Not that I know of.

On your phone or computer do you see WiFi channel from your router ? If so I'd check router settings.

You know your USB cable in game works. When you plug in the WiFi dongle, it should list any WiFi it detects. Then chose the one you want and then do the password stuff.

LTG : )

You can’t install drivers. You have to use one of the supported wifi dongles.

Did you buy one of the tested / "supported" WiFi adaptors?

This is what I've been using :

https://www.microcenter.com/product/604932/tp-link-archer-t2u-nano-ac600-nano-wireless-usb-adapter

LTG : )

JJP new pinballwizard.com has playfield protectors for WOZ on sale for $29.00

Anyone ever use?

https://pinballwizard.com/products/wizard-of-oz-playfield-protector

I bought one from JJP thinking it was the Munchkin pf edge protector. Ugggh. It's a full plastic pf protector. You can only install by completely stripping the pf. It's the same type as the ones sold here:
https://www.playfield-protectors.com/

It's still in the box I don't think I will ever install it.

Has anyone had issues with the guard stand up target not going all the way down after being hit?

7C4C1F93-75FC-44B5-822D-0193E10B8CF0 (resized).jpeg

Looks like a decal has been put on it. ( not original black drop target )

Check below the playfield. See if it's binding on anything, broken spring. Assembled wrong with the switch.

Here are pictures to compare yours to.

LTG : )

IMG_0436 (resized).JPG

IMG_0437 (resized).JPG

Ok great thank u I will take a closer look!
It’s weird when I had it flipped up and tested it it was going up and all the way down no problem. May have to look at different angles.
So it’s meant to be a blank target then no decal?

Yes. But decal is okay if it isn't coming off and causing this.

Under the playfield, you have a couple connectors and four screws. Easy to remove and check if it needs cleaning or anything. If it goes up and down smoothly then check that it is going up and down in the slot in the playfield good. May be bent forward or back and binding on the playfield hole.

LTG : )

My (E) Rescue target is shot. Does anybody have a link to the replacement standup target for that? I punch in the number (19-9000-03) at Marco and Pinball Life, but no dice. Also...I'm guessing I'd have to replace the target decal as well?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-oblong-stand-up-targets.html Get orange.

My game doesn't have decals, so if yours is an aftermarket one or a JJP one. Yes, you'll have to figure out what and find it.

LTG : )

Thanks, Lloyd! You're right...the decals were aftermarket and it was just an orange target. I really appreciate your help...again!

Did the plastic on the standup break? I'm trying to figure out how a basic standup target like that could fail.

I put on the lollypop decals from JJP on my original multi-colored targets.

They are quite durable and have lasted forever.

Personally I liked the opaque colors better, but Pinballgoddess loves the swirly candy look.

It was wonky for a while, registering as always open. Just tapping on it would get it to work again, but now it's completely failed. The wiring underneath and all connections seem to be fine, so I can only assume it's the switch itself that has somehow gone bad. But yeah...I definitely see what you're saying.

So lower it from the playfield, clean and adjust. Just two leaf blades that when shorted together register the switch closure.

Power off. You could remove the plastic and maybe do this from above without removing the castle playfield.

LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd. Did the upgrade and the menu comes up to connect to wifi, but with the usb dongle plugged in is still says "cannot detect wifi network". I believe you need to install the driver software for the dongle before it will work. It's this installation I'm not sure how to do.

I bought a wifi dongle locally. Will have to get one from Amazon US as the recommended one instead. Is it OK to use a USB hub so we can have wifi and bluetooth?

Yes. I used this one : https://www.microcenter.com/product/485912/inland-4-port-usb-31-(gen-1-type-a)-hub---black

I've never heard of that. Or run into it.

On Hobbit, Willy Wonka, and Wizard of Oz, I just plugged it in and it worked.

You sure it isn't your WiFi or settings on your router locking you out ?

LTG : )

I tested it on my desktop and it automatically came up with the driver installation request when I plugged it in. It then connects to my home wifi without issues. Doesn't come up with that on WOZ of course, and if I start the game with it in it tries to boot off it instead on startup. Not to worry, I'll try the Amazon one when it arrives (Only $14.99, plus $11.99 shipping sadly).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PB1X4CN

I believe you.

I just don't know what to do about it.

LTG : )

I doubt your desktop is running Linux though and it handles drivers a lot differenly than Windows does. I would just say that if you needed to install a driver KJ and team would have almost certainly included that in the instructions.

Hey gang, I'm about to install the 2.0 lightkit.
The instructions on the jjp website are from 2019. I believe their are a few updates to it, does anybody have a list?
Thanks

Vireland posted this some time ago.

LTG : )

These are pretty raw, I didn't clean them up, but the information is all there. Note the L-bracket and metric screw size you'll need to secure the new switching power supply to the cabinet that aren't included...

General notes:
The part number for the single plug black wires is wrong on the wires. It says 19-3096-09, but the diagram from the current manual (page E-22/23) identifies the short black leads as 19-3096-08. Either the manual or the part needs to be changed so they agree

Somehow I came up short on 1/2" and 3/4" screws by a few. I didn't count at the beginning, so I'm not sure if the amount provided isn't enough, or if my kit just didn't have enough screws in the bags.

Some of the leads are too short for the lighting plugs. I had to move boards at the end of the instructions that I installed near the beginning, and even then a few BARELY had enough wire and too much tension. Lights 3 and 12 specifically. Probably should be made 2" longer at least.

Might want to mention at the beginning that the customer needs to buy a couple small L brackets and two 4-M4 screws plus 2 pan head wood screws for the new switching supply they'll be installing as they're not included in the kit.

Step 6.The warning “DO NOT remove all the large boards at once – if you do...” needs to be at the BEGINNING of the FIRST paragraph after the 6>. Putting it on the second paragraph is too late for awesome people like me. Fortunately (?) I’ve spent so much time with these boards, I can see the placement in my head with my eyes closed, so it was no biggie, but for less confident users, this could be annoying/problematic the way it is now.

Also, on the 2nd paragraph of step 6, you’re asking to use #4 ½” SMS, but the screws are labeled with the PART NUMBER not the SIZE on the bags. So the screws should have the part number listed next to the size (“#4 ½” SMS [82-000004-08]” for example) in the instructions and/or the bags of screws should have the size of the screws printed on them along with the part number.

For step 7, it's a similar suggestion to step 6 beginning to make the warning more clear about removing and replacing one by one in order instead of talking about how to take them all out in order one by one in order so you don't miss one. It becomes more clear after the 2nd paragraph of 7>, but some of that information could be moved to the beginning of 7>.

The second paragraph of step 7 talks about installing single RGB GI board 15-0051-00. This doesn't exist. What's in the kit is part number 15-004151-04, which is a strip of 8 boards you need to snap off into individual boards. This isn't covered in the instructions at all. The packing slip also has the part number listed as 15-004151-04. The only place where it's called 15-0051-00 is on step 7. Also the packing slip says there are 24, when in reality there are 3 strips of 8 you have to break off into 24 pieces, so that's not quite right, either.

Also, on Step 7 it should say something about board 11 that will be dealt with later. Something like "(Calm your titties, board 11 will be replaced in Step 14)"

Step 9 in the instructions needs quite a few changes
The part number on the instructions are 15-0028-00. The part number of the parts in the box are 15-004128-04. Also, the parts in the box need to be snapped apart, which is not discussed in the instructions.
Also:
1- The part number for the 4-40 1/4" screws (80-002104-04) should be added to the instructions, and the screw size should be added to the part bag label for better matching.
2- The part number for the insulating paper (70-009010-00) should be added to the instructions and maybe add "insulator" to the parts bag label for better matching.
3- The part number for the new mounting bracket for the rollovers (10-000155-00) should be added to the instructions and maybe add "rollover bracket" to the parts bag label for better matching.

Step 10
Part number 15-0028-00 is wrong. It should be 15-00428-04. #4 1/2" screws should have part number noted (82-000004-08).

Step 11
Part number 15-0028-00 is wrong. It should be 15-00428-04. #4 1/2" screws should have part number noted (82-000004-08).

Step 12
Terminology is wrong here. It says to use Single GI RGB LED boards, but it's actually talking about using 15-00428-04 RGB LED boards in the just- made GI RGB rollover brackets.

Step 14
Part number 15-0028-00 is wrong. It should be 15-00428-04. #4 1/2" screws should have part number noted (82-000004-08).

Step 15
The part number for the PCB mounting bracket should be noted next to its name in the instructions (10-005035-00)

STEP 18
For Step 18, it's actually better to leave the playfield UP initially until J802 is disconnected because it's at the front of the PCB box, toward the coin door. Once the cable is disconnected and slipped out of the zip ties, THEN lay the playfield down to pull the cord out the back of the PCB box. Also, a copy of the printed diagram from the manual showing WHERE J802 IS would be very helpful, it's kind of hidden by a wad of cables and not easy to find visually. I've attached a screen grab to include with the update.

Also, the instructions say to pull J800, but no word about JUSB next to that, which is also a mini-USB connector. On the Computer CPU board end, both these are wired to the same plug. NOTE: YOU ONLY PULL ONE OF THEM - the J800, even if they're physically connected on the computer board end like they are on early ECLEs.

(The problem is both the JUSB and J800 are the same cable, split into two cables at the header block on the PC motherboard. So the instructions to remove just the J800 is wrong because the best you can do if you have to keep JUSB is to just disconnect J800 since they’re physically the same cable. If you have this configuration, you leave it plugged in on the computer header end and just unplug J800 usb on the other end, leaving the other plugged in.)

STEP 19
Where is the Mini-b end of the 6ft USB cable you connect to the back of the CPU board supposed to be plugged in? J800? JUSB? It doesn't say. Also, the 6ft USB 2.0 to Mini-b cable needs the part number listed (19-003100-06).

Thanks LTG and Vireland!

When will 2.0 lighting kits be available again?

Just installed the recommended dongle from Amazon and worked fine. Drivers must be pre-installed as it comes with a driver CD but recognised straight away. Now registered with Scorebit. Very cool. Hope they do the same for POTC soon!

Howdy-

I wish to buy these. Does anybody have them?

1. Single LED PCB, 5V, for LED 15. See attachment for the direction of the bracket.
Looks like SKU: S51-000000-00 http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/General-Illumination-board-5-Volt-.html

2. 10" RGB LED cable that goes between 17 & 18.
P/N 19-3031-10 4583

Thank you,
-Jason

PS: the story:
Half the PF lights were out.
Investigation revealed that 15 was showing only red, 16 was working fine, & 17 plus all downstream from 17 were off.
Swapped in a replacement (w/ the wrong bracket angle) for 15. 15 now good.
Noticed that the 17->18 cable's ground wire was broken at the crimp on the 18 end. Repaired pretty well (dig out cable strands, solder, heat shrink, hot glue).
No change.
Replaced 17.
All good.
So, in summary, 15 went partially bad, 17 went bad, & the 17->18 cable all went bad (at the same time?)

PXL_20210727_042703762 (resized).jpgPXL_20210727_043633238 (resized).jpgPXL_20210727_043519839 (resized).jpg

The brackets can be peeled of and re-applied with 3M gray VHB tape.

The boards are all the same, just swap out the brackets if you have spare boards.

JJP used to sell a 5 pack.

Wish I knew of a place to get cables. Have at least one out and would like 2-3 just in case needed in future.

You might look for someone who recently converted to 2.0 and buy a whole set. If you’re keeping the earlier system, more boards will fail in time so having spares is a good thing. Also not sure how many people want to break up a set by selling individual boards. Going rate for a full set is about $300 from someone who swapped. Much cheaper than getting them from JJP.

I'll be doing a 2.0 board swap soon. The only board currently not working is the "fish" board.
Let me know if any are interested in acquiring my swapped out boards...

(Agreed on the boards being the same. I currently have an opposite-handed board in place now as a stand-in.)

The bracket is sandwiched between 2 PCBs, w/ tape above & below it. Do you twist it out of position to break both bonds simultaneously? I wanted to check before brute-forcing it.

I guess I could practice on my 2 broken ones before trying to adjust the new one!

Thanks,
-Jason

Go slow. Don't rip the components off the board.

It will slowly release.

Practice makes perfect.

Wow, I don't know how just pulling slowly would have worked. It was stuck fast, & that tape streeeeetches!

My solution was to go in w/ a wide & rectangular-tipped X-Acto blade, bias it towards the bracket, so that it would separate the bracket from the tape (w/out gouging the PCB).
Even with that, it was a struggle to extricate the bracket.
Once removed, there was plenty of remaining sticky tape all around, so that I simply slid the bracket into its new position & it stuck fast. (That 3M tape that you mentioned costs $100+ on McMaster for a roll!)

Plus, as installed, the bracket is clamping the board's LED against the light pipe, so it won't go anywhere.

All that effort for light 15, which is under the crystal ball & hardly shows worth a darn anyway b/c the big opaque crystal ball bracket covers it up!

Back to 100% operation!

Thanks,
-Jason

The VHB tape is availble a home depot in small quantities.

Just grabbed a WOZ standard "project" machine. I say project because it is partially disassembled and missing a few parts. I haven't done an exhaustive list of what all is missing and that may take a good while. For now though, I know the CPU/computer is not present along with the security dongle. I emailed JJP support about getting one of those. Can anyone provide some info on sourcing a new PC? I am very familiar with building/repairing PC's. Is there a specific chipset required? I saw H61 which is pretty old at this point. Can I grab something more modern and load that up? I would love to put in a faster SSD or even NVMe drive if possible.

Factory already uses an SSD and an NVMe wouldn't really boost much. The only time you have to wait for loading is when turning the game on and it's pretty fast.

I don't know about using a newer mobo, but I do know you'll need to get the power supply from JJP if it's not in your cabinet. Hopefully it is since it's pricey. It's just a standard ATX PSU but it has a fully customized wiring harness. I tried replacing it with a quieter and more robust modular one but it was a non-starter.

Compatibility is going to be king here, you don't need to juice up the PC to improve loading speeds or frame rates or anything like that. And unfortunately older parts tend to be pricier too.

I will check out the PSU situation tonight then for sure. I figure at least a modern SSD will be faster than what was around 8 years ago, but at NVMe probably isn't necessary.

For the CPU/motherboard any insight into what some later models used would be cool for sure. I can always hop on ebay and grab an older H61/i5 or whatever, but newer would be better for lifecycle sake.

Will the game boot at all without the security dongle?

The PC will boot just fine but it wont load the game code.

It looks like I do have both power supplies. The PC board is simply missing along with the USB security dongle. JP service got back to me. 299 for a motherboard/CPU/RAM combo. That is not that bad, but may be able to be sourced elsewhere for a bit less. The security dongle he said they have to check with the factory about them. So hopefully it can be replaced for a reasonable cost. I also asked that they add me to the notification list for the 2.0 light board kit.

Can the service menu be accessed without the dongle? Thinking through if I could source the PC and possibly test/troubleshoot in the even it takes a bit to source the dongle.

Doubtful since the service menu is part of the game code.

No.

The Dongle is mandatory. I holds the number for the game and the security for the proprietary software.
If you can prove the game number, serial number and game version, getting a replacement Dongle should not be a problem.

Generally they want the old one back before you can get a new one. But in your case it poses a unique problem.

They dont want any loose code in the wild.

Several replacement dongles have been issued due to failure or what-not.

This actually worries me. If dongles go bad, what happens in the future if JJP isn’t around to replace them? Hopefully they will be, but could a third party provide replacements if not?

No need to worry, someone will figure out how to copy them and make new chips if it becomes necessary.

Is that possible? I assume the encryption is strong.

Everything can be copied.

What I'm saying is... Don't worry about it.

What is your worry gonna achieve?

In the event that JJP shuts down, they could release the code officially - or an employee could dump it on the internet unofficially.

Indeed any number of things could happen that would end with the result that you can still buy the security dongles or bypass them somehow. Do I know exactly which one will happen? No. But history shows that it will indeed happen. Check out K's Arcade website and see all the things you can buy for Williams and Bally machines that would have been impossible years ago.

If there is a demand, it will be met. Don't worry bro.

I wouldn't worry about it, the arcade industry used dongles in the 2000s when they moved to PC based mother boards and all of them have been cracked or bypassed after their makers dropped support

Ok. I’m not terribly worried. It just occasionally passes through my mind.

When I was a kid and bought The Legend of Zelda cartridge for the NES, I was upset that it only came with a 5 year battery to hold your saves. My father just laughed at me.

Good to know.