As the ball smashes the edge, the upper corner takes a beating and chips the black painted edge and a small amount of the colored artwork.

Put a little electrical tape, for a super fine line, near the area and fill it in with black paint.

A bolder line doesnt matter and you cant see it when done.

Even a 1/4" chip will fade away as part of the art.

The molotow is a perfect match and covers extremely well.

Cover it with wax during regular maintenance and the sheen will now match too.

Ahhh gotcha. I dont have the machine in front of me. Thought it was just the wooden edge..

What is it with that ramp that makes the balls go flying? Would love a fix. Seems like the right corner area. I almost wondered if putting a larger rubber on that post there would help?

Flipper power too high.

Balls go airborne off the Glinda target when the target is slanted back from endless beating.

I have replaced mine twice.

Some airballs will end up on the Munchkin playfield! There should be something in the code when this happens, like "Dirty Pool" on AFM.

I dont think mine come from the Glinda target. And Ive never had them go to the Munchkin PF! WOW hahah.

Yes the mylar works, have a friend that owned an ECLE for years and all they ever had on there were two strips of mylar, 0 damage in thousands of plays.

Here's a precautionary picture of what happens when not protected.

Here's a precautionary picture of what happens when it's unprotected for too long.

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Yep, paint it black, wax over it.

In the end it will look like a more rustic brick road, but not bad at all.

Order a new blank for when you have it out next.

Cliffys protector for the edge is great and looks stock once installed.

I vote cliffy - makes it bullet proof. When installing it - You must drill the pilot holes into the bottom of the munchkin playfield to install it. be sure to tape off or break the drill bit so it’s short enough that you do not go through the playfiled to the top side.

Otherwise - it took my wife and I about an hr to install / put back together… it’s a lot easier with a second pair of hands.

Yep, it's not getting any worse since I installed it, the ball can't hit/ rollover the damaged area.

I still have some trauma from trying to take off that playfield and put it back on again, I hope I never have to do that again !

It’s easier the second time.

I was able to find one of these mods. Trying to install it and have a question. When you drill the 5/16 inch hole in the bottom of the trees, the rubber is so pliable it pretty much closes most of the way back up. For anyone that has installed this, how do you get an actually 5/16th hole drilled?

Thanks

This is only how large of a hole the 5/16 drill bit made.

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Ruby Red WOZ MOD walk through.

YOUTUBE VIDEO

Located in Cincinnati, OH

Wow! I had no idea it could get that bad from banging the side of that edge.

Thanks!

Thats why I vote for the Modfather mod that takes a minute to install.

Does anyone have any castle walls they can spare? If someone upgraded and still have the original please hit me up. Interested in the upgraded walls as well.

Is there an easy way to get these black rubber pieces separated from the plastics and light boards? If the rubber piece breaks is the only option to buy from JJP?

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You should just be able to pinch them and push through.

I push them thru by squeezing with smooth needle nose and wiggling.

Replacements are only from JJP.

The hard part is putting them back in. Use a little playfield wax and twist.

I have had good results using smooth needle nose and a blunt bamboo skewer to ease in the edges.

More and more Im using bamboo skewers and the generic chopsticks as pinball tools.

Good tip. Thanks.

I use needle nose pliers and pull the tip of the rubber. That usually thins it out to pull the plastic out of it. If that makes sense.

I use the needle nose pliers again in reverse to what I posted above.

What does the Cliffy look like? I put mylar on the edge of my upper playfield probably within the first week of owning it in 2013 and totally forgot about it. Now that I see these conversations, so glad I did!

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It’s a thick stainless band covering the edge of the exposed upper playfield. Easy nuff to visit passion for pinball to see it. http://www.passionforpinball.com/WOZ/adam-edge3.jpg

Just some thought about using mylar, in this case the ball is hitting the side of the upper pf. by hitting the side it's, basically, hitting the side of the clear causing the clear to lift and ultimately lift or crack. I would think, and this is just my opinion, the mylar being a soft material wouldn't fully protect the area. The Cliffy is made of a solid material thus it doesn't allow the ball to repeatedly hit the clear.

Again, this is just my thoughts and by no means do I have anything to back it up.

I thought the same thing but I know someone who had a pre-order original ECLE for years and put thousands of plays on it with no damage to that area and it never had anything but mylar on it. The factory should have at least installed mylar there but we know that they had some unrealistic expectation that the playfields didn't even need mylar around the pops and slings and that didn't turn out so well. They should have learned the same lesson about that mini playfield.

You would think, but Mylar has worked for me pretty well. Put some on very early on and it seems to do the job. Although I’m sure part of that is huo with low plays. TBH most huo games don’t need protectors installed I’ve found. Maybe I take it easy on my games. Had a protector on my X-men that actually impacted ball movement. Eventually had to remove it.

I think that depends on which protectors you're referring to. Full playfield protectors suck and I would never put them on my games but scoop, ramp, plastics, and other protectors like the one for the mini playfield are absolutely going on my HUO games as wear can happen even with just a few hundred plays. I do play mine more than that though.

I would think that also but others apparently are having good luck with the mylar..

I've had great luck with mylar. I think it allows a bit of flex in the wood which you really need for tough shots, like the SIM card shot in Dialed In. Sometimes the Cliffy's are great - I've bought many. But if you CAN get away with mylar, that's even better.

To reinstall I just put the nub in the hole and then run my thumb over the nub. The friction from my thumb is sufficient to grab the nub and pull it into place.

I chose this option when protecting the mini playfield edge. Frost king at about 3 dollars from home depot. Color matched ok for me and was simple to install. I have a piece on the other playfield as well.
It won't be everyone's favorite but those on a budget or not comfortable removing parts and want a solution until you want to upgrade (or not in my case) this is 100% protection.
r/
Mike

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Very functional, but I think it lacks artistry.

WOZ. I have not tried troubleshooting this yet, but looking for a heads up:

Last couple of games, the flying monkey did not drop the ball into the upper playfield. It only did so after I pressed both flippers. I have that set to kill the pops, so it may kill the coil power, too? At first I thought magnetized pinball, but twice it dropped with the two flipper buttons pressed.
I fear that the driver transistor might be shorted.

I am not sure how to test that. I was hoping that I could just move the monkey down in the monkey test, then place a ball under the magnet to see. But I am not sure the power would be on to the magnet.

The monkey magnet is +70 V power @ 107-5 coil drive 29. That looks like Q334, IRL540 on the I/O board. If that is shorted, it does not blow the fuse F707? Could that be right?

Magnetized ball would be my first guess. You can try the old fix of putting a piece of electrical tape across the bottom of the monkey magnet and see if that stops it from happening. If the transistor were dead shorted on the magnet would be locked on all the time as long as the coil had power getting there.

Right. I figured it might be locked on the entire time. But I also figured that would cause a problem, like the fuse blowing (hopefully) or the coil frying.

I guess just pressing both buttons might have knocked the ball out. I have a degaussing rod someplace.

What was the issue with the Monkey magnet sensor? And flipping the board upside down where? And fixes what?

I appreciate the patience.

OK, I see this.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/221#post-5812240

Magnetized balls. They don’t all magnetize evenly. Some will stick to the monkey and some will not. The vibration from pressing the flippers is enough to free the ball. Mine does it too. Annoying but not a real problem.

And another PTSD moment, putting back the rainbow plastic with these black things. I broke half a dozen on the way, luckily JJP sent me a boat load of them.

I used similar weather stripping but only put it on the first couple of inches to protect the edge that gets hit. Can barely see it from the players perspective. I like the look of the natural wood edge.

I have a new side decal to put on the head. Any guggestions to remove the old decal without damaging the painted surface?

Hot air gun or even a hair dryer will work. Warm it as you go and gently/slowly start pulling it off. If it starts to rip or bind or separate as I'm doing this I'll go to a different spot and eventually attack the separated portion from a different angle.
Patience and speed of removal is key in my experience.
r/
Mike

Ok, follow up to my post above. I was able to get the black rubber pieces pushed through with a small screw driver, but here’s my issue. The white connector on the board has broken as seen in the pics. What are my options? Can this connector be bought somewhere and soldered on as replacement? Or do I need to buy a new board? JJP tech was helping me (ie follow the daisy chain), but since I found this issue won’t respond for the last month despite 3 emails. http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/W10-.html

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