music appropriately.
Although, oddly, I recently noticed it ALSO playing during the game while ball was still active. I think just once, though.

#13278 4 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

For those of you still getting end of game music, what version of code are you on? Ever since I loaded my last version, the menu says it should be on, but it's not playing at the end of games. I thought this was a bug they were supposed to fix.

My game is behaving the same as yours, same code, same settings. Curious though, do you have Wi-Fi / Scorbit connectivity, I do?

#13279 4 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

My game is behaving the same as yours, same code, same settings. Curious though, do you have Wi-Fi / Scorbit connectivity, I do?

No. I haven't even configured that stuff...no interest. I'll have to reinstall and see if that fixes it.

#13280 4 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

No. I haven't even configured that stuff...no interest. I'll have to reinstall and see if that fixes it.

I did not take the latest couple of updates.
My game plays perfectly.

I couldnt care less about scorbit, wifi etc.

I put it on my hobbit and am thinking of downgrading to get rid of it...

#13281 4 months ago

Anyone getting rid of 5v boards? My W1 is out along with a couple of GIs. I’m upgrading to 2.0 as soon as they’re available but would like to keep her up and running until then. Also, wondering where to purchase data cables, if anyone can point me in the right direction. Thanks, in advance.

#13282 4 months ago

Well, now it’s not even powering on. So any ideas on where to start trouble shooting would be appreciated. And yes, it’s plugged in.

#13283 4 months ago
Quoted from chrismillsmusic:

Well, now it’s not even powering on. So any ideas on where to start trouble shooting would be appreciated. And yes, it’s plugged in.

You may need to reset your CPU. It’sa little scary, but it fixed me right up when my Wonka wouldn’t boot.

#13284 4 months ago
Quoted from chrismillsmusic:

Anyone getting rid of 5v boards? My W1 is out along with a couple of GIs. I’m upgrading to 2.0 as soon as they’re available but would like to keep her up and running until then. Also, wondering where to purchase data cables, if anyone can point me in the right direction. Thanks, in advance.

pm me i have a couple gis

15
#13285 4 months ago

Well it's been a funny past few weeks...

Lost my lovely Dad last month and haven't felt like playing much pinball since. Fancied a game of WOZ tonight and only ended up melting the witch for the first time ever!!!

Owned the game since 2013 and on the 1236th game, I did it. What a month... Love you Dad x

#13286 4 months ago
Quoted from thewool:

Well it's been a funny past few weeks...
Lost my lovely Dad last month and haven't felt like playing much pinball since. Fancied a game of WOZ tonight and only ended up melting the witch for the first time ever!!!
Owned the game since 2013 and on the 1236th game, I did it. What a month... Love you Dad x

I hope I can melt the witch before my dad passes away !

(Congratulations and sorry for your loss)

#13287 4 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

I hope I can melt the witch before my dad passes away !
(Congratulations and sorry for your loss)

You will do it mate!

#13288 4 months ago

picked up a standard editon WOZ (#644) with lots of mods (castle, witch, tornado etc.).
been wanting to have this game in my collection for years (i love Widebody pins, already having a TZ and an Indy).

i'm so happy with it, been a week and this game is so beautiful it's not even funny.

absolute masterpiece of a pinball machine.

and so... very happily joining the club now have a great weekend guys.

Paris_Pinball_Addict

#13289 4 months ago

Yellow Brick Road question. Seen multiple vids of this edition where the Winki Guard drop target stays down for easy re-shots to upper pf. Isn't the original WOZ editions make you hit the drop each time to go back up there?

#13290 4 months ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

Yellow Brick Road question. Seen multiple vids of this edition where the Winki Guard drop target stays down for easy re-shots to upper pf. Isn't the original WOZ editions make you hit the drop each time to go back up there?

Yes - 1x then 2x then 3x, rinse and repeat if memory serves.

#13291 4 months ago

Dang. I've had my RR WOZ w/7.5v boards for about 1/2 year. I went to power it up the other day, and some lights were misbehaving by very rapidly flashing white during the initial power up sequencing. I immediately powered down. Then, today, I powered up again armed with my phone and captured this shot. After ~30 seconds of misbehaving, the lights stopped malfunctioning and were functioning as normal. From what I can tell, the boards involved are (1) W10 Rainbow letters, (2) W3 Scarecrow & Lion letters, (3) W4 Throne Room & Right Inlane. Oh....and yes, I've been on the 2.0 light board waiting list ever since I got my WOZ even though I previously had no issues.

I know there are a jillion posts out there about WOZ light boards, but after sifting for a bit, I am still a little confused. Questions:

1) Is there any immediate action I should take? Based on some threads, just shutting down and replacing one light board may do the trick, but it isn't clear how these three are wired in series, which board I should replace, and how to get a 7.5v board.

2) Is there a chance that further playing without action will further damage other boards? Or should I fix before playing more?

Thanks!

WOZ light malfunction (resized).jpg
#13292 4 months ago
Quoted from Baron_VonLoppnow:

Dang. I've had my RR WOZ w/7.5v boards for about 1/2 year. I went to power it up the other day, and some lights were misbehaving by very rapidly flashing white during the initial power up sequencing. I immediately powered down. Then, today, I powered up again armed with my phone and captured this shot. After ~30 seconds of misbehaving, the lights stopped malfunctioning and were functioning as normal. From what I can tell, the boards involved are (1) W10 Rainbow letters, (2) W3 Scarecrow & Lion letters, (3) W4 Throne Room & Right Inlane. Oh....and yes, I've been on the 2.0 light board waiting list ever since I got my WOZ even though I previously had no issues.
I know there are a jillion posts out there about WOZ light boards, but after sifting for a bit, I am still a little confused. Questions:
1) Is there any immediate action I should take? Based on some threads, just shutting down and replacing one light board may do the trick, but it isn't clear how these three are wired in series, which board I should replace, and how to get a 7.5v board.
2) Is there a chance that further playing without action will further damage other boards? Or should I fix before playing more?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Start at this posting and you will get the troubleshooting steps required to fix your light board issue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/159#post-5057916

Gord

#13293 4 months ago

I'd say to enjoy the game. You're not going to hurt it by playing. When the lights finally die on you (or hopefully it was just a glitch and they never do) you can troubleshoot which board it is. I went through that with my 7.5 boards. When you figure out which board has the problem you then get the fun of finding a new board to replace or bite the bullet and get the 2.0 boards.

In our case we found the failed board and replacing it was $250 or so. Decided to go the 2.0 route. This is easily a 10-12 hour job and you're going to want someone to help you. Fortunately for me my wife is technical so we worked together on this one. Did it over the course of 3 evenings and it worked on the first try but what a job. If we did it again we could probably shave an hour or two off the project.

Best of luck!

#13294 4 months ago
Quoted from Baron_VonLoppnow:

Dang. I've had my RR WOZ w/7.5v boards for about 1/2 year. I went to power it up the other day, and some lights were misbehaving by very rapidly flashing white during the initial power up sequencing. I immediately powered down. Then, today, I powered up again armed with my phone and captured this shot. After ~30 seconds of misbehaving, the lights stopped malfunctioning and were functioning as normal. From what I can tell, the boards involved are (1) W10 Rainbow letters, (2) W3 Scarecrow & Lion letters, (3) W4 Throne Room & Right Inlane. Oh....and yes, I've been on the 2.0 light board waiting list ever since I got my WOZ even though I previously had no issues.
I know there are a jillion posts out there about WOZ light boards, but after sifting for a bit, I am still a little confused. Questions:
1) Is there any immediate action I should take? Based on some threads, just shutting down and replacing one light board may do the trick, but it isn't clear how these three are wired in series, which board I should replace, and how to get a 7.5v board.
2) Is there a chance that further playing without action will further damage other boards? Or should I fix before playing more?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from GRB1959:

Start at this posting and you will get the troubleshooting steps required to fix your light board issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/159#post-5057916
Gord

Quoted from dharv:

I'd say to enjoy the game. You're not going to hurt it by playing. When the lights finally die on you (or hopefully it was just a glitch and they never do) you can troubleshoot which board it is. I went through that with my 7.5 boards. When you figure out which board has the problem you then get the fun of finding a new board to replace or bite the bullet and get the 2.0 boards.
In our case we found the failed board and replacing it was $250 or so. Decided to go the 2.0 route. This is easily a 10-12 hour job and you're going to want someone to help you. Fortunately for me my wife is technical so we worked together on this one. Did it over the course of 3 evenings and it worked on the first try but what a job. If we did it again we could probably shave an hour or two off the project.
Best of luck!

All helpful stuff here. You might want to start by lifting the playfield and try reseating the connectors to the lightboards first, might be something as simple as a flaky connector or cable. You can reseat the small input-output connectors on the boards with the power on, do NOT try to reseat the larger square power connector with the power on, ONLY with the game off.

#13295 4 months ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

All helpful stuff here. You might want to start by lifting the playfield and try reseating the connectors to the lightboards first, might be something as simple as a flaky connector or cable. You can reseat the small input-output connectors on the boards with the power on, do NOT try to reseat the larger square power connector with the power on, ONLY with the game off.

Quoted from dharv:

I'd say to enjoy the game. You're not going to hurt it by playing. When the lights finally die on you (or hopefully it was just a glitch and they never do) you can troubleshoot which board it is. I went through that with my 7.5 boards. When you figure out which board has the problem you then get the fun of finding a new board to replace or bite the bullet and get the 2.0 boards.
In our case we found the failed board and replacing it was $250 or so. Decided to go the 2.0 route. This is easily a 10-12 hour job and you're going to want someone to help you. Fortunately for me my wife is technical so we worked together on this one. Did it over the course of 3 evenings and it worked on the first try but what a job. If we did it again we could probably shave an hour or two off the project.
Best of luck!

Quoted from GRB1959:

Start at this posting and you will get the troubleshooting steps required to fix your light board issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/159#post-5057916
Gord

Thanks all! The replies are really appreciated. Looking at the daisy chain diagram, it appears that I need to pay attention to W4 board. Work, Valentine's Day, life, etc. are getting in the way of looking into this right now. I'll reply again after I find time to look more deeply into this (hopefully this weekend).

#13296 4 months ago

The main problem with these LED boards is the EMI unprotected daisy chained design where downstream driver chips from a damaged driver can get corrupted (funky colors) or no data (static color or out).

These drivers can get fried out by voltage spikes due to induced currents in the wiring (data, supply) from coil EMI (hence the buffer workaround).

For HOU, where there aren’t that many EMI events, one could likely mitigate this by twisting the supply and data lines with the ground wires to minimize the area the magnetic fields from the EMI can work with to induce these currents that lead to these spikes. And add shielding.

A change of wiring would likely fix this a lot cheaper and with a lot less work than replacing the whole system with V2 boards.

#13297 4 months ago
Quoted from dharv:

This is easily a 10-12 hour job and you're going to want someone to help you.

Holy smokes. I’m on the wait list for the version 2.0 boards for my early run RR…but this sounds like a significant task…I’ll need to hire someone to the install for me.

#13298 4 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

Holy smokes. I’m on the wait list for the version 2.0 boards for my early run RR…but this sounds like a significant task…I’ll need to hire someone to the install for me.

It is time consuming but not difficult. Break it up into as many comfortable sessions as suits you. There’s nothing technical that is particularly challenging.

#13299 4 months ago

Trying to find the timing adjustment within the adjustments for the Muchkinland ball lock gate. I have the latest FW. Anyone know where to find this adjustment?

Thanks

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#13300 4 months ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

Trying to find the timing adjustment within the adjustments for the Muchkinland ball lock gate. I have the latest FW. Anyone know where to find this adjustment?
Thanks
[quoted image]

AFAIK there is none. If you are having issues with ball release it's that the bar is sitting too low. Search this thread for munchkin ball lock.

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