Are your boards 5.0V or 7 5V?

Thank you,
Jason

Like this?

IMG_7923 (resized).JPG

Yep. That’s 2.0 lighting.

Thanks

The N light at the end of Tin Man is acting strange. When all inserts are red it does not light. When all are yellow, it lights green. Not sure about other colors. Any ideas on that?

Still have a few 7.5v GIs left
$25 ea shipped
$50 for 3 shipped.
$75 for 5 shipped

I have what looks to be two 5v GI versions the prior owner installed (that's a no no mixing them, likely my whole problem prompting my 2.0 upgrade)
$40 for those two shipped

I have all the other single connector RGB boards
6 ea WOZSINGLE (PN 15-0008-00 rev 12)
1 ea triangle shaped labeled WOZSINGLEII (PN 15-0008-11 rev 12)

I have all other big boards remaining
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED1
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED2
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED3
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED4
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED5
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED6
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED7
5v rev12 WOZLED8 (Castle led board) (again think that was a boo boo on the prior owner but leds did function)
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED9
7.5v rev1.1 WOZLED10 (Rainbow LED board - MAY be good but that is the one that acted most weird in attract mode)

Big boards $60 each shipped or 2 for $100, 3 for $150, 4 for $200, 5 or more $40 each additional

These boards ALL did light up before upgrading my game. The problem I was having were, skewed led indications (due to missing 2 boards in chain no doubt) and flickering attract mode lighting throughout (likely due to prior owner mixing 5v and 7.5 v boards in system)

Boards are AS-IS, no guarantee or returns. If that's not acceptable, please don't buy.

PM me for availability. Paypal Friends & Family or Venmo. I'll ship priority mail.

Thanks!
Data cables also available 1 free per board purchased (specify length/type or part number if you can) Added cables $5 each (with purchase)

The LED is bad. It is missing the red so red shows up as nothing and yellow, which is a combination of red and green, shows as green since there is no red. You likely need a new board.

New owner here. I have an original standard version. I've got all the issues/bugs worked out except one....

Everytime the castle flipper engages, the castle lock door also opens. When I lift the pf out and set it on the lock down bar, it still occurs, but not as much. When I lift it higher, it does not happen.

Guessing there is a short on the mini pf - started to remove it, but how do I fix it assuming the flipper mech is causing the short?

Thanks.

Sounds like a short or bad/loose wire in the harness.

Maybe a bad diode.

Can anyone give me advice on how to get ahold of Jersey Jack to help me with a board issue? I have a WOZ RR with 1.0 boards. Previously had to replace rainbow board. Now, looks like Haunted Forest is out, but I'm not convinced it is the only one as when I wired around it, everything is off, even when I turn off the board in the settings.

I've come to the conclusion that the only logical approach is to upgrade to 2.0 boards, but the kit has been out of stock for a long time. I've used the website on a couple of occasions and have left a couple of voicemails, but no one ever responds to me.

How do I find out an ETA on the 2.0 kits and get added to a waiting list if JJP won't answer my calls or emails?

JJP will answer calls and emails, but the best way is to open a support ticket using the website. The latest word is that the 2.0 kits will be back in stock somewhere around the end of the calendar year. If you like you can PM me also.

Weird, I have had no problem getting responses. Pm me and I’ll turn you on to the guy I have been working with.

My new PC and security dongle arrived today from JJP. Hopefully I can find some time to install soon.

H310CM is the new board set they are sending out.

20210826_195518.jpg

20210826_195547.jpg

A friend has a WOZ Emerald. The down coil to his Winkie target is done. He said JJP won’t sell him just the mini coil part 23-3013-00. He has to buy the whole Winkie mech it’s attached to. Anyone have luck getting this coil? Or any recommendations on where to buy 23 gauge wire? Thx

I think marco or pps has the coil

I’m not seeing the smaller coil on Marco. Here’s what it looks like…a stubby

4CDE5DC8-AD77-4740-AE32-9FF112EE4C94 (resized).jpeg

26-600

LTG : )

If it’s the same as hobbit drops I have a spare. 23-3015-00

Like the old Williams 26-600 will work?

Worked on Fishtales. Same thing.

LTG : )

Thanks!

looks like:

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-sm1-26-600-coil-no-diode.html

I have to go back and check I thought the one on WOZ had a hole in the middle

Hi Everyone, new to the group and maybe one for the Australians in the group but I have an ECLE Rescue Edition and was wondering if anyone new much about the history of these machines. I understand they were specifically made to help the local market when a local distributor did the wrong thing but do they differ in any way to a normal ECLE? How many of them are there out in the market place? Thanks in advance.

I have one (#2). They are basically the same as a normal ECLE - green armour, same topper, wooden apron etc but they have a decal instead of the direct printed cabinet.

5.0 V boards for the most part.

Thanks for that.

Finally own this game again after selling my early delivery ECLE after owning it one or two months. Day and night difference. Early game code was really bad, callouts horrible and constant led failures made it unplayable.

I have to say JJP finally came through on this game. I am finding it quite enjoyable now.

Wow! I just finished upgrading to the 2.0 light kit and.... it's working!!

Scary process doing it for the first time but got it done.

Very satisfying to turn on the game and to see all that effort pay off.

After finally having time to check out the WoZ I picked up I'm running into major issues I could use a hand with. When I first powered the machine on I tripped the breaker for the circuit it was connected to. Nothing else of substance was on that circuit, so this seemed like a poor start.

I started unplugging the 120V connectors and found that without the main display connected the machine would start up. When I connected the main display to 120V wall power on it's own it was totally fine.

Now, even without the display connected I'm not getting any playfield lights or switches turning on. The CPU and audio stuff seems to be booting up, and the main fan runs along with the back box lights. This led me to check out the transformer and I'm only getting about 60% of the voltage the manual says I should get (48V on the red wires for example when it should be 70V).

I've tried re-seating any connection I can get my hands on, without any success. My thought right now is that the display was a red herring and that maybe my main transformer is totally screwed? Has anyone seen this kind of issue before? I haven't had much luck searching for it online.

Thanks,
Ryan

Way to go! It's a pretty fun project isn't it?

Looking back it wasn't that difficult but still i wish the procedures had a few more pics... some things were not that obvious at first

I didn’t find it too bad, instructions were pretty thorough. More pictures would not hurt, you’re right.

Anyone have a spare 2.0 kit or one they may not use in the next few months prior to new kits shipping? I took another look and I am missing a few random light boards. I would much rather do the job once and get the lighting sorted out rather than installing second hand boards and still needing to upgrade again later. Thanks

Game setup for 220v?

The transformer input seems wired correctly for 120V.

Can someone tell me if 49V is actually the correct transformer secondary voltage across the red wires or the blue wires? The manual lists it as 49V in some places and 70V in other places....EDIT "70V" in the manual refers to DC right? 49V is RMS AC?

Does anyone know where I can find the year the machine was built? I’m not at home and need to ask the wife to take a picture of it thanks

White sticker with black printing, either on the rear of the lower cabinet or the inside left cabinet wall next to the tilt mechanism

My WOZ has been acting up for a week in a weird way
In short the game suddenly feels overpowered, the ball flies everywhere, there's a big métal noise of the ball hitting the VUK wire forms when it comes out.
I also get a lot of air balls, like when hitting the magic wand target the ball flies up on the munchkin playfield.

I could reduce the power of all the coils one by one but I'm worried there's something else going on.

Any clues ?

The power to my game varies over the course of the year as people start using AC in the summer and turn it off in the fall. I definitely notice the difference with WOZ and DI which for me seems to be more sensitive to such variations than my other pins. I usually adjust the power to the coils accordingly to account for this.

What Pinballomatic said. Here is a photo of the sticker on my game on the back of the lower cabinet to give you a visual.

Gord

WOZ_SN (resized).JPG

Darn that's a lot of coils to change one after the next one.

Do you think a power conditioner would do the trick ?

Perhaps he meant the software power setting.

I know, what I meant to say is it's a lot of settings to change one by one, then change them again when the power goes lower.

My problem is it's not just the bats that shoot too strong it's literally every coil.

Typically I do the bottom flippers. Sometimes the VUKs. It just depends on how it is playing. It takes two minutes and I only do it 2-3 times a year.

Any changes to how / where you have your game plugged in? Have you or anyone else added or removed other devices that may have been plugged in / in use on the same circuit, keeping in mind that could be in different rooms? If you have any power strips, etc. start by removing those and plugging the game directly into the wall.

Root cause of my problems with WoZ was an arc fault breaker on the circuit it was plugged into that didn't seem to like this pin. Powering up WoZ's large transformer must look like an arc to that breaker and it trips. None of my other games trip the circuit, but I bet they were close. For now I'm running it on an extension cord down the hall to an outlet with a normal breaker, but I'll be swapping out my arc fault breaker for a normal one shortly.

This type of issue may become more common as more houses are equipped with arc fault protection breakers.

You can try a variac to remove surges and stabilize the game.

I use these. Good up to 10A(1200 watts). I use 1 for every 2 games and a sub. I could probably put 3 games on 1.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00009RA60/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Thanks. A voltage regulator on a WoZ without the 2.0 light kit seems like a wise investment.