(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

8 years ago


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#13151 7 months ago
Quoted from RTS:

Yep. And for me, the reliability of 2.0 outweighs the dimness.
It's great to have a stockpile of old boards because they have proven to eventually fail. That gets old.
It's better to have 2.0 because you don't have to fuck with them failing anymore. Also better for retaining value.

I didn't notice much a dimness drop with the lights on 2.0... just set the settings to high

#13152 6 months ago

Please let me know if you have a set of rad cals that you could be convinced to sell.

Thank you.

#13153 6 months ago

How fast does everyone's monkey fly? Mine takes 2.1 sec to go from castle to bottom.

I am trying figure out if I should tweak/lube it.

Thanks!

#13154 6 months ago

I usually do it every time I clean / wax game. I wipe the old stuff off then just dab some white lithium grease on the threads AND the non-threaded shaft. Run the monkey test a few times in diagnostics and done. Don’t even have to disassemble anything, you can reach it with playfiled 1/4 way pulled out.

#13155 6 months ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

How fast does everyone's monkey fly? Mine takes 2.1 sec to go from castle to bottom.
I am trying figure out if I should tweak/lube it.
Thanks!

I switched to clear silicone grease on the threaded rods for the monkey and witch.

the while lithium dries out whereas the silicone does not.

#13156 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I switched to clear silicone grease on the threaded rods for the monkey and witch.
the while lithium dries out whereas the silicone does not.

Any specific brand?

#13158 6 months ago

Must be some high end stuff. I can't find it at a normal store or on Amazon. I searched for "Sta-lube clear silicone grease".

#13159 6 months ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Must be some high end stuff. I can't find it at a normal store or on Amazon. I searched for "Sta-lube clear silicone grease".

Sorry, Super Lube or Tri-flow:

amazon.com link »

amazon.com link »

Home depot sells it.

Any brand will work, clear, thanslucent etc. It should just be pure silicone grease.

I just got tired of chipping off dried up lithium chunks.

#13160 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sorry, Super Lube or Tri-flow:
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
Home depot sells it.
Any brand will work, clear, thanslucent etc. It should just be pure silicone grease.
I just got tired of chipping off dried up lithium chunks.

Thanks for the links!

#13161 6 months ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Must be some high end stuff. I can't find it at a normal store or on Amazon. I searched for "Sta-lube clear silicone grease".

I use Super Lube. The Lithium Grease always gunked up. Super Lube has been excellent!

#13162 6 months ago

Hi folks,

Just joined the club, or am trying to anyway.

Recently picked up an SE and had it shipped. It arrived in great condition but I had to remove the head to get it in the house. I foolishly did not test the game in the garage before I moved it.

Everything powers up ok, but the display is blank and I can’t tell if it’s even powering on. Any way to tell if this is a power issue or an issue with the VGA input. Everything seems seated ok, so I’m just looking for ideas. Will be able to test the VGA output with a separate monitor tomorrow, but if anyone has any ideas in the meantime, I’m all ears.

Thanks, Chris

#13163 6 months ago

Just added the external light system from AUKraut to my RR. Solid construction, easy to install and move from game to game. This system adds all the extra light my 'dim' 2.0 WOZ boards need. These lights are great. Thanks to d0n for the referral.
Normal Lighting
External Lights Only
Fully Lit

#13164 6 months ago

Hello everyone.

Any ideas on what is the best additional lighting to put in to a WOZ? Is it pinstadium and if so which one?

Also, does WOZ fit mirror blades at all or is there some other side art or is it like GnR and doesn’t really fit any side art?

Thanks!
0C7E18DE-16F3-4C2D-ABBF-5C99970E3E9D (resized).jpeg

#13165 6 months ago
Quoted from chrismillsmusic:

Hi folks,
Just joined the club, or am trying to anyway.
Recently picked up an SE and had it shipped. It arrived in great condition but I had to remove the head to get it in the house. I foolishly did not test the game in the garage before I moved it.
Everything powers up ok, but the display is blank and I can’t tell if it’s even powering on. Any way to tell if this is a power issue or an issue with the VGA input. Everything seems seated ok, so I’m just looking for ideas. Will be able to test the VGA output with a separate monitor tomorrow, but if anyone has any ideas in the meantime, I’m all ears.
Thanks, Chris

Are your playfield lights on? Does the fan start on the cpu? If not you may have to jumpstart the game.

Good reference regardless as I’ve had to use this method in both WOZ and Wonka

#13166 6 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Just added the external light system from AUKraut to my RR. Solid construction, easy to install and move from game to game. This system adds all the extra light my 'dim' 2.0 WOZ boards need. These lights are great. Thanks to d0n for the referral.

I don’t see that in his pinside store. How do they compare to Pinstadiums?

#13167 6 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

Hello everyone.
Any ideas on what is the best additional lighting to put in to a WOZ? Is it pinstadium and if so which one?
Also, does WOZ fit mirror blades at all or is there some other side art or is it like GnR and doesn’t really fit any side art?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Pin graphics has art blades.

#13168 6 months ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

Pin graphics has art blades.

Do they fit okay? GnR can’t really fit mirrors or art blades.

Any thoughts on additional lighting options? My RR looks awfully dim in its new location. I’m thinking Pinstadiums but if AUkrat’s product is better for WOZ for any reason I’m down with those also, whatever will toss good light for a good price on the playfields.

#13169 6 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

Do they fit okay? GnR can’t really fit mirrors or art blades.
Any thoughts on additional lighting options? My RR looks awfully dim in its new location. I’m thinking Pinstadiums but if AUkrat’s product is better for WOZ for any reason I’m down with those also, whatever will toss good light for a good price on the playfields.

I have the yellow brick road on mine, fit good. I have mirror on all my other games. WOZ does not have bright GI’s, I didn’t think they would look good.

#13170 6 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

I don’t see that in his pinside store. How do they compare to Pinstadiums?

He sells on eBay:
ebay.com link: itm
but I recommend a PM via Pinside.

I have had a set of Pinstadiums(PS) and a set of Pinball LED Lighting Rails (PLLR) for my RRWOZ. My preference is for PLLR.
While both PS and PLLR do a great job adding extra light they are really different approaches.

Here are a few points of comparison based on my experience:

PLLR:
-One size fits all.
-Single warm white color.
-No game interaction.
PS:
-Different options and configurations
-Many color options and configurations.
-Interacts with general illumination (flashes with GI etc...)

PLLR:
-Magnetic mount to rails. No machine modification required.
-Very easy to move from one game to another(less than a minute.)
-Must be removed to raise playfield.
PS:
Two types:
-Magnetic tape required to be installed on cabinet (light bars must be removed to raise playfied.)
-Alternately there is a riser system that attaches to the playfield but I have zero experience with this approach (raises with playfield.)
In either case moving to a new machine is a lengthy process and all PS will not necessarily work with all pinball machines.
Wires tend to be affixed and routed via the backboard portion of the playfield.

PLLR:
-Powered by plugging into a powerstrip or wall plug. You won't find a good way to power these from inside the pinball machine.
-Does not turn on/off with pinball machine.
-Zero interconnect with pinball electronics.
-Mobile app to turn on and off.
PS:
-Powered by pinball machine.
-Turns on/off with pinball machine.
-Interconnects with pinball electronics.
-Mobile app to configure preferences.

PLLR are about half the cost of the basic PS package.

Both PS and PLLR when properly installed do not interfere with game play.
You will appreciate the enhanced illumination but when you are playing you won't notice the physical light hardware.

#13171 6 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Are your playfield lights on? Does the fan start on the cpu? If not you may have to jumpstart the game.
Good reference regardless as I’ve had to use this method in both WOZ and Wonka

Thanks! We are up and running now. A wire had pulled out from one of its connectors. It was hidden under some other wires in the same bundle.

But now that it’s revealed itself, I’ve been able to get it reinserted and we’re back in business.

#13172 6 months ago

What is the general consensus on a sub woofer for WOZ? If favorable, which subwoofer is recommended? Is that cable plug in the back RCA? Thanks.

#13173 6 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

What is the general consensus on a sub woofer for WOZ? If favorable, which subwoofer is recommended? Is that cable plug in the back RCA? Thanks.

This is a pinside favorite it seems. I wouldnt ever use this in my Home Theater, but for pinball, its fine. amazon.com link »

Not sure about RCA, have only hooked them up via speaker wire to the cabinet speaker.

#13174 6 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Not sure about RCA, have only hooked them up via speaker wire to the cabinet speaker.

Thank you! Yea, there is a speaker intake Jack in the back of the machine. It looks like it is for RCA but I’m not certain. That Polk does have the option for RCA at Amazon and that price point is pretty nice.

#13175 6 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Just added the external light system from AUKraut to my RR. Solid construction, easy to install and move from game to game. This system adds all the extra light my 'dim' 2.0 WOZ boards need. These lights are great. Thanks to d0n for the referral.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Those leds do make a HUGE difference. It's odd that WOZ has so few Gi lights and is so dark. Such a beautiful game that's not being shown off due to poor lighting.

#13176 6 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

I don’t see that in his pinside store. How do they compare to Pinstadiums?

I have neo fusions on my Frankenstein and 2 sets of the external LED's from AUKraut. One set on WOZ and one set on TZ.

The external LEDs are only "white gi" lights. They are not RGB and do not interact with the game in anyway. They don't even plug into the game. They plug into a wall socket and will need to be turned on/off manually. The wires are long enough that you can move the 2 light strips to the game on the left OR the game on the right without reconfiguring the wiring. You can swap these LED light strips between 3, side by side games in 30 seconds - 1 minute. You can't do that with pinstadiums.

They cost around $150 a set. My neo fusions were around $600 as I remember.

If you just want to brighten up a dark game and don't need extra flashers or RGB and want the ability to move the lights quickly from game to game, the external strips are the way to go. If you want to bling out a specific game with all the bells and whistles and don't care about easily moving the led strips from one game to another AND you have lots of money... pinstadiums are the way to go. They BOTH have their place in the pinball hobby.

#13177 6 months ago
Quoted from d0n:

My neo fusions were around $600 as I remember.

I went ahead and ordered the Neo Pinstadiums today. I found a 10% off promotional coupon and got them for $328 shipped. I know those are not as premium as the neo fusions but I couldn’t really figure out what all the differences were. That price difference is staggering so I’m sure they are significant differences.

I also ordered some pingraphix art blades.

Last thing I need now is the subwoofer once I figure out the rca Jack in the back. My questions are is it just a plug and play with the rca connection? Does this game really sound that different with sub?

#13178 6 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

I went ahead and ordered the Neo Pinstadiums today. I found a 10% off promotional coupon and got them for $328 shipped. I know those are not as premium as the neo fusions but I couldn’t really figure out what all the differences were.
I also ordered some pingraphix art blades.
Last thing I need now is the subwoofer once I figure out the rca Jack in the back. My questions are is it just a plug and play with the rca connection? Does this game really sound that different with sub?

Yes it sounds that different. No it’s not plug and play with that output in the back. IIRC it’s a stereo output for an external sound amp (1/8” stereo connector). Not 100% sure and I can’t get behind my game to check. So you would need a 1/8” to RCA cable.

#13179 6 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Yes it sounds that different. No it’s not plug and play with that output in the back. IIRC it’s a stereo output for an external sound amp (1/8” stereo connector). Not 100% sure and I can’t get behind my game to check. So you would need a 1/8” to RCA cable.

Roger that. So what I need is this connector combined with Polk sub woofer: amazon.com link »

Is that correct? Thanks again!

#13180 6 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

Roger that. So what I need is this connector combined with Polk sub woofer: amazon.com link »
Is that correct? Thanks again!

That's what I required on my ECLE yes. My situation was a bit more complicated because I use the Pinnovators sub mix box. The output level of that connector is different than the other games where you connect direct to the cab speaker. This caused me volume issues (too low on WOZ).

This isn't a concern for you since you are connecting direct to the sub. Makes a nice difference in sound.

#13181 6 months ago

Anyone have any old lighting 1.0 LED board cables they can part with? Please PM me.

#13182 6 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

I went ahead and ordered the Neo Pinstadiums today. I found a 10% off promotional coupon and got them for $328 shipped. I know those are not as premium as the neo fusions but I couldn’t really figure out what all the differences were. That price difference is staggering so I’m sure they are significant differences.

When I purchased mine (year ago) Scott (PinStadium)had advised me for WoZ to go with the Neo and not the Neo Fusion. I forget the differences between the two but apparently WoZ being an older machine you didn't get to use the full potential of the Fusions.

Quoted from TigerLaw:

Roger that. So what I need is this connector combined with Polk sub woofer: amazon.com link »
Is that correct? Thanks again!

or just buy the Pinovators kit https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/ If I remember correctly you need:
1 – PINsmx $65
1 - PINsub Multi-System (WoZ ECLE) $35

#13183 6 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

Thank you! Yea, there is a speaker intake Jack in the back of the machine. It looks like it is for RCA but I’m not certain. That Polk does have the option for RCA at Amazon and that price point is pretty nice.

I have two of them, they get the job done for sure...

#13184 6 months ago

Joined the WOZ club this weekend by picking up an ECLE (#19). Is a beautiful mint-condition game, and I plan keeping it in that shape as much as possible while playing the heck out of it I have been reading this forum for a LONG time and thank everyone for all of the tips, hints, things to watch out for, etc. Only issue I had with the game was the Monkey magnet sensor. After several hours (really) of messing with it and trying a gazillion locations and orientations for the sensor, I came up with my own solution of adding thin felt sheets between the sensor and the wood playfield backing to create more distance of the sensor from the magnet, and finally I have it completely dialed in and working perfectly. It is truly a breathtaking game and is a bucket-list game for me. Will be contacting JJP to place my 2.0 light board order soon (but no issues with the 5v original boards, so at least I'm able to really enjoy it from day one).

IMG_6318 (resized).JPG
#13185 6 months ago
Quoted from naf_llabnip:

Joined the WOZ club this weekend by picking up an ECLE (#19). Is a beautiful mint-condition game, and I plan keeping it in that shape as much as possible while playing the heck out of it I have been reading this forum for a LONG time and thank everyone for all of the tips, hints, things to watch out for, etc. Only issue I had with the game was the Monkey magnet sensor. After several hours (really) of messing with it and trying a gazillion locations and orientations for the sensor, I came up with my own solution of adding thin felt sheets between the sensor and the wood playfield backing to create more distance of the sensor from the magnet, and finally I have it completely dialed in and working perfectly. It is truly a breathtaking game and is a bucket-list game for me. Will be contacting JJP to place my 2.0 light board order soon (but no issues with the 5v original boards, so at least I'm able to really enjoy it from day one).
[quoted image]

A lot of us just flipped the monkey ball sensor board over, upside down, and it fixed it.

#13186 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A lot of us just flipped the monkey ball sensor board over, upside down, and it fixed it.

Yes I saw that referenced a number of times and that was one of the first things I tried; mine just absolutely would not register at all flipped over in any orientation (and I tried it everywhere on the backside of that board, based on the number of drilled holes I could see a previous owner also had experimented quite a bit with the location). Makes no sense I know; it was if that green plastic was a lead shield! Perhaps my sensor is wonky, the balls are magnetized causing things to be wonky, or who knows

#13187 6 months ago
Quoted from naf_llabnip:

Joined the WOZ club this weekend by picking up an ECLE (#19). Is a beautiful mint-condition game, and I plan keeping it in that shape as much as possible while playing the heck out of it I have been reading this forum for a LONG time and thank everyone for all of the tips, hints, things to watch out for, etc. Only issue I had with the game was the Monkey magnet sensor. After several hours (really) of messing with it and trying a gazillion locations and orientations for the sensor, I came up with my own solution of adding thin felt sheets between the sensor and the wood playfield backing to create more distance of the sensor from the magnet, and finally I have it completely dialed in and working perfectly. It is truly a breathtaking game and is a bucket-list game for me. Will be contacting JJP to place my 2.0 light board order soon (but no issues with the 5v original boards, so at least I'm able to really enjoy it from day one).
[quoted image]

Beautiful! I hope the edge of that Munchkin playfield has some mylar or something else I can't see on it for protection, if not do that immediately, even before playing it if possible unless it's already damaged. Welcome to the club!

#13188 6 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Beautiful! I hope the edge of that Munchkin playfield has some mylar or something else I can't see on it for protection, if not do that immediately, even before playing it if possible unless it's already damaged. Welcome to the club!

Thank you! Oh yes great suggestion, already have the protector ordered; that was my first order the same night I bought the machine. Somehow this machine managed to survive with zero issues in that area without the protector (a minor miracle, although it clearly has not been played much). Aside from testing and adjusting some things, I'm waiting on that protector to arrive before I really start seriously playing it. At this point I'm just blown away with the beauty of the machine and can look at it and enjoy the light show (which on another topic, just contacted JJP support to get the 2.0 light board ordering process going hopefully; original boards working perfectly though).

#13189 6 months ago
Quoted from naf_llabnip:

Thank you! Oh yes great suggestion, already have the protector ordered; that was my first order the same night I bought the machine. Somehow this machine managed to survive with zero issues in that area without the protector (a minor miracle, although it clearly has not been played much). Aside from testing and adjusting some things, I'm waiting on that protector to arrive before I really start seriously playing it. At this point I'm just blown away with the beauty of the machine and can look at it and enjoy the light show (which on another topic, just contacted JJP support to get the 2.0 light board ordering process going hopefully; original boards working perfectly though).

If you are going to cover up any damage anyways, play it? haha

#13190 6 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

If you are going to cover up any damage anyways, play it? haha

LOL you got a point ... I caved in and played a couple of games tonight. What a spectacular game, wow!

#13191 6 months ago

What do you use to protect the edge of the Munchkin playfield? The edge protector from the Cliffy WOZ protector set? Or is there something else? Mine already has a small amount of damage and I want to order something to protect from further damage ASAP.

#13192 6 months ago
Quoted from naf_llabnip:

LOL you got a point ... I caved in and played a couple of games tonight. What a spectacular game, wow!

The game is a work of art! Its great. Sometimes I take a break from it for a while and then say, ehhh im not into it really right now.. Then i give it a go and the addiction is immediately back!

#13193 6 months ago
Quoted from Baron_VonLoppnow:

What do you use to protect the edge of the Munchkin playfield? The edge protector from the Cliffy WOZ protector set? Or is there something else? Mine already has a small amount of damage and I want to order something to protect from further damage ASAP.

I use this. Much easier to install.

https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-munchkinland-chrome-edge-protector

#13194 6 months ago

Did you have to trim that down, vertically? I think that's the one I purchased, but when I dryfit it, it appeared to be too tall so I haven't yet installed. Or did you install with the excess overhang?

#13195 6 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

Did you have to trim that down, vertically? I think that's the one I purchased, but when I dryfit it, it appeared to be too tall so I haven't yet installed. Or did you install with the excess overhang?

Nope, i didnt have to trim it that way at all. I had to trim the length only to shorten it by the shooter lane.

It might be taller than the edge, but i believe you can split the difference. I can send a pic of mine if interested. Once its on, you dont notice anything looking strange. At least not to me and I have quite the OCD with things..

#13196 6 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

Did you have to trim that down, vertically? I think that's the one I purchased, but when I dryfit it, it appeared to be too tall so I haven't yet installed. Or did you install with the excess overhang?

Quoted from Rager170:

Nope, i didnt have to trim it that way at all. I had to trim the length only to shorten it by the shooter lane.
It might be taller than the edge, but i believe you can split the difference. I can send a pic of mine if interested. Once its on, you dont notice anything looking strange. At least not to me and I have quite the OCD with things..

I've had this on my machine for 3 years now. I too had to shorten it by the shooter lane some when I got it, and besides running the palm of my hand along it when cleaning the playfield to ensure the adhesive is still good (just for my own peace of mind) its been trouble free.

#13197 6 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

If you are going to cover up any damage anyways, play it? haha

The protector does not cover the damage that occurs which is chipping of the clear / art work from the edge. Mine now has the Cliffy but the damage was done and you can clearly see the chips / missing pieces when you look at the Munchkin PF. If you have some mylar you can apply a strip of that around the edge until you get the Cliffy or Modfather (I prefer the metal Cliffy personally) installed.

#13198 6 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

The protector does not cover the damage that occurs which is chipping of the clear / art work from the edge. Mine now has the Cliffy but the damage was done and you can clearly see the chips / missing pieces when you look at the Munchkin PF. If you have some mylar you can apply a strip of that around the edge until you get the Cliffy or Modfather (I prefer the metal Cliffy personally) installed.

Interesting.. Would Mylar actually prevent chipping?

And while I agree, if you were to look at both protectors side by side, the cliffy is a bit of a cleaner look. But, I have no interest in taking off that Munchkin playfield and all that just to install a protector. The Modfather once installed, doesnt bother me at all and took all of 2 minutes. At first I though it might but doesnt. I think the picture on the Modfather website doesnt really do it justice.

#13199 6 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

The protector does not cover the damage that occurs which is chipping of the clear / art work from the edge. Mine now has the Cliffy but the damage was done and you can clearly see the chips / missing pieces when you look at the Munchkin PF. If you have some mylar you can apply a strip of that around the edge until you get the Cliffy or Modfather (I prefer the metal Cliffy personally) installed.

Also, not to sound rude, but what artwork is there at that edge? I thought it was just a wooden edge and above it is the "Rainbow" plastic..

#13200 6 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

The protector does not cover the damage that occurs which is chipping of the clear / art work from the edge. Mine now has the Cliffy but the damage was done and you can clearly see the chips / missing pieces when you look at the Munchkin PF. If you have some mylar you can apply a strip of that around the edge until you get the Cliffy or Modfather (I prefer the metal Cliffy personally) installed.

Cover the chipped area with a fine black paint marker.

It looks factory, no one will see it except you...

amazon.com link »

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