I bought my line conditioner specifically because I purchased my Wizard of Oz. Knowing it didn't have 2.0 it felt like some added help to hopefully make the 7.5s last just a little bit longer. My Willy Wonka and my Wizard of Oz are plugged into it. It has outlets for up to six devices. I don't leave it on or plugged in when the games are off. Vampire voltage kwh abuser if left on.
I do have the 2.0 kit patiently waiting to install when/if I need it. I also use an ESD setup whenever I remove the glass and happen to touch anything on the playfield or under it. Latent damage on electronics is real.
r/
Mike

Screenshot_20210831-143757_Amazon Shopping (resized).jpgScreenshot_20210831-143807_Amazon Shopping (resized).jpg

anybody got a extra ecle translite they would sell?

My ECLEWOZ has a true backglass.

Did they made any translites for it?

You might get a backglass from JJP if yours is broken.

Kind of. Same size as a translite but with artwork where the screen is. Neat artwork for the wall.

LTG : )

id take either, jjp has no parts for hardly anything they made. kinda sad.

I have an RR WOZ was told it had the 2.0 upgrade but the pcbs are red. Does anyone know if these were possibly modified to 2.0 before they were made green? I have had absolutely no problems with these bds or this pin in the year that I have had it. Picture included. Thanks

IMG_2313 (resized).jpg

You have a 2.0. 2.0 has Ethernet cables vs red green in and out data cables

Thanks

No way to modify them. They are 2.0 or they aren't 2.0

LTG : )

In general when you see Red or any other color than green PCBs in anything it means they are prototype or sample boards. Doesn't mean anything significant was changed for production but it's kind of a cool thing to have.

Not necessarily anymore as you have people making replacement boards in red. Just something to keep in mind.

Super high replacement board prices drive people to simply send them out and have them copied.

Its an amazing world when you can copy a circuit board and have it populated with parts in 1 hour (for simple single layer boards).

I was shocked to learn of this.

Chinese circular development/manufacturing is lightning fast and inexpensive.

And available in a variety of colors.

Sure, but if EVERY board in the game is red......

Hello my crystal ball recently came detached from the bracket. Looks to be two sided tape or glue holding it before. Any advice what’s beat to use for re-attachment as it needs to be pressed against that screen for the hologram to appear correctly. Thanks.

5 minute epoxy.

LTG : )

Tonight I put a ball through the castle doors and it does not come out. Doors are working but it either does not recognize that the ball is in the hole or it does not want to kick it out. Anybody have had this issue?

Check the opto in the hole in switch test with a finger.

Maybe the connector is loose on the opto board or dirty opto or a wire fell off.

Use this clear epoxy:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/J-B-WELD-Clearweld-Clear-Epoxy-Adhesive/50149636?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-google-_-lia-_-221-_-glue-_-50149636-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=CjwKCAjwp_GJBhBmEiwALWBQk8HMaCxh90ZbWpJOJPiUM_KfsJCp1roVCFwbQ2T31Mg9XeteqqH6ZRoCtrYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Use a dab the size of a dime.

More just splooges out everywhere.

You can also go into solenoid test and see if that kickout will fire in test mode.

Did anybody else see the latest episode of Ted Lasso? Ted Lasso (Jason Sudeikis) was playing a WOZ standard edition in a bar.

Yes indeed. He is also a big Kansas City guy with a ton of references to Kansas and KC in the show. I wonder if they went with WoZ due to the Kansas references from the movie too.

I did see that and he said he's going to beat ACM's high score which looked pretty low though I did forget to rewind and see exactly what it is (my wife gets a little testy when I do things like that so I waited). Apparetly Jason is an avid pinball guy in real life and someone on FB said they rented him games multiple times, not sure if he owns any but would be surprised if he doesn't.

Looking for a throne room led board "W4" if anyone did an upgrade and has a 5V or 7.5V extra to spare.

My capture insert light in the castle does not work. I have never worked under the castle. My fear is it is on a board and the board needs replacing. I already have 2.0 boards. Please tell me otherwise.

Could be a loose connection going up to that board, check out the 2.0 wiring diagram in the manual for where it connects and trace that wire down, you might get lucky.

Board could also be rotated if it's a single attachment point. I've had that happen.

I got my standard WOZ from an operator. It was pretty dirty and the leds were fubar, needed a 2.0 upgrade. The audit showed like 2900 lifetime earnings and like 3200 games as I recall. It had v2.0 software so it was parked very early in its life.

Long story short I did the 2.0 lighting upgrade, loaded 7.03 software and shopped the game. Cleaned up perfect, no visible wear and mechanics needed nothing save a little monkeying around with the flying monkey to get that working right.

The cabinet is near mint but I’m missing the stock topper. Anyone have one left over from an upgrade?

Help - can anyone tell me what the issue is? - here is the thread NO SIGNAL

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-no-signal-on-screen#post-6512803

I didn't upgrade the boards. It was done by previous owner. Can anyone help me with this?

Thanks

Hi All
Forgive me if this isn't the right forum (please point me to the correct one). I have a RR, and planning on doing the v2.0 light board swap.
How long does this typically take? Does anyone know of any videos (youtube maybe) on someone doing the upgrade to the v2.0 boards (I had a quick peek)?
Thank you

Nothing hard. Just time consuming. A good day to do a nice job.

LTG : )

Thank you. A good day, like 8 hours? Do you have to drill the underneath of the playfield to install the new v2.0 boards?
Thanks again

Probably more.

Big bards are an even swap. Small boards drill two small pilot holes for new screws ( I only did one each ) Put a collar on your drill bit so you don't go through the playfield )

Remove old boards and power supply. Remove power cables and data harnesses. From castle playfield and spinning house playfield too.

Mount new boards and B.A.G. board and hub board. Mount new power supply. Run ethernet cables and power cables. Cable tie things so it looks neat.

That is the basics.

LTG : )

I keep checking for the 2.0 kit to come in on JJP's website, but it's always out of stock.

Email Nate Lawinger. I believe they had a boat load come into stock. Hopefully he still has them.
[email protected]

More like 12-14. I broke mine up over a couple of weekends to stay fresh. It’s not bad. Just time consuming.

Post here if you get lost on the way, a lot of us have done the swap,, I was freaking out when I cut the first cable but I ended up having fun

Thank you. Very much appreciate it!!

I did have to re-drill a couple of times when it turned out the cable wasn't long enough for how I had the individual small boards mounted so be wary of that. I didn't use it but this tool may be helpful if you're nervous about it: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1139-pinworlds/03336-woz-lighting-20-playfield-dimpler-tool

First problem, you said your capture light on the castle pf won't light - there's no capture insert on the mini playfield so which one is it, Search??

It doesn't really matter who did the swap or if it was done at the factory, you'll have to determine if it's a loose connection, a bad LED / LED board or something else. The wiring diagram will just show you where that board plugs into and you can lift the playfield and find the cables that go up to the mini playfield and check those connections. If that isn't the problem you'll probably have to pull the mini playfield off and look at those connections and maybe even swap the board out if it's bad.

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Yes, it is the insert on the mini playfield, top middle for the mini loop up there.

Thanks.

Scorbit just released Achievements with JJP, Starting with Wonka, WOZ will be coming soon.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/scorbit-official-thread/page/6#post-6513731

Just updated from 6.06 to the latest (7.03?) and noticed a couple changes, not sure if bugs.

1) When starting every new game, the RESCUE screen plays at full screen and its music plays for the first few seconds of the game until the quadrants appear; that seems odd. Is that normal?
2) Sometimes seems to auto-plunge the ball on a new ball start; noticed this more in a multiplayer game, where for example player 3 would always get auto-plunged when their turn came up.

Any thoughts on either?

Sounds to me you have a switch closed somewhere. Anything show up in switch test?

I might be able to help you. I have a "Green Editiion" that originally came with the stock standard topper but I wanted to upgrade to the Emerald Green topper and purchased from JJP..

I saved it but just have to find it and see what condition it is in. I know that JJP was having issues with these where there are strange white lines or missing white lines.

I will try to remind myself and post a picture for you.

One thing to mention, I do not have an extra bracket or light strip for it...

Agreed. Likely a switch on the upper castle playfield given the Rescue music.

I have that just missing the plastic

Thanks for the insight! My tests are running clear, is there a way to manually trigger or test it? Do I just pop the glass and manually press things in that area and look for something? This is my first pin, just bought a couple days ago. Entirely new to maintenance but ready to dive in.