Yes. Put in switch test mode, take off the glass and manually press the switches on the upper playfield. Also bang around with your fist to make sure nothing is triggered by vibration.

You could also try, with the power OFF, unplugging and reseating the connectors on the opto I/O board. Make sure none are loose. Check the manual for where to find that.

Ok. I will take pictures this weekend and send to you..

This took me forever to find but I remembered this pinsider was selling some.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/119741

r/
Mike

Hi guys, so I”ve came across an issue with the rescue doors up top on my WOZ. I first noticed that the right door was not opening and closing smoothly, like it would not close or open all the way, and it would close or open kind of side ways. Only the right door is having this issue. So I ordered a new a door motor from Jersey Jack, installed it and it’s still behaving the same. I took the whole upper Playfield off, and I don’t see any thing that stands out that would cause this issue. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks everyone!

Those are mine and he got the WOZLED4 from me. Feedback on boards sold so far has been the boards are all testing good..

Thanks! Was able to narrow it down to my right castle door. It doesn't always return to its full position when closed; it stays in just a few mm, not visibily noticeable, and then it triggers as being hit during plunge.

Not sure exactly how to fix... loosening the door screw? WD-40 to the hinge? Something else?

It sounds like it needs a physical adjustment with the door flange. You're going to have to pull the castle playfield to fix this.

It will make sense once you see how it works.

Castle door fixes here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-castle-doors-not-closing-fully

Where can I find instructions on removing the castle mini playfield? Is it a lot of work?

Thanks

Its not too bad. Easier than removing the munchkin playfield. Very good details mapped out in the instruction manual.

Screenshot_20210927-122801_OneDrive (resized).jpg

I see that paulbaptiste just posted the castle playfield removal instructions for you. I have removed the castle playfield 3 times and if you follow the instructions that were provided and take your time (it is not a race) you shouldn't have any problems.

Gord

Its a 10 min job once you have done it.

***SOLD*** 7.5 volt light boards listed for sale in the marketplace.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-75-volt-wizard-of-oz-light-boards

What's the best email to contact at JJP to get on the 2.0 lighting list? Thanks!

[email protected]

Ken got back to me within an hour confirming I was on the list.

Yep I bought the one he had available, thanks for looking out.

I called them up months ago and got on the list...any ETA on the board set? I could design my own boards in the time that I've been waiting...

I was told at the end of the year they plan to have them.

Thanks everyone. Yes, wasn't too bad. Just looks intimidating. I found a wire discounted for my Capture insert. Now all good.

Thanks!

There was a New Yorker article from 2016 that talked about him owning 10 games, and the article mentions he had a notebook of repairs he needed to make to the machines. There’s also a pic with Jason and Jersey Jack when JJP was delivering his WOZ RR in 2017.

Deleted

Munched (resized).png

Does anyone know who made the haunted forest lit tree eyes mod?

Thanks

WOZMODS.com had them. Site seems down. Member has been inactive on Pinside.

game is dead in the water. tried reset, jump pins, etc. sent a message to jjp help desk, said to try to reset bios and replace battery. replaced battery but have no idea how to adjust bios in the game. anybody got any vids or illustrations on how to do this?

If you pulled the battery to change it then the BIOS is reset. Did you try jumping pins after replacing the battery?

7.5v lightboard set for sale.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/complete-woz-75-light-board-set#post-6521711

Ask them again how to do that part.

LTG : )

Ccbigsoo

Hopefully this attaches properly. If you need to jump your cpu, this you tube video by Butch Peel is how you do it.

yeah, tried all of this like 10x, still nothing.

Bios is easy.

Just set it to ignore all errors and restart normally on power loss.

But you need to attach a USB keyboard, to the back of the computer, to hit F1 or to get in for adjustments.

Does your screen come on at all?

Is it completely dead, no power, no lights?

Apologies if this has been covered!

I am constantly having to open the machine up and reseating the RCA cables as I am losing volume on the speech. Today I turn the machine on and right off the bat the witch laughing is very faint. I open the game up, reset the left and right cables issued resolved. Almost as if over time the jacks just come loose enough enough where it effects the sound. I know the jacks and connectors are cheapies so anyone have a good fix for this?

If the game has a ground loop isolator, remove it and bypass it.

See if it improves, if so, maybe get a new one.

Turn game off. Clean them with alcohol and crimp the edges a tiny bit so they hold better.

LTG : )

Buy new RCA cables. The stock cables are complete garbage.

I know jumping motherboard has been covered and know how to do that. Recently every time I try to play a game after game has been turned off, I have to jump start it. Get the no signal error every time I switch the game on. Tried putting motherboard from Hobbit I own into WOZ and it starts and plays great with that board So probably a problem with the WOZ motherboard? Fixable or replace?

Did you replace the battery? Not sure if that would be the cause, but maybe try it if you haven’t.

BIOS not set properly

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/258#post-6536967

Just picked up a RR and I’ve just noticed the bottom left of the lcd is quite dull. Would I be correct in saying the lcd is faulty or could there be something else causing this?
The camera makes it look brighter than it actually looks in person

03E85E26-C6EF-4352-A7B8-69B1943DA6E4 (resized).jpeg

3EFABF70-DB5A-4671-AB4F-B6B56D20EB7C (resized).jpeg

A few questions on my newly acquired first pin (and accordant maintenance!)

I got a mid-2014 standard edition WOZ with 7.5 v1.1 boards, running the latest firmware (7.03-NSE).

One major issue and a bunch of minor questions below! Tips on any are appreciated.

1. My largest issue is a right castle-door problem that seems not to with the motor/screws but with the springs. I posted that separately to try to keep that thread useful for future owners (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-castle-doors-not-closing-fully/page/2#post-6542953).

2. In the menu settings, when I got to the switch test mode (or is it coils test?), where it says to press Start button to test a switch; I can navigate between the switches, however, the start button doesn't actually trigger anything. When looking at passive switch detection, it registers the Start button just fine, and the Start button works everywhere else just fine. Just seems to be a bug in that menu?

3. When I tightened up the left outlane bumper (easy mode), the rubber is pushed sharply up against the outlane rail, depressing the rubber. Is this OK/normal?

4. How do I open the backglass? I can't find this information anywhere in the manual, am I just blind? I unlocked the top, and then tried to slide the glass up and out like I saw other machines on Youtube, but couldn't get anything to budge. (BTW, is the lock open when the key is perpendicular to the backglass?)

5. I get a lot of buzzing/humming, seemingly based on what is shown onscreen. Not really noticeable except during startup. I've ordered a ground loop isolator, but have no idea where to install it. I see a 1/8" plug at the bottom back of the cabinet, do just insert it in there? (Or within the backglass?)

6. Monkey seems to be just slightly low and somewhat loud/grindy. Seems to rub a little bit on the bottom wood. I couldn't see an obvious way to lift it up 1-2mm. It functions, so this is low priority. I've ordered lithium grease for the metal.

7. I installed protectors on the 4 front plastics, but the right sling protector extends a bit into the wireform drop area, and every time ball drops it hits that protector a bit. I tried bending wireform a bit, but can't really find any position to completely eliminate that. Is it a concern? Or just something to replace later? The left one seems to maybe also have a bit of the issue, but not as much.

8. I installed a shaker motor, but it seems a little noisier than I would have expected. Not alarmingly so, just annoying. Like sort of squeaky, not rattle-y.

Thanks for tips on any of these!!

Using the right key, the one hanging on the inside of the coin door and not the coin door key ?

Try key in either position. Glass should lift up in one of them.

LTG : )

No, its probably the motor and some adjustments to be made and things to check.

The glass can sit VERY tightly in the channel. Open the lock, apply firm pressure the the lift trim without breaking it off, smack the glass firmly and repeatedly with the palm of your free hand. It will start to move.

Ultimately if will work itself off.

In my opinion, Dont remove it unless you need to. Theres really nothing in the backbox that goes bad easily.

The speakers plug into the round green hole on the backside of the computer, just like a regular PC

Unplug the speaker wire from the back of the PC, the isolator plugs into this same green hole the speaker wire was in, then plug speaker wire into the isolator.

If you insist and have problems. Remove screws from speaker panel. Careful with speaker wires. Then with the panel off you can figure out what is up with the backglass. Or latch on the lock.

LTG : )

Remember, mine was so tight I had to hammer it back in with a block of wood to be able to see the horses on the screen. lol.

For months I thought the monitor was too low. But it was the backglass that was too high and needed to be hammered down due to its fight fit in the channel.

Yes this is normal, the flatrail can be moved away from the rubber as needed.

Sand down the edge of the protector so It doesnt interfere. Some of the protectors are too big or fit poorly.

Lithium grease is ok, but silicone grease is better. A little is a lot, gobs of grease doesnt do anything.

If the rod is very gummy or crusty, clean it all of with Naptha and then apply a thin coat of grease.

While you are greasing this threaded rod, grease the one that operates the witch also.

If you are in switch test mode, then pressing the start button doesn't test the switches, just the start switch. You need to take the glass off and press the switches manually.

If, in fact, you are in coil test mode, then you need to pull the interlock switch by the coin door to allow high power to flow so that you can test the coils. See the manual for where this is if you are unsure.

Get the no signal input and attaching a USB keyboard it does nothing to see to help unfortunately. Software is on current update.

Basically I have to jump start it thaen it starts the fans and goes through start up mode and plays after that. But jump starting every time I want to platy has become old. Anithrr board when place in Hobbit and WOZ works great. No problem. But the mothrrboard that dedicated to WOZ-- neither game can it start up without a jump start. Thanks again for suggestions so far and future ones!