(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

8 years ago


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  • 13,798 posts
  • 685 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by zaphX
  • Topic is favorited by 318 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 13,798 posts in this topic. You are on page 258 of 276.
#12851 9 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

Thanks for the insight! My tests are running clear, is there a way to manually trigger or test it? Do I just pop the glass and manually press things in that area and look for something? This is my first pin, just bought a couple days ago. Entirely new to maintenance but ready to dive in.

Yes. Put in switch test mode, take off the glass and manually press the switches on the upper playfield. Also bang around with your fist to make sure nothing is triggered by vibration.

You could also try, with the power OFF, unplugging and reseating the connectors on the opto I/O board. Make sure none are loose. Check the manual for where to find that.

#12852 9 months ago
Quoted from John_in_NC:

I have that just missing the plastic

Ok. I will take pictures this weekend and send to you..

#12853 9 months ago
Quoted from manadams:Looking for a throne room led board "W4" if anyone did an upgrade and has a 5V or 7.5V extra to spare.

This took me forever to find but I remembered this pinsider was selling some.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/119741

r/
Mike

#12854 9 months ago

Hi guys, so I”ve came across an issue with the rescue doors up top on my WOZ. I first noticed that the right door was not opening and closing smoothly, like it would not close or open all the way, and it would close or open kind of side ways. Only the right door is having this issue. So I ordered a new a door motor from Jersey Jack, installed it and it’s still behaving the same. I took the whole upper Playfield off, and I don’t see any thing that stands out that would cause this issue. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks everyone!

#12855 9 months ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

This took me forever to find but I remembered this pinsider was selling some.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/119741
r/
Mike

Those are mine and he got the WOZLED4 from me. Feedback on boards sold so far has been the boards are all testing good..

#12856 9 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Yes. Put in switch test mode, take off the glass and manually press the switches on the upper playfield. Also bang around with your fist to make sure nothing is triggered by vibration.
You could also try, with the power OFF, unplugging and reseating the connectors on the opto I/O board. Make sure none are loose. Check the manual for where to find that.

Thanks! Was able to narrow it down to my right castle door. It doesn't always return to its full position when closed; it stays in just a few mm, not visibily noticeable, and then it triggers as being hit during plunge.

Not sure exactly how to fix... loosening the door screw? WD-40 to the hinge? Something else?

#12857 9 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

Thanks! Was able to narrow it down to my right castle door. It doesn't always return to its full position when closed; it stays in just a few mm, not visibily noticeable, and then it triggers as being hit during plunge.
Not sure exactly how to fix... loosening the door screw? WD-40 to the hinge? Something else?

It sounds like it needs a physical adjustment with the door flange. You're going to have to pull the castle playfield to fix this.

It will make sense once you see how it works.

#12858 9 months ago
Quoted from Jackpotjared:

Hi guys, so I”ve came across an issue with the rescue doors up top on my WOZ. I first noticed that the right door was not opening and closing smoothly, like it would not close or open all the way, and it would close or open kind of side ways. Only the right door is having this issue. So I ordered a new a door motor from Jersey Jack, installed it and it’s still behaving the same. I took the whole upper Playfield off, and I don’t see any thing that stands out that would cause this issue. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks everyone!

Quoted from prentice:

Thanks! Was able to narrow it down to my right castle door. It doesn't always return to its full position when closed; it stays in just a few mm, not visibily noticeable, and then it triggers as being hit during plunge.
Not sure exactly how to fix... loosening the door screw? WD-40 to the hinge? Something else?

Castle door fixes here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-castle-doors-not-closing-fully

#12859 9 months ago

Where can I find instructions on removing the castle mini playfield? Is it a lot of work?

Thanks

#12860 9 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Where can I find instructions on removing the castle mini playfield? Is it a lot of work?
Thanks

Its not too bad. Easier than removing the munchkin playfield. Very good details mapped out in the instruction manual.

Screenshot_20210927-122801_OneDrive (resized).jpg
#12861 9 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Where can I find instructions on removing the castle mini playfield? Is it a lot of work?
Thanks

I see that paulbaptise just posted the castle playfield removal instructions for you. I have removed the castle playfield 3 times and if you follow the instructions that were provided and take your time (it is not a race) you shouldn't have any problems.

Gord

#12862 9 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Where can I find instructions on removing the castle mini playfield? Is it a lot of work?
Thanks

Its a 10 min job once you have done it.

#12863 9 months ago

***SOLD*** 7.5 volt light boards listed for sale in the marketplace.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-75-volt-wizard-of-oz-light-boards

#12864 9 months ago

What's the best email to contact at JJP to get on the 2.0 lighting list? Thanks!

#12865 9 months ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

What's the best email to contact at JJP to get on the 2.0 lighting list? Thanks!

[email protected]

Ken got back to me within an hour confirming I was on the list.

#12866 9 months ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

This took me forever to find but I remembered this pinsider was selling some.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/119741
r/
Mike

Yep I bought the one he had available, thanks for looking out.

#12867 9 months ago
Quoted from MLmotorsport:

[email protected]
Ken got back to me within an hour confirming I was on the list.

I called them up months ago and got on the list...any ETA on the board set? I could design my own boards in the time that I've been waiting...

#12868 9 months ago
Quoted from skogen75:

I called them up months ago and got on the list...any ETA on the board set? I could design my own boards in the time that I've been waiting...

I was told at the end of the year they plan to have them.

#12869 9 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its a 10 min job once you have done it.

Thanks everyone. Yes, wasn't too bad. Just looks intimidating. I found a wire discounted for my Capture insert. Now all good.

Thanks!

#12870 9 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I did see that and he said he's going to beat ACM's high score which looked pretty low though I did forget to rewind and see exactly what it is (my wife gets a little testy when I do things like that so I waited). Apparetly Jason is an avid pinball guy in real life and someone on FB said they rented him games multiple times, not sure if he owns any but would be surprised if he doesn't.

There was a New Yorker article from 2016 that talked about him owning 10 games, and the article mentions he had a notebook of repairs he needed to make to the machines. There’s also a pic with Jason and Jersey Jack when JJP was delivering his WOZ RR in 2017.

#12871 9 months ago

Deleted

Munched (resized).png
#12872 9 months ago

Does anyone know who made the haunted forest lit tree eyes mod?

Thanks

#12873 9 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Does anyone know who made the haunted forest lit tree eyes mod?
Thanks

WOZMODS.com had them. Site seems down. Member has been inactive on Pinside.

#12874 9 months ago

game is dead in the water. tried reset, jump pins, etc. sent a message to jjp help desk, said to try to reset bios and replace battery. replaced battery but have no idea how to adjust bios in the game. anybody got any vids or illustrations on how to do this?

#12875 9 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

game is dead in the water. tried reset, jump pins, etc. sent a message to jjp help desk, said to try to reset bios and replace battery. replaced battery but have no idea how to adjust bios in the game. anybody got any vids or illustrations on how to do this?

If you pulled the battery to change it then the BIOS is reset. Did you try jumping pins after replacing the battery?

#12877 9 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

sent a message to jjp help desk, said to try to reset bios and replace battery.

Ask them again how to do that part.

LTG : )

#12878 9 months ago

Ccbigsoo

Hopefully this attaches properly. If you need to jump your cpu, this you tube video by Butch Peel is how you do it.

#12879 8 months ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Ccbigsoo
Hopefully this attaches properly. If you need to jump your cpu, this you tube video by Butch Peel is how you do it.

yeah, tried all of this like 10x, still nothing.

#12880 8 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

game is dead in the water. tried reset, jump pins, etc. sent a message to jjp help desk, said to try to reset bios and replace battery. replaced battery but have no idea how to adjust bios in the game. anybody got any vids or illustrations on how to do this?

Bios is easy.

Just set it to ignore all errors and restart normally on power loss.

But you need to attach a USB keyboard, to the back of the computer, to hit F1 or to get in for adjustments.

Does your screen come on at all?

Is it completely dead, no power, no lights?

#12881 8 months ago

Apologies if this has been covered!

I am constantly having to open the machine up and reseating the RCA cables as I am losing volume on the speech. Today I turn the machine on and right off the bat the witch laughing is very faint. I open the game up, reset the left and right cables issued resolved. Almost as if over time the jacks just come loose enough enough where it effects the sound. I know the jacks and connectors are cheapies so anyone have a good fix for this?

#12882 8 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Apologies if this has been covered!
I am constantly having to open the machine up and reseating the RCA cables as I am losing volume on the speech. Today I turn the machine on and right off the bat the witch laughing is very faint. I open the game up, reset the left and right cables issued resolved. Almost as if over time the jacks just come loose enough enough where it effects the sound. I know the jacks and connectors are cheapies so anyone have a good fix for this?

If the game has a ground loop isolator, remove it and bypass it.

See if it improves, if so, maybe get a new one.

#12883 8 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Almost as if over time the jacks just come loose enough enough where it effects the sound. I know the jacks and connectors are cheapies so anyone have a good fix for this?

Turn game off. Clean them with alcohol and crimp the edges a tiny bit so they hold better.

LTG : )

#12884 8 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Apologies if this has been covered!
I am constantly having to open the machine up and reseating the RCA cables as I am losing volume on the speech. Today I turn the machine on and right off the bat the witch laughing is very faint. I open the game up, reset the left and right cables issued resolved. Almost as if over time the jacks just come loose enough enough where it effects the sound. I know the jacks and connectors are cheapies so anyone have a good fix for this?

Buy new RCA cables. The stock cables are complete garbage.

#12885 8 months ago

I know jumping motherboard has been covered and know how to do that. Recently every time I try to play a game after game has been turned off, I have to jump start it. Get the no signal error every time I switch the game on. Tried putting motherboard from Hobbit I own into WOZ and it starts and plays great with that board So probably a problem with the WOZ motherboard? Fixable or replace?

#12886 8 months ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

I know jumping motherboard has been covered and know how to do that. Recently every time I try to play a game after game has been turned off, I have to jump start it. Get the no signal error every time I switch the game on. Tried putting motherboard from Hobbit I own into WOZ and it starts and plays great with that board So probably a problem with the WOZ motherboard? Fixable or replace?

Did you replace the battery? Not sure if that would be the cause, but maybe try it if you haven’t.

#12887 8 months ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:I know jumping motherboard has been covered and know how to do that. Recently every time I try to play a game after game has been turned off, I have to jump start it. Get the no signal error every time I switch the game on. Tried putting motherboard from Hobbit I own into WOZ and it starts and plays great with that board So probably a problem with the WOZ motherboard? Fixable or replace?

BIOS not set properly

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/258#post-6536967

#12888 8 months ago

Just picked up a RR and I’ve just noticed the bottom left of the lcd is quite dull. Would I be correct in saying the lcd is faulty or could there be something else causing this?
The camera makes it look brighter than it actually looks in person

03E85E26-C6EF-4352-A7B8-69B1943DA6E4 (resized).jpeg3EFABF70-DB5A-4671-AB4F-B6B56D20EB7C (resized).jpeg
#12889 8 months ago

A few questions on my newly acquired first pin (and accordant maintenance!)

I got a mid-2014 standard edition WOZ with 7.5 v1.1 boards, running the latest firmware (7.03-NSE).

One major issue and a bunch of minor questions below! Tips on any are appreciated.

1. My largest issue is a right castle-door problem that seems not to with the motor/screws but with the springs. I posted that separately to try to keep that thread useful for future owners (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-castle-doors-not-closing-fully/page/2#post-6542953).

2. In the menu settings, when I got to the switch test mode (or is it coils test?), where it says to press Start button to test a switch; I can navigate between the switches, however, the start button doesn't actually trigger anything. When looking at passive switch detection, it registers the Start button just fine, and the Start button works everywhere else just fine. Just seems to be a bug in that menu?

3. When I tightened up the left outlane bumper (easy mode), the rubber is pushed sharply up against the outlane rail, depressing the rubber. Is this OK/normal?

4. How do I open the backglass? I can't find this information anywhere in the manual, am I just blind? I unlocked the top, and then tried to slide the glass up and out like I saw other machines on Youtube, but couldn't get anything to budge. (BTW, is the lock open when the key is perpendicular to the backglass?)

5. I get a lot of buzzing/humming, seemingly based on what is shown onscreen. Not really noticeable except during startup. I've ordered a ground loop isolator, but have no idea where to install it. I see a 1/8" plug at the bottom back of the cabinet, do just insert it in there? (Or within the backglass?)

6. Monkey seems to be just slightly low and somewhat loud/grindy. Seems to rub a little bit on the bottom wood. I couldn't see an obvious way to lift it up 1-2mm. It functions, so this is low priority. I've ordered lithium grease for the metal.

7. I installed protectors on the 4 front plastics, but the right sling protector extends a bit into the wireform drop area, and every time ball drops it hits that protector a bit. I tried bending wireform a bit, but can't really find any position to completely eliminate that. Is it a concern? Or just something to replace later? The left one seems to maybe also have a bit of the issue, but not as much.

8. I installed a shaker motor, but it seems a little noisier than I would have expected. Not alarmingly so, just annoying. Like sort of squeaky, not rattle-y.

Thanks for tips on any of these!!

#12890 8 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

4. How do I open the backglass? I can't find this information anywhere in the manual, am I just blind? I unlocked the top, and then tried to slide the glass up and out like I saw other machines on Youtube, but couldn't get anything to budge. (BTW, is the lock open when the key is perpendicular to the backglass?)

Using the right key, the one hanging on the inside of the coin door and not the coin door key ?

Try key in either position. Glass should lift up in one of them.

LTG : )

#12891 8 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

My largest issue is a right castle-door problem that seems not to with the motor/screws but with the springs.

No, its probably the motor and some adjustments to be made and things to check.

Quoted from prentice:

How do I open the backglass?

The glass can sit VERY tightly in the channel. Open the lock, apply firm pressure the the lift trim without breaking it off, smack the glass firmly and repeatedly with the palm of your free hand. It will start to move.

Ultimately if will work itself off.

In my opinion, Dont remove it unless you need to. Theres really nothing in the backbox that goes bad easily.

#12892 8 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

I've ordered a ground loop isolator, but have no idea where to install it.

The speakers plug into the round green hole on the backside of the computer, just like a regular PC

Unplug the speaker wire from the back of the PC, the isolator plugs into this same green hole the speaker wire was in, then plug speaker wire into the isolator.

#12893 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

In my opinion, Dont remove it unless you need to. Theres really nothing in the backbox that goes bad easily.

If you insist and have problems. Remove screws from speaker panel. Careful with speaker wires. Then with the panel off you can figure out what is up with the backglass. Or latch on the lock.

LTG : )

#12894 8 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

If you insist and have problems. Remove screws from speaker panel. Careful with speaker wires. Then with the panel off you can figure out what is up with the backglass. Or latch on the lock.
LTG : )

Remember, mine was so tight I had to hammer it back in with a block of wood to be able to see the horses on the screen. lol.

For months I thought the monitor was too low. But it was the backglass that was too high and needed to be hammered down due to its fight fit in the channel.

#12895 8 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

When I tightened up the left outlane bumper (easy mode), the rubber is pushed sharply up against the outlane rail, depressing the rubber. Is this OK/normal?

Yes this is normal, the flatrail can be moved away from the rubber as needed.

#12896 8 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

I installed protectors on the 4 front plastics, but the right sling protector extends a bit into the wireform drop area, and every time ball drops it hits that protector a bit. I tried bending wireform a bit, but can't really find any position to completely eliminate that. Is it a concern? Or just something to replace later? The left one seems to maybe also have a bit of the issue, but not as much.

Sand down the edge of the protector so It doesnt interfere. Some of the protectors are too big or fit poorly.

#12897 8 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

Monkey seems to be just slightly low and somewhat loud/grindy. Seems to rub a little bit on the bottom wood. I couldn't see an obvious way to lift it up 1-2mm. It functions, so this is low priority. I've ordered lithium grease for the metal.

Lithium grease is ok, but silicone grease is better. A little is a lot, gobs of grease doesnt do anything.

If the rod is very gummy or crusty, clean it all of with Naptha and then apply a thin coat of grease.

While you are greasing this threaded rod, grease the one that operates the witch also.

#12898 8 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

2. In the menu settings, when I got to the switch test mode (or is it coils test?), where it says to press Start button to test a switch; I can navigate between the switches, however, the start button doesn't actually trigger anything. When looking at passive switch detection, it registers the Start button just fine, and the Start button works everywhere else just fine. Just seems to be a bug in that menu?

If you are in switch test mode, then pressing the start button doesn't test the switches, just the start switch. You need to take the glass off and press the switches manually.

If, in fact, you are in coil test mode, then you need to pull the interlock switch by the coin door to allow high power to flow so that you can test the coils. See the manual for where this is if you are unsure.

#12899 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Bios is easy.
Just set it to ignore all errors and restart normally on power loss.
But you need to attach a USB keyboard, to the back of the computer, to hit F1 or to get in for adjustments.
Does your screen come on at all?
Is it completely dead, no power, no lights?

Get the no signal input and attaching a USB keyboard it does nothing to see to help unfortunately. Software is on current update.

#12900 8 months ago

Basically I have to jump start it thaen it starts the fans and goes through start up mode and plays after that. But jump starting every time I want to platy has become old. Anithrr board when place in Hobbit and WOZ works great. No problem. But the mothrrboard that dedicated to WOZ-- neither game can it start up without a jump start. Thanks again for suggestions so far and future ones!

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