Yes. The ratings on that part changed unbeknownst to JJP. And burned ones started turning up. It isn't in too many games.

Contact Nate at JJP to see about getting a new board. That will fix your game right up.

LTG : )

Question on 2.0 lighting kit availability… Are these ever going to be available again? My ECLE is still doing fine but I was wanting to go ahead and take the plunge. I requested through the JJ store to be notified when available a year ago and I think again about 6 months ago but haven’t heard anything, then read here that there might be some sort of wait list, I’m presuming that’s through the store?

Honestly, you should probably make a phone call and talk to a member of the JJP tech support team to ensure that you get on the wait list. It is pretty easy to ignore requests made via a website in my experience.

Gord

Yeah I suppose, not everyone thinks to feed their service requests from across customers facing endpoints into a central database with a simple api.

You’re dealing with a company that has been updating their website longer than it takes for them to release a title. Email them directly and if you don’t hear back within 48, call them.

I’m a fan of JJP machines but their “store” lacks, n that’s being nice.

Try emailing Nathan [email protected]

I just put my left outlane to the easy setting, I moved the left rail but now it looks like the outlane is almost closed.

It feels the ball is never go through it, I guess that's the idea but it almost feels like cheating.

Hi: Looking for WOZ 7.5V rainbow RGB LED. I have been waiting on 2.0 but taking too long for JJP to get these. Thanks

http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/W10-.html

2.0 light kits are now $849.00 If and when they are available.Craziness!! I think I paid $500 over the summer when they were available. I emailed and got put on the list. Pretty sure thats the only way you’ll see one moving forward.

The kits have been $800 for a long time.

Hmm….maybe I’m wrong then. I was contacted by JJ and did the transaction over the phone so didn’t physically see the sticker shock. Lol! Now if I can just get around to installing them. 7.5’s working fine so I’ll squeeze all the life out of them before I make the switch.

Doesn’t justify the cost at all. JJP knows the original boards were defective and instead of making things right they’re making money off of their poor designing.

I have one from an upgrade, pm if you still need. It may or may not work. See details below of what I have:

Still have a few 7.5v GIs left
$25 ea shipped
$50 for 3 shipped.
$75 for 5 shipped
I have what looks to be two 5v GI versions the prior owner installed (that's a no no mixing them, likely my whole problem prompting my 2.0 upgrade)
$40 for those two shipped
I have all the other single connector RGB boards
6 ea WOZSINGLE (PN [phone number removed] rev 12)
1 ea triangle shaped labeled WOZSINGLEII (PN [phone number removed] rev 12)
I have the following big boards remaining:
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED1 - sold
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED2 - sold
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED3
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED4 - sold
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED5
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED6
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED7
5v rev12 WOZLED8
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED9 - sold
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED10 (Rainbow LED board - MAY be good but that is the one that acted most weird in attract mode, this board ships for postage cost only, pay me balance if it works for you after receiving)
Big boards $60 each shipped or 2 for $100, 3 for $150, 4 for $200, 5 or more $40 each additional
These boards ALL did light up before upgrading my game. (And all sold so far have tested good) The problem I was having were, skewed led indications (due to missing 2 boards in chain no doubt) and flickering attract mode lighting throughout (likely due to prior owner mixing 5v and 7.5 v boards in system)
Boards are AS-IS, no guarantee or returns. If that's not acceptable, please don't buy.
PM me for availability. Paypal Friends & Family or Venmo. I'll ship priority mail.
Thanks!
Data cables also available 1 free per board purchased (specify length/type or part number if you can) Added cables $5 each (with purchase)

I'm curious why the pinside overview of WOZ only includes the standard and the YBR models? There were 3 other models technically... ECLE, original RUBY RED and 2019 ruby red re-release. Each game varies pretty significantly in current value, board updates and playfield toys. How do we go about getting pinside to correct this?

Also, how many 2019 RR WOZ's were made?

Because they all play exactly the same. YBR just doesnt have the flying monkey mod..

but they're all different with different values.

Right, like new Sterns? Pinside breaks these down within a group into the different trim models: pro, premium, and LE. Seems like there’s no reason there couldn’t be a single group for WOZ broken down into the various versions, though there would be a kinda ridiculous number of subcategories: original, emerald city, ruby red, green, yellow brick road. (Did I miss any?)

If you go with what was actually produced and released by JJP it would be Standard, ECLE, RR75th and YBR. That's not too many and I agree there should be seperate machines listed for them.

Weren’t the originals (“standards”) individually numbered releases as well or just some of them? I do remember they were pretty damn special at the time.

Actually, JJP made the Green Edition for Automated Services as well...

Well, from what I see, Stern machines are lumped together also, You have Pro, then Premium/LE. The premium and LE's arent the same cost either... But often, Pro's vs. Premium/LE will play differently.

I was under the impression it was based on gameplay. Unless im not looking at the same place.. Just looking under the "Machines" tab, then searching.

Meh there's no enforced standard. Medieval Madness Remake has 5 different models/entries (Limited, Standard, Classic, Special, and Royal Editions). Not only is the gameplay identical on all models but the standard and classic editions are actually the same model but with an updated naming convention (Standard is now called classic with CGC).

In addition, just to make things even more convoluted, folks can buy the upgrade kits to make their standard/classic into a special or royal edition (minus clearcoat).

I think that goes with my point... If they play the same so why differentiate? I didnt think the machines "ranking) (Not that they matter at all), would be impacted by just additional toys or whatever..

Yes, but they were more of a one-off special edition for a single distributor and were never listed on the JJP website anywhere so I consider it a boutique model rather than the something you can compare to the Stern Pro / Premium / LE.

I guess there are two ways to look at it, ratings / rankings or value / cost. I never even think about Pinside ratings of games but value / cost I do, others will have different priorities, hard to see how you could please both.

Fair enough...

Yea true.. But funny, I often hear people saying that the Pinside "values" are not accurate at all...

So I guess neither really matter haha.

Because each model has a different value.

People don't look up games in pinside's database to see how they play. They look them up to see what their values are because they're either a buyer or a seller.

A ruby red is worth more than an emerald city because the boards are updated. The 2019 ruby red re-release should be worth more than the original ruby red because it's newer. The YBR is even newer but is missing some features so it's generally worth less. The standard edition with the stainless trim and legs is least valuable.

They're ALL very different even though they play similarly. How they play doesn't matter.

Did you see my post one above this? Most people seem to say the pricing guide on Pinside isnt accurate anyways. To me, id rather spend the money on a game that people rank as better playing, vs. something that might be more "valuable".

Some Ruby Reds had the updated boards and some didn’t. Mine didn’t and I had to do the upgrade myself. ECLEs might be worth more than RRs if someone updated the boards as they had other desired features like the wooden apron. (That’s assuming it wasn’t an early run ECLE with playfield issues.) However, the RRs have more bling in terms of non-interactive toys (castle walls, Toto sculpture, etc). My point is that the type of game is only one part of the value. Whether pinside should break it all out or not, I don't know. But not all RRs are worth the same and not ECLEs are.

If pinside would update it's game database to represent actual game models, it could help with its inaccurate used game prices. Most people don't buy and sell games on their ranking in the pinside 100... which is notoriously inaccurate. That can NEVER be fixed since the fanboys will always bring the newest games into the top 5 of the pinside 100.

What if you have an ECLE that's worked perfectly for 7 years? Not sure that statement is always accurate.

All 2019 RR re-releases have the newer light boards. Is the wooden apron "desired" by everyone and in turn more valuable? Last I looed you couldn't even buy the updated light kit from JJP. It's still out of stock?

I'm really just trying to say the YBR and the standard WOZ games (as currently listed on pinside) DO NOT REPRESENT the entire WOZ line. Not even close.

I dont like the updated light kit.

Its too dim for me.

I do have sets of replacement boards though.

My ECLEWOZ has run perfectly since i bought it as an early adopter.

Its had a couple parts replaced, but the game looks brand new and plays like brand new too.

Im good for the next 20 years or so.

I was gonna say that...then decided to just let it go.

The first WOZ produced were ECLE's and the first ECLE's had the 5V boards. By the time RR's came off the line they had switched to the 7.5v boards. No production RR's had the 5V boards. Later RR runs had the 2.0 boards which sadly are dimmer but they are much more stable and less of a PITA.

Yep. And for me, the reliability of 2.0 outweighs the dimness.

It's great to have a stockpile of old boards because they have proven to eventually fail. That gets old.

It's better to have 2.0 because you don't have to fuck with them failing anymore. Also better for retaining value.

And it's nothing a few extra spotlights or a set of pinstadiums won't fix. It's not like it's the only dark game out there.

Yes, when he was talking about the updated boards, I assumed he was referring to 2.0. I don’t think there’s a price difference in machines that have 5v vs 7.5v. But there is likely a justifiable price difference between 2.0 games and those with 1.0+ boards.

I had to take out my Pinstadiums NEOs when I installed the Munchkin Huts as they are too large and go right up to the glass which leaves no room for the lights.

Fast forward 5 months and I finally had a look at cutting the right hand light bar to fit between the huts and shooter rod. I doubt Pinstadium would recommend doing this but I have quite a few sets so I’m not concerned about this set being permanently modified to only fit in WOZ.

In case anyone else wants to do this (keep in mind you could potentially ruin it), here’s what I did:
- I positioned the light bar to start right against the huts.
- I made a little cut mark where I thought the length was just about right and ends just above the apron.
- I carefully unglued the white diffuser up to around the cut mark.
- I cut both light strips at an identified cut mark on the strips. The cut marks weren’t perfectly aligned with each other but very close.
- I cut both the black plastic holder and white diffuser at the same length as the LED strips.
- I installed the lights back in with a new magnetic holder.

That’s it..

I tucked the wires behind the huts after I took the pictures. From the playing position you don’t notice them.

You can see on one pic where the LED strips are marked where you can cut. The white line with the scissors.

Now I can see the ball again!
8ED508F3-DD04-49C6-BE2D-67F753DC5003 (resized).jpeg
0A1CB492-7364-47BD-9839-83527E124F71 (resized).jpegF5B100E6-0DD6-4172-BDBD-6D288C9A3743 (resized).jpeg3CC1E5CB-547F-4BF0-8AE5-F97D2B7829A4 (resized).jpeg

The external LED pinstadium style GI lights work well and are easy to change to other machines if you feel the need.

Here's a couple pics. These were $150 a set and transformed my woz. The difference in person is more dramatic than the pics show.

Woz is a very dark game.
IMG_20220101_113047 (resized).jpgIMG_20220101_113124 (resized).jpg

I chimed in to make sure we are all talking about the same thing. Most newer pinheads aren't aware of the 5V issue and it would be a rude discovery to only learn about it after you brought it home. To me there is a difference between the 5V and 7.5V lights, enough of a difference that I would want a discount off the 7.5V price for a 5V game.

ALL of the daisy chained light systems, regardless of voltage, are garbage by design. 2.0 fixes the daisy chain disaster but comes at a monetary and brightness price. 2.0 with custom stadium style lights is the best solution, though a lot of work and money.

Hey folks. I am having something weird going on with the Castle flipper. If you hold down the right flipper button, the castle flipper repeatedly keeps firing...up/down/up/down/up/down etc. It will do this as long as the button is held. The other two right flippers work fine, and don't do this.

I am blindly assuming that its trying to indicate something...maybe a fault.

Any ideas?
Thanks

Have never seen that but I would test to see if the EOS switch is registering properly in the switch test, put the game in the mode and manually raise that flipper bat to full stroke and be sure it closes and stays closed.

One of the fine wires on the coil is broken off the solder lug. (The hold winding).

Unwrap one coil of the wire and resolder it, or bridge it with solder if you cant unwind it.

If that doesnt work out, steal a piece of wire off a dead coil and extend the wire. Put a piece of cellophane tape under the patch.

Replace the coil diodes while you are there if you want, but its not manditory. Its just buried and hard to get to.

The repair should last until you replace the coil.

It happens on flipper coils periodically.

Machine gunning...

Thanks. It just had to be that flipper of course. Looks like the castle is coming back out.

Anyone know the gauge/turns on that coil. Maybe I can luck out with the many WB coils I have on hand.

Its simpler just to fix the wire and call it good.

Ended up being a disconnection on the coil. Looks like they used connectors rather than soldering the wires. Not sure I would have trusted that, but that was the case.